Watches Of A Jihadist-Turned World Leader

The Evolution Of A Rebel Leader Turned Syrian President, Told Through His Watches - Tactical Watch, Seiko, Omega, & Patek Philippe

At Watches of Espionage, we explore national security and current events through the lens of timepieces. Today we take a close look at the watches of Abu Mohammad al-Jolani, the former Al-Qaeda in Iraq fighter who led the movement to overthrow the Syrian regime, now serving as President of Syria. As he ascended to power, al-Jolani’s watches changed to match his persona, communicating a message to his supporters and the international community. In intelligence and national security, a watch is a tool. In this case, al-Jolani’s watch serves as a tool to telegraph a persona.

When Syria’s Bashar al-Assad was overthrown at the beginning of December 2024, ending some five decades of rule by the Assad regime, I was—along with the rest of the world—genuinely surprised by the speed with which the events transpired. With extensive experience living, working, and traveling throughout the Middle East, including to Syria, I would have expected the Assad family to maintain its totalitarian stranglehold over its 25 million citizens all but indefinitely. So how could this have happened? And where do watches fit into the picture?

Al-Jolani made the change from a seemingly-generic quartz watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman.

At the center of the conversation was one man: the “rebel leader” then called Abu Mohammed al-Jolani, who led the effort to overthrow Assad. Despite a challenging background, ties to the Islamic State and al-Qaeda, and a stint in Iraq’s infamous Camp Bucca internment facility, al-Jolani has demonstrated an impressive grasp on the importance of communication and influence since becoming Syria’s new head of state. While his attire was perhaps the first to change—from olive drab fatigues to a business suit—for a trained eye, nowhere was this shift from Jihadist to political leader more apparent than with al-Jolani’s watches.

For al-Jolani, who has since dropped his nom de guerre in favor of his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, his choice of watches symbolizes an intriguing step-by-step ascent from a scrappy rebel leader, to a budding diplomat, and eventually, to a fully fledged statesman complete with a Patek Philippe, all taking place in record time. Remember, a watch is never just a watch.

Unknown Tactical Watch

A photograph from the first days of al-Sharaa’s rule showing his mysterious black tool watch.

As the first images of a triumphant al-Sharaa in Damascus hit the media on 08 December 2024, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: a thick beard and olive drab fatigues. In our earliest discussion of the events, we incorrectly identified the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist as a black plastic Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but as more photos of the events have surfaced, it would appear the watch is some kind of all-black, likely quartz analog watch with an integrated rubber strap. Despite our best efforts, we have yet to identify the watch. If anyone out there knows, we’ll be sure to update this article.

Another angle shows the watch. Does anyone have any idea about this one?

In any case, the tactical-looking watch was in line with al-Sharaa’s messaging at the time, portraying himself as the militant Jihadist leader commanding troops on the road to Damascus. And while that image served al-Sharaa’s needs, it would appear the new Syrian leader had a long-term plan in mind with regards to his look, quickly making the swap to business suits and a more elegant timepiece. It happened so quickly, it would appear significant forethought went into al-Sharaa’s appearance and watches.

Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 - $150

al-Sharaa wearing his Seiko in the days following the overthrow of the Assad regime.

In the days immediately following the overthrow of the Assad regime, al-Sharaa began a campaign to court the media, inviting a series of politicians and delegates to Damascus for highly publicized displays of the “new Syria”. Along with some fresh threads, al-Sharaa upgraded the black tactical watch to a more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1.

The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 was Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice in his early days as Syria’s leader.

While it isn’t expensive by watch standards at around $150, the Seiko looked the part with a new, more business-like but still modest al-Sharaa and accompanied him on a series of high-profile meetings in his quest for international legitimacy. Seiko is an intriguing brand, serving as one of the world’s largest watchmakers while also balancing a passionate following among the military and watch enthusiasts with mainstream commercial success, including at least one Middle Eastern head of state.

We discussed al-Sharaa’s then two-piece watch collection in our SITREP back in December, thinking that at least the watch story had run its course. As it turns out, al-Sharaa is more of a watch guy than we ever imagined and has significantly leveled up his timepiece game in recent weeks, starting with a Swiss luxury icon from one of the biggest names in the business.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900

An Omega Seamaster Diver 300 on al-Sharaa’s wrist as he met with a Qatari delegation.

On 23 December, al-Sharaa stepped up his game as he met with a delegation from the Qatari Foreign Ministry. Given away by its distinctive early 90s bracelet design and helium escape valve, the watch was an Omega Seamaster Diver 300 in the more seldom-seen grey dial/navy blue bezel configuration. Often associated with James Bond for its predecessor's antics on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in 1995’s GoldenEye, the Seamaster Professional has become one of the single most popular luxury dive watches in the world, serving as an entry-point to luxury watchmaking for many, including al-Sharaa.

The Seamaster appeared to be a mainstay on the al-Sharaa’s wrist for weeks to follow, and we might have once again called our conversation on the leader’s watches complete. After all, the Seamaster hits a nice sweet spot of not feeling overly expensive or luxurious while still representing a big jump above a Seiko. Also favored by former US President Joe Biden, the Seamaster is not cheap, but a world leader likely won’t be accused of corruption or anything else interesting simply for wearing an Omega, which is where our next and (maybe) final watch comes into play.

Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G - $81,610

Moving from a $150 Seiko to an Omega with a retail price of around $6k is a leap, sure, but nothing compared to al-Sharaa’s next move. Last week, al-Sharaa, who is now officially the “Interim President” of Syria, visited Saudi Arabia to meet with Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), the Kingdom’s de facto ruler, in Riyadh. The visit was in keeping with al-Sharaa’s recent MO, shaking hands in front of the camera with as many prominent leaders in the region as possible in an attempt to earn favor for Syria’s new political direction.

What was out of place was the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist, a white gold Patek Philippe 5930G. The watch, which offers “world time” functionality as well as a chronograph, goes for over $80k new and closer to $50k on the secondary market, a significant leap from a Seamaster to say the least. Where the Patek came from is anyone’s guess, but the fact that it was first spotted in Saudi does offer clues depending on your level of pessimism.

We have discussed the role of watches in diplomacy and the Middle East and the Saudis in particular are known for cementing relationships with the gift of watches. We assess with medium confidence that this watch could have been a gift from MBS or another Saudi official.

Regardless, the Patek Philippe stands in stark contrast to the black tactical watch the rebel leader wore just two months prior and marks a clear evolution to a leader in the Middle East.

Final Thoughts

If you made a movie about a fictitious rebel leader becoming the legitimate president of a Middle Eastern country, I’m not sure you could have cast the watches any better, representing a near-perfect four-watch staircase demonstrating al-Sharaa’s rise from Jihadi fighter to president. Starting with a humble black “tactical” watch fit for battle fatigues, then swapping for an elegant Seiko to pair with political business attire, to one of the biggest names in luxury watches in the Omega Seamaster, and finally a complicated Patek Philippe, one of the most storied (and expensive) names in watchmaking, al-Sharaa has proven once again that there is more to every watch than meets the eye.

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