The USG Finds An Unlikely Culprit That “Prevents Time Travel” - In the W.O.E. world, we focus on watches used as tools to get the job done. But in one fascinating historical instance, a watch was part of the problem rather than the solution. According to CIA, a simple wristwatch may have prevented some test subjects from traveling through time and space, by grounding them in the present.

Seiko, Hamilton, Timex, & More - Our Top Picks For Starter Watches Of Espionage - One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What should I buy for my first watch?”

Take a look at any photo of a special operator during the Global War On Terror, and there’s a decent chance they will be “inside-wristing”, meaning wearing their watch on the inside of the wrist. But why is this the case? Does wearing a watch this way add genuine utility or is this simply a trend among the LARPing crowd? In the newest episode of W.O.E. TV, we discuss the legitimate benefits and cultural factors behind wearing a watch this way. To be clear, if you’re someone who wears a watch this way to be “tacti-cool”, we’re not here to change your mind, simply to inform. We don’t make the rules. Enjoy episode thirteen of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

The Evolution Of A Rebel Leader Turned Syrian President, Told Through His Watches - Tactical Watch, Seiko, Omega, & Patek Philippe At Watches of Espionage, we explore national security and current events through the lens of timepieces. Today we take a close look at the watches of Abu Mohammad al-Jolani, the former Al-Qaeda in Iraq fighter who led the movement to overthrow the Syrian regime, now serving as President of Syria. As he ascended to power, al-Jolani’s watches changed to match his persona, communicating a message to his supporters and the international community. In intelligence and national security, a watch is a tool. In this case, al-Jolani’s watch serves as a tool to telegraph a persona. When Syria’s Bashar al-Assad was overthrown at the beginning of December 2024, ending some five decades of rule by the Assad regime, I was—along with the rest of the world—genuinely surprised by the speed with which the events transpired. With extensive experience living, working, and traveling throughout the Middle East, including to Syria, I would have expected the Assad family to maintain its totalitarian stranglehold over its 25 million citizens all but indefinitely. So how could this have happened? And where do watches fit into the picture? Al-Jolani made the change from a seemingly-generic quartz watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman. At the center of the conversation was one man: the “rebel leader” then called Abu Mohammed al-Jolani, who led the effort to overthrow Assad. Despite a challenging background, ties to the Islamic State and al-Qaeda, and a stint in Iraq’s infamous Camp Bucca internment facility, al-Jolani has demonstrated an impressive grasp on the importance of communication and influence since becoming Syria’s new head of state. While his attire was perhaps the first to change—from olive drab fatigues to a business suit—for a trained eye, nowhere was this shift from Jihadist to political leader more apparent than with al-Jolani’s watches. For al-Jolani, who has since dropped his nom de guerre in favor of his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, his choice of watches symbolizes an intriguing step-by-step ascent from a scrappy rebel leader, to a budding diplomat, and eventually, to a fully fledged statesman complete with a Patek Philippe, all taking place in record time. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. Unknown Tactical Watch A photograph from the first days of al-Sharaa’s rule showing his mysterious black tool watch. As the first images of a triumphant al-Sharaa in Damascus hit the media on 08 December 2024, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: a thick beard and olive drab fatigues. In our earliest discussion of the events, we incorrectly identified the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist as a black plastic Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but as more photos of the events have surfaced, it would appear the watch is some kind of all-black, likely quartz analog watch with an integrated rubber strap. Despite our best efforts, we have yet to identify the watch. If anyone out there knows, we’ll be sure to update this article. Another angle shows the watch. Does anyone have any idea about this one? In any case, the tactical-looking watch was in line with al-Sharaa’s messaging at the time, portraying himself as the militant Jihadist leader commanding troops on the road to Damascus. And while that image served al-Sharaa’s needs, it would appear the new Syrian leader had a long-term plan in mind with regards to his look, quickly making the swap to business suits and a more elegant timepiece. It happened so quickly, it would appear significant forethought went into al-Sharaa’s appearance and watches. Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 - $150 al-Sharaa wearing his Seiko in the days following the overthrow of the Assad regime. In the days immediately following the overthrow of the Assad regime, al-Sharaa began a campaign to court the media, inviting a series of politicians and delegates to Damascus for highly publicized displays of the “new Syria”. Along with some fresh threads, al-Sharaa upgraded the black tactical watch to a more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1. The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 was Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice in his early days as Syria’s leader. While it isn’t expensive by watch standards at around $150, the Seiko looked the part with a new, more business-like but still modest al-Sharaa and accompanied him on a series of high-profile meetings in his quest for international legitimacy. Seiko is an intriguing brand, serving as one of the world’s largest watchmakers while also balancing a passionate following among the military and watch enthusiasts with mainstream commercial success, including at least one Middle Eastern head of state. We discussed al-Sharaa’s then two-piece watch collection in our SITREP back in December, thinking that at least the watch story had run its course. As it turns out, al-Sharaa is more of a watch guy than we ever imagined and has significantly leveled up his timepiece game in recent weeks, starting with a Swiss luxury icon from one of the biggest names in the business. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900 An Omega Seamaster Diver 300 on al-Sharaa’s wrist as he met with a Qatari delegation. On 23 December, al-Sharaa stepped up his game as he met with a delegation from the Qatari Foreign Ministry. Given away by its distinctive early 90s bracelet design and helium escape valve, the watch was an Omega Seamaster Diver 300 in the more seldom-seen grey dial/navy blue bezel configuration. Often associated with James Bond for its predecessor's antics on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in 1995’s GoldenEye, the Seamaster Professional has become one of the single most popular luxury dive watches in the world, serving as an entry-point to luxury watchmaking for many, including al-Sharaa. The Seamaster appeared to be a mainstay on the al-Sharaa’s wrist for weeks to follow, and we might have once again called our conversation on the leader’s watches complete. After all, the Seamaster hits a nice sweet spot of not feeling overly expensive or luxurious while still representing a big jump above a Seiko. Also favored by former US President Joe Biden, the Seamaster is not cheap, but a world leader likely won’t be accused of corruption or anything else interesting simply for wearing an Omega, which is where our next and (maybe) final watch comes into play. Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930G - $81,610 Moving from a $150 Seiko to an Omega with a retail price of around $6k is a leap, sure, but nothing compared to al-Sharaa’s next move. Last week, al-Sharaa, who is now officially the “Interim President” of Syria, visited Saudi Arabia to meet with Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), the Kingdom’s de facto ruler, in Riyadh. The visit was in keeping with al-Sharaa’s recent MO, shaking hands in front of the camera with as many prominent leaders in the region as possible in an attempt to earn favor for Syria’s new political direction. What was out of place was the watch on al-Sharaa’s wrist, a white gold Patek Philippe 5930G. The watch, which offers “world time” functionality as well as a chronograph, goes for over $80k new and closer to $50k on the secondary market, a significant leap from a Seamaster to say the least. Where the Patek came from is anyone’s guess, but the fact that it was first spotted in Saudi does offer clues depending on your level of pessimism. We have discussed the role of watches in diplomacy and the Middle East and the Saudis in particular are known for cementing relationships with the gift of watches. We assess with medium confidence that this watch could have been a gift from MBS or another Saudi official. Regardless, the Patek Philippe stands in stark contrast to the black tactical watch the rebel leader wore just two months prior and marks a clear evolution to a leader in the Middle East. Final Thoughts If you made a movie about a fictitious rebel leader becoming the legitimate president of a Middle Eastern country, I’m not sure you could have cast the watches any better, representing a near-perfect four-watch staircase demonstrating al-Sharaa’s rise from Jihadi fighter to president. Starting with a humble black “tactical” watch fit for battle fatigues, then swapping for an elegant Seiko to pair with political business attire, to one of the biggest names in luxury watches in the Omega Seamaster, and finally a complicated Patek Philippe, one of the most storied (and expensive) names in watchmaking, al-Sharaa has proven once again that there is more to every watch than meets the eye. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bribes & Operational Gifts - The Role Of Timepieces In Clandestine Operations

An Open Letter To JD Vance From A Former CIA Officer On The Counterintelligence Risks Of Smartwatches Mr. Vice President, Congratulations on your ascendancy to the Vice President of the United States of America. While we are an apolitical platform, we wish you nothing but success, the country depends on you.   In a recent picture of you onboard Air Force Two, we couldn't help but notice the Apple Watch on your left wrist. As a former CIA case officer who spent most of his adult life recruiting spies and stealing secrets, I feel implored to highlight some of the potential vulnerabilities of your smartwatch before suggesting a simple solution. As Vice President, you are now a priority intelligence collection target for the world's most capable bad actors, and the Apple Watch is an effective vector for potential exploitation. We do not doubt that hostile intelligence services are working around the clock to exploit (“hack”) your devices and would be genuinely surprised if they haven't already. The photograph in question, reportedly from 28 Jan 2025. To be clear, we are not anti-technology or troglodytes. We are big fans of Apple and believe the iPhone and iPad are two of the most consequential products of the last century. For most people, the Apple Watch is a great tool and offers significant lifestyle benefits: fitness tracking, optimizing communication, and sleep and health monitoring. But you are not like most people. You are one of the most powerful world leaders and thus a priority target for extremely capable hostile intelligence services, including Russia, China, Iran, and North Korea—all of which are considered Advanced Persistent Threats (APTs).   From an intelligence perspective, the Apple Watch offers unique data collection and access for exploitation and even manipulation. Of particular concern, the watch contains a microphone that when worn is capable of detecting and recording the user's conversations. As Vice President, nearly everything you say and do is of interest to foreign intelligence services (FIS). This includes not only strategic-level discussions with the President and National Security officials but also conversations with your wife, political donors, and college friends. While the Apple Watch has security features in place, you must operate under the assumption that it can be compromised and exploited. Through a process called hot micing, the microphone can be remotely activated or set to passively collect audio without the wearer's knowledge. Additionally, the Apple Watch collects GPS location, movement, and biometric data including heart rate and sleep patterns, representing potential vulnerabilities for exploitation by bad actors. If the device is compromised, all of this data is available to a hostile intelligence service.   French newspaper Le Monde has exposed a number of intelligence links using data from Strava, a popular fitness tracker. (Photo Credit: Le Monde) Further, the average iOS Apple operating system has an estimated 40-80 third-party applications installed. Many of these apps collect data and resell it to advertisers. If a product is free, you are the product. While in theory this data is anonymized, we have our doubts. Just ask your new Secret Service Director Sean Curran. According to an investigative report by the French newspaper Le Monde, data collected through the fitness app Strava was leveraged to identify 26 Secret Service agents as well as the locations of sensitive meetings. “It's this new app—you put in your Social Security number, and it makes you look like a cat.” (Credit: New York Times) As you are likely aware, connected devices are prohibited in Sensitive Compartmented Information Facilities (SCIF) and regardless of location, many of your conversations occur at this level or higher. In September 2024, the US Army issued a warning to Department of Defense (DOD) personnel on the counterintelligence (CI) risks of smartwatches with a social media campaign: “Smartwatches can transmit sensitive information. Don’t be an insider threat - Think before you use a smartwatch in the field or on deployment.” While state-sponsored hackers (APTs) are likely the greatest threat, it is important to understand that private companies allegedly also maintain this capability. In 2021, Apple reportedly sued Israeli cybersecurity firm NSO Group: “NSO Group creates sophisticated, state-sponsored surveillance technology that allows its highly targeted spyware to surveil its victims. These attacks are only aimed at a very small number of users, and they impact people across multiple platforms, including iOS and Android. Researchers and journalists have publicly documented a history of this spyware being abused to target journalists, activists, dissidents, academics, and government officials.” (Credit: New York Times) To be very clear, there is nothing inherently wrong with Apple products or the Apple Watch. In fact, we would say that they are probably one of the most secure, or least vulnerable, tech products on the market. That said, any device can be hacked.   If you don’t believe us, we encourage you to reach out to your newly appointed Director of CIA John Ratcliffe and Director of National Security Agency (NSA) General Timothy D. Haugh for a demonstration of our capabilities. You will be amazed. I am a firm believer that you should not highlight a problem without providing a solution. So here are three watches we would recommend, not only are they great tools backed by intriguing heritage, but they are also all completely safe from the prying eyes of foreign intelligence services. Sangin Instruments Neptune We are told there is no such thing as a “former” Marine. Given your time serving in the Corps, we can’t help but think a watch described as “A Marine Raider Rolex” would fit the bill. Founded by Jacob Servantes, a Marine Special Operations veteran, Sangin produces a range of capable tool watches informed by the founder’s military experience and appreciation of watches. The Neptune is on the more refined end of the brand’s spectrum, capable of 300 meters of water resistance while still looking elegant enough for White House wear. Marathon 41mm Diver’s Automatic (GSAR) Another brand with legitimate links to the Marine Corps is Marathon, a Canadian brand that has seen its watches issued to numerous US Military units including Marine Force Reconnaissance. For your purposes, we would recommend the automatic GSAR, which is powered by a Swiss Sellita movement while still offering significant water resistance and tritium tubes for constant nighttime legibility. Besides, if President Trump really does make Canada the 51st state, this watch will be almost made in the USA (just kidding… kind of). Breitling “White House” Aerospace Thus far, we’ve suggested commercially available watches, but why not take advantage of your new position just a little bit with a customized Breitling “unit watch” that is only available to White House staff? The so-called “White House” Breitling Aerospace is a customized version of one of the brand’s most popular models from a military and intelligence perspective, offering a broad swath of digital timekeeping functions that will help to offset the Apple Watch loss without having potentially dangerous counterintelligence implications. During the previous Trump administration, someone set up a program where White House employees could order a version of several models with the White House Seal on the dial as well as a special caseback engraving. As a note, we’re not calling you sketchy, but it’s important to know that Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. It's Never Just a Watch Whether you know it or not, as a US Marine, you are a member of the W.O.E. community. Given the gravity of your new role, a watch may seem like an insignificant nuisance. But decades from now when you move on in life, the watch you wear over the next four years will be a talisman of your service to this country and treasured by your grandchildren. Unless it's an Apple Watch, in that case, it will be in a landfill. Sincerely,  -Watches of Espionage (W.O.E.) For more information on this topic check out our article on the Counterintelligence Risks of Smartwatches as well as our Youtube video HERE. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches Of The Trump Administration This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

For CIA Leadership Analysts seeking to learn everything they can about a world leader, even something as seemingly insignificant as a wristwatch can play a role in assembling a complete profile to be shared with key decision-makers including the president. Whether it’s Kim Jong Un’s IWC, Putin’s insane luxury watch collection, or a Panerai favored by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, remember: A watch is never just a watch.   In the newest episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we discuss the watches worn by several prominent world leaders. Leaning into our experience from the world of intelligence, we provide examples of the types of insights that can be gleaned from the watches world leaders choose to wear on their wrists. Enjoy episode twelve of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

A US Marshals Watch Auction, Submarine Smartwatch Intel Leaks, A Celeb’s Stolen Rolex Returned, & More   The watch world moves at a sometimes frenetic pace, making it difficult to believe we’re already closing the door on the first month of 2025. With that being said, we’re true believers in taking the time to slow down and reflect on the happenings of the past month in our recurring SITREP (Situation Report) series. If you’re new here, this monthly after-action report of sorts is our rundown of the watch and espionage-related events we believe you will find interesting, all coupled with our commentary. No matter how you slice it, the biggest news in the United States was the inauguration of President Donald Trump, kicking off his second go-around as the commander-in-chief. We already provided our unbiased look at the watches of the incoming administration HERE in great detail so we’ll be leaving the new White House out of this SITREP if at all possible. Despite a lingering holiday hangover and the weight of a political regime change, January brought a lot to the table. From a U.S. Marshals Service auction including luxury timepieces that look straight out of the cartel lookbook, to a celebrity’s unlikely recovery of a stolen Rolex, to a French submarine’s unfortunate cyber security failures, and a whole lot more, it’s time for the first SITREP of 2025. Whoa, Keanu Reeves’ Stolen Rolex Recovered In Chile If there’s one thing we know from our monthly check-in on global watch crime, it is that in most cases, stolen watches are never recovered. Post theft, these watches are typically fed into a transnational illicit network and later sold on the black market far afield from the original crime scene. Well, in an ending good enough for Hollywood, three watches stolen from Point Break star Keanu Reeves’ home in California in 2023 were miraculously recovered in Chile following a raid of four houses related to local burglaries and the subsequent arrest of one 21-year-old individual. An Instagram post from a member of Reeves’ stunt team shows a Rolex Submariner similar to the one stolen from the actor’s home and later recovered in Chile. One of the watches, a Rolex Submariner, is engraved with the actor’s name and “2021, JW4, Thank You, The John Wick Five”. The watch appears to be from the set gifted by the actor to his stunt team after filming 2023’s John Wick: Chapter Four. At least according to social media, Keanu Reeves is rumored to be a good dude, so it’s great to see at least one fairytale ending in a stolen watch story. For even more on the alarming trend of criminal gangs specifically targeting Rolex and other luxury watches, check out the latest video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. Sadly, Reeves does not make an appearance. Former New Jersey Senator Sentenced In Corruption Trial After Receiving Gifts Including A Patek Philippe   (Photo Credit: Alex Kent/AFP) Former Senator Bob Menendez was sentenced to eleven years in prison after being found guilty in a federal corruption trial. He received expensive gifts, including a Patek Phillipe watch, from a wealthy businessman in return for an introduction to Qatari government officials. Back in October, Menendez was charged with acting as an "agent" of the Egyptian government and allegedly accepting bribes in the form of gold bars, cash, and a Mercedes, with his total illicit compensation totaling almost $1M according to court documents. Businessman Fred Daibes reportedly sent Sen. Menendez the above images of additional watches with the casual phrase -“How about one of these.” In total, Menendez was convicted of 16 counts, including bribery, extortion, wire fraud, obstruction of justice, and acting as a foreign agent.  Prosecutors successfully argued that the senator tried to use his power to advance Egyptian military interests, interfere in criminal prosecutions, and secure investment from Qatari officials. As we have discussed, watches play a significant role in espionage operations, being more difficult to trace, highly liquid, and less blatant than cash, a Mercedes, or gold bars. U.S. Marshals Service Auctions Patek & Rolex Models With Sketchy  Background & Plenty Of Diamonds (Photo Credit: USMS/Gaston & Sheehan) If you’re a watch nerd, you’ve likely heard of Christie’s, Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams—some of the biggest names in the big business of watch auctions. If not, our friend Tony Traina recently shared an excellent primer on the sometimes shadowy world of watch auctions. We sometimes wonder what happens to watches seized by US federal law enforcement agencies, and you may be surprised to learn that not only are these watches sold at auction, but also that some of the world’s most serious brands and references are present and accounted for. (Photo Credit: USMS/Gaston & Sheehan) In the U.S. Marshals Service Luxury Watch Auction that closed on January 16th, the top lot was a Tiffany dial Patek Philippe Nautilus that hammered for an eye-watering $1,059,855, with the entire auction intriguingly forgoing buyer’s premiums. Some of the other heavy hitters included a Rolex “Rainbow” Daytona with the full factory pave diamond treatment that went for $455,100 and another Nautilus, this time in platinum and set with emeralds, for $930,300. The question then becomes, where the heck are these watches coming from? Looking for the perfect watch to match your gold AK? Be sure to check out the next USMS luxury watch auction. While the auction itself, which is operated by an auctioneer called Gaston & Sheehan on behalf of the USMS, (unfortunately) doesn’t specifically state the provenance of any of the watches, it’s reasonable to assume they come from seizures associated with various law enforcement actions. Whether that’s from murderous cartel bosses with solid gold AKs or more polished white-collar criminals is unclear, but an auction like this likely serves as a legitimate source of income for a federal agency like the Marshals Service. Who said crime doesn’t pay? French Nuclear Sub Crew Shares Sensitive Information Using Smartwatches (Image Credit: Le Monde) Despite offering legitimate lifestyle benefits, smartwatches and other connected devices present serious counterintelligence risks. We’ve spoken at length about the challenges presented by smartwatches like the Apple Watch for intelligence officers, and it would appear a Marine Nationale (French Navy) nuclear submarine crew has just provided another example of the potential gravity of the situation. The Île Longue military base in Brest harbor is home to France’s four nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarines. As you’d imagine, everything on base is top secret, everyone is subject to search, and connected devices aren’t allowed in many areas. An officer exits the Suffren, the French Navy's newest nuclear attack submarine. (Photo Credit: Nicolas Tucat /AFP) Still, according to Le Monde and other sources, 16 submariners recently inadvertently shared top-secret patrol schedules and geographic data about the submarine base by uploading on-base fitness activity to Strava after recording a run on their smartwatches. The incident serves as another important reminder of how crucial it is for individuals to safeguard their data, even if it means missing your baguette and café-related notifications or having to catalog your fitness activities the old-fashioned way. Given the long-standing historical link between the Marine Nationale and Tudor and the lack of counterintelligence risks inherent in mechanical watchmaking, I can’t help but wonder if these dudes wouldn’t be better off with a Pelagos FXD. Catherine Villeneuve To Leave Bremont After Fifteen Years With Military Projects Division (Photo Credit: Bremont) After a massive fifteen years with the brand as the Head of Military and Special Projects, Catherine Villeneuve is set to move on from Bremont. Where she’ll go next is as yet unknown, but it’s more than worth taking a moment to recognize her efforts in acting as a liaison between a watch brand and numerous global military organizations. Sometimes lovingly called the “third founder” of the brand after Giles and Nick English, Villeneuve helped to create over 500 military “unit watches” for military organizations the world over. W.O.E. had to opportunity to visit Catherine at Bremont in 2023 and we are sad to see her leave. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Whether this move has to do with the brand’s 2023 investment by American billionaire Bill Ackman and others and the ensuing exit of the founders, we do not know, but what is clear is that Villeneuve’s loss will be felt. Despite close ties between our community and watches, brands are often ineffective in dealing with military organizations which have their own cultures and customs. Having a full-time employee dedicated to bridging that gap did wonders for Bremont, and we can only hope to see other brands adopt similar roles in the future. For more on Bremont’s unit watch program, check out Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division.   W.O.E. In The Press (Photo Credit: Devin Pennypacker) While it’s never our intention, as our community grows to include more “mainstream” watch nerds, Watches of Espionage occasionally finds itself mentioned in the press. This past month, one of our custom-designed tools, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass, was reviewed in detail on Worn & Wound by our friend Devin Pennypacker. For those who have asked, the demand for the compass has been incredible, and we are working hard to get those back in stock soon. Click HERE to read Devin’s review. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./Brock Stevens) Our compass also made it into the virtual pages of GQ, where Cam Wolf argues that accessories like the Submersible Wrist compass will be the next big thing for watch enthusiasts. For us, the enduring legacy of wrist compasses in use by SpecOps and the military is our driving factor, but we’re also cool with fashionistas getting in on the Use Your Tools lifestyle. That said, (unless all expenses are paid) we won’t be attending Paris Fashion Week. Click HERE to read Cam’s article. Final Thoughts Some months come on stronger than others, but if the past few weeks are any indication, there is plenty of excellent SITREP content on the horizon for 2025. From the unlikely return of a stolen Rolex to one of the internet’s favorite actors to ze French accidentally sharing critical submarine intelligence to a US Marshals Service auction for some of the most ostentatious watches you could hope for, January came on strong. As always, if you should come across great stories for the SITREP in the execution of any of your daily sketchy activities, be sure to send them our way. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - December 2024

Pressure Testing An Affordable Watch & Understanding Deepsea Espionage By Benjamin Lowry While the stories we tell typically explore the world of intelligence in the terrestrial sense, espionage and the deep sea have been closely linked for decades. Starting during the Cold War, a shadowy conflict has been waged on the ocean floor. From submarines and divers tapping (or cutting) cables to deepsea acoustic listening stations and the clandestine recovery of sensitive materials, controlling and monitoring the deep ocean is an unfamiliar yet critical component of intelligence and modern warfare. Brands like Rolex and Omega will often tout their deepsea capabilities with the Rolex Deepsea Challenge rated to 11,000 meters (36,090 feet) and the Omega Ultra Deep coming in at a lesser but still ridiculous 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) of theoretical water resistance. But what about a cheap Casio often associated with terrorists and hipsters? With around $15 and some engineering know-how, can an affordable watch also venture into the deep ocean? Setting the stage for undersea espionage to follow, the CIA’s Glomar Explorer was a ship designed to secretly raise a sunken Soviet submarine to recover its nuclear warheads. (Photo Credit: CIA) At W.O.E., watches are the lens through which we view history and current events. In this Dispatch, we’ll take a Casio F91W—a cheap digital tool watch—almost 5,000 meters (16,400 feet) under the sea, setting the stage for a broader discussion on the deep ocean’s role in the wilderness of mirrors. As a Coast Guard veteran and former commercial diver, I’m no expert on the intersection of engineering and espionage at depth. Luckily, I know people. Pressure Testing A Casio F91W Our friend Josh’s Omega Planet Ocean on the manipulator arm of an ROV. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) A couple of years ago, a fellow watch enthusiast named Josh Konicki reached out saying he worked in the unique world of deep ocean salvage, often contracting for the US Government to recover downed fighter jets, lost ordnance, and other sensitive items the military doesn’t want lying around the ocean floor. In 2022, Josh and his team helped the Navy recover an F35 that crashed into the South China Sea from the deck of an aircraft carrier. It’s scary to imagine the repercussions if our adversaries were to recover and reverse engineer one of the world’s most advanced fighter jet platforms—not good. Photo Credit: US Navy Like many whose lives revolve around the sea, Josh is a watch guy, and when he asked if I would be interested in seeing a Casio F91W dive deep on the manipulator arm of an ROV or remotely operated vehicle, I answered with an enthusiastic “hell yeah”. Available on Amazon for precisely $13.16, the F91W is among the most common watches on the planet, with some three million units produced on average per year since the watch’s inception in 1989. This implies there are well over 100 million F91Ws out there in the world, a crazy statistic. Utilized as a tool by everyone from Usama Bin Laden to US SpecOps and art school grads at your local farmers market, the F91W is a straightforward digital watch equipped with a resin case, strap, and crystal and paired with simple digital timekeeping functions and one of the worst backlights in watch history. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Many have argued the F91W is the least expensive watch that is actually worth buying, and I tend to agree. For its price, it’s one of the most capable watches you can get. However, while the F91W is many things to many people, most would fall well short of calling it a dive watch, at least unless you’re willing to get a little bit handy, risk your $15 investment, and have some mineral oil lying around. Filling A Watch With Oil & Going Deep For Josh, whose job is to build and maintain equipment for deepsea salvage and recovery, filling a digital watch with oil is no big deal. Incredibly, after this relatively simple and cheap modification, a watch—even one as attainable as the F91W—becomes all but pressure-proof thanks to the almost incompressible nature of oil. The actual how-to for this “hydro-mod” is all over the internet, but suffice it to say oil-filling your Casio is relatively easy, cheap, fun, and helps if you’re planning to take your F91W five kilometers or so underwater, which is exactly the kind of thing Josh does for fun. For the deep ocean test, Josh strapped the F91W onto the manipulator arm of CURV 21, a 6,400-pound ROV belonging to the US Navy and capable of diving to around 20,000 feet. The live video feed from the ROV, which is hard-wired to the surface, means the operator can observe the watch throughout the dive. As the numbers on the depth gauge begin to rise, there’s an element of suspense as the ROV descends through the water column. The bright ambient light of the shallows gives way to the inky darkness of the depths, with nothing but small particles passing by the ROV’s lights to indicate the descent to the bottom. As the digital depth indication passes 1000 meters, 2000 meters, 3000 meters, and finally 4000 meters, the watch nerds in the room are glued to the screen waiting for the $15 watch to implode… or not. Incredibly, the F91W survives its journey to an official 4,950 meters—an astonishing 16,240 feet—and back. 4,950 meters under the surface, the pressure is approximately 7,227 pounds per square inch, which is well over three tons pressing on the watch. For context, that’s a Dodge Ram 1500 or a young adult hippopotamus parked on every inch of your F91W. As Americans, we’ll do anything to avoid the metric system, but using scientific terminology, we’re talking about a shitload of pressure. Josh with his fleet of deep-diving F91W watches and the ROV. However impressive, this example of oil-filled horological pressure resistance is not unique. There are other oil-filled watches from brands like Sinn capable of similar diving exploits, and many other watches both digital and analog quartz (mechanical watches can’t be oil-filled) that could theoretically be filled with oil and go deep. But the feat is all the more impressive when considering the F91W costs about as much as a Chipotle burrito (with guac). But wait, what is the US Government doing 5000 meters down anyway? A Brief History Of Deepsea Espionage Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When the US Navy’s SEALAB trials kicked off in 1964, the reason behind the costly and dangerous experiment was billed as an attempt to prove man’s ability to live and work in the sea. The part the Navy left out was why the US Government might require such a mode of diving in the first place, and the principal reason was intelligence collection. Even after the cancellation of SEALAB III in the wake of aquanaut Berry Cannon’s death in 1969, the Navy didn’t stop its deep-diving research, it simply stopped talking about it. Artist’s rendering of the USS Parche, one of the modified submarines used in Operation Ivy Bells. (Photo Credit: Naval Order) Before SEALAB, the Navy was already using the Sound Surveillance System, a network of underwater listening stations designed to detect and monitor submarine movements, especially the kind with nuclear capabilities. By the 1970s, American submarine espionage was in full swing, with the specially modified USS Halibut using diver lockout chambers and saturation diving methodology developed during SEALAB to attach listening equipment to Soviet communication cables in the Sea of Okhotsk as part of Operation Ivy Bells. If you haven’t read up on this insane operation, there’s a great book called Blind Man's Bluff: The Untold Story Of American Submarine Espionage, that is more than worth your time. US Navy SEAL Rick Hetzell wearing a Rolex Submariner on an Olongapo bracelet while working with his US Navy-trained sea lion. By 1974, the CIA and Howard Hughes built the Glomar Explorer, a 618-foot supposed deep-sea mining ship designed to secretly raise a sunken Soviet submarine, the K-129, from a depth of 4,900 meters (16,000 feet). The plan was for the ship to use a massive specially engineered undersea claw, which was completely hidden from the outside of the ship, to lift the sub and recover its nuclear warheads and cryptological documents. To date, it remains one of the most complex, expensive, and secretive intelligence operations of the Cold War. It gets weirder. Starting in 1960, the US Navy also maintained a fleet of trained marine mammals including dolphins and sea lions capable of locating undersea mines and even identifying and subduing adversarial combat swimmers, especially those with Russian accents. During the Cold War, espionage in the deep sea was alive and well, but what about now? A Sea Of Surveillance & Sabotage The true extent of the modern US Navy Marine Mammal Program is unknown to the public. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Today, as technology takes an increasingly prominent role in armed conflict, the deep ocean continues to serve as a little-understood domain of war. In addition to its nuclear submarines and a much improved undersea listening system that detected the implosion of the Titan submersible in 2023, the US Navy quietly maintains its Marine Mammal Program, (allegedly) primarily for Mine Countermeasures (MCM), but other recent clandestine acts on the sea floor have—once discovered—burst into the headlines. The exploded Nordsteam pipelines were determined acts of sabotage. Twenty-three natural gas pipelines connect Europe to Russia. On 26 September 2022, two of them exploded without warning 70 to 80 meters (230 to 260 feet) under the surface of the Baltic Sea. Built to carry Russian natural gas to Germany, the explosion of the Nord Stream 1 and Nord Stream 2 pipelines was captured by undersea seismic listening stations, with explosive materials later being recovered on the surface. With much of Europe facing an energy crisis, the saboteur was careful, exploiting the inherent difficulty of investigating the aftermath on the ocean floor, making attribution difficult. A Baltic Sea communications was severed by a vessel dragging its anchor across the cable numerous times. In 2024, also in the Baltic Sea, there were several more highly publicized incidents where deepsea cables carrying internet and electricity were cut by unknown agents. Cables providing internet service between Lithuania and Sweden and Finland and Germany were cut in November. Depending on the depth, operations of this type would likely require advanced marine technology involving divers, ROVs, and submersibles, well beyond the scope of any entity smaller than a major nation-state. Coincidentally, on Christmas Day, a Russian tanker allegedly packed with “spy equipment” was detained by the Finnish Border Guard after intentionally dragging its anchor across cables providing critical infrastructure. Russia, one of the possible culprits for at least some of the recent undersea acts of espionage, is known to operate a “shadow fleet” of civilian-registered vessels outfitted to conduct intelligence and sabotage operations. Eagle S, an alleged Russian “spy tanker” was seized by the Finnish Border Guard on Christmas Day, 2024. Whether these covert operators wear Vostok Amphibias or F91Ws or something else is anyone’s guess. They don’t appear to have a fleet Instagram page. Home to numerous utility and communications cables, not to mention submarines armed with nuclear weapons, and at least one Casio F91W, the sea floor is a key player in global espionage operations both then and now. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Casio F-91W, the Preferred Watch of Terrorists *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on the link to a book in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

Rolex, Omega, Timex, & Patek Philippe Worn By US Political Leaders  As Donald Trump is once again sworn in as the President of the United States, we offer an unbiased look at the watches worn by not only Trump but also members of his Cabinet and close advisors. The watches worn by US Presidents and political appointees are seldom accidental, and you can learn a lot about a person from their timepiece. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. With that in mind, we apply our Agency background and knowledge of timepieces to see what can be learned from the watches worn by the incoming administration, especially those worn by politicians with roles close to the world of intelligence and the military. A White House Breitling belonging to Cliff Sims, Trump’s pick for Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications Please keep in mind that this is simply an exercise and all in good fun. Watches of Espionage is an apolitical platform utilizing watches as the lens through which we view history and current events. If the new administration were on the other side of the aisle, we’d write the same article. If seeing a watch worn by a political figure you don’t agree with triggers you, we would recommend taking up a soothing activity like hiking, knitting, yoga, or maybe even an ice bath.  If you have additional vitriol that must be expressed, know that we very much enjoy reading your comments. Until then, let’s get started.  Donald Trump - President  During his first term, President Donald Trump notably wore several luxury timepieces including a Patek Philippe Ellipse, a Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1968, and a Rolex Day-Date Ref 18038. While he elected to not wear a watch for the inauguration yesterday as far as we could tell, we will keep our eyes peeled for which watches Trump favors during his second term. Of course, the elephant in the room is the collection of Trump-branded watches released last year, including a $100,000 tourbillon as well as more pedestrian models coming in around $500.  Despite the release with much fanfare, we have yet to spot President Trump (or anyone else) wearing any of the watches bearing the President’s name including such models as the Trump Crypto President 47, the Trump’s Smoky Blue, or the Trump Shield Warrior, a real shame if you ask us.  JD Vance - Vice President  The Vice President for Donald Trump’s second term in office is none other than JD Vance, a former United States Senator from Ohio and US Marine Corps veteran. While Vance is often photographed without a watch, when he was seen wearing a watch during the campaign, it was typically an Apple Watch. The Apple Watch serves as a sign of youth and tech savviness in keeping with Vance’s background in venture capital, but smartwatches also present serious counterintelligence risks. Will the VP continue to wear an Apple Watch in the White House? Or will the Secret Service and National Security Agency inform him of the CI-risks of smartwatches? Mike Waltz - National Security Advisor  Mike Waltz, Trump’s National Security Advisor, has quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). During his service, Waltz appears to have favored a straightforward Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.), but more recently, Waltz has been spotted wearing a couple of different Rolex models including a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710, and an older GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, likely reference 16710. This embodies the old-school adage that all a Special Forces man needs are a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex. Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.)  Kristi Noem - Secretary of Homeland Security Trump’s pick for the Secretary of Homeland Security is Kristi Noem, formerly known as the 33rd Governor of South Dakota. Again demonstrating the popularity of Rolex in US political circles, Noem is often photographed wearing what appears to be a 41mm DateJust. What’s more, like many members of the military and SpecOps, Noem has also been seen “inside-wristing” her Rollie for reasons we can also assume are tactical in nature. Noem inside-wristing her Rolex. Kash Patel - Director of the FBI  It almost shouldn’t have to be said at this point, but Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. Kash Patel, Trump’s pick to lead the FBI, worked as a prosecutor at DOJ and also served as the Chief of Staff to the Acting Secretary of Defense, Deputy Assistant to the President, Senior Director for CT at the NSC, and Principal Deputy to the Acting Director of DNI. He was also a DOJ liaison officer to Joint Special Operations Command (JSOC). Patel’s Breitling also appears to have the White House Seal or another insignia at three o’clock.  Patel appears to be a watch nerd with several watches in his collection.  With experience in many three-letter agencies relevant to our community, a Breitling was always going to be the right choice for Patel who has been wearing what looks to be a 46mm titanium Breitling Cockpit B50. We are told that at least one of the Breitlings is a Unit Watch from the previous Trump Administration, with the White House seal at the three o’clock position.  Pete Hegseth - Secretary of Defense  Pete Hegseth, a cohost of Fox and Friends and former Army National Guard officer, is Trump’s pick for Secretary of Defense. Intriguingly, other than older images from Hegseth’s military service in which he is seen wearing a Suunto Observer, the modern Hegseth does not appear to wear a watch. Instead, like many GWOT veterans, he appears to virtually always wear a memorial bracelet. Dating back to the Vietnam War when they were typically worn to honor soldiers captured or missing in action, today, these memorial bracelets typically display the name, rank, and date of the death of a fellow service member. Hegseth wearing a Suunto Observer during his National Guard days. Marco Rubio - Secretary of State The two may have gone toe to toe during Trump’s first run at the White House, with Rubio famously saying in 2016, “If he hadn’t inherited $200 million, you know where Donald Trump would be right now? Selling watches in Manhattan.” However, the pair appears to have worked it out, with Rubio slated to serve as Trump’s new Secretary of State. In most photographs, Rubio wears a blue Roman Numeral dial Rolex DateJust with a fluted bezel, likely a reference 126334 or something similar.  Christian Craighead - Personal Bodyguard to Donald Trump? Craighead wearing a CWC SBS, a watch designed for the Special Boat Service. According to press reporting, former Special Air Service (SAS) Warrant Officer, Christian Craighead was recently hired by Donald Trump as his personal bodyguard with a special emphasis on traveling ahead of the President’s public speaking engagements to locate potential sniper positions. Craighead burst into the public eye when he responded to a 2019 al-Shabaab attack in Nairobi, single-handedly killing five terrorists. Craig wearing a Seiko SNJ025 “Arnie”, a watch enthusiast favorite. Like many current and former members of UK Special Forces, Craighead is also something of a watch guy, having been seen wearing Rolex, Seiko, and Panerai watches in addition to releasing a collaboration with CWC, a brand that famously supplied the Special Boat Service (SBS). Hired for a role that is typically handled by the US Secret Service, it will be interesting to see how Craighead fits into the POTUS’ protection picture as a civilian. Elon Musk - Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency  While his role is technically non-governmental, it appears Elon Musk will have significant influence on the new White House through his appointment as the Czar of the Department of Government Efficiency or DOGE. It would seem that Musk’s interest in watches has waned in recent years, but he was once known for wearing a special SpaceX version of a TAG Heuer Carrera Cailbre 1887, an Omega Aqua Terra, and a Rolex DateJust way back in the day. One can only hope that when Trump’s licensed watches hit the wrists of those who have anxiously pre-ordered, there’s at least one extra lying around for the DOGE Czar.  Tulsi Gabbard - Director of National Intelligence (DNI) A former member of the US House of Representatives from Hawaii’s second district, Tulsi Gabbard was recently selected by Trump as the Director of National Intelligence. Gabbard also has a military background including service with the Hawaii National Guard including a deployment to Iraq and today serves in the Army Reserve as a lieutenant colonel. Despite her background, most photographs show Gabbard wearing what appears to be a no-name fashion watch.  John Ratcliffe - Director of CIA Trump’s pick to head the Agency as Director of CIA or DCIA is John Ratcliffe, a former Texas representative and the Director of National Intelligence from 2020 to 2021. Despite the link between espionage and watches celebrated on W.O.E., Ratcliffe appears to buck the trend as we cannot find a single photo of him wearing a watch. We believe that this makes Ratcliffe the first Director of CIA to NOT wear a watch, a significant moment in the evolution of Watches of Espionage. If anyone has further details, be sure to let us know. Meanwhile, Ratcliffe’s predecessor, Bill Burns, isn’t a watch nerd, either, he does at least wear a straightforward quartz Timex.  Cliff Sims - Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications The author of White House tell-all Team of Vipers: My 500 Extraordinary Days in the Trump White House, Cliff Sims has held several positions relating to US Intelligence and served as the Deputy Director of National Intelligence for Strategy and Communications. With at least some interest in horology, Sims is also one of several owners we have encountered of a “White House Breitling”, a standard Breitling model (it seems like a few are available) customized with the White House Seal and a special engraved caseback. Of note, this Breitling was commissioned for the previous Trump Administration.  In Sims’ case, he hits the sketchy nail on the head with a White House Breitling Aerospace, always great to see.  Matthew Whitaker - US Ambassador to NATO  A former Attorney General, Matthew Whitaker is Trump’s choice for US Ambassador to the North Atlantic Treaty Organization or NATO. In addition to having played college football at the University of Iowa, Whitaker is at least a little bit of a watch guy, having been recently photographed wearing a two-tone Rolex Submariner, quite possibly a reference 126613. This is one of those watches that shows the breadth of the divide between the Submariner’s utilitarian diving roots and its current position on the wrist of a high-powered attorney/politician, but we still love to see it.  Sebastian Gorka - Counterterrorism Chief on the White House National Security Council A television presenter and former Deputy Assistant to the President during Trump’s first term, Sebastian Gorka, who was born in London to Hungarian parents, is the president’s pick for counterterrorism chief. What’s more, Gorka appears to be something of a watch guy. We’ve seen him wearing an Omega Planet Ocean, though it’s hard to discern the exact reference, as well as several more obscure watches on his Instagram. A Sinn 857 showcased in a 2020 post on Gorka’s Instagram. In a post from back in 2020, Gorka showed off his EDC which included a seldom-seen 857 UTC TESTAF. We’ve said this before, but if you’re rocking a Sinn, it isn’t because you picked it up at Macy’s. Watch guys are everywhere.  Final Thoughts One more shot of Cliff Sims’ White House Breitling Aerospace. Politics aside, it’s genuinely nice to see so many “real” watches worn inside the White House. Where digital tool watches (D.T.W.) and smartwatches including the ubiquitous Apple Watch have no doubt taken a sizable chunk of the top of the mechanical watch industry, certain serious individuals continue to value timepieces. Especially in political circles, nothing happens in a vacuum.  At W.O.E., we subscribe to the Use Your Tools ethos, and that includes watches utilized as tools of communication, as is so often the case in politics. In addition, there are a few players in the new White House that are clearly interested in watches, showing once again that watch guys are everywhere.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years

Global watch crime is an enterprise worth an estimated 1.9 billion dollars in 2024. Almost daily, watches from Rolex, Richard Mille, and Patek Philippe are stolen—sometimes violently—from the wrist of a tourist or businessman. But what can you do about it? In the newest episode of W.O.E. TV, we’ll discuss this alarming trend and provide tips for how to travel with a luxury watch. While criminal watch gangs pose an undeniable risk, with a certain amount of forethought and some common sense, it’s possible to enjoy your watches around the world. Don’t be a soft target and always use your tools. Enjoy episode eleven of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Director William Burns Received An Omega Watch From A Foreign Government, Can He Keep It? Last week the State Department published a list of gifts provided by foreign governments to US government officials, including the Office of the President, the Department of Defense, and the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). The media was quick to jump on (and politicize) gifts to President Joe Biden, including a $20,000 7.5-carat diamond from Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi to First Lady Jill Biden. But this annual list offers unique and detailed insight into the role of watches in diplomacy and intelligence including documentation of CIA officers receiving Omega Seamasters, Movados, and even a Rolex-Yachtmaster II valued at $18,700, which was later destroyed. We have discussed at length the use of watches as bribes and operational gifts given by CIA officers, but what happens when CIA officers receive gifts from foreign intelligence services, assets, and developmentals? Can they keep them? The short answer is no, but the real answer is “it depends” (yes). Stick with me here. It Is Against US Law To Accept Expensive Gifts Federal law prohibits US Government officials from receiving gifts that exceed $480, anything below this amount can be deemed as a souvenir or as a “mark of courtesy”. But there are exceptions: A CIA officer may accept the gift if “Non-acceptance would cause embarrassment to donor and U.S. Government”—a very subjective concept. In the intelligence business, where human relationships are at the core of the trade, accepting a gift can often do a lot to further the relationship between a Foreign Intelligence Service (“Liaison”) or even an agent or prospective agent (“developmental”). I would go as far as to say that in many cases accepting a gift can do more to further a clandestine relationship than giving one. A U-Boat watch gifted to a CIA Paramilitary Officer from a European intelligence service. After receipt of a gift, the item immediately becomes the property of the US Government and must be reported within 30 days to the General Services Administration (GSA). At CIA, operational gifts from clandestine sources or foreign intelligence services are immediately documented in an operational cable and a separate gift report. (If I remember correctly, when I was at CIA the amount that required reporting was anything above $50.) Purchase Pending With GSA By default, the items are sent back to CIA headquarters and ultimately destroyed, but there are exceptions. According to the release, on June 18th, 2023, a CIA officer received a green dial steel Rolex Datejust, ref. 126300 from a (redacted) foreign government. Valued at $8,050, the document states that the item is “Purchase Pending with GSA”—which means the officer who received the gift is paying the retail price to the US Government to retain the gift.   (Watch Photo Credit: Debonair Watches) Another CIA officer received a Tsikolia Brand Georgian Defense Forces Watch in February 2023 and purchased it from the GSA for $543.  Many others agreed to forfeit the timepieces, including an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, a Ladies Omega Constellation 31mm, a Rolex Air King ref. 116900, a Rolex Lady-Datejust, and a slew of Movados. A Tsikolia Brand Georgian Defense Forces Watch was also given to a CIA Case Officer in 2023. While many of the officers likely would prefer to keep the watches as mementos, the reality is these gifts can be an expensive purchase for a civil servant. Most CIA officers cannot come up with thousands of dollars on short notice to purchase an unexpected Rolex or Omega.   Retained For Operational Purposes A good friend of mine and former senior CIA executive Anthony “Tony” DeMario told me that during his first overseas tour in a Gulf country in the 1990s, he was given a solid gold Rolex Day-Date from an individual he was developing as a social broker. He was able to retain the watch for operational purposes during that tour as it would have been strange for him to not wear the watch when he met with the individual. Tony ultimately had to forfeit the expensive Rolex to the US Government for destruction. He regrets not purchasing the watch, but he knew he would never be able to pay the retail price of a gold Rolex on a GS-12 paycheck. The Panerai he purchased before his first tour was already a stretch. Tony is not alone. According to the State Department report, in 2023, at least one CIA officer was allowed to keep a Rolex Oyster Datejust for “operational purposes.” What the justification was, we can only speculate, but it was likely to wear when he/she met with the contact who gave it to him/her. Intriguingly, it’s likely the same model as the previous example where the officer chose to purchase the watch from GSA, which could indicate the gifting country is the same as the previous example. (Watch Photo Credit: Legend of Time) As previously documented, I received a Breitling Aerospace from the King of Jordan, a watch that I wore regularly during my career and still have to this day. Fortunately, this was prior to joining CIA so I was able to keep it, but if not would I have had the wherewithal to purchase it if I were a junior CIA officer? I don’t know. A Breitling Aerospace given to W.O.E. by the King of Jordan. A Conflict Of Interest? CIA puts a lot of trust in its officers and this trust is at the core of a functional intelligence service. One of the easiest ways to get fired from CIA is intentionally mishandling money or expenses for personal gain.  Neglecting to report a gift is a serious offense at CIA, and could indicate a possible counterintelligence risk or character flaw.   Former CIA Officer Alexander Yuk Ching Ma was indicted in 2024 for accepting gifts and cash payments in exchange for providing classified information to China. While CIA officers are trained to break laws of foreign countries, contrary to Hollywood's depiction the actual business of intelligence collection is heavily regulated by a team of lawyers and must comply with all US laws. Regular security reinvestigations and polygraphs keep most officers honest, but of course, there are always bad apples. Director CIA William “Bill” Burns & The Omega On 2 February 2023, CIA Director Bill Burns received an (unspecified) Omega watch with an estimated value of $11,000. According to the report, he also received a ceremonial sword and a bischt—a traditional men’s cloak worn in the Gulf region. While the country is redacted, the watch was likely a gift from a Gulf nation. According to press reporting, Director Burns traveled to the Middle East during the first week of February 2023 for a meeting on the Israel-Palestine conflict.   Watches play a significant role in Middle Eastern diplomacy and the Arab world and the Omega could have come from a number of countries that traditionally give watches to dignitaries and intelligence officials, often with their royal crest on the dial. On one of my first days at CIA as a junior trainee, I was provided $20,000 in cash and sent to a watch store in McLean, Virginia, to purchase a timepiece for the Director of CIA to give as a gift to the visiting head of a Middle Eastern intelligence service. The gift was used to build rapport and solidify a personal relationship between the CIA Director and the visiting dignitary. There was a rumor that there was a large closet on the “Seventh Floor” that was full of past gifts to DCIA. Despite my best efforts to find it, they never let me in. Meeting with foreign dignitaries is a key aspect of DCIA’s role. In these exchanges, gifts are often given and received. Alas, despite the deep meaning of watches in the intelligence community and the historic moment of a Director of CIA receiving a watch from a foreign government, Burns apparently was not interested in purchasing the watch and the disposition of the watch is listed as “Destroyed.” DCIA Burns wears a straightforward quartz Timex model. Burns, a career diplomat turned influential CIA Director, appears to wear a modest Timex on a leather strap. It’s a boring but fitting watch for a CIA Director who works quietly behind the scenes to further National Security interests. Guns, Hermes Scarfs, & Chocolates Some experiential gifts, including tickets to an F1 Race, are retained for “Official Use” by CIA Officers. While watches feature prominently in gifts to CIA officers in 2023, gifts also include a “Beretta Hand Gun” (destroyed) and luxury items including Montblanc pens and Hermes scarfs. Some more experiential gifts like Formula One Tickets and Tickets to the Meydan World Cup Horse Race were retained for “Official Use.” These likely would have been used as targeting events or to build relationships with the local intelligence service. While this is speculation, I assess many of the gifts to undercover CIA officers are not actually included on this list (click HERE to see the complete list) and remain classified, though still reported to GSA. Watches will continue to play a role in the secretive world of intelligence and diplomacy. Passed between government officials, timepieces are a memento and often a representation of a partnership between governments or intelligence services. In our community, it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Moscow Rules: Watches of the Widow Spy This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

At W.O.E., we’ve commented on the watches worn by some of history’s most infamous individuals including US Presidents, Usama Bin Laden, and Muammar Gaddafi. In recent years, several watches with provenance calling back to these historical figures have been sold at auction where they garner massive results propelled at least in part by their historical significance. The recent sale of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser’s Rolex for $840,000 is just the latest example. Beyond challenging provenance, the auction world has also seen its share of bad press, with many calling into question the originality of certain high-profile lots including the story of an Omega Speedmaster that was faked with insider help from Omega HQ in Switzerland. Not a good look. We admit we’re no experts in the field of high-profile auctions or vintage watches so we looked to Tony Traina, a talented writer, researcher, and friend of the page to delve deeper into the good, the bad, and the ugly of modern watch auctions. As it turns out, watch auctions are their own wilderness of mirrors. Tony has his own newsletter called Unpolished. If you are interested in learning more, you can subscribe HERE. What The World Of Watch Auctions Reveals About History, Strategy, & Brand Power By Anthony Traina An estimated 5M people attended President Nasser’s funeral in 1970. On October 1, 1970, more than 5 million people attended the funeral of Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser. One of the most respected leaders in the Arab world, Nasser died suddenly at the age of 52. It’s thought to be one of the most-attended funerals in history. Gamal Abdel Nasser (1918–1970) was an Egyptian military officer and revolutionary who became the country's second president, serving from 1956 until his death. A central figure in modern Arab history, he championed Arab nationalism, led the nationalization of the Suez Canal, and pursued policies that transformed Egypt but sometimes sparked regional conflicts and polarized opinions. Nasser wore his Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President” throughout his life. On Nasser’s wrist during most of his time as president: A gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 “President.” It can be seen in various photos, from his negotiations with world leaders to playing with his five children. In December 2024, Nasser’s Rolex Day-Date sold at Sotheby’s New York for $840,000. As far as I can tell, it’s the third most expensive Day-Date ever sold. More than a watch, it’s a historical artifact that tells the story of Nasser and the formation of the modern Arab world. Almost as interesting as the watch and the big result is the rumored buyer: Rolex. Hammering for $840k, Nasser’s Day-Date was reportedly purchased by Rolex. (Photo Credit: Sotheby's) It’s just the latest example of a brand purportedly buying one of its own historically important watches at auction. Patek Philippe, Zenith, TAG Heuer, and even Movado are all known to be active in the auction market. The influx of money into watches has turned auctions into big business, with brands' moves—whether covert or public—highlighting both the opportunities and risks. Understanding the players, their motives, and behind-the-scenes dynamics is key to finding extraordinary watches at auctions; without a strategy, you risk costly mistakes. What Is A Watch Auction? (Photo Credit: Christie’s) A few times a year, the major international auction houses—Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s—host watch-themed auctions in the world’s major horological hubs of Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong. It’s where the most historically important, expensive, and rare watches typically come for sale. But they’re not without controversy, the most notable scandal involving a record-breaking Omega Speedmaster in 2021 that turned out to be a put-together “Frankenwatch.” The Omega Speedmaster “Frankenwatch” sold in 2021 for $3.4M. (Photo Credit: Phillips) While auctions are public affairs and record-breaking results garner headlines, the real stories and action happen behind the scenes. Covering the watch industry, I’ve attended several watch auctions. I’ve seen Rolex representatives bidding in the auction room for their historical pieces, methodically building a collection ranging from some of the best-preserved examples in the world (paying millions for top-condition Milgauss and Daytona examples) to the most historically important. But auctions aren’t just for high-end pieces. I’ve bought watches at major and regional auctions – and from familiar toolmakers like Heuer and Enicar, not top luxury brands like Patek Philippe. There’s something for everyone if you know how to navigate it. From Watch To Historical Artifact The caseback on Nasser’s Rolex tells a story. (Photo Credit: Tony Traina) Take Nasser’s Day-Date. Its caseback engraving begins to tell its full story: “Mr. Anwar El Sadat 26-9-1963” Anwar El Sadat, a lifelong friend of Nasser and fellow graduate of the Egyptian Military Academy, became Egypt's vice president in 1969 and succeeded Nasser as president in 1970. Nasser can be seen wearing the Day-Date while he visited soldiers and negotiated with diplomats, reshaping the modern Arab world – a witness to history in a way few objects are. Rolex purchased a GMT-Master formerly belonging to Pan-Am pilot Captain Clarence Warren for CHF 177,800. (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) It’s far from the first watch Rolex has won. Luckily, these watches haven’t been doomed to some vault deep beneath Rolex HQ in Geneva. At Watches & Wonders last year, Rolex displayed several historically important GMT-Masters to celebrate the launch of a new GMT-Master II. This included Captain Clarence Warren’s GMT-Master ref. 6542 (which sold at auction for CHF 177,800), worn on the first Pan-Am flight from New York to Moscow, when then-Vice President Richard Nixon requested Warren to pilot his visit to the Soviet Union. For his airborne accomplishments, Rolex would later feature Capt. Warren in an advertising campaign. Also on display was Jack Swigert’s Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn while he was the command module pilot of Apollo 13.  As W.O.E. has covered before, modern watch brands are machines dedicated to marketing as much as mechanics. The activity of these brands in the auction market is no different. These big auction results make headlines in mainstream news, helping to reposition luxury watches as heritage objects that can last generations and even witness history. It’s the type of storytelling and brand-building that brands dream of. A LIP belonging to Charles de Gaulle sold for over $500k. (Photo Credit: Artcurial) And these big results aren’t limited to Rolex. Former French President Charles de Gaulle’s electric LIP watch recently sold in an auction of his personal effects for more than $500,000. In an auction of hundreds of his personal items, it’s his watch—a simple electric model from a French maker – that sold for five times more than any of his journals, letters, or medallions. Sure, it’s marketing, but it wouldn’t be so effective if it didn’t hold a grain of truth. Especially through the middle of the 20th century, the men and women making history often had watches on their wrists as they led their governments, piloted command modules, or served their country. These were tools that helped guide those who shaped or reshaped the world. Strategic Operations & Watch Auctions A Tudor Submariner issued to the South African Navy. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Somewhere along the way, many of these toolmakers turned into luxury brands. Of course, they still make tools too—for civilians or the military—but auctions are another public stage upon which the secretive drama of the Swiss watch industry now plays out. While the spectacle of auctions and the high prices capture headlines, the real story happens behind the scenes. Auctions are also more accessible than ever. All offer online, phone, and in-person bidding, with the largest auctions often having more than 2,000 registered bidders. Preparation is key: evaluating the watches, understanding the players, acting with discipline and strategy, and avoiding the emotion of the moment. If you’re looking to get involved in auctions, whether you’re spending $100 or $100,000 here are a few tips to get started. Understand The Incentives (Photo Credit: Phillips) Auction Houses & Specialists: Every party comes to an auction with its own incentives and acts accordingly. The most important to know is that auction houses represent the seller, not the buyer. Their goal is to achieve the highest price for the consignor of the watch. Of course, they want both buyer and seller to be happy, and there is the risk of reputational damage if deals go south. But their goal is to achieve the best result for their client, the seller. Auction houses make money by charging a commission on sales (called the “buyer’s premium”), typically somewhere in the range of 25 to 27 percent. This means they typically don’t take a financial stake in a watch, but make money by selling the watch. While they will provide information and condition reports, keep all of this in mind when reviewing the information provided. The goal will be to illustrate the potential of a lot without focusing on its issues or making any guarantees. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Buyers (Dealers, Collectors, Brands): Anyone can throw their hat in the ring and bid at an auction, but they may have different goals. Private collectors want to own historically important watches for all the reasons a collector might – from pure passion to pure ego. Watch out for the latter: ego knows no rationality. As we’ve discussed, brands might also bid at auctions. This could be to acquire historically important pieces for their archives or museums. Or, they might want to “protect” the perception of their brand on the secondary market. Either way, it’s important to know that big-time, institutional money might be after a lot, particularly if it has historical importance. Finally, dealers are always lurking. If there’s an opportunity to resell a watch for more money, expect a dealer’s paddle to go up. For large institutional dealers that hold significant inventory, there also may be incentives to bid up certain watches to “protect” the value of their existing inventory. For example, a well-known secondary market player has significant stock in indies De Bethune and F.P. Journe and is known to actively support those markets at auction. The Crowd: There’s also the crowd. That’s everyone from media to influencers to curious onlookers. They cover the news and can amplify record-breaking or scandalous results to generate clicks or headlines. Do Your Homework & Build Your Own Relationships (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) In the watch industry, professionals often move between roles—media members move to auctions, dealers become specialists, and vice versa. All are invested in maintaining a healthy market and ensuring steady growth, so buyers feel confident in spending on expensive watches. This means they all have their own relationships and generally don’t want to disrupt the status quo. This dynamic explains why it’s important to build your own relationships before spending significant sums at auction. This requires being on the ground to assess the situation. When possible, it’s best to attend auctions and auction previews in person. Watch auction previews are a great watch to learn more about vintage watches. (Photo Credit: Asharq Al-Awsat) Auction previews are perhaps the best way to experience vintage watches in person. You’ll hear stories from specialists that don’t make their way into catalogs. But it’s also the best way to make connections, assess watches, and learn. Put your ear to the ground and see if you catch any gossip (there’s always gossip). On the day of the auction, being in the room is the only way to get a feel for the important players, who’s bidding on what, and the general vibe of the sale. Because auction specialists ultimately represent the seller, it’s often helpful to have an independent third-party dealer you trust to help vet watches. Once you develop a personal relationship with auction specialists, they are also more likely to tell you more information about a watch. Flaws that might not be readily disclosed but that they’re comfortable telling to a valued client. Last Call (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Watch auctions, though public, carry a certain air of espionage. Specialists whisper discreetly into phones, connecting with clients around the globe. When brands like Rolex bid, they often don’t even raise a paddle; a nod to the auctioneer often suffices – visible only to those who know to look for it. While these professionals act in rational self-interest, they may exploit private collectors driven by passion. That’s why coming to auctions well-informed is essential. Armed with knowledge, you can bid strategically. If you’re ready to try your hand at auctions – good luck! If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Inside Look At The Swiss Watch Industry About The Author: Tony Traina is the editor and founder of Unpolished, a weekly newsletter about what’s really happening in watches. He’s a former editor at Hodinkee. Subscribe to receive Unpolished in your inbox.

 Is Jennifer Fairgate's Watch A Clue? In 1995, an unidentified woman was found dead under mysterious circumstances in a luxurious Oslo hotel. Was “Jennifer Fairgate” an assassin, spy, or a troubled woman looking to disappear? Her watch, a Citizen Aqualand, could be the clue to solving a complex puzzle that reads like a Hollywood thriller. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we explore a mystery death in Oslo. For our latest episode of W.O.E. TV, we adapt one of our all-time most popular Dispatch articles into a mini-documentary about a three-decade-old mystery. This one has it all. From a single gunshot ringing out behind a locked hotel door to possible Soviet espionage or organized crime connections to a legendary dive watch that could be the key to unlocking the true story behind Jennifer Fairgate’s death. Enjoy episode ten of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Espionage In Luxury, Trump Tariffs, Watch Crime, & The Watches Of Middle-Eastern Leaders By Benjamin Lowry It’s time for the December edition of our Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap of the previous month’s watch-related news, and any other current events related to our community, paired with our commentary. Tomorrow, we’ll kick off 2025, but before we put a bow on the past year, let’s take a closer look at December’s watch-related happenings. December didn’t disappoint, with espionage making the news at the highest echelons of luxury goods, the watches of Syrian leaders, and new tariffs on the horizon that will likely significantly impact watch brands. In addition, we take a closer look at yet another instance of watch crime targeting a comedian friend of none other than Joe Rogan before discussing the auction of a Rolex owned by Gamal Abdel Nasser, the former President of Egypt. Buckle up, it’s time for the SITREP. Luxury’s Most Powerful Man Takes The Stand In Corporate Espionage Trial (Photo Credit: AFP) While espionage is often the work of state actors and the military, intelligence tradecraft works just as well, and is just as common, in the corporate world. Earlier this month, Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH and one of the world’s richest men, was called to testify in the French trial of Bernard Squarcini, a former head of France’s domestic security service—a spy in other words. Squarcini was hired as a consultant by LVMH to help monitor counterfeiting and more interestingly keep track of some of the group’s left-wing adversaries, allegedly breaking more than a few laws in the process. (Photo Credit: Reuters) Unsurprisingly, Arnault said he didn’t know anything about any illegal surveillance or other illicit activities. In any case, the trial is a rare glimpse into an often unseen world where huge corporations are willing to pay big bucks—and break the law—to protect their image and bottom line. Along with the Swatch and Richemont Groups and Rolex/Tudor, LVHM is among the largest conglomerates in watches, serving as the parent organization behind TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, and Bulgari, among other brands. Syrian Rebel Leader Changes Watches As He Seeks To Become Statesman Al-Jolani made the change from a digital tool watch to a more refined Seiko as he molded himself into a statesman. When “rebel leader” Abu Mohammed al-Jolani overthrew the Assad regime earlier this month, taking control of Syria in the process, he wore the de facto Middle Eastern rebel uniform: olive drab fatigues and a black plastic digital tool watch (D.T.W.). Since then, al-Jolani has made a noticeable shift in his appearance, from bad-guy-in-a-GWOT-movie to a bonafide Banana Republic head of state. Once again demonstrating the power of watches in sending a message, al-Jolani also swapped watches from his tactical digital model to a much more refined Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1. The Seiko Kinetic SRN045P1 is Ahmed al-Sharaa’s watch of choice when in head-of-state mode. The Seiko is not expensive by watch standards but is also not out of place in his new role as he seeks international legitimacy. Whether the watch plays a part or not, the changes seem to be working. Al-Jolani, who now prefers to be called by his real name, Ahmed al-Sharaa, has been busy entertaining throngs of diplomats from around the world in recent weeks, all with a Seiko on his wrist. An Al-Assad-signed Rolex Submariner was auctioned by Antiquorum in November. (Photo Credit: Antiquorum) Often in the news for the wrong reasons, Syria has always been an interesting historical footnote for watch enthusiasts, with the Al-Assad regime famously ordering numerous Rolex models including the Submariner, Explorer II, and Sea-Dweller, typically with Hafez Al-Assad’s signature on the dial. For more on Assad’s watches, see a previous Dispatch on Watches Of The Middle East. Trump’s Promised Tariffs Could Make Already Expensive Watches A Lot More Costly (Photo Credit: AP) President-Elect Donald Trump has promised to invoke new tariffs targeting Mexico, Canada, and China as early as his first day in office. These tariffs, essentially a tax on goods coming from these countries, will amount to 25% for Mexico and Canada and a 10% increase to any existing tariffs for China. (He previously threatened 60% tariffs on goods from China). In China’s case, Trump specifically states the tariffs will continue until the country ceases its illegal import of fentanyl into the United States. Whether they say “Swiss Made” on the dial or not, many watch components come from China. (Photo Credit: European Press Photo Agency) The rising tariffs for goods manufactured in China will likely mean higher prices for the watch industry as many raw materials and finished components are Chinese, including parts of watches that claim to be “Swiss-made”. This could have a particular impact on microbrands, which rely on China for cost-effective manufacturing. At the moment, it’s unclear how it will shake down if these tariffs come to pass, but with around 20% of Swiss watchmaking being imported to the United States through the US arms of Swiss watch brands, one would imagine these higher costs will eventually be passed on to US consumers. Comedian Hans Kim Drugged & Robbed Of Rolex & $25k In Cash Hans Kim wearing his (now-stolen) Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: Time & Tide) If you’ve read the SITREP before, you know we like to catch our monthly dose of watch-related crime. This month, the growing luxury watch robbery trend touched the fringes of celebrity when Hans Kim, a comedian and friend of Joe Rogan, was robbed of his Rolex by a woman he brought back to his place. This story comes from episode 2238 of The Joe Rogan Experience, where Rogan describes Kim losing his Rolex and “25,000 dollars in cash” after waking up alone the morning after meeting what he thought was a nice young lady. According to Rogan, testing later revealed Kim had a lot of Xanax in his system. Apparently, Kim’s lady friend put crushed-up Xannies in his drink the night before to put him to sleep, making him an easy target. Also, who on Earth (besides Diddy) has $25k lying around their house? Luckily, though out 25 grand a Rolex, Kim appears to be unharmed. We’ve said this before, but if you’re a solid six and a ten walks up to you in a bar anxious to take you home, be suspicious. It’s possible they’re not only interested in your sense of humor. James Stacey, Hodinkee’s New Editor-In-Chief While we normally don’t cover industry news as such, we’d like to take a moment to congratulate our friend James Stacey who recently took the reins as Editor-In-Chief over at Hodinkee. James is a good dude, half of the team at TGN along with Jason Heaton, a gifted writer/photographer, and a longtime believer in the Use Your Tools ethos, at least when it comes to GMTs. James is a friend of both W.O.E. and myself and has been a great resource as we have grown our platform. While we admit Hodinkee has faced its share of challenges in recent years, we’re excited and hopeful to see where the platform goes with Stacey at the editorial helm. Rolex Purchases A 1963 President Day-Date Belonging To President Gamal Abdel Nasser of Egypt (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) On December 6th, a 1963 gold President Day-Date sold at a Sotheby’s auction for an astonishing $840,000, well over the auction house’s $60k estimate. Far from the average mid-century Rolex, this watch was owned by late Egyptian President Gamal Nasser and given to him by Anwar El Sadat, his successor, in 1963. Dripping with provenance, the case back offers an inscription from Sadat, and the watch has been in family hands since Nasser’s passing in 1970, right up until his grandson elected to put it up for auction. Presidents Eisenhower and Nasser, photographed in New York in 1960. Nasser’s Rolex is just visible. Nasser was responsible for the 1952 revolution that destroyed Egypt’s British-controlled monarchy. His influence on the country’s political landscape and the broader Arab world’s relationship with the West are difficult to overstate. Intriguingly, the watch was purchased by the Rolex organization, marking another example of the Crown curating its history by buying important watches at auction, including a GMT-Master worn by Apollo 17 Command Module Pilot Ron Evans. We’ve written at length about watches and world leaders, but suffice it to say that especially for heads of state, a watch is never just a watch. We have asked our friend Tony Traina what this really means and he has pledged to write a more in-depth Dispatch in the near future, stay tuned. Final Thoughts With only a few days left in 2024, we hope you’ve enjoyed this holiday-sized portion of watch industry news and our pedantic commentary. Whether it’s Bernard Arnault catchin’ smoke over corporate espionage, new Trump tariffs that might make your next Seamaster more expensive than ever, a Syrian rebel leader’s watch transformation, a comedian being drugged and robbed of his Rolex, or the Crown itself buying yet another historically-important watch, December provided a ho-ho-whole lot of watch goodies to capture our attention. Before we close out the year, thanks again for your support. We’ve been amazed to see W.O.E. grow from the Instagram page that started it all to the website to our collection of purpose-built tools to the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Stay tuned. Happy New Year from all of us at W.O.E. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - November 2024

Omega Unit Watches, Vladimir Putin, The Seiko 6309, & A Black Pelagos FXD - It’s Been A Big Year With 2024 drawing to a close, let’s take a moment to recap some of the top Dispatch articles from this past year. To put it mildly, the W.O.E. Dispatch has grown by leaps and bounds, from sharing never-before-seen Omega Unit Watches to digging into the history of the legendary Seiko 6309 to picking some of our favorite military watches on the market. We have no plans to slow down in the new year, but for now, let’s see what resonated with our community in 2024. 10. CIA Timepiece Analysis: President Putin and Tucker Carlson Back in February, former Fox News talk show host Tucker Carlson interviewed former KGB officer and current Russian President Vladimir Putin in Moscow. While much of the media coverage focused on the controversy surrounding Tucker, in this Dispatch, we focus on what we know best: the watches present at the meeting in the Kremlin. Putin’s watch history is particularly interesting as is his habit of removing his watch before interviews including this one. Continue Reading 9. Sangin Instruments - The Marine-Owned “Raider Rolex” I first heard of Sangin Instruments during TDY travel to a war zone while at CIA. At the time, I was responsible for a counterterrorism Covert Action program in the Middle East and I was traveling to visit the program on a flight with other CIA officers. During that trip, I began to notice Sangin Instruments watches on the wrists of SpecOps personnel, CIA paramilitary officers, and other case officers. For this closer look at the brand, I sat down with Sangin founder Jacob Servantes for a deep dive into how Sangin Instruments came to be. Continue Reading 8. The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD Customizing My Dream Watch, The W.O.E. PVD Pelagos FXD When Tudor released the Black Pelagos FXD last year, I instantly knew I wanted one to land in my collection. Watches of Espionage is vehemently brand agnostic, but we have a special respect for Tudor, given the brand's seven-plus decade relationship with our community. The latest manifestation of that link, the Pelagos FXD, is the only modern “luxury” watch that was developed in collaboration with modern SpecOps units. Here, I discuss not only acquiring the Pelagos FXD but also my personal journey to have the watch PVD-coated. Continue Reading 7. Dear Panerai, Stop Putting the Navy SEAL Trident On Watches An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage Back in 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection”, intended for purchase by the public and not exclusively Navy SEALs. The prices range from $10,000 to $60,000, and the high-end models include an invitation to a multi-day Special Operations experience (Xperience) which is, for lack of a better term, corny. In this Dispatch, we examine why slapping a SEAL Trident on a watch is not the right thing to do for so many reasons and on so many levels. Continue Reading 6. The Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. Backed by a somewhat unhealthy fascination with illicit activity, arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, and organized crime, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. After all, there’s nothing like first-hand experience Continue Reading 5. The Most Iconic Military Watch Of All Time? The Seiko 6309 One Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. In this Dispatch, W.O.E. team member Benjamin Lowry argues the humble 6309 is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades. Issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others, Ben might even be right. Continue Reading 4. Bezels & Blades - Tools With A Purpose Timepieces & Watches Have Deep Meaning In The NatSec Community For our community, watches are tools, functional items we integrate into our daily lives. Meant to last a lifetime and be passed down to the next generation, their “value” isn’t monetary, it's derived from our shared experiences with these inanimate objects. There are a lot of parallels between our relationship with timepieces and knives, two things that are present with every SpecOps and intelligence practitioner both historically and today. In this piece, we explore the relationship between bezels and blades. Continue Reading 3. The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members While we admit most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. Continue Reading 2. A Mystery Death in Oslo, An Intelligence Op Gone Wrong? An unidentified woman was found dead in a luxury Oslo hotel. Was “Jennifer Fairgate” an assassin, spy, or a troubled woman looking to disappear? Her timepiece is a clue to solving a complex puzzle that reads like a Hollywood thriller. In this mystery Dispatch, we discuss what is known about Jennifer Fairgate’s death while also sharing our theories about the real story behind the young woman who died in an Oslo hotel room all those years ago. Continue Reading 1. Omega's Modern Unit Watch Program Frogmen, SEALs, & The US Secret Service Omega has a long history of producing watches for the military, most notably the classic Seamaster 300 made for the British Royal Navy. Today the company is continuing that history with special production “Unit Watches,” and appears to have standardized its program, offering a unique Seamaster Diver 300M solely to military and law enforcement units. The options for customization include the unit insignia on the caseback as well as a name/call sign or other identifier associated with the individual. In this piece, we share Omega Unit Watches from the Danish Frogman Corps, US Secret Service, US Navy SEALs, and other legendary units. Continue Reading – Thanks again to everyone who read an article in 2024. We couldn’t do any of this without you. We have a lot more in store for 2025. Happy Holidays and stay tuned. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Top Dispatch Articles of 2023 - Watches of Espionage

Would St. Nick Opt For A Diver, GMT, Or A Chronograph On The Big Night? While you may think of Santa Claus as an overweight yet jolly friend to children everywhere, there is more to St. Nick than meets the eye. Santa is a spymaster. This is a man who keeps tabs on all of the world’s children from the safety of the North Pole through a complex intel network primarily staffed by elves, some real 1984 stuff if you ask me. Utilizing a covert influence campaign, Santa convinces us this dystopian reality is not only ok but that we should cherish it, altering our daily behavior to win his favor and access to his fat sack of toys. One night a year, Santa suits up in a full tactical holiday loadout. Santa makes surreptitious entry into millions of homes with military-like precision. The original Yuletide Gangster. Like clandestine operators from the world of intelligence or SpecOps, Santa is screwed if the operation is compromised by some kid straight off the naughty list posting him to TikTok with a mouth full of cookies and milk. Luckily, St. Nick’s tradecraft is tight. Vintage Rolex Xmas ad, World War II - 1942 (Rolex Magazine) Given the nature of his work, Santa Claus is mission-focused and subscribes to the Use Your Tools ethos. At W.O.E., we know Santa also puts a lot of thought into which timepiece to bring into action on the big night. To avoid ubiquitous technical surveillance (UTS), Father Christmas can’t be rolling out with an Apple Watch. He can’t risk being tracked across the night sky by NORAD and intercepted by F-22s. With kids around the world safely snoring in bed trusting Santa to come through, the stakes couldn’t be higher. Everything, including Santa’s watch, has to be good to go. In this special holiday Dispatch, we’ll have some fun and unseriously recommend a few timepieces providing legitimate utility to the big man from the North Pole. If any of you disagree with our picks or have suggestions of your own, let the holiday spirit flow through you right into the comments section. Breitling Emergency II Sneaking into millions of peoples’ homes while they sleep. A worldwide network of clandestine elves monitoring your every move. A flying sleigh. The entire concept is sketchy. As we have proven many times, sketchy dudes wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. For St. Nick, the right Breitling for the job was always going to be the Emergency II, the modern successor to the legendary Emergency that became favored by SpecOps and intelligence professionals during the ‘90s and early 2000s. The Emergency is a digital quartz-powered timepiece, meaning Santa is going to get all of the multi-timezone and timing functions he could ever need or want. And if the worst should happen and an adversarial entity somehow shoots Santa out of the cool night sky, the Emergency still has its position indicating radio beacon, meaning his team of Pararescue elves will be able to locate and recover Santa in time to save the day. Rolex GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710 If it ain’t a sketchy Breitling, our next pic for Santa is going to have to be a Rolex GMT, specifically the GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710. We have often called the GMT-Master family the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch, offering easy tracking of multiple timezones as well as durability while also looking the part in virtually every scenario. As far as we know, Santa isn’t on the Agency’s payroll, but that doesn’t mean he isn’t a master of espionage and exactly the right type of guy for a GMT-Master. Details matter. You’ll notice we’ve selected an older reference 16710 with a red and black “Coke” bezel. This is not only to match Santa’s suit but also a sure sign Santa isn’t following hype culture and reaching for the newest ceramic bezel variants from the Crown. A dude who measures his life in centuries ain’t got time for hype. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Given Santa’s high-altitude sleigh-riding escapades, we can’t help but wonder whether Mr. Claus relies on any kind of supplemental oxygen. Up there, he’s more or less a Yuletide astronaut, and that element, combined with the importance of speed as Christmas Eve turns into Christmas Day, means the Omega Speedmaster is a perfect choice for jolly old St. Nick. To fit the watch over his big red suit, we’d imagine Santa would equip his Speedmaster with a Five Eye Nylon strap. Utility is everything. In addition to its low-pressure resistance, the Speedmaster’s chronograph functionality would also come in handy when you consider that Santa needs to move from house to house with the quickness to get the job done. A watch that proved itself both on the Moon as well as on Apollo 13 when a Speedy was used to time a crucial engine burn to get the astronauts back to Earth safely, the Speedmaster is also no stranger to high-stakes operations, exactly the kind of thing you need when you have exactly one night to spread Christmas cheer to all of the good girls and boys. G-Shock DW6900-1V A watch commonly issued to the SpecOps community including US Navy SEALs, we’d argue a regular old G-Shock would also be rugged enough for Santa’s holiday ops. Despite what you may think about Santa being more of an aviation guy, we’d wager Santa has graduated from several specialized pipelines in his lengthy career as an Arctic operator. To remain hidden, who’s to say Santa doesn’t have to conduct the occasional combat dive followed by an over-the-beach infiltration? In any case, the G-Shock is up for it, with chronograph, elapsed time, secondary time zone, and alarm functions to make sure Santa hits each house precisely on time. Whether it’s chimneys, trees, sleigh-riding, or general covert operations, the G-Shock is durable and, even if it is damaged, easily and cheaply replaced, not that St. Nick is afraid of spending a few bucks to keep up his watch game. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT There’s also a chance St. Nick subscribes to the theory and practice of Tudors Of Espionage (T.O.E.). One of the leaders of the modern Unit Watch scene, Tudor has produced special versions of its Pelagos collection for Tier One SpecOps units, the US Secret Service Counter Assault Team, and the French Commando Hubert. Whether Santa would go for a customized Tudor or not is unclear (maybe Rudolph on the caseback?), but we think the new Pelagos FXD GMT is a great option nonetheless. For one, the FXD’s fixed lug design means Santa won’t lose the thing in a tussle, and the addition of GMT functionality is also a plus. 200 meters of water resistance is great for peace of mind, and the fully lumed dial and bezel are going to be great for Christmas Eve work. The titanium case is also a great option as Santa agonizes over every gram to keep his sleigh as lightweight and speedy as possible. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Another brand with close ties to our community and military aviation in particular, an IWC would also be a perfect choice for Santa. Though he may not be a graduate of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, we’d argue that with centuries of high-speed flying chops aboard his magical sleigh, St. Nick is as qualified a pilot as any. Many of the aspects that make a great pilot’s watch also make it a solid choice for Santa. Legibility is there, especially in the dark. The lightweight and durable ceramic case is also handy. And, of course, having a chronograph is great for timing a team of elves that is often getting into mischief. Drip is also key, and the subtle red highlights on the dial match Santa’s fit to a T. Seriously, W.O.E.? Watches For Santa? If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with us. One of our goals at W.O.E. is to never take ourselves too seriously, balancing the hard-hitting historical pieces of profiles with the odd fun article when and where it makes sense. If you laughed, great. If you didn’t, that’s ok and please be sure to leave a snarky comment down below. The past year has been big for W.O.E. We added our first full-time team member, started a YouTube Channel, and produced more articles than ever before. With that said, we have a ton in store for 2025 we can’t wait to share with y’all. I know we say it all the time, but we truly couldn’t do any of this without you. Thanks again and happy holidays. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands

Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is somewhat outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends about their favorite books on the CIA and the world of intelligence to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. This is the second list focused on CIA, traditional espionage, and foreign intelligence collection. For the first installment looking at books covering the Global War On Terror, see HERE. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. Modern Intelligence Collection In Books The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service, Henry A. Crumpton From serving in the pre-digital age in Africa to helping coordinate the CIA’s Predator drone programs, Henry A. Crumpton’s career in intelligence is carefully chronicled in The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service. While much has changed, Crumpton also underlines the basic tradecraft principles that have stood the test of time. This is a great primer on the world of intelligence and life as a C/O at the CIA, absent much of the bravado common in CIA memoirs. The Good Spy: The Life and Death of Robert Ames, Kai Bird A legend in the intelligence community, Robert Ames was credited with helping to heal the rift between Arabs and the West before he was killed in a bombing on the American embassy in Beirut in 1983. Intriguingly, Bird is a journalist who knew Ames as a child, and crafted this book from his firsthand experience with Ames as well as countless interviews with global intelligence professionals. Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters After the attacks on 9/11, the CIA received over 150,000 applications from Americans wanting to join the Global War On Terror’s espionage effort. Around 100 students were selected for Class 11, the first CIA training course convened after the darkest day in modern American history. In Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters, a Class 11 graduate, shares an insider view of a new generation of CIA Case Officers preparing for war. Of note, some inside CIA will roll their eyes at this recommendation, but it is the best insight I have seen on the training pipeline and specifically the long course at “The Farm.” Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda, Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton, & Henry R. Schlesinger Juxtaposed against the Cold War, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and evolving terrorist threats, Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda is a never-before-seen look at the technology that makes espionage possible. Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson Intelligence collection is a morally ambiguous trade. In Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson, a CIA veteran, tackles the challenging moral and ethical challenges facing the modern intelligence community. Describing a lack of firm guidance from the Agency on what constitutes inappropriate tradecraft, Olson illustrates how that uncertainty hampers Case Officers in the field, making an already complicated and dangerous job even more perilous. I read this book while at CIA and found it thought-provoking and a must-read for anyone in the community. Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior, Ric Prado After fleeing war-torn Cuba as a child, Ric Prado served with US Air Force Pararescue before joining CIA and rising through the ranks of the CIA over a 24-year career. Having served in Central Asia, Peru, the Philippines, Korea, and numerous other classified locations, Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior is Prado’s memoir of a life lived in the shadows. Prado also has several notable watches including the Blackwater Emergency and a Tudor Submariner. The Targeter, Nada Bakos Targeters are one of the most important and least understood career tracks at CIA, and this book provides some great insight. Joining the Agency as an analyst, Nada Bakos rose to the rank of Targeting Officer, playing a central role in unraveling the connections between 9/11 and Al Qaeda during the Global War On Terror. The Targeter is a powerful firsthand account of one woman’s story of selfless sacrifice and the incredible work being done by professionals within the intelligence community. The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, David Priess Every day, the President of the United States is handed a daily brief (PDB) summarizing important intelligence-related issues and events as well as potential threats to the United States. David Priess’s volume, The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, tells the history of what some call “The Book” and its influence on national security and geopolitics. Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, Michael V. Hayden In Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, General Michael V. Hayden shares his experiences as the former leader of both the NSA and CIA, saying, “I bear no grudges, or at least not many, but I do want this to be a straightforward and readable history for that slice of the American population who depend on and appreciate intelligence, but who do not have the time to master its many obscure characteristics."   This is a great primer on the intelligence community at various levels and deals with some of the issues related to the future of the IC. The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives, Ted Gup Ted Gup’s chilling and well-researched The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives tackles the often untold stories of the people behind the 71 stars carved into a marble wall at CIA HQS, each representing an intelligence professional who lost their life in the line of duty. Many of these stories may be still classified, but I will note it was required reading for new recruits at CIA. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw, Mark Bowden Mark Bowden, a legendary journalist and the author of Black Hawk Down, chronicles the violent rise to power and fall of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most legendary drug kingpin, in Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw. Beirut Rules: The Murder of a CIA Station Chief and Hezbollah's War Against America, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz In Beirut Rules, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz unpack Hezbollah’s war against America in the 1980s and the terror organization’s ultimately successful quest to kill William Buckley, a CIA Case Officer assigned to Beirut after the 1983 bombing of the American embassy in Lebanon that killed Robert Ames. The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, Douglas London In Douglas London’s The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, the 34-year veteran of the CIA describes his experience working in American intelligence both before and after 9/11, calling into question how the Agency has adapted and how it must continue to evolve. A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA, Duane R. Clarridge (Author) & Digby Diehl Another memoir from a seasoned CIA Case Officer, Duane R. Clarridge’s A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA is a behind-the-scenes account of the state of American intelligence from the point of view of the former Deputy Director of the CIA. The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture, Ishmael Jones The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture is author Ishmael Jones’ plea for reform within the Agency, specifically citing intelligence shortfalls and other missteps caused by the culture of the world of intelligence. This book is highly critical of CIA, which is actually a good thing. If you are truly interested in learning about the organization, it's important to read positive and negative takes to get a full picture. Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China, David Wise Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China tells the story of China’s unseen espionage war against the United States, much of it perpetrated while American attention was focused on the Soviet Union. From double agents to cybersecurity, author David Wise paints a picture of a Chinese intelligence machine that is not to be underestimated. David Wise has some other great books on espionage including Spy- The Inside Story of How the FBI's Robert Hanssen Betrayed America. The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA, Liza Mundy Historically a male-dominated field, The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA tells the story of the incredible contributions made by women to the world of intelligence and national security. Of note, some of the best officers I worked with were women and this book tells some of their stories. Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History, Antonio Mendez & Matt Baglio A more in-depth look at the real-life story that inspired 2012’s Argo film starring Ben Affleck, Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History is CIA Technical Officer Tony Mendez’s account of his role in smuggling six American hostages out of Tehran in 1979. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, Jack Devine & Vernon Loeb With over 30 years in the business of United States intelligence, Jack Devine finished his career overseeing the Directorate of Operations. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, is Devine’s overarching guide to the concept of spycraft, the combined set of tactics, techniques, and procedures utilized by CIA and other intelligence agencies. Inside the CIA, Ronald Kessler Ronald Kessler’s Inside the CIA is a rare officially sanctioned look inside America’s intelligence service, focusing on the Agency’s organization, mission, and accomplishments. If you’re looking for a primer on what the CIA is and how it operates, this book is an excellent place to start. Transforming U.S. Intelligence, Jennifer E Sims & Burton Gerber (Editors) Transforming U.S. Intelligence is an almost scholarly work assembling the insights of numerous contributors with firsthand experience in the world of intelligence. Based on learnings from the missing weapons of mass destruction in Iraq and critical missteps in the lead-up to 9/11, this book aims to describe how United States intelligence can learn from its shortfalls to be more effective in an uncertain future. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, J.K. Rowling Early in my career at CIA, I focused solely on nonfiction thinking that fiction was a waste of time. That said, many intelligence and NatSec failures boil down to a failure of imagination. Feeding your brain with fiction like Harry Potter is a great way to teach yourself to think outside the box.   The More You Know Separating fact from fiction when it comes to the CIA is challenging, with so much public perception around the world of espionage being inspired by Hollywood’s portrayals of Jason Bourne or James Bond. Targeted strikes, covert action, and high-stakes clandestine meetings do happen, and many are described within these volumes, but the realities facing intelligence professionals are often more subtle, nuanced, and intriguing. While this is not an exhaustive list, these titles represent an excellent jumping-off point for anyone hoping to hear firsthand stories from inside the United States intelligence apparatus. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

I Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches is obvious. Based on a watchmaking tradition going back centuries, Switzerland is home to the majority of luxury watch brands from Patek Phillipe and Rolex to Tissot and Hublot. The country’s connections to espionage are less understood. A historically neutral country, Switzerland houses several international organizations including the United Nations in Geneva, and is often the location of high-stakes intergovernmental meetings both overt and clandestine. Traditionally loose banking laws have also made Switzerland a convenient place for individuals to store wealth, regardless of the origin of those financial gains.    Needless to say, Switzerland is a country that I have visited many times and holds a special place in my heart. W.O.E. at Omega SA in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland The intentions for this trip were simple: to learn more about the Swiss watch industry and specifically brands that are closely aligned with our community. While Omega, Tudor, IWC, and Breitling are very different companies, the one thing they have in common is decades-old relationships with our community. Initially producing purpose-built issued military watches in the 20th century, today these brands are the leaders of modern unit watch programs.  IWC’s pilot’s watches, Omega’s Seamasters, Tudor’s extensive dive line, and Breitling's aviation-centric collection are accurately depicted as luxury items today, but they were all once purpose-built tools. “Watches of Espionage” is in the DNA of each of these companies and I would go as far as to say they would not exist or be where they are today without military end users. Breitling manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (W.O.E.) I was fortunate to meet with CEOs, watch designers/watchmakers, suits, and most relevant to W.O.E., the individuals that run each brand’s Unit Watch programs. The experience gave me a deeper appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and resources it takes to build and sustain a leading watch company. I realize how unique it is to be granted access to these closed-off facilities and this level of openness is not something I take for granted. A Geography Lesson Geneva, Switzerland. Switzerland’s watchmaking industry is intriguing in that it spreads across the relatively small country’s varied geography and its many cultural boundaries. While many of the watch industry’s corporate headquarters are located in Geneva, Switzerland's second-most populous city, the majority of actual production including movements takes place in the Jura mountains spanning the country’s northwestern border. Traditionally, watchmakers expanded to this area to take advantage of an agricultural workforce that was dormant during the winter months, creating the “farmer watchmaker” heritage that many brands tout today. Map of Switzerland’s watchmaking centers. (Credit: Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry) Swiss watchmaking also spans the country’s language barriers. Rolex/Tudor, which is headquartered in Geneva, is staffed primarily by French-speaking Swiss or French workers traveling across the border, but as you head north toward Biel/Bienne, Omega’s headquarters, language and culture shift to a blend of French and German influence. Breitling is also a brand of two cultures, with Swiss-German origins, a headquarters in German-speaking Grenchen, and a production facility in French-speaking La Chaux-de-Fonds. In contrast, IWC is located in Schaffhausen, near Zürich and just across the border from Germany, conducting nearly all of its business in German. Form Follows Function - Purpose-Built Tools Ander Ugarte (left) and Christian Koop are the head designers for Tudor and IWC, respectively. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting with Christian Koop and Ander Ugarte, the heads of design of IWC and Tudor, respectively.  Intensely passionate and masters of their craft, each walked us through the process and attention to detail involved in designing a modern watch for brands steeped in heritage and tradition.  The DNA of iconic watches like the IWC Mark series and Tudor dive watches can be traced back to the divers and soldiers who wore them over half a century ago. While today’s watches trend to luxury items vs real tools, a common phrase I heard was “form follows function.” The watches are still designed with the end user in mind, just as they were a century ago. Automation vs. Hand-Crafted Modern watchmaking is a fascinating blend of cutting-edge technology and centuries-old hand craftsmanship. The two most surprising aspects of visiting the manufacturing facilities of Breitling, Omega, and IWC were the number of robots/automated steps in contrast with the number of steps still requiring human touch. The manufacturing facilities are reliant on technicians and watchmakers from the rural areas of Switzerland, who still work farmers' hours, just as they did centuries ago.  Breitling watch technician. Each morning, hundreds of watchmakers and technicians arrive at the facilities, don sterile antistatic white coats and clean Crocs or Birkenstocks, and spend hours tightening tiny screws to spec or attaching dials to movements. It is a painstaking process and a truly remarkable juxtaposition of futuristic cutting-edge technology and traditional watchmaking. Trying my hand at watchmaking at IWC Schaffhausen. The result is a watch containing hundreds of components, all working in sync to tell you the time. The watches are then shipped around the world through complex dealer networks and intermediaries for you to purchase. Seeing this process firsthand is a remarkable experience and gives me a greater appreciation for the technical and logistical prowess required in Swiss watchmaking. Military Unit Watch Programs - Omega, Tudor, IWC, & Breitling A “Unit Watch” is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization. Customizations can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. When it comes to Swiss watches, Tudor, Omega, and IWC are the modern leaders in the space and we have profiled each program in past articles.  An Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” produced for the US Navy SEALs. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A cynical analysis of these programs would conclude they are sophisticated marketing initiatives, meant to garner publicity through leaks on social media. While I would argue they accomplish this goal in certain instances, the reality is the brands are largely hesitant to publicly acknowledge the partnerships. Swiss brands have spent decades carefully curating a specific narrative to position themselves as aspirational luxury goods. “Tudors of Espionage,” “Sketchy dudes wear Breitling”, and an iconic image of Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a Secret Service agent after an assassination attempt run counter to these carefully crafted narratives.  Diplomatic Security Tudor Black Bay 58. Further, in contrast to smaller brands like Bremont which garner significant revenue from military programs, for the large Swiss houses, it is costly to divert resources to customizing a dial or caseback for a relatively small batch of custom watches, which are also often sold at a discount. In short, these programs likely aren't big money makers for brands that measure watch sales in the hundreds of thousands of units. IWC Unit Watch for AH-64 pilots. So why do large luxury watch brands bother with Unit Watches? As far as I can tell, these programs are passion projects for individuals within each company and they are somewhat controversial for some brands. I have spent significant time with the individuals in charge of the unit watch programs and they are fiercely passionate about them. They truly believe that they are serving a greater calling by producing meaningful tools and heirlooms for our community. Not surprisingly, these individuals also appreciate what we are doing at Watches of Espionage. Watch Brands Are Businesses This one is so obvious that it shouldn't have to be said, but it's a simple fact that many watch “enthusiasts” often forget. The purpose of a watch company is not to make watches, it's to make money. Many of the individuals who work at the major brands are suits, marketing professionals, and technicians who could work for any number of companies in the luxury goods space. While some of them are passionate about watches, the majority of them likely do not consume watch content on their personal time and are not “watch nerds.” Swatch Group Headquarters, left is Omega building. (Photo CreditL Stefan Wermuth/Bloomberg) To be clear, while I enjoy making fun of suits as much as the next guy, this is actually a good thing. If you love watches like I do, then you should want watch brands to succeed… at making money. Headwinds for the watch industry are at an all-time high with Apple Watch sales surpassing the entire Swiss watch industry. It’s not a foregone conclusion that the most iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet will be around in 2074. For the most part, modern watches are luxury goods, meaning they are unnecessary. If they are not profitable, they will disappear. Watch nerds often shed crocodile tears on internet forums complaining about why brand X doesn't produce a specific watch or “listen to the community,” but the reality is brands generally make decisions based on mass market appeal. It may be a tough pill to swallow, but many brands do not care about enthusiasts, and from a bottom-line perspective, they shouldn’t. Ownership Matters As consumers, we often think of brands as discrete monoliths, independent entities that make design and product decisions in a vacuum. However, industry consolidation has led to four conglomerates owning the majority of the Swiss watch industry; Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the parent organization for Rolex and Tudor. Somewhat dated graphic showing ownership in the watch industry (Image Credit: Tony Traina, Rescapement) While in theory, the brands are independent or semi-independent entities, the reality is that Omega's decisions could impact the overall standing and profitability of Swatch Group as a whole, and IWC is just one node of the broader Richemont family. While Tudor often paints itself as an independent entity, when I visited Tudor HQS in Geneva, it was inside Rolex. It’s naive to think that there is no coordination between the companies. Breitling was purchased from the Schneider family by a private equity company in 2017 and whether we like it or not, the overall decisions of the brand are impacted by this ownership structure. (Photo Credit: Rolex) Conglomerates are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they offer access to capital and resources, Richemont and Swatch Group are multibillion-dollar conglomerates with robust infrastructure and supply chains. On the other hand, the conglomerates must ensure each company works towards the same goal, which likely limits independence and creativity at the brand level. Coopetition - Competitors Or Partners? Further, even between competing brands, there is a level of cooperation and sharing. Historically, the legendary Rolex Daytona utilized a chronograph movement supplied by Zenith. Even today, Breitling and Tudor, theoretically arch rivals, share movements, with Breitling utilizing several of Tudor’s base automatic calibers and Tudor receiving a modified version of the B01 chronograph caliber in return, a level of cooperation you aren’t going to see from Apple and Samsung. Tudor's MT5612 is produced by Tudor and voluntarily shared with Breitling, a rival watchmaker. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) While they’re never going to admit it publicly, many of the biggest brands also look to the same suppliers for specific components from jewels to mainsprings to cases and bracelets to construct their “in-house” movements and complete watches. Third-party certifications like COSC and METAS are also utilized by multiple brands looking for a competitive advantage. Despite being fundamentally in competition, I heard several brand leaders admit the overall health of the Swiss watch industry is always in mind. A rising tide lifts all ships. For the industry to succeed holistically, the brands must balance being fiercely competitive with a measured level of cooperation. While it was created in collaboration with Omega and an impartial third party, Tudor has also started instituting METAS testing and certification for some of its watches. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) Tribalism Exists at Every Level Visit any social media watch page and the tribalism—visceral feelings for or against a specific brand—is evident. There are fewer general “watch guys” and more “Rolex” or “Omega” guys. The passion is real and watch nerds think their brand is the best and everyone else sucks. The individuals I met at each brand were fiercely proud of the product they produce, which is cool to see. While they were professional enough to not bad mouth another company outright, it's clear that they truly believed their brand was the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. While this may sound like a negative, this intense conviction to be the best was inspiring. If I buy a Tudor, Omega, Breitling, or IWC, I like knowing that the people making it in the mountains of Switzerland are true believers. Heritage Matters Omega museum, Biel/Bienne, Switzerland When you buy a watch, you are not just buying the components, you are buying a piece of history. One of the most educational aspects of the trip was visiting the museums of Breitling in Zurich, Omega in Biel/Bienne, and IWC in Schaffhausen. For the brands I visited, the history is rich and compelling, and on full display. Breitling Emergency Prototype (Breilting Museum, Zurich Switzerland) Of course, the brands emphasize certain periods and events to carefully curate a narrative, but they are still compelling because it’s authentic.  Omega’s museum had numerous watches worn by astronauts, soldiers, and spies, both real and contrived (Bond, James Bond). IWC was founded by an American soldier, Florentine Ariosto Jones who fought for the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the Civil War and would go on to produce watches for both the Allies and the Germans during World War II, something the museum refreshingly does not gloss over. Breitling’s DNA is rooted in aviation, having provided issued watches during both World Wars decades before becoming a go-to option for those operating on the fringe of sketchiness in the 1990s and 2000s. These museums are open to the public, and I encourage you to visit if you find yourself in Switzerland. The great thing about the country is you can get pretty much anywhere in a few hour train ride. Left is an issued “MN” Tudor MilSub on an original strap, fashioned from parachute webbing. The one on the right was a unit purchase gift for a retiring officer. It was purchased through the MN Rolex-certified watchmaker, Yves Pastre who had a workshop in Toulon. (Photo Credit: Tudor Archives/W.O.E.) Unfortunately, Tudor does not have a museum, but they did provide us access to their extensive archives of military-issued watches and prototypes. This will be the subject of a future Dispatch and the spice level was high. Swiss Watch Marketing is Antiquated I have written in the past about the sophisticated marketing machines behind the Swiss watch industry and this trip confirmed that thesis (Read Here). The major brands, including IWC, Tudor, Omega, and Breitling, have masterfully curated a narrative based on decades-old craftsmanship and history, that makes them leaders in a crowded industry.  In addition to co-opting watch media, they spend millions of dollars a year sponsoring sporting events, recruiting celebrity ambassadors, and producing slick marketing material. Watches and Wonders, an international watch and jewelry industry organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. (Photo Credit: Wikicommons) While I am by no means a marketing expert, I am intimately familiar with human nature. I get the feeling that the brands are reliant on what has worked in the past and not focused on the future, or for that matter the present. Celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, film product placement, and heavily-curated “new releases” are masterclasses in Marketing 101 but the modern consumer is savvy and the media landscape has changed. Legacy watch publications have declined in recent years and have been replaced by a plethora of dispersed voices. There are TikTokers, Youtubers, and podcast hosts who are more influential than Tom Brady and even James Bond. The Swiss watch industry appears slow to adapt to the new landscape and continues to fall back on tried and true methods. Given its age, watchmaking as a whole is steeped in tradition and slow to adapt, especially when it comes to reaching the younger consumers the industry so desperately needs to continue. W.O.E. in Schaffhausen, wearing the same IWC Mark XVII I wore while operational at CIA. Does visiting a facility impact how I will cover them? To date, we have kept the traditional watch industry at arm's length distance, something that frankly much of the industry is okay with. That said, as we have grown our audience we owe it to our community to present thoughtful and unbiased commentary on the watches and brands that are aligned with our ethos. I made some great friends and contacts on this trip and am grateful for the level of access I was granted. It will continue to be a balance between nurturing these relationships and remaining unswayed by the influence of the brands on content. Despite some of the critiques above, my appreciation for the Swiss watch industry in general and these legendary brands in particular could not be higher. I am grateful for those individuals who made this trip possible and thankful for the time and effort of the teams in Switzerland. There are several threads to pull on from this trip and we plan to write additional stories on IWC’s “Top Gun” unit watch program, recent developments in Omega’s unit watch offerings, and the real story behind the Tudor FXD. Thank you all for the support, more to come. -W.O.E. *Note, as with all of our content, this is not sponsored by Tudor, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or any other brand. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands

The Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a look at Christmas movies and tactical watches. This is a fun one and a clear sign that we don’t take ourselves too seriously. Tradition matters at Watches of Espionage. It’s what builds culture and forms the pillars of our community. During the holiday season, tradition means appreciating the cinematic masterpiece that is Die Hard as well as Home Alone and other Christmas classics. As always, watches are the lens through which we view everything from historical events to films. As it happens, some of our favorite holiday films also prominently feature watches that are significant in our community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we stay true to our roots, exploring these iconic holiday films in the way we know best, through the lens of national security and—of course—the watches worn on screen. Enjoy episode nine of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it?  You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary ​​If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB,  Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel,  Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop  

From Waltham To Suunto & Now W.O.E., A Wrist Compass Is Essential Gear For Countless Special Operators While the tools of warfare have developed rapidly over the past sixty years, some gear has remained virtually unchanged, timeless tools that are as effective in 2024 as they were in 1964. Among those essential items are the wristwatch and the wrist compass, both utilized extensively as tools by Intelligence and SpecOps personnel throughout the past six decades. A US Navy SEAL in Vietnam wears a Rolex or Tudor Submariner with a wrist compass. (Photo Credit: Herb Ruth Collection) We often discuss the importance of timekeeping in operational scenarios, but navigation is another equally mission-critical element. The archetypal image of the Vietnam-Era SEAL or a MACV-SOG operator almost always includes not only a watch but also a wrist compass, worn on the same strap. Often overshadowed by the watches they accompany, wrist compasses are useful tools favored by divers and special operators, backed by an intriguing history that stretches from the Vietnam War until today. A prototype of the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass worn with a Tudor Pelagos FXD. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) In this Dispatch, we’ll explore the use of wrist compasses in operational scenarios both then and now, as well as how that rich heritage informed the development process for the W.O.E. Submersible Compass. Wrist Compasses & Special Operations - A Brief History The US Navy Scouts and Raiders, a predecessor to the US Navy SEALS, were formed during World War II. While the concept dates back to ancient China, the compass as we know it today started seeing widespread use as a tool by mariners navigating at sea as early as the 1100s. Military organizations began issuing smaller, more portable compasses en masse to ground-based troops as early as the First World War, a conflict that also saw the widespread adoption of wrist-worn as opposed to pocket watches. Modern SpecOps finds its roots in the Second World War. During this period, the nascent Navy Scouts and Raiders from the United States and British Special Air Service (SAS) and Long Range Desert Group (LRDG) commandos utilized lensatic compasses with built-in sighting mechanisms for wayfinding in challenging terrain. Ralph Bagnold of the LRDG designed the Bagnold Sun Compass during the Second World War. (Photo Credit: National Army Museum) While accurate, these compasses were typically too large for use on a watch strap and lacked water resistance, factors that would become increasingly crucial as maritime special operations grew to include combat diving and other amphibious modalities. By the early 1950s, dive watches including the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner had already become essential parts of any military diving load out. Like watches, the compass would also need to adapt to fit the needs of an evolving military. An astronaut and aquanaut on all three US Navy SEALAB experiments, Malcolm Scott Carpenter famously wore a Rolex Submariner with a wrist compass in diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Underwater compasses had been used by divers for decades by that time but were cumbersome for clandestine maritime operators after leaving the water. In the 1960s, numerous scuba diving brands including Aqualung, Dacor, and Scubapro produced simple oil-filled compasses designed to slide over a watch strap. These diving-specific compasses famously appear in photographs alongside watches like the Rolex Submariner and the Doxa Sub 300/300T during the US Navy’s SEALAB experiments. US Navy SEAL Steve Jewitt, nicknamed “The Walrus”, wearing an issued Tudor 7928 alongside a Waltham wrist compass. (Photo Credit: WalrusTactical) Far from the undersea world, the US Military’s answer was a straightforward wrist compass produced in many cases by Waltham and intended for use alongside a navigator’s issued A-11 or similar wristwatch. Given the sizing norms of watches during the period when many tool watches measured 32 millimeters, the compass came equipped with 16mm canvas and later nylon straps. Designed for use by downed pilots, these compasses, which were initially marked “Waltham” and later “W.C.C.” for Waltham Clock Company, would not see widespread use until the Vietnam War when SEALs brought them into action alongside their issued Tudor 7928s. A Vietnam-Era Seiko and Waltham wrist compasses, all of which were utilized by MACV-SOG. (Photo Credit: W.O.E.) The SEALs were not alone in their adoption of the mil-spec Waltham. Army Special Forces operators assigned to MACV-SOG also selected the brass wrist compass for use alongside their issued Seiko watches. When we interviewed John Stryker Meyer, a legend in the SF community, he said that some of his fellow Recon Company soldiers added a W.C.C. compass to the strap, but he preferred the traditional compass around his neck. For special operations forces, the need for a more portable compass stemmed from the level of autonomy and individual responsibility entrusted to each operator. These Waltham compasses, which are still relatively available through surplus or militaria channels, are becoming increasingly collectible due to their SpecOps associations. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Cammenga wrist compass alongside a Seiko 6309. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) After Vietnam, many continued to wear their Waltham compasses into the Cold War, with SEALs including our friend Dave Hall sometimes opting for older W.C.C. compasses over more modern options out of reverence for his SEAL mentors. Issued escape and evasion kits still included the Waltham in many cases, but some frogmen of the 1980s opted for diving-specific compasses from brands like Silva and Tekna. The Cammenga J582 (left) and Suunto M-9 (right) are among the most popular wrist compasses among special operators today. Over time, several brands stepped up to produce simpler and cheaper compasses which evolved along with the world of watchmaking. Starting in the 1990s, the NSN or Nato Stock Number formerly held by Waltham was taken over by Stocker & Yale with a modernized version of the W.C.C. with tritium gas tube illumination housed within an aluminum case. In 2004, Cammenga, already a maker of many issued compasses, purchased the rights and continues to manufacture the mil-spec wrist compass, now called the J582, for the US Military. While it is an effective tool, the Cammenga is not designed for extended diving or swimming operations. A USAF Pararescueman wears a G-Shock DW6900 alongside a Suunto Clipper compass in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: Michael Yon) A more modern option that has also been issued to and privately purchased by members of the US Military is the Suunto M-9, though it is typically worn alone on the opposite wrist as opposed to with a watch. For wear on a watch strap, Suunto’s Clipper compass and a similar design from Marathon are also common options for military personnel. All offer significant utility for special operators, but most lack the refinement to go toe to toe with watches from brands like Rolex, Omega, Tudor, and Seiko. The W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass A core principle of everything we do at W.O.E. is honoring our heritage. Inspired by the link between tool watches utilized by SpecOps and capable wrist compasses, we set out to design a modern compass measuring that also calls back to the W.C.C. wrist compasses historically used by SpecOps. The result of over two years of prototyping and extensive testing by divers and SpecOps personnel, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that celebrates the heritage of our community. With a custom dial featuring C3 Super-LumiNova, a grade two titanium case, individual water resistance testing to 100 meters, and slim 24.5mm wide by 12mm thick dimensions, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that also looks the part alongside tool watches from Seiko, Rolex, Omega, and Tudor. Click HERE to learn more about the W.O.E. compass. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch  

A Watch & Strap Commemorating The 100th Training Class For France’s Elite Maritime SpecOps Unit Though military-issued timepieces and privately-purchased watches worn during military or government service are significant to our community, the concept of a customized “Unit Watch” presents one of the single best examples of how watches are ingrained in the culture of the military, SpecOps, and the world of intelligence. There are other important players in the modern unit watch landscape, but Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) will always occupy a special place in our hearts. From the Shield’s historic connections to US Navy SEALs in the Vietnam War to the modern US Secret Service Counter Assault Team and multiple Tier One SpecOps units, Tudor’s roots within our community run as deep as any. Among Tudor’s earliest forays into military service is the brand’s relationship with the Marine Nationale or French Navy, a partnership born in the 1950s that laid the groundwork for the modern Pelagos FXD in 2021. In this Dispatch, our friend Ross Povey, a dedicated Tudor expert and the founder of Tudor Collector, shares the intriguing story of the second modern Tudor commissioned for the French Navy’s elite maritime commandos. By Ross Povey The world of military timepieces is enriched by stories of watches that need to have durability, precision, and often distinctive design elements. Whether at the direction of the specific defence department or the requirements of the personnel using them, these watches often have unique attributes that set them apart from civilian examples. And it’s this aspect that drives collectors to acquire such timepieces and chase examples that have been developed and used by the military. Tudor’s relationship with the Commando Hubert dates back to the 1950s, with this image of a Commando Hubert operator and their Tudor Sub coming from 1977. Tudor has a track record of working closely with military forces around the world and no other example is more widely recognised than its partnership with the French National Navy, the Marine Nationale, or MN as it is known. The genesis of the Pelagos FXD lies within this partnership and it is a relationship that dates back to the 1950s. Aside from the publicly available Pelagos FXD and the new FXD GMT MN editions, there has recently been another special “unit watch” commissioned by Commando Hubert to commemorate the 100th Combat Swimmer Course that concluded this summer. The Tudor Black Bay 54 was designed to commemorate the 100th combat diver’s course for the Commando Hubert. The watch is a custom Black Bay 54 with “200m” text on the dial and it marks another significant chapter in this storied history. This special edition watch honours the significant milestone of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course hosted and led by the French diving school, the course is a prerequisite for an operator to be assigned to Commando Hubert. This watch also gave birth to a unique accessory; a unique version of the W.O.E.-ZA Commando Strap crafted from vintage parachute material. 100th Combat Swimmer Course The graduation ceremony following the 100th Combat Swimmer Course. (Photo Credit: Marine Nationale) The Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) is a rigorous 27-week training regimen that prepares France's elite naval commandos for complex operations across various environments. Conducted under the supervision of a lieutenant and ten petty officer instructors, the CNC encompasses three intensive phases, focusing on oxygen diving, preparation for combat swimmer attacks, and specialized combat swimmer skills. The program challenges candidates with deep-sea navigation, underwater demolition, and high-risk parachuting, concluding with a demanding set of exams to test their mastery of these complex disciplines. Only 5 to 10% of those who start the CNC earn the combat swimmer certificate, a testament to the course's difficulty and the high standards expected of participants. This badge of honour signifies more than just successful completion; it denotes a profound journey of personal and professional growth, marking its bearers as exceptional warriors capable of adapting to and controlling aquatic, terrestrial, and aerial environments. This elite training ensures that graduates are not only skilled in advanced military techniques but also equipped to lead and excel in high-stakes missions worldwide. The Black Bay 54 Unit Watch The standard production Black Bay 54 calls back to Tudor’s earliest dive watches. Released in 2023, Tudor revisited its origins with the Black Bay 54, a homage to the brand's first Submariner from 1954. The watch features a historically accurate bezel insert and a tweak to the hands, presenting a watch that's true to its dive watch heritage. With a number of striking similarities to the Submariner reference 7922 with a 37mm no-crown-guard case and water resistance up to 100 meters, the Black Bay 54 maintains these classic proportions while incorporating the modern Tudor manufacture movement, calibre MT5400, and enhancing water resistance to 200 meters. Unlike the standard Tudor models available through official retailers, the Black Bay 54 designed for Commando Hubert includes unique elements that I can share here exclusively. The watch dial, uncluttered by the usual depth ratings and certifications, features a streamlined aesthetic with just a bold red "200m" marking, omitting the typical chronometer certification texts for a no-nonsense military vibe. Furthermore, the dial is marked with "CNC xxx-100" at the bottom, signifying "Cours des Nageurs de Combat" and linking each watch to one of the 100 combat divers’ courses, creating a direct line to the historical courses taught by Commando Hubert. The Heritage Edition Commando Strap (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) To accompany the special edition Black Bay 54, Commando Hubert wanted a special strap, which led to the collaboration with my friends at Watches of Espionage and Zulu Alpha Straps. As I’ve written about before, the straps delivered to accompany the commemorative Black Bay 54 were made from a new-old-stock roll of original parachute webbing. This strap not only provides a robust and practical fit for diving and military operations but also carries the essence of history in its fibres. To complete the set, each watch and strap came in a miniature FROGS (Full Range Oxygen Gas System) as a watch box. The collaboration began when Commando Hubert divers expressed the need for a durable strap that resonated with the heritage of Marine Nationale divers. These elite divers historically crafted makeshift straps from parachute webbing for their Tudor MilSubs. The result of extensive prototyping and feedback from the divers led to the creation of two versions of the Commando Strap: a regular production version made from bespoke elastic webbing and the Heritage edition made from vintage material. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) Each strap is fitted with a metal buckle system that has been in use by the Marine Nationale since the 1950s. Used for a number of applications, it was used by Commando Hubert for diving weight belts. The tension makes it very hard to release the system by mistake, but if one decides to ditch some weight in order to surface, it can be done one-handed in a “finger snap”. A Tribute to the Legacy The completion of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) by Commando Hubert is not only a milestone for the French Navy but also a celebration of endurance, skill, and the spirit of the elite naval commandos. To commemorate this landmark, we have the special Black Bay 54 that was presented on Heritage Commando Strap, made from vintage parachute webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) It’s unclear whether the French operators will utilize the special edition Black Bay 54 operationally or view them as commemorative timepieces honouring the unit’s history, but we do know the Commando Hubert wear and use their special two-line FXD models in diving contexts, even forgoing the use of a diving computer in many combat swimming scenarios. In any case, the addition of the 100th CNC Black Bay 54 into the annals of Tudor’s already extensive history with maritime special operations is further evidence of the strong link between timepieces and special operations. As W.O.E. often says, the Use Your Tools ethos is alive and well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap About The Author: Ross Povey, the founder of TudorCollector.com is regarded as the world’s leading expert on vintage Tudor watches. Although an expert on Rolex and Tudor watches primarily, Ross’s work covers the entire field of horology. He writes for and has contributed to some of the most influential publications, including Revolution, The Telegraph, GQ, Forbes, The Rake, Wristcheck, Watch Pro, Watchonista, Hodinkee, QP and is the co-author of the book Daytona Perpetual, a celebration of the automatic Rolex Daytona released through Pucci Papaleo Editore. Ross is Communications Director for Monaco Legend Group auction house and is also an international speaker, regularly hosting watch events in the UK and globally.

Straps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles on the Dispatch every week, the addition of our first full-time team member (intern), Benjamin Lowry, an Instagram following 185k strong, the launch of our YouTube Channel, and an ever-growing collection of tools on our site. Before we do anything else, thank you all for your continued support. The end of the year also means it’s time for the holidays, and we admit that watch enthusiasts and other gear-oriented people are notoriously hard to shop for. With that in mind, we assembled some of our top picks from the W.O.E store. Whether you’re shopping for yourself or trying to find exactly the right gift for the watch nerd in your life, this list includes a wide range of price ranges representing our most popular categories. *We will be closing up shop on December 14th this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* Straps: One of the single best gift ideas for a watch enthusiast is a strap, a relatively inexpensive way to give a watch a new look. For a comprehensive look at the entire W.O.E. strap collection, click HERE, but here are some of our recommendations for this holiday season. NEW - W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap - $85 More than a year in development, the new W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap is produced to our specifications from FKM or fluoroelastomer, the highest quality rubber material on the market, and paired with a custom engraved 316L stainless steel W.O.E. buckle. 007 Bond Nylon Strap - Five Eye - $35 In honor of filmmaking’s most legendary secret agent, the 007 versions of our Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap provide three distinct patterns recognizable to Bond fans paired with our custom matte weave nylon construction, custom 316L stainless steel “WOE” buckle, a reinforced stitched tip, and beveled keepers. Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 to $49 Available with either stainless steel or new PVD black hardware, the Glomar Explorer Hook And Loop Watch Strap is a premium execution of the classic hook and loop nylon straps favored by divers for decades. Gear: In addition to straps, we offer a wide variety of EDC or everyday carry tools not intended for watches. These are great options fit for virtually anyone who appreciates quality, utility, and W.O.E. The Mosebey Blade - $358 Inspired by Bill “Bwana” Mosebey, a legendary Africa Division Case Officer, The Mosebey Blade is a fully customized all-purpose blade made in the USA from premium domestic materials. Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover - $145 Produced by hand by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota, the Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover is made from full-grain leather and U.S. government spec canvas and intended to fit the (included) Moleskine Classic Softer Cover Notebook. W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat - $35 We didn’t reinvent the wheel here, they are hats. That said, this is the ultimate “if you know, you know,” and if someone recognizes you wearing the W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat, you are sure to have a new friend. The Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask - $89 For the adult beverage connoisseurs in the room, the Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask is made of food-grade stainless steel coated with copper and wrapped with American-tanned English Tan Dublin leather from The Horween Tannery in Chicago. W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack Hook & Loop - $25 One of our best options if you’re unsure where else to look, our hook and loop-backed W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack includes three unique designs referencing key aspects of our “Use Your Tools” ethos. Watch Storage: Whether you’re traveling internationally or just want a great way to store your collection of tool watches, our watch storage options are custom-made to suit the high standards of our community. The Diplomat 4 Watch Roll - $165 Produced in the United States, the Diplomat 4 Watch Roll safely holds four watches while being hand-sewn in the USA with American-made waxed ripstop canvas and leather. Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin - $138 Our first custom tool and still one of our favorites, the Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin set is produced in the United States by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota from US-tanned SB Foote leather and repurposed M81 camouflage material. 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case - $78 If security and safety from the elements are your primary concerns, the 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case is our best option, offering water resistance as well as custom-cut interior foam to safeguard your collection. W.O.E. X-Pac Strap Pouch - $42 Manufactured by hand in the United States from X-Pac, a waterproof three-layer material with a rugged camouflage 500D Cordura face fabric, the X-Pac Strap Pouch is an excellent option for straps, tools, or chargers. Home & Office: Whether you’re deeply into watches or not, our home and office collection provides excellent daily tools everyone can use to stay organized while demonstrating membership in our community. EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener - $115 For keys, watch accessories, or other small items, our EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener set is made from full grain leather and Mil-Spec canvas while coming with a custom metal bottle opener complete with the W.O.E. Spearhead insignia. W.O.E. Use Your Tools Coffee Mug - $35 If there’s one thing watch nerds and the military can agree on, it might be the importance of coffee. Our Use Your Tools Coffee Mug is handmade in the USA and complete with our Spearhead logo. W.O.E. Gift Card - $50 to $300 If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Tactical Watches & Christmas Films - Die Hard, Lethal Weapon & Home Alone

Whether watch nerds like it or not, the smartwatch is here to stay. Apple sells more Apple Watches in a quarter than the entire Swiss watch industry does in a year. Smartwatches like the Apple Watch and many Garmin models offer significant lifestyle benefits including fitness tracking, communication, navigation, and sleep monitoring. To the average person, being connected and having all of this data at all times is convenient. However, for CIA Officers and special operators who rely on anonymity to securely conduct clandestine operations, these networked devices are a counterintelligence vulnerability and a potential opportunity for exploitation by bad actors. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we share the counterintelligence risks of wearing Apple Watches and other smartwatches, using real-world examples to show how these connected devices can have deadly consequences. Enjoy episode eight of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

Trump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry Welcome back to the Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap and discussion of the previous month’s watch-related news and any other current events pertaining to our community. Here in the United States, Thanksgiving has come and gone and November is officially at an end. If it hasn’t already, Mariah Carey’s seminal work, "All I Want For Christmas Is You" will soon be bombarding your ears to harden your resolve ahead of another bustling yuletide season. But for now, let’s keep our sight picture squarely on watches and espionage. November offered a plethora of watch-related happenings from the worlds of politics, national security, and crime. In case you missed it, the US presidential election unveiled a new (old) president, with at least one of his potential appointments demonstrating solid watch taste likely related to his intriguing background. In addition, we have an updated Omega Seamaster, a legendary Japanese crime syndicate getting in on the watch theft trend, politicians surrendering watches, and some impressive Rolex stats. Trump’s Former SpecOps Pick For National Security Advisor Wears A Rolex GMT-Master II Rep. Mike Waltz is, like many members of US Army Special Forces, a Rolex guy. A few weeks back, President-elect Donald Trump asked Mike Waltz to serve as his national security advisor (NSA). We’re not here to comment on the political ramifications of Waltz serving in the role, but the Republican Representative from Florida does have quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.). Embodying the adage that all a Special Forces man needs are “a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex”, Waltz has been spotted on several occasions wearing a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710 also known as the “Batman”. W.O.E. has been known to call the Rolex GMT-Master the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch. With Waltz and SF legend Billy Waugh serving as excellent anecdotal evidence, the model family has strong roots in Special Forces as well. (Photo Credit: Green Beret Foundation) In another photo from the 80th anniversary of D-Day in Normandy, France where Waltz jumped from a WWII-Era C-47, he is seen wearing an older Rolex GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, potentially a reference 16710, on a nylon pull-through strap, clear indication Waltz is at least a little bit of a watch guy. A New Omega Seamaster Diver 300 Bares A Striking Resemblance To Unit Watches (Photo Credit: Omega) Leaked during the Olympics on the wrist of wannabe spy Daniel Craig, Omega finally officially unveiled its revamped Seamaster Diver 300. It’s not a meteoric change compared to the preexisting model, moving to a non-date format, transitioning from ceramic to aluminum for the dial and insert, and adding a mesh bracelet option. While we don’t typically cover new releases, there is an uncanny resemblance between the updated Seamaster Diver 300 and recent examples from Omega’s modern unit watch program that has outfitted the US Navy SEALs, US Secret Service, and the Danish Frogman Corps, to name a few. The US Secret Service Omega Seamaster unit watch. It would be a stretch to say the new watch was developed as an answer to the hype surrounding Omega’s unit watch program after the US Secret Service variant was spotted on the wrist of an agent during the attempted assassination of President-elect Donald Trump, but in any case, we’re happy to see one of the most popular luxury dive watches move in a more utilitarian direction better suited to the Use Your Tools lifestyle. Yakuza Suspected In Coordinated Luxury Theft Of 172 Rolex Watches An alleged Yakuza member wearing a Rolex Submariner “Bluesy”. (Photo Credit: Sabukaru) Recently in Osaka, Japan, a delivery van loaded with over 170 new Rolex watches was stolen while its driver left the vehicle unattended and unlocked for “around three minutes”. Three individuals have since been arrested in connection to the theft, with one having strong ties to the Yakuza, a legendary organized crime syndicate with roots dating back 300 years. As you’d imagine, the van was later dumped after being emptied of its horological contents, which had an estimated value of $1.9M. If your AD has been dodging you, now might be a great time to check Chrono24’s Japanese Rolex listings… I’m just saying. Also in Osaka, a store clerk and police detained a would-be robber after he attempted to flee with four luxury watches. While much of the conversation surrounding watch theft in 2024 revolves around European cities including London and Paris or New York and Los Angeles in the United States, this coordinated robbery demonstrates a growing trend in Japan. In contrast to the strongarm robberies often perpetrated in Europe and the US, watch thefts in Japan are, other than this delivery van robbery, typically characterized by organized smash and grabs of high-profile retail locations. For another example of an organized crime syndicate focused on watches and jewelry, check out our recent Dispatch on the Pink Panthers (HERE). Rudy Giuliani Surrenders 26 Luxury Watches After $148M Lawsuit L Giuliani wearing a Shinola chronograph that appears to have been among his surrendered watches. Former New York City Mayor and Time Magazine Person of the Year Rudy Giuliani has been ordered to surrender 26 luxury watches as well as a 1980 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 formerly owned by movie star Lauren Bacall. This comes after Giuliani’s meteoric $148M loss in a defamation lawsuit filed by two Georgia election workers following the 2020 US presidential election. Giuliani has been the subject of no shortage of financial concerns as of late, and it looks unlikely that he will be able to repay the $148M, hence the surrender of many of his personal effects which also includes a $5M apartment on the Upper East Side. A screen capture from Ted Goodman’s video on X showing some of Guiliani’s surrendered watches. (Photo Credit: X) On November 14th, a spokesperson for Giuliani, Ted Goodman, posted a video on X showing 18 watches and a ring he said were in the process of being turned over to relevant authorities. According to court documents, these watches include Bulova, Shinola, Tiffany & Co, Seiko, Frank Muller, Graham, Corium, Rolex, IWC, Invicta, Breitling, Raymond Weil, and Baume & Mercer.  In the video, Goodman goes on to say, “This is the accumulation of 60 years of hard work. Many of these watches hold great sentimental value.” Whatever Guiliani’s watch collection is worth, it’s a small drop in a $148M bucket. The Total Value Of The World’s Rolex Submariners Surpasses Many Nations Analysis of data released in the recent Rolex Submariner book provided surprising conclusions. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Based on analysis of the production data for Rolex Submariners released in the Crown’s recent book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep, the combined value of all of the nearly four million Submariner and Sea-Dweller models produced over the years adds up to a weighty $50B. It’s an astonishing figure, but the real revelations stem from contextual analysis of what a number like that means. We would have guessed the total value of Rolex’s Subs would have been a lot, but still… $50B is, for example, greater than the GDP or gross domestic product of countries like Jordan, Tunisia, Bahrain, El Salvador, Cambodia, and Iceland (according to 2023 World Bank Data). Of course, you can’t compile all of the world’s Submariners into an unholy Scrooge McDuck-style pool of gold doubloons, but the world-beating figure does help to illustrate the size of the global financial impact commanded by Rolex SA over the decades, which also turned over no less than $10B in 2023. We’re not here for Ernst Blofeld comparisons, but what kind of bargaining power and political influence does that offer to a brand that is already also among the most recognized on Earth? There’s a reason they call it “The Crown”, and it ain’t just the logo. Final Thoughts As we brace ourselves for the holiday season, we sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed your monthly helping of watch industry news and commentary. From a former Special Forces guy being picked to work in the White House with a Rolex Batman on the wrist to Rudy Giuliani’s forfeited watch collection to a Yakuza luxury watch heist, and an astonishing Rolex statistic, the November gales of watch industry content blew fast and strong. If you appreciate this format or have other stories you’d like to see covered in next month’s SITREP, please do not hesitate to let us know in the comments. If something about our coverage offended or upset you, we’re confident you’ll have no trouble expressing your concerns as well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - October 2024  

A Balkan-Based Criminal Syndicate Leverages Intelligence Tradecraft To Steal Luxury Watches & Diamonds In Bond-Style Heists. Luxury jewel crime occurs on a spectrum and Ocean’s Eleven-style heists are generally figments of Hollywood screenwriters’ imaginations. However, one notable example exists: the “Pink Panthers,” a network of Balkan-based jewel thieves that operated with near impunity in the early 2000s, stealing an estimated $500M in diamonds, jewels, and luxury watches. The attacks spanned the globe including traditionally “safe” cities like Tokyo, Dubai, and Geneva. Pink Panthers during a heist at Wafi Mall in Dubai. The heist lasted minutes and the cars were later abandoned and burned to destroy DNA and other clues. The syndicate, reportedly founded by paramilitary veterans of the Yugoslav War, leverages tradecraft and precision that would rival a first-rate intelligence service, with swagger to match.  In 2007, a Pink Panther cell drove two Audi S8s through the glass doors of the Wafi Mall in Dubai, down the marble walkways, and directly to a jewelry store. They disappeared minutes later. After a 2005 heist in St. Tropez, the team boarded an awaiting speedboat for a quick extraction, destination unknown. In 2013, the group even conducted a prison break in Switzerland by ramming the gate with a stolen van and placing ladders over the barbed wire, freeing a Bosnian member of the gang. These highly coordinated heists last only minutes and within hours the perpetrators are in another country.  Many members of the Pink Panthers allegedly served during the Yugoslav War. Today, we explore the structure, creativity, tradecraft, and tactics that made the Pink Panther syndicate the most successful and bold international criminal organization in recent history, a legacy that continues today. What's In A Name? - The Pink Panthers Graff Diamonds in London was one of the Pink Panthers’ first high-profile targets in 2003. (Photo Credit: Graff) The “Pink Panthers” nom de guerre was coined by INTERPOL (The International Criminal Police Organization) after a brazen heist of Graff Diamonds in London in 2003 in which one of the assailants disguised as a VIP client, Milan Jovetic, escaped in an awaiting Ferrari. After his arrest in France, a blue diamond worth over $500 thousand was found in a face cream jar belonging to his girlfriend, a tactic used in a 1960s-era Pink Panther film starring Peter Sellers. You can’t make this stuff up. A luxury Ferrari used for an escape in the 2003 Graff Diamonds heist in London. Gentleman Thieves - Covert Influence The group's intelligence tradecraft extends to the media. The group conducts an effective influence campaign, an effort to develop a Robin Hood-like mystique as “gentleman thieves.” Several members have even given interviews and media appearances. Despite the speed and violence of action, most heists last mere minutes, the group is quick to note that it has only caused one death over the years despite the numerous operations. A self-described founding member of the group, Rajko Causevic, has remarked: “We were never violent. I am a thief, but a gentleman. We always made clear plans.” There are some indications the Balkans-based group bought their safety in Montenegro and Serbia under an implicit agreement they would invest the ill-gotten profits back into the economy, making them heroes at home. Items stolen from the luxury boutique of the Harry Winston in Paris. Watches are one of the many items targeted by the Pink Panthers. Born Out Of The Yugoslav Wars - Paramilitary Training According to most accounts, the group was born out of the Yugoslav Wars, a series of conflicts in the Balkans after the disintegration of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. One known prominent leader, believed by some to be the founder, Dragan Mikić, reportedly had military training and experience. With an estimated 500 to 800 members of varying levels of involvement, many are believed to be ex-Yugoslav soldiers, which explains the military-like precision and sophisticated tactics. Members are recruited to teams for specific operations based on their skill set and profile. Pink Panthers Tradecraft The Pink Panthers boast an impressive array of capabilities that rival any premier intelligence agency, including the Central Intelligence Agency. The group has a deep bench of diverse individuals to recruit from for specific operations, including document forgers, safe crackers, and members with advanced weapons and driving training. Unlike the mafia or a cartel, the structure is decentralized with no clear leader or organizational chart, complicating decades-long efforts by international law enforcement organizations to dismantle the group. Credit: Stratfor 2014 Heist Methodology - The Criminal Planning Cycle: Utilizing a framework developed by Stratfor, the “Criminal Planning Cycle” helps us dissect the tradecraft, methods, and tactics used by the Pink Panthers. $37M in jewels and watches were stolen from Harry Winston in Paris, France in 2007. (Photo Credit: Vanity Fair) Target Selection: Primarily focused on Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, the Pink Panthers chose targets with geographic and venue-type diversity.  A jewelry store in the heart of Mayfair, a museum in Zurich, or a boutique in Tokyo nothing is off the table.  When asked why he robbed banks, American bank robber Willie Sutton dryly remarked, “Because that's where the money is.” This ethos is what drove the Pink Panthers to steal luxury timepieces including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. That said, Pink Panthers are loot agnostic, focusing primarily on diamonds and other classic jewelry due to the value-to-weight ratio but also expanding into artwork. In 2008, the Pink Panthers reportedly robbed a Zürich museum, taking several paintings including Monet, Degas, and Vincent van Gogh, with an estimated value of $160M. Surveillance photos captured by law enforcement of Pink Panthers conducting pre-attack surveillance, including of a Rolex Authorized Dealer. (Photo Credit: 60 Minutes) Planning & Surveillance: The Pink Panthers devote significant resources to pre-attack planning and surveillance which can take months. Teams are typically composed of three to five individuals with complementary specialties and backgrounds, and most include at least one woman. With more than adequate funding, the Panthers dress the part, acquire “safe houses”, and steal luxury cars. Women members are often used to case the location, returning with recorded footage and hand-drawn sketches of the layout of the target. Targets are assessed for security but also with escape in mind.  Creativity is encouraged, with escapes using everything from stolen luxury cars to boats to push bikes in Japan. Keenly aware of the investigative capabilities of law enforcement, the group uses cash for expenses and even reportedly false passports and license plates, demonstrating an impressive level of sophistication for the criminal element. The Pink Panthers use a mixture of profiles for both casing and the crime itself. Individuals arrested after Dubai mall heist. Deployment: To gain entry to the target facility, the teams use a mixture of disguise, creativity, and brute force. In May 2003, two members entered the Graff Diamonds store in New Bond Street, London, posing as wealthy customers dressed in suits and wigs to disguise their facial features. The Panthers will often use women and light disguises to make them seem less alarming. The Panthers have also cut through walls of neighboring stores to access the facilities during off hours. On the morning of 6 October 2007, a team of four was already waiting inside the Harry Winston store when the Paris boutique opened. They were disguised as construction workers, who had reportedly been working on the facility for weeks prior to the heist which resulted in $37M in luxury jewels and watches. Carlton Hotel, Cannes France heist, July 2013. A necklace worn by model Cara Delevingne days prior was included in the stolen goods, with an estimated value of over $88 million. Crime: Borrowing methodology from SpecOps, speed, surprise, and violence of action are the trademarks of a Pink Panther heist. At the right moment, a team member draws a concealed pistol and hammer, quickly directing the staff onto the ground and often using flex ties to restrain them. The perpetrator then proceeds to smash the glass cases and grab whatever is readily available. Another member remains at the front of the store to prop open the door and look out for a law enforcement response. Despite the brute force technique, store staff are rarely harmed, demonstrating a certain level of discipline and limiting lengthy sentencing when caught and arrested. An Alleged Pink Panther heist in Milan, Italy. Sales associates are flex-tied on the floor, a common tactic used by SOF and law enforcement. Escape: According to interviews with investigators and members of the group, the creativity and thought placed on escape and evasion is one facet of the heist that sets the Panthers apart from other networks. The Panthers reportedly select targets based on the ease of escape, exploiting access to thoroughfares and narrow alleyways to negate law enforcement pursuit.  The teams often hand off the stolen goods to an awaiting member on a motorbike. The team then disperses using Vespa scooters, simple pedal bikes, luxury sports cars, and even a Hollywood-style speed boat escape from a coastal town in France. According to interviews, the goal is to depart the country within two hours. Diamond Quarter Antwerp, Belgium. (Photo Credit: Wiki Commons) Exploitation & Money Laundering: According to several accounts, the stolen items are brought back to the Balkans and then slowly couriered back into Europe to be sold on the black market. The Diamond District in Antwerp, Belgium, is the most common destination due to the proximity and large volume of diamonds passing through the city, at times up to 80% of all diamonds in the world.  According to an interview with one of the black market dealers in the documentary Smash & Grab, the Panthers net 20-30% of the value of the goods. For additional information, see our previous Dispatch article, Watches as Tools of Money Laundering and Illicit Finance. Cash, diamonds, and watches seized from the Pink Panthers. Law Enforcement Efforts: The advanced tradecraft has baffled law enforcement agencies for decades and complicated efforts to prosecute the group. While several high-profile arrests have occurred, the structure of the Pink Panthers as a “network of teams” with no clear hierarchy makes dismantling the network difficult. Unlike the mafia or a cartel, there is no known boss or organizational chart, making it difficult to “cut off the head of the snake.” In fact, many participants may not even know they are working for the Pink Panthers but are instead loosely affiliated. When arrested, the group members operate under a code of silence or loyalty to the oath of Omertà. Vladimir Lekic was arrested and sentenced to eight years for his participation in a 2003 robbery in Frankfurt, Germany of $2.5M in watches and jewelry. The Future Of The Pink Panthers Large-scale heists attributed to the Pink Panthers have declined over the previous decade, with over 50 high-profile arrests throughout Europe and the Middle East. To gain entry to the European Union, Montenegro and other Balkan countries have reportedly cracked down on the Pink Panthers and increased cooperation with INTERPOL and other European law enforcement agencies. But the group has not disappeared and periodic heists continue, although some appear to be copycat-style attacks.  While it is tempting to romanticize the Pink Panthers and give in to the narrative that they are robbing from the rich to give to the poor, the reality is international organized crime is a dirty business and it is impossible to separate jewelry heists from murder and narcotics and sex trafficking. That said, we believe it is important to spend time studying the darker sides of horology and the role timepieces and other jewelry play in illicit markets.   Whether it’s George Clooney and Matt Damon in Ocean’s Eleven, Marky Mark and Charlize in The Italian Job, or the overly-complicated exploits of Arsène Lupin, every grown man fantasizes at one time or another about being an international criminal mastermind, a “gentleman thief” with equal parts panache and cunning. For the Pink Panthers, these Hollywood-style heists are a reality but come at a cost, forcing members to live in the shadows as fugitives, ever watchful of the prying eyes of international law enforcement.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches, Part I This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

We Ask For AI’s Take On W.O.E. & The Results Are Surprisingly Accurate Whether we like it or not, artificial intelligence or AI is influencing and shaping the world around us. Utilized in intelligence collection and analysis, cyber security, customer service, marketing, and more, AI is increasingly becoming an aspect of everyday life, a potentially scary concept depending on the level of optimism in your worldview. It’s easy to think a niche topic area like W.O.E. is beyond the scope of this Skynet-style analysis, but the fact of the matter is any platform with a significant online presence provides more than enough information for a tool like ChatGPT to analyze, and even imitate. But how well can ChatGPT understand what W.O.E. is really all about? AI-generated image. To obtain a better grasp of modern AI’s capabilities while also having some fun in the process, we asked ChatGPT about “Watches of Espionage” including what we are, some of the tools we have designed for our community, and our YouTube Channel. We also asked for AI-generated images speaking to the nature of Watches of Espionage, some of which are placed throughout this article. The results of our queries were surprisingly accurate, though not perfect. We have well over a hundred long-form editorial articles in the Dispatch, coverage in established media outlets including Hodinkee, GQ, Esquire, and Coffee or Die, a growing YouTube Channel, as well as our website full of products, descriptions, and customer reviews. Collectively, that’s tens of thousands if not millions of data points, more than enough for a surprisingly decent synopsis. AI-generated image. So what’s the lesson here? If ChatGPT can instantaneously spit out a solid report on a niche content platform like W.O.E., how much do you think the infernal machine knows about you? What happens if someone amalgamates your Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn, or in a darker version, your private email inbox and iCloud to learn everything they need to know about you? We’re not conspiracy theorists, but it’s important to consider what personal information you’re putting out there. Hey ChatGPT, What is Watches of Espionage? ChatGPT: Watches of Espionage is a niche platform that explores and documents the intersection of watches and the world of espionage, intelligence, and covert operations. The platform, often found on social media (like Instagram), blogs, and other outlets, delves into the use of watches by spies, intelligence officers, and military personnel, examining how timepieces have been integral to their missions and identities. AI-generated image. Watches have long been a tool for operatives in espionage, as reliable and discreet timekeeping is essential for covert activities. The platform highlights stories of famous spies, historical events, and the specific watches associated with those individuals or operations. These timepieces might have particular tactical features—such as durability, water resistance, anti-magnetic properties, or special timing functions—that are useful for field operations. Some well-known watches frequently covered by Watches of Espionage are: Rolex Submariner: Favored by military divers and intelligence personnel, including famously worn by James Bond (though fictional). Omega Seamaster: Another watch associated with espionage due to its reputation for durability and precision. Seiko Divers: Known for their affordability and reliability, making them a practical choice for operatives in the field. The concept taps into both the practicality of watches in espionage and the allure of the mysterious, clandestine world of spies. What products does Watches of Espionage have? Watches of Espionage offers a unique line of products focused on the theme of espionage and tactical use, crafted for both watch enthusiasts and those with an interest in intelligence history. Their inventory includes: Watch Straps: The core of their offerings, these straps are inspired by military and intelligence themes, like the Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap, available in various colors and designs. The strap’s name is a nod to the "Five Eyes" intelligence alliance, and it’s built for durability with features like a custom stainless steel buckle and reinforced stitching​. Watch Accessories: This includes items like the Explorer Canvas Watch Roll, designed to store multiple watches for secure transport. Hand-sewn in the USA from rugged canvas, it has four compartments and a parachute cord for a secure closure, embodying a practical design for traveling collectors​. EDC (Everyday Carry) Items: Aimed at practical utility, this line features products like the Tactile Turn X W.O.E. Titanium Pen, which is TSA-compliant and comes with a bolt-action mechanism for smooth use. This collaboration with Tactile Turn combines functionality and style, inspired by tools carried by CIA operatives​. Branded Merchandise: Their collection also includes branded items like beanies, hats, and small pouches, designed for fans of the brand to show their support subtly. Watches of Espionage’s products reflect a blend of style, ruggedness, and homage to the intelligence community, appealing to both watch collectors and those drawn to military aesthetics. ChatGPT, What is the Watches of Espionage YouTube Channel? ChatGPT: The Watches of Espionage YouTube channel is an extension of the popular "Watches of Espionage" platform, which delves into the relationship between timepieces and the world of espionage, covert operations, and military use. The channel, like its social media counterparts, focuses on content that explores the history, significance, and stories behind watches used by spies, intelligence officers, and other covert operatives. On the YouTube channel, you might expect content such as: Watch Reviews: Discussions on specific models, often those with a strong historical connection to espionage, intelligence work, or military operations, such as the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, or Seiko divers. Historical Case Studies: Videos that explore specific moments in history where watches played a role, including stories from Cold War spies, military operatives, or famous intelligence figures and the watches they wore. Interviews and Discussions: Conversations with experts in the fields of watches, military, and intelligence, discussing how certain timepieces were used in the field, their technical features, and their significance in real-world espionage. Exploration of Iconic Spy Gear: A broader look at not just watches, but other pieces of gear that might have been used in the world of espionage, tying them back to the tactical utility of watches. The YouTube channel likely builds on the intrigue and fascination that the Watches of Espionage brand has developed among watch enthusiasts, military history buffs, and people fascinated by the clandestine world of intelligence. The goal is to provide a deeper dive into the cultural and functional significance of these watches in covert operations. Final Thoughts: AI-generated image. As AI’s capabilities expand, so too should our understanding of and respect for its capabilities. From an intelligence standpoint, the use cases are numerous. But could AI replace W.O.E.? Could it spit out weekly articles on a range of topics? The short answer is that most media, and traditional legacy watch media, could likely be replicated by AI in the near future. That said, many of the stories we tell and issues we cover have not been talked about openly, let alone documented on the internet. While we are biased, niche topics like W.O.E. will likely be one of the last genres to be “replaced” by AI. If you are in the business of regurgitating marketing material for new releases… your days may be numbered. This Dispatch is intended to serve as a simple thought experiment or even a few laughs, but AI is no joke. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Esquire Profile: The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage'

US Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s ability to live and work on the sea floor for an extended period, supported by a specialized underwater habitat. The techniques and equipment developed for SEALAB I, II, and III would later be used in shadowy underwater espionage targeting the Soviet Union, but SEALAB is better remembered to watch enthusiasts for some of the legendary watches used by some of history’s boldest divers. In this Dispatch, I’ll share how a chance encounter with a piece of handwritten history forever alters our understanding of the watches of the Navy’s final SEALAB project. __ For someone like me, the Man In The Sea Museum in Panama City Beach is something akin to paradise, providing one of the world’s most impressive collections of vintage military diving memorabilia, much of it related to SEALAB. Given the timing, SEALAB is associated with some of history’s great tool dive watches and played a key role in the development of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) But, despite what the internet may say, Rolex isn’t the only name in the SEALAB game. Thumbing through old binders while volunteering in the museum’s library, I came across an issue log for dive watches hand-written in 1968 by a SEALAB legend. The usual suspects including Rolex were there, but the log also illuminated the outsized role played by Doxa as well as another Swiss brand I would argue no one would ever guess. In this Dispatch, we’ll look to archival evidence, interviews with surviving Aquanauts, and a few educated guesses to provide the most complete picture ever assembled of the watches of SEALAB III. Man In The Sea Museum, Panama City Beach - 2022 My dad and I were hard at work cataloging and organizing the library in the Man in the Sea Museum when we came across a document that stopped us in our tracks. In this increasingly digitized world, there are still a few horological secrets lost to history waiting to be uncovered, the type of secrets that haven’t been converted to PDF. The same watch stories make the rounds again and again, some amazing discoveries are put forth by genuine horological enthusiasts, and some stories are haphazardly cobbled together by brands to help push more watches. Searching for dive watches in vintage photographs at the Man in the Sea Museum is the stuff of legend. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) Most are somewhere in between. Watches have never received the amount of attention they do today. Record-keeping for the sake of enthusiasm or posterity was not common practice. This is also true in the arena of dive watches, fostering a healthy debate about the actual timeline of the introduction of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and Rolex Submariner, in particular. Except when it comes to the military. In military settings and especially diving, recording every bit of minutiae is an occupational necessity, a matter of life and death in certain cases. Luckily, as a Coast Guard veteran turned commercial diver, it happens to be my area of interest, which is how I found myself volunteering to help organize the Man in the Sea Museum’s stacked but admittedly disheveled library a couple of years ago. The Man In The Sea Museum is home to the original SEALAB habitat as well as an incredible library full of old US Navy records. Leafing through records from the SEALAB programs, I came across a few scribbled lines on notebook paper that validated my years-long horological quest to understand the role of tool watches in the United States military, particularly in underwater applications. Along with these handwritten records, I uncovered hundreds of photographs from SEALAB that had yet to be digitized, and therefore, had yet to be seen by the watch community, until now. A dive watch enthusiast’s dream. An archival photo from the SEALAB program shows Dr. George “Papa Topside” Bond (left), Captain William Nicholson (center), and Commander Jack Tomsky (right). Tomsky is wearing a Doxa Sub. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) I went through binder after binder of records from all three of the Navy’s SEALAB experiments. I was looking for something that clued me into what equipment was used, particularly what watches were used. These aquanauts recorded everything. It was part of their job, of course, but the level of detail was staggering. A detailed record of saturation dives undertaken in a chamber at the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) preceding SEALAB III. (Source: US Navy) Finally, after hours spent carefully flipping through delicate aged paper and deciphering faded handwriting from the ‘60s, my efforts paid off. A list of the exact watches that were used on SEALAB III. And when I say exact, I mean it—right down to the serial numbers. And it came directly from one of the aquanauts, meticulously detailed like everything else about the mission. While several watchmakers have established SEALAB connections—including an excellent article by Justin Couture detailing the role potentially played by Aquastar—some of the brands mentioned in the log had never really been in the SEALAB conversation before, let alone with hard evidence of being officially issued by the US Navy. If I could, with the help of friends and former Aquanauts, prove the veracity of this hastily written log, our understanding of military dive watches would be forever altered. Here is the handwritten log that sent me so deeply down the rabbit hole. The original handwritten log was reportedly penned by none other than Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to serve on all three SEALAB missions. For the sake of legibility and to aid in deciphering the shorthand, I have—with help from surviving aquanauts—added some context to the list to help give us a better picture of who these watches were issued to. Watches Issued On 03 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Rolex, 25 jewels Cyril Tuckfield, Chief Petty Officer, USN     Rolex, serial 1478174 Derek J. Clark, Petty Officer First Class, Royal Navy    Jaquet Droz Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa William P. Lukeman, Leading Seaman, Royal Canadian Navy Doxas Issued To Aquanauts On 23 Sep & 27 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies Lieutenant Commander, USN Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Doxa 6665367 Mark E. Bradley, Lieutenant Commander, Medical Corps, USN Doxa 6665417 Robert A. Bornholdt, Lieutenant, USN, Team Leader   Aquanaut Bob Barth’s Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Unsurprisingly, we see the usual suspects on the wrists of the aquanauts, starting with Rolex, although it’s important to note that what was sometimes recorded as Rolex was sometimes actually a Tudor Submariner, as Rolex took care of distribution and delivery. In ‘69, the US Navy had a contract with Tudor that had already begun in the late ‘50s, so there’s a chance these watches came from that procurement arrangement. A brand associated with anything but diving in 2024, I was surprised to see Jaquet Droz mentioned in the issue log from SEALAB III. Looking through the list, something else stood out immediately. “JK Droz” was listed in the records as having been issued to an aquanaut. Surely not the Swatch-owned atelier producing automatons that cost six figures and watches with all sorts of crazy enameling and decorations. Jaquet Droz isn’t a name you hear in the W.O.E. sphere often. The brand has never once been mentioned on this site before, and they certainly don’t fit in with the “Watches of Espionage” crop of brands. As usual, there are layers to the story. But first, let’s look at the watches from brands we do know something about: Doxa and Rolex. While Doxa has been loosely associated with SEALAB and Navy Divers in the past, the discovery of this document adds clarity to the brand’s official position as a US Navy-issued watch during the SEALAB experiments. Digging deeper into the Doxa watches on the list, the brand’s serial numbering convention has been well documented by MKWS, a Doxa expert on Watchuseek. MKWS posits that Doxa introduced a 7-digit system where the first two numbers correspond to the year of production. In the case of all the models issued to SEALAB, that number is 66, which would suggest they were produced in ‘66, at least in theory. Officially released in 1967, there are only a few other examples of Doxa Sub 300 models from 1966, meaning the US Navy was among the earliest adopters of the brand. If that’s not an endorsement for a new-to-market dive watch, especially when Navy Divers already had access to Rolex and Tudor Submariners, I’m not sure what is. A Doxa Sub 300 from 1967. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) Interestingly, the only Rolex serial number listed also registers as being produced in ‘66 (Rolex serial numbers of that era aren’t an exact science, but can be traced to an approximate year of production). This all checks out, as the gearing up for SEALAB III would have taken place during this time. SEALAB II had been a successful mission in ‘65, and SEALAB III took some time due to engineering requirements and modifications that allowed the habitat to go significantly deeper than the previous two missions, 610 feet as opposed to 205 feet for SEALAB II and 192 feet for SEALAB I. The Vietnam War also put pressure on budgets for such a novel and costly project. Bob Barth (right) wearing his Rolex Submariner 5512, one of many Rolex Submariners used on the SEALAB missions. Much of the equipment and material—including watches—for the final SEALAB program was likely carried over from SEALAB I and II. After Doxa, the second most present brand appearing in the logs was Rolex, and the Crown had certainly been ever-present in underwater exploration for nearly a decade at the commencement of SEALAB III. Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to have dived on all three SEALAB missions, was reportedly instrumental in developing the Rolex Sea Dweller. This SEALAB III Rolex Submariner is not on our list but was owned by Leo Gies and sold by Bonhams in 2015. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Barth dove with his Rolex Submariner on SEALAB I and II, so it’s no surprise to see several Submariners listed in the SEALAB III records. Another Rolex Submariner was issued to Leo Gies who is recorded on our list as having received a Doxa. Gies’s Submariner—which was sold by Bonhams on behalf of the Gies family in 2015—was engraved “SEALAB III” on the back, which makes its absence from our list all the more interesting. Maybe there is another handwritten log out there. Our research continues. We’ll do another Dispatch on the role of Rolex in US Navy Undersea Research, but for now, let’s continue by discussing the role played by Doxa in the dive watch landscape of the late 1960s. Doxa & Diving In The 1960s Georges Ducommun founded Doxa in 1899, and the company quickly developed a reputation for producing a broad range of dress and sport watches—but the brand will always be best remembered for its contributions to the world of undersea timekeeping. In the 1960s, Doxa was one of the front-runners when it came to producing watches specifically for professional diving applications. The “skin diver” category of watches was well established, with sporty watches suitable for recreational water activity. These came out of the recreational diving boom of the late ‘50s, but as diving equipment became more technologically advanced, so did the need for a watch that could handle significant depth and pressure, but more importantly, remain legible in murky water. This is where Doxa’s signature design element surfaced; the company found that a specific hue of orange was most visible underwater. The bright orange “Professional” dial became their calling card. Legendary oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau wearing a Doxa Sub 300T “Sharkhunter”. The Sub 300 and later 300T models emerged from Doxa’s design and field studies and quickly became a popular diving watch for professionals—the intended target segment, and the military alike. The Swiss Armed Forces purchased and issued this model to Swiss combat divers in approximately 1970. Bolstered by its inclusion in Clive Cussler’s thriller novels, the orange dial and “beads-of-rice” bracelet have become a common sight in recreational and military dive communities ever since. The model also became popular because it was championed by none other than French oceanographer Jacques Costeau. Doxa & The US Navy A Navy Experimental Diving Unit photo from the early 1970s shows a Doxa Sub 300T Professional in use. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) With a better grasp of the brands and watches on the list, our next step was to track down and speak with the surviving aquanauts, one of whom provided a bombshell about the written log’s author. When we reached out to aquanaut Richard “Blackie” Blackburn, he took one look at the log and confirmed that it was the handwriting of none other than Bob Barth, the Bob Barth who helped create the Sea-Dweller, pioneering the use of a helium escape valve in watches in the process. Barth was also, according to Blackburn, the man who kept track of where all the Navy’s Doxa Sub models and other watches were going. Unfortunately, Barth passed in 2020, so we weren’t going to be able to ask him directly about the log, but our research carried on. It’s also important to note there is no mention of the Doxa Conquistador in our log, which is a specific version of the 300T equipped with a helium escape valve. For more on the rarest Doxa Sub variant, check out Perezcope’s research on Doxa’s role in developing the helium escape valve. Given SEALAB was a saturation diving experiment—the one environment where you need the valve—it would have made sense for Doxa to have sent over the Conquistador, but we found no definitive evidence of this being the case. There are numerous examples of Doxa Sub models being used by Navy Divers, but their role in SEALAB hasn’t been confirmed until now. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) The next step was taking stock of exactly what was issued using the records and then matching those serial numbers with the watches on the wrists of aquanauts, if possible. It was time for the detective work. While many have passed—SEALAB III took place 55 years ago—five of the aquanauts listed in the log as the recipients of Doxa watches are still alive today. We started by tracking down their contact info and cold-sending emails to these legends of undersea exploration. Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Taken while working on an oil spill in California after leaving the Navy, this photo shows Richard Blackburn’s Rolex GMT-Master, a gift from Bob Barth upon his retirement. Whether or not Blackburn ever received a Doxa remains a mystery. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) When I sent an email to Richard “Blackie” Blackburn with my number in the signature, my phone rang about two minutes later. After identifying the handwriting on the log as that of Bob Barth, Blackie informed me he had no recollection of ever being issued a Doxa. But, he said it wasn’t that unusual to see his name on the log, describing Barth’s issue process for watches as being as casual as “trading a cup of coffee” for a watch in certain instances before noting the transaction in his log with whatever name and number moved him at the time. Years later, Barth made up for it, gifting Blackburn a Rolex GMT-Master with his name and “SEALAB III” engraved on the caseback, a watch that he lost to a shady watch repairman years later. Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Cyril Lafferty during SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: Shared By Perezcope) Because of a photo circulating the web showing the former Royal Navy officer wearing a Doxa, I felt confident Cyril Lafferty, who was loaned to the US Navy SEALAB project by Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, might have the goods. While Mr. Lafferty confirmed he is the man in the photo wearing a Doxa, he said he had no recollection of being issued a Doxa watch or any other by the US Navy. He did remember being issued a Rolex or Omega by the Royal Navy, however. Later serving as the captain of the Royal Navy’s only deep-diving research vessel, HMS Reclaim, Lafferty went on to pioneer hyperbaric treatment techniques for multiple sclerosis. Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Then-LCDR Osborn preparing for a dive in 1968. (Photo Credit: Jim Osborn) In an email exchange with retired Captain Osborn, he confirmed he was issued a Doxa watch and wore it for all of the years he was an active Navy Diver before making the change to a Seiko in 1983, a gift from his wife when he retired from the Navy. Years later, Osborn sold the Doxa and a personal Rolex to a jeweler, saying, “The cash went into my pocket and I never gave it a second thought.” We may not have the watch or its serial number, but this is a second piece of evidence—after the Laffery photo—supporting the issue log we found. Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies, Lieutenant Commander, USN While I failed to contact LCDR Gies via email, the salty old Naval officer was kind enough to give me a call one Friday morning. Despite the passing of some five and half decades, Gies is razor sharp and remembered being issued a Rolex dive watch before receiving the Doxa when he joined the SEALAB III program. Sadly, the Doxa is no longer in his possession. After leaving the Doxa with a watchmaker in the 1970s, Mr. Gies explained he never saw it again, thinking it was perhaps sold under dubious circumstances. It’s the kind of thing that could break a watch enthusiast’s heart, but for Gies, another lost diving tool wasn’t a huge deal then or now. In any case, Gies’s recollection serves as another hard firsthand link confirming the US Navy’s issue of Doxa watches during SEALAB III. Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN I met Omar Moore in 2022 at a SEALAB reunion. He was wearing a Navy-issued Doxa T-graph, the stuff of legend. The hardest to track down was ironically the only aquanaut from the list I have met in person, Keith “Omar” Moore. On the very trip where I discovered the issue log in question, I also attended 2022’s SEALAB reunion. Moore attended wearing the impeccable example of a Doxa T-Graph photographed above, a watch he says was also issued to him by the Navy in 1968, before its commercial introduction in 1969. Could one of the serial numbers on this list belong to Moore’s T-Graph? After several unanswered emails, I asked a couple of the other aquanauts I connected with to vouch for me to Moore. 1968 photo of Omar Moore showing the incredible amount of gear worn by divers training for SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: US Navy) It did the trick. One morning a few days later, the phone rang. Moore informed me he was indeed issued a Doxa on one of the days listed in our note. He remembered Bob Barth setting up a small folding table not unlike a bake sale where SEALAB III divers and support staff could go and make an argument for why they should be issued a watch. Moore’s rapport with Barth was good, and Moore distinctly remembered Barth throwing him his brand new Searambler dial Doxa in its box from “across the room”. Where Barth got the watches from is unclear, but it is at least possible Doxa sent the watches to Barth directly or in the care of Barth because of his status as one of the “celebrity” aquanauts along with Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter. In any case, a few months later, Barth gave Moore another Doxa, this time the then-pre-production T-Graph chronograph. Moore remembered using both extensively in training dives and while supporting the construction and installation of the SEALAB III at no less than 610 feet of seawater off the coast of California’s San Clemente Island. “Mr. Moore, can I take a photo of your watch?” “Sure, man, whatever”. Unfortunately, when I was finally able to confirm the serial numbers of  Moore’s Doxa, both of which he still has, neither matched the handwritten log. Here are the numbers as read (and confirmed) from Moore’s Doxa watches: Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph - Serial: 6675653 Doxa Sub 300 Searambler - Serial: 717923 How the documented serial numbers manage to differ from Moore’s actual watches is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the recordkeeping on Barth’s part was simply not great—a theory Moore seconded—or the names and numbers had become mixed up as could easily happen with any piece of diving equipment. The idea that the first two numbers of a Doxa serial number indicate the year is also not watertight at this point as we are pretty sure the T-Graph wasn’t around in 1966 when the Doxa Sub itself was in its infancy. There are other examples of vintage T-Graphs with “66” as the beginning of the serial number, so I believe Moore’s example to be correct. Omar Moore’s incredible Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph. While it isn’t the smoking gun I was hoping for—a perfect match between the serial numbers on the handwritten log and the caseback of a Doxa Sub owned by a surviving Aquanaut—we’ve done more than enough to prove the role played by Doxa during SEALAB III and after, serving as an intriguing addition to the annals of dive and military watch history. Of course, the mission to record these stories for posterity is never over, so let’s finish with a closer look at the role played potentially by Jaquet Droz during SEALAB III. Though the log lists Moore as the recipient of a “JK Droz”, he has no memory of the watch. The plot thickens… An Unexpected Contender Jaquet Droz produced dozens of dive watches during the 1960s and 70s. Could some of them have been used on SEALAB III? The records indicate that several “JK Droz” watches were also issued alongside the Doxa models. If that sounds familiar, that’s because it sounds like the modern luxury brand “Jaquet Droz” that produces intricate automaton watches. And there is indeed a connection—but let’s get it straight—aquanauts were not wearing complicated watches featuring mechanical butterflies and singing birds worth tens of thousands of dollars during SEALAB III. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a prolific watchmaker and automaton producer in the 1700s based in the Swiss city of Neuchatel. His name looms large in the Swiss Jura watchmaking region, and that makes it the perfect borrowed name for a brand—or many. Throughout the years, a few brands have resurrected the Jaquet Droz name to capitalize on his fame and imply a quality product, but many of these have a tenuous connection at best. They all originated in the same area of Switzerland, but that’s about it. It’s next to impossible to know for sure, but there are a few watch sightings in SEALAB archives that could be Jaquet Droz. The "JK Droz" watches that were issued have yet to be spotted. They could well be one of the ones pictured above or below, but we have no conclusive evidence. Given the timeframe and the role of the watch, it makes sense that the watch came from Jaquet Droz SA registered by Dr. Charles-Edouard Virchaux in 1964. The name was used to brand watches in the “Coopérative” that he ran. The Coopérative was essentially an OEM manufacturer that produced what were known as “catalog watches” that could be branded by any number of clients. (Photo Credit: Naval Undersea Museum) His in-house brand became known as Jaquet Droz, and they produced watches that looked similar to watches from a number of popular tool watch brands at the time. In the photo above, the “C” case might appear at first glance to be an Aquastar—and it may well be—but indeed Jaquet Droz also produced models resembling this design. Since the logs indicate that a few “JK Droz” watches were issued, this may be one, possibly even a standard skin diver whose bezel fell off. We may never know, but with period ads boasting that there were 1000 distinct models available, the possibility is there. Jaquet Droz might not get named along with the usual undersea living and exploration watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but that’s just it—the story is constantly being written. With these documents, two new brands are imbued with the lore of the United States Navy’s SEALAB program. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch  

In 2001, Special Forces icon Billy Waugh celebrated his 72nd birthday in the remote mountains of Afghanistan while working for CIA in the search for Osama Bin Laden. While his age was unusual for the tip of the spear, this was far from Waugh’s first rodeo. From his service in Vietnam with MACV-SOG to fighting in the Global War On Terror with the CIA’s Ground Branch, Waugh was a larger-than-life character who became a legend in SpecOps and the Intelligence Community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we tell the story of Billy Waugh’s life and some of the watches he wore including a Seiko 6309, a Rolex GMT-Master, and a solid-gold Rolex President Day-Date. Enjoy episode seven of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.

And Why You Probably Shouldn’t Look at photos from any conflict over the past 50 years and you are bound to see uniformed US military personnel wearing a wristwatch on the inside of their wrist. While it’s difficult to pinpoint when exactly this tradition began, Vietnam-era Green Beret and MACV-SOG operator John Stryker Meyer AKA “Tilt” told us it was a habit he picked up in Special Forces training in the 1960s.  The practice of wearing a watch on the inside of the wrist has several functional benefits in a tactical environment, including protecting the glass/crystal from damage, preventing glare or reflections, and ensuring the watch is legible while operating a weapons system or lying prone. That said, I would argue today “inside-wristing” is just as much about culture as anything else. A watch is one of the few items customizable by uniformed personnel and for some it is a sign that you are a “gunfighter”, “operator” or play Call of Duty on the weekends.  NSW operators train Hellenic special operations forces in 2024. First, let's explore some of the legitimate reasons why military personnel wear watches on the inside of the wrist. To Negate Reflection: Managing one's profile—how easily you are seen or discovered—is a key part of any military operation. Camouflage is the most obvious example, but something as small as a glare or reflection of a wristwatch in a sniper hide or while moving to target could compromise an operation. There are few reflective things in nature and a trained observer is always looking for something abnormal. Wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist reduces this risk. Delta Force member with Suunto compass/watch combo, the watch on the inside of the wrist. Light Signature Management: In a tactical environment, a watch's nighttime legibility is essential. Most analog military watches incorporate luminous phosphorescent “lume” on the dial and hands and Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.s) have a push button illumination function. “Light discipline” is a part of signature management in low light/no light scenarios, and the lume can pose a potential vulnerability, especially with dive watches that are designed for underwater legibility. Tritium, a radioactive isotope commonly used in military watches, is particularly visible through Night Vision Goggles and scopes. Again, wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist diverts the light towards the individual vs towards the enemy, potentially reducing your signature. Modern dive watches like the Tudor FXD offer significant illumination, which is ideal for diving but not for combat. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Of note, over time military members have used several other methods to mitigate the reflection and light emissions, including a simple watch cover, with Vietnam Era Navy SEALs fashioning snap-in rivets to attach a thin leather watch cover. In the African bush wars, this was also common and served the additional purpose of protecting the watch against harsh environments and thorns. Legendary SEAL Barry Enoch wears a Tudor Submariner with a custom leather cover intended to limit reflections. Running The Gun: One of the most common reasons people point to for wearing the watch inside the wrist is that it is easier to check the time when weapons handling during combat and/or Close Quarters Battle (CQB). The idea is that with the watch on your support hand extended on the rifle, the time is visible without canting or adjusting your wrist. While I wonder how often someone really checks the time during a gunfight, this theory likely has validity for those with extended periods lying prone and/or in a sniper hide where movement could give up your position. 10th Special Forces Group conducting CQB training. Additionally, some former SOF members I spoke with explained that wearing the watch inside the wrist makes it easier to check the time with bulky gloves and prevents grinding the watch into the wrist during push-ups and obstacle course runs. Cool Guy Fashion: Despite the many legitimate reasons for practitioners to wear watches on the inside of the wrist, I would argue that for many it boils down to culture and personal expression. “Tacticool” fashion, whether Merrell shoes, 5.11 pants, Oakleys or beards, and American Flag baseball hats, generally starts with SOF units, born out of utility. It is then picked up by the “regular” military and ultimately filters down to pop culture, civilians, and weekend warriors. SEAL Team TV Show. Why You Shouldn't “Inside Wrist” As a former CIA Case Officer, I generally avoid anything that is tacticool. While it may be a practical application for law enforcement, SpecOps, and uniformed military personnel, a black Digital Tool Watch on the inside of your wrist is a clear “tell,” a signal to others that one is a “quiet professional-gray man.” For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while undercover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. That said, at the end of the day you should enjoy this hobby in any way you see fit. If you want to LARP as a Navy SEAL, LARP on. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches *This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.