A Former CIA Case Officer Dissects How To Penetrate Rolex SA We are now one week out from Watches and Wonders, the annual trade show in Geneva, Switzerland, where many of the premier luxury watch brands debut their latest designs. W&W is a masterclass in marketing, with weeks of blogs and legacy media speculating on the new releases, a dramatic and highly choreographed reveal, followed by groaning and analysis for the weeks to follow. While brands from Patek Philippe and H. Moser & Cie. to IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer are present, at the center of all the attention is one brand: Rolex. Last week, we discussed the role of private intelligence and this week we want to take it a step further and look at how commercial espionage actually works. Like many of our articles, this is about watches and the watch industry, but it's really about much more than that. Leaning into my training and experience as an intelligence officer, this is how I would penetrate Rolex SA, the most secretive and powerful watch company in the world. “Leaked” photos of Rolex new releases planned for 2025. Who Would Want To Know? The line between Business Intelligence and Corporate Espionage is blurred and often open to interpretation. “Market research,” including hiring third-party “researchers” is generally accepted. But there is a line and to be clear, corporate espionage is not something we support and would never do ourselves, but it does happen. The Swiss watch industry is a prime target, given the money invested in Research and Development over the past century. These are “trade secrets,” and if they are stolen it could result in significant monetary damage to Rolex, or any other company. Business Intelligence: The process of collecting, analyzing, and presenting business data to support informed decision-making, commonly used in all industries. Corporate Espionage: The theft of a company's confidential information for financial gain. Corporate espionage recently made the news when Bernard Squarcini, a former French intel chief, was convicted of using public funds to spy on individuals for LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate. (Photo Credit: The Guardian) Controlling over 30% of the Swiss watch market with an estimated 11 billion dollars in annual revenue, Rolex has the biggest target on its back.  Rival brands are the potential beneficiaries of the intellectual property collected from corporate espionage, but also criminal networks and states. The counterfeit watch industry is also a multibillion-dollar industry, with the vast majority of the counterfeit watches originating in China where it appears as though the government at least tacitly supports these criminal endeavors. It’s not a stretch that a nation-state would support espionage against Rolex with the goal of benefiting their industry, this IP theft regularly happens in other sectors. Is Rolex A Hard Target? Rolex headquarters in Geneva is known as an impenetrable fortress for watch media. (Photo Credit: Rolex) In the intelligence community, a “hard target” is a country or organization that is particularly difficult to collect intelligence on due to strong counterintelligence measures, limited access, or high operational security. The intelligence services of Iran, Russia, China, and North Korea are generally considered hard targets but also non-state actors like Hezbollah. The Swiss watch industry is notoriously secretive, with some making the comparison to CIA and other intelligence agencies. There is some truth to it, it is a closed system, and for good reasons. As the leader in the industry, Rolex has spent billions developing proprietary technology, brand value, and integrating their supply chain.   In one of the few accounts of visiting all four of the Rolex manufacturing facilities, Hodinkee described some of the security features, including iris scanners for controlled access, large vaults, and the prohibition of cell phones, all features associated with secure government facilities. While I would not go as far as to say it rivals a nation-state in counterintelligence capabilities, from a corporate standpoint it is probably as “hard” as it gets. Open Source (OSINT) OSINT: The process of collecting and analyzing publicly available information from various sources to generate insights. (Photo Credit: Department of Defense) OSINT is arguably one of the most effective tools in modern intelligence collection and for any collection initiative, it is the first step. Why allocate clandestine resources when something is publicly available? To a certain extent, watch media already does this. Morgan Stanley and Luxeconsult produce an annual report on the Swiss watch industry with detailed assessments of revenue based on publicly available data. Internet watch sleuths will take it a step further and triage trademarks and patents for hints of what's to come.   In 2023 Rolex trademarked the “Land-Dweller” and according to our friend and expert watch spotter Nick Gould AKA @niccoloy Rolex filed a patent in 2022 for a red and black ceramic bezel, both of which could indicate future releases. “Rolex patent filed in 2022, and just published at the end of last month. The Crown finally found a way to do a red and black ceramic bezel. It seems this combination of colours is difficult to achieve.” - Nick Gould AKA @niccoloy on Instagram While examining trademark data can provide insight and fuel speculation, most still take the “we’ll see” approach as they are far from definitive. But it does provide one thread or hypothesis that other forms of collection can potentially corroborate. Alternative Data Sets Open-source collection can go much deeper than trolling government databases. Research firm Bellingcat has made a name for itself by analyzing alternative datasets with an impressive track record at investigating intelligence services, human rights abuses, and the criminal underworld. Hunting the Hunters: How We Identified Navalny's FSB Stalkers (Photo Credit: Bellingcat) Rolex is famed for its vertical integration, relying on only a few outside manufacturers, but it is a multinational company, and some components, packaging, and raw materials must be sourced on the open market.  Equally important are the downstream retail operations. Even with the 2023 acquisition of major watch retailer Bucherer, these retailers are largely outside the Rolex umbrella. A deeper dive into these relationships, invoices, and international shipping manifests can further inform the assessment of organizational structure, supply chain, and even future releases.   While Rolex is believed to have its own foundry, a large shipment of titanium from a broker in South Africa may indicate an expansion of the titanium offering from just the Yacht-Master which was released in 2024.  The same could be said for other raw inputs used for the ceramic bezels or gem-set pieces. While these international shipping manifests are not always easily accessible, with the right know-how and determination, they can often be accessed. Rolex manufacturing facility in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland. Analyzing the capacity and fullness of parking lots via commercially available satellite imagery can lead to valuable information. Full parking lots on a weekend could indicate an increase in working hours and production schedules. Of note, according to Google Street View, this parking lot has been replaced and covered. (Photo Credit: Google) Human Intelligence (HUMINT) - Recruiting A Clandestine Source inside Rolex. Despite all the technical capabilities, having a human source/penetration with direct knowledge of the collection requirements, i.e. the future Rolex models, is the ultimate goal of any intelligence operation. Anyone who works directly for Rolex is a potential target, but finding someone with placement and access who is willing to divulge secrets is crucial. From an offensive intelligence collection perspective, the “insider threat” is arguably the greatest vulnerability.    “You start working at Rolex and you stay there. It’s a loyalty thing but it’s also an incentive thing. I think they pay very well, great benefits, great perks… This works really well for their secrecy.”  - Acquired Podcast Little is actually known about the structure and inner workings of Rolex.  There is no public organizational chart and even an informed assessment about who would actually know about the Watches and Wonders releases in advance is informed speculation.   A watchmaking trainee at Lilitz, a watchmaking school in Pennsylvania that was built and funded by Rolex. (Photo Credit: Rolex Training) According to the recent Acquired podcast, Rolex has approximately 16,000 employees, with 9,000 of those residing in Switzerland. A LinkedIn query shows 8,388 employees and “associated members” with 4,555 residing in Switzerland.  If you dive deeper and segment the employees, 574 live and work in Biel/Bienne where the cases are manufactured, and you can do the same with the various Rolex entities. The first step is to build an organizational chart to better understand the type of people who work at Rolex. This is your target list. Rolex employees in Switzerland are broken down by geographic area and education. (Photo Credit: LinkedIn) The fact that someone is on LinkedIn at a minimum suggests they are comfortable with public association with Rolex and also makes them more likely to engage externally, maybe even open to exploring other job opportunities. Those who work in watchmaking, watch design, research, and development are obvious targets, but also individuals with access to IT infrastructure could prove a windfall.   Access & Placement In Human Intelligence (HUMINT) placement and access to information is crucial. In an ideal world, you would recruit someone with direct access to the senior level “plans and intentions,” which in the case of Rolex is the CEO. That said, you really don’t know who has access to what until you start talking to people. While new releases are likely a compartmented group, it has to be in the hundreds to design and manufacture new watches. “Open To Work” - The Approach LinkedIn’s “Open To Work” banner is a sign of a potentially exploitable individual within an organization. Linkedin is a professional networking platform owned by Microsoft and a valuable tool for intelligence services. According to the New York Times, Chinese intelligence services have used this platform to recruit spies abroad, including in the United States. To expedite the process and remove myself from the operational act, I would hire a recruitment service firm to conduct the initial outreach to Rolex employees, telling them that an unspecified “consultant” is interested in hiring consultants with knowledge of the Swiss watch industry. Those with “Open for Work” on their profile are priority number one, but given the number of employees at Rolex, a broad initial outreach is necessary.   A recent patent for a Rolex “Alignable Screw Down Crown”. (Photo Credit: Unpolished Watches) Designers, engineers, and scientists are notoriously naive to their value and often eager to talk about their creations and work. Business types are generally eager for other opportunities and career progression, often tempted by outside employment opportunities. With enough “shots on goal,” statistically some will respond positively. Any Rolex employee could be a potential point of exploitation, but someone working within a technical or marketing role could be best. (Photo Credit: Rolex Training) After an initial triage of the resumes received, I would compile them and make an informed assessment of who has access to the information of interest, in this case, the Watches and Wonders releases, and invite them for a remote “interview,” to further assess their access and willingness to disclose sensitive information. Over time, the full-time position would disappear but another opportunity as a “part-time consultant” would appear. The individual could remain at their place of employment, and “consult” on the Swiss watch industry on the side. The target would then transition to a “source,” and be responsive to tasking, i.e. answering specific questions. Student Seeding Operation École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, Rolex’s primary source university for new hires. (Photo Credit: EPFL) The largest cohort of known Rolex employees studied engineering at École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, a public research university in Lausanne, Switzerland, followed by the University of Geneva. Depending on the timeline, you could also consider recruiting a student and “feeding them” into Rolex, another method used by Chinese and other intelligence services. This option represents the long game but is also an effective methodology that does not require developing a source who may already have loyalties to the Rolex organization. Conclusion Rolex is a sophisticated organization that no doubt spends considerable money on both physical security and counterintelligence procedures. That said, it is a big organization, and every organization is vulnerable to exploitation, with the “insider threat” often being the greatest. This article is about the Swiss watch industry in particular, we are “watches of espionage” after all, but really, it is about more than that. Any industry that has leaders will be subject to targeting by hostile actors. This vintage Speedmaster was sold at auction for over $3M after having been faked with insider help and vintage components from Omega’s heritage department. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) While this may seem farfetched, there is a precedent for this type of compromise in the Swiss watch industry. In 2021, insiders at Omega allegedly conspired with outsiders to compile a fake Speedmaster using parts from the Omega archives, with the watch ultimately selling for over $3 million at auction.   While this may come as a surprise to many in the watch community, it is something at least some at Rolex are keenly aware of. A further review of LinkedIn data shows that the Director of Security at Rolex USA is a former FBI Special Agent, and we can assume he has counterparts in Switzerland and around the globe. Hopefully, Rolex leadership is listening to them and not sidelined as paranoid “formers.”   To be very clear, this is just an intellectual exercise and we do not advocate or condone commercial espionage. We do hope this is a wake-up call to not only watch companies but companies in general. This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex

Formerly A Watchmaking Powerhouse, The United States Is Still Home To Serious Watchmakers If You Know Where To Look By Benjamin Lowry In the United States, it means something to be “American-made”, especially within the W.O.E. community. However, the realities behind “Made in the USA” have led to challenges for American brands seeking to celebrate the United States’ once proud horological traditions. So if you’re looking for an American-made watch, what are your options in 2025? In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss the current state of watchmaking in the United States, prefaced by a necessary exploration of the standards required for something to earn the “Made in the USA” designation in comparison to other prominent watchmaking nations.   (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) While there are challenges, the state of American watchmaking is not all doom and gloom, and many brands are doing big things in the United States that are worthy of celebrating. If buying a watch with US roots is important to you, this article serves as a primer for how to make informed buying decisions. It’s an admittedly imperfect science, but for each of the brands we cover, we’ll attempt to quantify the level of US manufacturing taking place. “Made In The USA” A technician assembles movements in Shinola’s Detroit factory. (Photo Credit: Detroit Free Press) Whether we like it or not, determining how “American” a watch is can be daunting, an issue further complicated by brands who use clever language in the interest of marketing and, ultimately, self-preservation. For the most part, these efforts are not malicious and are instead an attempt by brands to celebrate their American heritage while not running afoul of the legal definition of “Made in the USA”, which is more extreme than the standards enforced in many nations. “Made in USA” means that “all or virtually all” the product has been made in America. That is, all significant parts, processing, and labor that go into the product must be of U.S. origin. - Federal Trade Commission The FTC’s hard-line policy is in stark contrast to Switzerland’s standards for the official “Swiss-made” designation, which requires only 60% of a watch’s manufacturing costs to be incurred in Switzerland, with at least 50% of its components by value (including the movement) having originated in Switzerland. There are other provisions, but the key is that many watches from around the world, including Swiss watches, are allowed to have significant input from other countries—including China—while watches hoping to be considered “Made in the USA” must conform to the “all or virtually all” standard. It’s easier for watches to be “Swiss-made” than it is to obtain full “Made in the USA” status. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Considering that essential movement mechanical movement components like mainsprings and jewels are not currently manufactured in the US, “Made in the USA” is an all but unreachable standard for US-based watchmakers at the moment, but it wasn’t always this way. A Brief History Of US Watchmaking Once upon a time, watchmaking in the United States was a big deal. In the late 1800s, companies clustered around the Industrial Revolution hotbed of Waltham, Massachusetts implemented new ideas to industrialize watchmaking, leaning into pioneering mass production principles based on interchangeable and replaceable components. In late 1800s Switzerland, individual watchmakers in the Jura Mountains were still hand fabricating every component of a single watch, start to finish, one at a time, at a laborious rate. American watchmaking was miles ahead. In an act of corporate espionage, the Swiss industry responded by dispatching agents to the United States to study Waltham Watch Company in Waltham, Massachusetts. With an open mind and a new grasp of mass production principles in watchmaking, the horological spies returned to Switzerland to revolutionize Swiss watchmaking, gaining back the ground lost to the United States by the early 1900s. Jacques David (left) & Theo Gribi were the Swiss “spies” sent to the United States to learn about American watch manufacturing. The final blows to American watchmaking would come with the Great Depression and World War II. The stock market crash ensured few people could afford luxury items such as watches, and WWII meant that many American watch factories switched to making military equipment to aid the war effort. All the while, the neutral Swiss were free to ramp up production and marketing to fill the void in a way the Americans would never come back from. Along with Japan and Germany, Switzerland has pretty much been at the head of the watchmaking pack ever since. However, the past few years have seen a significant increase in interest in American watchmaking and a growing number of companies trying to revitalize America’s former watchmaking glory. Here is a list, in no particular order, of people and brands we think are notable in this new resurgence of American watchmaking. Note: Some great American watch companies rely on Asia for manufacturing and production, and there is nothing wrong with that, but for this list, we are sticking to brands that do an above-average amount of manufacturing, assembly, and/or testing in the U.S. as well as brands that otherwise have something unique that sets them apart. This is not intended as a complete or exhaustive list, and if there are other brands you believe we missed, we welcome your feedback in the comments. Weiss Watch Company - Nashville, Tennessee (Photo Credit: Weiss Watch Company) Inspired by a lifelong fascination with watches, Cameron Weiss pursued his passions by enrolling in an apprentice-style watchmaking program. After learning the ropes, Weiss cut his teeth working for renowned watch brands Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, honing his skills before setting off on his own with Weiss Watch Company in 2013. The brand has gone from hand-finishing watches at the Weiss family dining room table to a proper workshop in Nashville, Tennessee, with several landmark models, including the American Issue with a Weiss-made movement, and the bespoke Executive Issue featuring American-sourced gold. (Photo Credit: Weiss Watch Company) With a collection that combines complete movements sourced from Switzerland with other calibers that are “workshop made” by Weiss from both in-house and imported components, all of Weiss’s watches are meticulously assembled and tested in the United States and start around $2,500. RESCO Instruments - Coronado, California (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Moving to a brand close to our community, we have RESCO Instruments, which was founded by Robert Smith, an active duty Navy SEAL at the time, back in 2009. Given the founder’s line of work, the watches are extensively tested and used by Team Guys after being assembled and tested in the United States by the brand’s full-time watchmaker at RESCO’s Coronado headquarters. There are a wide variety of customization options as well as both quartz and automatic options for many of RESCO’s models. As a note, RESCO is heavy on maritime-related iconography with a trident on the seconds hand and many of the case backs, but we would argue the brand isn’t only for SEALs but rather intended to celebrate the legacy of the Naval Special Warfare community with solid utilitarian dive watches that start around $1,000. If you’re looking for an interactive sales experience, RESCO is also an approachable small American business, and pretty much anyone can call to chat with Rob and/or his wife about watches or to place an order. Of note, RESCO also has a robust unit watch program. Shinola - Detroit, Michigan (Photo Credit: Shinola) One of the more complicated names in the US watchmaking conversation is Shinola, which was founded in 2011 by Tom Kartsotis, a co-founder of Fossil, the mall watch giant. Bent on bringing back US and specifically Detroit manufacturing for watches, leather goods, bicycles, and more, Shinola unveiled its Runwell collection of watches in 2013, catching on with prominent wearers including President Bill Clinton. However, all was not as it seemed, and the FTC quickly stepped in to limit Shinola’s “Made in America” language and marketing slant, ordering the company to more accurately portray its timepieces as assembled in the United States from foreign components. President Bill Clinton has been a passionate Shinola supporter. After, Shinola pivoted to “Built in Detroit” language that the FTC also did not enjoy, arguing that it meant more or less the same thing as its previously challenged “American-made” claims. In any case, Shinola does assemble watches in the United States from what we can tell, and the brand’s efforts to create jobs in Detroit and bring manufacturing back to the United States are noble. With quartz models starting well under $1,000, Shinola is a brand to consider when looking for a watch with at least some American and even presidential caché. RGM - Lancaster, Pennsylvania (Photo Credit: RGM) The proverbial O.G. of modern American watchmaking, Roland G. Murphy launched the eponymous RGM watches in 1992. His interest in horology was spawned in high school when Murphy worked half days at a local clock company. This led him to pursue watchmaker training in Switzerland before taking a job with Hamilton back in Pennsylvania, eventually working his way up to Technical Manager, a role he maintained until the launch of RGM. The hand-made tourbillon on RGM’s Pennsylvania Tourbillon. (Photo Credit: RGM) With a stated goal “...to offer not only the finest watches made in the USA but the finest watches available”, RGM machines movement components, utilize centuries-old lathes for finishing, and dabbles in high complications including the tourbillon. Despite certain essential components still coming from Switzerland, from a movement perspective, RGM makes some of the most American watches in existence, currently offering no less than four “in-house” movements in various watches throughout its collection in addition to Swiss calibers. As you’d expect, RGM’s watches embody serious watchmaking and come with price points to match, starting at just over three grand with more pedestrian Swiss movements.   Barrelhand - San Ramon, California Barrelhand’s Project One was introduced in 2020 as a limited series of only ten watches priced at $30k. (Photo Credit: Barrelhand) Likely the most modern and avant-garde brand making watches in the United States today is Barrelhand, a small-batch producer of watches leaning into 3D printed technology as well as designs that are way out there for most. Started by former NASA researcher Karel Bachand, Barrelhand released their first watch, the Project One, in 2020 as a limited series of only ten watches at $30k apiece. It was a showcase of the possibilities of 3D printing, featuring the world’s first 3D printed movement bridge, as well as a crown release system, chapter rings, and lugs all fully 3D printed in titanium. The Barrelhand Monolith is theoretically intended for astronauts. (Photo Credit: Barrelhand) We are assume certain movement components come from elsewhere, but significant design and manufacturing are taking place in the United States. The brand’s second watch, the Monolith, is designed around a theoretical space travel use case and also leans heavily into 3D printing while coming in at a more reasonable but still serious $8,750. It’s not going to be for everyone, but we see Barrelhand as a more industrial American take on something like Urwerk or Richard Mille. Oak & Oscar - Chicago, Illinois (Photo Credit: Oak & Oscar) Within the microbrand/independent world, a few American upstarts are doing more than just drop shipping, and Oak & Oscar, based in Chicago, Illinois, is one of them. Founded by Chase Fancher in 2015, Oak & Oscar has a full-time watchmaker on staff who meticulously assembles each watch, a lot more than the average startup watch brand can say. Oak & Oscar’s collection centers around watches that could stand alone as a person’s one-watch collection, at times integrating helpful complications like a GMT or chronograph. (Photo Credit: Oak & Oscar) In keeping with the brand’s Chicago roots, all Oak & Oscar watches can be ordered with leather straps made by Horween Leather Company, the home of Shell Cordovan. For watches hand-assembled in Chicago using mechanical calibers coming from Switzerland, the price points aren’t out of hand either, starting around $1,600 for the time-only Olmsted 38 on a Horween leather strap. Oak & Oscar has also dipped its toe into the unit watch space, with a prior limited run for the US Secret Service. Mk II - Wayne, Pennsylvania (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) MK II was founded way back in 2002 by Bill Yao as a provider of watch parts including dials and hands intended for modifying watches from other brands, including Seiko’s SKX diver. Success in this venture led Mk II to evolve into a fully-fledged brand specializing in creating re-imagined second comings of some of history’s most important tool watches. Mk II, which is pronounced “Mark Two”, is military parlance for something like a second version or edition, meaning the brand's designs are intended not as replicas but rather updates with modern specs, manufacturing standards, and subtle design changes. Diving with the Mk II Fulcrum 39. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) For the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Mk II has the Stingray. For the Benrus Type I, the Paradive. For the Omega Seamaster 300, the Project 300. And, for the Mil-Sub, the Fulcrum 39 we recently tested underwater in the Florida Keys. It’s easy to call Mk II an “homage brand”, but there’s a lot more going on here, and if the speed with which Mk II’s watches sell out is any indication, plenty of people get it. Prices start around $1,000. SēL Instrument - Tucson, Arizona The OmniDiver Xos 42 from SēL feels almost like a concept watch. (Photo Credit: SEL Instrument) Part watch brand, part new approach to how a watch should look in general is SēL, a brand founded by Andrew McLean in Tucson, Arizona in 2013. Where Barrelhand is all about 3D printing, SēL’s thing is CNC machining, and you can tell from looking at the brand’s watches, most of which are hulking industrial designs made from titanium and steel. The movements are standard Swiss calibers (both quartz and mechanical options exist), but virtually everything else is being manufactured in the United States. Impressive for a brand of its size, SēL makes all of its dials in-house. (Photo Credit: SēL Instrument) This is another case of a design ethos that isn’t going to be for everyone, but the specs are certainly there with SēL’s watches, with the OmniDiver Xos 42 provides a staggering 2000 meters of water resistance as well as proprietary shock resistance tech, paired with in-house luminescent material, in-house dials, cases, and bracelets, a proprietary bezel click mechanism, and a lot more. We talk about the Use Your Tools ethos all the time, and SēL’s watches look and feel more like tools than most while starting around $4,800 for the aforementioned OmiDiver. Vaer - Venice Beach, California (Photo Credit: Vaer) Vaer was started by two friends in California, in the way that a lot of small brands start, sourcing parts and almost complete watches from overseas. They quickly moved to a more USA-centric business model, assembling many of their watches stateside while being refreshingly transparent about which watches come from where. Vaer has also recently adopted the USA-built AmeriQuartz movement in some of their watches to create what they call “...the most American quartz watches on the market (measured by source origin value)”. (Photo Credit: Vaer) With price points starting at $200 and even less in some cases, Vaer is a solid option for anyone looking to celebrate at least some level of American watchmaking on a budget. Although the brand has a few questionable designs and is currently sporting a sprawling online catalog that is challenging to grasp, the fact that Vaer is focused on moving things towards American-made earns them a spot here. J.N. Shapiro - Los Angeles, California Shaprio’s dials are made using a traditional rose engine, a special type of lathe. (Photo Credit: J.N. Shapiro) Josh Shapiro, a history teacher by trade, got his start tinkering with watches around his dining room table. This led him to an interest in 100-year-old engine-turning machines used to create traditional patterns such as guilloché on watch dials for other watchmakers. The success of these dials, using the same techniques used by watchmakers hundreds of years ago, led Shapiro to found his brand back in 2018. Soon after, Shapiro moved into producing complete watches and, beyond a few key components from Switzerland, complete movements, meaning these watches are crafted virtually 100% in the United States. Shapiro’s watches are among the most beautifully decorated being made in the United States. (Photo Credit: J.N. Shapiro) Meticulously made by hand at the rate of about 30 pieces per year, Shapiro’s watches are expensive and the kind of thing few of us will ever see, let alone own. It’s hard enough to try to enter the more affordable end of the watch industry with an American-made ethos, and harder still to see someone go after the traditional, high-end corner of the market traditionally controlled by some of Switzerland’s biggest names. Whether you’re a buyer for something like this or not, you have to respect what Shapiro has set out to do. Vortic - Fort Collins, Colorado (Photo Credit: Vortic) One of the more unusual options on our list is Vortic, a brand with a core competency of taking vintage pocket watches from former American brands like Illinois and Hamilton and converting them into wristwatches in its Fort Collins, Colorado base. Given that many of these older pocket watches are completely American and whatever new modifications are taking place in the USA, one could frame an argument for Vortic’s collection being among the “most American” watches on offer, an intriguing point of differentiation compared to the other names on this list. (Photo Credit: Vortic) Of course, stemming from pocket watches means Vortic’s watches are typically large and sometimes very large, with certain models coming in at 45mm in diameter. In addition, Vortic’s watches aren’t cheap with most coming in around $4k or more. After a five-year legal battle with Hamilton, which is backed by the Swatch Group, Vortic also managed an important legal victory defending its ability to re-engineer and sell modern wristwatches built from vintage Hamilton watches that continue to carry Hamilton’s signature. This likely astronomically expensive legal battle shows Vortic’s determination to carry out its unique mission in the USA. Of interest to our community, John Krasinski wears a Vortic Military Edition in some episodes of Jack Ryan on Amazon. The Future Of American Watchmaking   As this list of brands indicates, there have been big steps made in the last decade or so to rejuvenate American watchmaking, but there’s still a long way to go to reclaim the once-proud US watchmaking tradition of the 1800s if such a thing is even possible. In any case, for buyers for whom American provenance is a key factor, any discussion of where to look for an “American watch” is nuanced, and complicated. Doing your research is key. The brands presented here are not intended as a complete picture of American watches but rather a jumping-off point for further research into the US watch industry. For the moment, a 100% American watch satisfying the “Made in the USA” standard does not appear to exist, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t great options displaying a range of levels of US roots. Switzerland, Japan, and Germany may be the key watchmaking nations of the moment, but the United States is also on the map and quickly growing. At W.O.E., celebrating US-based brands and suppliers is an important aspect of our ethos, and we are excited to see where this resurgent American watchmaking industry can go. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Timepiece Analysis: President Putin and Tucker Carlson

Former French Spy Chief found guilty of using public intelligence resources to aid LVMH and France’s richest man, Bernard Arnault. Nothing gets the blood flowing like a little corporate espionage. On 7 March, Bernard Squarcini, the former chief of France’s domestic intelligence service, was convicted of using public resources to benefit a private client, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton). According to court records, Squarcini used government surveillance assets in 2008 to monitor a cyber cafe in an effort to identify an individual attempting to blackmail LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault and for conducting illegal surveillance against other individuals. Squarcini was sentenced to two years' house arrest, two years' probation, and a 200,000 Euro fine. Spicy. Bernard Squarcini was conducting private intelligence operations for LVMH.  The Squarcini-LVMH case sheds light on the lengths luxury brands will go to protect their reputation as well as a window into the common, but little understood, practice of corporate espionage and private intelligence. LVMH is arguably the largest luxury conglomerate and owns several watch brands, including Zenith, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari. The conglomerate was also an investor in Hodinkee through its corporate venture capital arm: LVMH Luxury Ventures. Bernard Squarcini, known in some circles as “The Shark” (Le Squale), is a former police officer who rose to lead France’s domestic intelligence service, Direction Centrale du Renseignement Intérieur (DCRI - later DGSI), from 2008 to 2012. Appointed by then-president Nicolas Sarkozy, he played a significant role in domestic security and counterterrorism during this timeframe. He also appears to be somewhat of a watch guy, and he was photographed wearing an older model Breitling Navitimer chronograph in steel and gold (shocker). Bernard Squarcini wearing what appears to be a steel & gold Breitling Navitimer.  While it appears Squarcini’s freelancing may have started when he was head of DCRI, in 2013, he founded Kyrnos, a private intelligence firm, which provided a range of intelligence and investigative services to private corporations. It was at this point that he was reportedly hired by the luxury brand as a “security consultant”—a vague term that can mean many different things.   Bernard Arnault, the founder, CEO, and chairman of LVMH, is among the world's richest people.  The client was LVMH and, therefore, also its founder, chairman, CEO, and largest shareholder, Bernard Arnault. With an estimated net worth of $233 billion, he was dubbed Forbes Magazine’s richest person in 2024, ahead of Elon Musk, Jeff Bezos, and Mark Zuckerberg. It is no surprise that Arnault’s watch game is strong, and he owns what is likely a pièce unique (one-of-one) Tiffany-Blue Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740, an even more limited edition of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany & Co. edition, limited to 170 pieces. Of note, LVMH also owns Tiffany and Co., and the limited release with Patek has traded for over $1 million on the secondary market.  Bernard Arnault pictured with son, Frédéric Arnault, who now serves as CEO of LVMH Watches. On Bernard's wrist is his one-of-a-kind Tiffany Patek Philippe reference 5740. Photo Credit: Arnault Instagram. It is clear that Arnault values the watch companies in the LVMH portfolio and has even appointed his 26-year-old son Frederic Arnault as CEO of TAG Heuer, who was later promoted to CEO of LVMH Watches before the age of 30 (key succession music). Accusations & Conviction The conviction and sentencing of the former French spy chief is related to Squarcini’s misuse of public resources to identify a blackmailer targeting Arnault. According to court documents, Squarcini also drew on his influence to collect classified information and spy on activist journalist Francois Ruffin. Ruffin produced a documentary, “Merci Patron!,” which discussed companies' outsourcing of French jobs to foreign labor and was heavily critical of Arnault and LVMH. While LVMH CEO Arnault's involvement in the illicit activity is denied by the company, it is not a stretch that he was at least potentially aware of Squarcini’s work for LVMH. It is clear that brand and personal reputation are key aspects of a luxury brand's value proposition. Squarcini at the courthouse in Nov 2024. (Photo Credit: Reuters) According to press reporting, LVMH previously settled a case involving Squarcini spying on private individuals by paying 10 million euros but was quick to note that this payment did not constitute a judgment against the company or an admission of guilt. Squarcini’s lawyers said they would appeal the verdict. “Private Intelligence” - Mercenaries for Hire? In Hollywood, intelligence firms are vilified as mercenaries for hire, willing to work for the highest dollar with nothing off the table. There is some truth to this, but most “private intelligence” companies work for corporations and provide relatively mundane investigations, political risk assessments, and due diligence. That said, some are willing to operate in the grey/black like Squarcini, and their actions can and do result in convictions and prison sentences. We have touched on this in the past with Daniel Corbett, a Rolex-wearing former SEAL turned mercenary who was arrested in 2017 in Serbia while visiting a source to collect information on a terrorist financier on behalf of an unspecified client. Daniel Corbett, a former SEAL who was jailed in Serbia. Former intelligence officers from CIA, British MI6, and other agencies are valued for their skillset and knowledge but also their tolerance for risk and network of contacts. Many former colleagues of mine at CIA have gone into this business, and roles range from benign political risk for large oil companies to more murky work for unspecified clients “based out of” the United Arab Emirates. It can be a dangerous game with real consequences. While these arrangements are generally kept secret, they do sometimes make international headlines and can have a significant impact on geopolitics. The controversial Trump-Russia “Steele dossier” opposition report compiled by Fusion GPS and former MI6 officer Christopher Steele is one recent example. Separately, according to press reports, Qatar hired former CIA officers (Global Risk Advisors) to influence their bid for the World Cup. Israeli firms, notably NSO Group and Black Cube, have (allegedly) been used by private entities and governments to collect damaging information about individuals and human rights activists. The line between legal research and illegal practices can often be blurred and open to interpretation. Christopher Steele, a former British Secret Intelligence Service officer and founder of Orbis Business Intelligence. Espionage is illegal in every country, and intelligence officers from CIA and other services are trained to lie, cheat, and steal on behalf of their government. As government officials, intelligence officers are mostly protected from third country prosecution through diplomatic immunity, but this goes away once they leave the government. After a life of operating in the grey area, some practitioners find it difficult to make this transition to the private sector where laws and norms must be adhered to.  The world is not all flowers and rainbows. To quote the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche: “Whoever fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster, for when you look into an abyss, the abyss also looks into you.” If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watches of the Middle East and the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

While many modern service members trust Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) in the performance of their duties, there is a growing subset of the military, SpecOps, and the Intelligence Community leaning into the combination of utility and mechanical intrigue presented by analog watches. There’s a lot of marketing B.S. out there, and whether you’re actually in the military or simply interested in a solid timepiece fit for service, it can be challenging to know where to start. In our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we share some of our top picks for military watches intended for the most common operational environments: land, sea, and air. Looking at a wide variety of price points and brands from around the world, this video is a primer for military watches fit for the Use Your Tools lifestyle. Enjoy episode fifteen of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Using Hotel Safes As A CIA Case Officer & In Daily Life During my second tour as a CIA Case Officer, I received a short message from a HQS office I had never heard of. The individual inquired about an upcoming vacation (R&R) I planned to take with Mrs. W.O.E. and specifically our stay at a relatively obscure 3-star resort in the middle of the Indian ocean. After confirming the details, the individual asked if I would photograph the locks, cameras, and hotel room safe during my visit. I said yes without hesitation and eagerly awaited a special camera (REDACTED). I would later come to find out that the office was responsible for CIA's “black bag operations” or surreptitious entry, i.e., the group that breaks into buildings in the middle of the night (REDACTED). To this day, I don’t know if the request for pictures was for a specific operation or to have “just in case” it was needed in the future. I did notice that many individuals from a certain country were present at the hotel, so I have my suspicions. My wife enjoyed posing around the hotel as I photographed her in front of the cameras and rolled her eyes when I asked her to keep watch as I photographed the hinges, keypad, and serial numbers of the closet-mounted safe. Years later, I received a demonstration from CIA technical officers on how long it took to defeat electronic locks on hotel rooms and digital safes: about 3 seconds. There is nothing secret about this capability, and there are commercially available technologies capable of defeating hotel locks and safes. The process is achieved by electronically overriding the lock via a port under the keypad (or key scanner on a hotel door). Electronic access port under the keypad of a Safemark Systems hotel safe. Is “Hotel Safe” An Oxymoron? If you find yourself as a Student Case Officer (SCO) at the CIA training center—“the Farm”—and receive a pop quiz; “True or false, a hotel safe is sufficient for Covert Communications (CovCom) storage?” Circle false. The answer is false. You don’t have to be a super-secret squirrel to know that a hotel safe is not safe storage for anything; this should be common sense. Using the transitive property, it’s logical to conclude that you should never leave your prized Omega or Rolex in a hotel safe. But I would point you to the real answer to every question at the CIA: It depends. Drawer mounted hotel safe. Dubai – A Case Study I was recently in Dubai for a short layover and was traveling with three watches: a Rolex GMT, a Tudor Black Bay 58, and the more affordable Arabic Seiko. I stayed at a nice hotel (like most hotels in Dubai), and the United Arab Emirates is arguably one of the safest countries in the world. For most of my trip, I left the Seiko and Black Bay 58 in the hotel safe and wore the GMT on my wrist. I could have carried the other two in my man purse, as the risk of them getting stolen on the street is low in Dubai, but I assessed that the likelihood of accidentally leaving the bag at a coffee shop or bar exceeded the likelihood of them being stolen out of my hotel room. Travel risk mitigation is often about choosing the best or least worst option. Would I leave my priceless South African Navy-issued Tudor in the hotel safe? No, because it’s irreplaceable. If it’s irreplaceable, don’t take it with you. South African Navy issued Tudor MilSub ref 7016.  (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Watch Crime Is No Joke As we have discussed at length, watch crime is at an all-time high. According to data from The Watch Register, the global value of stolen watches in 2024 exceeded $2 billion, a remarkable number. Examples of watches stolen out of hotel safes are numerous, and the incidents often go unreported. When it comes to hotels, crime can be sophisticated, such as breaking and entering, targeting patrons at the hotel bar, or more opportunistic sticky fingers from the housekeeper. Considerations With Hotel Safes Of course, the safest thing to do is to leave your watch at home and/or travel with one affordable watch. But if you do decide to travel with more than one, here are some considerations. The Bates Motel vs. The Four Seasons In general, a 5-star hotel will have better security than a 1-star hostel. The Ritz Paris on Place Vendôme will have a director of security, controlled access elevators, and working cameras throughout. The hostel will not. Security personnel will be more likely to ensure access to the safes is restricted and that default codes are reset. That’s not to say that luxury hotels are inherently safe, but they are probably safer. The first thing I do when I arrive at a hotel is take a basic stock of the security measures in place. Besides the obvious indicators, this is often more a gut feeling than anything else. The Safe Characteristics Hotel safes are often mounted in a closet or drawer and vary greatly from cheap and mechanical to sophisticated and robust. A good safe is secured to the wall and is not easily removed. If possible, you should check to see if the default or administrator password has been reset, a common mistake made by hotels when installing the safe.   For many safes, you can enter “superuser mode” by pressing the lock button twice, followed by the default/factory master password: 999999. Default passwords can often be found online. Regardless, the hotel staff can generally get into a safe if a customer accidentally forgets the password. Hotel procedures should require at least two members to be present when opening a safe, but in my experience, this policy is rarely adhered to. Entering superuser mode by pressing “LOCK” twice; default override password for SafeMark safes is “999999” Most electronic safes can also be accessed electronically via a port under the keypad. The purpose of the port is to program the safe, but commercially available technology can plug in and immediately override the set code. Some also can be open with a traditional key, often held by the hotel. Of note, many hotel room electronic locks can also be accessed via a port under the lock. In this video, after entering superuser mode, by pressing “LOCK” twice, I am able to confirm the default code of 999999 has been changed, but the safe is secured via easily accessible screws, making removal of the entire safe easy with a wrench. I give it a B. Other Precautions The first thing I do after getting into a hotel room is put the do not disturb sign on the door, which generally stays there for the remainder of my stay.  I also check to make sure the windows and door to the adjoining room are locked. Whenever I leave the room, I turn on the TV to ensure there is some noise coming from the room, but not so loud that a neighbor calls to complain. Lastly, check the exits and cameras in the hallway to understand what is and isn’t being captured. If anything is wrong with your room, ask for another one. Alternatives To Hotel Safes? Of course, the elephant in the room is why you would travel with one, let alone multiple watches. The safest thing is to leave your watches at home, and I do agree that anything you travel with should be considered perishable to some extent. If you want to travel with a watch, consider an affordable (a relative term) one-watch approach. I wouldn’t take that family heirloom Omega to Cape Town.   Travel essentials: An affordable, one-watch companion may be a better option for travel.  Pictured here is a CWC SBS. Bring It With You There are times when bringing your watch with you is better than leaving it in the room, and this depends on your location, activity, and watch. You probably don’t want to wear a Rolex while clubbing in London, but a stroll around the Dubai Marina, I wouldn’t think twice. I would never leave it in a bag while taking a swim on a public beach, but that boutique hotel on a private beach may be viable. Hide It In The Room There is a theory floating around the internet that you should hide valuables in your room. A locked safe indicates there is something of value in it, and an open safe may telegraph that you have nothing of value.  The idea is to hide the watch in the hotel room: in a dirty sock, tucked in a hidden pocket of your suitcase, or even the bottom of a dopp kit. This theory does hold weight, and it is something I have done, particularly in hotels without safes or AirBnBs. Again, the do not disturb sign is key here. That said, this option is also not without risk. If housekeeping does come in, they could mistakenly wash that dirty sock, or you could forget to retrieve it while in a rush checking out. Safety Deposit Box At The Front Desk Some hotels have safe deposit boxes for guest use. I have never used one because I don’t like to telegraph to the hotel staff that I have something of value. These safe deposit boxes are on a spectrum, with some offering secure storage with one box per patron while others are a single communal safe. My biggest concern here is that you introduce a human element. The front desk changes over time, and multiple people could, in theory, have access to that storage box. Apple Air Tag Real-time geolocational devices used to be the stuff of futuristic spy movies, but today, they are readily accessible from Apple and other vendors. While most savvy criminals will check the loot for an air tag, it is a simple measure to throw one in your watch pouch or bag just in case it is stolen or misplaced.   What Happens If Something Is Stolen? As a general rule, if something is truly irreplaceable, leave it at home. If you do decide to take a nice watch on a trip, make sure you have pictures of the watch and have documented the serial numbers. If possible, insure the watch and make sure that the insurance will cover stolen property out of a hotel safe. If the watch is stolen, make sure you document it with the local police and the hotel, as this documentation will be needed to file a claim. Please note that most hotels have disclaimers that they are not responsible for stolen items. So, What's The Verdict? If this article seems vague and non-descriptive, that is by design. The goal is not to tell you what to think but to teach you how to think. There are no true or false quizzes at the Farm because there are very few definites in the world of intelligence. To be very clear, I am by no means advocating for storing watches in hotel safes, and if you do so, you must acknowledge the risk of the watch not being there when you return. What I am really saying is “it depends.” This article is about watches, but the knowledge should be applied to passports, computers, tablets, and other valuables. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches, Part I This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

At Watches of Espionage, we don’t generally do watch reviews. The fact is that other platforms are better suited for this type of content. We will never become yet another outlet copying and pasting watch specifications and marketing language, but certain brands and models feel closer to our community than others and deserve a closer look. We’re big fans of the Tornek-Rayville/Mk II, so we wanted to shed some light on Mk II’s newest release, the Fulcrum 39. As always, nothing you see here is sponsored. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) We strongly believe in the Use Your Tools ethos, meaning that if we’re going to discuss a particular watch, we’ll be using it for its intended purpose. With that in mind, Ben, our resident expert in the maritime environment who previously put the Marathon GSAR collection to the test, is back with another diving review of Mk II’s latest release. We see this becoming a series and welcome your feedback. Is A $1,000 Watch From An American Microbrand A Worthy Successor To The Legendary Rolex Mil-Sub? By Benjamin Lowry  At around 70 feet deep somewhere off the coast of Key Largo, Florida, the colors of the coral reef are muted, presenting a blue-grey seascape that feels like a dated photograph. With modern diving equipment, a decent wetsuit, and a fancy diving computer on my right wrist, I am at ease in the 75-degree water. To quote Kincade (and Moneypenny) in Skyfall, “Sometimes the old ways are the best”, and I have elected to wear a leaky old-school oval mask and an analog dive watch for the occasion. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) Peering down at the new Fulcrum 39 from Mk II on my left wrist, I am reminded of the delta between the grizzled Royal Navy Clearance Divers of old—whose issued Rolex Mil-Subs served as the inspiration for the modern Fulcrum 39—and myself, a washed-up commercial diver turned watch writer currently puttering around a tropical reef. That important distinction aside, the best way to get to know a dive watch is to let it do its thing. In this Dispatch, I dive with the Fulcrum 39 in an attempt to unpack what it means to honor the legacy of a legend with a compelling modern watch capable of standing alone. The Rolex Mil-Sub Mo Crang, a Royal Navy Clearance Diver, wearing a Rolex Mil-Sub on its issued nylon strap. (Photo Credit: Tony Groom) To understand the Fulcrum 39, we’ll need at least a basic grasp of the watch that inspired its creation, the Rolex Military Submariner or Mil-Sub. While the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Tudor “Snowflake” Submariners used by the Marine Nationale and Omega’s British military-issued Seamaster 300 are all important players in the arena of military dive watches, many would argue that the Mil-Sub takes the undersea cake. Issued in as few as 1,200 examples, the British Military’s special version of the Rolex Submariner provides an almost perfect combination of enduring design, provenance, and utility. In November 2024, a Rolex Mil-Sub hammered for $240k at Christie’s, well beyond the means of most tool watch users. (Photo Credit: Christie’s) As is often the case with cool old things, collectors are well aware. The few surviving Mil-Subs are among the most valuable military watches today, with at least one example from 1974 hammering for $240k at Christie’s as recently as November of last year. Even if you have the money, it would be hard to argue that a vintage Mil-Sub is a great candidate for a modern Use Your Tools lifestyle. Sure, you could get a new Rolex Submariner, but you’re still talking about ten grand, and the watch today feels miles apart from its military-specific predecessor. So, if you appreciate the core design elements and utilitarian ethos of the Mil-Sub but want something reliable, modern, and (a lot) more attainable, what else is out there? Enter Mk II. What Is Mk II? There is a lot more to the Fulcrum 39 than an homage. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Watch microbrands these days are a dime a dozen. To be clear, there are great microbrands I would argue are at the beating heart of the enthusiast community. But for every one of those, there are a thousand Kickstarter campaigns out there spewing $500 to $1500 watches that, for one reason or another, simply don’t have the sauce. Mk II, which was founded by Bill Yao back in 2002, is one of the OG microbrands and is replete with sauce. Though its beginnings were humble, mostly selling aftermarket parts for modifying Seikos, Mk II’s ethos quickly came together. It’s all in the name. “Mk” in military parlance means something like model, edition, or variant. So Mk II—which is pronounced “Mark Two”—denotes the second version or a reimagining of an existing piece of equipment. Are Mk II’s watches homages? By definition, yes, but there is more to the story here than a cheap San Martin Rolex knockoff on Amazon. The goal with a Mk II is never to fool your buddies into thinking you picked up a $250k auction piece, but rather to take some of history’s great tool watches—which are typically well out of reach anyway—and reimagine them with updated materials, manufacturing standards, and subtle aesthetic changes to create something new, aware of its past yet distinct. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) For the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Mk II has the Stingray. For the Benrus Type I, the Paradive. For the Omega Seamaster 300, the Project 300. And, for the Mil-Sub, Mk II unveiled the original 42mm Fulcrum back in 2013. Over the past couple of years, Yao’s spin-off brand, Tornek-Rayville, has captured much of the limelight with its TR-660, but recently, Mk II has circled back to the Fulcrum with a new 39mm variant aptly named the Fulcrum 39. The watch is intended as a modern American Mil-Sub, but how does it stack up? The Fulcrum 39 - A Modern American Mil-Sub? Put simply, for just under $1,000, the Fulcrum offers a lot to like. Measuring 39mm across and 14.1mm tall, including the domed sapphire crystal, the Fulcrum wears more or less like an old Tudor or Rolex Submariner, which is a good thing. The watch is also available on either rubber or nylon straps as well as the option of a stainless steel bracelet with screwed links and a NodeX clasp with a slick integrated micro-adjustment system. The clasp is cool but, unfortunately, doesn’t offer enough length to get over most diving suits. It’s probably not an issue for most, but I ain’t most. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) The matte black dial has printed indices coated with Super-LumiNova BGW9 that glows blue and relatively well. The overall format combines elements from a couple of different vintage Rolex Submariner dials, as well as the Mil-Sub’s signature sword hands, and is available with or without a date that falls into the 4:30 position if you go that route. The bezel is generally shaped like that of a vintage Rolex, rotating with solid action throughout its 120 clicks with edges that are so grippy they’re almost sharp. The crown is large at 7mm, signed, and screws down far enough to provide a lot of peace of mind, providing control of the non-date Miyota 90S5 on the inside. Both the case and bracelet are bead blasted, an effect that fits the utilitarian aesthetic this watch is after but won’t garner positive comments at your local watch meetup about the finishing. With the basics out of the way, let’s go diving. Diving With The Fulcrum 39 Despite the heavily domed crystal, underwater legibility with the Fulcrum was not an issue. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) Tumbling off the swim platform of our Florida Keys scuba boat, I kept half an eye on the Fulcrum as a watch nerd does. Before descending, I set the bezel to serve as an almost certainly unnecessary backup to my Garmin Mk3i diving computer. Though I was digging the bracelet, I had to swap over to a nylon strap to fit the watch over my 4/3mm wetsuit, opting for a Five Eye paired with a Submersible Wrist Compass. In the water, the contrast between the dial, indices, and handset made for impressive legibility, a factor aided by the use of anti-reflective material on the underside of the crystal that appears blue, a polarizing feature for some but not something I mind. The bezel was also easy to rotate, and I used it to time my three-minute safety stop at the tail end of the dive. Testing a dive watch in South Florida is not a rough life. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) As great dive watch designs often do, the Fulcrum faded into the background of my subconscious mind in the water. Everything worked as intended, and my dive time was determined at a glance without giving the watch itself a second thought. As I am sure someone will correctly point out in the comments, most modern divers don’t use analog dive watches. However, despite all of my modern equipment, the Mk II watch on my wrist was still a tool, as capable in 2025 as it would have been decades ago. Awkwardly climbing the ladder, I pondered the idea that most of the key elements of the Fulcrum’s design come from Rolex, not Mk II. But it is Mk II that has packaged the whole thing in a modern way that many can afford and appreciate, providing a legitimate inroad to an important design format without feeling like a copy. It’s a difficult balance but also an important conversation to have. Final Thoughts After dealing with the leaky old-school mask for one dive, it was time for something more modern. The Fulcrum didn’t seem to care what was thrown at it. (Photo Credit: Geoff Gerrits) This shouldn’t come as a shock, but despite its visual similarities, the Fulcrum 39 from Mk II is not a Rolex Mil-Sub. I would argue that it isn’t trying to be. The Fulcrum is instead a modern take on the codes established by the Mil-Sub, updated and upgraded to suit the needs of modern divers and military members. At least for me, the line between homage and copy is nuanced but has a lot to do with the level of respect and thought going into any new design meant to reference another existing watch.Rather than the end of the story, the OG Mil-Sub was the starting point in the Fulcrum 39’s design, before going through Bill Yao’s famously exacting process, with each element and aspect carefully weighed, measured, and distilled for maximum utility and an overall look that’s cleaner than your grandma’s kitchen. Still, the Fulcrum 39 isn’t perfect. The clasp doesn’t extend enough for many wetsuits, the finishing is just ok, the lume’s performance is good but not great, and some will take issue with the price point compared to the Japanese movement on the inside. Though, that last point is probably moot, as the initial run sold out in minutes. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) It’s not for everyone, but as I said, the Fulcrum 39 still offers a lot to like, truly feeling like what an “American Mil-Sub” might be if there were such a thing, with great strap and bracelet options, a near perfect fit for most, excellent attention to detail with things like alignment, and an ethos I can get behind. It’s not the thing, and it was never intended to be. It’s a second coming of the thing: a riff on an existing idea, carefully juxtaposed against what works and what people want today. In a sea of 1:1 “heritage-inspired” watches, the Fulcrum 39 balances old and new in a way I can get behind while also honoring the W.O.E. community in the process. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Diving With The Marathon Search and Rescue

Backed by a significant history of producing military watches dating back to the First World War, Omega quietly continues to produce customized “Unit Watches” for select government organizations and military units including the US Navy SEALs, US Secret Service, Danish Frogman Corps, and more. Intriguingly, despite being one of the world’s largest watch brands and no stranger to mass marketing, Omega’s unit watch program isn’t officially acknowledged. In the newest episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we pull back the curtain on Omega’s modern unit watch program, using specific examples and intel gathered from the world of SpecOps to show that at least for Omega, the Use Your Tools ethos is alive and well. And no, you can’t have a custom unit Seamaster for your local watch meetup. Enjoy episode fourteen of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

FBI Breitlings, Iran Holding British Couple, Luxury Watch Scammer Sentenced, Pro-Russian Paramilitary Leader Assassinated, & New Stats For Swiss Watches By Benjamin Lowry At Watches of Espionage, we take a holistic approach to our understanding of current events, regularly scrolling mainstream news outlets, sketchy conspiracy theory sites, social media, and anything else that falls within our purview. Once a month, we take all of that roughly digested information and distill it into something we like to call the SITREP (Situation Report), a brief synopsis of recent events related to watches, crime, espionage, the military, and anything else we think you’ll find valuable or entertaining. No marketing fluff. No celebrity endorsements. Only the good stuff. This past month, there was a lot to unpack. From a fraudulent Beverly Hills watch dealer getting his comeuppance to a pro-Russia paramilitary leader dying in a mysterious explosion to British nationals accused of espionage (sketchy Breitling content included) to some surprising watch theft stats, it’s been a big February. On top of all that, one of the more important statistical analyses of the watch industry was recently released, serving up several intriguing insights. Hold onto your hats, it’s time for the SITREP. The Timepiece Gentleman Sentenced For Mail & Wire Fraud At this point, our fascination with watch-related crime is well-established and some would say borderline unhealthy. After pleading guilty back in October, Anthony Farrer, who operated a Beverly Hills watch consignment business based on an online persona known as “The Timepiece Gentleman”, was recently sentenced for mail and wire fraud to the tune of about 5.6M US doll hairs. According to court documents, after advertising a relatively straightforward consignment-style business in which he would retain a percentage of proceeds after selling a watch on behalf of a client, Farrer would instead keep all of the money, using the ill-begotten funds to maintain a lavish LA lifestyle including luxury apartments and cars. As we have discussed in our piece looking at watches as tools of money laundering and other illicit activities, timepieces are easily transferable units of value. That aspect, combined with the dramatic rise in the value of brands and vintage watches, means bad actors looking to make a quick buck will increasingly look to watches for nefarious purposes. However, in the long run, crime doesn’t pay, and the ironically named Timepiece Gentleman will have almost six years in federal prison to consider whether all of the Richard Mille Instagram wrist shots were worth it. US Secret Service Breitling On The New Deputy Director Of The FBI Dan Bongino in his USSS days wearing a Secret Service Breitling “Unit Watch” while providing close protection to President Barack Obama. As discussed in our look at the watches of the Trump Administration, the White House has no shortage of Breitling content. Kash Patel, Trump’s pick to lead the FBI, wears a 46mm titanium Breitling Cockpit B50 with the White House seal on the dial, part of a special run of White House Breitling models ordered in the past few years. Not to be outdone, Trump’s pick for the FBI’s deputy director spot, former Secret Service agent and conservative media personality Dan Bongino, has also been spotted wearing a Breitling. Former USSS Acting Director Ronald Rowe wearing a USSS Breitling that could be the same as Bongino’s. Rather than the White House version, Bongino’s Breitling appears to be the seldom-seen older USSS Colt GMT with the Service Star on the dial that we’ve also spotted on former Acting Secret Service Director Ronald Rowe. Remember, when it comes to sketchy dudes and Breitling, we don’t make the rules. We simply observe and discuss. Pro-Russia Paramilitary Leader Dies In Moscow Explosion - Wearing A Richard Mille? Moving from white-collar watch crime to the world of espionage, Armen Sarkisyan, the founder of a pro-Russia paramilitary group, was assassinated on 03 February following an explosion in central Moscow. The founder of the “Arbat Battalion”, a paramilitary organization that fought for Russia against Ukraine in several key engagements, has been described as a criminal mastermind and was once allegedly responsible for overseeing Russian prisons where he recruited fighters for the Russian war effort. Unsurprisingly, Ukraine has yet to comment on the explosion but with a history of targeted killings including the assassination of Russian Naval Commander Stanislav Rzhitsky carried out in Russia using Strava data, it would not be a large logical leap to imagine Ukraine’s defense intelligence agency was involved. Getting back to watches, Sarkisyan has been photographed wearing what appears to be a Richard Mille chronograph, potentially the RM 50-03 that will set you back $1M, as well as an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore chronograph. Whether this is real or not, we can only speculate, but we would not be surprised either way. Serving as a prominent private military contractor for Russia appears to have good watch implications but is also bad for your health. Yevgeny Prigozhin, the head of the Wagner Group had been spotted wearing a Ulysse Nardin before he turned against Russia and—coincidentally, maybe—died in a plane “crash” a couple of months later. British Motorcycle Tourists Detained In Iran & Charged With Espionage A pair of British motorcycle tourists, Craig and Lindsay Foreman, have been detained and charged with espionage in Iran after traveling to the country as part of a Middle Eastern motorcycle tour. According to the Iranian government, the couple, “...entered Iran under the guise of tourists and gathered information in multiple provinces of the country.” According to The Guardian, since 2010, at least 66 foreigners and dual citizens have been detained by Iran on a wide variety of charges often related to espionage. Despite a photo of Craig Foreman wearing an old-school Breitling Colt, we would be shocked to learn the couple was involved in clandestine activities, and it’s far more likely they are the victims of so-called “hostage diplomacy”, the taking of hostages for diplomatic leverage. That said, the naivety of Western travelers never ceases to amaze, and we would argue people need to start taking responsibility for their actions. It might sound like fun to rollerblade through Iran, play basketball in Russia, or teach Somali kids yoga, but these decisions have real geopolitical consequences, with the US and UK governments often making significant concessions to get people like Craig and Lindsay home. Morgan Stanley’s Watch Industry Report For 2024 Is In Likely the most-referenced guide to the overall health of the Swiss watch industry, Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult’s annual report was published earlier this month. We try to stay away from pure industry news, but an overarching statistical analysis like this is worthy of your time, showing numerically which brands are growing in revenue and market share, which are in decline, and how the Swiss watch industry as a whole is faring, all free from the influence of brand marketing dollars. The revelations this year are straightforward. Rolex continues its reign, accounting for an astonishing 32% of the Swiss market share and over 10.5B CHF in turnover based on sales of 1.24M units. Those numbers—which are estimates for a private business like Rolex—are not so different from last year but worthy of a second glance when you consider the massive delta between the Crown and Cartier down in second place with an 8% market share and 3.1B CHF in turnover based on 660,000 units. More broadly, the report indicates the overall health of the industry could be better, with a 3% decrease in Swiss watch exports from 2023 to 2024 and only eleven of the top 50 brands recording growth. Despite these metrics, nothing here amounts to doom and gloom for Swiss watch lovers or indicates we are any closer to being able to walk into a Rolex AD and grab a brand spanking new GMT-Master II right out of the showcase. Watch Theft Tops $2B Globally In 2024 Richard Mille accounted for the ten most valuable stolen watches in 2024. (Source: BBC) Once again revisiting the seedy world of watch theft, new reporting from LBC based on data from The Watch Register claims the global value of stolen watches in 2024 topped £1.6B, or approximately $2B, with some £60M ($75M) worth of luxury watch theft coming from Britain alone. In most cases, stolen watches are sold internationally after being networked through transnational criminal organizations that also often deal in illicit narcotics and human smuggling, using luxury watches as another increasingly lucrative income stream. Rolex remains the most commonly stolen brand, though the top ten stolen watches in value were all from Richard Mille, which makes sense given Richard Mille’s average per-watch cost in 2024 was an astronomical 275,000 CHF, again referencing Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult’s report. As the potential upside for criminal organizations increases, these robberies have become more brazen, sophisticated, and violent, with some perpetrators surveilling potential victims in luxurious shopping areas or watch boutiques before identifying targets, following them to a more secluded area or even their residence, and relieving them of their timepieces, sometimes violently. We’ve discussed luxury watch theft in detail and provided some of our recommendations for avoiding becoming a victim of this growing trend. Suffice it to say that situational awareness is always key and flexing your Batman GMT in Mayfair is never worth catching an ass-whooping and losing your $11k watch. W.O.E. In The Press While it is never our intention, our discussion of Watches of Espionage occasionally finds itself referenced outside the traditional boundaries of our community. When we penned our open letter to Vice President JD Vance asking him to cease his Apple Watch-wearing ways, we had no idea the response it would elicit in mainstream media, including a write-up in The Daily Mail entitled, “Espionage expert's chilling plea to JD Vance”. In addition, W.O.E. was called out in The Financial Times for our discussion on the watch-wearing habits of Ahmad al-Sharaa, the defacto president of Syria who has been spotted with an ascending watch game that quickly escalated from no-name quartz to Patek Philippe. Finally, we haven’t had a chance to listen to the entire (five-hour) thing, but W.O.E. also got the nod in a popular podcast called Acquired in a Rolex-focused episode. Final Thoughts With Watches and Wonders and the majority of new watch releases looming at the end of April, there is typically something of a slowdown for watch news in the early days of Q1. Looking beyond our usual dose of watch-related crime and the recent illuminating report on the Swiss watch industry, that was precisely the case this past month, which is where espionage comes in, with yet another high-profile assassination of a Pro-Russian paramilitary leader as well as the unfortunate story of a British couple being detained in Iran, supposedly for spying. This blend is exactly what the SITREP is meant to be, a one-pager providing a high-level overview of recent events related to any aspect of our community, whether that’s watches, espionage, NatSec, or the military. Whatever your reason or path of entry into our community may be, we’re here for you, but we still wouldn’t recommend motorcycle touring in Iran. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - January 2025

The link between watches, the military, and espionage is nothing new. Long before the advent of inexpensive digital timekeeping, there was an era where warfighters utilized mechanical watches for their intended purpose because they were simply the best tools for the job. At W.O.E., we focus on honoring and celebrating the heritage of our community. To fully understand that heritage, you have to look back to the original end-users, the OGs that cemented the lore behind some of watchmaking’s biggest names. When it comes to scrubbing the archives for photographs showcasing important military watches, our friend Justin Couture AKA The Wristorian is among the best. A lot of us (myself included) aren’t going to spend hours combing through the US National Archives hoping for a great shot of a Seiko 6309, but that’s exactly what Justin does, and it pays off. In this Dispatch, we asked Justin to share some of his favorite watches “in action” on the wrists of servicemembers from military organizations the world over. It’s important to remember that long before Omega paid big bucks for K-Pop superstars to don Aqua Terras, hard men dived, dismantled bombs, and waged war with real watches on their wrists. Today, with Justin’s help, we celebrate the legends who were living the Use Your Tools ethos long before it was cool. Legendary Timepieces Photographed On The Wrists Of Military & SpecOps By Justin Couture Hamilton MIL-W-4637B & Breitling Chronomat - US Army It just wouldn’t be a proper Watches of Espionage Dispatch without a bit of sketchy Breitling content to kick it off. The Airborne Ranger, from the 2nd Battalion, 75th Infantry pictured here is sporting two timepieces along with an M-161A rifle. Photographed in 1981 near “Rosy Roads” Naval Station in Puerto Rico, this shot was captured during “Ocean Venture”, a naval exercise that involved 120,000 service personnel, 250 ships, and about 1,000 or more planes from 14 different countries. The smaller of the two watches appears to be a standard-issue Hamilton MIL-W-4637B. The other watch was trickier to identify but looks to be a quartz Breitling Chronomat reference 9108. The giveaways are the size, the case shape on the crown side, the bracelet, and the distinctive bezel. It’s a rare model to spot anywhere, let alone in this environment. The reason this operator is wearing two watches on one wrist is anyone’s guess. It could be for redundancy—the old “two is one and one is none” mentality. It would also have allowed him to track two different time zones without a GMT function. Benrus Type I – US Navy Here is a photograph of not one, but two Benrus Type Is in action in 1981. This famously sterile-dialed tool watch was never available for civilian purchase. It epitomizes the concept of “everything you need and nothing you don’t”. One of the most legendary military-only tool watch designs ever made, the Benrus Type I and later Type II were produced in response to a US Government specification during the Vietnam War and exclusively issued to special operations forces with a few select pieces also allegedly being provided to CIA Officers with completely sterilized casebacks. The four operators pictured here are being transported by helicopter to the ammunition ship USS Mount Hood (AE-29). There they will assist with search and rescue operations for a beached frigate called the RPS Datu Kalantiaw (PS-76). The frigate was a casualty of Typhoon Clara and ultimately 19 individuals were rescued from the wreckage, while 52 bodies were recovered. Rolex GMT Master 1675 – US Air Force The Rolex GMT Master is a watch that shows up often in archival military photos. I see them time and time again—a testament to both their status and durability. This image, taken in 1978, shows Astronaut Judy Resnick inflating a solar water still (a device that makes saltwater safe to drink) during 20-man life raft training on Biscayne Bay near Homestead Air Force Base (HAFB). This exercise was conducted by the Air Training Command Sea Survival School. The man on the right is seen wearing a Ref. 1675 Rolex GMT-Master. The hallmark bi-colored bezel can be made out just under his sleeve. Resnick lost her life in the Challenger disaster on January 28, 1986, but left an indelible mark in the history books as a pioneering female aviator and astronaut. Rolex Submariner 6536 - Royal New Zealand Air Force “Vanguard 18” was a joint military exercise that occurred in 1971 to promote effective cooperation between various armed forces. This image shows an RNZAF Deployment Commander greeting a Lieutenant Colonel from the Singaporean Air Force. The former, seen on the right, is wearing what appears to be a Rolex Submariner reference 6536. Interestingly, this was a transitional reference for Rolex and was only produced for a brief window in the mid-1950s. Given the date that this photo was taken in Tengah, Singapore the Submariner would have been around 15 years old at the time. Safe to say that, if we could zoom in even closer, the watch had probably earned a fair number of battle scars by this time. Rolex Explorer 5500 – US Navy Onboard the USS John Hancock (DD-981) in 1982, a Data Systems Technician re-enlists somewhere in the Mediterranean Sea. The Hancock was a Spruance-class destroyer commissioned in the late 1970s that operated out of Charleston, South Carolina until moving to Florida in 1987. The officers in the photo are part of the US Navy 6th Fleet whose purpose was to “...conduct the full range of Maritime Operations and Theater Security Cooperation missions, in concert with coalition, joint, interagency, and other parties, in order to advance security and stability in Europe and Africa.” The watch on the wrist of the officer on the right appears to be a Rolex Explorer. More specifically, given the size and the single line of text above the 6 o’clock numeral, it is likely a reference 5500 Explorer. This is a smaller and less common model in the range but built to the same standards of water resistance and robustness. In other words, a no-fluff tool fit for the job. Tudor Submariner 94110 “Snowflake” – US Air Force If you follow W.O.E. closely, you’re no stranger to the close historical bonds, which continue to this day, between Tudor and the military. This image, taken in 1985, shows a member of the US Air Force combat control team using a theodolite to track a weather balloon during the joint Honduran/US Exercise CABANAS '85. On his wrist is a Tudor Submariner Snowflake ref. 94110. What makes this particular shot so interesting is that he seems to have something tucked under the watch. While this may not be the most common place to store an object of importance, generally speaking, there are multiple examples I have seen in military photos. A good illustration of this is a wedding band kept on a nylon pull-through strap. As for what is underneath this Tudor, I suspect it could be a cap for the equipment. It’s tough to say but a unique storage solution, nevertheless. I would love to hear insight from the community in the comments. Seiko 6105 “Willard” – Royal New Zealand Air Force I’ve written on multiple occasions about the prevalence of Seiko divers throughout history: military, adventure, exploration, diving, etc. If you haven’t read Ben’s take on the ubiquity of the Seiko “turtle” among military personnel, check it out and you’ll see what I am talking about. Often accompanying these Seiko dive watches is a pronounced mustache. Turns out, a solid ‘stache is the perfect complement to a Seiko diver. As evidenced by this photo from 1983, there is an even smaller intersection where the ‘stache and the Seiko 6105 are accompanied by a bagpipe, and I think that’s worth celebrating. The gentleman in the photo, a member of the Royal New Zealand Air Force, is wearing the classic Seiko 6105, alternatively called the “Captain Willard” (a reference to its appearance in the film Apocalypse Now). Bonus points for the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk in the background. Seiko 7548 – US Army Now back to a few watches from the land of the rising sun. This image from October of 1984 shows US Air Force personnel catching giant freshwater prawns in the Philippines during a jungle survival training exercise. These prawns, known locally as ulang, can grow up to a foot long, making them a great source of protein in a survival scenario. On the wrist of the gentleman on the right is a red and blue “Pepsi” bezel Seiko 7548. This watch represented Seiko’s first foray into quartz-powered dive watches in 1978 and quickly grew a following among the armed forces. In fact, it became a real classic, not just among military personnel, but throughout virtually all active pursuits of the 1980’s. I’ve seen the same model on mountaineers, military generals, marine veterinarians, and everything in between, which speaks volumes to the capability and performance of the model. Seiko 6139-7010 – Japan Air Self-Defense Force Since I began collecting, I’ve been a major subscriber to the Cole Penning ton ethos to Always Read The Caseback. This image shows Japanese personnel assigned to the Rescue Coordination Center at the start of Operation Cope Angel, held off the coast of Okinawa, Japan in 1980. The man on the right is wearing a Seiko 6139-7010 chronograph. The 6139 line consisted of a multitude of different models, but the Arabic numerals of the aforementioned model make it ultra-legible and appropriate for military use. Though not many examples are known, this model was issued to the Japan Air Self-Defense Force (JASDF) and can be identified as an issued model by the cherry blossom and wings on the caseback. There is also a similar model with an anchor and wings given to the Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF). A decade ago this watch would have been entirely unknown as an issued piece, making this a great illustration of the knowledge that has yet to be gained among the military and watch enthusiast communities. Citizen Aqualand & Seiko H558 “Arnie” – Royal Australian Navy EOD and US Navy This 1991 image shows a member of a U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) team examining a device with members of a Royal Australian Navy EOD unit. At the time, they were working together to clear mines from Kuwait’s harbors following Operation Desert Storm. In terms of tool watches per image, this photo scores highly. If you look closely, you can spot both a Citizen Aqualand and a Seiko H558 “Arnie”—two classics, especially in the early 1990s when ana-digi dive watches found their footing. The former was known to be issued watch to Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers throughout the 80s and into the 90s. The latter, though not known to be issued, was favored by military personnel for its unique, shrouded design and water resistance. Both of these watches were the apex predators of analog/digital performance at the time and offered real functionality for military work. Doxa Professional SUB300T – Korean Military I don’t know about you—but if someone asked me what watch I would expect from Republic of Korea Special Forces operators in 1985—I probably would have said Seiko. Maybe Citizen? I would not have guessed Doxa. That’s the fun thing about these combing through the archives, though, you can unearth unexpected gems. Here is a shot of Special Reconnaissance ROK Marine members offloading from a C-130E Hercules aircraft at Yoju Airfield during Exercise TEAM SPIRIT in 1985 and on one of their wrists, you can see a Doxa SUB 300T. I initially thought it was a yellow-dialed “Divingstar”—but after stumbling across an example of a Korean military-issued Doxa Professional, that seems more likely. The SUB 300/300T was known to be favored by famed divers like Jacques Cousteau and has been issued by many international militaries, mostly for naval pursuits. CWC Chronograph – Royal Air Force This image, taken in 1980, displays a Royal Air Force pilot (left) as he helps a U.S. Air Force pilot don his flight suit during an RAF visit to the Spangdahlem Airbase in Germany. On his wrist is a CWC chronograph. These CWC models featured broad hands and clear markings, making them ideal for pilots. The dials bore the “broad arrow” symbol, a traditional indication used to designate British military property. I’ve long admired CWCs current and past models along with their extensive history of issuing models to various military branches. To me, seeing a watch like this—void of any marketing angle and being used exactly as intended—that’s what it’s all about. More Than Just Old Photos Sure, we’ve all heard of influencers, but I would argue you’re better off taking your watch-wearing advice from people stretching their watches beyond a wrist shot at the closest vegan cafe. If you want to understand the history and significance of tool watches, in particular, you must look to the original practitioners: the divers, pilots, special operators, and intelligence professionals, and see what worked for them. Chances are, even in a world dominated by the Apple Watch, it’ll work for you too. About The Author: Justin Couture is a Kansas City-based freelance writer and vintage watch enthusiast. In 2020, he founded @The_Wristorian, an Instagram page dedicated to providing historical context around military and civilian tool watches. Horological pursuits aside, Justin is a proud father, husband, and paramedic of 16 years.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air  

The USG Finds An Unlikely Culprit That “Prevents Time Travel” - In the W.O.E. world, we focus on watches used as tools to get the job done. But in one fascinating historical instance, a watch was part of the problem rather than the solution. According to CIA, a simple wristwatch may have prevented some test subjects from traveling through time and space, by grounding them in the present.

Seiko, Hamilton, Timex, & More - Our Top Picks For Starter Watches Of Espionage - One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What should I buy for my first watch?”

Take a look at any photo of a special operator during the Global War On Terror, and there’s a decent chance they will be “inside-wristing”, meaning wearing their watch on the inside of the wrist. But why is this the case? Does wearing a watch this way add genuine utility or is this simply a trend among the LARPing crowd? In the newest episode of W.O.E. TV, we discuss the legitimate benefits and cultural factors behind wearing a watch this way. To be clear, if you’re someone who wears a watch this way to be “tacti-cool”, we’re not here to change your mind, simply to inform. We don’t make the rules. Enjoy episode thirteen of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

The Evolution Of A Rebel Leader Turned Syrian President, Told Through His Watches - Tactical Watch, Seiko, Omega, & Patek Philippe At Watches of Espionage, we explore national security and current events through the lens of timepieces. Today we take a close look at the watches of Abu Mohammad al-Jolani, the former Al-Qaeda in Iraq fighter who led the movement to overthrow the Syrian regime, now serving as President of Syria. As he ascended to power, al-Jolani’s watches changed to match his persona, communicating a message to his supporters and the international community. In intelligence and national security, a watch is a tool. In this case, al-Jolani’s watch serves as a tool to telegraph a persona. When Syria’s Bashar al-Assad was overthrown at the beginning of December 2024, ending some five decades of rule by the Assad regime, I was—along with the rest of the world—genuinely surprised by the speed with which the events transpired. With extensive experience living, working, and traveling throughout the Middle East, including to Syria, I would have expected the Assad family to maintain its totalitarian stranglehold over its 25 million citizens all but indefinitely. So how could this have happened? And where do watches fit into the picture? Al-Jolani made the change from a seemingly-generic quartz watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman. At the center of the conversation was one man: the “rebel leader” then called Abu Mohammed al-Jolani, who led the effort to overthrow Assad. Despite a challenging background, ties to the Islamic State and al-Qaeda, and a stint in Iraq’s infamous Camp Bucca internment facility, al-Jolani has demonstrated an impressive grasp on the importance of communication and influence since becoming Syria’s new head of state. While his attire was perhaps the first to change—from olive drab fatigues to a business suit—for a trained eye, nowhere was this shift from Jihadist to political leader more apparent than with al-Jolani’s watches. For al-Jolani, who has since dropped his nom de guerre in favor of his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, his choice of watches symbolizes an intriguing step-by-step ascent from a scrappy rebel leader, to a budding diplomat, and eventually, to a fully fledged statesman complete with a Patek Philippe, all taking place in record time. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. Unknown Tactical Watch A photograph from the first days of al-Sharaa’s rule showing his mysterious black tool watch. As the first images of a triumphant al-Sharaa in Damascus hit the media on 08 December 2024, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: a thick beard and olive drab fatigues. In our earliest discussion of the events, we incorrectly identified the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist as a black plastic Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but as more photos of the events have surfaced, it would appear the watch is some kind of all-black, likely quartz analog watch with an integrated rubber strap. Despite our best efforts, we have yet to identify the watch. If anyone out there knows, we’ll be sure to update this article. Another angle shows the watch. Does anyone have any idea about this one? In any case, the tactical-looking watch was in line with al-Sharaa’s messaging at the time, portraying himself as the militant Jihadist leader commanding troops on the road to Damascus. And while that image served al-Sharaa’s needs, it would appear the new Syrian leader had a long-term plan in mind with regards to his look, quickly making the swap to business suits and a more elegant timepiece. It happened so quickly, it would appear significant forethought went into al-Sharaa’s appearance and watches. Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 - $150 al-Sharaa wearing his Seiko in the days following the overthrow of the Assad regime. In the days immediately following the overthrow of the Assad regime, al-Sharaa began a campaign to court the media, inviting a series of politicians and delegates to Damascus for highly publicized displays of the “new Syria”. Along with some fresh threads, al-Sharaa upgraded the black tactical watch to a more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1. The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 was Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice in his early days as Syria’s leader. While it isn’t expensive by watch standards at around $150, the Seiko looked the part with a new, more business-like but still modest al-Sharaa and accompanied him on a series of high-profile meetings in his quest for international legitimacy. Seiko is an intriguing brand, serving as one of the world’s largest watchmakers while also balancing a passionate following among the military and watch enthusiasts with mainstream commercial success, including at least one Middle Eastern head of state. We discussed al-Sharaa’s then two-piece watch collection in our SITREP back in December, thinking that at least the watch story had run its course. As it turns out, al-Sharaa is more of a watch guy than we ever imagined and has significantly leveled up his timepiece game in recent weeks, starting with a Swiss luxury icon from one of the biggest names in the business. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900 An Omega Seamaster Diver 300 on al-Sharaa’s wrist as he met with a Qatari delegation. On 23 December, al-Sharaa stepped up his game as he met with a delegation from the Qatari Foreign Ministry. Given away by its distinctive early 90s bracelet design and helium escape valve, the watch was an Omega Seamaster Diver 300 in the more seldom-seen grey dial/navy blue bezel configuration. Often associated with James Bond for its predecessor's antics on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in 1995’s GoldenEye, the Seamaster Professional has become one of the single most popular luxury dive watches in the world, serving as an entry-point to luxury watchmaking for many, including al-Sharaa. The Seamaster appeared to be a mainstay on the al-Sharaa’s wrist for weeks to follow, and we might have once again called our conversation on the leader’s watches complete. After all, the Seamaster hits a nice sweet spot of not feeling overly expensive or luxurious while still representing a big jump above a Seiko. Also favored by former US President Joe Biden, the Seamaster is not cheap, but a world leader likely won’t be accused of corruption or anything else interesting simply for wearing an Omega, which is where our next and (maybe) final watch comes into play. Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G - $81,610 Moving from a $150 Seiko to an Omega with a retail price of around $6k is a leap, sure, but nothing compared to al-Sharaa’s next move. Last week, al-Sharaa, who is now officially the “Interim President” of Syria, visited Saudi Arabia to meet with Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), the Kingdom’s de facto ruler, in Riyadh. The visit was in keeping with al-Sharaa’s recent MO, shaking hands in front of the camera with as many prominent leaders in the region as possible in an attempt to earn favor for Syria’s new political direction. What was out of place was the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist, a white gold Patek Philippe 5930G. The watch, which offers “world time” functionality as well as a chronograph, goes for over $80k new and closer to $50k on the secondary market, a significant leap from a Seamaster to say the least. Where the Patek came from is anyone’s guess, but the fact that it was first spotted in Saudi does offer clues depending on your level of pessimism. We have discussed the role of watches in diplomacy and the Middle East and the Saudis in particular are known for cementing relationships with the gift of watches. We assess with medium confidence that this watch could have been a gift from MBS or another Saudi official. Regardless, the Patek Philippe stands in stark contrast to the black tactical watch the rebel leader wore just two months prior and marks a clear evolution to a leader in the Middle East. Final Thoughts If you made a movie about a fictitious rebel leader becoming the legitimate president of a Middle Eastern country, I’m not sure you could have cast the watches any better, representing a near-perfect four-watch staircase demonstrating al-Sharaa’s rise from Jihadi fighter to president. Starting with a humble black “tactical” watch fit for battle fatigues, then swapping for an elegant Seiko to pair with political business attire, to one of the biggest names in luxury watches in the Omega Seamaster, and finally a complicated Patek Philippe, one of the most storied (and expensive) names in watchmaking, al-Sharaa has proven once again that there is more to every watch than meets the eye. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bribes & Operational Gifts - The Role Of Timepieces In Clandestine Operations

An Open Letter To JD Vance From A Former CIA Officer On The Counterintelligence Risks Of Smartwatches Mr. Vice President, Congratulations on your ascendancy to the Vice President of the United States of America. While we are an apolitical platform, we wish you nothing but success, the country depends on you.   In a recent picture of you onboard Air Force Two, we couldn't help but notice the Apple Watch on your left wrist. As a former CIA case officer who spent most of his adult life recruiting spies and stealing secrets, I feel implored to highlight some of the potential vulnerabilities of your smartwatch before suggesting a simple solution. As Vice President, you are now a priority intelligence collection target for the world's most capable bad actors, and the Apple Watch is an effective vector for potential exploitation. We do not doubt that hostile intelligence services are working around the clock to exploit (“hack”) your devices and would be genuinely surprised if they haven't already. The photograph in question, reportedly from 28 Jan 2025. To be clear, we are not anti-technology or troglodytes. We are big fans of Apple and believe the iPhone and iPad are two of the most consequential products of the last century. For most people, the Apple Watch is a great tool and offers significant lifestyle benefits: fitness tracking, optimizing communication, and sleep and health monitoring. But you are not like most people. You are one of the most powerful world leaders and thus a priority target for extremely capable hostile intelligence services, including Russia, China, Iran, and North Korea—all of which are considered Advanced Persistent Threats (APTs).   From an intelligence perspective, the Apple Watch offers unique data collection and access for exploitation and even manipulation. Of particular concern, the watch contains a microphone that when worn is capable of detecting and recording the user's conversations. As Vice President, nearly everything you say and do is of interest to foreign intelligence services (FIS). This includes not only strategic-level discussions with the President and National Security officials but also conversations with your wife, political donors, and college friends. While the Apple Watch has security features in place, you must operate under the assumption that it can be compromised and exploited. Through a process called hot micing, the microphone can be remotely activated or set to passively collect audio without the wearer's knowledge. Additionally, the Apple Watch collects GPS location, movement, and biometric data including heart rate and sleep patterns, representing potential vulnerabilities for exploitation by bad actors. If the device is compromised, all of this data is available to a hostile intelligence service.   French newspaper Le Monde has exposed a number of intelligence links using data from Strava, a popular fitness tracker. (Photo Credit: Le Monde) Further, the average iOS Apple operating system has an estimated 40-80 third-party applications installed. Many of these apps collect data and resell it to advertisers. If a product is free, you are the product. While in theory this data is anonymized, we have our doubts. Just ask your new Secret Service Director Sean Curran. According to an investigative report by the French newspaper Le Monde, data collected through the fitness app Strava was leveraged to identify 26 Secret Service agents as well as the locations of sensitive meetings. “It's this new app—you put in your Social Security number, and it makes you look like a cat.” (Credit: New York Times) As you are likely aware, connected devices are prohibited in Sensitive Compartmented Information Facilities (SCIF) and regardless of location, many of your conversations occur at this level or higher. In September 2024, the US Army issued a warning to Department of Defense (DOD) personnel on the counterintelligence (CI) risks of smartwatches with a social media campaign: “Smartwatches can transmit sensitive information. Don’t be an insider threat - Think before you use a smartwatch in the field or on deployment.” While state-sponsored hackers (APTs) are likely the greatest threat, it is important to understand that private companies allegedly also maintain this capability. In 2021, Apple reportedly sued Israeli cybersecurity firm NSO Group: “NSO Group creates sophisticated, state-sponsored surveillance technology that allows its highly targeted spyware to surveil its victims. These attacks are only aimed at a very small number of users, and they impact people across multiple platforms, including iOS and Android. Researchers and journalists have publicly documented a history of this spyware being abused to target journalists, activists, dissidents, academics, and government officials.” (Credit: New York Times) To be very clear, there is nothing inherently wrong with Apple products or the Apple Watch. In fact, we would say that they are probably one of the most secure, or least vulnerable, tech products on the market. That said, any device can be hacked.   If you don’t believe us, we encourage you to reach out to your newly appointed Director of CIA John Ratcliffe and Director of National Security Agency (NSA) General Timothy D. Haugh for a demonstration of our capabilities. You will be amazed. I am a firm believer that you should not highlight a problem without providing a solution. So here are three watches we would recommend, not only are they great tools backed by intriguing heritage, but they are also all completely safe from the prying eyes of foreign intelligence services. Sangin Instruments Neptune We are told there is no such thing as a “former” Marine. Given your time serving in the Corps, we can’t help but think a watch described as “A Marine Raider Rolex” would fit the bill. Founded by Jacob Servantes, a Marine Special Operations veteran, Sangin produces a range of capable tool watches informed by the founder’s military experience and appreciation of watches. The Neptune is on the more refined end of the brand’s spectrum, capable of 300 meters of water resistance while still looking elegant enough for White House wear. Marathon 41mm Diver’s Automatic (GSAR) Another brand with legitimate links to the Marine Corps is Marathon, a Canadian brand that has seen its watches issued to numerous US Military units including Marine Force Reconnaissance. For your purposes, we would recommend the automatic GSAR, which is powered by a Swiss Sellita movement while still offering significant water resistance and tritium tubes for constant nighttime legibility. Besides, if President Trump really does make Canada the 51st state, this watch will be almost made in the USA (just kidding… kind of). Breitling “White House” Aerospace Thus far, we’ve suggested commercially available watches, but why not take advantage of your new position just a little bit with a customized Breitling “unit watch” that is only available to White House staff? The so-called “White House” Breitling Aerospace is a customized version of one of the brand’s most popular models from a military and intelligence perspective, offering a broad swath of digital timekeeping functions that will help to offset the Apple Watch loss without having potentially dangerous counterintelligence implications. During the previous Trump administration, someone set up a program where White House employees could order a version of several models with the White House Seal on the dial as well as a special caseback engraving. As a note, we’re not calling you sketchy, but it’s important to know that Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. It's Never Just a Watch Whether you know it or not, as a US Marine, you are a member of the W.O.E. community. Given the gravity of your new role, a watch may seem like an insignificant nuisance. But decades from now when you move on in life, the watch you wear over the next four years will be a talisman of your service to this country and treasured by your grandchildren. Unless it's an Apple Watch, in that case, it will be in a landfill. Sincerely,  -Watches of Espionage (W.O.E.) For more information on this topic check out our article on the Counterintelligence Risks of Smartwatches as well as our Youtube video HERE. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches Of The Trump Administration This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

For CIA Leadership Analysts seeking to learn everything they can about a world leader, even something as seemingly insignificant as a wristwatch can play a role in assembling a complete profile to be shared with key decision-makers including the president. Whether it’s Kim Jong Un’s IWC, Putin’s insane luxury watch collection, or a Panerai favored by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, remember: A watch is never just a watch.   In the newest episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we discuss the watches worn by several prominent world leaders. Leaning into our experience from the world of intelligence, we provide examples of the types of insights that can be gleaned from the watches world leaders choose to wear on their wrists. Enjoy episode twelve of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

A US Marshals Watch Auction, Submarine Smartwatch Intel Leaks, A Celeb’s Stolen Rolex Returned, & More   The watch world moves at a sometimes frenetic pace, making it difficult to believe we’re already closing the door on the first month of 2025. With that being said, we’re true believers in taking the time to slow down and reflect on the happenings of the past month in our recurring SITREP (Situation Report) series. If you’re new here, this monthly after-action report of sorts is our rundown of the watch and espionage-related events we believe you will find interesting, all coupled with our commentary. No matter how you slice it, the biggest news in the United States was the inauguration of President Donald Trump, kicking off his second go-around as the commander-in-chief. We already provided our unbiased look at the watches of the incoming administration HERE in great detail so we’ll be leaving the new White House out of this SITREP if at all possible. Despite a lingering holiday hangover and the weight of a political regime change, January brought a lot to the table. From a U.S. Marshals Service auction including luxury timepieces that look straight out of the cartel lookbook, to a celebrity’s unlikely recovery of a stolen Rolex, to a French submarine’s unfortunate cyber security failures, and a whole lot more, it’s time for the first SITREP of 2025. Whoa, Keanu Reeves’ Stolen Rolex Recovered In Chile If there’s one thing we know from our monthly check-in on global watch crime, it is that in most cases, stolen watches are never recovered. Post theft, these watches are typically fed into a transnational illicit network and later sold on the black market far afield from the original crime scene. Well, in an ending good enough for Hollywood, three watches stolen from Point Break star Keanu Reeves’ home in California in 2023 were miraculously recovered in Chile following a raid of four houses related to local burglaries and the subsequent arrest of one 21-year-old individual. An Instagram post from a member of Reeves’ stunt team shows a Rolex Submariner similar to the one stolen from the actor’s home and later recovered in Chile. One of the watches, a Rolex Submariner, is engraved with the actor’s name and “2021, JW4, Thank You, The John Wick Five”. The watch appears to be from the set gifted by the actor to his stunt team after filming 2023’s John Wick: Chapter Four. At least according to social media, Keanu Reeves is rumored to be a good dude, so it’s great to see at least one fairytale ending in a stolen watch story. For even more on the alarming trend of criminal gangs specifically targeting Rolex and other luxury watches, check out the latest video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. Sadly, Reeves does not make an appearance. Former New Jersey Senator Sentenced In Corruption Trial After Receiving Gifts Including A Patek Philippe   (Photo Credit: Alex Kent/AFP) Former Senator Bob Menendez was sentenced to eleven years in prison after being found guilty in a federal corruption trial. He received expensive gifts, including a Patek Phillipe watch, from a wealthy businessman in return for an introduction to Qatari government officials. Back in October, Menendez was charged with acting as an "agent" of the Egyptian government and allegedly accepting bribes in the form of gold bars, cash, and a Mercedes, with his total illicit compensation totaling almost $1M according to court documents. Businessman Fred Daibes reportedly sent Sen. Menendez the above images of additional watches with the casual phrase -“How about one of these.” In total, Menendez was convicted of 16 counts, including bribery, extortion, wire fraud, obstruction of justice, and acting as a foreign agent.  Prosecutors successfully argued that the senator tried to use his power to advance Egyptian military interests, interfere in criminal prosecutions, and secure investment from Qatari officials. As we have discussed, watches play a significant role in espionage operations, being more difficult to trace, highly liquid, and less blatant than cash, a Mercedes, or gold bars. U.S. Marshals Service Auctions Patek & Rolex Models With Sketchy  Background & Plenty Of Diamonds (Photo Credit: USMS/Gaston & Sheehan) If you’re a watch nerd, you’ve likely heard of Christie’s, Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams—some of the biggest names in the big business of watch auctions. If not, our friend Tony Traina recently shared an excellent primer on the sometimes shadowy world of watch auctions. We sometimes wonder what happens to watches seized by US federal law enforcement agencies, and you may be surprised to learn that not only are these watches sold at auction, but also that some of the world’s most serious brands and references are present and accounted for. (Photo Credit: USMS/Gaston & Sheehan) In the U.S. Marshals Service Luxury Watch Auction that closed on January 16th, the top lot was a Tiffany dial Patek Philippe Nautilus that hammered for an eye-watering $1,059,855, with the entire auction intriguingly forgoing buyer’s premiums. Some of the other heavy hitters included a Rolex “Rainbow” Daytona with the full factory pave diamond treatment that went for $455,100 and another Nautilus, this time in platinum and set with emeralds, for $930,300. The question then becomes, where the heck are these watches coming from? Looking for the perfect watch to match your gold AK? Be sure to check out the next USMS luxury watch auction. While the auction itself, which is operated by an auctioneer called Gaston & Sheehan on behalf of the USMS, (unfortunately) doesn’t specifically state the provenance of any of the watches, it’s reasonable to assume they come from seizures associated with various law enforcement actions. Whether that’s from murderous cartel bosses with solid gold AKs or more polished white-collar criminals is unclear, but an auction like this likely serves as a legitimate source of income for a federal agency like the Marshals Service. Who said crime doesn’t pay? French Nuclear Sub Crew Shares Sensitive Information Using Smartwatches (Image Credit: Le Monde) Despite offering legitimate lifestyle benefits, smartwatches and other connected devices present serious counterintelligence risks. We’ve spoken at length about the challenges presented by smartwatches like the Apple Watch for intelligence officers, and it would appear a Marine Nationale (French Navy) nuclear submarine crew has just provided another example of the potential gravity of the situation. The Île Longue military base in Brest harbor is home to France’s four nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarines. As you’d imagine, everything on base is top secret, everyone is subject to search, and connected devices aren’t allowed in many areas. An officer exits the Suffren, the French Navy's newest nuclear attack submarine. (Photo Credit: Nicolas Tucat /AFP) Still, according to Le Monde and other sources, 16 submariners recently inadvertently shared top-secret patrol schedules and geographic data about the submarine base by uploading on-base fitness activity to Strava after recording a run on their smartwatches. The incident serves as another important reminder of how crucial it is for individuals to safeguard their data, even if it means missing your baguette and café-related notifications or having to catalog your fitness activities the old-fashioned way. Given the long-standing historical link between the Marine Nationale and Tudor and the lack of counterintelligence risks inherent in mechanical watchmaking, I can’t help but wonder if these dudes wouldn’t be better off with a Pelagos FXD. Catherine Villeneuve To Leave Bremont After Fifteen Years With Military Projects Division (Photo Credit: Bremont) After a massive fifteen years with the brand as the Head of Military and Special Projects, Catherine Villeneuve is set to move on from Bremont. Where she’ll go next is as yet unknown, but it’s more than worth taking a moment to recognize her efforts in acting as a liaison between a watch brand and numerous global military organizations. Sometimes lovingly called the “third founder” of the brand after Giles and Nick English, Villeneuve helped to create over 500 military “unit watches” for military organizations the world over. W.O.E. had to opportunity to visit Catherine at Bremont in 2023 and we are sad to see her leave. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Whether this move has to do with the brand’s 2023 investment by American billionaire Bill Ackman and others and the ensuing exit of the founders, we do not know, but what is clear is that Villeneuve’s loss will be felt. Despite close ties between our community and watches, brands are often ineffective in dealing with military organizations which have their own cultures and customs. Having a full-time employee dedicated to bridging that gap did wonders for Bremont, and we can only hope to see other brands adopt similar roles in the future. For more on Bremont’s unit watch program, check out Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division.   W.O.E. In The Press (Photo Credit: Devin Pennypacker) While it’s never our intention, as our community grows to include more “mainstream” watch nerds, Watches of Espionage occasionally finds itself mentioned in the press. This past month, one of our custom-designed tools, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass, was reviewed in detail on Worn & Wound by our friend Devin Pennypacker. For those who have asked, the demand for the compass has been incredible, and we are working hard to get those back in stock soon. Click HERE to read Devin’s review. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./Brock Stevens) Our compass also made it into the virtual pages of GQ, where Cam Wolf argues that accessories like the Submersible Wrist compass will be the next big thing for watch enthusiasts. For us, the enduring legacy of wrist compasses in use by SpecOps and the military is our driving factor, but we’re also cool with fashionistas getting in on the Use Your Tools lifestyle. That said, (unless all expenses are paid) we won’t be attending Paris Fashion Week. Click HERE to read Cam’s article. Final Thoughts Some months come on stronger than others, but if the past few weeks are any indication, there is plenty of excellent SITREP content on the horizon for 2025. From the unlikely return of a stolen Rolex to one of the internet’s favorite actors to ze French accidentally sharing critical submarine intelligence to a US Marshals Service auction for some of the most ostentatious watches you could hope for, January came on strong. As always, if you should come across great stories for the SITREP in the execution of any of your daily sketchy activities, be sure to send them our way. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - December 2024

Pressure Testing An Affordable Watch & Understanding Deepsea Espionage By Benjamin Lowry While the stories we tell typically explore the world of intelligence in the terrestrial sense, espionage and the deep sea have been closely linked for decades. Starting during the Cold War, a shadowy conflict has been waged on the ocean floor. From submarines and divers tapping (or cutting) cables to deepsea acoustic listening stations and the clandestine recovery of sensitive materials, controlling and monitoring the deep ocean is an unfamiliar yet critical component of intelligence and modern warfare. Brands like Rolex and Omega will often tout their deepsea capabilities with the Rolex Deepsea Challenge rated to 11,000 meters (36,090 feet) and the Omega Ultra Deep coming in at a lesser but still ridiculous 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) of theoretical water resistance. But what about a cheap Casio often associated with terrorists and hipsters? With around $15 and some engineering know-how, can an affordable watch also venture into the deep ocean? Setting the stage for undersea espionage to follow, the CIA’s Glomar Explorer was a ship designed to secretly raise a sunken Soviet submarine to recover its nuclear warheads. (Photo Credit: CIA) At W.O.E., watches are the lens through which we view history and current events. In this Dispatch, we’ll take a Casio F91W—a cheap digital tool watch—almost 5,000 meters (16,400 feet) under the sea, setting the stage for a broader discussion on the deep ocean’s role in the wilderness of mirrors. As a Coast Guard veteran and former commercial diver, I’m no expert on the intersection of engineering and espionage at depth. Luckily, I know people. Pressure Testing A Casio F91W Our friend Josh’s Omega Planet Ocean on the manipulator arm of an ROV. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) A couple of years ago, a fellow watch enthusiast named Josh Konicki reached out saying he worked in the unique world of deep ocean salvage, often contracting for the US Government to recover downed fighter jets, lost ordnance, and other sensitive items the military doesn’t want lying around the ocean floor. In 2022, Josh and his team helped the Navy recover an F35 that crashed into the South China Sea from the deck of an aircraft carrier. It’s scary to imagine the repercussions if our adversaries were to recover and reverse engineer one of the world’s most advanced fighter jet platforms—not good. Photo Credit: US Navy Like many whose lives revolve around the sea, Josh is a watch guy, and when he asked if I would be interested in seeing a Casio F91W dive deep on the manipulator arm of an ROV or remotely operated vehicle, I answered with an enthusiastic “hell yeah”. Available on Amazon for precisely $13.16, the F91W is among the most common watches on the planet, with some three million units produced on average per year since the watch’s inception in 1989. This implies there are well over 100 million F91Ws out there in the world, a crazy statistic. Utilized as a tool by everyone from Usama Bin Laden to US SpecOps and art school grads at your local farmers market, the F91W is a straightforward digital watch equipped with a resin case, strap, and crystal and paired with simple digital timekeeping functions and one of the worst backlights in watch history. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Many have argued the F91W is the least expensive watch that is actually worth buying, and I tend to agree. For its price, it’s one of the most capable watches you can get. However, while the F91W is many things to many people, most would fall well short of calling it a dive watch, at least unless you’re willing to get a little bit handy, risk your $15 investment, and have some mineral oil lying around. Filling A Watch With Oil & Going Deep For Josh, whose job is to build and maintain equipment for deepsea salvage and recovery, filling a digital watch with oil is no big deal. Incredibly, after this relatively simple and cheap modification, a watch—even one as attainable as the F91W—becomes all but pressure-proof thanks to the almost incompressible nature of oil. The actual how-to for this “hydro-mod” is all over the internet, but suffice it to say oil-filling your Casio is relatively easy, cheap, fun, and helps if you’re planning to take your F91W five kilometers or so underwater, which is exactly the kind of thing Josh does for fun. For the deep ocean test, Josh strapped the F91W onto the manipulator arm of CURV 21, a 6,400-pound ROV belonging to the US Navy and capable of diving to around 20,000 feet. The live video feed from the ROV, which is hard-wired to the surface, means the operator can observe the watch throughout the dive. As the numbers on the depth gauge begin to rise, there’s an element of suspense as the ROV descends through the water column. The bright ambient light of the shallows gives way to the inky darkness of the depths, with nothing but small particles passing by the ROV’s lights to indicate the descent to the bottom. As the digital depth indication passes 1000 meters, 2000 meters, 3000 meters, and finally 4000 meters, the watch nerds in the room are glued to the screen waiting for the $15 watch to implode… or not. Incredibly, the F91W survives its journey to an official 4,950 meters—an astonishing 16,240 feet—and back. 4,950 meters under the surface, the pressure is approximately 7,227 pounds per square inch, which is well over three tons pressing on the watch. For context, that’s a Dodge Ram 1500 or a young adult hippopotamus parked on every inch of your F91W. As Americans, we’ll do anything to avoid the metric system, but using scientific terminology, we’re talking about a shitload of pressure. Josh with his fleet of deep-diving F91W watches and the ROV. However impressive, this example of oil-filled horological pressure resistance is not unique. There are other oil-filled watches from brands like Sinn capable of similar diving exploits, and many other watches both digital and analog quartz (mechanical watches can’t be oil-filled) that could theoretically be filled with oil and go deep. But the feat is all the more impressive when considering the F91W costs about as much as a Chipotle burrito (with guac). But wait, what is the US Government doing 5000 meters down anyway? A Brief History Of Deepsea Espionage Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When the US Navy’s SEALAB trials kicked off in 1964, the reason behind the costly and dangerous experiment was billed as an attempt to prove man’s ability to live and work in the sea. The part the Navy left out was why the US Government might require such a mode of diving in the first place, and the principal reason was intelligence collection. Even after the cancellation of SEALAB III in the wake of aquanaut Berry Cannon’s death in 1969, the Navy didn’t stop its deep-diving research, it simply stopped talking about it. Artist’s rendering of the USS Parche, one of the modified submarines used in Operation Ivy Bells. (Photo Credit: Naval Order) Before SEALAB, the Navy was already using the Sound Surveillance System, a network of underwater listening stations designed to detect and monitor submarine movements, especially the kind with nuclear capabilities. By the 1970s, American submarine espionage was in full swing, with the specially modified USS Halibut using diver lockout chambers and saturation diving methodology developed during SEALAB to attach listening equipment to Soviet communication cables in the Sea of Okhotsk as part of Operation Ivy Bells. If you haven’t read up on this insane operation, there’s a great book called Blind Man's Bluff: The Untold Story Of American Submarine Espionage, that is more than worth your time. US Navy SEAL Rick Hetzell wearing a Rolex Submariner on an Olongapo bracelet while working with his US Navy-trained sea lion. By 1974, the CIA and Howard Hughes built the Glomar Explorer, a 618-foot supposed deep-sea mining ship designed to secretly raise a sunken Soviet submarine, the K-129, from a depth of 4,900 meters (16,000 feet). The plan was for the ship to use a massive specially engineered undersea claw, which was completely hidden from the outside of the ship, to lift the sub and recover its nuclear warheads and cryptological documents. To date, it remains one of the most complex, expensive, and secretive intelligence operations of the Cold War. It gets weirder. Starting in 1960, the US Navy also maintained a fleet of trained marine mammals including dolphins and sea lions capable of locating undersea mines and even identifying and subduing adversarial combat swimmers, especially those with Russian accents. During the Cold War, espionage in the deep sea was alive and well, but what about now? A Sea Of Surveillance & Sabotage The true extent of the modern US Navy Marine Mammal Program is unknown to the public. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Today, as technology takes an increasingly prominent role in armed conflict, the deep ocean continues to serve as a little-understood domain of war. In addition to its nuclear submarines and a much improved undersea listening system that detected the implosion of the Titan submersible in 2023, the US Navy quietly maintains its Marine Mammal Program, (allegedly) primarily for Mine Countermeasures (MCM), but other recent clandestine acts on the sea floor have—once discovered—burst into the headlines. The exploded Nordsteam pipelines were determined acts of sabotage. Twenty-three natural gas pipelines connect Europe to Russia. On 26 September 2022, two of them exploded without warning 70 to 80 meters (230 to 260 feet) under the surface of the Baltic Sea. Built to carry Russian natural gas to Germany, the explosion of the Nord Stream 1 and Nord Stream 2 pipelines was captured by undersea seismic listening stations, with explosive materials later being recovered on the surface. With much of Europe facing an energy crisis, the saboteur was careful, exploiting the inherent difficulty of investigating the aftermath on the ocean floor, making attribution difficult. A Baltic Sea communications was severed by a vessel dragging its anchor across the cable numerous times. In 2024, also in the Baltic Sea, there were several more highly publicized incidents where deepsea cables carrying internet and electricity were cut by unknown agents. Cables providing internet service between Lithuania and Sweden and Finland and Germany were cut in November. Depending on the depth, operations of this type would likely require advanced marine technology involving divers, ROVs, and submersibles, well beyond the scope of any entity smaller than a major nation-state. Coincidentally, on Christmas Day, a Russian tanker allegedly packed with “spy equipment” was detained by the Finnish Border Guard after intentionally dragging its anchor across cables providing critical infrastructure. Russia, one of the possible culprits for at least some of the recent undersea acts of espionage, is known to operate a “shadow fleet” of civilian-registered vessels outfitted to conduct intelligence and sabotage operations. Eagle S, an alleged Russian “spy tanker” was seized by the Finnish Border Guard on Christmas Day, 2024. Whether these covert operators wear Vostok Amphibias or F91Ws or something else is anyone’s guess. They don’t appear to have a fleet Instagram page. Home to numerous utility and communications cables, not to mention submarines armed with nuclear weapons, and at least one Casio F91W, the sea floor is a key player in global espionage operations both then and now. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Casio F-91W, the Preferred Watch of Terrorists *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on the link to a book in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

Rolex, Omega, Timex, & Patek Philippe Worn By US Political Leaders  As Donald Trump is once again sworn in as the President of the United States, we offer an unbiased look at the watches worn by not only Trump but also members of his Cabinet and close advisors. The watches worn by US Presidents and political appointees are seldom accidental, and you can learn a lot about a person from their timepiece. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. With that in mind, we apply our Agency background and knowledge of timepieces to see what can be learned from the watches worn by the incoming administration, especially those worn by politicians with roles close to the world of intelligence and the military. A White House Breitling belonging to Cliff Sims, Trump’s pick for Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications Please keep in mind that this is simply an exercise and all in good fun. Watches of Espionage is an apolitical platform utilizing watches as the lens through which we view history and current events. If the new administration were on the other side of the aisle, we’d write the same article. If seeing a watch worn by a political figure you don’t agree with triggers you, we would recommend taking up a soothing activity like hiking, knitting, yoga, or maybe even an ice bath.  If you have additional vitriol that must be expressed, know that we very much enjoy reading your comments. Until then, let’s get started.  Donald Trump - President  During his first term, President Donald Trump notably wore several luxury timepieces including a Patek Philippe Ellipse, a Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1968, and a Rolex Day-Date Ref 18038. While he elected to not wear a watch for the inauguration yesterday as far as we could tell, we will keep our eyes peeled for which watches Trump favors during his second term. Of course, the elephant in the room is the collection of Trump-branded watches released last year, including a $100,000 tourbillon as well as more pedestrian models coming in around $500.  Despite the release with much fanfare, we have yet to spot President Trump (or anyone else) wearing any of the watches bearing the President’s name including such models as the Trump Crypto President 47, the Trump’s Smoky Blue, or the Trump Shield Warrior, a real shame if you ask us.  JD Vance - Vice President  The Vice President for Donald Trump’s second term in office is none other than JD Vance, a former United States Senator from Ohio and US Marine Corps veteran. While Vance is often photographed without a watch, when he was seen wearing a watch during the campaign, it was typically an Apple Watch. The Apple Watch serves as a sign of youth and tech savviness in keeping with Vance’s background in venture capital, but smartwatches also present serious counterintelligence risks. Will the VP continue to wear an Apple Watch in the White House? Or will the Secret Service and National Security Agency inform him of the CI-risks of smartwatches? Mike Waltz - National Security Advisor  Mike Waltz, Trump’s National Security Advisor, has quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). During his service, Waltz appears to have favored a straightforward Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but more recently, Waltz has been spotted wearing a couple of different Rolex models including a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710, and an older GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, likely reference 16710. This embodies the old-school adage that all a Special Forces man needs are a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex. Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.)  Kristi Noem - Secretary of Homeland Security Trump’s pick for the Secretary of Homeland Security is Kristi Noem, formerly known as the 33rd Governor of South Dakota. Again demonstrating the popularity of Rolex in US political circles, Noem is often photographed wearing what appears to be a 41mm DateJust. What’s more, like many members of the military and SpecOps, Noem has also been seen “inside-wristing” her Rollie for reasons we can also assume are tactical in nature. Noem inside-wristing her Rolex. Kash Patel - Director of the FBI  It almost shouldn’t have to be said at this point, but Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. Kash Patel, Trump’s pick to lead the FBI, worked as a prosecutor at DOJ and also served as the Chief of Staff to the Acting Secretary of Defense, Deputy Assistant to the President, Senior Director for CT at the NSC, and Principal Deputy to the Acting Director of DNI. He was also a DOJ liaison officer to Joint Special Operations Command (JSOC). Patel’s Breitling also appears to have the White House Seal or another insignia at three o’clock.  Patel appears to be a watch nerd with several watches in his collection.  With experience in many three-letter agencies relevant to our community, a Breitling was always going to be the right choice for Patel who has been wearing what looks to be a 46mm titanium Breitling Cockpit B50. We are told that at least one of the Breitlings is a Unit Watch from the previous Trump Administration, with the White House seal at the three o’clock position.  Pete Hegseth - Secretary of Defense  Pete Hegseth, a cohost of Fox and Friends and former Army National Guard officer, is Trump’s pick for Secretary of Defense. Intriguingly, other than older images from Hegseth’s military service in which he is seen wearing a Suunto Observer, the modern Hegseth does not appear to wear a watch. Instead, like many GWOT veterans, he appears to virtually always wear a memorial bracelet. Dating back to the Vietnam War when they were typically worn to honor soldiers captured or missing in action, today, these memorial bracelets typically display the name, rank, and date of the death of a fellow service member. Hegseth wearing a Suunto Observer during his National Guard days. Marco Rubio - Secretary of State The two may have gone toe to toe during Trump’s first run at the White House, with Rubio famously saying in 2016, “If he hadn’t inherited $200 million, you know where Donald Trump would be right now? Selling watches in Manhattan.” However, the pair appears to have worked it out, with Rubio slated to serve as Trump’s new Secretary of State. In most photographs, Rubio wears a blue Roman Numeral dial Rolex DateJust with a fluted bezel, likely a reference 126334 or something similar.  Christian Craighead - Personal Bodyguard to Donald Trump? Craighead wearing a CWC SBS, a watch designed for the Special Boat Service. According to press reporting, former Special Air Service (SAS) Warrant Officer, Christian Craighead was recently hired by Donald Trump as his personal bodyguard with a special emphasis on traveling ahead of the President’s public speaking engagements to locate potential sniper positions. Craighead burst into the public eye when he responded to a 2019 al-Shabaab attack in Nairobi, single-handedly killing five terrorists. Craig wearing a Seiko SNJ025 “Arnie”, a watch enthusiast favorite. Like many current and former members of UK Special Forces, Craighead is also something of a watch guy, having been seen wearing Rolex, Seiko, and Panerai watches in addition to releasing a collaboration with CWC, a brand that famously supplied the Special Boat Service (SBS). Hired for a role that is typically handled by the US Secret Service, it will be interesting to see how Craighead fits into the POTUS’ protection picture as a civilian. Elon Musk - Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency  While his role is technically non-governmental, it appears Elon Musk will have significant influence on the new White House through his appointment as the Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency or DOGE. It would seem that Musk’s interest in watches has waned in recent years, but he was once known for wearing a special SpaceX version of a TAG Heuer Carrera Cailbre 1887, an Omega Aqua Terra, and a Rolex DateJust way back in the day. One can only hope that when Trump’s licensed watches hit the wrists of those who have anxiously pre-ordered, there’s at least one extra lying around for the DOGE Czar.  Tulsi Gabbard - Director of National Intelligence (DNI) A former member of the US House of Representatives from Hawaii’s second district, Tulsi Gabbard was recently selected by Trump as the Director of National Intelligence. Gabbard also has a military background including service with the Hawaii National Guard including a deployment to Iraq and today serves in the Army Reserve as a lieutenant colonel. Despite her background, most photographs show Gabbard wearing what appears to be a no-name fashion watch.  John Ratcliffe - Director of CIA Trump’s pick to head the Agency as Director of CIA or DCIA is John Ratcliffe, a former Texas representative and the Director of National Intelligence from 2020 to 2021. Despite the link between espionage and watches celebrated on W.O.E., Ratcliffe appears to buck the trend as we cannot find a single photo of him wearing a watch. We believe that this makes Ratcliffe the first Director of CIA to NOT wear a watch, a significant moment in the evolution of Watches of Espionage. If anyone has further details, be sure to let us know. Meanwhile, Ratcliffe’s predecessor, Bill Burns, isn’t a watch nerd, either, he does at least wear a straightforward quartz Timex.  Cliff Sims - Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications The author of White House tell-all Team of Vipers: My 500 Extraordinary Days in the Trump White House, Cliff Sims has held several positions relating to US Intelligence and served as the Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications. With at least some interest in horology, Sims is also one of several owners we have encountered of a “White House Breitling”, a standard Breitling model (it seems like a few are available) customized with the White House Seal and a special engraved caseback. Of note, this Breitling was commissioned for the previous Trump Administration.  In Sims’ case, he hits the sketchy nail on the head with a White House Breitling Aerospace, always great to see.  Matthew Whitaker - US Ambassador to NATO  A former Attorney General, Matthew Whitaker is Trump’s choice for US Ambassador to the North Atlantic Treaty Organization or NATO. In addition to having played college football at the University of Iowa, Whitaker is at least a little bit of a watch guy, having been recently photographed wearing a two-tone Rolex Submariner, quite possibly a reference 126613. This is one of those watches that shows the breadth of the divide between the Submariner’s utilitarian diving roots and its current position on the wrist of a high-powered attorney/politician, but we still love to see it.  Sebastian Gorka - Counterterrorism Chief on the White House National Security Council A television presenter and former Deputy Assistant to the President during Trump’s first term, Sebastian Gorka, who was born in London to Hungarian parents, is the president’s pick for counterterrorism chief. What’s more, Gorka appears to be something of a watch guy. We’ve seen him wearing an Omega Planet Ocean, though it’s hard to discern the exact reference, as well as several more obscure watches on his Instagram. A Sinn 857 showcased in a 2020 post on Gorka’s Instagram. In a post from back in 2020, Gorka showed off his EDC which included a seldom-seen 857 UTC TESTAF. We’ve said this before, but if you’re rocking a Sinn, it isn’t because you picked it up at Macy’s. Watch guys are everywhere.  Final Thoughts One more shot of Cliff Sims’ White House Breitling Aerospace. Politics aside, it’s genuinely nice to see so many “real” watches worn inside the White House. Where digital tool watches (D.T.W.) and smartwatches including the ubiquitous Apple Watch have no doubt taken a sizable chunk of the top of the mechanical watch industry, certain serious individuals continue to value timepieces. Especially in political circles, nothing happens in a vacuum.  At W.O.E., we subscribe to the Use Your Tools ethos, and that includes watches utilized as tools of communication, as is so often the case in politics. In addition, there are a few players in the new White House that are clearly interested in watches, showing once again that watch guys are everywhere.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

Global watch crime is an enterprise worth an estimated 1.9 billion dollars in 2024. Almost daily, watches from Rolex, Richard Mille, and Patek Philippe are stolen—sometimes violently—from the wrist of a tourist or businessman. But what can you do about it? In the newest episode of W.O.E. TV, we’ll discuss this alarming trend and provide tips for how to travel with a luxury watch. While criminal watch gangs pose an undeniable risk, with a certain amount of forethought and some common sense, it’s possible to enjoy your watches around the world. Don’t be a soft target and always use your tools. Enjoy episode eleven of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Director William Burns Received An Omega Watch From A Foreign Government, Can He Keep It? Last week the State Department published a list of gifts provided by foreign governments to US government officials, including the Office of the President, the Department of Defense, and the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). The media was quick to jump on (and politicize) gifts to President Joe Biden, including a $20,000 7.5-carat diamond from Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi to First Lady Jill Biden. But this annual list offers unique and detailed insight into the role of watches in diplomacy and intelligence including documentation of CIA officers receiving Omega Seamasters, Movados, and even a Rolex-Yachtmaster II valued at $18,700, which was later destroyed. We have discussed at length the use of watches as bribes and operational gifts given by CIA officers, but what happens when CIA officers receive gifts from foreign intelligence services, assets, and developmentals? Can they keep them? The short answer is no, but the real answer is “it depends” (yes). Stick with me here. It Is Against US Law To Accept Expensive Gifts Federal law prohibits US Government officials from receiving gifts that exceed $480, anything below this amount can be deemed as a souvenir or as a “mark of courtesy”. But there are exceptions: A CIA officer may accept the gift if “Non-acceptance would cause embarrassment to donor and U.S. Government”—a very subjective concept. In the intelligence business, where human relationships are at the core of the trade, accepting a gift can often do a lot to further the relationship between a Foreign Intelligence Service (“Liaison”) or even an agent or prospective agent (“developmental”). I would go as far as to say that in many cases accepting a gift can do more to further a clandestine relationship than giving one. A U-Boat watch gifted to a CIA Paramilitary Officer from a European intelligence service. After receipt of a gift, the item immediately becomes the property of the US Government and must be reported within 30 days to the General Services Administration (GSA). At CIA, operational gifts from clandestine sources or foreign intelligence services are immediately documented in an operational cable and a separate gift report. (If I remember correctly, when I was at CIA the amount that required reporting was anything above $50.) Purchase Pending With GSA By default, the items are sent back to CIA headquarters and ultimately destroyed, but there are exceptions. According to the release, on June 18th, 2023, a CIA officer received a green dial steel Rolex Datejust, ref. 126300 from a (redacted) foreign government. Valued at $8,050, the document states that the item is “Purchase Pending with GSA”—which means the officer who received the gift is paying the retail price to the US Government to retain the gift.   (Watch Photo Credit: Debonair Watches) Another CIA officer received a Tsikolia Brand Georgian Defense Forces Watch in February 2023 and purchased it from the GSA for $543.  Many others agreed to forfeit the timepieces, including an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, a Ladies Omega Constellation 31mm, a Rolex Air King ref. 116900, a Rolex Lady-Datejust, and a slew of Movados. A Tsikolia Brand Georgian Defense Forces Watch was also given to a CIA Case Officer in 2023. While many of the officers likely would prefer to keep the watches as mementos, the reality is these gifts can be an expensive purchase for a civil servant. Most CIA officers cannot come up with thousands of dollars on short notice to purchase an unexpected Rolex or Omega.   Retained For Operational Purposes A good friend of mine and former senior CIA executive Anthony “Tony” DeMario told me that during his first overseas tour in a Gulf country in the 1990s, he was given a solid gold Rolex Day-Date from an individual he was developing as a social broker. He was able to retain the watch for operational purposes during that tour as it would have been strange for him to not wear the watch when he met with the individual. Tony ultimately had to forfeit the expensive Rolex to the US Government for destruction. He regrets not purchasing the watch, but he knew he would never be able to pay the retail price of a gold Rolex on a GS-12 paycheck. The Panerai he purchased before his first tour was already a stretch. Tony is not alone. According to the State Department report, in 2023, at least one CIA officer was allowed to keep a Rolex Oyster Datejust for “operational purposes.” What the justification was, we can only speculate, but it was likely to wear when he/she met with the contact who gave it to him/her. Intriguingly, it’s likely the same model as the previous example where the officer chose to purchase the watch from GSA, which could indicate the gifting country is the same as the previous example. (Watch Photo Credit: Legend of Time) As previously documented, I received a Breitling Aerospace from the King of Jordan, a watch that I wore regularly during my career and still have to this day. Fortunately, this was prior to joining CIA so I was able to keep it, but if not would I have had the wherewithal to purchase it if I were a junior CIA officer? I don’t know. A Breitling Aerospace given to W.O.E. by the King of Jordan. A Conflict Of Interest? CIA puts a lot of trust in its officers and this trust is at the core of a functional intelligence service. One of the easiest ways to get fired from CIA is intentionally mishandling money or expenses for personal gain.  Neglecting to report a gift is a serious offense at CIA, and could indicate a possible counterintelligence risk or character flaw.   Former CIA Officer Alexander Yuk Ching Ma was indicted in 2024 for accepting gifts and cash payments in exchange for providing classified information to China. While CIA officers are trained to break laws of foreign countries, contrary to Hollywood's depiction the actual business of intelligence collection is heavily regulated by a team of lawyers and must comply with all US laws. Regular security reinvestigations and polygraphs keep most officers honest, but of course, there are always bad apples. Director CIA William “Bill” Burns & The Omega On 2 February 2023, CIA Director Bill Burns received an (unspecified) Omega watch with an estimated value of $11,000. According to the report, he also received a ceremonial sword and a bischt—a traditional men’s cloak worn in the Gulf region. While the country is redacted, the watch was likely a gift from a Gulf nation. According to press reporting, Director Burns traveled to the Middle East during the first week of February 2023 for a meeting on the Israel-Palestine conflict.   Watches play a significant role in Middle Eastern diplomacy and the Arab world and the Omega could have come from a number of countries that traditionally give watches to dignitaries and intelligence officials, often with their royal crest on the dial. On one of my first days at CIA as a junior trainee, I was provided $20,000 in cash and sent to a watch store in McLean, Virginia, to purchase a timepiece for the Director of CIA to give as a gift to the visiting head of a Middle Eastern intelligence service. The gift was used to build rapport and solidify a personal relationship between the CIA Director and the visiting dignitary. There was a rumor that there was a large closet on the “Seventh Floor” that was full of past gifts to DCIA. Despite my best efforts to find it, they never let me in. Meeting with foreign dignitaries is a key aspect of DCIA’s role. In these exchanges, gifts are often given and received. Alas, despite the deep meaning of watches in the intelligence community and the historic moment of a Director of CIA receiving a watch from a foreign government, Burns apparently was not interested in purchasing the watch and the disposition of the watch is listed as “Destroyed.” DCIA Burns wears a straightforward quartz Timex model. Burns, a career diplomat turned influential CIA Director, appears to wear a modest Timex on a leather strap. It’s a boring but fitting watch for a CIA Director who works quietly behind the scenes to further National Security interests. Guns, Hermes Scarfs, & Chocolates Some experiential gifts, including tickets to an F1 Race, are retained for “Official Use” by CIA Officers. While watches feature prominently in gifts to CIA officers in 2023, gifts also include a “Beretta Hand Gun” (destroyed) and luxury items including Montblanc pens and Hermes scarfs. Some more experiential gifts like Formula One Tickets and Tickets to the Meydan World Cup Horse Race were retained for “Official Use.” These likely would have been used as targeting events or to build relationships with the local intelligence service. While this is speculation, I assess many of the gifts to undercover CIA officers are not actually included on this list (click HERE to see the complete list) and remain classified, though still reported to GSA. Watches will continue to play a role in the secretive world of intelligence and diplomacy. Passed between government officials, timepieces are a memento and often a representation of a partnership between governments or intelligence services. In our community, it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Moscow Rules: Watches of the Widow Spy This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

At W.O.E., we’ve commented on the watches worn by some of history’s most infamous individuals including US Presidents, Usama Bin Laden, and Muammar Gaddafi. In recent years, several watches with provenance calling back to these historical figures have been sold at auction where they garner massive results propelled at least in part by their historical significance. The recent sale of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser’s Rolex for $840,000 is just the latest example. Beyond challenging provenance, the auction world has also seen its share of bad press, with many calling into question the originality of certain high-profile lots including the story of an Omega Speedmaster that was faked with insider help from Omega HQ in Switzerland. Not a good look. We admit we’re no experts in the field of high-profile auctions or vintage watches so we looked to Tony Traina, a talented writer, researcher, and friend of the page to delve deeper into the good, the bad, and the ugly of modern watch auctions. As it turns out, watch auctions are their own wilderness of mirrors. Tony has his own newsletter called Unpolished. If you are interested in learning more, you can subscribe HERE. What The World Of Watch Auctions Reveals About History, Strategy, & Brand Power By Anthony Traina An estimated 5M people attended President Nasser’s funeral in 1970. On October 1, 1970, more than 5 million people attended the funeral of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser. One of the most respected leaders in the Arab world, Nasser died suddenly at the age of 52. It’s thought to be one of the most-attended funerals in history. Gamal Abdel Nasser (1918–1970) was an Egyptian military officer and revolutionary who became the country's second president, serving from 1956 until his death. A central figure in modern Arab history, he championed Arab nationalism, led the nationalization of the Suez Canal, and pursued policies that transformed Egypt but sometimes sparked regional conflicts and polarized opinions. Nasser wore his Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President” throughout his life. On Nasser’s wrist during most of his time as president: A gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President.” It can be seen in various photos, from his negotiations with world leaders to playing with his five children. In December 2024, Nasser’s Rolex Day-Date sold at Sotheby’s New York for $840,000. As far as I can tell, it’s the third most expensive Day-Date ever sold. More than a watch, it’s a historical artifact that tells the story of Nasser and the formation of the modern Arab world. Almost as interesting as the watch and the big result is the rumored buyer: Rolex. Hammering for $840k, Nasser’s Day-Date was reportedly purchased by Rolex. (Photo Credit: Sotheby's) It’s just the latest example of a brand purportedly buying one of its own historically important watches at auction. Patek Philippe, Zenith, TAG Heuer, and even Movado are all known to be active in the auction market. The influx of money into watches has turned auctions into big business, with brands' moves—whether covert or public—highlighting both the opportunities and risks. Understanding the players, their motives, and behind-the-scenes dynamics is key to finding extraordinary watches at auctions; without a strategy, you risk costly mistakes. What Is A Watch Auction? (Photo Credit: Christie’s) A few times a year, the major international auction houses—Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s—host watch-themed auctions in the world’s major horological hubs of Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong. It’s where the most historically important, expensive, and rare watches typically come for sale. But they’re not without controversy, the most notable scandal involving a record-breaking Omega Speedmaster in 2021 that turned out to be a put-together “Frankenwatch.” The Omega Speedmaster “Frankenwatch” sold in 2021 for $3.4M. (Photo Credit: Phillips) While auctions are public affairs and record-breaking results garner headlines, the real stories and action happen behind the scenes. Covering the watch industry, I’ve attended several watch auctions. I’ve seen Rolex representatives bidding in the auction room for their historical pieces, methodically building a collection ranging from some of the best-preserved examples in the world (paying millions for top-condition Milgauss and Daytona examples) to the most historically important. But auctions aren’t just for high-end pieces. I’ve bought watches at major and regional auctions – and from familiar toolmakers like Heuer and Enicar, not top luxury brands like Patek Philippe. There’s something for everyone if you know how to navigate it. From Watch To Historical Artifact The caseback on Nasser’s Rolex tells a story. (Photo Credit: Tony Traina) Take Nasser’s Day-Date. Its caseback engraving begins to tell its full story: “Mr. Anwar El Sadat 26-9-1963” Anwar El Sadat, a lifelong friend of Nasser and fellow graduate of the Egyptian Military Academy, became Egypt's vice president in 1969 and succeeded Nasser as president in 1970. Nasser can be seen wearing the Day-Date while he visited soldiers and negotiated with diplomats, reshaping the modern Arab world – a witness to history in a way few objects are. Rolex purchased a GMT-Master formerly belonging to Pan-Am pilot Captain Clarence Warren for CHF 177,800. (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) It’s far from the first watch Rolex has won. Luckily, these watches haven’t been doomed to some vault deep beneath Rolex HQ in Geneva. At Watches & Wonders last year, Rolex displayed several historically important GMT-Masters to celebrate the launch of a new GMT-Master II. This included Captain Clarence Warren’s GMT-Master ref. 6542 (which sold at auction for CHF 177,800), worn on the first Pan-Am flight from New York to Moscow, when then-Vice President Richard Nixon requested Warren to pilot his visit to the Soviet Union. For his airborne accomplishments, Rolex would later feature Capt. Warren in an advertising campaign. Also on display was Jack Swigert’s Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn while he was the command module pilot of Apollo 13.  As W.O.E. has covered before, modern watch brands are machines dedicated to marketing as much as mechanics. The activity of these brands in the auction market is no different. These big auction results make headlines in mainstream news, helping to reposition luxury watches as heritage objects that can last generations and even witness history. It’s the type of storytelling and brand-building that brands dream of. A LIP belonging to Charles de Gaulle sold for over $500k. (Photo Credit: Artcurial) And these big results aren’t limited to Rolex. Former French President Charles de Gaulle’s electric LIP watch recently sold in an auction of his personal effects for more than $500,000. In an auction of hundreds of his personal items, it’s his watch—a simple electric model from a French maker – that sold for five times more than any of his journals, letters, or medallions. Sure, it’s marketing, but it wouldn’t be so effective if it didn’t hold a grain of truth. Especially through the middle of the 20th century, the men and women making history often had watches on their wrists as they led their governments, piloted command modules, or served their country. These were tools that helped guide those who shaped or reshaped the world. Strategic Operations & Watch Auctions A Tudor Submariner issued to the South African Navy. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Somewhere along the way, many of these toolmakers turned into luxury brands. Of course, they still make tools too—for civilians or the military—but auctions are another public stage upon which the secretive drama of the Swiss watch industry now plays out. While the spectacle of auctions and the high prices capture headlines, the real story happens behind the scenes. Auctions are also more accessible than ever. All offer online, phone, and in-person bidding, with the largest auctions often having more than 2,000 registered bidders. Preparation is key: evaluating the watches, understanding the players, acting with discipline and strategy, and avoiding the emotion of the moment. If you’re looking to get involved in auctions, whether you’re spending $100 or $100,000 here are a few tips to get started. Understand The Incentives (Photo Credit: Phillips) Auction Houses & Specialists: Every party comes to an auction with its own incentives and acts accordingly. The most important to know is that auction houses represent the seller, not the buyer. Their goal is to achieve the highest price for the consignor of the watch. Of course, they want both buyer and seller to be happy, and there is the risk of reputational damage if deals go south. But their goal is to achieve the best result for their client, the seller. Auction houses make money by charging a commission on sales (called the “buyer’s premium”), typically somewhere in the range of 25 to 27 percent. This means they typically don’t take a financial stake in a watch, but make money by selling the watch. While they will provide information and condition reports, keep all of this in mind when reviewing the information provided. The goal will be to illustrate the potential of a lot without focusing on its issues or making any guarantees. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Buyers (Dealers, Collectors, Brands): Anyone can throw their hat in the ring and bid at an auction, but they may have different goals. Private collectors want to own historically important watches for all the reasons a collector might – from pure passion to pure ego. Watch out for the latter: ego knows no rationality. As we’ve discussed, brands might also bid at auctions. This could be to acquire historically important pieces for their archives or museums. Or, they might want to “protect” the perception of their brand on the secondary market. Either way, it’s important to know that big-time, institutional money might be after a lot, particularly if it has historical importance. Finally, dealers are always lurking. If there’s an opportunity to resell a watch for more money, expect a dealer’s paddle to go up. For large institutional dealers that hold significant inventory, there also may be incentives to bid up certain watches to “protect” the value of their existing inventory. For example, a well-known secondary market player has significant stock in indies De Bethune and F.P. Journe and is known to actively support those markets at auction. The Crowd: There’s also the crowd. That’s everyone from media to influencers to curious onlookers. They cover the news and can amplify record-breaking or scandalous results to generate clicks or headlines. Do Your Homework & Build Your Own Relationships (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) In the watch industry, professionals often move between roles—media members move to auctions, dealers become specialists, and vice versa. All are invested in maintaining a healthy market and ensuring steady growth, so buyers feel confident in spending on expensive watches. This means they all have their own relationships and generally don’t want to disrupt the status quo. This dynamic explains why it’s important to build your own relationships before spending significant sums at auction. This requires being on the ground to assess the situation. When possible, it’s best to attend auctions and auction previews in person. Watch auction previews are a great watch to learn more about vintage watches. (Photo Credit: Asharq Al-Awsat) Auction previews are perhaps the best way to experience vintage watches in person. You’ll hear stories from specialists that don’t make their way into catalogs. But it’s also the best way to make connections, assess watches, and learn. Put your ear to the ground and see if you catch any gossip (there’s always gossip). On the day of the auction, being in the room is the only way to get a feel for the important players, who’s bidding on what, and the general vibe of the sale. Because auction specialists ultimately represent the seller, it’s often helpful to have an independent third-party dealer you trust to help vet watches. Once you develop a personal relationship with auction specialists, they are also more likely to tell you more information about a watch. Flaws that might not be readily disclosed but that they’re comfortable telling to a valued client. Last Call (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Watch auctions, though public, carry a certain air of espionage. Specialists whisper discreetly into phones, connecting with clients around the globe. When brands like Rolex bid, they often don’t even raise a paddle; a nod to the auctioneer often suffices – visible only to those who know to look for it. While these professionals act in rational self-interest, they may exploit private collectors driven by passion. That’s why coming to auctions well-informed is essential. Armed with knowledge, you can bid strategically. If you’re ready to try your hand at auctions – good luck! If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Inside Look At The Swiss Watch Industry About The Author: Tony Traina is the editor and founder of Unpolished, a weekly newsletter about what’s really happening in watches. He’s a former editor at Hodinkee. Subscribe to receive Unpolished in your inbox.

 Is Jennifer Fairgate's Watch A Clue? In 1995, an unidentified woman was found dead under mysterious circumstances in a luxurious Oslo hotel. Was “Jennifer Fairgate” an assassin, spy, or a troubled woman looking to disappear? Her watch, a Citizen Aqualand, could be the clue to solving a complex puzzle that reads like a Hollywood thriller. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we explore a mystery death in Oslo. For our latest episode of W.O.E. TV, we adapt one of our all-time most popular Dispatch articles into a mini-documentary about a three-decade-old mystery. This one has it all. From a single gunshot ringing out behind a locked hotel door to possible Soviet espionage or organized crime connections to a legendary dive watch that could be the key to unlocking the true story behind Jennifer Fairgate’s death. Enjoy episode ten of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Espionage In Luxury, Trump Tariffs, Watch Crime, & The Watches Of Middle-Eastern Leaders By Benjamin Lowry It’s time for the December edition of our Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap of the previous month’s watch-related news, and any other current events related to our community, paired with our commentary. Tomorrow, we’ll kick off 2025, but before we put a bow on the past year, let’s take a closer look at December’s watch-related happenings. December didn’t disappoint, with espionage making the news at the highest echelons of luxury goods, the watches of Syrian leaders, and new tariffs on the horizon that will likely significantly impact watch brands. In addition, we take a closer look at yet another instance of watch crime targeting a comedian friend of none other than Joe Rogan before discussing the auction of a Rolex owned by Gamal Abdel Nasser, the former President of Egypt. Buckle up, it’s time for the SITREP. Luxury’s Most Powerful Man Takes The Stand In Corporate Espionage Trial (Photo Credit: AFP) While espionage is often the work of state actors and the military, intelligence tradecraft works just as well, and is just as common, in the corporate world. Earlier this month, Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH and one of the world’s richest men, was called to testify in the French trial of Bernard Squarcini, a former head of France’s domestic security service—a spy in other words. Squarcini was hired as a consultant by LVMH to help monitor counterfeiting and more interestingly keep track of some of the group’s left-wing adversaries, allegedly breaking more than a few laws in the process. (Photo Credit: Reuters) Unsurprisingly, Arnault said he didn’t know anything about any illegal surveillance or other illicit activities. In any case, the trial is a rare glimpse into an often unseen world where huge corporations are willing to pay big bucks—and break the law—to protect their image and bottom line. Along with the Swatch and Richemont Groups and Rolex/Tudor, LVHM is among the largest conglomerates in watches, serving as the parent organization behind TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, and Bulgari, among other brands. Syrian Rebel Leader Changes Watches As He Seeks To Become Statesman Al-Jolani made the change from a digital tool watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman. When “rebel leader” Abu Mohammed al-Jolani overthrew the Assad regime earlier this month, taking control of Syria in the process, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: olive drab fatigues and a black plastic digital tool watch (D.T.W.). Since then, al-Jolani has made a noticeable shift in his appearance, from bad-guy-in-a-GWOT-movie to a bonafide Banana Republic head of state. Once again demonstrating the power of watches in sending a message, al-Jolani also swapped watches from his tactical digital model to a much more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1. The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 is Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice when in head-of-state mode. The Seiko is not expensive by watch standards but is also not out of place in his new role as he seeks international legitimacy. Whether the watch plays a part or not, the changes seem to be working. Al-Jolani, who now prefers to be called by his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, has been busy entertaining throngs of diplomats from around the world in recent weeks, all with a Seiko on his wrist. An Al-Assad-signed Rolex Submariner was auctioned by Antiquorum in November. (Photo Credit: Antiquorum) Often in the news for the wrong reasons, Syria has always been an interesting historical footnote for watch enthusiasts, with the Al-Assad regime famously ordering numerous Rolex models including the Submariner, Explorer II, and Sea-Dweller, typically with Hafez Al-Assad’s signature on the dial. For more on Assad’s watches, see a previous Dispatch on Watches Of The Middle East. Trump’s Promised Tariffs Could Make Already Expensive Watches A Lot More Costly (Photo Credit: AP) President-Elect Donald Trump has promised to invoke new tariffs targeting Mexico, Canada, and China as early as his first day in office. These tariffs, essentially a tax on goods coming from these countries, will amount to 25% for Mexico and Canada and a 10% increase to any existing tariffs for China. (He previously threatened 60% tariffs on goods from China). In China’s case, Trump specifically states the tariffs will continue until the country ceases its illegal import of fentanyl into the United States. Whether they say “Swiss Made” on the dial or not, many watch components come from China. (Photo Credit: European Press Photo Agency) The rising tariffs for goods manufactured in China will likely mean higher prices for the watch industry as many raw materials and finished components are Chinese, including parts of watches that claim to be “Swiss-made”. This could have a particular impact on microbrands, which rely on China for cost-effective manufacturing. At the moment, it’s unclear how it will shake down if these tariffs come to pass, but with around 20% of Swiss watchmaking being imported to the United States through the US arms of Swiss watch brands, one would imagine these higher costs will eventually be passed on to US consumers. Comedian Hans Kim Drugged & Robbed Of Rolex & $25k In Cash Hans Kim wearing his (now-stolen) Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: Time & Tide) If you’ve read the SITREP before, you know we like to catch our monthly dose of watch-related crime. This month, the growing luxury watch robbery trend touched the fringes of celebrity when Hans Kim, a comedian and friend of Joe Rogan, was robbed of his Rolex by a woman he brought back to his place. This story comes from episode 2238 of The Joe Rogan Experience, where Rogan describes Kim losing his Rolex and “25,000 dollars in cash” after waking up alone the morning after meeting what he thought was a nice young lady. According to Rogan, testing later revealed Kim had a lot of Xanax in his system. Apparently, Kim’s lady friend put crushed-up Xannies in his drink the night before to put him to sleep, making him an easy target. Also, who on Earth (besides Diddy) has $25k lying around their house? Luckily, though out 25 grand a Rolex, Kim appears to be unharmed. We’ve said this before, but if you’re a solid six and a ten walks up to you in a bar anxious to take you home, be suspicious. It’s possible they’re not only interested in your sense of humor. James Stacey, Hodinkee’s New Editor-In-Chief While we normally don’t cover industry news as such, we’d like to take a moment to congratulate our friend James Stacey who recently took the reins as Editor-In-Chief over at Hodinkee. James is a good dude, half of the team at TGN along with Jason Heaton, a gifted writer/photographer, and a longtime believer in the Use Your Tools ethos, at least when it comes to GMTs. James is a friend of both W.O.E. and myself and has been a great resource as we have grown our platform. While we admit Hodinkee has faced its share of challenges in recent years, we’re excited and hopeful to see where the platform goes with Stacey at the editorial helm. Rolex Purchases A 1963 President Day-Date Belonging To President Gamal Abdel Nasser of Egypt (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) On December 6th, a 1963 gold President Day-Date sold at a Sotheby’s auction for an astonishing $840,000, well over the auction house’s $60k estimate. Far from the average mid-century Rolex, this watch was owned by late Egyptian President Gamal Nasser and given to him by Anwar El Sadat, his successor, in 1963. Dripping with provenance, the case back offers an inscription from Sadat, and the watch has been in family hands since Nasser’s passing in 1970, right up until his grandson elected to put it up for auction. Presidents Eisenhower and Nasser, photographed in New York in 1960. Nasser’s Rolex is just visible. Nasser was responsible for the 1952 revolution that destroyed Egypt’s British-controlled monarchy. His influence on the country’s political landscape and the broader Arab world’s relationship with the West are difficult to overstate. Intriguingly, the watch was purchased by the Rolex organization, marking another example of the Crown curating its history by buying important watches at auction, including a GMT-Master worn by Apollo 17 Command Module Pilot Ron Evans. We’ve written at length about watches and world leaders, but suffice it to say that especially for heads of state, a watch is never just a watch. We have asked our friend Tony Traina what this really means and he has pledged to write a more in-depth Dispatch in the near future, stay tuned. Final Thoughts With only a few days left in 2024, we hope you’ve enjoyed this holiday-sized portion of watch industry news and our pedantic commentary. Whether it’s Bernard Arnault catchin’ smoke over corporate espionage, new Trump tariffs that might make your next Seamaster more expensive than ever, a Syrian rebel leader’s watch transformation, a comedian being drugged and robbed of his Rolex, or the Crown itself buying yet another historically-important watch, December provided a ho-ho-whole lot of watch goodies to capture our attention. Before we close out the year, thanks again for your support. We’ve been amazed to see W.O.E. grow from the Instagram page that started it all to the website to our collection of purpose-built tools to the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Stay tuned. Happy New Year from all of us at W.O.E. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - November 2024

Omega Unit Watches, Vladimir Putin, The Seiko 6309, & A Black Pelagos FXD - It’s Been A Big Year With 2024 drawing to a close, let’s take a moment to recap some of the top Dispatch articles from this past year. To put it mildly, the W.O.E. Dispatch has grown by leaps and bounds, from sharing never-before-seen Omega Unit Watches to digging into the history of the legendary Seiko 6309 to picking some of our favorite military watches on the market. We have no plans to slow down in the new year, but for now, let’s see what resonated with our community in 2024. 10. CIA Timepiece Analysis: President Putin and Tucker Carlson Back in February, former Fox News talk show host Tucker Carlson interviewed former KGB officer and current Russian President Vladimir Putin in Moscow. While much of the media coverage focused on the controversy surrounding Tucker, in this Dispatch, we focus on what we know best: the watches present at the meeting in the Kremlin. Putin’s watch history is particularly interesting as is his habit of removing his watch before interviews including this one. Continue Reading 9. Sangin Instruments - The Marine-Owned “Raider Rolex” I first heard of Sangin Instruments during TDY travel to a war zone while at CIA. At the time, I was responsible for a counterterrorism Covert Action program in the Middle East and I was traveling to visit the program on a flight with other CIA officers. During that trip, I began to notice Sangin Instruments watches on the wrists of SpecOps personnel, CIA paramilitary officers, and other case officers. For this closer look at the brand, I sat down with Sangin founder Jacob Servantes for a deep dive into how Sangin Instruments came to be. Continue Reading 8. The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD Customizing My Dream Watch, The W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection. Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community. The latest manifestation of that link, the Pelagos FXD, is the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed in collaboration with modern SpecOps units. Here, I discuss not only acquiring the Pelagos FXD but also my personal journey to have the watch PVD-coated. Continue Reading 7. Dear Panerai, Stop Putting the Navy SEAL Trident On Watches An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage Back in 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection”, intended for purchase by the public and not exclusively Navy SEALs. The prices range from $10,000 to $60,000, and the high-end models include an invitation to a multi-day Special Operations experience (Xperience) which is, for lack of a better term, corny. In this Dispatch, we examine why slapping a SEAL Trident on a watch is not the right thing to do for so many reasons and on so many levels. Continue Reading 6. The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. Backed by a somewhat unhealthy fascination with illicit activity, arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, and organized crime, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. After all, there’s nothing like first-hand experience Continue Reading 5. The Most Iconic Military Watch Of All Time? The Seiko 6309 One Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. In this Dispatch, W.O.E. team member Benjamin Lowry argues the humble 6309 is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades. Issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others, Ben might even be right. Continue Reading 4. Bezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community For our community, watches are tools, functional items we integrate into our daily lives. Meant to last a lifetime and be passed down to the next generation, their “value” isn’t monetary, it's derived from our shared experiences with these inanimate objects. There are a lot of parallels between our relationship with timepieces and knives, two things that are present with every SpecOps and intelligence practitioner both historically and today. In this piece, we explore the relationship between bezels and blades. Continue Reading 3. The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members While we admit most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. Continue Reading 2. A Mystery Death in Oslo, An Intelligence Op Gone Wrong? An unidentified woman was found dead in a luxury Oslo hotel. Was “Jennifer Fairgate” an assassin, spy, or a troubled woman looking to disappear? Her timepiece is a clue to solving a complex puzzle that reads like a Hollywood thriller. In this mystery Dispatch, we discuss what is known about Jennifer Fairgate’s death while also sharing our theories about the real story behind the young woman who died in an Oslo hotel room all those years ago. Continue Reading 1. Omega's Modern Unit Watch Program Frogmen, SEALs, & The US Secret Service Omega has a long history of producing watches for the military, most notably the classic Seamaster 300 made for the British Royal Navy. Today the company is continuing that history with special production “Unit Watches,” and appears to have standardized its program, offering a unique Seamaster Diver 300M solely to military and law enforcement units. The options for customization include the unit insignia on the caseback as well as a name/call sign or other identifier associated with the individual. In this piece, we share Omega Unit Watches from the Danish Frogman Corps, US Secret Service, US Navy SEALs, and other legendary units. Continue Reading – Thanks again to everyone who read an article in 2024. We couldn’t do any of this without you. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Happy Holidays and stay tuned. 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Would St. Nick Opt For A Diver, GMT, Or A Chronograph On The Big Night? While you may think of Santa Claus as an overweight yet jolly friend to children everywhere, there is more to St. Nick than meets the eye. Santa is a spymaster. This is a man who keeps tabs on all of the world’s children from the safety of the North Pole through a complex intel network primarily staffed by elves, some real 1984 stuff if you ask me. Utilizing a covert influence campaign, Santa convinces us this dystopian reality is not only ok but that we should cherish it, altering our daily behavior to win his favor and access to his fat sack of toys. One night a year, Santa suits up in a full tactical holiday loadout. Santa makes surreptitious entry into millions of homes with military-like precision. The original Yuletide Gangster. Like clandestine operators from the world of intelligence or SpecOps, Santa is screwed if the operation is compromised by some kid straight off the naughty list posting him to TikTok with a mouth full of cookies and milk. Luckily, St. Nick’s tradecraft is tight. Vintage Rolex Xmas ad, World War II - 1942 (Rolex Magazine) Given the nature of his work, Santa Claus is mission-focused and subscribes to the Use Your Tools ethos. At W.O.E., we know Santa also puts a lot of thought into which timepiece to bring into action on the big night. To avoid ubiquitous technical surveillance (UTS), Father Christmas can’t be rolling out with an Apple Watch. He can’t risk being tracked across the night sky by NORAD and intercepted by F-22s. With kids around the world safely snoring in bed trusting Santa to come through, the stakes couldn’t be higher. Everything, including Santa’s watch, has to be good to go. In this special holiday Dispatch, we’ll have some fun and unseriously recommend a few timepieces providing legitimate utility to the big man from the North Pole. If any of you disagree with our picks or have suggestions of your own, let the holiday spirit flow through you right into the comments section. Breitling Emergency II Sneaking into millions of peoples’ homes while they sleep. A worldwide network of clandestine elves monitoring your every move. A flying sleigh. The entire concept is sketchy. As we have proven many times, sketchy dudes wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. For St. Nick, the right Breitling for the job was always going to be the Emergency II, the modern successor to the legendary Emergency that became favored by SpecOps and intelligence professionals during the ‘90s and early 2000s. The Emergency is a digital quartz-powered timepiece, meaning Santa is going to get all of the multi-timezone and timing functions he could ever need or want. And if the worst should happen and an adversarial entity somehow shoots Santa out of the cool night sky, the Emergency still has its position indicating radio beacon, meaning his team of Pararescue elves will be able to locate and recover Santa in time to save the day. Rolex GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710 If it ain’t a sketchy Breitling, our next pic for Santa is going to have to be a Rolex GMT, specifically the GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710. We have often called the GMT-Master family the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch, offering easy tracking of multiple timezones as well as durability while also looking the part in virtually every scenario. As far as we know, Santa isn’t on the Agency’s payroll, but that doesn’t mean he isn’t a master of espionage and exactly the right type of guy for a GMT-Master. Details matter. You’ll notice we’ve selected an older reference 16710 with a red and black “Coke” bezel. This is not only to match Santa’s suit but also a sure sign Santa isn’t following hype culture and reaching for the newest ceramic bezel variants from the Crown. A dude who measures his life in centuries ain’t got time for hype. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Given Santa’s high-altitude sleigh-riding escapades, we can’t help but wonder whether Mr. Claus relies on any kind of supplemental oxygen. Up there, he’s more or less a Yuletide astronaut, and that element, combined with the importance of speed as Christmas Eve turns into Christmas Day, means the Omega Speedmaster is a perfect choice for jolly old St. Nick. To fit the watch over his big red suit, we’d imagine Santa would equip his Speedmaster with a Five Eye Nylon strap. Utility is everything. In addition to its low-pressure resistance, the Speedmaster’s chronograph functionality would also come in handy when you consider that Santa needs to move from house to house with the quickness to get the job done. A watch that proved itself both on the Moon as well as on Apollo 13 when a Speedy was used to time a crucial engine burn to get the astronauts back to Earth safely, the Speedmaster is also no stranger to high-stakes operations, exactly the kind of thing you need when you have exactly one night to spread Christmas cheer to all of the good girls and boys. G-Shock DW6900-1V A watch commonly issued to the SpecOps community including US Navy SEALs, we’d argue a regular old G-Shock would also be rugged enough for Santa’s holiday ops. Despite what you may think about Santa being more of an aviation guy, we’d wager Santa has graduated from several specialized pipelines in his lengthy career as an Arctic operator. To remain hidden, who’s to say Santa doesn’t have to conduct the occasional combat dive followed by an over-the-beach infiltration? In any case, the G-Shock is up for it, with chronograph, elapsed time, secondary time zone, and alarm functions to make sure Santa hits each house precisely on time. Whether it’s chimneys, trees, sleigh-riding, or general covert operations, the G-Shock is durable and, even if it is damaged, easily and cheaply replaced, not that St. Nick is afraid of spending a few bucks to keep up his watch game. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT There’s also a chance St. Nick subscribes to the theory and practice of Tudors Of Espionage (T.O.E.). One of the leaders of the modern Unit Watch scene, Tudor has produced special versions of its Pelagos collection for Tier One SpecOps units, the US Secret Service Counter Assault Team, and the French Commando Hubert. Whether Santa would go for a customized Tudor or not is unclear (maybe Rudolph on the caseback?), but we think the new Pelagos FXD GMT is a great option nonetheless. For one, the FXD’s fixed lug design means Santa won’t lose the thing in a tussle, and the addition of GMT functionality is also a plus. 200 meters of water resistance is great for peace of mind, and the fully lumed dial and bezel are going to be great for Christmas Eve work. The titanium case is also a great option as Santa agonizes over every gram to keep his sleigh as lightweight and speedy as possible. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Another brand with close ties to our community and military aviation in particular, an IWC would also be a perfect choice for Santa. Though he may not be a graduate of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, we’d argue that with centuries of high-speed flying chops aboard his magical sleigh, St. Nick is as qualified a pilot as any. Many of the aspects that make a great pilot’s watch also make it a solid choice for Santa. Legibility is there, especially in the dark. The lightweight and durable ceramic case is also handy. And, of course, having a chronograph is great for timing a team of elves that is often getting into mischief. Drip is also key, and the subtle red highlights on the dial match Santa’s fit to a T. Seriously, W.O.E.? Watches For Santa? If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with us. One of our goals at W.O.E. is to never take ourselves too seriously, balancing the hard-hitting historical pieces of profiles with the odd fun article when and where it makes sense. If you laughed, great. If you didn’t, that’s ok and please be sure to leave a snarky comment down below. The past year has been big for W.O.E. We added our first full-time team member, started a YouTube Channel, and produced more articles than ever before. With that said, we have a ton in store for 2025 we can’t wait to share with y’all. I know we say it all the time, but we truly couldn’t do any of this without you. Thanks again and happy holidays. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands

Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is somewhat outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends about their favorite books on the CIA and the world of intelligence to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. This is the second list focused on CIA, traditional espionage, and foreign intelligence collection. For the first installment looking at books covering the Global War On Terror, see HERE. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. Modern Intelligence Collection In Books The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service, Henry A. Crumpton From serving in the pre-digital age in Africa to helping coordinate the CIA’s Predator drone programs, Henry A. Crumpton’s career in intelligence is carefully chronicled in The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service. While much has changed, Crumpton also underlines the basic tradecraft principles that have stood the test of time. This is a great primer on the world of intelligence and life as a C/O at the CIA, absent much of the bravado common in CIA memoirs. The Good Spy: The Life and Death of Robert Ames, Kai Bird A legend in the intelligence community, Robert Ames was credited with helping to heal the rift between Arabs and the West before he was killed in a bombing on the American embassy in Beirut in 1983. Intriguingly, Bird is a journalist who knew Ames as a child, and crafted this book from his firsthand experience with Ames as well as countless interviews with global intelligence professionals. Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters After the attacks on 9/11, the CIA received over 150,000 applications from Americans wanting to join the Global War On Terror’s espionage effort. Around 100 students were selected for Class 11, the first CIA training course convened after the darkest day in modern American history. In Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters, a Class 11 graduate, shares an insider view of a new generation of CIA Case Officers preparing for war. Of note, some inside CIA will roll their eyes at this recommendation, but it is the best insight I have seen on the training pipeline and specifically the long course at “The Farm.” Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda, Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton, & Henry R. Schlesinger Juxtaposed against the Cold War, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and evolving terrorist threats, Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda is a never-before-seen look at the technology that makes espionage possible. Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson Intelligence collection is a morally ambiguous trade. In Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson, a CIA veteran, tackles the challenging moral and ethical challenges facing the modern intelligence community. Describing a lack of firm guidance from the Agency on what constitutes inappropriate tradecraft, Olson illustrates how that uncertainty hampers Case Officers in the field, making an already complicated and dangerous job even more perilous. I read this book while at CIA and found it thought-provoking and a must-read for anyone in the community. Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior, Ric Prado After fleeing war-torn Cuba as a child, Ric Prado served with US Air Force Pararescue before joining CIA and rising through the ranks of the CIA over a 24-year career. Having served in Central Asia, Peru, the Philippines, Korea, and numerous other classified locations, Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior is Prado’s memoir of a life lived in the shadows. Prado also has several notable watches including the Blackwater Emergency and a Tudor Submariner. The Targeter, Nada Bakos Targeters are one of the most important and least understood career tracks at CIA, and this book provides some great insight. Joining the Agency as an analyst, Nada Bakos rose to the rank of Targeting Officer, playing a central role in unraveling the connections between 9/11 and Al Qaeda during the Global War On Terror. The Targeter is a powerful firsthand account of one woman’s story of selfless sacrifice and the incredible work being done by professionals within the intelligence community. The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, David Priess Every day, the President of the United States is handed a daily brief (PDB) summarizing important intelligence-related issues and events as well as potential threats to the United States. David Priess’s volume, The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, tells the history of what some call “The Book” and its influence on national security and geopolitics. Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, Michael V. Hayden In Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, General Michael V. Hayden shares his experiences as the former leader of both the NSA and CIA, saying, “I bear no grudges, or at least not many, but I do want this to be a straightforward and readable history for that slice of the American population who depend on and appreciate intelligence, but who do not have the time to master its many obscure characteristics."   This is a great primer on the intelligence community at various levels and deals with some of the issues related to the future of the IC. The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives, Ted Gup Ted Gup’s chilling and well-researched The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives tackles the often untold stories of the people behind the 71 stars carved into a marble wall at CIA HQS, each representing an intelligence professional who lost their life in the line of duty. Many of these stories may be still classified, but I will note it was required reading for new recruits at CIA. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw, Mark Bowden Mark Bowden, a legendary journalist and the author of Black Hawk Down, chronicles the violent rise to power and fall of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most legendary drug kingpin, in Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw. Beirut Rules: The Murder of a CIA Station Chief and Hezbollah's War Against America, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz In Beirut Rules, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz unpack Hezbollah’s war against America in the 1980s and the terror organization’s ultimately successful quest to kill William Buckley, a CIA Case Officer assigned to Beirut after the 1983 bombing of the American embassy in Lebanon that killed Robert Ames. The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, Douglas London In Douglas London’s The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, the 34-year veteran of the CIA describes his experience working in American intelligence both before and after 9/11, calling into question how the Agency has adapted and how it must continue to evolve. A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA, Duane R. Clarridge (Author) & Digby Diehl Another memoir from a seasoned CIA Case Officer, Duane R. Clarridge’s A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA is a behind-the-scenes account of the state of American intelligence from the point of view of the former Deputy Director of the CIA. The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture, Ishmael Jones The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture is author Ishmael Jones’ plea for reform within the Agency, specifically citing intelligence shortfalls and other missteps caused by the culture of the world of intelligence. This book is highly critical of CIA, which is actually a good thing. If you are truly interested in learning about the organization, it's important to read positive and negative takes to get a full picture. Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China, David Wise Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China tells the story of China’s unseen espionage war against the United States, much of it perpetrated while American attention was focused on the Soviet Union. From double agents to cybersecurity, author David Wise paints a picture of a Chinese intelligence machine that is not to be underestimated. David Wise has some other great books on espionage including Spy- The Inside Story of How the FBI's Robert Hanssen Betrayed America. The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA, Liza Mundy Historically a male-dominated field, The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA tells the story of the incredible contributions made by women to the world of intelligence and national security. Of note, some of the best officers I worked with were women and this book tells some of their stories. Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History, Antonio Mendez & Matt Baglio A more in-depth look at the real-life story that inspired 2012’s Argo film starring Ben Affleck, Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History is CIA Technical Officer Tony Mendez’s account of his role in smuggling six American hostages out of Tehran in 1979. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, Jack Devine & Vernon Loeb With over 30 years in the business of United States intelligence, Jack Devine finished his career overseeing the Directorate of Operations. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, is Devine’s overarching guide to the concept of spycraft, the combined set of tactics, techniques, and procedures utilized by CIA and other intelligence agencies. Inside the CIA, Ronald Kessler Ronald Kessler’s Inside the CIA is a rare officially sanctioned look inside America’s intelligence service, focusing on the Agency’s organization, mission, and accomplishments. If you’re looking for a primer on what the CIA is and how it operates, this book is an excellent place to start. Transforming U.S. Intelligence, Jennifer E Sims & Burton Gerber (Editors) Transforming U.S. Intelligence is an almost scholarly work assembling the insights of numerous contributors with firsthand experience in the world of intelligence. Based on learnings from the missing weapons of mass destruction in Iraq and critical missteps in the lead-up to 9/11, this book aims to describe how United States intelligence can learn from its shortfalls to be more effective in an uncertain future. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, J.K. Rowling Early in my career at CIA, I focused solely on nonfiction thinking that fiction was a waste of time. That said, many intelligence and NatSec failures boil down to a failure of imagination. Feeding your brain with fiction like Harry Potter is a great way to teach yourself to think outside the box.   The More You Know Separating fact from fiction when it comes to the CIA is challenging, with so much public perception around the world of espionage being inspired by Hollywood’s portrayals of Jason Bourne or James Bond. Targeted strikes, covert action, and high-stakes clandestine meetings do happen, and many are described within these volumes, but the realities facing intelligence professionals are often more subtle, nuanced, and intriguing. While this is not an exhaustive list, these titles represent an excellent jumping-off point for anyone hoping to hear firsthand stories from inside the United States intelligence apparatus. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

I Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches is obvious. Based on a watchmaking tradition going back centuries, Switzerland is home to the majority of luxury watch brands from Patek Phillipe and Rolex to Tissot and Hublot. The country’s connections to espionage are less understood. A historically neutral country, Switzerland houses several international organizations including the United Nations in Geneva, and is often the location of high-stakes intergovernmental meetings both overt and clandestine. Traditionally loose banking laws have also made Switzerland a convenient place for individuals to store wealth, regardless of the origin of those financial gains.    Needless to say, Switzerland is a country that I have visited many times and holds a special place in my heart. W.O.E. at Omega SA in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland The intentions for this trip were simple: to learn more about the Swiss watch industry and specifically brands that are closely aligned with our community. While Omega, Tudor, IWC, and Breitling are very different companies, the one thing they have in common is decades-old relationships with our community. Initially producing purpose-built issued military watches in the 20th century, today these brands are the leaders of modern unit watch programs.  IWC’s pilot’s watches, Omega’s Seamasters, Tudor’s extensive dive line, and Breitling's aviation-centric collection are accurately depicted as luxury items today, but they were all once purpose-built tools. “Watches of Espionage” is in the DNA of each of these companies and I would go as far as to say they would not exist or be where they are today without military end users. Breitling manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (W.O.E.) I was fortunate to meet with CEOs, watch designers/watchmakers, suits, and most relevant to W.O.E., the individuals that run each brand’s Unit Watch programs. The experience gave me a deeper appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and resources it takes to build and sustain a leading watch company. I realize how unique it is to be granted access to these closed-off facilities and this level of openness is not something I take for granted. A Geography Lesson Geneva, Switzerland. Switzerland’s watchmaking industry is intriguing in that it spreads across the relatively small country’s varied geography and its many cultural boundaries. While many of the watch industry’s corporate headquarters are located in Geneva, Switzerland's second-most populous city, the majority of actual production including movements takes place in the Jura mountains spanning the country’s northwestern border. Traditionally, watchmakers expanded to this area to take advantage of an agricultural workforce that was dormant during the winter months, creating the “farmer watchmaker” heritage that many brands tout today. Map of Switzerland’s watchmaking centers. (Credit: Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry) Swiss watchmaking also spans the country’s language barriers. Rolex/Tudor, which is headquartered in Geneva, is staffed primarily by French-speaking Swiss or French workers traveling across the border, but as you head north toward Biel/Bienne, Omega’s headquarters, language and culture shift to a blend of French and German influence. Breitling is also a brand of two cultures, with Swiss-German origins, a headquarters in German-speaking Grenchen, and a production facility in French-speaking La Chaux-de-Fonds. In contrast, IWC is located in Schaffhausen, near Zürich and just across the border from Germany, conducting nearly all of its business in German. Form Follows Function - Purpose-Built Tools Ander Ugarte (left) and Christian Koop are the head designers for Tudor and IWC, respectively. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting with Christian Koop and Ander Ugarte, the heads of design of IWC and Tudor, respectively.  Intensely passionate and masters of their craft, each walked us through the process and attention to detail involved in designing a modern watch for brands steeped in heritage and tradition.  The DNA of iconic watches like the IWC Mark series and Tudor dive watches can be traced back to the divers and soldiers who wore them over half a century ago. While today’s watches trend to luxury items vs real tools, a common phrase I heard was “form follows function.” The watches are still designed with the end user in mind, just as they were a century ago. Automation vs. Hand-Crafted Modern watchmaking is a fascinating blend of cutting-edge technology and centuries-old hand craftsmanship. The two most surprising aspects of visiting the manufacturing facilities of Breitling, Omega, and IWC were the number of robots/automated steps in contrast with the number of steps still requiring human touch. The manufacturing facilities are reliant on technicians and watchmakers from the rural areas of Switzerland, who still work farmers' hours, just as they did centuries ago.  Breitling watch technician. Each morning, hundreds of watchmakers and technicians arrive at the facilities, don sterile antistatic white coats and clean Crocs or Birkenstocks, and spend hours tightening tiny screws to spec or attaching dials to movements. It is a painstaking process and a truly remarkable juxtaposition of futuristic cutting-edge technology and traditional watchmaking. Trying my hand at watchmaking at IWC Schaffhausen. The result is a watch containing hundreds of components, all working in sync to tell you the time. The watches are then shipped around the world through complex dealer networks and intermediaries for you to purchase. Seeing this process firsthand is a remarkable experience and gives me a greater appreciation for the technical and logistical prowess required in Swiss watchmaking. Military Unit Watch Programs - Omega, Tudor, IWC, & Breitling A “Unit Watch” is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization. Customizations can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. When it comes to Swiss watches, Tudor, Omega, and IWC are the modern leaders in the space and we have profiled each program in past articles.  An Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” produced for the US Navy SEALs. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A cynical analysis of these programs would conclude they are sophisticated marketing initiatives, meant to garner publicity through leaks on social media. While I would argue they accomplish this goal in certain instances, the reality is the brands are largely hesitant to publicly acknowledge the partnerships. Swiss brands have spent decades carefully curating a specific narrative to position themselves as aspirational luxury goods. “Tudors of Espionage,” “Sketchy dudes wear Breitling”, and an iconic image of Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a Secret Service agent after an assassination attempt run counter to these carefully crafted narratives.  Diplomatic Security Tudor Black Bay 58. Further, in contrast to smaller brands like Bremont which garner significant revenue from military programs, for the large Swiss houses, it is costly to divert resources to customizing a dial or caseback for a relatively small batch of custom watches, which are also often sold at a discount. In short, these programs likely aren't big money makers for brands that measure watch sales in the hundreds of thousands of units. IWC Unit Watch for AH-64 pilots. So why do large luxury watch brands bother with Unit Watches? As far as I can tell, these programs are passion projects for individuals within each company and they are somewhat controversial for some brands. I have spent significant time with the individuals in charge of the unit watch programs and they are fiercely passionate about them. They truly believe that they are serving a greater calling by producing meaningful tools and heirlooms for our community. Not surprisingly, these individuals also appreciate what we are doing at Watches of Espionage. Watch Brands Are Businesses This one is so obvious that it shouldn't have to be said, but it's a simple fact that many watch “enthusiasts” often forget. The purpose of a watch company is not to make watches, it's to make money. Many of the individuals who work at the major brands are suits, marketing professionals, and technicians who could work for any number of companies in the luxury goods space. While some of them are passionate about watches, the majority of them likely do not consume watch content on their personal time and are not “watch nerds.” Swatch Group Headquarters, left is Omega building. (Photo CreditL Stefan Wermuth/Bloomberg) To be clear, while I enjoy making fun of suits as much as the next guy, this is actually a good thing. If you love watches like I do, then you should want watch brands to succeed… at making money. Headwinds for the watch industry are at an all-time high with Apple Watch sales surpassing the entire Swiss watch industry. It’s not a foregone conclusion that the most iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet will be around in 2074. For the most part, modern watches are luxury goods, meaning they are unnecessary. If they are not profitable, they will disappear. Watch nerds often shed crocodile tears on internet forums complaining about why brand X doesn't produce a specific watch or “listen to the community,” but the reality is brands generally make decisions based on mass market appeal. It may be a tough pill to swallow, but many brands do not care about enthusiasts, and from a bottom-line perspective, they shouldn’t. Ownership Matters As consumers, we often think of brands as discrete monoliths, independent entities that make design and product decisions in a vacuum. However, industry consolidation has led to four conglomerates owning the majority of the Swiss watch industry; Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the parent organization for Rolex and Tudor. Somewhat dated graphic showing ownership in the watch industry (Image Credit: Tony Traina, Rescapement) While in theory, the brands are independent or semi-independent entities, the reality is that Omega's decisions could impact the overall standing and profitability of Swatch Group as a whole, and IWC is just one node of the broader Richemont family. While Tudor often paints itself as an independent entity, when I visited Tudor HQS in Geneva, it was inside Rolex. It’s naive to think that there is no coordination between the companies. Breitling was purchased from the Schneider family by a private equity company in 2017 and whether we like it or not, the overall decisions of the brand are impacted by this ownership structure. (Photo Credit: Rolex) Conglomerates are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they offer access to capital and resources, Richemont and Swatch Group are multibillion-dollar conglomerates with robust infrastructure and supply chains. On the other hand, the conglomerates must ensure each company works towards the same goal, which likely limits independence and creativity at the brand level. Coopetition - Competitors Or Partners? Further, even between competing brands, there is a level of cooperation and sharing. Historically, the legendary Rolex Daytona utilized a chronograph movement supplied by Zenith. Even today, Breitling and Tudor, theoretically arch rivals, share movements, with Breitling utilizing several of Tudor’s base automatic calibers and Tudor receiving a modified version of the B01 chronograph caliber in return, a level of cooperation you aren’t going to see from Apple and Samsung. Tudor's MT5612 is produced by Tudor and voluntarily shared with Breitling, a rival watchmaker. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) While they’re never going to admit it publicly, many of the biggest brands also look to the same suppliers for specific components from jewels to mainsprings to cases and bracelets to construct their “in-house” movements and complete watches. Third-party certifications like COSC and METAS are also utilized by multiple brands looking for a competitive advantage. Despite being fundamentally in competition, I heard several brand leaders admit the overall health of the Swiss watch industry is always in mind. A rising tide lifts all ships. For the industry to succeed holistically, the brands must balance being fiercely competitive with a measured level of cooperation. While it was created in collaboration with Omega and an impartial third party, Tudor has also started instituting METAS testing and certification for some of its watches. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) Tribalism Exists at Every Level Visit any social media watch page and the tribalism—visceral feelings for or against a specific brand—is evident. There are fewer general “watch guys” and more “Rolex” or “Omega” guys. The passion is real and watch nerds think their brand is the best and everyone else sucks. The individuals I met at each brand were fiercely proud of the product they produce, which is cool to see. While they were professional enough to not bad mouth another company outright, it's clear that they truly believed their brand was the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. While this may sound like a negative, this intense conviction to be the best was inspiring. If I buy a Tudor, Omega, Breitling, or IWC, I like knowing that the people making it in the mountains of Switzerland are true believers. Heritage Matters Omega museum, Biel/Bienne, Switzerland When you buy a watch, you are not just buying the components, you are buying a piece of history. One of the most educational aspects of the trip was visiting the museums of Breitling in Zurich, Omega in Biel/Bienne, and IWC in Schaffhausen. For the brands I visited, the history is rich and compelling, and on full display. Breitling Emergency Prototype (Breilting Museum, Zurich Switzerland) Of course, the brands emphasize certain periods and events to carefully curate a narrative, but they are still compelling because it’s authentic.  Omega’s museum had numerous watches worn by astronauts, soldiers, and spies, both real and contrived (Bond, James Bond). IWC was founded by an American soldier, Florentine Ariosto Jones who fought for the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the Civil War and would go on to produce watches for both the Allies and the Germans during World War II, something the museum refreshingly does not gloss over. Breitling’s DNA is rooted in aviation, having provided issued watches during both World Wars decades before becoming a go-to option for those operating on the fringe of sketchiness in the 1990s and 2000s. These museums are open to the public, and I encourage you to visit if you find yourself in Switzerland. The great thing about the country is you can get pretty much anywhere in a few hour train ride. Left is an issued “MN” Tudor MilSub on an original strap, fashioned from parachute webbing. The one on the right was a unit purchase gift for a retiring officer. It was purchased through the MN Rolex-certified watchmaker, Yves Pastre who had a workshop in Toulon. (Photo Credit: Tudor Archives/W.O.E.) Unfortunately, Tudor does not have a museum, but they did provide us access to their extensive archives of military-issued watches and prototypes. This will be the subject of a future Dispatch and the spice level was high. Swiss Watch Marketing is Antiquated I have written in the past about the sophisticated marketing machines behind the Swiss watch industry and this trip confirmed that thesis (Read Here). The major brands, including IWC, Tudor, Omega, and Breitling, have masterfully curated a narrative based on decades-old craftsmanship and history, that makes them leaders in a crowded industry.  In addition to co-opting watch media, they spend millions of dollars a year sponsoring sporting events, recruiting celebrity ambassadors, and producing slick marketing material. Watches and Wonders, an international watch and jewelry industry organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. (Photo Credit: Wikicommons) While I am by no means a marketing expert, I am intimately familiar with human nature. I get the feeling that the brands are reliant on what has worked in the past and not focused on the future, or for that matter the present. Celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, film product placement, and heavily-curated “new releases” are masterclasses in Marketing 101 but the modern consumer is savvy and the media landscape has changed. Legacy watch publications have declined in recent years and have been replaced by a plethora of dispersed voices. There are TikTokers, Youtubers, and podcast hosts who are more influential than Tom Brady and even James Bond. The Swiss watch industry appears slow to adapt to the new landscape and continues to fall back on tried and true methods. Given its age, watchmaking as a whole is steeped in tradition and slow to adapt, especially when it comes to reaching the younger consumers the industry so desperately needs to continue. W.O.E. in Schaffhausen, wearing the same IWC Mark XVII I wore while operational at CIA. Does visiting a facility impact how I will cover them? To date, we have kept the traditional watch industry at arm's length distance, something that frankly much of the industry is okay with. That said, as we have grown our audience we owe it to our community to present thoughtful and unbiased commentary on the watches and brands that are aligned with our ethos. I made some great friends and contacts on this trip and am grateful for the level of access I was granted. It will continue to be a balance between nurturing these relationships and remaining unswayed by the influence of the brands on content. Despite some of the critiques above, my appreciation for the Swiss watch industry in general and these legendary brands in particular could not be higher. I am grateful for those individuals who made this trip possible and thankful for the time and effort of the teams in Switzerland. There are several threads to pull on from this trip and we plan to write additional stories on IWC’s “Top Gun” unit watch program, recent developments in Omega’s unit watch offerings, and the real story behind the Tudor FXD. Thank you all for the support, more to come. -W.O.E. *Note, as with all of our content, this is not sponsored by Tudor, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or any other brand. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands

The Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a look at Christmas movies and tactical watches. This is a fun one and a clear sign that we don’t take ourselves too seriously. Tradition matters at Watches of Espionage. It’s what builds culture and forms the pillars of our community. During the holiday season, tradition means appreciating the cinematic masterpiece that is Die Hard as well as Home Alone and other Christmas classics. As always, watches are the lens through which we view everything from historical events to films. As it happens, some of our favorite holiday films also prominently feature watches that are significant in our community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we stay true to our roots, exploring these iconic holiday films in the way we know best, through the lens of national security and—of course—the watches worn on screen. Enjoy episode nine of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it?  You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary ​​If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB,  Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel,  Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop  

From Waltham To Suunto & Now W.O.E., A Wrist Compass Is Essential Gear For Countless Special Operators While the tools of warfare have developed rapidly over the past sixty years, some gear has remained virtually unchanged, timeless tools that are as effective in 2024 as they were in 1964. Among those essential items are the wristwatch and the wrist compass, both utilized extensively as tools by Intelligence and SpecOps personnel throughout the past six decades. A US Navy SEAL in Vietnam wears a Rolex or Tudor Submariner with a wrist compass. (Photo Credit: Herb Ruth Collection) We often discuss the importance of timekeeping in operational scenarios, but navigation is another equally mission-critical element. The archetypal image of the Vietnam-Era SEAL or a MACV-SOG operator almost always includes not only a watch but also a wrist compass, worn on the same strap. Often overshadowed by the watches they accompany, wrist compasses are useful tools favored by divers and special operators, backed by an intriguing history that stretches from the Vietnam War until today. A prototype of the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass worn with a Tudor Pelagos FXD. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) In this Dispatch, we’ll explore the use of wrist compasses in operational scenarios both then and now, as well as how that rich heritage informed the development process for the W.O.E. Submersible Compass. Wrist Compasses & Special Operations - A Brief History The US Navy Scouts and Raiders, a predecessor to the US Navy SEALS, were formed during World War II. While the concept dates back to ancient China, the compass as we know it today started seeing widespread use as a tool by mariners navigating at sea as early as the 1100s. Military organizations began issuing smaller, more portable compasses en masse to ground-based troops as early as the First World War, a conflict that also saw the widespread adoption of wrist-worn as opposed to pocket watches. Modern SpecOps finds its roots in the Second World War. During this period, the nascent Navy Scouts and Raiders from the United States and British Special Air Service (SAS) and Long Range Desert Group (LRDG) commandos utilized lensatic compasses with built-in sighting mechanisms for wayfinding in challenging terrain. Ralph Bagnold of the LRDG designed the Bagnold Sun Compass during the Second World War. (Photo Credit: National Army Museum) While accurate, these compasses were typically too large for use on a watch strap and lacked water resistance, factors that would become increasingly crucial as maritime special operations grew to include combat diving and other amphibious modalities. By the early 1950s, dive watches including the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner had already become essential parts of any military diving load out. Like watches, the compass would also need to adapt to fit the needs of an evolving military. An astronaut and aquanaut on all three US Navy SEALAB experiments, Malcolm Scott Carpenter famously wore a Rolex Submariner with a wrist compass in diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Underwater compasses had been used by divers for decades by that time but were cumbersome for clandestine maritime operators after leaving the water. In the 1960s, numerous scuba diving brands including Aqualung, Dacor, and Scubapro produced simple oil-filled compasses designed to slide over a watch strap. These diving-specific compasses famously appear in photographs alongside watches like the Rolex Submariner and the Doxa Sub 300/300T during the US Navy’s SEALAB experiments. US Navy SEAL Steve Jewitt, nicknamed “The Walrus”, wearing an issued Tudor 7928 alongside a Waltham wrist compass. (Photo Credit: WalrusTactical) Far from the undersea world, the US Military’s answer was a straightforward wrist compass produced in many cases by Waltham and intended for use alongside a navigator’s issued A-11 or similar wristwatch. Given the sizing norms of watches during the period when many tool watches measured 32 millimeters, the compass came equipped with 16mm canvas and later nylon straps. Designed for use by downed pilots, these compasses, which were initially marked “Waltham” and later “W.C.C.” for Waltham Clock Company, would not see widespread use until the Vietnam War when SEALs brought them into action alongside their issued Tudor 7928s. A Vietnam-Era Seiko and Waltham wrist compasses, all of which were utilized by MACV-SOG. (Photo Credit: W.O.E.) The SEALs were not alone in their adoption of the mil-spec Waltham. Army Special Forces operators assigned to MACV-SOG also selected the brass wrist compass for use alongside their issued Seiko watches. When we interviewed John Stryker Meyer, a legend in the SF community, he said that some of his fellow Recon Company soldiers added a W.C.C. compass to the strap, but he preferred the traditional compass around his neck. For special operations forces, the need for a more portable compass stemmed from the level of autonomy and individual responsibility entrusted to each operator. These Waltham compasses, which are still relatively available through surplus or militaria channels, are becoming increasingly collectible due to their SpecOps associations. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Cammenga wrist compass alongside a Seiko 6309. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) After Vietnam, many continued to wear their Waltham compasses into the Cold War, with SEALs including our friend Dave Hall sometimes opting for older W.C.C. compasses over more modern options out of reverence for his SEAL mentors. Issued escape and evasion kits still included the Waltham in many cases, but some frogmen of the 1980s opted for diving-specific compasses from brands like Silva and Tekna. The Cammenga J582 (left) and Suunto M-9 (right) are among the most popular wrist compasses among special operators today. Over time, several brands stepped up to produce simpler and cheaper compasses which evolved along with the world of watchmaking. Starting in the 1990s, the NSN or Nato Stock Number formerly held by Waltham was taken over by Stocker & Yale with a modernized version of the W.C.C. with tritium gas tube illumination housed within an aluminum case. In 2004, Cammenga, already a maker of many issued compasses, purchased the rights and continues to manufacture the mil-spec wrist compass, now called the J582, for the US Military. While it is an effective tool, the Cammenga is not designed for extended diving or swimming operations. A USAF Pararescueman wears a G-Shock DW6900 alongside a Suunto Clipper compass in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: Michael Yon) A more modern option that has also been issued to and privately purchased by members of the US Military is the Suunto M-9, though it is typically worn alone on the opposite wrist as opposed to with a watch. For wear on a watch strap, Suunto’s Clipper compass and a similar design from Marathon are also common options for military personnel. All offer significant utility for special operators, but most lack the refinement to go toe to toe with watches from brands like Rolex, Omega, Tudor, and Seiko. The W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass A core principle of everything we do at W.O.E. is honoring our heritage. Inspired by the link between tool watches utilized by SpecOps and capable wrist compasses, we set out to design a modern compass measuring that also calls back to the W.C.C. wrist compasses historically used by SpecOps. The result of over two years of prototyping and extensive testing by divers and SpecOps personnel, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that celebrates the heritage of our community. With a custom dial featuring C3 Super-LumiNova, a grade two titanium case, individual water resistance testing to 100 meters, and slim 24.5mm wide by 12mm thick dimensions, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that also looks the part alongside tool watches from Seiko, Rolex, Omega, and Tudor. Click HERE to learn more about the W.O.E. compass. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. 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