At Watches of Espionage, we don’t generally do watch reviews. The fact is that other platforms are better suited for this type of content. We will never become yet another outlet copying and pasting watch specifications and marketing language, but certain brands and models feel closer to our community than others and deserve a closer look. We’re big fans of the Tornek-Rayville/Mk II, so we wanted to shed some light on Mk II’s newest release, the Fulcrum 39. As always, nothing you see here is sponsored. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) We strongly believe in the Use Your Tools ethos, meaning that if we’re going to discuss a particular watch, we’ll be using it for its intended purpose. With that in mind, Ben, our resident expert in the maritime environment who previously put the Marathon GSAR collection to the test, is back with another diving review of Mk II’s latest release. We see this becoming a series and welcome your feedback. Is A $1,000 Watch From An American Microbrand A Worthy Successor To The Legendary Rolex Mil-Sub? By Benjamin Lowry  At around 70 feet deep somewhere off the coast of Key Largo, Florida, the colors of the coral reef are muted, presenting a blue-grey seascape that feels like a dated photograph. With modern diving equipment, a decent wetsuit, and a fancy diving computer on my right wrist, I am at ease in the 75-degree water. To quote Kincade (and Moneypenny) in Skyfall, “Sometimes the old ways are the best”, and I have elected to wear a leaky old-school oval mask and an analog dive watch for the occasion. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) Peering down at the new Fulcrum 39 from Mk II on my left wrist, I am reminded of the delta between the grizzled Royal Navy Clearance Divers of old—whose issued Rolex Mil-Subs served as the inspiration for the modern Fulcrum 39—and myself, a washed-up commercial diver turned watch writer currently puttering around a tropical reef. That important distinction aside, the best way to get to know a dive watch is to let it do its thing. In this Dispatch, I dive with the Fulcrum 39 in an attempt to unpack what it means to honor the legacy of a legend with a compelling modern watch capable of standing alone. The Rolex Mil-Sub Mo Crang, a Royal Navy Clearance Diver, wearing a Rolex Mil-Sub on its issued nylon strap. (Photo Credit: Tony Groom) To understand the Fulcrum 39, we’ll need at least a basic grasp of the watch that inspired its creation, the Rolex Military Submariner or Mil-Sub. While the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Tudor “Snowflake” Submariners used by the Marine Nationale and Omega’s British military-issued Seamaster 300 are all important players in the arena of military dive watches, many would argue that the Mil-Sub takes the undersea cake. Issued in as few as 1,200 examples, the British Military’s special version of the Rolex Submariner provides an almost perfect combination of enduring design, provenance, and utility. In November 2024, a Rolex Mil-Sub hammered for $240k at Christie’s, well beyond the means of most tool watch users. (Photo Credit: Christie’s) As is often the case with cool old things, collectors are well aware. The few surviving Mil-Subs are among the most valuable military watches today, with at least one example from 1974 hammering for $240k at Christie’s as recently as November of last year. Even if you have the money, it would be hard to argue that a vintage Mil-Sub is a great candidate for a modern Use Your Tools lifestyle. Sure, you could get a new Rolex Submariner, but you’re still talking about ten grand, and the watch today feels miles apart from its military-specific predecessor. So, if you appreciate the core design elements and utilitarian ethos of the Mil-Sub but want something reliable, modern, and (a lot) more attainable, what else is out there? Enter Mk II. What Is Mk II? There is a lot more to the Fulcrum 39 than an homage. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Watch microbrands these days are a dime a dozen. To be clear, there are great microbrands I would argue are at the beating heart of the enthusiast community. But for every one of those, there are a thousand Kickstarter campaigns out there spewing $500 to $1500 watches that, for one reason or another, simply don’t have the sauce. Mk II, which was founded by Bill Yao back in 2002, is one of the OG microbrands and is replete with sauce. Though its beginnings were humble, mostly selling aftermarket parts for modifying Seikos, Mk II’s ethos quickly came together. It’s all in the name. “Mk” in military parlance means something like model, edition, or variant. So Mk II—which is pronounced “Mark Two”—denotes the second version or a reimagining of an existing piece of equipment. Are Mk II’s watches homages? By definition, yes, but there is more to the story here than a cheap San Martin Rolex knockoff on Amazon. The goal with a Mk II is never to fool your buddies into thinking you picked up a $250k auction piece, but rather to take some of history’s great tool watches—which are typically well out of reach anyway—and reimagine them with updated materials, manufacturing standards, and subtle aesthetic changes to create something new, aware of its past yet distinct. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) For the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Mk II has the Stingray. For the Benrus Type I, the Paradive. For the Omega Seamaster 300, the Project 300. And, for the Mil-Sub, Mk II unveiled the original 42mm Fulcrum back in 2013. Over the past couple of years, Yao’s spin-off brand, Tornek-Rayville, has captured much of the limelight with its TR-660, but recently, Mk II has circled back to the Fulcrum with a new 39mm variant aptly named the Fulcrum 39. The watch is intended as a modern American Mil-Sub, but how does it stack up? The Fulcrum 39 - A Modern American Mil-Sub? Put simply, for just under $1,000, the Fulcrum offers a lot to like. Measuring 39mm across and 14.1mm tall, including the domed sapphire crystal, the Fulcrum wears more or less like an old Tudor or Rolex Submariner, which is a good thing. The watch is also available on either rubber or nylon straps as well as the option of a stainless steel bracelet with screwed links and a NodeX clasp with a slick integrated micro-adjustment system. The clasp is cool but, unfortunately, doesn’t offer enough length to get over most diving suits. It’s probably not an issue for most, but I ain’t most. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) The matte black dial has printed indices coated with Super-LumiNova BGW9 that glows blue and relatively well. The overall format combines elements from a couple of different vintage Rolex Submariner dials, as well as the Mil-Sub’s signature sword hands, and is available with or without a date that falls into the 4:30 position if you go that route. The bezel is generally shaped like that of a vintage Rolex, rotating with solid action throughout its 120 clicks with edges that are so grippy they’re almost sharp. The crown is large at 7mm, signed, and screws down far enough to provide a lot of peace of mind, providing control of the non-date Miyota 90S5 on the inside. Both the case and bracelet are bead blasted, an effect that fits the utilitarian aesthetic this watch is after but won’t garner positive comments at your local watch meetup about the finishing. With the basics out of the way, let’s go diving. Diving With The Fulcrum 39 Despite the heavily domed crystal, underwater legibility with the Fulcrum was not an issue. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) Tumbling off the swim platform of our Florida Keys scuba boat, I kept half an eye on the Fulcrum as a watch nerd does. Before descending, I set the bezel to serve as an almost certainly unnecessary backup to my Garmin Mk3i diving computer. Though I was digging the bracelet, I had to swap over to a nylon strap to fit the watch over my 4/3mm wetsuit, opting for a Five Eye paired with a Submersible Wrist Compass. In the water, the contrast between the dial, indices, and handset made for impressive legibility, a factor aided by the use of anti-reflective material on the underside of the crystal that appears blue, a polarizing feature for some but not something I mind. The bezel was also easy to rotate, and I used it to time my three-minute safety stop at the tail end of the dive. Testing a dive watch in South Florida is not a rough life. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) As great dive watch designs often do, the Fulcrum faded into the background of my subconscious mind in the water. Everything worked as intended, and my dive time was determined at a glance without giving the watch itself a second thought. As I am sure someone will correctly point out in the comments, most modern divers don’t use analog dive watches. However, despite all of my modern equipment, the Mk II watch on my wrist was still a tool, as capable in 2025 as it would have been decades ago. Awkwardly climbing the ladder, I pondered the idea that most of the key elements of the Fulcrum’s design come from Rolex, not Mk II. But it is Mk II that has packaged the whole thing in a modern way that many can afford and appreciate, providing a legitimate inroad to an important design format without feeling like a copy. It’s a difficult balance but also an important conversation to have. Final Thoughts After dealing with the leaky old-school mask for one dive, it was time for something more modern. The Fulcrum didn’t seem to care what was thrown at it. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) This shouldn’t come as a shock, but despite its visual similarities, the Fulcrum 39 from Mk II is not a Rolex Mil-Sub. I would argue that it isn’t trying to be. The Fulcrum is instead a modern take on the codes established by the Mil-Sub, updated and upgraded to suit the needs of modern divers and military members. At least for me, the line between homage and copy is nuanced but has a lot to do with the level of respect and thought going into any new design meant to reference another existing watch.Rather than the end of the story, the OG Mil-Sub was the starting point in the Fulcrum 39’s design, before going through Bill Yao’s famously exacting process, with each element and aspect carefully weighed, measured, and distilled for maximum utility and an overall look that’s cleaner than your grandma’s kitchen. Still, the Fulcrum 39 isn’t perfect. The clasp doesn’t extend enough for many wetsuits, the finishing is just ok, the lume’s performance is good but not great, and some will take issue with the price point compared to the Japanese movement on the inside. Though, that last point is probably moot, as the initial run sold out in minutes. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) It’s not for everyone, but as I said, the Fulcrum 39 still offers a lot to like, truly feeling like what an “American Mil-Sub” might be if there were such a thing, with great strap and bracelet options, a near perfect fit for most, excellent attention to detail with things like alignment, and an ethos I can get behind. It’s not the thing, and it was never intended to be. It’s a second coming of the thing: a riff on an existing idea, carefully juxtaposed against what works and what people want today. In a sea of 1:1 “heritage-inspired” watches, the Fulcrum 39 balances old and new in a way I can get behind while also honoring the W.O.E. community in the process. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Diving With The Marathon Search and Rescue

The link between watches, the military, and espionage is nothing new. Long before the advent of inexpensive digital timekeeping, there was an era where warfighters utilized mechanical watches for their intended purpose because they were simply the best tools for the job. At W.O.E., we focus on honoring and celebrating the heritage of our community. To fully understand that heritage, you have to look back to the original end-users, the OGs that cemented the lore behind some of watchmaking’s biggest names. When it comes to scrubbing the archives for photographs showcasing important military watches, our friend Justin Couture AKA The Wristorian is among the best. A lot of us (myself included) aren’t going to spend hours combing through the US National Archives hoping for a great shot of a Seiko 6309, but that’s exactly what Justin does, and it pays off. In this Dispatch, we asked Justin to share some of his favorite watches “in action” on the wrists of servicemembers from military organizations the world over. It’s important to remember that long before Omega paid big bucks for K-Pop superstars to don Aqua Terras, hard men dived, dismantled bombs, and waged war with real watches on their wrists. Today, with Justin’s help, we celebrate the legends who were living the Use Your Tools ethos long before it was cool. Legendary Timepieces Photographed On The Wrists Of Military & SpecOps By Justin Couture Hamilton MIL-W-4637B & Breitling Chronomat - US Army It just wouldn’t be a proper Watches of Espionage Dispatch without a bit of sketchy Breitling content to kick it off. The Airborne Ranger, from the 2nd Battalion, 75th Infantry pictured here is sporting two timepieces along with an M-161A rifle. Photographed in 1981 near “Rosy Roads” Naval Station in Puerto Rico, this shot was captured during “Ocean Venture”, a naval exercise that involved 120,000 service personnel, 250 ships, and about 1,000 or more planes from 14 different countries. The smaller of the two watches appears to be a standard-issue Hamilton MIL-W-4637B. The other watch was trickier to identify but looks to be a quartz Breitling Chronomat reference 9108. The giveaways are the size, the case shape on the crown side, the bracelet, and the distinctive bezel. It’s a rare model to spot anywhere, let alone in this environment. The reason this operator is wearing two watches on one wrist is anyone’s guess. It could be for redundancy—the old “two is one and one is none” mentality. It would also have allowed him to track two different time zones without a GMT function. Benrus Type I – US Navy Here is a photograph of not one, but two Benrus Type Is in action in 1981. This famously sterile-dialed tool watch was never available for civilian purchase. It epitomizes the concept of “everything you need and nothing you don’t”. One of the most legendary military-only tool watch designs ever made, the Benrus Type I and later Type II were produced in response to a US Government specification during the Vietnam War and exclusively issued to special operations forces with a few select pieces also allegedly being provided to CIA Officers with completely sterilized casebacks. The four operators pictured here are being transported by helicopter to the ammunition ship USS Mount Hood (AE-29). There they will assist with search and rescue operations for a beached frigate called the RPS Datu Kalantiaw (PS-76). The frigate was a casualty of Typhoon Clara and ultimately 19 individuals were rescued from the wreckage, while 52 bodies were recovered. Rolex GMT Master 1675 – US Air Force The Rolex GMT Master is a watch that shows up often in archival military photos. I see them time and time again—a testament to both their status and durability. This image, taken in 1978, shows Astronaut Judy Resnick inflating a solar water still (a device that makes saltwater safe to drink) during 20-man life raft training on Biscayne Bay near Homestead Air Force Base (HAFB). This exercise was conducted by the Air Training Command Sea Survival School. The man on the right is seen wearing a Ref. 1675 Rolex GMT-Master. The hallmark bi-colored bezel can be made out just under his sleeve. Resnick lost her life in the Challenger disaster on January 28, 1986, but left an indelible mark in the history books as a pioneering female aviator and astronaut. Rolex Submariner 6536 - Royal New Zealand Air Force “Vanguard 18” was a joint military exercise that occurred in 1971 to promote effective cooperation between various armed forces. This image shows an RNZAF Deployment Commander greeting a Lieutenant Colonel from the Singaporean Air Force. The former, seen on the right, is wearing what appears to be a Rolex Submariner reference 6536. Interestingly, this was a transitional reference for Rolex and was only produced for a brief window in the mid-1950s. Given the date that this photo was taken in Tengah, Singapore the Submariner would have been around 15 years old at the time. Safe to say that, if we could zoom in even closer, the watch had probably earned a fair number of battle scars by this time. Rolex Explorer 5500 – US Navy Onboard the USS John Hancock (DD-981) in 1982, a Data Systems Technician re-enlists somewhere in the Mediterranean Sea. The Hancock was a Spruance-class destroyer commissioned in the late 1970s that operated out of Charleston, South Carolina until moving to Florida in 1987. The officers in the photo are part of the US Navy 6th Fleet whose purpose was to “...conduct the full range of Maritime Operations and Theater Security Cooperation missions, in concert with coalition, joint, interagency, and other parties, in order to advance security and stability in Europe and Africa.” The watch on the wrist of the officer on the right appears to be a Rolex Explorer. More specifically, given the size and the single line of text above the 6 o’clock numeral, it is likely a reference 5500 Explorer. This is a smaller and less common model in the range but built to the same standards of water resistance and robustness. In other words, a no-fluff tool fit for the job. Tudor Submariner 94110 “Snowflake” – US Air Force If you follow W.O.E. closely, you’re no stranger to the close historical bonds, which continue to this day, between Tudor and the military. This image, taken in 1985, shows a member of the US Air Force combat control team using a theodolite to track a weather balloon during the joint Honduran/US Exercise CABANAS '85. On his wrist is a Tudor Submariner Snowflake ref. 94110. What makes this particular shot so interesting is that he seems to have something tucked under the watch. While this may not be the most common place to store an object of importance, generally speaking, there are multiple examples I have seen in military photos. A good illustration of this is a wedding band kept on a nylon pull-through strap. As for what is underneath this Tudor, I suspect it could be a cap for the equipment. It’s tough to say but a unique storage solution, nevertheless. I would love to hear insight from the community in the comments. Seiko 6105 “Willard” – Royal New Zealand Air Force I’ve written on multiple occasions about the prevalence of Seiko divers throughout history: military, adventure, exploration, diving, etc. If you haven’t read Ben’s take on the ubiquity of the Seiko “turtle” among military personnel, check it out and you’ll see what I am talking about. Often accompanying these Seiko dive watches is a pronounced mustache. Turns out, a solid ‘stache is the perfect complement to a Seiko diver. As evidenced by this photo from 1983, there is an even smaller intersection where the ‘stache and the Seiko 6105 are accompanied by a bagpipe, and I think that’s worth celebrating. The gentleman in the photo, a member of the Royal New Zealand Air Force, is wearing the classic Seiko 6105, alternatively called the “Captain Willard” (a reference to its appearance in the film Apocalypse Now). Bonus points for the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk in the background. Seiko 7548 – US Army Now back to a few watches from the land of the rising sun. This image from October of 1984 shows US Air Force personnel catching giant freshwater prawns in the Philippines during a jungle survival training exercise. These prawns, known locally as ulang, can grow up to a foot long, making them a great source of protein in a survival scenario. On the wrist of the gentleman on the right is a red and blue “Pepsi” bezel Seiko 7548. This watch represented Seiko’s first foray into quartz-powered dive watches in 1978 and quickly grew a following among the armed forces. In fact, it became a real classic, not just among military personnel, but throughout virtually all active pursuits of the 1980’s. I’ve seen the same model on mountaineers, military generals, marine veterinarians, and everything in between, which speaks volumes to the capability and performance of the model. Seiko 6139-7010 – Japan Air Self-Defense Force Since I began collecting, I’ve been a major subscriber to the Cole Penning ton ethos to Always Read The Caseback. This image shows Japanese personnel assigned to the Rescue Coordination Center at the start of Operation Cope Angel, held off the coast of Okinawa, Japan in 1980. The man on the right is wearing a Seiko 6139-7010 chronograph. The 6139 line consisted of a multitude of different models, but the Arabic numerals of the aforementioned model make it ultra-legible and appropriate for military use. Though not many examples are known, this model was issued to the Japan Air Self-Defense Force (JASDF) and can be identified as an issued model by the cherry blossom and wings on the caseback. There is also a similar model with an anchor and wings given to the Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF). A decade ago this watch would have been entirely unknown as an issued piece, making this a great illustration of the knowledge that has yet to be gained among the military and watch enthusiast communities. Citizen Aqualand & Seiko H558 “Arnie” – Royal Australian Navy EOD and US Navy This 1991 image shows a member of a U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) team examining a device with members of a Royal Australian Navy EOD unit. At the time, they were working together to clear mines from Kuwait’s harbors following Operation Desert Storm. In terms of tool watches per image, this photo scores highly. If you look closely, you can spot both a Citizen Aqualand and a Seiko H558 “Arnie”—two classics, especially in the early 1990s when ana-digi dive watches found their footing. The former was known to be issued watch to Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers throughout the 80s and into the 90s. The latter, though not known to be issued, was favored by military personnel for its unique, shrouded design and water resistance. Both of these watches were the apex predators of analog/digital performance at the time and offered real functionality for military work. Doxa Professional SUB300T – Korean Military I don’t know about you—but if someone asked me what watch I would expect from Republic of Korea Special Forces operators in 1985—I probably would have said Seiko. Maybe Citizen? I would not have guessed Doxa. That’s the fun thing about these combing through the archives, though, you can unearth unexpected gems. Here is a shot of Special Reconnaissance ROK Marine members offloading from a C-130E Hercules aircraft at Yoju Airfield during Exercise TEAM SPIRIT in 1985 and on one of their wrists, you can see a Doxa SUB 300T. I initially thought it was a yellow-dialed “Divingstar”—but after stumbling across an example of a Korean military-issued Doxa Professional, that seems more likely. The SUB 300/300T was known to be favored by famed divers like Jacques Cousteau and has been issued by many international militaries, mostly for naval pursuits. CWC Chronograph – Royal Air Force This image, taken in 1980, displays a Royal Air Force pilot (left) as he helps a U.S. Air Force pilot don his flight suit during an RAF visit to the Spangdahlem Airbase in Germany. On his wrist is a CWC chronograph. These CWC models featured broad hands and clear markings, making them ideal for pilots. The dials bore the “broad arrow” symbol, a traditional indication used to designate British military property. I’ve long admired CWCs current and past models along with their extensive history of issuing models to various military branches. To me, seeing a watch like this—void of any marketing angle and being used exactly as intended—that’s what it’s all about. More Than Just Old Photos Sure, we’ve all heard of influencers, but I would argue you’re better off taking your watch-wearing advice from people stretching their watches beyond a wrist shot at the closest vegan cafe. If you want to understand the history and significance of tool watches, in particular, you must look to the original practitioners: the divers, pilots, special operators, and intelligence professionals, and see what worked for them. Chances are, even in a world dominated by the Apple Watch, it’ll work for you too. About The Author: Justin Couture is a Kansas City-based freelance writer and vintage watch enthusiast. In 2020, he founded @The_Wristorian, an Instagram page dedicated to providing historical context around military and civilian tool watches. Horological pursuits aside, Justin is a proud father, husband, and paramedic of 16 years.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air  

Seiko, Hamilton, Timex, & More - Our Top Picks For Starter Watches Of Espionage - One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What should I buy for my first watch?”

For CIA Leadership Analysts seeking to learn everything they can about a world leader, even something as seemingly insignificant as a wristwatch can play a role in assembling a complete profile to be shared with key decision-makers including the president. Whether it’s Kim Jong Un’s IWC, Putin’s insane luxury watch collection, or a Panerai favored by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, remember: A watch is never just a watch.   In the newest episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we discuss the watches worn by several prominent world leaders. Leaning into our experience from the world of intelligence, we provide examples of the types of insights that can be gleaned from the watches world leaders choose to wear on their wrists. Enjoy episode twelve of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Rolex, Omega, Timex, & Patek Philippe Worn By US Political Leaders  As Donald Trump is once again sworn in as the President of the United States, we offer an unbiased look at the watches worn by not only Trump but also members of his Cabinet and close advisors. The watches worn by US Presidents and political appointees are seldom accidental, and you can learn a lot about a person from their timepiece. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. With that in mind, we apply our Agency background and knowledge of timepieces to see what can be learned from the watches worn by the incoming administration, especially those worn by politicians with roles close to the world of intelligence and the military. A White House Breitling belonging to Cliff Sims, Trump’s pick for Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications Please keep in mind that this is simply an exercise and all in good fun. Watches of Espionage is an apolitical platform utilizing watches as the lens through which we view history and current events. If the new administration were on the other side of the aisle, we’d write the same article. If seeing a watch worn by a political figure you don’t agree with triggers you, we would recommend taking up a soothing activity like hiking, knitting, yoga, or maybe even an ice bath.  If you have additional vitriol that must be expressed, know that we very much enjoy reading your comments. Until then, let’s get started.  Donald Trump - President  During his first term, President Donald Trump notably wore several luxury timepieces including a Patek Philippe Ellipse, a Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1968, and a Rolex Day-Date Ref 18038. While he elected to not wear a watch for the inauguration yesterday as far as we could tell, we will keep our eyes peeled for which watches Trump favors during his second term. Of course, the elephant in the room is the collection of Trump-branded watches released last year, including a $100,000 tourbillon as well as more pedestrian models coming in around $500.  Despite the release with much fanfare, we have yet to spot President Trump (or anyone else) wearing any of the watches bearing the President’s name including such models as the Trump Crypto President 47, the Trump’s Smoky Blue, or the Trump Shield Warrior, a real shame if you ask us.  JD Vance - Vice President  The Vice President for Donald Trump’s second term in office is none other than JD Vance, a former United States Senator from Ohio and US Marine Corps veteran. While Vance is often photographed without a watch, when he was seen wearing a watch during the campaign, it was typically an Apple Watch. The Apple Watch serves as a sign of youth and tech savviness in keeping with Vance’s background in venture capital, but smartwatches also present serious counterintelligence risks. Will the VP continue to wear an Apple Watch in the White House? Or will the Secret Service and National Security Agency inform him of the CI-risks of smartwatches? Mike Waltz - National Security Advisor  Mike Waltz, Trump’s National Security Advisor, has quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). During his service, Waltz appears to have favored a straightforward Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but more recently, Waltz has been spotted wearing a couple of different Rolex models including a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710, and an older GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, likely reference 16710. This embodies the old-school adage that all a Special Forces man needs are a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex. Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.)  Kristi Noem - Secretary of Homeland Security Trump’s pick for the Secretary of Homeland Security is Kristi Noem, formerly known as the 33rd Governor of South Dakota. Again demonstrating the popularity of Rolex in US political circles, Noem is often photographed wearing what appears to be a 41mm DateJust. What’s more, like many members of the military and SpecOps, Noem has also been seen “inside-wristing” her Rollie for reasons we can also assume are tactical in nature. Noem inside-wristing her Rolex. Kash Patel - Director of the FBI  It almost shouldn’t have to be said at this point, but Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. Kash Patel, Trump’s pick to lead the FBI, worked as a prosecutor at DOJ and also served as the Chief of Staff to the Acting Secretary of Defense, Deputy Assistant to the President, Senior Director for CT at the NSC, and Principal Deputy to the Acting Director of DNI. He was also a DOJ liaison officer to Joint Special Operations Command (JSOC). Patel’s Breitling also appears to have the White House Seal or another insignia at three o’clock.  Patel appears to be a watch nerd with several watches in his collection.  With experience in many three-letter agencies relevant to our community, a Breitling was always going to be the right choice for Patel who has been wearing what looks to be a 46mm titanium Breitling Cockpit B50. We are told that at least one of the Breitlings is a Unit Watch from the previous Trump Administration, with the White House seal at the three o’clock position.  Pete Hegseth - Secretary of Defense  Pete Hegseth, a cohost of Fox and Friends and former Army National Guard officer, is Trump’s pick for Secretary of Defense. Intriguingly, other than older images from Hegseth’s military service in which he is seen wearing a Suunto Observer, the modern Hegseth does not appear to wear a watch. Instead, like many GWOT veterans, he appears to virtually always wear a memorial bracelet. Dating back to the Vietnam War when they were typically worn to honor soldiers captured or missing in action, today, these memorial bracelets typically display the name, rank, and date of the death of a fellow service member. Hegseth wearing a Suunto Observer during his National Guard days. Marco Rubio - Secretary of State The two may have gone toe to toe during Trump’s first run at the White House, with Rubio famously saying in 2016, “If he hadn’t inherited $200 million, you know where Donald Trump would be right now? Selling watches in Manhattan.” However, the pair appears to have worked it out, with Rubio slated to serve as Trump’s new Secretary of State. In most photographs, Rubio wears a blue Roman Numeral dial Rolex DateJust with a fluted bezel, likely a reference 126334 or something similar.  Christian Craighead - Personal Bodyguard to Donald Trump? Craighead wearing a CWC SBS, a watch designed for the Special Boat Service. According to press reporting, former Special Air Service (SAS) Warrant Officer, Christian Craighead was recently hired by Donald Trump as his personal bodyguard with a special emphasis on traveling ahead of the President’s public speaking engagements to locate potential sniper positions. Craighead burst into the public eye when he responded to a 2019 al-Shabaab attack in Nairobi, single-handedly killing five terrorists. Craig wearing a Seiko SNJ025 “Arnie”, a watch enthusiast favorite. Like many current and former members of UK Special Forces, Craighead is also something of a watch guy, having been seen wearing Rolex, Seiko, and Panerai watches in addition to releasing a collaboration with CWC, a brand that famously supplied the Special Boat Service (SBS). Hired for a role that is typically handled by the US Secret Service, it will be interesting to see how Craighead fits into the POTUS’ protection picture as a civilian. Elon Musk - Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency  While his role is technically non-governmental, it appears Elon Musk will have significant influence on the new White House through his appointment as the Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency or DOGE. It would seem that Musk’s interest in watches has waned in recent years, but he was once known for wearing a special SpaceX version of a TAG Heuer Carrera Cailbre 1887, an Omega Aqua Terra, and a Rolex DateJust way back in the day. One can only hope that when Trump’s licensed watches hit the wrists of those who have anxiously pre-ordered, there’s at least one extra lying around for the DOGE Czar.  Tulsi Gabbard - Director of National Intelligence (DNI) A former member of the US House of Representatives from Hawaii’s second district, Tulsi Gabbard was recently selected by Trump as the Director of National Intelligence. Gabbard also has a military background including service with the Hawaii National Guard including a deployment to Iraq and today serves in the Army Reserve as a lieutenant colonel. Despite her background, most photographs show Gabbard wearing what appears to be a no-name fashion watch.  John Ratcliffe - Director of CIA Trump’s pick to head the Agency as Director of CIA or DCIA is John Ratcliffe, a former Texas representative and the Director of National Intelligence from 2020 to 2021. Despite the link between espionage and watches celebrated on W.O.E., Ratcliffe appears to buck the trend as we cannot find a single photo of him wearing a watch. We believe that this makes Ratcliffe the first Director of CIA to NOT wear a watch, a significant moment in the evolution of Watches of Espionage. If anyone has further details, be sure to let us know. Meanwhile, Ratcliffe’s predecessor, Bill Burns, isn’t a watch nerd, either, he does at least wear a straightforward quartz Timex.  Cliff Sims - Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications The author of White House tell-all Team of Vipers: My 500 Extraordinary Days in the Trump White House, Cliff Sims has held several positions relating to US Intelligence and served as the Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications. With at least some interest in horology, Sims is also one of several owners we have encountered of a “White House Breitling”, a standard Breitling model (it seems like a few are available) customized with the White House Seal and a special engraved caseback. Of note, this Breitling was commissioned for the previous Trump Administration.  In Sims’ case, he hits the sketchy nail on the head with a White House Breitling Aerospace, always great to see.  Matthew Whitaker - US Ambassador to NATO  A former Attorney General, Matthew Whitaker is Trump’s choice for US Ambassador to the North Atlantic Treaty Organization or NATO. In addition to having played college football at the University of Iowa, Whitaker is at least a little bit of a watch guy, having been recently photographed wearing a two-tone Rolex Submariner, quite possibly a reference 126613. This is one of those watches that shows the breadth of the divide between the Submariner’s utilitarian diving roots and its current position on the wrist of a high-powered attorney/politician, but we still love to see it.  Sebastian Gorka - Counterterrorism Chief on the White House National Security Council A television presenter and former Deputy Assistant to the President during Trump’s first term, Sebastian Gorka, who was born in London to Hungarian parents, is the president’s pick for counterterrorism chief. What’s more, Gorka appears to be something of a watch guy. We’ve seen him wearing an Omega Planet Ocean, though it’s hard to discern the exact reference, as well as several more obscure watches on his Instagram. A Sinn 857 showcased in a 2020 post on Gorka’s Instagram. In a post from back in 2020, Gorka showed off his EDC which included a seldom-seen 857 UTC TESTAF. We’ve said this before, but if you’re rocking a Sinn, it isn’t because you picked it up at Macy’s. Watch guys are everywhere.  Final Thoughts One more shot of Cliff Sims’ White House Breitling Aerospace. Politics aside, it’s genuinely nice to see so many “real” watches worn inside the White House. Where digital tool watches (D.T.W.) and smartwatches including the ubiquitous Apple Watch have no doubt taken a sizable chunk of the top of the mechanical watch industry, certain serious individuals continue to value timepieces. Especially in political circles, nothing happens in a vacuum.  At W.O.E., we subscribe to the Use Your Tools ethos, and that includes watches utilized as tools of communication, as is so often the case in politics. In addition, there are a few players in the new White House that are clearly interested in watches, showing once again that watch guys are everywhere.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

Global watch crime is an enterprise worth an estimated 1.9 billion dollars in 2024. Almost daily, watches from Rolex, Richard Mille, and Patek Philippe are stolen—sometimes violently—from the wrist of a tourist or businessman. But what can you do about it? In the newest episode of W.O.E. TV, we’ll discuss this alarming trend and provide tips for how to travel with a luxury watch. While criminal watch gangs pose an undeniable risk, with a certain amount of forethought and some common sense, it’s possible to enjoy your watches around the world. Don’t be a soft target and always use your tools. Enjoy episode eleven of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

At W.O.E., we’ve commented on the watches worn by some of history’s most infamous individuals including US Presidents, Usama Bin Laden, and Muammar Gaddafi. In recent years, several watches with provenance calling back to these historical figures have been sold at auction where they garner massive results propelled at least in part by their historical significance. The recent sale of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser’s Rolex for $840,000 is just the latest example. Beyond challenging provenance, the auction world has also seen its share of bad press, with many calling into question the originality of certain high-profile lots including the story of an Omega Speedmaster that was faked with insider help from Omega HQ in Switzerland. Not a good look. We admit we’re no experts in the field of high-profile auctions or vintage watches so we looked to Tony Traina, a talented writer, researcher, and friend of the page to delve deeper into the good, the bad, and the ugly of modern watch auctions. As it turns out, watch auctions are their own wilderness of mirrors. Tony has his own newsletter called Unpolished. If you are interested in learning more, you can subscribe HERE. What The World Of Watch Auctions Reveals About History, Strategy, & Brand Power By Anthony Traina An estimated 5M people attended President Nasser’s funeral in 1970. On October 1, 1970, more than 5 million people attended the funeral of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser. One of the most respected leaders in the Arab world, Nasser died suddenly at the age of 52. It’s thought to be one of the most-attended funerals in history. Gamal Abdel Nasser (1918–1970) was an Egyptian military officer and revolutionary who became the country's second president, serving from 1956 until his death. A central figure in modern Arab history, he championed Arab nationalism, led the nationalization of the Suez Canal, and pursued policies that transformed Egypt but sometimes sparked regional conflicts and polarized opinions. Nasser wore his Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President” throughout his life. On Nasser’s wrist during most of his time as president: A gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President.” It can be seen in various photos, from his negotiations with world leaders to playing with his five children. In December 2024, Nasser’s Rolex Day-Date sold at Sotheby’s New York for $840,000. As far as I can tell, it’s the third most expensive Day-Date ever sold. More than a watch, it’s a historical artifact that tells the story of Nasser and the formation of the modern Arab world. Almost as interesting as the watch and the big result is the rumored buyer: Rolex. Hammering for $840k, Nasser’s Day-Date was reportedly purchased by Rolex. (Photo Credit: Sotheby's) It’s just the latest example of a brand purportedly buying one of its own historically important watches at auction. Patek Philippe, Zenith, TAG Heuer, and even Movado are all known to be active in the auction market. The influx of money into watches has turned auctions into big business, with brands' moves—whether covert or public—highlighting both the opportunities and risks. Understanding the players, their motives, and behind-the-scenes dynamics is key to finding extraordinary watches at auctions; without a strategy, you risk costly mistakes. What Is A Watch Auction? (Photo Credit: Christie’s) A few times a year, the major international auction houses—Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s—host watch-themed auctions in the world’s major horological hubs of Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong. It’s where the most historically important, expensive, and rare watches typically come for sale. But they’re not without controversy, the most notable scandal involving a record-breaking Omega Speedmaster in 2021 that turned out to be a put-together “Frankenwatch.” The Omega Speedmaster “Frankenwatch” sold in 2021 for $3.4M. (Photo Credit: Phillips) While auctions are public affairs and record-breaking results garner headlines, the real stories and action happen behind the scenes. Covering the watch industry, I’ve attended several watch auctions. I’ve seen Rolex representatives bidding in the auction room for their historical pieces, methodically building a collection ranging from some of the best-preserved examples in the world (paying millions for top-condition Milgauss and Daytona examples) to the most historically important. But auctions aren’t just for high-end pieces. I’ve bought watches at major and regional auctions – and from familiar toolmakers like Heuer and Enicar, not top luxury brands like Patek Philippe. There’s something for everyone if you know how to navigate it. From Watch To Historical Artifact The caseback on Nasser’s Rolex tells a story. (Photo Credit: Tony Traina) Take Nasser’s Day-Date. Its caseback engraving begins to tell its full story: “Mr. Anwar El Sadat 26-9-1963” Anwar El Sadat, a lifelong friend of Nasser and fellow graduate of the Egyptian Military Academy, became Egypt's vice president in 1969 and succeeded Nasser as president in 1970. Nasser can be seen wearing the Day-Date while he visited soldiers and negotiated with diplomats, reshaping the modern Arab world – a witness to history in a way few objects are. Rolex purchased a GMT-Master formerly belonging to Pan-Am pilot Captain Clarence Warren for CHF 177,800. (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) It’s far from the first watch Rolex has won. Luckily, these watches haven’t been doomed to some vault deep beneath Rolex HQ in Geneva. At Watches & Wonders last year, Rolex displayed several historically important GMT-Masters to celebrate the launch of a new GMT-Master II. This included Captain Clarence Warren’s GMT-Master ref. 6542 (which sold at auction for CHF 177,800), worn on the first Pan-Am flight from New York to Moscow, when then-Vice President Richard Nixon requested Warren to pilot his visit to the Soviet Union. For his airborne accomplishments, Rolex would later feature Capt. Warren in an advertising campaign. Also on display was Jack Swigert’s Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn while he was the command module pilot of Apollo 13.  As W.O.E. has covered before, modern watch brands are machines dedicated to marketing as much as mechanics. The activity of these brands in the auction market is no different. These big auction results make headlines in mainstream news, helping to reposition luxury watches as heritage objects that can last generations and even witness history. It’s the type of storytelling and brand-building that brands dream of. A LIP belonging to Charles de Gaulle sold for over $500k. (Photo Credit: Artcurial) And these big results aren’t limited to Rolex. Former French President Charles de Gaulle’s electric LIP watch recently sold in an auction of his personal effects for more than $500,000. In an auction of hundreds of his personal items, it’s his watch—a simple electric model from a French maker – that sold for five times more than any of his journals, letters, or medallions. Sure, it’s marketing, but it wouldn’t be so effective if it didn’t hold a grain of truth. Especially through the middle of the 20th century, the men and women making history often had watches on their wrists as they led their governments, piloted command modules, or served their country. These were tools that helped guide those who shaped or reshaped the world. Strategic Operations & Watch Auctions A Tudor Submariner issued to the South African Navy. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Somewhere along the way, many of these toolmakers turned into luxury brands. Of course, they still make tools too—for civilians or the military—but auctions are another public stage upon which the secretive drama of the Swiss watch industry now plays out. While the spectacle of auctions and the high prices capture headlines, the real story happens behind the scenes. Auctions are also more accessible than ever. All offer online, phone, and in-person bidding, with the largest auctions often having more than 2,000 registered bidders. Preparation is key: evaluating the watches, understanding the players, acting with discipline and strategy, and avoiding the emotion of the moment. If you’re looking to get involved in auctions, whether you’re spending $100 or $100,000 here are a few tips to get started. Understand The Incentives (Photo Credit: Phillips) Auction Houses & Specialists: Every party comes to an auction with its own incentives and acts accordingly. The most important to know is that auction houses represent the seller, not the buyer. Their goal is to achieve the highest price for the consignor of the watch. Of course, they want both buyer and seller to be happy, and there is the risk of reputational damage if deals go south. But their goal is to achieve the best result for their client, the seller. Auction houses make money by charging a commission on sales (called the “buyer’s premium”), typically somewhere in the range of 25 to 27 percent. This means they typically don’t take a financial stake in a watch, but make money by selling the watch. While they will provide information and condition reports, keep all of this in mind when reviewing the information provided. The goal will be to illustrate the potential of a lot without focusing on its issues or making any guarantees. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Buyers (Dealers, Collectors, Brands): Anyone can throw their hat in the ring and bid at an auction, but they may have different goals. Private collectors want to own historically important watches for all the reasons a collector might – from pure passion to pure ego. Watch out for the latter: ego knows no rationality. As we’ve discussed, brands might also bid at auctions. This could be to acquire historically important pieces for their archives or museums. Or, they might want to “protect” the perception of their brand on the secondary market. Either way, it’s important to know that big-time, institutional money might be after a lot, particularly if it has historical importance. Finally, dealers are always lurking. If there’s an opportunity to resell a watch for more money, expect a dealer’s paddle to go up. For large institutional dealers that hold significant inventory, there also may be incentives to bid up certain watches to “protect” the value of their existing inventory. For example, a well-known secondary market player has significant stock in indies De Bethune and F.P. Journe and is known to actively support those markets at auction. The Crowd: There’s also the crowd. That’s everyone from media to influencers to curious onlookers. They cover the news and can amplify record-breaking or scandalous results to generate clicks or headlines. Do Your Homework & Build Your Own Relationships (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) In the watch industry, professionals often move between roles—media members move to auctions, dealers become specialists, and vice versa. All are invested in maintaining a healthy market and ensuring steady growth, so buyers feel confident in spending on expensive watches. This means they all have their own relationships and generally don’t want to disrupt the status quo. This dynamic explains why it’s important to build your own relationships before spending significant sums at auction. This requires being on the ground to assess the situation. When possible, it’s best to attend auctions and auction previews in person. Watch auction previews are a great watch to learn more about vintage watches. (Photo Credit: Asharq Al-Awsat) Auction previews are perhaps the best way to experience vintage watches in person. You’ll hear stories from specialists that don’t make their way into catalogs. But it’s also the best way to make connections, assess watches, and learn. Put your ear to the ground and see if you catch any gossip (there’s always gossip). On the day of the auction, being in the room is the only way to get a feel for the important players, who’s bidding on what, and the general vibe of the sale. Because auction specialists ultimately represent the seller, it’s often helpful to have an independent third-party dealer you trust to help vet watches. Once you develop a personal relationship with auction specialists, they are also more likely to tell you more information about a watch. Flaws that might not be readily disclosed but that they’re comfortable telling to a valued client. Last Call (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Watch auctions, though public, carry a certain air of espionage. Specialists whisper discreetly into phones, connecting with clients around the globe. When brands like Rolex bid, they often don’t even raise a paddle; a nod to the auctioneer often suffices – visible only to those who know to look for it. While these professionals act in rational self-interest, they may exploit private collectors driven by passion. That’s why coming to auctions well-informed is essential. Armed with knowledge, you can bid strategically. If you’re ready to try your hand at auctions – good luck! If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Inside Look At The Swiss Watch Industry About The Author: Tony Traina is the editor and founder of Unpolished, a weekly newsletter about what’s really happening in watches. He’s a former editor at Hodinkee. Subscribe to receive Unpolished in your inbox.

Espionage In Luxury, Trump Tariffs, Watch Crime, & The Watches Of Middle-Eastern Leaders By Benjamin Lowry It’s time for the December edition of our Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap of the previous month’s watch-related news, and any other current events related to our community, paired with our commentary. Tomorrow, we’ll kick off 2025, but before we put a bow on the past year, let’s take a closer look at December’s watch-related happenings. December didn’t disappoint, with espionage making the news at the highest echelons of luxury goods, the watches of Syrian leaders, and new tariffs on the horizon that will likely significantly impact watch brands. In addition, we take a closer look at yet another instance of watch crime targeting a comedian friend of none other than Joe Rogan before discussing the auction of a Rolex owned by Gamal Abdel Nasser, the former President of Egypt. Buckle up, it’s time for the SITREP. Luxury’s Most Powerful Man Takes The Stand In Corporate Espionage Trial (Photo Credit: AFP) While espionage is often the work of state actors and the military, intelligence tradecraft works just as well, and is just as common, in the corporate world. Earlier this month, Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH and one of the world’s richest men, was called to testify in the French trial of Bernard Squarcini, a former head of France’s domestic security service—a spy in other words. Squarcini was hired as a consultant by LVMH to help monitor counterfeiting and more interestingly keep track of some of the group’s left-wing adversaries, allegedly breaking more than a few laws in the process. (Photo Credit: Reuters) Unsurprisingly, Arnault said he didn’t know anything about any illegal surveillance or other illicit activities. In any case, the trial is a rare glimpse into an often unseen world where huge corporations are willing to pay big bucks—and break the law—to protect their image and bottom line. Along with the Swatch and Richemont Groups and Rolex/Tudor, LVHM is among the largest conglomerates in watches, serving as the parent organization behind TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, and Bulgari, among other brands. Syrian Rebel Leader Changes Watches As He Seeks To Become Statesman Al-Jolani made the change from a digital tool watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman. When “rebel leader” Abu Mohammed al-Jolani overthrew the Assad regime earlier this month, taking control of Syria in the process, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: olive drab fatigues and a black plastic digital tool watch (D.T.W.). Since then, al-Jolani has made a noticeable shift in his appearance, from bad-guy-in-a-GWOT-movie to a bonafide Banana Republic head of state. Once again demonstrating the power of watches in sending a message, al-Jolani also swapped watches from his tactical digital model to a much more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1. The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 is Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice when in head-of-state mode. The Seiko is not expensive by watch standards but is also not out of place in his new role as he seeks international legitimacy. Whether the watch plays a part or not, the changes seem to be working. Al-Jolani, who now prefers to be called by his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, has been busy entertaining throngs of diplomats from around the world in recent weeks, all with a Seiko on his wrist. An Al-Assad-signed Rolex Submariner was auctioned by Antiquorum in November. (Photo Credit: Antiquorum) Often in the news for the wrong reasons, Syria has always been an interesting historical footnote for watch enthusiasts, with the Al-Assad regime famously ordering numerous Rolex models including the Submariner, Explorer II, and Sea-Dweller, typically with Hafez Al-Assad’s signature on the dial. For more on Assad’s watches, see a previous Dispatch on Watches Of The Middle East. Trump’s Promised Tariffs Could Make Already Expensive Watches A Lot More Costly (Photo Credit: AP) President-Elect Donald Trump has promised to invoke new tariffs targeting Mexico, Canada, and China as early as his first day in office. These tariffs, essentially a tax on goods coming from these countries, will amount to 25% for Mexico and Canada and a 10% increase to any existing tariffs for China. (He previously threatened 60% tariffs on goods from China). In China’s case, Trump specifically states the tariffs will continue until the country ceases its illegal import of fentanyl into the United States. Whether they say “Swiss Made” on the dial or not, many watch components come from China. (Photo Credit: European Press Photo Agency) The rising tariffs for goods manufactured in China will likely mean higher prices for the watch industry as many raw materials and finished components are Chinese, including parts of watches that claim to be “Swiss-made”. This could have a particular impact on microbrands, which rely on China for cost-effective manufacturing. At the moment, it’s unclear how it will shake down if these tariffs come to pass, but with around 20% of Swiss watchmaking being imported to the United States through the US arms of Swiss watch brands, one would imagine these higher costs will eventually be passed on to US consumers. Comedian Hans Kim Drugged & Robbed Of Rolex & $25k In Cash Hans Kim wearing his (now-stolen) Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: Time & Tide) If you’ve read the SITREP before, you know we like to catch our monthly dose of watch-related crime. This month, the growing luxury watch robbery trend touched the fringes of celebrity when Hans Kim, a comedian and friend of Joe Rogan, was robbed of his Rolex by a woman he brought back to his place. This story comes from episode 2238 of The Joe Rogan Experience, where Rogan describes Kim losing his Rolex and “25,000 dollars in cash” after waking up alone the morning after meeting what he thought was a nice young lady. According to Rogan, testing later revealed Kim had a lot of Xanax in his system. Apparently, Kim’s lady friend put crushed-up Xannies in his drink the night before to put him to sleep, making him an easy target. Also, who on Earth (besides Diddy) has $25k lying around their house? Luckily, though out 25 grand a Rolex, Kim appears to be unharmed. We’ve said this before, but if you’re a solid six and a ten walks up to you in a bar anxious to take you home, be suspicious. It’s possible they’re not only interested in your sense of humor. James Stacey, Hodinkee’s New Editor-In-Chief While we normally don’t cover industry news as such, we’d like to take a moment to congratulate our friend James Stacey who recently took the reins as Editor-In-Chief over at Hodinkee. James is a good dude, half of the team at TGN along with Jason Heaton, a gifted writer/photographer, and a longtime believer in the Use Your Tools ethos, at least when it comes to GMTs. James is a friend of both W.O.E. and myself and has been a great resource as we have grown our platform. While we admit Hodinkee has faced its share of challenges in recent years, we’re excited and hopeful to see where the platform goes with Stacey at the editorial helm. Rolex Purchases A 1963 President Day-Date Belonging To President Gamal Abdel Nasser of Egypt (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) On December 6th, a 1963 gold President Day-Date sold at a Sotheby’s auction for an astonishing $840,000, well over the auction house’s $60k estimate. Far from the average mid-century Rolex, this watch was owned by late Egyptian President Gamal Nasser and given to him by Anwar El Sadat, his successor, in 1963. Dripping with provenance, the case back offers an inscription from Sadat, and the watch has been in family hands since Nasser’s passing in 1970, right up until his grandson elected to put it up for auction. Presidents Eisenhower and Nasser, photographed in New York in 1960. Nasser’s Rolex is just visible. Nasser was responsible for the 1952 revolution that destroyed Egypt’s British-controlled monarchy. His influence on the country’s political landscape and the broader Arab world’s relationship with the West are difficult to overstate. Intriguingly, the watch was purchased by the Rolex organization, marking another example of the Crown curating its history by buying important watches at auction, including a GMT-Master worn by Apollo 17 Command Module Pilot Ron Evans. We’ve written at length about watches and world leaders, but suffice it to say that especially for heads of state, a watch is never just a watch. We have asked our friend Tony Traina what this really means and he has pledged to write a more in-depth Dispatch in the near future, stay tuned. Final Thoughts With only a few days left in 2024, we hope you’ve enjoyed this holiday-sized portion of watch industry news and our pedantic commentary. Whether it’s Bernard Arnault catchin’ smoke over corporate espionage, new Trump tariffs that might make your next Seamaster more expensive than ever, a Syrian rebel leader’s watch transformation, a comedian being drugged and robbed of his Rolex, or the Crown itself buying yet another historically-important watch, December provided a ho-ho-whole lot of watch goodies to capture our attention. Before we close out the year, thanks again for your support. We’ve been amazed to see W.O.E. grow from the Instagram page that started it all to the website to our collection of purpose-built tools to the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Stay tuned. Happy New Year from all of us at W.O.E. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - November 2024

Omega Unit Watches, Vladimir Putin, The Seiko 6309, & A Black Pelagos FXD - It’s Been A Big Year With 2024 drawing to a close, let’s take a moment to recap some of the top Dispatch articles from this past year. To put it mildly, the W.O.E. Dispatch has grown by leaps and bounds, from sharing never-before-seen Omega Unit Watches to digging into the history of the legendary Seiko 6309 to picking some of our favorite military watches on the market. We have no plans to slow down in the new year, but for now, let’s see what resonated with our community in 2024. 10. CIA Timepiece Analysis: President Putin and Tucker Carlson Back in February, former Fox News talk show host Tucker Carlson interviewed former KGB officer and current Russian President Vladimir Putin in Moscow. While much of the media coverage focused on the controversy surrounding Tucker, in this Dispatch, we focus on what we know best: the watches present at the meeting in the Kremlin. Putin’s watch history is particularly interesting as is his habit of removing his watch before interviews including this one. Continue Reading 9. Sangin Instruments - The Marine-Owned “Raider Rolex” I first heard of Sangin Instruments during TDY travel to a war zone while at CIA. At the time, I was responsible for a counterterrorism Covert Action program in the Middle East and I was traveling to visit the program on a flight with other CIA officers. During that trip, I began to notice Sangin Instruments watches on the wrists of SpecOps personnel, CIA paramilitary officers, and other case officers. For this closer look at the brand, I sat down with Sangin founder Jacob Servantes for a deep dive into how Sangin Instruments came to be. Continue Reading 8. The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD Customizing My Dream Watch, The W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection. Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community. The latest manifestation of that link, the Pelagos FXD, is the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed in collaboration with modern SpecOps units. Here, I discuss not only acquiring the Pelagos FXD but also my personal journey to have the watch PVD-coated. Continue Reading 7. Dear Panerai, Stop Putting the Navy SEAL Trident On Watches An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage Back in 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection”, intended for purchase by the public and not exclusively Navy SEALs. The prices range from $10,000 to $60,000, and the high-end models include an invitation to a multi-day Special Operations experience (Xperience) which is, for lack of a better term, corny. In this Dispatch, we examine why slapping a SEAL Trident on a watch is not the right thing to do for so many reasons and on so many levels. Continue Reading 6. The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. Backed by a somewhat unhealthy fascination with illicit activity, arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, and organized crime, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. After all, there’s nothing like first-hand experience Continue Reading 5. The Most Iconic Military Watch Of All Time? The Seiko 6309 One Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. In this Dispatch, W.O.E. team member Benjamin Lowry argues the humble 6309 is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades. Issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others, Ben might even be right. Continue Reading 4. Bezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community For our community, watches are tools, functional items we integrate into our daily lives. Meant to last a lifetime and be passed down to the next generation, their “value” isn’t monetary, it's derived from our shared experiences with these inanimate objects. There are a lot of parallels between our relationship with timepieces and knives, two things that are present with every SpecOps and intelligence practitioner both historically and today. In this piece, we explore the relationship between bezels and blades. Continue Reading 3. The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members While we admit most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. Continue Reading 2. A Mystery Death in Oslo, An Intelligence Op Gone Wrong? An unidentified woman was found dead in a luxury Oslo hotel. Was “Jennifer Fairgate” an assassin, spy, or a troubled woman looking to disappear? Her timepiece is a clue to solving a complex puzzle that reads like a Hollywood thriller. In this mystery Dispatch, we discuss what is known about Jennifer Fairgate’s death while also sharing our theories about the real story behind the young woman who died in an Oslo hotel room all those years ago. Continue Reading 1. Omega's Modern Unit Watch Program Frogmen, SEALs, & The US Secret Service Omega has a long history of producing watches for the military, most notably the classic Seamaster 300 made for the British Royal Navy. Today the company is continuing that history with special production “Unit Watches,” and appears to have standardized its program, offering a unique Seamaster Diver 300M solely to military and law enforcement units. The options for customization include the unit insignia on the caseback as well as a name/call sign or other identifier associated with the individual. In this piece, we share Omega Unit Watches from the Danish Frogman Corps, US Secret Service, US Navy SEALs, and other legendary units. Continue Reading – Thanks again to everyone who read an article in 2024. We couldn’t do any of this without you. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Happy Holidays and stay tuned. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Top Dispatch Articles of 2023 - Watches of Espionage

I Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches is obvious. Based on a watchmaking tradition going back centuries, Switzerland is home to the majority of luxury watch brands from Patek Phillipe and Rolex to Tissot and Hublot. The country’s connections to espionage are less understood. A historically neutral country, Switzerland houses several international organizations including the United Nations in Geneva, and is often the location of high-stakes intergovernmental meetings both overt and clandestine. Traditionally loose banking laws have also made Switzerland a convenient place for individuals to store wealth, regardless of the origin of those financial gains.    Needless to say, Switzerland is a country that I have visited many times and holds a special place in my heart. W.O.E. at Omega SA in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland The intentions for this trip were simple: to learn more about the Swiss watch industry and specifically brands that are closely aligned with our community. While Omega, Tudor, IWC, and Breitling are very different companies, the one thing they have in common is decades-old relationships with our community. Initially producing purpose-built issued military watches in the 20th century, today these brands are the leaders of modern unit watch programs.  IWC’s pilot’s watches, Omega’s Seamasters, Tudor’s extensive dive line, and Breitling's aviation-centric collection are accurately depicted as luxury items today, but they were all once purpose-built tools. “Watches of Espionage” is in the DNA of each of these companies and I would go as far as to say they would not exist or be where they are today without military end users. Breitling manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (W.O.E.) I was fortunate to meet with CEOs, watch designers/watchmakers, suits, and most relevant to W.O.E., the individuals that run each brand’s Unit Watch programs. The experience gave me a deeper appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and resources it takes to build and sustain a leading watch company. I realize how unique it is to be granted access to these closed-off facilities and this level of openness is not something I take for granted. A Geography Lesson Geneva, Switzerland. Switzerland’s watchmaking industry is intriguing in that it spreads across the relatively small country’s varied geography and its many cultural boundaries. While many of the watch industry’s corporate headquarters are located in Geneva, Switzerland's second-most populous city, the majority of actual production including movements takes place in the Jura mountains spanning the country’s northwestern border. Traditionally, watchmakers expanded to this area to take advantage of an agricultural workforce that was dormant during the winter months, creating the “farmer watchmaker” heritage that many brands tout today. Map of Switzerland’s watchmaking centers. (Credit: Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry) Swiss watchmaking also spans the country’s language barriers. Rolex/Tudor, which is headquartered in Geneva, is staffed primarily by French-speaking Swiss or French workers traveling across the border, but as you head north toward Biel/Bienne, Omega’s headquarters, language and culture shift to a blend of French and German influence. Breitling is also a brand of two cultures, with Swiss-German origins, a headquarters in German-speaking Grenchen, and a production facility in French-speaking La Chaux-de-Fonds. In contrast, IWC is located in Schaffhausen, near Zürich and just across the border from Germany, conducting nearly all of its business in German. Form Follows Function - Purpose-Built Tools Ander Ugarte (left) and Christian Koop are the head designers for Tudor and IWC, respectively. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting with Christian Koop and Ander Ugarte, the heads of design of IWC and Tudor, respectively.  Intensely passionate and masters of their craft, each walked us through the process and attention to detail involved in designing a modern watch for brands steeped in heritage and tradition.  The DNA of iconic watches like the IWC Mark series and Tudor dive watches can be traced back to the divers and soldiers who wore them over half a century ago. While today’s watches trend to luxury items vs real tools, a common phrase I heard was “form follows function.” The watches are still designed with the end user in mind, just as they were a century ago. Automation vs. Hand-Crafted Modern watchmaking is a fascinating blend of cutting-edge technology and centuries-old hand craftsmanship. The two most surprising aspects of visiting the manufacturing facilities of Breitling, Omega, and IWC were the number of robots/automated steps in contrast with the number of steps still requiring human touch. The manufacturing facilities are reliant on technicians and watchmakers from the rural areas of Switzerland, who still work farmers' hours, just as they did centuries ago.  Breitling watch technician. Each morning, hundreds of watchmakers and technicians arrive at the facilities, don sterile antistatic white coats and clean Crocs or Birkenstocks, and spend hours tightening tiny screws to spec or attaching dials to movements. It is a painstaking process and a truly remarkable juxtaposition of futuristic cutting-edge technology and traditional watchmaking. Trying my hand at watchmaking at IWC Schaffhausen. The result is a watch containing hundreds of components, all working in sync to tell you the time. The watches are then shipped around the world through complex dealer networks and intermediaries for you to purchase. Seeing this process firsthand is a remarkable experience and gives me a greater appreciation for the technical and logistical prowess required in Swiss watchmaking. Military Unit Watch Programs - Omega, Tudor, IWC, & Breitling A “Unit Watch” is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization. Customizations can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. When it comes to Swiss watches, Tudor, Omega, and IWC are the modern leaders in the space and we have profiled each program in past articles.  An Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” produced for the US Navy SEALs. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A cynical analysis of these programs would conclude they are sophisticated marketing initiatives, meant to garner publicity through leaks on social media. While I would argue they accomplish this goal in certain instances, the reality is the brands are largely hesitant to publicly acknowledge the partnerships. Swiss brands have spent decades carefully curating a specific narrative to position themselves as aspirational luxury goods. “Tudors of Espionage,” “Sketchy dudes wear Breitling”, and an iconic image of Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a Secret Service agent after an assassination attempt run counter to these carefully crafted narratives.  Diplomatic Security Tudor Black Bay 58. Further, in contrast to smaller brands like Bremont which garner significant revenue from military programs, for the large Swiss houses, it is costly to divert resources to customizing a dial or caseback for a relatively small batch of custom watches, which are also often sold at a discount. In short, these programs likely aren't big money makers for brands that measure watch sales in the hundreds of thousands of units. IWC Unit Watch for AH-64 pilots. So why do large luxury watch brands bother with Unit Watches? As far as I can tell, these programs are passion projects for individuals within each company and they are somewhat controversial for some brands. I have spent significant time with the individuals in charge of the unit watch programs and they are fiercely passionate about them. They truly believe that they are serving a greater calling by producing meaningful tools and heirlooms for our community. Not surprisingly, these individuals also appreciate what we are doing at Watches of Espionage. Watch Brands Are Businesses This one is so obvious that it shouldn't have to be said, but it's a simple fact that many watch “enthusiasts” often forget. The purpose of a watch company is not to make watches, it's to make money. Many of the individuals who work at the major brands are suits, marketing professionals, and technicians who could work for any number of companies in the luxury goods space. While some of them are passionate about watches, the majority of them likely do not consume watch content on their personal time and are not “watch nerds.” Swatch Group Headquarters, left is Omega building. (Photo CreditL Stefan Wermuth/Bloomberg) To be clear, while I enjoy making fun of suits as much as the next guy, this is actually a good thing. If you love watches like I do, then you should want watch brands to succeed… at making money. Headwinds for the watch industry are at an all-time high with Apple Watch sales surpassing the entire Swiss watch industry. It’s not a foregone conclusion that the most iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet will be around in 2074. For the most part, modern watches are luxury goods, meaning they are unnecessary. If they are not profitable, they will disappear. Watch nerds often shed crocodile tears on internet forums complaining about why brand X doesn't produce a specific watch or “listen to the community,” but the reality is brands generally make decisions based on mass market appeal. It may be a tough pill to swallow, but many brands do not care about enthusiasts, and from a bottom-line perspective, they shouldn’t. Ownership Matters As consumers, we often think of brands as discrete monoliths, independent entities that make design and product decisions in a vacuum. However, industry consolidation has led to four conglomerates owning the majority of the Swiss watch industry; Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the parent organization for Rolex and Tudor. Somewhat dated graphic showing ownership in the watch industry (Image Credit: Tony Traina, Rescapement) While in theory, the brands are independent or semi-independent entities, the reality is that Omega's decisions could impact the overall standing and profitability of Swatch Group as a whole, and IWC is just one node of the broader Richemont family. While Tudor often paints itself as an independent entity, when I visited Tudor HQS in Geneva, it was inside Rolex. It’s naive to think that there is no coordination between the companies. Breitling was purchased from the Schneider family by a private equity company in 2017 and whether we like it or not, the overall decisions of the brand are impacted by this ownership structure. (Photo Credit: Rolex) Conglomerates are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they offer access to capital and resources, Richemont and Swatch Group are multibillion-dollar conglomerates with robust infrastructure and supply chains. On the other hand, the conglomerates must ensure each company works towards the same goal, which likely limits independence and creativity at the brand level. Coopetition - Competitors Or Partners? Further, even between competing brands, there is a level of cooperation and sharing. Historically, the legendary Rolex Daytona utilized a chronograph movement supplied by Zenith. Even today, Breitling and Tudor, theoretically arch rivals, share movements, with Breitling utilizing several of Tudor’s base automatic calibers and Tudor receiving a modified version of the B01 chronograph caliber in return, a level of cooperation you aren’t going to see from Apple and Samsung. Tudor's MT5612 is produced by Tudor and voluntarily shared with Breitling, a rival watchmaker. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) While they’re never going to admit it publicly, many of the biggest brands also look to the same suppliers for specific components from jewels to mainsprings to cases and bracelets to construct their “in-house” movements and complete watches. Third-party certifications like COSC and METAS are also utilized by multiple brands looking for a competitive advantage. Despite being fundamentally in competition, I heard several brand leaders admit the overall health of the Swiss watch industry is always in mind. A rising tide lifts all ships. For the industry to succeed holistically, the brands must balance being fiercely competitive with a measured level of cooperation. While it was created in collaboration with Omega and an impartial third party, Tudor has also started instituting METAS testing and certification for some of its watches. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) Tribalism Exists at Every Level Visit any social media watch page and the tribalism—visceral feelings for or against a specific brand—is evident. There are fewer general “watch guys” and more “Rolex” or “Omega” guys. The passion is real and watch nerds think their brand is the best and everyone else sucks. The individuals I met at each brand were fiercely proud of the product they produce, which is cool to see. While they were professional enough to not bad mouth another company outright, it's clear that they truly believed their brand was the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. While this may sound like a negative, this intense conviction to be the best was inspiring. If I buy a Tudor, Omega, Breitling, or IWC, I like knowing that the people making it in the mountains of Switzerland are true believers. Heritage Matters Omega museum, Biel/Bienne, Switzerland When you buy a watch, you are not just buying the components, you are buying a piece of history. One of the most educational aspects of the trip was visiting the museums of Breitling in Zurich, Omega in Biel/Bienne, and IWC in Schaffhausen. For the brands I visited, the history is rich and compelling, and on full display. Breitling Emergency Prototype (Breilting Museum, Zurich Switzerland) Of course, the brands emphasize certain periods and events to carefully curate a narrative, but they are still compelling because it’s authentic.  Omega’s museum had numerous watches worn by astronauts, soldiers, and spies, both real and contrived (Bond, James Bond). IWC was founded by an American soldier, Florentine Ariosto Jones who fought for the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the Civil War and would go on to produce watches for both the Allies and the Germans during World War II, something the museum refreshingly does not gloss over. Breitling’s DNA is rooted in aviation, having provided issued watches during both World Wars decades before becoming a go-to option for those operating on the fringe of sketchiness in the 1990s and 2000s. These museums are open to the public, and I encourage you to visit if you find yourself in Switzerland. The great thing about the country is you can get pretty much anywhere in a few hour train ride. Left is an issued “MN” Tudor MilSub on an original strap, fashioned from parachute webbing. The one on the right was a unit purchase gift for a retiring officer. It was purchased through the MN Rolex-certified watchmaker, Yves Pastre who had a workshop in Toulon. (Photo Credit: Tudor Archives/W.O.E.) Unfortunately, Tudor does not have a museum, but they did provide us access to their extensive archives of military-issued watches and prototypes. This will be the subject of a future Dispatch and the spice level was high. Swiss Watch Marketing is Antiquated I have written in the past about the sophisticated marketing machines behind the Swiss watch industry and this trip confirmed that thesis (Read Here). The major brands, including IWC, Tudor, Omega, and Breitling, have masterfully curated a narrative based on decades-old craftsmanship and history, that makes them leaders in a crowded industry.  In addition to co-opting watch media, they spend millions of dollars a year sponsoring sporting events, recruiting celebrity ambassadors, and producing slick marketing material. Watches and Wonders, an international watch and jewelry industry organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. (Photo Credit: Wikicommons) While I am by no means a marketing expert, I am intimately familiar with human nature. I get the feeling that the brands are reliant on what has worked in the past and not focused on the future, or for that matter the present. Celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, film product placement, and heavily-curated “new releases” are masterclasses in Marketing 101 but the modern consumer is savvy and the media landscape has changed. Legacy watch publications have declined in recent years and have been replaced by a plethora of dispersed voices. There are TikTokers, Youtubers, and podcast hosts who are more influential than Tom Brady and even James Bond. The Swiss watch industry appears slow to adapt to the new landscape and continues to fall back on tried and true methods. Given its age, watchmaking as a whole is steeped in tradition and slow to adapt, especially when it comes to reaching the younger consumers the industry so desperately needs to continue. W.O.E. in Schaffhausen, wearing the same IWC Mark XVII I wore while operational at CIA. Does visiting a facility impact how I will cover them? To date, we have kept the traditional watch industry at arm's length distance, something that frankly much of the industry is okay with. That said, as we have grown our audience we owe it to our community to present thoughtful and unbiased commentary on the watches and brands that are aligned with our ethos. I made some great friends and contacts on this trip and am grateful for the level of access I was granted. It will continue to be a balance between nurturing these relationships and remaining unswayed by the influence of the brands on content. Despite some of the critiques above, my appreciation for the Swiss watch industry in general and these legendary brands in particular could not be higher. I am grateful for those individuals who made this trip possible and thankful for the time and effort of the teams in Switzerland. There are several threads to pull on from this trip and we plan to write additional stories on IWC’s “Top Gun” unit watch program, recent developments in Omega’s unit watch offerings, and the real story behind the Tudor FXD. Thank you all for the support, more to come. -W.O.E. *Note, as with all of our content, this is not sponsored by Tudor, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or any other brand. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands

Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it?  You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary ​​If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB,  Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel,  Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop  

Straps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles on the Dispatch every week, the addition of our first full-time team member (intern), Benjamin Lowry, an Instagram following 185k strong, the launch of our YouTube Channel, and an ever-growing collection of tools on our site. Before we do anything else, thank you all for your continued support. The end of the year also means it’s time for the holidays, and we admit that watch enthusiasts and other gear-oriented people are notoriously hard to shop for. With that in mind, we assembled some of our top picks from the W.O.E store. Whether you’re shopping for yourself or trying to find exactly the right gift for the watch nerd in your life, this list includes a wide range of price ranges representing our most popular categories. *We will be closing up shop on December 14th this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* Straps: One of the single best gift ideas for a watch enthusiast is a strap, a relatively inexpensive way to give a watch a new look. For a comprehensive look at the entire W.O.E. strap collection, click HERE, but here are some of our recommendations for this holiday season. NEW - W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap - $85 More than a year in development, the new W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap is produced to our specifications from FKM or fluoroelastomer, the highest quality rubber material on the market, and paired with a custom engraved 316L stainless steel W.O.E. buckle. 007 Bond Nylon Strap - Five Eye - $35 In honor of filmmaking’s most legendary secret agent, the 007 versions of our Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap provide three distinct patterns recognizable to Bond fans paired with our custom matte weave nylon construction, custom 316L stainless steel “WOE” buckle, a reinforced stitched tip, and beveled keepers. Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 to $49 Available with either stainless steel or new PVD black hardware, the Glomar Explorer Hook And Loop Watch Strap is a premium execution of the classic hook and loop nylon straps favored by divers for decades. Gear: In addition to straps, we offer a wide variety of EDC or everyday carry tools not intended for watches. These are great options fit for virtually anyone who appreciates quality, utility, and W.O.E. The Mosebey Blade - $358 Inspired by Bill “Bwana” Mosebey, a legendary Africa Division Case Officer, The Mosebey Blade is a fully customized all-purpose blade made in the USA from premium domestic materials. Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover - $145 Produced by hand by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota, the Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover is made from full-grain leather and U.S. government spec canvas and intended to fit the (included) Moleskine Classic Softer Cover Notebook. W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat - $35 We didn’t reinvent the wheel here, they are hats. That said, this is the ultimate “if you know, you know,” and if someone recognizes you wearing the W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat, you are sure to have a new friend. The Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask - $89 For the adult beverage connoisseurs in the room, the Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask is made of food-grade stainless steel coated with copper and wrapped with American-tanned English Tan Dublin leather from The Horween Tannery in Chicago. W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack Hook & Loop - $25 One of our best options if you’re unsure where else to look, our hook and loop-backed W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack includes three unique designs referencing key aspects of our “Use Your Tools” ethos. Watch Storage: Whether you’re traveling internationally or just want a great way to store your collection of tool watches, our watch storage options are custom-made to suit the high standards of our community. The Diplomat 4 Watch Roll - $165 Produced in the United States, the Diplomat 4 Watch Roll safely holds four watches while being hand-sewn in the USA with American-made waxed ripstop canvas and leather. Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin - $138 Our first custom tool and still one of our favorites, the Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin set is produced in the United States by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota from US-tanned SB Foote leather and repurposed M81 camouflage material. 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case - $78 If security and safety from the elements are your primary concerns, the 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case is our best option, offering water resistance as well as custom-cut interior foam to safeguard your collection. W.O.E. X-Pac Strap Pouch - $42 Manufactured by hand in the United States from X-Pac, a waterproof three-layer material with a rugged camouflage 500D Cordura face fabric, the X-Pac Strap Pouch is an excellent option for straps, tools, or chargers. Home & Office: Whether you’re deeply into watches or not, our home and office collection provides excellent daily tools everyone can use to stay organized while demonstrating membership in our community. EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener - $115 For keys, watch accessories, or other small items, our EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener set is made from full grain leather and Mil-Spec canvas while coming with a custom metal bottle opener complete with the W.O.E. Spearhead insignia. W.O.E. Use Your Tools Coffee Mug - $35 If there’s one thing watch nerds and the military can agree on, it might be the importance of coffee. Our Use Your Tools Coffee Mug is handmade in the USA and complete with our Spearhead logo. W.O.E. Gift Card - $50 to $300 If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Tactical Watches & Christmas Films - Die Hard, Lethal Weapon & Home Alone

Trump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry Welcome back to the Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap and discussion of the previous month’s watch-related news and any other current events pertaining to our community. Here in the United States, Thanksgiving has come and gone and November is officially at an end. If it hasn’t already, Mariah Carey’s seminal work, "All I Want For Christmas Is You" will soon be bombarding your ears to harden your resolve ahead of another bustling yuletide season. But for now, let’s keep our sight picture squarely on watches and espionage. November offered a plethora of watch-related happenings from the worlds of politics, national security, and crime. In case you missed it, the US presidential election unveiled a new (old) president, with at least one of his potential appointments demonstrating solid watch taste likely related to his intriguing background. In addition, we have an updated Omega Seamaster, a legendary Japanese crime syndicate getting in on the watch theft trend, politicians surrendering watches, and some impressive Rolex stats. Trump’s Former SpecOps Pick For National Security Advisor Wears A Rolex GMT-Master II Rep. Mike Waltz is, like many members of US Army Special Forces, a Rolex guy. A few weeks back, President-elect Donald Trump asked Mike Waltz to serve as his national security advisor (NSA). We’re not here to comment on the political ramifications of Waltz serving in the role, but the Republican Representative from Florida does have quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.). Embodying the adage that all a Special Forces man needs are “a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex”, Waltz has been spotted on several occasions wearing a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710 also known as the “Batman”. W.O.E. has been known to call the Rolex GMT-Master the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch. With Waltz and SF legend Billy Waugh serving as excellent anecdotal evidence, the model family has strong roots in Special Forces as well. (Photo Credit: Green Beret Foundation) In another photo from the 80th anniversary of D-Day in Normandy, France where Waltz jumped from a WWII-Era C-47, he is seen wearing an older Rolex GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, potentially a reference 16710, on a nylon pull-through strap, clear indication Waltz is at least a little bit of a watch guy. A New Omega Seamaster Diver 300 Bares A Striking Resemblance To Unit Watches (Photo Credit: Omega) Leaked during the Olympics on the wrist of wannabe spy Daniel Craig, Omega finally officially unveiled its revamped Seamaster Diver 300. It’s not a meteoric change compared to the preexisting model, moving to a non-date format, transitioning from ceramic to aluminum for the dial and insert, and adding a mesh bracelet option. While we don’t typically cover new releases, there is an uncanny resemblance between the updated Seamaster Diver 300 and recent examples from Omega’s modern unit watch program that has outfitted the US Navy SEALs, US Secret Service, and the Danish Frogman Corps, to name a few. The US Secret Service Omega Seamaster unit watch. It would be a stretch to say the new watch was developed as an answer to the hype surrounding Omega’s unit watch program after the US Secret Service variant was spotted on the wrist of an agent during the attempted assassination of President-elect Donald Trump, but in any case, we’re happy to see one of the most popular luxury dive watches move in a more utilitarian direction better suited to the Use Your Tools lifestyle. Yakuza Suspected In Coordinated Luxury Theft Of 172 Rolex Watches An alleged Yakuza member wearing a Rolex Submariner “Bluesy”. (Photo Credit: Sabukaru) Recently in Osaka, Japan, a delivery van loaded with over 170 new Rolex watches was stolen while its driver left the vehicle unattended and unlocked for “around three minutes”. Three individuals have since been arrested in connection to the theft, with one having strong ties to the Yakuza, a legendary organized crime syndicate with roots dating back 300 years. As you’d imagine, the van was later dumped after being emptied of its horological contents, which had an estimated value of $1.9M. If your AD has been dodging you, now might be a great time to check Chrono24’s Japanese Rolex listings… I’m just saying. Also in Osaka, a store clerk and police detained a would-be robber after he attempted to flee with four luxury watches. While much of the conversation surrounding watch theft in 2024 revolves around European cities including London and Paris or New York and Los Angeles in the United States, this coordinated robbery demonstrates a growing trend in Japan. In contrast to the strongarm robberies often perpetrated in Europe and the US, watch thefts in Japan are, other than this delivery van robbery, typically characterized by organized smash and grabs of high-profile retail locations. For another example of an organized crime syndicate focused on watches and jewelry, check out our recent Dispatch on the Pink Panthers (HERE). Rudy Giuliani Surrenders 26 Luxury Watches After $148M Lawsuit L Giuliani wearing a Shinola chronograph that appears to have been among his surrendered watches. Former New York City Mayor and Time Magazine Person of the Year Rudy Giuliani has been ordered to surrender 26 luxury watches as well as a 1980 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 formerly owned by movie star Lauren Bacall. This comes after Giuliani’s meteoric $148M loss in a defamation lawsuit filed by two Georgia election workers following the 2020 US presidential election. Giuliani has been the subject of no shortage of financial concerns as of late, and it looks unlikely that he will be able to repay the $148M, hence the surrender of many of his personal effects which also includes a $5M apartment on the Upper East Side. A screen capture from Ted Goodman’s video on X showing some of Guiliani’s surrendered watches. (Photo Credit: X) On November 14th, a spokesperson for Giuliani, Ted Goodman, posted a video on X showing 18 watches and a ring he said were in the process of being turned over to relevant authorities. According to court documents, these watches include Bulova, Shinola, Tiffany & Co, Seiko, Frank Muller, Graham, Corium, Rolex, IWC, Invicta, Breitling, Raymond Weil, and Baume & Mercer.  In the video, Goodman goes on to say, “This is the accumulation of 60 years of hard work. Many of these watches hold great sentimental value.” Whatever Guiliani’s watch collection is worth, it’s a small drop in a $148M bucket. The Total Value Of The World’s Rolex Submariners Surpasses Many Nations Analysis of data released in the recent Rolex Submariner book provided surprising conclusions. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Based on analysis of the production data for Rolex Submariners released in the Crown’s recent book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep, the combined value of all of the nearly four million Submariner and Sea-Dweller models produced over the years adds up to a weighty $50B. It’s an astonishing figure, but the real revelations stem from contextual analysis of what a number like that means. We would have guessed the total value of Rolex’s Subs would have been a lot, but still… $50B is, for example, greater than the GDP or gross domestic product of countries like Jordan, Tunisia, Bahrain, El Salvador, Cambodia, and Iceland (according to 2023 World Bank Data). Of course, you can’t compile all of the world’s Submariners into an unholy Scrooge McDuck-style pool of gold doubloons, but the world-beating figure does help to illustrate the size of the global financial impact commanded by Rolex SA over the decades, which also turned over no less than $10B in 2023. We’re not here for Ernst Blofeld comparisons, but what kind of bargaining power and political influence does that offer to a brand that is already also among the most recognized on Earth? There’s a reason they call it “The Crown”, and it ain’t just the logo. Final Thoughts As we brace ourselves for the holiday season, we sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed your monthly helping of watch industry news and commentary. From a former Special Forces guy being picked to work in the White House with a Rolex Batman on the wrist to Rudy Giuliani’s forfeited watch collection to a Yakuza luxury watch heist, and an astonishing Rolex statistic, the November gales of watch industry content blew fast and strong. If you appreciate this format or have other stories you’d like to see covered in next month’s SITREP, please do not hesitate to let us know in the comments. If something about our coverage offended or upset you, we’re confident you’ll have no trouble expressing your concerns as well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - October 2024  

US Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s ability to live and work on the sea floor for an extended period, supported by a specialized underwater habitat. The techniques and equipment developed for SEALAB I, II, and III would later be used in shadowy underwater espionage targeting the Soviet Union, but SEALAB is better remembered to watch enthusiasts for some of the legendary watches used by some of history’s boldest divers. In this Dispatch, I’ll share how a chance encounter with a piece of handwritten history forever alters our understanding of the watches of the Navy’s final SEALAB project. __ For someone like me, the Man In The Sea Museum in Panama City Beach is something akin to paradise, providing one of the world’s most impressive collections of vintage military diving memorabilia, much of it related to SEALAB. Given the timing, SEALAB is associated with some of history’s great tool dive watches and played a key role in the development of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) But, despite what the internet may say, Rolex isn’t the only name in the SEALAB game. Thumbing through old binders while volunteering in the museum’s library, I came across an issue log for dive watches hand-written in 1968 by a SEALAB legend. The usual suspects including Rolex were there, but the log also illuminated the outsized role played by Doxa as well as another Swiss brand I would argue no one would ever guess. In this Dispatch, we’ll look to archival evidence, interviews with surviving Aquanauts, and a few educated guesses to provide the most complete picture ever assembled of the watches of SEALAB III. Man In The Sea Museum, Panama City Beach - 2022 My dad and I were hard at work cataloging and organizing the library in the Man in the Sea Museum when we came across a document that stopped us in our tracks. In this increasingly digitized world, there are still a few horological secrets lost to history waiting to be uncovered, the type of secrets that haven’t been converted to PDF. The same watch stories make the rounds again and again, some amazing discoveries are put forth by genuine horological enthusiasts, and some stories are haphazardly cobbled together by brands to help push more watches. Searching for dive watches in vintage photographs at the Man in the Sea Museum is the stuff of legend. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) Most are somewhere in between. Watches have never received the amount of attention they do today. Record-keeping for the sake of enthusiasm or posterity was not common practice. This is also true in the arena of dive watches, fostering a healthy debate about the actual timeline of the introduction of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and Rolex Submariner, in particular. Except when it comes to the military. In military settings and especially diving, recording every bit of minutiae is an occupational necessity, a matter of life and death in certain cases. Luckily, as a Coast Guard veteran turned commercial diver, it happens to be my area of interest, which is how I found myself volunteering to help organize the Man in the Sea Museum’s stacked but admittedly disheveled library a couple of years ago. The Man In The Sea Museum is home to the original SEALAB habitat as well as an incredible library full of old US Navy records. Leafing through records from the SEALAB programs, I came across a few scribbled lines on notebook paper that validated my years-long horological quest to understand the role of tool watches in the United States military, particularly in underwater applications. Along with these handwritten records, I uncovered hundreds of photographs from SEALAB that had yet to be digitized, and therefore, had yet to be seen by the watch community, until now. A dive watch enthusiast’s dream. An archival photo from the SEALAB program shows Dr. George “Papa Topside” Bond (left), Captain William Nicholson (center), and Commander Jack Tomsky (right). Tomsky is wearing a Doxa Sub. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) I went through binder after binder of records from all three of the Navy’s SEALAB experiments. I was looking for something that clued me into what equipment was used, particularly what watches were used. These aquanauts recorded everything. It was part of their job, of course, but the level of detail was staggering. A detailed record of saturation dives undertaken in a chamber at the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) preceding SEALAB III. (Source: US Navy) Finally, after hours spent carefully flipping through delicate aged paper and deciphering faded handwriting from the ‘60s, my efforts paid off. A list of the exact watches that were used on SEALAB III. And when I say exact, I mean it—right down to the serial numbers. And it came directly from one of the aquanauts, meticulously detailed like everything else about the mission. While several watchmakers have established SEALAB connections—including an excellent article by Justin Couture detailing the role potentially played by Aquastar—some of the brands mentioned in the log had never really been in the SEALAB conversation before, let alone with hard evidence of being officially issued by the US Navy. If I could, with the help of friends and former Aquanauts, prove the veracity of this hastily written log, our understanding of military dive watches would be forever altered. Here is the handwritten log that sent me so deeply down the rabbit hole. The original handwritten log was reportedly penned by none other than Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to serve on all three SEALAB missions. For the sake of legibility and to aid in deciphering the shorthand, I have—with help from surviving aquanauts—added some context to the list to help give us a better picture of who these watches were issued to. Watches Issued On 03 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Rolex, 25 jewels Cyril Tuckfield, Chief Petty Officer, USN     Rolex, serial 1478174 Derek J. Clark, Petty Officer First Class, Royal Navy    Jaquet Droz Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa William P. Lukeman, Leading Seaman, Royal Canadian Navy Doxas Issued To Aquanauts On 23 Sep & 27 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies Lieutenant Commander, USN Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Doxa 6665367 Mark E. Bradley, Lieutenant Commander, Medical Corps, USN Doxa 6665417 Robert A. Bornholdt, Lieutenant, USN, Team Leader   Aquanaut Bob Barth’s Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Unsurprisingly, we see the usual suspects on the wrists of the aquanauts, starting with Rolex, although it’s important to note that what was sometimes recorded as Rolex was sometimes actually a Tudor Submariner, as Rolex took care of distribution and delivery. In ‘69, the US Navy had a contract with Tudor that had already begun in the late ‘50s, so there’s a chance these watches came from that procurement arrangement. A brand associated with anything but diving in 2024, I was surprised to see Jaquet Droz mentioned in the issue log from SEALAB III. Looking through the list, something else stood out immediately. “JK Droz” was listed in the records as having been issued to an aquanaut. Surely not the Swatch-owned atelier producing automatons that cost six figures and watches with all sorts of crazy enameling and decorations. Jaquet Droz isn’t a name you hear in the W.O.E. sphere often. The brand has never once been mentioned on this site before, and they certainly don’t fit in with the “Watches of Espionage” crop of brands. As usual, there are layers to the story. But first, let’s look at the watches from brands we do know something about: Doxa and Rolex. While Doxa has been loosely associated with SEALAB and Navy Divers in the past, the discovery of this document adds clarity to the brand’s official position as a US Navy-issued watch during the SEALAB experiments. Digging deeper into the Doxa watches on the list, the brand’s serial numbering convention has been well documented by MKWS, a Doxa expert on Watchuseek. MKWS posits that Doxa introduced a 7-digit system where the first two numbers correspond to the year of production. In the case of all the models issued to SEALAB, that number is 66, which would suggest they were produced in ‘66, at least in theory. Officially released in 1967, there are only a few other examples of Doxa Sub 300 models from 1966, meaning the US Navy was among the earliest adopters of the brand. If that’s not an endorsement for a new-to-market dive watch, especially when Navy Divers already had access to Rolex and Tudor Submariners, I’m not sure what is. A Doxa Sub 300 from 1967. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) Interestingly, the only Rolex serial number listed also registers as being produced in ‘66 (Rolex serial numbers of that era aren’t an exact science, but can be traced to an approximate year of production). This all checks out, as the gearing up for SEALAB III would have taken place during this time. SEALAB II had been a successful mission in ‘65, and SEALAB III took some time due to engineering requirements and modifications that allowed the habitat to go significantly deeper than the previous two missions, 610 feet as opposed to 205 feet for SEALAB II and 192 feet for SEALAB I. The Vietnam War also put pressure on budgets for such a novel and costly project. Bob Barth (right) wearing his Rolex Submariner 5512, one of many Rolex Submariners used on the SEALAB missions. Much of the equipment and material—including watches—for the final SEALAB program was likely carried over from SEALAB I and II. After Doxa, the second most present brand appearing in the logs was Rolex, and the Crown had certainly been ever-present in underwater exploration for nearly a decade at the commencement of SEALAB III. Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to have dived on all three SEALAB missions, was reportedly instrumental in developing the Rolex Sea Dweller. This SEALAB III Rolex Submariner is not on our list but was owned by Leo Gies and sold by Bonhams in 2015. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Barth dove with his Rolex Submariner on SEALAB I and II, so it’s no surprise to see several Submariners listed in the SEALAB III records. Another Rolex Submariner was issued to Leo Gies who is recorded on our list as having received a Doxa. Gies’s Submariner—which was sold by Bonhams on behalf of the Gies family in 2015—was engraved “SEALAB III” on the back, which makes its absence from our list all the more interesting. Maybe there is another handwritten log out there. Our research continues. We’ll do another Dispatch on the role of Rolex in US Navy Undersea Research, but for now, let’s continue by discussing the role played by Doxa in the dive watch landscape of the late 1960s. Doxa & Diving In The 1960s Georges Ducommun founded Doxa in 1899, and the company quickly developed a reputation for producing a broad range of dress and sport watches—but the brand will always be best remembered for its contributions to the world of undersea timekeeping. In the 1960s, Doxa was one of the front-runners when it came to producing watches specifically for professional diving applications. The “skin diver” category of watches was well established, with sporty watches suitable for recreational water activity. These came out of the recreational diving boom of the late ‘50s, but as diving equipment became more technologically advanced, so did the need for a watch that could handle significant depth and pressure, but more importantly, remain legible in murky water. This is where Doxa’s signature design element surfaced; the company found that a specific hue of orange was most visible underwater. The bright orange “Professional” dial became their calling card. Legendary oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau wearing a Doxa Sub 300T “Sharkhunter”. The Sub 300 and later 300T models emerged from Doxa’s design and field studies and quickly became a popular diving watch for professionals—the intended target segment, and the military alike. The Swiss Armed Forces purchased and issued this model to Swiss combat divers in approximately 1970. Bolstered by its inclusion in Clive Cussler’s thriller novels, the orange dial and “beads-of-rice” bracelet have become a common sight in recreational and military dive communities ever since. The model also became popular because it was championed by none other than French oceanographer Jacques Costeau. Doxa & The US Navy A Navy Experimental Diving Unit photo from the early 1970s shows a Doxa Sub 300T Professional in use. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) With a better grasp of the brands and watches on the list, our next step was to track down and speak with the surviving aquanauts, one of whom provided a bombshell about the written log’s author. When we reached out to aquanaut Richard “Blackie” Blackburn, he took one look at the log and confirmed that it was the handwriting of none other than Bob Barth, the Bob Barth who helped create the Sea-Dweller, pioneering the use of a helium escape valve in watches in the process. Barth was also, according to Blackburn, the man who kept track of where all the Navy’s Doxa Sub models and other watches were going. Unfortunately, Barth passed in 2020, so we weren’t going to be able to ask him directly about the log, but our research carried on. It’s also important to note there is no mention of the Doxa Conquistador in our log, which is a specific version of the 300T equipped with a helium escape valve. For more on the rarest Doxa Sub variant, check out Perezcope’s research on Doxa’s role in developing the helium escape valve. Given SEALAB was a saturation diving experiment—the one environment where you need the valve—it would have made sense for Doxa to have sent over the Conquistador, but we found no definitive evidence of this being the case. There are numerous examples of Doxa Sub models being used by Navy Divers, but their role in SEALAB hasn’t been confirmed until now. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) The next step was taking stock of exactly what was issued using the records and then matching those serial numbers with the watches on the wrists of aquanauts, if possible. It was time for the detective work. While many have passed—SEALAB III took place 55 years ago—five of the aquanauts listed in the log as the recipients of Doxa watches are still alive today. We started by tracking down their contact info and cold-sending emails to these legends of undersea exploration. Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Taken while working on an oil spill in California after leaving the Navy, this photo shows Richard Blackburn’s Rolex GMT-Master, a gift from Bob Barth upon his retirement. Whether or not Blackburn ever received a Doxa remains a mystery. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) When I sent an email to Richard “Blackie” Blackburn with my number in the signature, my phone rang about two minutes later. After identifying the handwriting on the log as that of Bob Barth, Blackie informed me he had no recollection of ever being issued a Doxa. But, he said it wasn’t that unusual to see his name on the log, describing Barth’s issue process for watches as being as casual as “trading a cup of coffee” for a watch in certain instances before noting the transaction in his log with whatever name and number moved him at the time. Years later, Barth made up for it, gifting Blackburn a Rolex GMT-Master with his name and “SEALAB III” engraved on the caseback, a watch that he lost to a shady watch repairman years later. Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Cyril Lafferty during SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: Shared By Perezcope) Because of a photo circulating the web showing the former Royal Navy officer wearing a Doxa, I felt confident Cyril Lafferty, who was loaned to the US Navy SEALAB project by Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, might have the goods. While Mr. Lafferty confirmed he is the man in the photo wearing a Doxa, he said he had no recollection of being issued a Doxa watch or any other by the US Navy. He did remember being issued a Rolex or Omega by the Royal Navy, however. Later serving as the captain of the Royal Navy’s only deep-diving research vessel, HMS Reclaim, Lafferty went on to pioneer hyperbaric treatment techniques for multiple sclerosis. Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Then-LCDR Osborn preparing for a dive in 1968. (Photo Credit: Jim Osborn) In an email exchange with retired Captain Osborn, he confirmed he was issued a Doxa watch and wore it for all of the years he was an active Navy Diver before making the change to a Seiko in 1983, a gift from his wife when he retired from the Navy. Years later, Osborn sold the Doxa and a personal Rolex to a jeweler, saying, “The cash went into my pocket and I never gave it a second thought.” We may not have the watch or its serial number, but this is a second piece of evidence—after the Laffery photo—supporting the issue log we found. Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies, Lieutenant Commander, USN While I failed to contact LCDR Gies via email, the salty old Naval officer was kind enough to give me a call one Friday morning. Despite the passing of some five and half decades, Gies is razor sharp and remembered being issued a Rolex dive watch before receiving the Doxa when he joined the SEALAB III program. Sadly, the Doxa is no longer in his possession. After leaving the Doxa with a watchmaker in the 1970s, Mr. Gies explained he never saw it again, thinking it was perhaps sold under dubious circumstances. It’s the kind of thing that could break a watch enthusiast’s heart, but for Gies, another lost diving tool wasn’t a huge deal then or now. In any case, Gies’s recollection serves as another hard firsthand link confirming the US Navy’s issue of Doxa watches during SEALAB III. Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN I met Omar Moore in 2022 at a SEALAB reunion. He was wearing a Navy-issued Doxa T-graph, the stuff of legend. The hardest to track down was ironically the only aquanaut from the list I have met in person, Keith “Omar” Moore. On the very trip where I discovered the issue log in question, I also attended 2022’s SEALAB reunion. Moore attended wearing the impeccable example of a Doxa T-Graph photographed above, a watch he says was also issued to him by the Navy in 1968, before its commercial introduction in 1969. Could one of the serial numbers on this list belong to Moore’s T-Graph? After several unanswered emails, I asked a couple of the other aquanauts I connected with to vouch for me to Moore. 1968 photo of Omar Moore showing the incredible amount of gear worn by divers training for SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: US Navy) It did the trick. One morning a few days later, the phone rang. Moore informed me he was indeed issued a Doxa on one of the days listed in our note. He remembered Bob Barth setting up a small folding table not unlike a bake sale where SEALAB III divers and support staff could go and make an argument for why they should be issued a watch. Moore’s rapport with Barth was good, and Moore distinctly remembered Barth throwing him his brand new Searambler dial Doxa in its box from “across the room”. Where Barth got the watches from is unclear, but it is at least possible Doxa sent the watches to Barth directly or in the care of Barth because of his status as one of the “celebrity” aquanauts along with Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter. In any case, a few months later, Barth gave Moore another Doxa, this time the then-pre-production T-Graph chronograph. Moore remembered using both extensively in training dives and while supporting the construction and installation of the SEALAB III at no less than 610 feet of seawater off the coast of California’s San Clemente Island. “Mr. Moore, can I take a photo of your watch?” “Sure, man, whatever”. Unfortunately, when I was finally able to confirm the serial numbers of  Moore’s Doxa, both of which he still has, neither matched the handwritten log. Here are the numbers as read (and confirmed) from Moore’s Doxa watches: Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph - Serial: 6675653 Doxa Sub 300 Searambler - Serial: 717923 How the documented serial numbers manage to differ from Moore’s actual watches is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the recordkeeping on Barth’s part was simply not great—a theory Moore seconded—or the names and numbers had become mixed up as could easily happen with any piece of diving equipment. The idea that the first two numbers of a Doxa serial number indicate the year is also not watertight at this point as we are pretty sure the T-Graph wasn’t around in 1966 when the Doxa Sub itself was in its infancy. There are other examples of vintage T-Graphs with “66” as the beginning of the serial number, so I believe Moore’s example to be correct. Omar Moore’s incredible Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph. While it isn’t the smoking gun I was hoping for—a perfect match between the serial numbers on the handwritten log and the caseback of a Doxa Sub owned by a surviving Aquanaut—we’ve done more than enough to prove the role played by Doxa during SEALAB III and after, serving as an intriguing addition to the annals of dive and military watch history. Of course, the mission to record these stories for posterity is never over, so let’s finish with a closer look at the role played potentially by Jaquet Droz during SEALAB III. Though the log lists Moore as the recipient of a “JK Droz”, he has no memory of the watch. The plot thickens… An Unexpected Contender Jaquet Droz produced dozens of dive watches during the 1960s and 70s. Could some of them have been used on SEALAB III? The records indicate that several “JK Droz” watches were also issued alongside the Doxa models. If that sounds familiar, that’s because it sounds like the modern luxury brand “Jaquet Droz” that produces intricate automaton watches. And there is indeed a connection—but let’s get it straight—aquanauts were not wearing complicated watches featuring mechanical butterflies and singing birds worth tens of thousands of dollars during SEALAB III. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a prolific watchmaker and automaton producer in the 1700s based in the Swiss city of Neuchatel. His name looms large in the Swiss Jura watchmaking region, and that makes it the perfect borrowed name for a brand—or many. Throughout the years, a few brands have resurrected the Jaquet Droz name to capitalize on his fame and imply a quality product, but many of these have a tenuous connection at best. They all originated in the same area of Switzerland, but that’s about it. It’s next to impossible to know for sure, but there are a few watch sightings in SEALAB archives that could be Jaquet Droz. The "JK Droz" watches that were issued have yet to be spotted. They could well be one of the ones pictured above or below, but we have no conclusive evidence. Given the timeframe and the role of the watch, it makes sense that the watch came from Jaquet Droz SA registered by Dr. Charles-Edouard Virchaux in 1964. The name was used to brand watches in the “Coopérative” that he ran. The Coopérative was essentially an OEM manufacturer that produced what were known as “catalog watches” that could be branded by any number of clients. (Photo Credit: Naval Undersea Museum) His in-house brand became known as Jaquet Droz, and they produced watches that looked similar to watches from a number of popular tool watch brands at the time. In the photo above, the “C” case might appear at first glance to be an Aquastar—and it may well be—but indeed Jaquet Droz also produced models resembling this design. Since the logs indicate that a few “JK Droz” watches were issued, this may be one, possibly even a standard skin diver whose bezel fell off. We may never know, but with period ads boasting that there were 1000 distinct models available, the possibility is there. Jaquet Droz might not get named along with the usual undersea living and exploration watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but that’s just it—the story is constantly being written. With these documents, two new brands are imbued with the lore of the United States Navy’s SEALAB program. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch  

SpecOps, Spies, & Military Watches In Movies Watches play a significant role in films, and an accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear. This is especially true in movies focusing on the military and intelligence. Whether we’re talking about mercenaries, arms dealers, CIA Officers, or Navy SEALs, a thoughtfully selected timepiece can complement a fictional character, lending a sense of credibility and bridging the gap between reality and Hollywood—especially for those in the know. Watches in popular films are also influential. Believe it or not, we know plenty of real spies and operators whose watch choices were influenced by movies. Take for example the Omega Seamaster and its connection to James Bond. Even though Omega pays big bucks to be the watch of choice for 007, the Seamaster has still become a go-to option for real-life intelligence officers, a classic case of life imitating art and vice versa. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube channel, we discuss some of the most accurate and intriguing depictions of watches in movies relevant to our community. Enjoy episode six of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

New Omega & Tudor Watches For Military Pilots, Exploding Pagers, Stolen Astronaut Watch Recovered, & Even More Watch Crime  By Benjamin Lowry The Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, is a brief discussion of the preceding month’s watch industry news and current events related to the W.O.E. community. Based on feedback, we will ensure each story directly relates to Watches of Espionage and is not just a regurgitation of watch news you can get elsewhere. If you’re here looking for a hot take on the new Patek Philippe x Minecraft collab, you have come to the wrong place. Before we don our costumes and head out the door for Trick or Treat, this past month provided no shortage of intriguing W.O.E. stories, more watch-related crime, and even some explosive international espionage. To start, we have a rare Omega “unit watch” produced for a specialized aviation unit, once again showing the impact watches from within our community can have on the broader watch industry. Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified “Unit Watch” The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified in action. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Thanks to a few cell phone photos from Navy SEALs, more widespread coverage of Danish King Frederik’s Frømandskorpset Omega Seamaster Diver 300, and most prominently, a watch worn by a member of former President Trump’s protective detail during his assassination attempt, the cat is very much out of the bag when it comes to Omega’s formerly secretive unit watch program. However, thus far, we’ve largely seen the Seamaster as the watch of choice for Omega’s customized military projects, that is until the leak and later confirmation of a novel variant of the Speedmaster available only to US Military pilots and navigators. The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified can be ordered by qualified US military pilots and aircrew and is available with a range of different case back insignia. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Most of the details surrounding the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified come from a military pilot active on Omega Forums, including an insane action shot of the watch in the cockpit juxtaposed against the edge of the Earth’s atmosphere—very cool. In contrast to the commercially available Speedy variants, the Flight Qualified offers up a color-coded display taking inspiration from Omega’s long-gone Flightmaster. According to the pilot on Omega Forums, you must be a qualified aviator, pilot, or navigator to place an order, and the watch is available with a range of different case backs to reflect specific insignia or squadrons. Our look at Omega’s unit watch program has become one of our most popular articles, and it’s great to see the brand broadening its collection of military-only offerings to include the aviation community. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT & The Marine Nationale Following up on the original Pelagos FXD of 2021, the new Pelagos FXD GMT is yet another product of Tudor’s longstanding partnership with the Marine Nationale or French Navy. But where the original FXD was developed for diving with the combat swimmers of the Commando Hubert, the new watch was allegedly designed to meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale, the MN’s aviation component. Coming from Tudor, this was a highly publicized release, and we plan to cover the watch in greater detail but will wait until we have information beyond what is already out there in press releases. At a glance, this is another cool release from Tudor that speaks directly to our community while also feeling like a great basis for future unit watches. Exploding Lebanese Pagers & The Dangers Of Connected Tech A crowd developed outside Beirut Medical Center as the injured poured in after the pager attack. (Photo Credit: Mohamed Azakir/Reuters) Expanding beyond the reach of the watch media, the preceding weeks also produced one of the more memorable and public instances of espionage in recent memory when pagers belonging to members of Hezbollah and others exploded in a coordinated fashion on September 17th. The pagers, which were developed and inserted into Hezbollah’s supply chain by Mossad, Israel’s intelligence agency, were packed with hidden explosives and designed to explode almost in unison, causing at least 37 deaths and thousands of injuries. While the use of pagers is not widespread in 2024, Hezbollah has opted for simpler tech in recent years, forgoing cell phones and other more complex wearables that are easily compromised by Israeli intelligence. The remains of exploded pagers. (Photo Credit: Getty) What does this have to do with watches? We’ve written extensively on the counterintelligence risks of smartwatches, and this attack once again demonstrates the dangers of connected technology and the lengths intelligence services are willing to go to reach their adversaries. With this attack setting a precedent, it is conceivable that a future attack could incorporate compromising smartwatches through the insertion of explosives or other means. As the attacks in Lebanon again prove, any level of connection, even the relatively simple tech involved in a pager, is more than enough for lethal effect. Spymaster Mark Zuckerberg Joins The W.O.E. Community With A Series Of Deep Cuts A Patek, two F.P. Journes, and a JLC make for one hell of a watch enthusiast starter pack. Mark Zuckerberg is arguably the greatest spymaster of the 21st Century. Monthly active users of Meta products (Facebook, Instagram, and WhatsApp) are estimated to be up to 3 billion people, approximately 37% of the world's population, a remarkable fact. Zuck knows who you are, where you are, and your deepest secrets. He wields significant political influence with the ability to curate what you see by enforcing opaque community standards. So it is no surprise that spymaster Zuck, an individual traditionally known to wear t-shirts and hoodies, has finally caved and given into the world of Watches of Espionage. We wish him the warmest welcome to our community! Zuck was also recently spotted wearing an F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Aluminium. Zuckerberg has jumped into watch collecting with both feet and a surprising amount of taste by billionaire standards, already adding a Patek Philippe reference 5236P perpetual calendar, two F.P. Journe models, and a more obscure JLC to his collection. Of course, a watch is never just a watch, and Zuckerberg is no doubt aware of the inferences people will make based on his newfound appreciation of horology. It’s not rare for someone with billions of spare dollars to get into watch collecting, but Zuck’s approach suggests he is actually a fan of real horology or at least well-advised by knowledgeable enthusiasts or collectors. FBI Recovers Stolen Space-Worn Speedmaster & Returns It To The Smithsonian Eisele wearing two Speedmasters during training for Apollo 7. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) This isn’t a new story but rather a classic from a few years back that was recently augmented with new information thanks to a FOIA document request by Jason Leopold over at Bloomberg. We all know US astronauts were issued Omega Speedmaster watches purchased directly from the Swiss brand by NASA. Once reaching the end of their service to the Space Program, most astronauts were expected to return the watches to NASA which then donated many—including a space-flown Speedy worn by Apollo 7 astronaut Donn Eisele—to the Smithsonian. Later loaned to the Instituto Geográfico Militar, a museum in Quito, Ecuador in 1988, Eisele’s Speedmaster was stolen the following year and in the wind for almost three decades, which is where it gets interesting. Smithsonian Inspector General documents detailing the return of the Eisele’s Omega Speedmaster. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) In 2017, a tipster informed the Smithsonian they believed the missing watch—which is valued at $400k—was in private hands in Texas. The Smithsonian’s Inspector General, which is a thing, contacted the FBI who then located and met with the current owner. After verifying the serial number and the watch’s authenticity, and following a few stern words from the FBI, the dubious collector agreed to return the Omega to the Smithsonian to avoid further legal ramifications. You have to love a happy ending. Surprisingly, a total of six Speedmasters used by astronauts are still missing after having been stolen while either on loan or en route to other museums, including the Speedmaster worn by Buzz Aldrin on the moon during Apollo 11. Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Sells At Auction For $1.73M Mitchell’s GMT-Master is believed to be the first worn on the Moon. (Photo Credit: RR Auction) Keeping the space theme alive, the first Rolex worn on the moon was auctioned off a few days ago, hammering for an astounding $1.73M (before buyer's premium), well above its $400k estimate. This particular GMT-Master was worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on Apollo 14, likely underneath his space suit, while his NASA-issued Speedmaster managed primary timing duties. We at W.O.E. mostly don’t care about auction results and want nothing less than to aid in driving already insane prices with any sort of media coverage, but at times, history and the often frustrating world of auction houses intersect, and Mitchell’s GMT-Master is an important piece of not only the history of space flight but also horological history. Mitchell wearing his GMT-Master during Apollo 14. As Omega’s marketing often reminds us, they are the watchmaker of manned space flight, but that isn’t to say there aren’t other players, which is particularly interesting when astronauts chose to wear Rolex watches in space in addition to their Omegas. Ours is clearly not the first generation of Use Your Tools watch enthusiasts. Having sold for well over 1.5 million dollars, this kind of thing is out of reach for virtually all of us but incredibly cool nonetheless. We may never know, but I can't help but wonder whether it was Rolex itself which purchased the watch. The Crown is no stranger to preserving its history by buying up important vintage examples. Man Robbed Of $100k Worth Of Luxury Watches In Las Vegas The scene of the crime. (Photo Credit: AP Photo) In a real-life homage to the classic 2009 film, The Hangover, a man was robbed of approximately $100,000 worth of luxury watches from Rolex and Audemars Piguet after a very long night in Las Vegas. According to the Las Vegas Review Journal, a man and his friend were approached by two women while enjoying an adult beverage at a bar at Encore Las Vegas. After a certain amount of discussion, the women suggested the men head upstairs where further vigorous interactions were intended to take place. The victim allegedly fell asleep in his room where he had been “hanging out” with one of the women before both ladies elected to leave. In what may be the least surprising piece of news this month, the sleeping victim was relieved of several luxury watches including, “...an Audemars Piguet watch with a black face and full diamonds, valued at $80,000, a Rolex Presidential watch that features a green face and full diamonds, valued at $25,000, and a Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” watch with a black face, valued at $15,000.” Bummer. The victim also sent a Zelle transaction to someone named “Nikaila” though he conveniently has no memory of who that person could possibly be or why he would have sent them money. Some mysteries aren't meant to be solved. As it happens, this story has at least one happy ending. Las Vegas casinos have a lot of cameras and both women have since been arrested after being identified in surveillance footage from the scene. We’ve spoken at length about traveling with watches, but suffice it to say you’re probably better off leaving your $100k watch collection at home when traveling to Sin City, especially if you’re hoping to make friends. And people wonder why everyone meets on Tinder these days… Final Thoughts Whether it’s a pair of watch-thirsty ladies of the night, a new Omega unit watch for aviators, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, an astronaut’s stolen Speedy, exploding pagers, or Zuck’s new watch-collecting habit, the preceding month or so offered a plethora of intriguing events relating to the W.O.E. community. We sincerely hope you guys have as much fun reading this column as we have writing it, and please be sure to share any events we failed to mention in the comments so they can be considered for next month’s SITREP. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - September

A Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re talking about the watches of terrorists, mercenaries, war criminals, or dictators, nothing is off the table. We use watches as a medium to get to the human element; they are our prism to view the world. That said, when I heard Adolf Hitler's gold reversible watch was auctioned for $1.1 million, I paused, thinking I may have found a watch too controversial for even W.O.E. to cover. As I attempted to wrap my head around the sale of Hitler’s watch, the buyer’s motivations, and the lack of traditional watch media coverage, I found myself wading into a more complicated conversation. Watches serve as mementos, objects that transcend their utilitarian value by representing history’s best and worst moments. But for collectors of historically charged timepieces, where is the line? Should anyone be comfortable buying, owning, or wearing watches associated with some of the most evil people to walk the Earth? Let’s explore. Watches, Warfare, & Swiss-Neutrality Watches are inextricably linked with warfare and many premier luxury brands owe their designs, legitimacy, and very existence to providing tools to warfighters. Iconic brands like IWC and Panerai often tout their military provenance as tools of choice for pilots and combat swimmers. But what the marketing departments (understandably) downplay is that some of those pilots wearing IWC watches were German Luftwaffe (Nazis) and Panerai’s Italian frogmen were Decima Flottiglia MAS, early amphibious commandos responsible for sinking Allied ships in WWII. The truth is complicated. Some of the most prominent Swiss brands have willingly provided custom watches to murderous dictators, including North Korean Kim Il-Sung’s Omega Constellation, Syrian President Hafez Al-Assad’s Rolex Submariner 5513, and a series of Patek Philippe models made for Libyan strongman Muammar Gaddafi. Even by conservative estimates, these men are responsible for hundreds of thousands of innocent deaths, yet their watches continue to fetch significant sums. Auction houses and dealers have a clear ideological allegiance: money. But what about the collectors buying these watches? Nazi Watches? WTF? With the above-listed issues in mind, some watches are too controversial for us to touch, most notably the watches of Nazis. In July of 2022, a watch reportedly belonging to Adolf Hitler auctioned for $1.1M at a Maryland auction house, Alexander Historical Auctions. The gold watch was reportedly manufactured by German watchmaker Andreas Huber with a movement from LeCoultre, now Jaeger-LeCoultre, and bears Hitler's initials (AH), a swastika, and the date of his appointment as Chancellor of Germany: January 30, 1933. The watch was allegedly liberated from Hitler's residence by French soldier Sergeant Robert Mignot as a “spoil of war.” The buyer? Reportedly an anonymous Jewish bidder in Europe, a detail that would not be significant if not for the fact that the man who wore this watch was responsible for the genocide of millions of Jews during World War II.  When I heard this news I cringed, why would someone want to own a watch belonging to (arguably) the most evil person to ever live? I am by no means superstitious, but I wouldn't want that thing in my house, let alone on my wrist. But the news of the auction led me down a rabbit hole of introspection on the ethical dilemmas of watch collecting. When does something controversial cross over into taboo? At what point does the preservation of history turn into the promotion of hate? It's complicated and highly subjective. Controversial Timepieces I own and wear several “controversial” timepieces including a Blackwater Breitling Emergency, a Rhodesian military-issued Roamer, and a South African Navy-issued Tudor MilSub. The Tudor Submariner and Roamer are byproducts of apartheid-era conflicts, a controversial topic by any measurement. Blackwater is one of the most controversial private military contractors and also conjures up strong emotions for many. These pieces are more than the sum of their parts, they are wearable artifacts of specific periods in time and for me indicative of historical significance rather than ideological affiliation. I believe one can own them and not condone the behavior of the original end-user (for the record I am against apartheid in South Africa).  Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 To complicate matters more, I recently considered purchasing a Rolex Submariner 5513 made for the late former President of Syria Hafez Al-Assad. President Al-Assad was responsible for numerous atrocities, including the 1982 Hama massacre when the Baathist government besieged the town of Hama for 27 days, resulting in an estimated 10,000 to 40,000 civilian deaths.  Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: HairSpring) Why would I want to own this piece? Is it really that different from Hitler's watch? Having spent much of my life living and working in the Arab world, including Syria, something about the red Arabic signature on the dial speaks to me. Of course, this desire is by no means an endorsement of the Assad regime. On the contrary, much of my time at CIA was spent working against individuals like Assad. For me, it comes down to collecting context. By default, I think we should take a nuanced understanding of history, and exploring a topic, or a watch, does not equate to endorsement of the subject. Provenance & Watches Of Notable Historical Figures Marlon Brando's GMT-Master on set for Apocalypse Now, 1979. “Provenance” is a term used by collectors and auction houses to document the history of a watch’s ownership, modifications, and service history.  Whether Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona or Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT, watches with notable provenance fetch premiums as they transcend from “just a watch” to a historical artifact. Military watches are no different and those with documented provenance to a specific individual or unit can increase the value by a multiple of two or three. When it comes to celebrities and other benign “famous people,” the inherent value is widely recognized. But when you get into the gray area of watch collecting, the “value” of provenance can vary based on one's ties to what that item represents.  My prized possession (grail watch) is a South African-issued Tudor MilSub reference 7016 from approximately 1974. While I have no ties to the Apartheid-era South African Navy, I have spent much of my life living and working in Africa and have a particular interest in Tudor MilSubs. The provenance of this watch has a greater value for me than the average collector. Similarly, Israeli Defense Force (IDF) issued Tudor 7928s likely have a greater value to one with ties to Israel whereas those opposed to Israel may view these watches with disgust. So What Type Of Person Would Buy Hitler’s Watch? My initial thought was a neo-Nazi sympathizer, a Bond villain character who wants to wear the watch in his underground lair as he pets his hairless cat. And while this may be the case, the truth, and motivations are likely more complicated.  According to at least one report from the Washington Post, the auction house president claims the watch was purchased by an “anonymous European Jewish bidder.” Is it possible that an individual spent over a million dollars on this item to remember the defeat of the Nazis? As uncomfortable as this may sound, the answer may be yes.  On the shelf in my office is a WWII-era-German (read Nazi) Eagle Claw Scabbard and Mauser-Werke Luftwaffe pistol, both war trophies brought home from the European theater by my grandfather. These items are by no means intended to honor the Nazis and to be clear as an individual and a platform we are anti-Nazi. On the contrary, these items commemorate what my grandfather and the Greatest Generation accomplished, defeating Nazi expansion in World War II. Would I purchase them at auction? No, but they do hold personal value. Watch Collecting On A Spectrum Our willingness to preserve history through the collection of timepieces occurs on a spectrum. Most are willing to buy and wear a new military-inspired watch. Even pacifists can appreciate them for their connection to the past. WWII Allied watches like the Dirty Dozen are also generally uncontroversial given the belief that the Allies were on the right side of history. But once you pass this, the value of the provenance is subjective. Auction Houses Google the name of any major auction house and you are sure to find at least one significant controversy including “fake” watches, stolen artifacts, or items of religious or cultural importance. The trade is morally complicated, and auction houses are incentivized to maximize monetary gain. The fact that Hitler's watch was sold at a relatively obscure auction house suggests that the larger auction houses passed on these items, finding them too controversial. This raises another rhetorical ethical question, is it ok for auction houses to profit off of these sales? Conclusion Would I want to own Hitler's watch? Absolutely not. Despite what is written above, I still believe this watch is a physical representation of pure evil. It belongs buried in a tomb or maybe in a museum honoring the holocaust victims. That said, collecting controversial watches should not be immediately shunned and we should have an open conversation on the ethical considerations at each level. Engaging in thoughtful discussions about the implications of collecting these items and considering their historical impact is essential for navigating this complex issue. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban

Civilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces, and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can—and probably will at some point—serve as stand-alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any other questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll do our best to answer them in a future article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I”, “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II”, and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part III”. Is it OK for civilians to wear military watches or does this qualify as “stolen valor”? (Photo Credit: Panerai) Many watch brands and references are centered around a specific narrative and culture of professionals: the Omega Speedmaster and space exploration, the Rolex Submariner and diving, and IWC’s aviation watches.  With this marketing, there comes some form of cosplaying or larping and in general, this is fine and part of the fun of the passion. I will likely never travel to space, but I like the idea of wearing a watch that has and has been designed for that purpose. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Additionally, we have covered many military-inspired brands like Bremont, Marathon, and Sangin, which are intended for use by active duty and former military members. While they maintain a strong customer base in these communities, of course not all of the customers are tier-one operators. Overall, there is no problem with this and it is by no means stolen valor. “Military-inspired” is synonymous with tough gear that is meant to be used. However, I do struggle with commercially available watches with a branch or unit insignia on the dial. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Top Gun, Marathon’s USMC GSAR, and of course Panerai’s “Navy SEAL” watches. While I still don’t think this is stolen valor as such and don’t have a problem with people wearing them, I personally would not want to wear a watch with an insignia on the dial that I have no direct connection to, i.e. a unit I did not serve in. (Photo Credit: Marathon Watch) With “unit watches,” it gets more complicated and, in my opinion, depends on the specific unit watch and how much time has elapsed since it was worn by those who earned it. In general, I think watches with a specific unit insignia on the dial or caseback should be worn by those who earned them, not those who can afford to pay the absurd premium they command at auction. Customized Tudors, Omega, Rolex, and even Breitlings have sold for well over $40,000, a remarkable number. That said, at a certain point these watches do become collectibles and it is fine to collect them. Where that line is, is highly subjective. What was your go-to EDC bag when you were at CIA? W.O.E. in the Middle East, Sandstorm EDC bag. As a Case Officer operating overseas, your job is to recruit spies and steal secrets. This calling requires frequent travel and operational activity in a range of environments, from diplomatic functions in European capitals to dark alleys in war-torn countries. A good EDC bag should support your persona (cover) and not immediately peg you as an American. This obviously rules out the tacti-cool bag with Velcro for your Punisher morale patch. While I was at CIA, I relied on “issued backpacks” that were purchased overseas and modified by CIA as well as man purses I acquired myself, most notably the Canvas Andrew Work Bag from Sandstorm, Kenya, a bag I still use regularly today. Sandstorm Kenya The fictitious representation of “Q” in James Bond is largely a figment of Hollywood imagination, but gear and spy gadgets have been an integral part of espionage since the early days of the Office of Strategic Services.  Prior to an overseas assignment, CIA Case Officers visit an obscure warehouse outside of Washington D.C. and are issued a range of gear from disguises and backpacks. For most assignments, the gear is not as exciting as it sounds, but there are some deep disguises available, as made famous by former Chief of Disguise for CIA, Jonna Mendez. Case Officer’s EDC The key for EDC bags at CIA is to use something that won’t make you stick out as an American, i.e. the ubiquitous North Face and Patagonia backpack. I spent much of my overseas time living and working in Africa and fell in love with a boutique manufacturer called Sandstorm, which makes canvas and leather bags out of repurposed safari tent material. The bags are durable and classy, at home in the back of a dusty Land Cruiser just as much as a first-class lounge in Amsterdam. They aren’t cheap, but nothing good is. If you are really trying to blend in, or at least not stick out, my advice is to buy clothing and bags locally, or at least outside of the United States or your home country. Save the tacti-cool bags for range day and family trips to Chucky Cheese.  Many microbrands you cover use watches or parts made in China, is this ok? I’m a red-blooded American and in an ideal world, all tools would be made in America, watches made in Switzerland, and Whiskey distilled in Tennessee. That said, with the decline in American/British manufacturing and watchmaking, the reality is there are some great watches (and tools) that are designed in the US/UK, but manufactured in China and East Asia. In my opinion, many of these watches offer great value for the customer and I own some of them. Elliot Brown Holton on Glomar Explorer strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Obviously, there is a stigma with “Made in China” and in some ways, this is warranted but the fact is that the country, and the region in general, has specialized in high-quality manufacturing at a cost-effective price. The computer I am writing this on, and the device you are reading this on, are made in China. There has been an effort to “reshore” manufacturing and watchmaking back to the United States, but much of these efforts have come up lacking, with customer complaints about price and quality control. The key here is transparency. Designed/assembled/sewn in the USA can mean very different things and many manufacturers work to obscure the origin of products with clever language. I’m not saying that brands should lead with “Made in China,” or stamp the case back, but they should be at least open about it. (Photo Credit: Atelier DE GRIFF) There is a lot of smoke and mirrors in the watch and EDC industry and even “Swiss-made” means that the watch is assembled and tested in Switzerland but not that all the parts originate there. Legally, “Swiss Made” means “60% of production costs are generated in Switzerland, and at least 50% by value of all components is Swiss-made”, which gives a lot of wiggle room. While I won’t dime them out here, there are plenty of “Swiss watches” with significant inputs from China. When you’re traveling abroad as a civilian with an Agency background, what is your EDC? Case Officer’s EDC, just the essentials. First of all, I think people put way too much thought into “Every Day Carry” and not enough into mindset, training, and physical fitness. I am a minimalist and generally carry the same thing I did at the Agency, no crazy whizzbang tactical tools, just the essentials: pen and paper, folding knife, over $300 in cash, passport, tourniquets, and a Surefire Defender flashlight. An external battery is a necessity also. Check out a past Dispatch on “CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC” for more on my reasoning and experience with these tools. My personal EDC hasn't changed much in two decades and it likely won't change anytime soon. Assuming I can’t afford the real thing, how do you feel about homage watches as opposed to  “fake” or “replica” watches? We wrote an article about the counterfeit watch industry (Read HERE) and several people asked what my thoughts are on “homage” watches like a Seiko modified to look like a Rolex Submariner or GMT. I don’t necessarily have a problem with these, but I would never buy one personally. It's hard for me to determine where the line between homage and fake is and I wouldn’t someone to spot me from across the room thinking I am wearing a Rolex, then come to find out it's a homage. That said, there are some “homage brands” like Tornek-Rayville, Benrus, and Vertex, that essentially brought these brands back to life, and that is something I can get behind (I own a Tornek and love it). (Photo Credit: Modbrand) Congrats on your first video and the launch of the W.O.E. YouTube channel. How did you come up with this unique format? Our core competency at W.O.E. is storytelling, offering readers/viewers insight into our community through the prism of watches. The goal is to inform and entertain and while long-form articles (ie the W.O.E. Dispatch) are our preferred medium, the sad fact is that most people don’t read more than a couple paragraphs, preferring to take in bite-sized chunks of engaging video and photographic content. We knew video was inevitable and have been working on this for over a year. The school solution in launching a YouTube channel is to have an influencer sit in front of a ring light and offer spicy clickbait takes and “Top 10 lists” of the best watches. At W.O.E. we always aim to do something different so we decided to take the concept of our Dispatch articles and convert them into mini-episodes. This concept will evolve as we gain more resources. We have been overwhelmed with the response and plan to continue to release an episode every 2 weeks through the end of the year. Check out our first four videos HERE. What’s the best spy movie from a former Case Officer’s point of view? I like thrillers/spy movies as much as the next guy. Jason Bourne, James Bond, and Red Sparrow are all fun and entertaining experiences, but they are far from the reality of true espionage work which is months of hard work and lots of writing, punctuated by exciting moments and “cool” operations. The fact is most intelligence work is boring and if the movies were accurate . . . they wouldn’t be that interesting. Spy Game is one of my favorite movies and is entertaining, but also has threads of truth, particularly the training and mentorship of Tom Bishop, played by Brad Pitt. It’s still Hollywood, but a great watch, nonetheless. Argo and Charlie Wilson's War are interesting looks at historic CIA operations, however, I would recommend starting with the books. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Good Shepherd capture the methodical aspect of the wilderness of mirrors of the spy world, but also aren’t as exciting as the Bourne series. The Recruit is an interesting look at the training pipeline at “The Farm” and one that many from my generation watched multiple times prior to training. (Photo Credit: Black Hawk Down) Movies like Zero Dark Thirty and Black Hawk Down are less historically accurate, but interesting watches nonetheless. Regardless, if you want to learn about these events and what really happened, I would recommend reading the books first. Our W.O.E. Reading List (read HERE) is a great place to start. Last but certainly not least, Spies Like Us is a comedy with zero historical accuracy but does have a real cult following in CIA. “Doctor” can be heard in just about every CIA Station around the globe. Don’t sleep on it. If I’m down to two or three watches that all meet my criteria and price range, how do I decide? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) One of the most common questions I get is people looking for help trying to decide between two or three watches they want to buy. Sometimes they are very different—like a Tudor FXD and a Breitling Aerospace—and sometimes they are similar references from the same brand. The answer is always the same, go with your gut. Continue to watch videos and read about the watches, but most importantly try them on at the store or borrow one from your watch friends. This is such a personal decision and nothing I say should impact your choice. Ultimately, go with your gut, and your budget.  Is there any watch that’s a grail for you, something you’d trade your entire collection for? W.O.E.’s South African-issued Tudor Submariner reference 7016. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Yes, no. A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it. Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It’s more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Pictured above is my South African-issued Tudor Submariner ref 7016 from approximately 1974, which is (was?) my grail watch. I acquired this piece from Ross Povey last year and it is my “prized possession,” I will never sell it. A Rolex Milsub is another grail for me, but I wouldn’t trade my entire collection for one. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Moving forward, there are plenty of watches I would love to acquire including a Rolex MilSub and an Israeli-issued Shayetet 13 Tudor Sub 7928. That said, there is nothing I would trade my entire collection for. Many of my watches have personal value that transcends monetary value. The Breitling Aerospace I received from King Abdullah of Jordan (Read HERE) is probably worth a few thousand on the market, but to me, it is priceless. I have too many memories with that piece to let it go.    How do I buy a watch for my wife? (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) This is a tricky one. I have purchased Mrs. W.O.E. several watches including a Cartier Tank, Black Bay 58, and a Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse. Despite my best efforts to woo her into the world of watch nerds, she couldn't care less. The fact is that women have more competition for their attention (and money) than men. While this is a generalization I am probably going to catch some smoke for, women are bombarded by messaging for and tend to covet handbags, shoes, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces whereas men traditionally have fewer personal items to consider. The watch industry has been desperate to acquire women customers and has made some headway, but it's still heavily tilted toward men. My advice is simple, bring your significant other to a watch store to try on a range of watches. If something speaks to them, then follow that thread. If not, don’t push it.    What is your favorite strap and why? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) When it comes to W.O.E. products, I am our first customer and if it's not something I would use, then it doesn’t get made. That said, each of our product lines is very discrete and developed for different use cases. Just because you like one of our straps doesn’t mean you will like them all. The Glomar Explorer probably gets the most wrist time, particularly in warmer months. It’s such a versatile strap and works particularly well with both the Blue and Black FXDs, but also virtually any tool watch. With the new tightened strap keeper, there is no chance it is coming off your wrist.  Sizing can greatly vary on these straps, depending on the watch and your wrist size. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Second, I am a big fan of leather on field watches and divers and wear the Jedburgh, particularly on my older vintage pieces and watches like the Arabic Seiko.  From the start, it is a very comfortable strap with a low profile. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Lastly, I love all of our Five Eyes straps and wear them regularly. But when it comes to single-pass straps, I often defer to our past collaborations with Z.A. Straps and recently have been wearing the W.O.E. - Z.A. Straps a lot. They are expensive, there is no way to sugarcoat that, but the quality of the hardware and fabric are night and day in my opinion. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The main point here is to find a strap that works for you.  There are so many variables in watches, wrist size, and preferences, that there is no one size fits all. I encourage you to read the (over 1,000) reviews on each product page and see what other people's experiences have been. Remember, it’s much easier to buy and try a lot of different straps than it is with watches… What current Rolex model family would you buy assuming no wait list and cost isn’t an issue? I am a big fan of Rolex, particularly vintage and neo-vintage Submariners and GMTs. I am a simple man and give me any Sub or GMT with an aluminum bezel and drilled lug holes and I will be happy. I have “expressed interest” in the new Black/Gray Rolex GMT Master II, and would love to get one, but I am not losing sleep over it. That said, the one piece I would kill for (not actually) is the Titanium Yachtmaster. However, these pieces are almost impossible to get and I am not willing to pay the excessive premium on the secondary market or play silly games with ADs to get one. I am ok with that. Watch buying advice? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Still, the most common question we get is on watch buying advice from newbies and experts alike. While the W.O.E. platform is geared towards telling stories from our community, we have considerable resources to answer these questions.  Please check out the following articles if you are new to the world of watches. Advice for Buying a Watch Best Watches Under $5,000 - Ask the Experts Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts Best Military Watches If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. – This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.