A Watch & Strap Commemorating The 100th Training Class For France’s Elite Maritime SpecOps Unit Though military-issued timepieces and privately-purchased watches worn during military or government service are significant to our community, the concept of a customized “Unit Watch” presents one of the single best examples of how watches are ingrained in the culture of the military, SpecOps, and the world of intelligence. There are other important players in the modern unit watch landscape, but Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) will always occupy a special place in our hearts. From the Shield’s historic connections to US Navy SEALs in the Vietnam War to the modern US Secret Service Counter Assault Team and multiple Tier One SpecOps units, Tudor’s roots within our community run as deep as any. Among Tudor’s earliest forays into military service is the brand’s relationship with the Marine Nationale or French Navy, a partnership born in the 1950s that laid the groundwork for the modern Pelagos FXD in 2021. In this Dispatch, our friend Ross Povey, a dedicated Tudor expert and the founder of Tudor Collector, shares the intriguing story of the second modern Tudor commissioned for the French Navy’s elite maritime commandos. By Ross Povey The world of military timepieces is enriched by stories of watches that need to have durability, precision, and often distinctive design elements. Whether at the direction of the specific defence department or the requirements of the personnel using them, these watches often have unique attributes that set them apart from civilian examples. And it’s this aspect that drives collectors to acquire such timepieces and chase examples that have been developed and used by the military. Tudor’s relationship with the Commando Hubert dates back to the 1950s, with this image of a Commando Hubert operator and their Tudor Sub coming from 1977. Tudor has a track record of working closely with military forces around the world and no other example is more widely recognised than its partnership with the French National Navy, the Marine Nationale, or MN as it is known. The genesis of the Pelagos FXD lies within this partnership and it is a relationship that dates back to the 1950s. Aside from the publicly available Pelagos FXD and the new FXD GMT MN editions, there has recently been another special “unit watch” commissioned by Commando Hubert to commemorate the 100th Combat Swimmer Course that concluded this summer. The Tudor Black Bay 54 was designed to commemorate the 100th combat diver’s course for the Commando Hubert. The watch is a custom Black Bay 54 with “200m” text on the dial and it marks another significant chapter in this storied history. This special edition watch honours the significant milestone of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course hosted and led by the French diving school, the course is a prerequisite for an operator to be assigned to Commando Hubert. This watch also gave birth to a unique accessory; a unique version of the W.O.E.-ZA Commando Strap crafted from vintage parachute material. 100th Combat Swimmer Course The graduation ceremony following the 100th Combat Swimmer Course. (Photo Credit: Marine Nationale) The Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) is a rigorous 27-week training regimen that prepares France's elite naval commandos for complex operations across various environments. Conducted under the supervision of a lieutenant and ten petty officer instructors, the CNC encompasses three intensive phases, focusing on oxygen diving, preparation for combat swimmer attacks, and specialized combat swimmer skills. The program challenges candidates with deep-sea navigation, underwater demolition, and high-risk parachuting, concluding with a demanding set of exams to test their mastery of these complex disciplines. Only 5 to 10% of those who start the CNC earn the combat swimmer certificate, a testament to the course's difficulty and the high standards expected of participants. This badge of honour signifies more than just successful completion; it denotes a profound journey of personal and professional growth, marking its bearers as exceptional warriors capable of adapting to and controlling aquatic, terrestrial, and aerial environments. This elite training ensures that graduates are not only skilled in advanced military techniques but also equipped to lead and excel in high-stakes missions worldwide. The Black Bay 54 Unit Watch The standard production Black Bay 54 calls back to Tudor’s earliest dive watches. Released in 2023, Tudor revisited its origins with the Black Bay 54, a homage to the brand's first Submariner from 1954. The watch features a historically accurate bezel insert and a tweak to the hands, presenting a watch that's true to its dive watch heritage. With a number of striking similarities to the Submariner reference 7922 with a 37mm no-crown-guard case and water resistance up to 100 meters, the Black Bay 54 maintains these classic proportions while incorporating the modern Tudor manufacture movement, calibre MT5400, and enhancing water resistance to 200 meters. Unlike the standard Tudor models available through official retailers, the Black Bay 54 designed for Commando Hubert includes unique elements that I can share here exclusively. The watch dial, uncluttered by the usual depth ratings and certifications, features a streamlined aesthetic with just a bold red "200m" marking, omitting the typical chronometer certification texts for a no-nonsense military vibe. Furthermore, the dial is marked with "CNC xxx-100" at the bottom, signifying "Cours des Nageurs de Combat" and linking each watch to one of the 100 combat divers’ courses, creating a direct line to the historical courses taught by Commando Hubert. The Heritage Edition Commando Strap (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) To accompany the special edition Black Bay 54, Commando Hubert wanted a special strap, which led to the collaboration with my friends at Watches of Espionage and Zulu Alpha Straps. As I’ve written about before, the straps delivered to accompany the commemorative Black Bay 54 were made from a new-old-stock roll of original parachute webbing. This strap not only provides a robust and practical fit for diving and military operations but also carries the essence of history in its fibres. To complete the set, each watch and strap came in a miniature FROGS (Full Range Oxygen Gas System) as a watch box. The collaboration began when Commando Hubert divers expressed the need for a durable strap that resonated with the heritage of Marine Nationale divers. These elite divers historically crafted makeshift straps from parachute webbing for their Tudor MilSubs. The result of extensive prototyping and feedback from the divers led to the creation of two versions of the Commando Strap: a regular production version made from bespoke elastic webbing and the Heritage edition made from vintage material. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) Each strap is fitted with a metal buckle system that has been in use by the Marine Nationale since the 1950s. Used for a number of applications, it was used by Commando Hubert for diving weight belts. The tension makes it very hard to release the system by mistake, but if one decides to ditch some weight in order to surface, it can be done one-handed in a “finger snap”. A Tribute to the Legacy The completion of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) by Commando Hubert is not only a milestone for the French Navy but also a celebration of endurance, skill, and the spirit of the elite naval commandos. To commemorate this landmark, we have the special Black Bay 54 that was presented on Heritage Commando Strap, made from vintage parachute webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) It’s unclear whether the French operators will utilize the special edition Black Bay 54 operationally or view them as commemorative timepieces honouring the unit’s history, but we do know the Commando Hubert wear and use their special two-line FXD models in diving contexts, even forgoing the use of a diving computer in many combat swimming scenarios. In any case, the addition of the 100th CNC Black Bay 54 into the annals of Tudor’s already extensive history with maritime special operations is further evidence of the strong link between timepieces and special operations. As W.O.E. often says, the Use Your Tools ethos is alive and well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap About The Author: Ross Povey, the founder of TudorCollector.com is regarded as the world’s leading expert on vintage Tudor watches. Although an expert on Rolex and Tudor watches primarily, Ross’s work covers the entire field of horology. He writes for and has contributed to some of the most influential publications, including Revolution, The Telegraph, GQ, Forbes, The Rake, Wristcheck, Watch Pro, Watchonista, Hodinkee, QP and is the co-author of the book Daytona Perpetual, a celebration of the automatic Rolex Daytona released through Pucci Papaleo Editore. Ross is Communications Director for Monaco Legend Group auction house and is also an international speaker, regularly hosting watch events in the UK and globally.

And Why You Probably Shouldn’t Look at photos from any conflict over the past 50 years and you are bound to see uniformed US military personnel wearing a wristwatch on the inside of their wrist. While it’s difficult to pinpoint when exactly this tradition began, Vietnam-era Green Beret and MACV-SOG operator John Stryker Meyer AKA “Tilt” told us it was a habit he picked up in Special Forces training in the 1960s.  The practice of wearing a watch on the inside of the wrist has several functional benefits in a tactical environment, including protecting the glass/crystal from damage, preventing glare or reflections, and ensuring the watch is legible while operating a weapons system or lying prone. That said, I would argue today “inside-wristing” is just as much about culture as anything else. A watch is one of the few items customizable by uniformed personnel and for some it is a sign that you are a “gunfighter”, “operator” or play Call of Duty on the weekends.  NSW operators train Hellenic special operations forces in 2024. First, let's explore some of the legitimate reasons why military personnel wear watches on the inside of the wrist. To Negate Reflection: Managing one's profile—how easily you are seen or discovered—is a key part of any military operation. Camouflage is the most obvious example, but something as small as a glare or reflection of a wristwatch in a sniper hide or while moving to target could compromise an operation. There are few reflective things in nature and a trained observer is always looking for something abnormal. Wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist reduces this risk. Delta Force member with Suunto compass/watch combo, the watch on the inside of the wrist. Light Signature Management: In a tactical environment, a watch's nighttime legibility is essential. Most analog military watches incorporate luminous phosphorescent “lume” on the dial and hands and Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.s) have a push button illumination function. “Light discipline” is a part of signature management in low light/no light scenarios, and the lume can pose a potential vulnerability, especially with dive watches that are designed for underwater legibility. Tritium, a radioactive isotope commonly used in military watches, is particularly visible through Night Vision Goggles and scopes. Again, wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist diverts the light towards the individual vs towards the enemy, potentially reducing your signature. Modern dive watches like the Tudor FXD offer significant illumination, which is ideal for diving but not for combat. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Of note, over time military members have used several other methods to mitigate the reflection and light emissions, including a simple watch cover, with Vietnam Era Navy SEALs fashioning snap-in rivets to attach a thin leather watch cover. In the African bush wars, this was also common and served the additional purpose of protecting the watch against harsh environments and thorns. Legendary SEAL Barry Enoch wears a Tudor Submariner with a custom leather cover intended to limit reflections. Running The Gun: One of the most common reasons people point to for wearing the watch inside the wrist is that it is easier to check the time when weapons handling during combat and/or Close Quarters Battle (CQB). The idea is that with the watch on your support hand extended on the rifle, the time is visible without canting or adjusting your wrist. While I wonder how often someone really checks the time during a gunfight, this theory likely has validity for those with extended periods lying prone and/or in a sniper hide where movement could give up your position. 10th Special Forces Group conducting CQB training. Additionally, some former SOF members I spoke with explained that wearing the watch inside the wrist makes it easier to check the time with bulky gloves and prevents grinding the watch into the wrist during push-ups and obstacle course runs. Cool Guy Fashion: Despite the many legitimate reasons for practitioners to wear watches on the inside of the wrist, I would argue that for many it boils down to culture and personal expression. “Tacticool” fashion, whether Merrell shoes, 5.11 pants, Oakleys or beards, and American Flag baseball hats, generally starts with SOF units, born out of utility. It is then picked up by the “regular” military and ultimately filters down to pop culture, civilians, and weekend warriors. SEAL Team TV Show. Why You Shouldn't “Inside Wrist” As a former CIA Case Officer, I generally avoid anything that is tacticool. While it may be a practical application for law enforcement, SpecOps, and uniformed military personnel, a black Digital Tool Watch on the inside of your wrist is a clear “tell,” a signal to others that one is a “quiet professional-gray man.” For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while undercover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. That said, at the end of the day you should enjoy this hobby in any way you see fit. If you want to LARP as a Navy SEAL, LARP on. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches *This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

When retired US Navy SEAL and friend of W.O.E. Dave Hall reached out saying he would be attending SOF Dive, an invite-only event for special operations divers, we told him to keep an eye out for cool watches. If you don’t know Dave, on top of being an old-school frogman, he’s the subject of one of our first and favorite profiles (read HERE). Dave is a dedicated watch enthusiast, and the owner of an incredible SEAL Team-issued Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner backed by a story you’ll have to read to believe. During his career, Dave also conducted a clandestine beach reconnaissance in Haiti in 1994 and deployed numerous times during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), earning a Purple Heart during a firefight on an Iraqi rooftop in 2004 before making an unlikely comeback to full duty. As you may have surmised from this introduction, Dave is the kind of guy who takes his work seriously, and the photos he sent and stories he relayed from SOF Dive were so intriguing we knew we had to share. As we often discuss, many at the tip of the undersea spear rely on Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) for timing, but Dave’s reporting proves once again there is a thriving community of analog tool watch users ascribing to the “Use Your Tools” ethos in the world of SpecOps, and especially diving. The Real Watches Worn By SOF Divers Dave locking out of a German submarine torpedo tube in 1991 while training with the German Kampfschwimmers. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) By Dave Hall Pre-Dive: As a retired career SEAL and an avid watch aficionado, I keep my eyes peeled for interesting watches on the wrists of interesting people I meet. I recently attended the SOF Dive 2024 event as a strategic advisor for Blueye Robotics, a Norwegian manufacturer of remotely operated vehicles or ROVs. This was the 3rd annual SOF Dive organized by Patriot3 and the second year it was held at the Fantasy Lake Adventure Park in Wake Forest, NC. The venue was perfect for combat swimmers from around the world to handle and dive new gear as well as to interface with the manufacturers of such specialized military diving equipment over the course of three days. SOF Dive presents a rare opportunity for combat divers from around the world to meet in person, test equipment, and talk shop. (Photo Credit: Patriot3, Inc.) Besides the diving, there was ample time to socialize after hours both onsite and at Compass Rose Brewery in nearby Raleigh. As a retired frogman, watch spotter, and Blueye Robotics rep, I was perfectly positioned to observe the various watches used by U.S. and allied special ops frogmen. Let’s dive into the watches of SOF Dive 2024. Leaving Surface: The event was a great opportunity for me to reconnect with some units I had worked with in the past and to discuss current trends in each unit’s equipment selection, mission needs, and watches. In addition to G-Shock and other affordable digital watches, there were more Garmins than I expected and a smattering of interesting analog tool watches, always great to see.  German Kampfschwimmer - The Sinn UX S One of my first stops was paying a visit to the Kommando Spezialkräfte Marine (KSM), a unit comprised of individual operators known as Kampfschwimmer or Combat Swimmers, Germany’s equivalent to our SEALs. I was fortunate to work with the Kampfschwimmers during my time in the Teams and learned a tremendous amount from them in Germany at the end of the Cold War in 1991. I saw a few guys jocking up in German Flecktarn camo wetsuits and went over to introduce myself. Asking if they were from Eckernförde and seeing smiles and affirmative nods, I closed in to finalize my bonafides. The author testing the extremely rare HK P11 in Germany in 1991. The rare HK was designed to fire tungsten darts in combat diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) I produced some pics on my phone of my time working with their unit in Germany in the early 90s and before you knew it, we were old friends talking shop. Apparently, the pictures I showed them are still on the walls of their headquarters back home in Germany and they recognized them instantly. With the visual creds established and after dropping some familiar names back and forth, we chatted about old unit members, new gear, and watches. One of the Kampfschwimmer’s Sinn UX S models alongside Dave’s well-worn U2. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The group that attended SOF Dive was happy to show me their issued Sinn UX S watches, a special unit version of the brand’s oil-filled quartz diver with the crown at ten o’clock as opposed to the traditional four. The UX S issued to Kampfschwimmers is the most recent installment in the unit’s impressive horological history that also includes a special IWC Porsche Design titanium diver known as the Ocean “Bund”, which dates back to my time working with the Germans. The Kampfschwimmer UX S is virtually the same watch issued to GSG 9, Germany’s elite federal police tactical unit, but without a unit logo on the dial. “It’s a little stealthier that way”, the combat divers said with a wink. The KSM’s watch history also includes the titanium IWC Porsche Design Ocean Bund. (Watch Photo Credit: Hairspring) US Army Special Forces Demonstrated by this Special Forces operator wearing a Seamaster Diver 300 in 2023, there are watch nerds throughout the world of Special Operations (Photo Credit: 20th Special Forces Group) More commonly associated with terrestrial operations, US Army Special Forces maintains a comprehensive combat diving capability. Combat Diver qualified Green Berets from the 3rd, 7th, and 10th Special Forces Groups attended SOF Dive 2024. Interestingly, their watches varied from Group to Group. Let’s take a closer look. 10th Special Forces Group - Marathon TSAR Marathon is one of the only brands directly supplying the US Military with analog watches in 2024 (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Hailing from their Headquarters in Fort Carson, Colorado, combat divers from the 10th Special Forces Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition held in Key West, Florida. All three members of the 10th SFG(A) attending SOF Dive 2024 displayed their unit-issued Marathon TSARs, each worn on aftermarket nylon straps. Combat divers from 10th Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition. (Photo Credit: US Army) Analog watches are generally preferred for oxygen rebreather operations by the most accomplished combat divers, so maybe the uniformly-issued TSAR is a small peek at the differentiator that makes 10th SFG (A) excel at the Combat Diver Competition. I’ve crossed paths with 10th Group guys many times in Europe over the years. They’ve always been top-notch, highly professional, and well-led soldiers. Marathon, a popular watch in our community, is well-known for supplying its SAR collection to US and Canadian military forces. 3rd Special Forces Group - A Casio & Garmins Garmin and Casio will always be popular among special operators. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Two out of three of the operators from 3rd Group went for Garmin with one guy sporting a more rugged Casio, though it wasn’t technically a G-Shock. The Casio was a W736H-1AV and the Garmins appeared to be from the Tactix and Fenix families. The Casio with its easy-to-touch backlight button is great for checking those leg times on combat swimmer dives. According to the guys, Garmin smartwatches are catching on with 3rd Group divers, although I personally would relegate that watch mainly for compressed air dives rather than oxygen rebreather dives. As discussed in a recent Dispatch covering the assassination of former Russian submariner commander Stanislav Rzhitsky (read HERE), connected watches including Garmin and the Apple Watch also pose significant risks. I operated with 3rd SFG (A) in Afghanistan in 2005 and have nothing but admiration for the Army Special Forces men I have worked with from that Group. 7th Special Forces Group - The Timex Ironman Classic 30 A Timex Ironman on the wrist of a 7th Group operator. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) This watch surprised me but makes a certain amount of sense upon further examination. An affordable digital Timex is optimized for an owner who takes fitness seriously while still wanting to blend seamlessly into urban environments. The sole 7th Group guy I met was proud to display his Timex Ironman while his fellow SFers attempted to tease him. All in all, the Ironman isn’t a horrible watch for diving and there are other examples of Timex being used by SEALs and other special operators. Combat swimmer dives are typically rather shallow so the watch is more than adequate as far as watertight integrity. Former US Navy SEALs Jocko Willink (right) wearing a Timex Ironman in the 1990s while re-enlisting legendary SEAL and good friend Thomas “Drago” Dzieran (left). The Indiglo watch light feature attracted a lot of SEAL attention in the late 1980s. I purchased my own Timex before the G-Shocks were issued which were a little more rugged. I didn’t get to the bottom of whether this one was issued or personally purchased. I suppose it could go either way. US Marine Corps 2nd Force Reconnaissance - TAG Heuer, Sangin, & More Garmin A Garmin and a Sangin make a lot of sense, but the TAG Heuer was out of left field. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) With an operational emphasis on amphibious capabilities, it was no surprise to see the men of US Marine Corps Force Reconnaissance in attendance. Their watches were particularly interesting and once again demonstrated that watch enthusiasts are everywhere and by no means uncommon in special operations. Unsurprisingly, one Marine wore a Garmin Fenix Pro, but both of the others served up more obscure choices, with one opting for a GMT version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer and the other Devil Dog choosing a Kinetic GMT from Sangin, a Marine SOF veteran-owned brand that has been profiled on W.O.E. in the past (read HERE). A couple of deep cuts from the men of USMC Force Recon. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The use of GMT watches makes a lot of sense given the use of Zulu Time in military and intelligence operations. A Sangin on the wrist of a Marine special operator is also no big shocker given the founder of the company comes from that community, but a seldom-seen GMT version of the modern TAG Heuer Aquaracer is something I never would have expected. I can’t help but wonder what the story is there, and I didn’t get a chance to ask. I was fortunate to work closely with Marine Special Operations Forces during my SEAL career. My SEAL platoon trained with and deployed alongside a 2nd Force Recon Company from 1989 to 1990 and we often interacted with Recon Marines during exercises and deployments in the years following, including Marine Corps SOCOM Det ONE in 2004 while in Iraq. It’s always good to see these guys getting after it outside their quonset huts on Onslow Beach. Oorah, to them. French Commando Hubert - The Garmin Descent Mk2 A Garmin Descent Mk2 was worn by a frogman from the Commando Hubert. Better known for its connection to the Tudor Pelagos FXD, France’s Commando Hubert also utilizes more tech-forward digital smartwatches from Garmin for certain training and operational scenarios. However, when diving with a rebreather, members of the unit indicated they only use analog watches. Still, at least at SOF Dive, the French frogmen we met wore the Garmin Descent Mk2, essentially a hybrid between the Fenix fitness smartwatch and a full-service diving computer. We asked the Commando Hubert divers to wear their FXD watches to next year’s SOF Dive. (Photo Credit: Commando Hubert) Given W.O.E.’s recent release of the Commando Strap, which was designed for the Commando Hubert to use with its Tudor FXD unit watches, we might have preferred to see another two-line FXD in the wild, but it’s possible the operators making the trip to the United States preferred to keep their more expensive Tudor watches at home in Toulon. Of note is the custom camouflage wetsuit worn by Commando Hubert, which is produced by Beuchat, a French diving company associated with the Marine Nationale for decades. My SEAL platoon worked closely with Commando Hubert at the end of the Cold War while deployed in 1991 to Europe before and during a large NATO exercise. The post-exercise drinking in Scotland put my high school French teacher’s laborious instruction to good use. I stuck to English this time around and thankfully their English was much better than my French ever was.  Romanian 164th Naval Special Operations - Garmin A Romanian special operator—like many others at SOF Dive—utilized a Garmin for his diving needs. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The Romanian divers were some of my favorites to speak with on this trip. They, like many of the other divers, utilized a Garmin for their diving needs. However, unlike the other divers at SOF Dive 2024, their country was not on the “good guy” list when I began my career in Naval Special Warfare in the late 1980s. Times change, and in Romania’s case, for the better, thankfully. I thoroughly enjoyed discussing their country with them and just generally affirming that frogmen the world over share a commonality through our experiences on and under the sea in very trying conditions that only those who have “been there and done that” truly understand. I was very honored to receive a challenge coin from the Romanians and wish them the very best. Pararescueman From The 24th Special Tactics Squadron (STS) - Even More Garmin The men of US Air Force Pararescue, commonly known as PJs, are the military’s elite rescue specialists, trained in emergency medicine as well as small unit tactics, diving, parachuting, and mountaineering. To maintain their qualifications, PJs have an intense training schedule, and the PJ I ran into had a picture of his young son displayed as a screensaver on his Garmin. PJs have one of the broadest mission sets in the US Military. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) I’ve worked with PJs in training and abroad. These guys are top-notch medical professionals. One of my SEAL sniper students later crossed decks and became a PJ and another crossed over and became a CCT. It didn’t surprise me in the least to see a JSOC PJ with a technical digital dive watch on his wrist. Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8 Somewhat surprisingly, the SEAL Teams aren’t currently sending frogmen to SOF Dive, but there was a representative from Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8, the parent command for SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 and 2 as well as other specialized reconnaissance units. Members of SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 float in a circle formation after surfacing from an emergency bail-out drill from a dry deck shelter during an exercise in the southern Pacific Ocean in 2012. (Photo Credit: US Navy) The support Navy First Class Diver from NSWG-8 wore his G-Shock to SOF Dive 2024. He explained that his issue watch is a Garmin but it’s a hassle removing the smartwatch when entering the classified workspaces at Group 8, so he generally prefers to wear his G-Shock. His Casio DW6900-1V served him adequately during SOF Dive 2024. As previously discussed in the W.O.E. Dispatch and our new video, G-Shock occupies a prominent position on the wrist of modern special operators, with four Casio G-Shock references earning an NSN or NATO Stock Number meaning the watches can be easily issued to US Military forces. Leaving Bottom, Surfacing, & Post Dive: Watch spotting is always fun. It’s especially fun at events like this. Garmin watches were pretty prevalent on the wrists of many of our allied SOF divers and were worn by numerous units beyond what we have listed here, including the Danish Frogman Corps or Frømandskorpset. That said, analog watches from various manufacturers are still very much out there on the wrists of serious SOF divers. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey of a SEAL Through Watch Collecting *Featured image credit: Patriot3, Inc.

Myth Or Reality? In the Intelligence and Special Operations community, a Rolex is often mentioned as a tool for escape and evasion, serving as a recognizable item of value that can be traded for a ride to the nearest border or a seat on the last plane out of a war-torn country in an emergency. But has a Rolex ever been used for this purpose or is this simply a myth, a tall tale told over beers? In our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we delve into the myths and realities of trading a Rolex for your life. The concept is simple: Should you find yourself in need of immediate help, the watch can be utilized as a form of currency that can be traded for a few hours of shelter in a basement, a ride to the nearest international border, or a seat on the next plane out of a war-torn nation. A Rolex is easier to carry and less likely to be misplaced than ounces of gold or stacks of hundred-dollar bills. This all tracks, but has it ever happened in a real operational scenario?  In this episode, we look to history, pop cultural anecdotes, and our own experiences to discover whether a Rolex has ever actually been traded for an intelligence officer or a special operator’s life. Happy Hunting, - W.O.E.

How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right)  pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.

How A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment A in Berlin, and with the Central Intelligence Agency, In this Dispatch, he shares some of his stories and the tools he used. Late October 1980 - Operation Storm Cloud (Iran II) Rehearsal I checked my watch. We were an hour into the flight, and I hoped the pilot knew where the hell we were because I had no clue. Somewhere over the panhandle of Florida at about 500’ AGL (Above Ground Level) was all I knew because it was black outside. I could see lights from small towns and occasionally the glow of some city far away to the south. We were flying a complex course, or at least the pilot was, wearing his NVGs. I had no intention of bothering him as there was no co-pilot—the port side controls had been removed from the OH-6 “Little Bird” to make room for my partner, Jon, with his collection of guns: a M-16, a M-79 grenade launcher, at least two pistols, and a bunch of ammo. In the back, there was just me and my HK21, a thousand rounds of linked 7.62, two LAWs (Light Anti-tank Weapons), and two Claymores on a rucksack frame, along with a 9mm Walther P-5 and my trusty CZ-75 as back-up. There were only three of us on board—we needed room for at least one passenger on the way out. A General Issue (GI) Hamilton similar to the one worn by the author during training for Operation Stormcloud. I looked at my Hamilton again, the glowing numbers and hands told me it had been exactly two minutes since the last time I checked. The ride was smooth. I watched the pilot, his face barely illuminated with the green light from the goggles, and imagined how tense he must be flying in formation with 11 other helicopters. I knew the others were close as I could occasionally see the sweep of their blades disturbing the air just beyond our own rotors. I was tense, but as a passenger, there’s nothing you can do but trust these guys, the best pilots in the world. This was our final, live-fire rehearsal. If we got the go-ahead, we’d soon be heading for the Middle East on a C-5A loaded with all of us and our Little Birds. The pilot came over the intercom, “Stand by. We’re going in.” Safeties came off as I quickly checked the issued Hamilton once more. It told me what I wanted to know. “On time, On target.” Task Force 158 Helos (OH-6) practicing for Operation Stormcloud in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) The helo shuddered as it flared into a hover some 50 feet above the ground. The clouds parted and our target was illuminated by the full moon. I picked out my targets, and pulled the trigger. To the right and left I saw the sky light up as orange strings of tracer fire descended from each bird in line as we settled to the ground. Operation Stormcloud had been unleashed. — I never much cared about watches growing up. It was only at the age of 16, after I had earned my civilian SCUBA diver rating, that I started considering what kind of watch I needed. The dive instructor made us understand that divers had to have a good timepiece—accurate, waterproof, and pressure-resistant instruments—to time their dives. My first dive watch was a Swiss-made Doxa, and the only way I paid for it was with an employee discount from the dive shop where I worked plus a lot of overtime. A vintage Doxa Sub 300 similar to the one worn by the author. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) I managed to lose that watch not on a dive per se but testing my bravery by jumping into the spillway of a dam. Kingsley Dam on Lake McConaughy in Nebraska was the second largest hydraulic-fill dam in the world when it was completed in 1941. When one of the Park Rangers told us the water comes out below the dam at over 100 miles per hour, I was prompted to say, “Hold my beer,” and test it by leaping in. I survived but on my third jump, the Doxa decided we would part ways and it disappeared into the tumultuous waters. I suspect it’s still down there with the catfish somewhere. The Death of a Doxa. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Moving along, I evidently either failed to learn from my experiences or I just needed more adventures. I signed up for Army Special Forces after I convinced myself that a college education wasn’t getting me anywhere. During selection and training, I continuously heard the mantra that to be truly Special Forces you had to have a Randall Knife, a star-sapphire ring, and a Rolex. But as a “Spec 4” Light Weapons Leader on my first A-Team, the only thing I could manage was the Randall Knife and that was only because my Dad gave his to me—the same one my Mom gave him before he went to Europe in 1944 to visit Adolf. So I went without the Rolex. Most of my old photographs show me without any watch at all. Members of the 39th Special Forces Detachment or “Det A” during ski training in the Alps. Then I was posted to a classified unit in Berlin, Germany. Called “Detachment A” or “Det A,” it was in reality the 39th Special Forces Detachment. We had some interesting missions back then. Urban unconventional warfare (UW) was one, which was essentially getting ready for World War III and conducting stay-behind operations in Berlin and the DDR (East Germany) much like what the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) did in the last World War. Our other mission was Counter-Terrorism (CT), which we picked up in 1975 as the U.S. European Command’s CT Force. You need to remember this was in the nascent stages of America’s war on terror, and we were developing what would become the tactics, techniques, and procedures that seem so common today. A Seiko 6105-8110 similar to the one purchased by the author after attending Special Forces Underwater Operations School. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) With access to the Post Exchange now and having completed the rather arduous Special Forces Underwater Operations School, I decided a new dive watch was in order. I considered a Rolex but it cost around $400 in the PX. So, on the recommendation of a teammate, I decided to buy a Seiko. It was a Model 6105-8110. I seem to remember it cost me around $150—still a pretty hefty sum when you’re only earning around $600 a month, with jump pay, and after taxes and buying a lot of beer downtown. But I was a sergeant and could almost afford it. I know the Rolex would have been a good investment but with my luck… well, read on. And, in retrospect, the Rolex might have attracted too much attention. Even so, my Seiko got more use ensuring I was inside the 4-minute window for an asset meeting on a dark street, making a split-second car pick-up, maybe figuring out the burn rate for a demolition fuse, or synchronizing operations when a radio couldn’t be used. Monitoring my dive time was more of a secondary role. The author preparing a steel cutting charge on the range with his Seiko on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Bob Hopkins) From time to time, Det A operators would ride on what were called “Tours” with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM). Essentially, it was a monitoring organization that kept tabs on the Warsaw Pact in East Germany while the Soviets (SOXMIS) kept tabs on us in West Germany. The Brits and the French had their own versions of the mission (BRIXMIS and MMFL, respectively). Keeping accurate time and knowing your location was paramount on what could be a dangerous mission in the enemy’s backyard. Artist’s rendering of Major Arthur D. "Nick" Nicholson, Jr, who was killed while conducting intelligence operations with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM) in the DDR. One American and one French officer were killed while on tours in the DDR, and several others were badly injured. The photo shows one of my comrades on a tour in East Germany. He was a MACV-SOG (Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group) veteran, had good taste in watches, and was incidentally also the guy who told me to buy a Seiko. I wore the watch everywhere, in training, on jumps, and on all our missions except one. In late 1979, we were put on alert for a mission that would come to be known as Operation Eagle Claw. For that mission, we were all issued olive-green Hamiltons, the watch I wore in the above rehearsal. Det A soldier on a USMLM Tour near the Polish Border wearing a Seiko 6105 and a Waltham (WCC) wrist compass. (Photo Credit: A USMLM Member) Throughout the rest of 1979 and most of 1980, our training was almost completely oriented around direct action operations—the tactics we would need to enter Iran and bring out the American hostages being held there. We were working in concert with another, perhaps more famous unit from Fort Bragg that I won’t mention here other than to say that they outnumbered us 8:1. The “other outfit” had responsibility for freeing over 50 hostages at the American Embassy in Tehran, while our smaller force was to take down the Iranian Foreign Ministry and exfiltrate three senior American diplomats being held there. Hard doesn’t describe the preparation for the mission. But it was intense and it was fun. Day and night Close Quarter Battle (CQB) training, helicopter and vehicle ops, and explosive entries. With no guardrails and an open budget, in a very short time period, our 40-some soldiers used more small-arms ammunition than the yearly allotment for the entire Berlin Brigade. The author wearing his Seiko during CQB training. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) When Eagle Claw went down on the 24th and 25th of April in 1980, only 13 members of “Det A” participated. The rest of us got to sit it out in Berlin, waiting interminably for what turned out very badly when helicopter after helicopter failed and the op was scrubbed. In the withdrawal, eight Americans died, but as a group of British soldiers said, “At least [they] had the guts to try.” For the rest of that year, we rehearsed an up-gunned version of “Eagle Claw” called “Stormcloud” but it was ultimately scrubbed just before Ronald Reagan was inaugurated. I think my GI Hamilton went back to the S-4. The author wearing his General Issue Hamilton at Elgin Air Force Base in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Diving wasn’t in the cards much after that, but I was still traveling extensively overseas. One thing I learned was that wearing an expensive watch in “Third World” countries can lead to some undesired attention, not from the authorities, but from the criminal elements. I would often swap out my “good” watch for my field watch when “going downtown.” Losing a simple Timex Expedition was preferable to losing my treasured Seiko. I went through several Expeditions because they made great gifts for admiring locals who might prove helpful at a later point in time. I failed to follow that rule just once and it was curtains for the watch. My Seiko met the end of its days in Somalia when I had the unfortunate experience of being in an Isuzu Trooper when we rolled over a Soviet anti-tank mine. I lost a good friend that day but three of us survived. When I awoke on board the USS Tripoli, I found I had also lost my Seiko. I served a while longer and then punched out with 23 years after I got married. Not too long after that, I was recruited by what we in the military euphemistically called the “Other Government Agency” or OGA. For the next 15 years, I was practicing what some call “God’s Work” doing interesting things in interesting places around the world. The author wearing his Timex Expedition in the Bush. (Photo Credit: WLN) All the while, I admired the upper-echelon watches but couldn’t commit to buying one. Instead, I relied on my Timex Expeditions, which changed as often as I gave them away. That is until one day, my wife gave me a TAG. Officially it’s a TAG Heuer Link WAT1111, and it’s special because it’s the only retirement gift I received—plus it was for my birthday. It’s my “EDC/go-to” watch, although I have a couple of stand-ins for rough duty days. The author’s TAG Heuer Link is now his go-to everyday watch. Once I retired, I moved on to different pastures; consulting a bit, delivering talks to active duty folks on everything from Cold War history to a bit of spook stuff. I still do that but I also have become an author. Now I put my love of history and adventure to good use by telling the true and almost true stories of special operators like T.E. Lawrence of Arabia (who wore an Omega Chronograph, by the way) all the way up to my comrades who participated in Operation Eagle Claw as I do in my history MISSION IRAN. My fiction, or faction as I call it, tells the stories of Special Forces operators during the Cold War and after in my novels The Snake Eater Chronicles. Timing is often critical in these tales and interesting watches come into play quite often. Senator Ted Kennedy speaks with Medal of Honor recipient and then-Major Paris Davis during a visit to Vietnam in the late 1960s. Davis was a Rolex guy. (Photo Credit: Davis Family) The last picture is an important memory for me. One day last year, I was at the National Museum of the U.S. Army with a friend and found one of the displays closed. A docent told me the museum was interviewing a recent Medal of Honor winner, Colonel Paris Davis. I decided to wait until he was finished because Davis had been my commander when I served in the 10th Special Forces Group in the mid-1970s. I wasn’t sure if he’d remember me—I had changed a bit—but as he departed the exhibit hall, I met him with a salute. I told him who I was and a smile appeared on his face as he said my nickname. He had remembered. We had a nice chat and as you can see, he knows what watch to wear. He has his Rolex while I have my TAG. The author reuniting with his commander, Medal of Honor Awardee Colonel Paris Davis, at the National Museum of the US Army. The author wears his TAG Heuer while Colonel Davis wears a Rolex GMT Master. (Photo Credit: R. Pierce Reid) Sometimes, I find myself thinking about my old time-pieces. I’ve considered finding a vintage Seiko 6150 or even a GI-issue watch to replace them, but then I realized they wouldn’t have the same meaning as my originals. The one watch I’m closest to now—and really, the only one I need—is the TAG my wife gifted me. A couple of the author's books, some mementos from his service, and his TAG Heuer watch. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) About The Author: James Stejskal is a uniquely qualified novelist and historian backed by 35 years of service with US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency. He is the author of Special Forces Berlin: Clandestine Cold War Operations of the US Army's Elite, 1956-1990 and Masters of Mayhem: Lawrence of Arabia and the British Military Mission to the Hejaz. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting the Record Straight *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

How A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most forces have understandably transitioned to digital tool watches, arguably a more effective tool for modern warfare. That said, they do exist and one of the most interesting and least understood is the Elliot Brown Holton Professional. The Holton was designed from the ground up in partnership with and is currently issued to the British Special Boat Service (SBS), the United Kingdom’s “tier one” maritime special operations force unit, a loose equivalent to SEAL Team Six. Many of the stories we tell revolve around “unit watches” or private purchases used during an individual operator's career. This is the story of a purpose-built tool watch designed to satisfy a specific operational requirement. But it is also the story of the SBS’s culture and the role watches play. When newly badged operators arrive at Poole, the headquarters of the British Special Boat Service, they receive a green beret with the SBS insignia, a belt, a hardcover book on the history of their unit, and the standard-issue Elliot Brown Holton Professional. These are just things but are also intended to represent the accomplishment of each individual operator and honor the legacy of those who came before. The watch is a tool and the latest timepiece issued to the storied unit. Elliot Brown & The Holton Professional In the coastal city of Poole, England, we find Elliot Brown, a nascent brand producing a range of mostly tool watches including the Holton Professional. Despite the potentially massive marketing upside in celebrating the relationship between the Holton and the SBS, Elliot Brown doesn’t mention “The Service” by name, instead adopting the quiet professional approach of the operators who wear the Holton in performing their duties. In this Dispatch, we’ll shine a light on Elliot Brown and tell the story behind the development of the Holton Professional. RM Poole, the home base for the SBS, is conveniently located near the boatyard Elliot Brown calls home. Far from its current military associations, Elliot Brown was founded in 2013 as the brainchild of Ian Elliot and Alex Brown. At its outset, the brand’s goal was to produce durable, relatively inexpensive watches designed around the founders’ collective experience in outdoor sports, watch enthusiasm, and engineering. Location was important as well. Headquartered in a working boat yard near Poole Harbour on England’s south coast, Elliot Brown neighbors RM Poole, the home of the Special Boat Service. Among the world’s most elite maritime SpecOps units, the SBS also has an impressive history when it comes to horology. A Brief History Of The Special Boat Service & Watches Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough of the British SBS wearing an issued Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS during the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison on 27 November 2001. (Photo Credit: First Casualty, Toby Harnden) With roots dating back to the Second World War including no shortage of heroic assaults on Axis shipping by way of specialized folding canoes called “folbots”, today’s SBS is a modern maritime assault force specializing in counterterrorism. Trained in diving, small boats, reconnaissance, parachuting, small unit tactics, explosives, and sabotage, the SBS serves as the Ministry of Defense’s equivalent to SEAL Team Six. For the watch enthusiast, the SBS is also closely linked to some of history’s most legendary dive watches including the Rolex Military Submariner or MilSub which was issued to British forces including the SBS starting in 1971. In 1980, CWC took over, first with an automatic and then quartz versions of its Royal Navy Diver, a far less expensive option compared to the Rolex Submariners that had a nasty habit of going “missing”. The Special Boat Service has impressive horological associations, having used the Rolex MilSub in the 1970s and CWC models including the SBS in the decades to follow. Photo Credit: Bonhams (Rolex) and James Rupley (CWC) In 1987, supposedly stemming from a special request from the Special Boat Service, CWC introduced its SBS, a blacked-out version of the RN Diver to reduce reflections for nighttime and maritime operations. CWC’s SBS is still issued to certain specialist diving units within the Ministry of Defense and worn by members of the Special Boat Service, however many have now transitioned to the standard issue Elliot Brown. A New British Watch Brand & One Of The World’s Premier Special Forces Units Former SBS operator and celebrated mountaineer Nims Purja MBE wearing a digital tool watch during training operations. (Photo Credit: Nirmal Purja MBE) When Elliot Brown launched in 2013 at the London Watch Show, the brand’s earliest models were capable but provided more of a civilian aesthetic. At the time, Special Boat Service operators wore a variety of digital and analog watches including CWC, early Suunto GPS watches, and the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock. Despite the utility offered by Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.), SBS regulations specifically state an analog dive watch must be worn for all diving operations, with a diving supervisor individually checking each operator’s watch before they can enter the water. Of note, the analog watches are worn in combination with a dive computer. The SBSA Canford inspired the development of the Holton Professional. (Photo Credit: Elliot Brown) After creating a special version of its Canford model to raise funds for the Special Boat Service Association (SBSA), several active members of the unit began using the commemorative watch on actual operations. Wondering what might be possible with a watch designed from the ground up for the operators, a development process officially began for the watch that would become the Holton Professional in 2015. Specifically, the unit requested a watch that was indestructible and visible at night and in low light conditions underwater, with a rotating bezel that could easily be operated with all manner of gloved hands. Founders Alex and Ian worked closely with the unit, producing multiple rounds of prototypes that were each individually tested by various SBS squadrons. Specifically, the brand engineered a recessed four-o’clock crown with three seals, single-sided screw lug bars for ease of use and durability, and a novel bezel edge with an almost hobnail-like texture that was intended to be rotated with the palm of a gloved hand. The bezel insert was filled with luminescent material and made from hardened steel as opposed to aluminum on the CWC SBS, with Super-LumiNova also being utilized across the dial and hands. Tritium tubes were also considered but ultimately ruled out because they light up under night vision whereas printed luminescent material does not. Delivered to the unit on a fitted rubber strap, the watches also included a traditional nylon “Zulu” strap intended to work with the thick drysuits utilized by the divers in cooler waters. The dial design was straightforward and incorporated “sword” hands, a familiar trait from other British military dive watches. At 6 o’clock on the dial is a “broad arrow,” denoting it as official property of the MOD as a military-issued watch. Civilian versions, which are almost identical to issued examples, also have the broad arrow insignia. An Elliot Brown Holton Professional alongside a Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Once the operators were happy with the design, the challenge of guiding the new watches through official channels into the hands of the operators began in earnest. First came the NSN or Nato Stock Number, issued to items in compliance with specific regulations for particular pieces of equipment including dive watches. Obtaining an NSN can be daunting, but the presence of an NSN doesn’t necessarily mean an item is officially issued but rather simply that it could be issued. For the Ministry of Defense, an item must be obtained by a unit through an approved intermediary supplier rather than the brand, just as CWC is supplied to the MoD through a supplier called Silvermans. With multiple layers of bureaucracy managed, the initial batch of the Holton Professional was delivered to the SBS in late 2017, first to Sabre Squadrons tasked with counterterrorism and then to other units in turn. While they are otherwise identical to civilian versions of the Holton, issued examples have a unique crown. Elliot Brown’s “Unit Watch” Program An Elliot Brown “unit watch” produced for a particular Special Air Service (SAS) squadron. (Photo Credit: Former SAS Melvyn Downes) In addition to the Holton Professional’s official connection to the SBS, Elliot Brown has also become a supplier of commemorative “unit watches” for various other military and civilian organizations including the SAS (pictured above), UK Counter Terrorism Police, the Royal Navy Submarine Service, and others. Rather than being issued and paid for with government funds, these watches are modified versions of existing designs within the brand’s catalog that are available for private purchase for vetted members of the organization. We have covered other brands known for producing “unit watches” including Tudor, OMEGA, Breitling, Bremont, and Christopher Ward, but it’s always nice to see a smaller brand getting into the space, especially with a price point that presents a less daunting boundary compared to traditional luxury brands. The Military-Issue Analog Dive Watch - Last Of A Dying Breed As we’ve established in many instances on the Dispatch, there is an established community within Intelligence, NatSec, and SpecOps with a passion for horology. That said, instances where government organizations deem it appropriate to spend taxpayer dollars on analog watches are becoming fewer and farther between, increasingly usurped by cheaper, more feature-rich digital options. Still, holdouts including Elliot Brown’s active issue to the Special Boat Service and Marathon’s use by various US SpecOps units prove the analog dive watch remains relevant today. The story of the Holton, a Tier One unit approaching a smaller watch brand with a list of requests that ends up becoming an issued watch, is rare, but the utility behind wearing watches for their intended purpose sentiment isn’t. The “Use Your Tools” ethos is alive and well. Typically, in an article like this one, we’d share “action shots” of members of the unit in question wearing the watches in question. However, in stark contrast to many US SpecOps units, the SBS remains incredibly secretive, meaning such photographs are essentially nonexistent. With that in mind, with operational security in mind, we’ve used either photos released by former members of the unit who are now in the public eye or photographs taken with unit members and approved for wider distribution. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch

Putting One Of The Last Real Military Dive Watches To The Test In the watch world, clout is king. For brands without centuries of history to lean on, sales and marketing professionals are left in a mad scramble for authenticity and heritage, searching for a story that makes their watches more than the sum of their parts. These efforts become particularly transparent when those outside our community attempt to influence those within, claiming their mechanical luxury watches are the preferred option for divers, SpecOps, or intelligence professionals. The Marathon SAR was unveiled in 2001. (Photo Credit: Worn and Wound) In reality, Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) are most often the instrument of choice, but there is at least one analog tool watch still issued to the US Military in 2024: Marathon Watch. This isn’t the first time we’ve covered Marathon, a supplier to the US and Canadian governments since the Second World War. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll concentrate on the Search and Rescue (SAR) collection in particular, sharing its bizarre history and modern military associations before testing the watches on a dive on the California coast. It’s also a family of watches with which I have a significant history, having used both the quartz and automatic variants while serving the US Coast Guard and as a commercial diver. Beyond the utility, the Marathon SAR also has one of the more unusual origin stories in modern watchmaking. Watch Nerds Designing A Military Tool Watch For Operators RCAF SAR Techs made the initial request that led to the Marathon SAR Collection. (Photo Credit: Canadian Armed Forces) In 2000, Marathon Watch was approached by the Canadian Armed Forces (CAF) with a request for a purpose-built dive watch capable of handling the wide range of environments encountered by Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) Search and Rescue Technicians or SAR Techs. Trained in “...Arctic rescue, parachuting, diving, mountain climbing, and helicopter rescue”, the elite community of around 150 SAR Techs had a few specific requests including luminescent indices for legibility in all conditions, an automatic caliber, ample water resistance, and a bezel that could be easily operated with all manner of gloves. In designing the watch, Marathon did something all but unheard of, looking to members of the watch enthusiast community for guidance. Marathon first tapped one of its military suppliers who then got in touch with the founder of the Military Watch Resource (MWR), a niche online forum dedicated to military horology. With the help of a talented machinist, the first SAR watches came together, with input being gathered at each stage of the design process from members of the MWR forum who also coined the SAR name. The original Marathon SAR of 2001 utilized printed luminescent indices while being inspired by several great historical dive watches. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) With a 39mm case silhouette generally inspired by the Rolex Submariner, a dial format resembling the Benrus Type I, a distinctive knurled crown, and an overhanging 41mm bezel reminiscent of a rare East German military diver’s watch from a brand called Ruhla, Marathon delivered the first orders of its new SAR watch in late 2001. Initially, the Marathon SAR was only available through official supply channels and in limited numbers, with a few select enthusiasts getting their hands on rare contract overrun pieces. Issued not only to SAR Techs but also Clearance Divers and other amphibious members of the Canadian Forces since 2001, an important design change to a tritium gas tube illuminated dial around 2005 answered a specific request from the US Military. While they are not widely issued, the GSAR or Government Search and Rescue as it is now known, and its quartz equivalent the TSAR or Tritium Search and Rescue, can both be ordered by military procurement specialists in the United States through the GSA catalog — a sort of military and government Amazon — using unit-allocated funds. USAF Pararescuemen wearing the Marathon GSAR while conducting dive training in 2019. (Photo Credit: DVIDS)  Issued Marathon watches are not ubiquitous by any means, but it does happen. According to Marathon’s Government Contracting Officer, US Navy EOD, US Air Force Pararescue, and US Army Special Forces have all recently placed orders for watches from the SAR family. Our previous look at Marathon detailed several additional issued examples of the GSAR and TSAR. I distinctly remember seeing issued Marathon watches on the wrists of USCG Divers and select Aviators in my Coast Guard days. Over the years, Marathon has adjusted its approach to include a broader offering of watches intended for the civilian market while still doing the vast majority of its business for government contracts. Diving With The Modern Marathon SAR Collection (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) The SAR collection has grown by leaps and bounds since its humble beginnings in the early 2000s. There are three case sizes (36mm, 41mm, and 46mm), quartz and automatic options, an automatic chronograph, and several dial colors and configurations. Marathon has leaned into the rise of watch enthusiasm but without losing the core direction. To obtain feedback from end-users and get closer to the enthusiast community, Marathon invited a few interesting individuals from the military and diving communities for a dive preceding Windup San Francisco, an enthusiast-oriented event. In 55-degree water, you wear as much rubber as you can. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) Preparing for a shore dive in water around 55°F/13°C, most of us donned thick 7mm wetsuits with a few ziploc bag enthusiasts opting for drysuits. Once suited up, we had our pick from a slew of Marathon SAR watches including the white Arctic dial GSAR, a JDD or Jumbo Day/Date, and an Anthracite GSAR. I used an original SAR from the printed MaraGlo dial days. Discontinued in 2006, the OG Marathon SAR is, according to a source within the company, poised for a triumphant return later this year bolstered by some subtle updates. A few of us needed to swap over to nylon straps to get our watches over our variety of thick exposure suits, but we were soon ready to go. Petty Officer Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens with a Marathon Arctic GSAR. (Photo Credit: Worn & Wound) My buddy for the dive was Navy Diver Second Class (ND2) Brock Stevens, a veteran of over four years of ships husbandry on carriers and nuclear submarines in Norfolk, Virginia. Typically diving with a Kirby Morgan helmet as opposed to open circuit scuba, Brock is a guy with well over a thousand dives and is at home in the water. After the walk from the parking lot to the beach with all of our gear, we put on our fins and waded into deeper water. California diving can be hit-and-miss. In Monterey, being cold is all but assured, but the visibility varies wildly from as much as fifty feet or more on the best days to the three to five feet we had for our dive. That said, as you’d expect, everyone’s Marathon watch worked as intended, each of us timing the dive with our rotating bezels which remained legible even in murkier conditions. I had a diving computer on my other wrist, but given our max depth of around 40 feet, we would run out of gas long before any decompression-related concerns, and I could have easily left it on the beach. The visibility left something to be desired. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) After descending, we finned along a submerged outfall pipe covered in growth with the odd clump of kelp running lazily from the sea bed to the surface. Given the visibility, I kept Brock just within the limits of my range of vision. Reaching the end of the pipe, we set out for a field of metridiums, an out-of-this-world underwater forest of what looked like giant cauliflower stalks, then returned to the pipe for a leisurely swim back toward the shore. A dive like this goes nowhere near the limits of these watches, which are designed for and capable of much harder use. Brock has been using his Marathon while working on submarines, and it seems to be holding up. Still, it’s nice to see a brand invite a bunch of actual divers to experience their tools in their element. Given the SAR collections’s history, we know Marathon is no stranger to taking feedback from the enthusiast community, with a slew of recent releases to support the trend. When we met with the brand after the dive, they seemed genuinely interested in our feedback, which is seldom the case with watch brands.  Brock Stevens wearing his Marathon GSAR while working as a US Navy Diver. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) My positive experiences with the watches aside, I would argue the modern GSAR isn’t for everyone. It’s not refined or elegant, it's a tool. Given the tall bezel, it fits poorly under shirt cuffs. But the GSAR isn’t about that. It’s a watch that was designed as a tool. While it’s true most people don’t use dive watches as the tools they once were, some still do. The entire concept of being “mil-spec” or military issue adds credibility to any piece of equipment and in the arena of dive watches in particular, Marathon’s legitimacy as a diving tool is well deserved.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing Submersible Wrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic. Thanks again to Brock Stevens for providing several of the images in this Dispatch. To learn more about Brock, check out @deepsea.edc on Instagram. READ NEXT: Watches and Commercial Espionage: Waltham Watch Company

Last week, the US Army’s 4th Psychological Operations (PSYOP) Group released Ghosts In The Machine 2, the second installment in a series of highly stylized recruiting videos supporting one of the Army’s more unusual units.

The Historic Link Between The US Space Program, Special Operations Forces, & Timepieces In 2020, some 45 years had passed since a crewed US spacecraft splashed down at sea. On 2 August, NASA astronauts Douglas Hurley and Robert Behnken experienced no less than four g’s as they hurtled toward the Earth in Elon Musk’s SpaceX Crew Dragon Endeavour. The mission, Crew Demo-2, marked historic firsts including the first crewed commercial space flight as well as the first two-person orbital space flight launched from the United States since STS-4 in 1982. Slowed by four massive parachutes, Demo-2’s Endeavour capsule splashed down in the Gulf of Mexico, just off the coast of Pensacola, Florida, at 2:48 pm. But what then? SpaceX’s Crew Demo-2, the first crewed private space flight, is towed to a support vessel after recovery at sea in 2020. (Photo Credit: NASA) The model of launch, flight, reentry, splashdown in the ocean, and recovery, was established during the earliest days of manned space flight. Considerably safer than returning to earth on land, NASA has traditionally favored a waterborne splashdown for its manned space flights, including the storied Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo missions as well as more recent efforts including Artemis. However, things can and have gone wrong. Assuming the capsule meets the sea as intended, it can still sink or capsize, presenting a perilous situation for any astronauts inside.  One area of space travel that goes mostly unexplored by enthusiast media is the long-standing relationship between select SpecOps units and the Space Program. Starting with US Navy Underwater Demolition Teams and Air Force Pararescue Teams in the 1960s and carrying on through modern SpaceX, Boeing, and Artemis missions, the challenging tasks of astronaut recovery and/or rescue continue to be quietly carried out with the help of specialized units from the US Department of Defense. Given the timing, early astronaut recovery teams wore some of history’s most iconic tool watches with names like the Submariner and Sea Wolf on the dial. Today, a select few still choose to wear mechanical watches for the challenging task of plucking spacemen from the ocean. Former US Air Force Pararescuemen (PJ) RJ Casey trains with NASA astronaut Doug Hurley, USMC, and the SpaceX Astronaut Rescue and Recovery Team. (Photo Credit: NASA Astronaut Anil Menon) To understand how SOF supports astronaut recovery today, we spoke with RJ Casey, who contracts as an astronaut rescue and recovery team leader at SpaceX. RJ’s history, which is deserving of a separate Dispatch, starts in Special Forces (SF) where he served as an SF Medical Sergeant and Detachment Officer (18D and 18A, respectively) assigned to 2/19th SFG in the West Virginia Army National Guard. A qualified Combat Diver, RJ picked up a Rolex Submariner in the early 2000s that he still wears today. A legendary watch in special operations, the Submariner serves as a nod to Special Forces units of the past, other more shadowy government agencies, and especially their maritime communities. RJ later joined the US Air Force’s Pararescue community where he currently serves as a reserve Combat Rescue Officer when he isn’t training and recovering astronauts at his civilian job. Today, RJ primarily wears his Bremont S502 Jet, a watch from the brand’s Military and Special Projects Division that he has used for all of his astronaut operations and training evolutions to date. RJ Casey assists NASA Astronaut Nicole Mann, USMC, and Crew-5 Commander, out of SpaceX’s Dragon capsule, pictured with his Bremont S502 Jet military project watch. (Photo Credit: NASA) While space flight has come a long way, having elite rescue specialists like RJ nearby is still a requirement for manned space missions today. SpaceX and NASA’s modern capsule recovery efforts have gone largely without incident, but the involvement of units from the US Navy and Air Force as an additional layer of contingency for these missions is, like so many other lessons in space exploration, the result of a near miss that almost cost the United States the life of an astronaut. How A Near Miss Galvanized A Historic Relationship In 1961, Mercury-Redstone 4 was NASA’s second manned space flight, lasting only fifteen minutes and thirty-seven seconds. Astronaut Gus Grissom, a legendary member of the original Mercury Seven, would have been forgiven for thinking the hard work was behind him. After a successful trip into sub-orbit, the second American in space descended towards the Earth. Liberty Bell 7’s parachutes deployed as intended, and the capsule splashed down approximately 300 miles from its launch location in Cape Canaveral, Florida. Job done. Or so it seemed. Astronaut Gus Grissom, the second American in space. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) As Marine helicopters from the awaiting USS Randolph approached, Liberty Bell 7’s explosive hatch blew off of the capsule, almost immediately filling the spacecraft with water. A veteran of 100 combat missions in Korea, Grissom acted quickly, leaping from the open hatch to escape the sinking capsule but forgetting to close a valve on his space suit. Mistakenly thinking the astronaut was relatively safe, the crew of the primary recovery helicopter turned its attention to the rapidly sinking spacecraft. Grissom, whose suit was quickly flooded, waved and shouted as he struggled to keep his head above water. At the time, NASA procedures did not call for someone in a boat or in the water to assist with the astronaut’s egress from the capsule. Unfortunate for NASA, but lucky for Grissom, Liberty Bell 7 could not be saved. As the primary recovery helicopter battled with the weight of the sunken capsule, ultimately electing to cut it loose to the depths, the secondary helicopter swooped in to recover one very tired astronaut. One mechanical misstep and NASA very nearly lost its second man in space. After his harrowing ordeal, Grissom is lifted to safety by a Marine helicopter. (Photo Credit: National Air And Space Museum) NASA & The Frogmen Of The Underwater Demolition Teams While NASA already had ties to DOD for assistance in astronaut recovery or rescue, Grissom’s near miss illustrated the necessity of having trained personnel in the water at the splashdown location in the event of a similar mishap. Lacking such personnel, NASA looked to the US Navy’s Underwater Demolition Teams, composed of “frogmen” with extensive experience in challenging open ocean conditions. Tracing their origins to nascent maritime special operations units established during World War II, the UDTs received specialized training in diving, ordnance disposal, beach clearance, and hydrographic reconnaissance, serving as the predecessor to the SEAL Teams which were established in 1962. A Navy frogman leaps from a recovery helicopter into the water to assist in the Gemini-12 recovery operations in 1966. (Photo Credit: NASA) From Mercury 6 onwards, recovery teams composed of specially selected members of various UDTs around the country were required on location to assist with astronaut and capsule recovery operations from the water. Along with a wide variety of specialized equipment more directly related to the mission, the frogmen used the iconic tool dive watches of the day including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and others. Rather than timing dives, the operators utilized these now legendary watches to remain synchronized with the broader multi-agency recovery operation. Members of UDT 13 served as the recovery team for Apollo 12. The Tudor Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf can be seen on some of the frogmen. (Photo Credit: Navy Helicopter Association Historical Society) In the majority of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo flights, the mission of the UDT recovery teams was relatively straightforward and carefully outlined in this incredible NASA training film from the Mercury Program. After jumping into the sea from a recovery helicopter, the UDT men were tasked with making contact with the capsule before unfolding and deploying an inflatable auxiliary flotation collar intended to keep the capsule upright and high enough in the water. If the astronaut or astronauts inside elected to leave the capsule before being lifted and transferred to an awaiting support ship, typically an aircraft carrier, the UDT swimmers assisted with the exit and transfer into the helicopter’s personnel recovery sling or basket. Once the inhabitants were safe, the frogmen were then charged with assisting the helicopter in lifting the capsule and any other equipment onto the deck of the nearby carrier. Frogmen stand on the auxiliary flotation collar during recovery operations for Apollo 15 (Photo Credit: NASA) For the UDT men of the era, working with NASA to recover astronauts was, besides being extremely cool, relatively light work compared to their regular and often deadly deployments to the Vietnam War. A rarity for those within the world of SpecOps, many of the exploits of the UDT recovery teams were also broadcast live on radio and television, meaning hundreds of millions of people witnessed the typically unseen UDT’s hard work assisting in astronaut recovery, bolstering the legend that has, for better or worse, made today’s SEALs a pop culture phenomenon. Alan Buehler, a member of UDT 11, assisted with the recovery of Apollo 15 & 17. On his wrist, an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop. (Photo Credit: Alan Buehler) Getting back to watches, there are documented exceptions including the aforementioned Sea Wolf from Zodiac and the intriguing use of an OMEGA Geneve Chronostop, but in the majority of archival films and photography from these missions, UDT men are seen wearing Tudor Submariners (Reference 7928) the issue watch for Navy divers and SpecOps at the time.  WOE’s personal Tudor Submariner 7928, one of history’s most legendary military dive watches. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Eventually earning its own NSN or NATO Stock Number in 1978 (6645-01-068-1088), the Tudor Submariner saw extensive and well-documented service in Vietnam, during astronaut recovery and rescue operations, and even with other specialized units outside of the US Navy. It appears the phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new. Bob Coggin of UDT 12 leans against the Apollo 8 Capsule with a Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 on the wrist. (Photo Credit: NASA) US Air Force PJs & Astronaut Recovery NASA augmented its UDT recovery force with US Air Force Pararescuemen or PJs, combat search and rescue specialists who became legendary for their efforts in saving downed pilots in Vietnam. In addition to emergency medicine, technical rescue, parachuting, mountaineering, small unit tactics, and more, PJs were also trained in diving and ocean swimming, making them another excellent option for spacecraft recovery. In essence, the UDT was the recovery team in the event everything went as planned where the PJs served as the global rescue element in case of an emergency that caused a space flight to land somewhere other than on the X. US Air Force Pararescuemen before and after recovering Gemini VIII. In both images, the PJ on the right is wearing a USAF-issued Tudor Submariner 7928. (Photo Credit: NASA) And that is exactly what happened in 1966 when Gemini VIII entered a potentially deadly spiral in Earth’s orbit. Astronauts David Scott and some guy named Neil Armstrong managed to correct the spin, but the unplanned fuel expenditure meant the mission had to be scrapped. Given the spontaneous nature of the recovery and unplanned splashdown location, the job went to three on-duty US Air Force Pararescuemen out of Okinawa: Larry Huyett, Eldridge Neal, and Glenn Moore. In photos taken both before and after the operation, one of the PJs is seen wearing yet another Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928, a watch that was also commonly issued to PJs during the era. LTJG David R. Kohler of the Apollo-Soyuz Recovery Team with a Tudor Submariner on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Navy SEAL Museum) Jumping ahead, UDT Frogmen were in the water for the recovery of the Apollo-Soyuz Test Flight in 1975, the first manned space flight carried out jointly between the United States and the Soviet Union. Soon after, the United States shifted its focus to the Space Shuttle Program. For the first time, a spacecraft could re-enter Earth’s atmosphere, fly to its destination, and land like a traditional aircraft, obviating the need for water landings and recovery teams from the SpecOps community, at least for the next few decades. Commercial Space Travel Pararescuemen assigned to the 38th Rescue Squadron conduct water jumps in support of astronaut rescue operations for SpaceX in 2021. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The rise of privatized commercial space travel has changed the picture for DOD’s involvement in astronaut recovery and rescue operations. For private space flights, the companies themselves are responsible for their recovery operations. For anything NASA-related and/or taxpayer-funded including the upcoming Artemis missions, the US Navy again serves as the primary recovery force, typically utilizing a blend of Navy Divers, SAR medics, and EOD Technicians. For anything requiring rescue, again more so in the event of an emergency, US Air Force Pararescue Teams also receive specialized training for capsule operations and are strategically located around the globe. Members of the 308th Rescue Squadron (RQS) “Guardian Angels” train with the Department of Defense's Human Space Flight Support Office, the only full-time organization that coordinates and trains personnel to support human spaceflight contingencies. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) Just as space flight has advanced technologically in leaps and bounds, watches have also progressed, much to the chagrin of die-hard mechanical timekeeping enthusiasts. Feature-rich digital watches from brands like G-Shock and Garmin now account for the majority of wrists in these specialized military communities. That said, there are plenty of watch enthusiasts in the military, the intelligence community, among astronauts, and even within the Pararescue community associated with SpaceX as we saw with RJ Casey. RJ Casey, pictured with his Rolex Submariner, and Louie Haus diving with the 308 RQS. (Photo Credit: PJ Ricky Dunn) While it’s difficult to compare the Space Program of the 1960s to today, the importance of safeguarding those who have recently returned to Earth remains all but unchanged. Highly skilled amphibious operators still stand at the ready to jump into the sea to assist astronauts in peril. Despite being overshadowed by sexier aspects of space travel that tend to garner the limelight, these complex, multifaceted recovery operations are a key component of what has made and continues to make space exploration possible. When men or women go into the sea to recover astronauts, whether it’s a Tudor Submariner or Zodiac Sea Wolf of old or a modern G-Shock, Garmin, or Bremont, the importance of a precision watch remains a critical instrument for human space flight rescue and recovery teams. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: An Exploration of “Unit Watches” from the Special Operations Community: Tudor To learn more about RJ Casey, check out his Instagram. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. Now a full-time member of the W.O.E. Team, Ben splits his time between writing and product development at W.O.E. and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers as well as the life aquatic.

An Open Letter to Panerai, From Watches of Espionage In 2022, Panerai released the limited-edition “Navy SEALs collection” available intended for purchase by the public, and not exclusively Navy SEALs.  The watches are operator-chic , complete with a Navy SEAL Trident on the dial or caseback and a “Time to Target countdown” feature. The prices range from $10,000 - $60,000, the high-end models including an invitation to a multi-day Special Operations experience (Xperience) which, according to one journalist, means the “buyer of the watch joins retired Navy SEALs on an immersive adventure that will include a rigorous training and rescue mission.” (Photo Credit: Panerai) The releases continued through 2023 and into 2024, with the latest Xperience occurring last week in Florida.  As an influential voice in the NatSec watch community, we feel compelled to comment on the matter.  To be clear, our intentions are pure. We’re apolitical and see watches as a vessel to look at the larger world of NatSec, Military, and Intelligence. We want Panerai and all watch brands to succeed and provide a service to our community and the broader public.  But we think Panerai needs a course correction when it pertains to this watch and this “Xperience.”  -- Dear Panerai, I first learned of Officine Panerai in the 2010s, sitting in a third world capital having drinks with a SEAL colleague.  My friend explained that Panerai had a strong following in Naval Special Warfare (NSW) due to the brand's lineage that can be traced to the Italian Frogmen of WWII.  Like many others, he bought his first Panerai to commemorate a deployment and the Luminor Marina was a nod to those who came before him.  In our community, history is everything. Tradition matters.  I was immediately intrigued.  The signature case shape appealed to my alpha-driven tastes and the history of the brand appealed to me.  Over the next year, I visited boutiques in London, Istanbul, and Johannesburg to try on some Panerais before ultimately making a purchase: a tobacco dial titanium Luminor Marina 8 Days PAM 00564.  I wore it throughout the next overseas tour as a CIA case officer, including during the chaotic events of a coup d'etat. While my taste in watches has shifted over time, I will never sell that watch and it’s not an understatement to say your brand has had a strong influence on my passion for timepieces. U.S. Navy SEAL on training exercise (U.S. Army  by Staff Sgt. Jacob Dunlap) Heritage Matters Several watch blogs have called into question Panerai’s claimed lineage and marketing narrative and even resorted to personal attacks on your leadership, but this discourse does not specifically interest us.  The fact is, Panerai of today does have a strong customer base in Naval Special Warfare (NSW) regardless of exactly how it was formed.  I have personally seen your timepieces on the wrists of operators overseas, at Chick’s Oyster Bar in Virginia Beach, and in SCIFs in Northern Virginia.  No matter exactly how it happened, the connection between Panerai and the SpecOps community is real.  That said, we think that your latest iteration of the “Navy SEAL” watches, and specifically the use of the SEAL Trident - an eagle clutching a U.S. Navy anchor, trident, and flintlock-style pistol - for the commercial market is a little too much- likely a well-intentioned marketing scheme gone awry. (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) To be clear, I do not speak for the NSW community.  I haven’t earned the Trident myself, which is why I would never wear it on a watch or t-shirt.  I have spoken with over a dozen active and former “Team Guys” and opinions vary from disgust to admiration- the majority rolling their eyes, having bigger things to worry about.  We can assume that you have support from some in the NSW leadership and have gone through the legal requirements to license the Trident.  Further, we understand that a (unspecified) portion of the proceeds benefit the National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum, which is fantastic.  But just because you can put the Trident on a commercially available watch, doesn’t mean you should. A Panerai purchased by SEAL Team 3 member and sold on the secondary market. (Photo Credit: Lunaroyster) The Best Things (Watches) are Earned Not Bought: The Navy SEAL Trident is earned by those who qualify for the Navy Special Warfare Operator (SO) rating after completing the arduous selection process: the Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) and SEAL Qualification Training (SQT).  The “Budweiser” is a strong source of pride and reminder of service, sacrifice, and far too many lost brothers.  Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) (Official Navy/DOD Photo)   We understand that a limited number of the watches are reserved for active and retired Navy SEALS at a steeply discounted price (~60% off retail) and an (unspecified) portion of the proceeds are donated to the National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum and at least one watch was auctioned for charity.  Well done.  BUD/S Phase 2 training (Official Navy/DOD Photo) Discretion is the Way There is nothing wrong with SEALs wearing a Trident on their watch and we are aware of several unit-specific watches (by Tudor and others) that incorporate the Trident into the design.  I know several SEALs purchased your Panerai and treasure the watch.  It’s the civilian versions that give me pause.  A simple solution is to reserve the Trident-laden watches for the SEALs and sell a separate “military-inspired” version without the Trident or “Navy SEALs'' on the dial.  Special Operations Experience (Xperience) (Photo Credit: Panerai Central) It’s tempting to criticize the “Navy SEAL Xperience” that comes with the $60,000+ PAM01402, and yes, it's borderline corny.  That said, anything that pushes people to better understand the commitment and sacrifice our SEALs make on our behalf is a good thing.  We understand you employ former SEALs to guide participants through this crucible and we are confident that they provide an experience that exceeds expectations.   (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) Assume Noble Intent - never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by naivety. To be clear, I actually don’t think this is a cash grab and I believe the “SEAL Watch” concept is likely a well-intended but naively-crafted strategy.  When it comes to the military and the broader NatSec community, watch brands are naive. They simply do not know the complexities of the community.   SpecOps personnel generally don’t seek out jobs in the marketing departments of luxury watch companies.  That said, many other watch brands get it right and there is a template for success.  Look at the special projects programs of Tudor, Omega, Bremont and your sister company IWC (also owned by Richemont) and you will find successful strategies that respectfully honor our community.   HAWKEYE Tudor Pelagos “Unit Watch” - available only to member of the Secret Service Counter Assault Team  Solution  You don’t highlight a problem without presenting a solution. The key to any successful marketing initiative is authenticity.  -Focus on Unit Watches - A unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization and can only be purchased by current or former members.  Most brands offer these at a discount.  While initially secret, inevitably pictures leak out, which is fantastic publicity that drives sales and promotes brand loyalty on the civilian side, while still remaining exclusive to the military side.  As a recent example, Omega quietly released a special Seamaster Diver 300M (with the Trident discreetly engraved on the caseback) that is available to current and former Team Guys.  There was no press release; however, they ultimately found their way onto social media, creating a positive return for marketing for the brand.  It’s a sound business decision and a win-win for everyone. Most importantly, it’s authentic. -Be transparent about donations:  Last year our small company, Watches of Espionage, donated $24,800 to Third Option Foundation.  How much did Panerai donate to NSW museums and charities as a result of sales? According to bar napkin math, if Panerai sold all of the watches in 2023, you would have generated over $30 million in revenue. How much was given to the museum or NSF?  -Be transparent about US Navy lineage:  According to a September 2022 Forbes article, “Panerai’s historic team verified the legitimacy of an order and approval dating back to 1953 for Panerai watches and diving instruments for the US Navy.”  This is a fascinating development that seems to be glossed over.  What are the details of this order and for “watches and instruments”?  Is there official documentation available? Many from the watch and NatSec community would find this fascinating. (Photo Credit: Navy SEAL Museum) -Listen to the SEALs:  Again, you have a real customer base in the NSW community.  Reach out to them, ask for their input and feedback and incorporate this into the design.  Anecdotally, I know several SEALs expressed concern about the Trident on the dial and the overall design of the watch.  Listening to the intended end user is crucial for product development. -Lastly, keep the Trident and “Navy SEALs” off commercially available watches.  It’s really that simple. (Photo Credit: Jake Witkin, aBlogtoWatch) Again, this is not meant to be a rabble rousing post–it’s quite the contrary; we want to see Panerai flourish and sell watches to the Intelligence and SpecOps community for generations to come.  With a slight azimuth adjustment we think you can get back on course.  If someone from the NSW community would like to respond to this we would be more than happy to run that article.   We all know SEALs love to write. Sincerely, -W.O.E. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Forget Bond, A Real CIA Spy Seiko Watch

Allied Prisoners of War and Rolex Watch Co., a story of hope in the midst of a grim world conflict. As the war between Axis and Allied forces raged on, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of the watch company named Montres Rolex SA, had a brilliant notion: Why not let these prisoners ‘purchase’ a new timepiece on the proviso

Round Two of honoring the age-old tradition of matching watches up with heavy-hitting machinery. We’ve done it once before–paired watches with military aircraft–and now we’re doing it again. Except this time, we’re trading wings and rotors for wheels and tracks. These watch pairings explore the world of military vehicles.  There’s no hard and fast rule that we use to come up with the pairings–the goal is to explore the world of watches–and military vehicles–in a way that’s engaging and offers some insight into both worlds. Part of this exercise is to isolate characteristics of a watch or vehicle that make it unique. It forces us to look at a watch and contextualize it using its physical character and attributes, and beyond that, the reputation of the watch that the community has created for it, or sometimes the brand themselves. Many of you will have experience with some of these vehicles–and watches– and you might even have a specific pairing you’ve found works. We’d love to hear about them.  To preempt any comments, yes, the Casio G-Shock could be paired with any and all of these vehicles, but that would be a pretty boring article. Let’s shift into low gear and roll right into it.  The Vehicle: The 464 G-Class Utility Truck Credit: Mercedes-Benz  The G-Wagon from Mercedes-Benz has been hijacked by the likes of the Kardashians and finance bros, but the roots of the truck couldn’t be further away from that specific culture. Contrary to the current reputation of the truck, it started off as an idea put forth by the Shah of Iran Mohammad Reza Pahlavi for the Iranian military. The brief was to create a reliable and capable 4WD platform that could stand up to the austere terrain the Iranian forces operated in. The Shah was an important stakeholder of Mercedes at the time, so the brief was realized in the form of the 1979 debut of the “Geländewagen,” or “G-wagon”.  Of course the modern civilian version is far from its roots, but for decades, forces around the world have used the G-Wagon to get it done. Mercedes still produces a special variant of the G-Wagon for defense and security forces. It’s called the 464 G-Class Utility Truck, and unlike the civilian version that needs 93 Octane, this version can run on poor quality diesel anywhere in the world, and sports a ladder frame, three locking differentials, and rigid axles up front and in the rear. And of course, a desert khaki paint scheme with black plastic instead of chrome.  The Watch:  IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert" Photo Credit: IWC This desert khaki ceramic perpetual calendar will set you back a cool 40 large. It’s the kind of watch with a case as big as its price tag at 46.5mm. But the aesthetic of the watch is its strength. It looks cool, even if you’re paying dearly for that look. IWC is based in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, in the German-speaking region near the German border. Underneath it all, there’s an in-house caliber that’s well engineered.  The Link: Expensive but capable is the theme here, and both of these things have a degree of unnecessary tacticool flashiness that’s earned them a legion of loyal followers, even if they’re designed with stealthiness in mind.  The Vehicle: Toyota Hi-Lux This is regarded as the most indestructible truck on the planet by most automotive enthusiasts. For better or worse, bad actors agree. That’s why you’ll often see a squad of masked goons perched in the bed alongside a shoddily mounted SALW set up ripping through the desert. We don’t get the Hi-Lux in the US, instead we get the Tacoma, which is a great truck in its own right–but not quite as tough as the Hi-Lux. It comes in a range of diesel and petrol options, 4x4 drivetrains, and the most basic features possible. Trucks modified as an “improvised fighting vehicle” are referred to as technicals. While yes, terrorists are known to employ technicals, our own Special Operations Forces have used them as well. The Toyota Hi-Lux is an absolute legend.  The Watch: Casio F-91W Speaking of legendary, Kikuo Ibe’s G-Shock is unequivocally the watch of choice for terrorists. It’s no secret that Usama bin Laden wore the F-91W. This isn’t to be taken as a knock against the watch, however. Terrorists deserve absolutely zero praise, a lot of us have dedicated our careers to mitigating their efforts.  But the truth is, the equipment that terrorists typically use has to be cheap and reliable. That’s exactly what the F-91W is.  (Read More: Casio F-91W, the Preferred Watch of Terrorists) The Link: I’ve met a few terrorists in my life, and they come in all shapes and sizes.  The one thing they all have in common, whether in Colombia, Somalia or Afghanistan, is a love for Hi-Lux and Casio.  Indestructible, simple, easy to use, and both favorites of bad actors around the globe–and good ones, too.  The Vehicle:  Land Rover Wolf You probably know the Land Rover Defender–the boxy, no-frills 4x4 that’s earned a massive fan base around the globe for its collection of 90-degree angles, not to mention its reputation as the physical incarnation of the English can-do attitude. It’s long out of production now, but the Wolf is the Defender, mostly in OD Green, with a roll bar and soft top, and a number of fortifications that made it fit for military duty. It also used the 300Tdi engine instead of the Td5 as it was considered easier to work on in the field because of its analog properties. It was widely used by UK forces during GWOT. There were nearly 100 versions of the Wolf performing specific roles like serving as an ambulance or modified for winter-specific operations.  The Watch: Bremont Broadsword Bremont Broadsword (Photo Credit Bremont) The Broadsword is Bremont’s interpretation of a Dirty Dozen watch, and it’s settled into the line-up as a GADA model that’s closely associated with Bremont’s military program. It’s simple, it’s tough, and has a touch of elegance. Just like its country of origin. It’s got small seconds at 6 just like the original Dirty Dozen watches, but now it’s joined by a date window. The font is modern, and it’s been endorsed by the MoD. That means Bremont has the rights to revive the Broad Arrow markings and put it on this very model. (See our profile: Aviation “Unit Watches”: Bremont Military and Special Projects Division) The Link: Strong ties to heritage and made in England with English pride is the theme here.  The Vehicle: MRZR 4x4 You’ve either driven a Polaris RZR or know someone who has one. They’re everywhere outside major cities in the US. The MRZR isn’t all that different, but it runs on diesel and includes strategic protection for use in conflict zones. The strength of the vehicle remains the same between the civilian and military variant: being able to rip through rough terrain quickly and reliably. The MRZR is designed to be transported in the V-22, H-53, and H-47.  The Watch: Pelagos 39 Photo Credit: James Rupley Rendered in titanium with the same legible dial layout as the apex predator dive watch, the Tudor Pelagos, the Pelagos 39 is slightly downsized for a perfect fit. Some folks don’t like the brushing on the dial or bezel, but it’s hard to deny how well this watch wears and how legible it is. (Read More: Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.s) The Link: Light and nimble. Pared down. Easy to use. Their perfect size is their strength.  The Vehicle: High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle (HMMWV; Humvee) SOCOM Modified HUMVEE as a part of the Ground Mobility Vehicle (GMV) program. (Photo Credit: DOD) The High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle, otherwise known as the Humvee, entered service in the late ‘80s, just as tensions were heating up around the globe. Developed for large scale Cold War-level conflicts, it quickly became a central figure in TV reportage of the Persian Gulf War. Meanwhile it served in Just Cause, Somalia, and the conflicts of the time in Bosnia and Kosovo. Its early success cemented its reputation as reliable and effective, and it went on to become known as the most successful light military truck in modern history. Where the Willys Jeep is a symbol of American mid-century might, the Humvee stands in for the military role the US has played in modern times. In fact, the vehicle was so beloved by the Americans that AM General produced a civilian version of it, the Hummer.  The Watch: Panerai Submersible PAM02973 (Photo Credit: Panerai) Panerai (in some fashion) was one of the original suppliers to Italian Frogmen. The brand’s signature svelte Italian curvy case and sandwich dial might have been relegated to the more style-oriented subset of watches today, but there’s certainly bonafide military history in Panerai’s past. The watches are chunky and oversized. The Submersible adds the functionality of a rotating bezel and is engineered for diving. What many people forget is just how desirable Panerais were in the ‘90s and early 2000s. There were waiting lists and you had to “be someone” to get an allocation long before the modern hype watch phenomena. While many watch blogs continue to debate (hate on) Panerai’s marketing, the fact is it does have a strong following in the NatSec space, particularly with the Naval Special Warfare community.  The Link: Both the Humvee and the Submersible are built like tanks and were true kings of the ‘90s and 2000s. Back then, many people were probably into both. The brawny draw of both captured the same sort of enthusiast, though it may not remain so today.  The Vehicle: Soviet/Russian MAZ-7917 With a 14x12 drivetrain and the ability to obliterate nations with ICBM launching capabilities, the MAZ-7917 is a force to be reckoned with. If you see MAZ-7917 movements on intelligence reports it gets attention. It transports, erects, and launches the Topol-M missile. The 54th Guards Order of Kutuzov Rocket Division is reported to oversee the Topol-M program. MAZ (Minsk Automobile Plant) manufactures the MAZ-7917 in Belarus, and is state-run. In addition to military vehicles, they produce vehicles like city buses for Eastern European nations.  The Watch: Seiko Astron The 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition (Photo Credit: Seiko) In 1969, Seiko unveiled the first quartz watch, and set off what would come to be dubbed the “quartz crisis” by the watch industry. The Astron relied on electronics to tell the time rather than traditional watchmaking know-how that Switzerland specialized in. Quartz watches were cheaper and more accurate, and Japan’s trio of Citizen, Seiko, and Casio owned the market. The Astron was the watch that started this trend. We all know how the story went–Quartz had a moment but certainly did not completely stamp out the Swiss mechanical watch industry. But it was the Astron that sounded the alarms.  The Link: Both the MAZ-7917 and the Seiko Astron have the potential to set off catastrophic chain reactions. And one–the Astron–did in 1969.  The Vehicle: Bradley Fighting Vehicle The Bradley Fighting Vehicle is named for General Omar Bradley, made by British BAE Systems, and operated by Croatia, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Ukraine and of course, the US. It’s one of the most widely used tracked armored vehicles by the US and has been in service since 1981. As a tank, it’s a popular fixture in Hollywood military movies, and that’s for good reason: there are around 4,500 being actively used by the US military, and roughly 2,000 in storage. There are two versions, the M2 Infantry Fighting Vehicle and the M3 Cavalry Fighting Vehicle. It’s still being delivered to this day, at roughly 160 units per year.  The Watch: Omega PloProf Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M (Photo Credit: Omega) This is the ultimate dive watch from Omega. It’s waterproof to a staggering 1200 meters and originally used a monobloc case design which means the movement is loaded through the front and then a crystal is pressed into the case. In short, again, it’s built like a tank. There isn't an obvious curve on the case, either. The crown guard and bezel lock mechanism are actually part of the case, lending to a very functional design.   The Link: Both of these things are built in the same way–like tanks. One is actually a tank (well, a tracked armored fighting vehicle), and the other is as close as a watch can get to a tank.  The Vehicle: Type-10 Snow Vehicle Photo Credit: Military Today This vehicle is relatively obscure for a reason. Japan has a self-defense force (as opposed to an expeditionary force) and only recently has it moved towards exporting any sort of defense machinery. This means that most Japanese-developed military vehicles have stayed inside Japan, like the Type-10. It’s made by the company Ohara, which specializes in supporting civilian operations with vehicles in snowy environments, like Antarctica, where Japan maintains Syowa Research Station. The Type 10 is designed to carry 8 soldiers with gear and runs with a crew of 2.  The Watch: Seiko SPB297 Photo Credit: Seiko In 1965, Seiko came out with the 62MAS, their very first dive watch. It was well-received for the time, and Seiko took testing and quality control very seriously. The watch was issued to the 8th Antarctic Research Expedition team that stayed on the ice from 66-69. This visual language and case shape laid the foundation for plenty of Seiko’s dive watches since, and in the last five years Seiko has released a bevy of watches directly paying homage to this model. The SPB297 is one of them, and it features an icy dial to establish the link.  Showa Station, home of Seiko 62MAS testing. Credit: Antarctic Journal of the United States, 1967-68 The Link: We’ve said before that Seiko is the Toyota of Watches, but in this case it is the Ohara of watches.  Seiko might still issue watches to Japanese Antarctic teams (it’s known that Seiko made watches for JARE47 and JARE49), and if they do, it should be the SPB297. And you might find a Type-10 at Japan’s Antarctic station Showa as well.  The Vehicle:  BTR-80 - Soviet Union The Soviet-Afghan War is often overlooked, but some of the equipment that took part in the conflict certainly isn’t. The BTR-80 is one of the most striking symbols of the Soviet Union’s military might. It’s often depicted rolling through the Red Square with its crew popping out the hatches in the front of the vehicle during military parades. Most recently, the BTR-80 played an important role in the War in Ukraine. Both sides operate the BTR-80, and both sides have lost a number of them in the conflict. They’re still being produced to this day. The Watch: Vostok Amphibia Steve Zissou wore this watch in the movie The Life Aquatic, but that’s not why we think it’s interesting. The Amphibia is probably the most recognized example of a “Russian” watch. Although it should really be known as a Soviet watch, since it’s been around since ‘67 and Vostok as a company has been around since ‘42. Some collectors have a fascination with Russian/Soviet watches because of their prevalence in the current conflict in Ukraine. The Link: Both are instantly recognizable Soviet designs.  The Vehicle:  Jeep Willys MB Part of Roosevelt’s plan to emerge victorious during WWII included “out-producing the enemy” and this meant that the military industrial complex was spun up to full force. It resulted in an economic miracle, and one singular byproduct of that is the Willys Jeep. Roughly 600,000 of these light and capable 4x4 vehicles were produced, and they were shipped to every theater that the US was operating in. The vehicle went on to play a role in just about every conflict immediately following for a few decades; it was prominently featured in the show M*A*S*H, a comedic illustration of life soldiers’ lives during the Korean War. Of course, the platform evolved into an automotive smash hit in the civilian world with the Jeep Wrangler, but it started off as a humble git ‘er done piece of machinery serving on the battlefield.  The Watch: Hamilton Khaki Field Photo Credit: Hamilton We’re talking about an entire family of watches here, but if we want to get down to a specific reference, it would be the GG-W-113.  This watch was produced by many manufacturers, including Hamilton, to a US Gov spec (and that spec is GG-W-113, hence the name of the watches it spawned). That spec came out in 1967, and has since been replaced. But the modern, non-gov spec Hamilton Khaki field is the spiritual reincarnation of those Vietnam-era watches. The Link: Hamilton is now owned by the Swatch group, but it was once a truly American company that gave the US a lot of pride. The Jeep is another American icon. Both the Khaki Field and the Jeep spin off very successful civilian products that have become icons in their own right from a military specification.  -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.     Read Next: SEAL Team Six and a U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle

Sangin Instruments - The Marine Owned “Raider Rolex” I first heard of Sangin Instruments during TDY travel to a WarZone while at CIA.  At the time I was responsible for a counterterrorism Covert Action program in the Middle East and I was traveling to visit the program on a flight with other CIA officers.  (REDACTED PARAGRAPH) The atmosphere on the plane was a Star Wars bar vibe, with bearded paramilitary officers, support personnel and analysts, all dressed in civilian clothing that varied from business casual to a college campus look and of course the obligatory new camping gear from REI.  Like most things at CIA, rules were relaxed and the plane filled with professionals who didn’t need to be told which rules actually mattered. During a refuel stop in a European country, I struck up a conversation with the individual sitting next to me who I assessed (correctly) was a GRS (Global Response Staff) contractor reading a book on the Rhodesian Bush War. The conversation moved from evolution counterterrorism tactics, the ongoing conflict in our destination country and finally watches. The operator asked about the Rolex Submariner on my wrist, and was quick to interject that he used to wear his Sub during deployments but lost it in a recent divorce, so now wears a Sangin watch. He then launched into a passionate pitch for the company and an overview of what the Sangin brand represents. Sangin in the wild during Orion space capsule recovery (Sangin community photo) At the time, my interest in watches was surface level. But during that trip and following deployments I began to notice Sangin Instruments on the wrists of SpecOps personnel, CIA paramilitary officers, and other case officers.  In the business we call this a pattern. Like many watch companies, Sangin was a subculture in itself. Very much a “if you know, you know” type thing. I wanted to learn more about the watch that seemed to keep appearing on the wrist of professionals in this world. So I reached out to one of the two founders, Jacob Servantes to learn about how the company came to be.   (Sangin community photo) Sangin Instruments  Watches are a medium for stories, but for Jacob Servantes, Marine Raider and founder of Sangin Instruments, they provided even more.  “You come out of the military depressed as hell. At the professional level we were at, a lot of what you do becomes who you are. And when you leave, the machine just keeps going . . . so Sangin gave me a lot of purpose out of the military.” Servantes enlisted in 2008 as the economy was crumbling, hoping to earn some money for college on the other side of his service. The goal was to follow his father’s footsteps and become a Reconnaissance Marine.  At the time, he wasn't aware that a restructuring in 2006 would mean that elements of the Marine Corps would participate in SOCOM, resulting in MARSOC. He ended up squarely in the special operations community.  A rare photo of Jacob on deployment in Afghanistan. It was during selection that he walked away with his first lesson that he would incorporate into Sangin Instruments–become the new standard.  Become the New Standard Not much was publicly known about the Raider selection process, and that’s by design. But Servantes recounted the biggest takeaway was that the standard to be selected by the instructors only moved in one direction: it became harder and harder. When Marines rose to the standard, and exceeded it, their standard became the new standard. “We used to joke that the mattress fairy would take people away at night, because every night you would see fewer and fewer people,” Servantes recalled. In his class, a group of 120 hopeful Marines were deposited in an undisclosed location somewhere in North Carolina. 25 people were selected after a grueling three weeks and countless miles of rucking/team events. Each class sets the standard for the next class, meaning that the standard is constantly being raised. It always gets harder, and that idea is something Servantes has incorporated into the way Sangin Instruments does things, “selection is continuous.” (Sangin community photo) Sangin, Afghanistan The name of Servantes’ company comes from Sangin, in Afghanistan’s Helmand province, an area along the Helmand River Valley where the Commando team he worked on spent much of their deployment. Sangin is a place that many who served during the GWOT will be familiar with, and it was known as “the most dangerous place in the world for multiple years running–the hospital on base was the busiest hospital, anywhere, at the time.” Servantes says. That’s part of why he chose the name Sangin Instruments. “Sangin is a horrible place in the world–many guys attribute awful memories to Sangin, but they’ll carry this name with them and hopefully have a positive memory about breaking down barriers, and their own sacrifices and achievements.”  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Building a watch company is not for the fainthearted and bringing the brand to life was an achievement in itself. It almost didn’t happen. But the can-do attitude prevailed. He got back from a deployment and told his wife that he’d put in his time with special operations. During his time in the Middle East and the Philippines, he wore a M-1 Breitling Chrono Avenger (sketchy) and several Digital Tool Watches. While deployed, he'd been thinking about watch designs based on the work he was doing. He tested the market among his friends and colleagues in the military and conceptualized a watch that would be affordable and capable. A watch that would stand up to the type of work they were doing while also speaking to the community.  Watches Built For Warriors Servantes’ wife, Paris, bought the idea. This was 2017. After some help from his mentor, Bill Yao of popular watch microbrand MK II, they had a prototype. And following the evaluation of the prototype, Sangin launched a successful pre-sale that would help fund the initial batch of 250 watches called the Kinetic 1. The only problem was that Paypal held the funding without explanation and would not release it to obtain the watches. Paris reached into her savings and a small inheritance; Servantes had his bonus from his last Afghanistan deployment. Between them, they scraped together the cash and bet big on Sangin Instruments working out. They were in a squeeze, but Servantes had a steadfast partner in his wife, who learned how to do Quality Control on all the watches and packaged them up and answered customer emails while he was in business school. W.O.E.’s personal Sangin Overlord Believing in Sangin Instruments paid off, but it was never the plan–the primary objective was to take care of the community and make a product to be proud of. The first round of watches was delivered and the phones haven’t stopped ringing since.  “Part of the culture of watches in general is wanting to have a part of something you’ve done. So when these guys leave the military, they can take a piece of that experience with them,” Servantes says of his watches.  (Sangin community photo) Sangin Today  Today, Sangin boasts an impressive line of watches, from the entry level quartz Overlord to the premium newly released Hydra, Sangin’s interpretation of a mid-century compressor-style diver's watch. The community remains an important part of Sangin’s identity with customers demonstrating a near religious fervor as they wait for the next release. Sangin also offers several watches that must be earned.  The “Para” Overlord is only available to members of the airborne community and would-be customers must submit a certification verification.  The green bezel Atlas and Neptune are available only to those who have completed a SOF selection course, red for first responders and blue for law enforcement personnel.  They are tools for professionals. Jacob was mum on the ongoing special projects “unit watches” but a custom Professional made for the CIA Directors Protective Staff (DPS) was recently for sale on Ebay (but quickly disappeared without explanation).  Suffice to say, we are aware of several special projects for units in the IC and SpecOps community but cannot go into details at this time. Ebay listing of Sangin Professional for the CIA’s Directors Protective Staff. (Ebay)  Sangin Instruments - “With You” As Sangin grows, Servantes makes sure that giving back and taking care of the community he comes from is part of it. Servantes has developed watches that specifically speak to a community of men and women who serve. As he grew the business, an unlikely presence in the watch world supercharged the number of people interested in Sangin. “Rolex helped us out with their price point and availability. You have a lot of Green Berets who finally could afford a Rolex but just couldn't get them. And here we were offering something specifically for them,” he says.  Informally, many refer to Sangin watches as the “Raider Rolex.” Now Servantes will run into guys who tell him that they have a few deployments on their watch, and the memories of service are imbued into the timepiece. That’s exactly what makes Servantes and Paris continue to push Sangin forward. A part of the Sangin Instruments mission that Servantes doesn’t publicly put forward is his support of important nonprofits contributing to those in the veteran community, including HunterSeven Foundation, Special Operations Care Fund (SOC-F) and Vigilant Torch. One of the altruistic motivations of the W.O.E. platform is preserving watch culture in the NatSec community. No one has done more to further this end than the team at Sangin Instruments. Many of us came up in the GWOT days where digital watches were the norm. Sangin offers a great way for professionals to get into watches in an unpretentious manner. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. READ NEXT: Demystifying a North Korean State-Sponsored Luxury Wristwatch Awarded to High-Ranking Officials

No, General Schwarzkopf did not double wrist a Rolex and Seiko Despite What You’ve Read. Pictured is General H. Norman Schwarzkopf wearing two watches. Read any story on Schwarzkopf and watches and you’ll learn that it’s a Rolex Day-Date and a Seiko diver. There’s just one problem–he didn’t wear a Rolex. The truth is just as interesting, however. Both watches are Seikos, aka the Toyota of Watches. Thanks to research by our friend @niccoloy, we’d like to set the record straight, and while we’re at it, we’ll dig into the idea of “double wristing”, or simply put–wearing two watches at once. “Double Wristing” -Bravado vs practical utility: Double wristing can be understood today as somewhat of a “flex”, done by celebrities, athletes and rappers as an ostentatious display of wealth, an indication one has “f*ck you money.”  But wearing two watches before the era of smartphones meant something different. Keep in mind, watches were largely used for their intended purpose - to tell time. Wearing two watches meant that you probably had a reason to.  While the GMT complication has allowed a single watch to track two time zones at once, several historical figures have worn multiple watches. Most notable among them is Four Star General H. Norman Schwarzkopf, aka Stormin’ Norman, who wore a watch on each wrist during the First Gulf War. There’s undeniably an element of projecting a certain image, but here’s the reason in his own words: "I always wore two watches during the war. The one on my left arm was set on Saudi Arabian time and the Seiko on my right arm was set on Eastern Standard Time. That way I could quickly glance at my watches and instantly know the time in both Saudi Arabia and Washington, D.C.”  Then commander of United States Central Command (CENTCOM) and head of coalition forces against Saddam Hussein, Schwarzkopf was pictured regularly wearing the two timepieces, a supposed two tone "Rolex" and a Seiko diver on a rubber strap.   Photo Credit: Yousuf Karsh The dressier watch is regularly reported in watch media as a two tone Rolex Day-Date, which is incorrect.  According to expert historical watch spotter @niccoloy, both watches are actually Seikos.  Niccoloy looked through scores of pictures to find this relatively obscure photo of General Schwarzkopf on a helicopter, the signature Seiko clasp clearly visible on the inside of the wrist. Practicality vs Imagery, Bravado, Perceptions: Did the General really need two watches to track the time in DC and Saudi Arabia?  Probably not, a simple GMT function would have sufficed. Or a quick calculation.  While we will not outright question Schwarzkopf’s claimed utility of the two timepieces, we can also assume that the watches also served as a tool in the information war. In Diplomacy, Military, and Intelligence, imagery and perception matters.  Modern day Generals are just as much politicians and diplomats as they are warfighters.  Schwarzkopf was the face of the Gulf conflict to the American people, allies, and Iraqis. He likely spent considerable time thinking about how he was perceived by each constituent.  While it seems comical now, thirty-plus years ago, the “double wristing” arguably supported his persona as someone in charge, someone who valued time and someone intensely focused on accomplishing his mission.  The contrast of the two watches, one a riff on the watch par excellence, and the other a known tool watch, mirrored his position as warrior-diplomat. An effective General can get his hands dirty during the day and stroll right into a state dinner at night looking the part.  Our assessment is that these two accessories were intended as a physical display of this dichotomy.  The watches were tools–each one for a different job. Interestingly, General Schwarzkopf appears to periodically switch wrists throughout the conflict, the reasoning behind this is purely speculation.  While the two tone dress Seiko is unidentified, the blue and red “Pepsi” bezel Seiko on a rubber strap was auctioned in the 1990s at Antiquorum for $11,000.  The Seiko diver is often listed as a Seiko SKX009, but according to the 1999 auction description, it was quartz so it is likely something a Seiko reference 7548. Havana - Moscow - Washington D.C. The General is by no means the first notable historical figure to wear two watches at once. Fidel Castro routinely wore multiple watches, sometimes on the same wrist, including during a 1963 meeting with Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev in the Kremlin.  There are some indications he set the watches to Havana, Moscow, and Washington DC (The third utilizing the GMT function).   Similar to Schwarzkopf, we can assume this was just as much a strategic decision as it was practical. We can only speculate what a socialist and Marxist-Leninist leader was trying to accomplish with this display, but we can assume it was no accident.  (Today Washington D.C. and Havana are in the same time zone -UTC -5-, but between the years 1960 and 1964 Havana used the time zone UTC -4.)   Modern Day Double Wristing - Is it acceptable? In general, we do not judge people for how or why they wear their watches.  Anything that lets one enjoy their timepieces is a good thing.  It appears that double wristing is having a renaissance with the advent of the smart watch.  This may seem overboard, but the use case of wearing a high tech Apple Watch and a traditional timepiece seems to make complete sense.  Recently, former Delta Officer and JSOC Commander, Four Star Gen. Scott Miller was seen double wristing an Omega Seamaster 300M and smart watch while meeting with some former Afghan partners in Texas.  It's hard to judge a man like Scotty Miller. READ NEXT: The History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military

Detailing the Lesser Known Fourth CISO-Issued “SOG Seiko” By Nick Ferrell - Watches of Espionage previously covered a trio of vintage Seiko dive watches worn by the U.S. Military’s ultra-secretive Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observat

Travel Pouch And Challenge Coin - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Modern Navy SEAL Watch Culture - GBRS Group and Watches of Espionage Collaboration  We have written extensively about the history of Navy SEALs and watches.  From Tudor Submariner 7928’s issued in Vietnam and Seiko 6309-7049’s during the Cold War days to the modern day Digital Tool Watches of the legendary G-Shock.  In present day Naval Special Warfare, watch culture is strong and many “Team Guys” have high end tool watches, including Rolex, Breitling, Panerai, Tudor, Omega, Bremont and various other timepieces. The reason is simple.  Many of the modern day “tool watches” were originally designed for maritime use, and specifically as military dive watches.  The predecessors of the modern Frogmen were the intended end user for the tool watches of the mid-20th century. Wearing these pieces in the present day is a nod to those who came before, the forefathers who developed the fieldcraft and tactics employed today. In the culture of Intelligence and Special Operations heritage and history is important.  We honor those who paved the way for our trade. Original UDT/SEAL issued Tudor Submariner ref. 7928 (James Rupley) To the outsider, modern day SEAL watch culture can be difficult to comprehend.  Why would a SEAL with a limited government salary spend that much money on a watch?  The idea seems to contradict the practical nature of SOF, which favors function over everything else.  In preparation for the GBRS-W.O.E. fundraiser for Third Option Foundation, we asked former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley to give a Rundown of their personal experience with watches and watch culture in the SEAL Teams. As stated by former Navy SEAL and co-founder of GBRS Group:  “It’s a part of the culture and tells a lot about the wearer of that particular piece.  The cost isn’t as important as the backstory or the sentimental value of a piece and the story you both share together.In the military you are issued particular watches, most get a standard watch like a G-Shock, easy to operate and can withstand almost anything that the user can.  As we got older it became custom to upgrade your issued watch for a more luxury watch as a statement piece.As you hit certain goals and milestones in life, you would add a timepiece to remember the occasion or that period in your life.  It was customary in the SEAL Teams to wear a Rolex at a certain stage in your career, you treated that watch just like it was a hundred dollar G-Shock, you did everything in it.It was always a funny sight in a chow hall overseas, all the guys have long hair and beards, covered in dust from the helicopters, absolutely filthy and still have on a Rolex. There is a cult following around watches that plagues a lot of us.” W.O.E.-GBRS Group Collaboration - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Earlier this year we approached GBRS Group about a possible collaboration for charity.  Cole and DJ agreed without hesitation and were eager to support Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC).  The relationship between Naval Special Warfare and the CIA is close, particularly for the paramilitary officers who recruit heavily from the SEAL Teams. “TOF provides funding to the Agencies Paramilitary officers, a lot are former colleagues, and suffer severe injuries while working with that organization.  The Third Option Foundation bridges the gap and supports those still in the shadows that never receive recognition for their sacrifices.  As a small way to say thank you, we donated the last of our AOR1 uniforms to be used in making these travel cases.  The funds raised support a fantastic group of people who truly deserve it. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you’re gonna want this for your collection.” Thank you to everyone who made this possible.  Please consider a donation to Third Option Foundation to support the men and women at the tip of the spear. For additional information on Navy SEAL Watches: A Navy SEAL’s Rolex Submariner On The Osama Bin Laden Raid SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle The History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting

If you haven’t had a chance to read Part I of this Dispatch, please check it out here. If you don’t, you’ll be confused.  by Benjamin Lowry After the initial combat jump and assault into Tocumen Military Airfield and two weeks of searching and numerous assaults, raids, and skirmishes, Jose’s team ultimately just missed capturing infamous dictator Manuel Noriega, unknowingly coming within a few hundred yards of his position before being called off by the powers that be. Despite the disappointment, Jose confirmed his appreciation for a life lived at the pointy end of the spear.  A 1989 ad for a Timex Ironman similar to Jose's. An impressively capable digital family of watches, the Ironman is often overshadowed by the legendary G-Shock.  Decompressing from the disheartening near miss with Noriega, Gordon returned to the United States, eventually purchasing a Timex Ironman with an Indiglo backlight that offered better nighttime legibility than the fading luminescent material on his trusty old Seiko. After a relatively quiet Gulf War deployment in 1991, Jose continued to climb the enlisted leadership ladder of the developing Ranger Regiment. Through numerous near-involvements in global conflicts in Liberia, Somalia, Peru, and other hotspots around the globe, Gordon honed his craft in crisis action and mission planning, helping to create an incredibly complex but ultimately unutilized assault plan for Haiti involving no less than 48 aircraft and the 82nd Airborne.  A young Jose (right) operating in South America with an issued field watch on the wrist. Source: Jose Gordon While he remembers his Timex serving him well, Gordon missed his old 6309 and was quick to pick up a Seiko SKX007 when they were released in 1996. As we know, for a real watch nerd, the pull of analog mechanical timekeeping can be too much to resist. By the late 90s, Gordon earned his promotion to First Sergeant, the Army’s second-highest enlisted pay grade, while serving at the Ranger Regimental Training Detachment. Hand-selected to serve at West Point as the Senior Enlisted Advisor in 2001, Gordon neared the natural end of his 20-year career, spending his days sharing his decades of combat experience and lessons learned with cadets who would become the future of the Army Officer Corps. As the United States cracked open the 21st Century, Gordon and the rest of the world were unaware of the meteoric events awaiting New York City and the Pentagon on September 11th, 2001. Hijacked United Airlines Flight 175 preparing to collide with the South Tower of the World Trade Center on September 11th, 2001. Source: Associated Press On the morning of the 11th, Jose finished his PT and was getting dressed for work when his wife Patty called from the barn at West Point where she had her horses to tell him to turn on his TV because “. . . something big was happening.” Like so many Americans and particularly those within his profession, Jose remembers feeling two things most of all, an otherworldly anger that seemed to ache from deep within his bones paired with the intangible drive to help in whatever capacity he might offer. Around 1030 that morning, with smoke still billowing from the fallen Twin Towers of the World Trade Center, a general from the Pentagon called West Point asking after Gordon. A member of “The Unit” had referred the general to Gordon as someone relatively near Ground Zero geographically speaking who had an impressive reputation in the breaching community. “Breaching” is military parlance for forced entry in tactical scenarios, meaning Gordon was familiar with exothermic cutting and controlled explosive demolitions, skills that were to prove useful in ways the military had never imagined.  Jose in modern times instructs students in exothermic cutting, a key component of any breacher's arsenal, with a Sinn U1 on the wrist. Specializing in breaching throughout his career, Jose never imagined how his skills would be utilized at Ground Zero. Source: Jose Gordon A New York State Trooper was assigned to meet Gordon at West Point’s Thayer Gate and personally deliver him to Ground Zero. For whatever reason, Gordon reached for his newly acquired Suunto Vector, an early digital watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass functionality, that morning for PT as opposed to his beloved SKX. With Americans advised to shelter in place, the State Trooper raced along empty highways to New York at well over 100 miles per hour. Tracking the minutes on his Suunto’s digital display, time once again seemed to slow as Gordon anxiously awaited his turn to help his fellow Americans in the chaos of Lower Manhattan. While he’d seen the devastation on TV and heard more detailed reports through military channels, nothing could have prepared Jose for the magnitude of destruction he would face at Ground Zero. With 19 years in the Army, almost all of which with the Ranger Regiment, Gordon had seen his share of death and destruction at the frayed edges of modern civilization, but this was something else altogether. This was the United States.  Gordon worked at Ground Zero from September 11th to the 11th of October, serving as one of very few active duty military members involved in the early recovery efforts, alongside virtually every imaginable federal and local government agency. While Jose was clear when we spoke that he doesn’t wake up at night remembering the countless faces of the dead he’s seen in combat, he admitted he vividly remembers the faces of the dead unearthed at Ground Zero, ranging in expression from placid to horror-stricken. He also recalls the immense efforts taken to recover and identify the fallen and missing, with FBI Crime Scene Technicians occasionally stopping Gordon to point out the odd pink stain on a concrete slab, the product of human beings crushed between floors under the immense pressure of a falling skyscraper. A sour construction site smell permeated the area alongside an eerie silence so pervasive it could almost be heard above the din of dozens of generators. Amid the smoke, rubble, sweat, blood, and innumerable tears of the somber, post-apocalyptic scene, anger welled in Jose’s heart. Jose's Suunto Vector and hardhat, both of which were worn continuously while working at Ground Zero. Source: Jose Gordon. Returning from Ground Zero, Gordon was desperate to find a way into the developing conflict in the Middle East. Unfortunately for him, the Army had other ideas, insisting he serve his swansong tour in South Korea in an advisory leadership role. With firsthand experience at Ground Zero scraping the remains of fallen Americans from the rubble, there was no way Gordon was going to miss his chance to bring the fight to the enemy. After twenty-one years, Gordon chose to retire from the Army, the galvanizing force of his adult life, to look for another way. A few months working with legendary firearms manufacturer Heckler & Koch was a good start, with Gordon helping to develop both the HK416 and XM8, but he still yearned for his place in combat.  During his stint with Heckler & Koch, Jose helped to develop the HK416 and the polarizing XM8, seen here being tested by the US Army in the early 2000s. Source: US Army Eager to find the rare few with combat experience from before the brand new Global War On Terror, the Defense Intelligence Agency (DIA) recruited Gordon to work as a contractor. For two years, he worked with an Army research lab developing new tactics, techniques, and procedures while also actively deploying with an unnamed special mission unit conducting surveillance and intelligence gathering missions. Unsurprisingly, Jose is careful with what he shares when it comes to describing this part of his life. Eventually, Gordon was recruited to help form the Asymmetric Warfare Group (AWG), a blend of active duty military and civilians charged with embedding among both conventional and special operations units to identify gaps and develop solutions to increase combat effectiveness and what the Army calls “Soldier Survivability”. Like many watch nerds, Gordon was also a gear nerd, and the new role seemed tailor-made for Jose’s strengths.   Jose in his AWG days with a Suunto Observer on the wrist. Source: Jose Gordon Far from sitting on the sidelines taking notes, advisors like Gordon deployed and fought alongside military units at the darkest corners of the wars in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other locations Gordon opts not to name. The core of Jose’s job was figuring out what these units needed firsthand, a job that meant accompanying the warfighters no matter the mission or how deep in the shit they managed to get. With most of their operations taking place at night, Jose picked up a Luminox Navy SEAL with tritium tubes for illumination shortly after leaving the Army. When the tritium began to fade, an AWG teammate directed him to Traser, another popular maker of military watches that leaned into tritium. Of all of the watches he wore in combat, Gordon counts his two Traser watches, a P6600 and a Commander as among the best, being incredibly durable and perfectly legible in the darker conditions where people like him thrive.  Jose training his nephew, currently serving in the US Army, in the ways of subterranean warfare with his trusty Sinn U1 on the wrist. By 2007, Gordon met Dave Hall, a retired US Navy SEAL who also happens to be a passionate watch enthusiast. If you haven’t read our Dispatch article about Dave’s life in the SEAL Teams. Dave turned Jose onto Sinn, a German brand known for utilitarian tool watches. Gordon purchased a U1 that same year and has worn it almost daily ever since. At this point, it’s important to note that Gordon was in his fifties and still found himself in combat situations while serving AWG on a consistent basis, ultimately seeing even more combat as a civilian contractor than he did on active duty until the AWG was disbanded in 2020.  Jose's Sinn U1 has seen some shit. Source: Jose Gordon Over the course of 40 years on the front lines, Gordon served with distinction both within the US Military as well as in civilian government contractor roles, amassing an impressive reputation within the special operations community. Despite his incredible background and experiences, Jose is humble almost to a fault, coming off ego-free and quicker to talk about how much he likes his Sinn U1 than he is to brag about his special operations combat experience. Jose’s unique experiences working with military gear and the government procurement process have led him to have an intimate understanding for sorting the necessary elements of a tool watch from the marketing fluff, and it’s no surprise to see his career influenced by brands like Seiko, Timex, Luminox, Traser, and Sinn. Like a number of individuals featured on the W.O.E. Dispatch, Jose is further evidence that a surprising number of the military elite continue to favor mechanical analog watches even in demanding combat scenarios, which should mean they’re solid enough for the rest of us not to worry.  These days, Jose stays busy sharing his lessons learned with the next generation of warfighters. Source: Jose Gordon Today, Gordon works part-time with the Irregular Warfare Technical Support Directorate as a Subject Matter Expert on subterranean warfare. He also shares his vast experience in weapons and tactics training working with Green Ops, a firearm and security training company, while also owning his own consultancy providing operational and tactical advice to the government. If you’d like to talk watches, guns, or gear with Jose, which I highly recommend, he can now be found on Instagram @rgrguns. He’s new to Instagram, and I’m counting on you guys to show him a warm welcome.  Read Next: Blackwater Breitling - The Story About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. These days, Ben splits his time between writing and video production in the watch industry and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers.

Two British Tier One Special Operations units, the Special Air Service (SAS) and Special Boat Service (SBS), have a long and storied history of using high-end tool watches.  While this relationship was initially established through Ministry of Defence (MoD)-issued timepieces, including the highly-collectable Rolex Military Submariners (MilSub) references, in more recent decades the relationship has evolved, and the SAS and SBS units have commissioned watches to honor their distinct heritage. In order to document the lesser-known SBS-commissioned blue-dialed Omega Seamaster GMT 300 Co-Axial, we spoke with Dean Stott, a former member of the SBS about his 2007 SBS Omega.  After 16 years of service, Stott still boldly embodies the “use your tools” ethos.  Stott wore his SBS Seamaster on combat deployments while operational and still wears it today in the next chapter of his life. Stott during a 2009 Supervisor Forward Air Controller (SUPFAC) Course, Omega on his wrist. Unit Watches: Even as a patriotic, red-blooded American, I have to acknowledge that much of what we’ve come to know as “Watches of Espionage” likely originated across the pond in the United Kingdom. James Bond is an obvious example, but military “unit watches” appear to have been prevalent on the eastern side of the Atlantic before widespread popularity in the United States. Unit watches now play a significant role in the watch culture of American and international servicemen, and point to the heart of watch culture in the National Security community.  A unit watch is a customized version of a standard production reference that usually includes the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or engraved on the caseback. Many of these are produced at the manufacturer and are not modified on the aftermarket.  Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor and Rolex have long histories of military customization programs, but newcomer and UK-based Bremont Watch Company has made significant headway in capturing the market and providing a unique watch to military and intelligence units. These watches are tools, but also serve as constant reminders of one's service to their country. Given the rapid proliferation of digital timepieces, many operators choose to wear a G-Shock, Suunto or other smart watch while operational, and reserve the unit watch for the garrison.  We have written in the past about much of the aversion of part of the watch community to the military, and there is much truth to this when it comes to watch journalism and the watch elitism in the fashion capitals like New York and Los Angeles. But the watch companies themselves, the ones actually producing the timepieces in Switzerland or elsewhere, have historically been forward-leaning in supporting those who answer the call to serve. In true Swiss fashion, certain watch manufacturers value discretion on a level that rivals an intelligence service, and many of these models are not openly advertised and only known to the broader public when they leak out on the internet or watch forums years later.  Gangster move for sure. SBS OMEGA Seamaster: W.O.E. takes a strong position on the idea that the fictitious James Bond should wear Rolex, but the connections between Omega and the British Ministry of Defence and specifically the British Royal Navy and maritime SOF units are undeniable.  One recent and striking example of this relationship is the British Special Boats Service’s 2007 commission of blue-dialed Omega Seamaster GMT 300 Co-Axial (ref. 2535.80.00). Omega produced 500 numbered pieces exclusively for the SBS operators. According to Stott, the SBS was adamant that the watches were for the sole use of actively-serving badged SBS operators and not offered to former members or support personnel.  This would also ensure that all operators, including those deployed, were able to secure a timepiece. When worn, the watch is indistinguishable from other Seamaster GMTs from the time period, but off the wrist, the SBS insignia is visible on the sapphire caseback with the SBS motto, “'By Strength and Guile."  The watches are serialized 1-500, as visible by Stott’s #263/500.  Rated for 800 meters, the watch was designed for hard use and Stott put it to the test regularly.  He said that while many of the operators kept the watch in the box to pass on to future generations or wore it only while back in the UK on safe soil, Stott opted to use it as it was intended: as a tool.  He wore the Omega on countless operations and training missions, including operational jumps in Afghanistan at 15,000ft and combat dives. According to Stott, the members of the SBS were aware of the 2003 SAS commission of a custom Breitling Avenger Seawolf and looked to emulate this model.  Due to the aquatic nature of the Seamaster, the unit approached Omega, who readily agreed to provide the unit with a suitable watch.  Former SAS Melvyn Downes commissioned Avenger Seawolf with the SAS insignia at the 9 o’clock on the dial, along with a D. Squadron coin. (Photo Credit: Downes, previous W.O.E. submission) The Omega Seamaster was a logical choice for the British Maritime SOF unit.  In fact, James Bond costume designer Lindy Hemming reportedly chose the Seamaster for the fictitious character due to Omega’s real connections to the British Royal Navy, including issued Seamasters in the late 1960s.  While we’re skeptical of anything coming out of Hollywood and it’s tempting to discount this rationale as a justification for a marketing-driven switch from Rolex to Omega, the logic is relatively sound. As with most people we profile at W.O.E., Stott has had an impressive career both in and outside of the military.  Stott was one of the first British army members to join SBS and conducted direct action and counter terrorism operations globally. After 16 years of military service, Stott left the military in 2016 after a horrific parachute accident. Like many former members of elite military units, Stott continued his “unrelenting pursuit of excellence.”  He spent a number of years working in Private Security operating in nonpermissive environments, and the watch came with him on many of these adventures. Notably, Stott holds two world records for biking the Pan American Highway, a 14,000 mile route from Argentina to Alaska in May 2018, raising more than $1.4 million US dollars for mental health awareness charities in the process. Stott and friend Prince Harry, 2007. Interestingly, Prince Harry is known to wear a Rolex Explorer II unit watch. Stott’s recently released book, Relentless, shares his extraordinary, inspirational life story to date: from his courageous military service and record-setting cycling adventures to his rescue missions and friendship with Prince Harry.  Stott’s watches continue to play a big role in his life. He’s now a Global Ambassador for Vertex Watch Company.   READ NEXT: SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle

From Grenada to Ground Zero With Army Ranger Jose Gordon: Anti-aircraft rounds pierced the skin of the aircraft from bottom to top, their trajectory indicated by the occasional laser-like tracer. As the MC-130 Combat Talon of the Air Force’s 1st Special Operations Wing settled into its final approach, Ranger Private Jose Gordon ambled to his feet,

“Unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.”  A unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. 

Former CIA Paramilitary Officer Billy Waugh passed away at the age of 93 exactly one week ago; but we don’t mourn his death–instead we celebrate his incredible life of service in the best way we know how–through his timepieces. William “Billy” Waugh is the Forest Gump of CIA and Special Forces with a larger than life personality and an uncanny knack for adventure. At the conclusion of WWII he attempted to enlist in the United States Marine Corps at age 15. His age got in the way, but three years later, in ‘48, he successfully enlisted in the United States Army, launching a career that would become nothing short of legendary in the Special Operations community.  (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the very year Waugh enlisted, North Korea, along with Israel, became recognized nations. The US-led Berlin Airlift was underway in response to a Soviet blockade, and Czechoslovakia had fallen to communism. By the time Waugh retired in 2005 at age 75 from the CIA, the entire geopolitical landscape had been dramatically reshaped–and Waugh’s half a century of service had played a part in that change. He deployed to the Korean, Vietnam, and Afghanistan wars as well as numerous covert operations throughout the globe. Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. Waugh wore several watches throughout his career, including at least three iconic Rolexes and a Seiko 6309. They were crucial parts of his kit and can be seen on his wrist from pictures in Vietnam, Sudan, Cuba, Afghanistan, and in his retirement as he speaks to the next generation of warriors.  Like many stories here at W.O.E., it’s never strictly about the watches. The watches we cover are simply a token–a memento–that stand in to represent incredible tales of servitude and sacrifice. Billy Waugh’s watches are no different. They represent key moments in a life dedicated to the Special Operations community. The Missing Rolex, Vietnam: In 1954, after serving in Korea, Waugh earned his Green Beret and joined the 10th Special Forces Group in Bad Tölz, in what was West Germany at the time. The same year the Vietnam war kicked off, and Waugh found himself right at the center of the conflict for a number of years. Eventually Waugh joined Special Forces A-team A-321, an “Operational Detachment Alpha” serving with 5th Special Forces Group.  The ODA conducted a night raid on a Viet Cong compound in Bong Son, in Binh Dinh Province. The area was littered with Viet Cong, North Vietnamese and other Communist forces including the Chinese and that left Waugh and his teammates thoroughly outnumbered. A fire fight broke out and the ODA was hit hard. Most of Waugh’s teammates were injured in the fight, including Waugh. He described the situation in his book, Hunting the Jackal. Waugh as a young Special Forces Master Sergeant, 1964 (Photo Crédit: Hunting the Jackal) I took another bullet, this time across the right side of my forehead. I don’t know for sure, but I believe the bullet ricocheted off the bamboo before striking me. It sliced in and out of a two-inch section of my forehead, and it immediately started to bleed like an open faucet. It sounds like the punch line to a bad joke, but you know it’s a bad day when the best thing about it is getting shot in the head. Miraculously Waugh was still alive, but in bad shape.  All that mud had baked on me like a crust. The leeches were everywhere. The bones on my leg were sun-baked. The dried blood on my forehead made it tough to see, but I didn’t need my eyes to understand I was naked. They’d (the North Vietnamese Army) come across that paddy and stripped me of my clothes, my Rolex watch, my gear–everything.  Eventually Waugh's teammates found him and brought him to safety. The road to recovery was long, but for his valiant efforts, he was awarded a Silver Star and a Purple Heart.  While we can’t say for sure, this Rolex was likely a Submariner ref. 5513 or GMT ref. 1675, both popular in the SF community and could then be purchased for “a month's salary.”  Waugh (left) in 1969 wearing what is potentially a replacement Rolex on a fabric strap and compass. (Photo Credit: Unknown) After recovering, Waugh got back in the fight and joined the shadowy Military Assistance Command-Vietnam Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG). Plenty of his work in this capacity is still classified, but it’s known that he helped train up Cambodian and Vietnamese forces in unconventional warfare tactics that would help disrupt the Ho Chi Minh trail supply route and stymy the efforts of the Viet Cong. Additionally, Waugh became highly skilled in High Altitude Low Opening parachute jumps, known as HALO. This insertion platform allowed operators to enter hostile territory virtually undetected. Waugh led the last special reconnaissance mission in ‘71; Waugh and his teammates used the HALO platform to enter a denied territory held by the NVA.  Custom Gem-set Gold Rolex Day-Date: Waugh briefly retired from military service when the Vietnam War wound down and took a job with the United States Postal Service. But Waugh wasn’t meant for the USPS. He had more to give to the world of Special Operations. Before he knew it, he was back in the fold.  In the mid-1970’s Edwin Wilson, formerly CIA, recruited Waugh and a few of his former teammates to train up Libyan special forces. Waugh thought this was a CIA-backed operation, but it turned out Wilson was acting outside an official capacity. Waugh's saving grace is that he was indeed recruited by CIA prior to his transition to Libya for Wilson’s project. The CIA tasked him with photographing and reporting on any interesting activity that he noticed while he was there. The USSR was heavily invested in Libya and was of interest to US security. He photographed and observed the soldiers he was training and various Surface-to-Air missile sites.  Waugh’s Gold Rolex Day-Date with aftermarket diamonds. (Photo Credit: member of W.O.E. Community) It was here that he reportedly purchased a gem-set gold Rolex Day-Date. According to a member of the W.O.E. community, Waugh told students of a recent Special Forces 18A course that he “purchased it in the late seventies in Libya for 13-14k.” But Waugh was well aware of the rise in value of Rolex watches. “Ya better believe that goddamn thing is worth about $25k or more now!” Waugh exclaimed when discussing the watch.  Waugh’s Rolex, Photo Provided by Waugh’s widow through Ric Prado and Tom Marshall. We’ve had pictures of this watch for over a year but didn’t publish them for a simple reason: we surmised the authenticity of the watch may have been questionable.  However, we reached out to several vintage watch experts who said they believe the watch is likely real but modified with aftermarket diamonds on the bezel and dial. This style of modification was relatively common during the period. Rolex even launched its own service creating bespoke pieces for discerning clients in the ‘60s and ‘70s with custom gem-setting.  While we can’t establish a concrete history of the watch, the diamond-set gold Rolex is perfect for an old school SF operator.  Waugh was also famous for wearing an SF pendant on a gold chain and gold rings.  This watch can be seen frequently on his wrist after retirement, the bracelet is stretched and scratched after decades of hard use. (Photo Credit: Nick Stubbs / US Air Force / Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain) Post Libya: After his Libya stint Waugh was assigned to the Kwajalein Missile Range in the Marshall Islands to survey and report on Soviet maritime activity in the area. In 1991 he returned to Africa, this time to Khartoum, Sudan to survey and track Usama Bin Laden, who was relatively unknown to the public but of interest to the US intelligence. Waugh’s assignment was to survey the activities and patterns of life of Bin Laden. According to a contact that discussed the assignment with Waugh, he would “conduct his surveillance under the guise of going for a jog around the living area of bin Laden and his guards, frequently ‘flipping those bastards the bird or pretending to shoot them by pointing finger guns and imitating pulling the trigger’ while they watched him conduct his run. Waugh mentioned pushing up the request to kill bin Laden as it didn’t make sense to him to burn more time watching him. That request was denied and he wrapped up his surveillance shortly thereafter.”  Waugh in Cairo, Egypt late 1990s (Photo Credit: Waugh) The subject of much of Waugh’s book, Hunting the Jackal, is Ilich Ramirez Sanchez, known as “Carlos the Jackal.” Waugh was assigned to track him down after Sanchez had evaded a number of intelligence agencies around the world after committing murder in a number of countries and playing a role in terror attacks. Waugh set up a surveillance site, tracked and photographed The Jackal for some time before turning over the intelligence to the French, who conducted the capture mission.  Rolex 1675 “Pepsi” GMT-Master: Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) We have previously said that a GMT-Master is the perfect watch for a CIA Case Officer, and this is especially true for an old school operator like Billy Waugh.  This reference is likely from the 1970s around the time Waugh would have been recruited by the CIA.  Unfortunately, we are unable to confirm the details of when he acquired the watch and if it was worn operationally in any capacity, though given Waugh’s life, it is reasonable to assume this is the case. Waugh has been photographed wearing the watch, including during a recent interview with Recoil Magazine. Rolex GMT on Waugh’s wrist in retirement. (Photo Credit, Recoil Magazine and Tom Marshall) September 11th, 2001: After the September 11 attacks, Waugh, then 71, deployed to Afghanistan as a member of the CIA’s Northern Alliance Liaison Team –codenamed JAWBREAKER.  The Rolex was left at home and Waugh can be seen wearing a digital Suunto watch, similar to that worn by CIA team leader J.R. Seeger, as documented in “Digital Watches Of Espionage.”  As previously discussed, the digital tool-watch was a far more effective tool for the modern day fighter, even a SOG veteran like Waugh.   Despite his age, Waugh was well suited for the initial mission into Afghanistan, given his time tracking Usama bin Laden in Sudan in the ‘90s and his decades of combat and intelligence experience.  He would celebrate his 72nd birthday in Afghanistan. Gardez, Afghanistan January 2002, wearing a Suunto (Photo Credit: Hunting the Jackal, Waugh) In total, Waugh would be awarded one Silver Star, four Bronze Stars for Valor, four Commendation Ribbons for Valor, fourteen Air Medals for Valor, two Combat Infantryman badges and eight Purple Hearts.  We can also assume Waugh was awarded numerous classified commendations from CIA. As previously discussed, this reflection is less about Waugh’s watches and more about the man who wore them.  Billy Waugh served the nation with the most difficult assignments for both the US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency.  This is our way to memorialize that service and honor his sacrifice. Fair Winds and Following Seas Waugh sky diving in Cuba wearing a Seiko 6309 at an astonishing 89 years old. (Photo Credit: Annie Jacobson)  For additional information, read Waugh’s “Hunting the Jackal” and watch the interview with Waugh by Recoil Magazine.  Thank you for Tom Marshall and an unnamed member of the W.O.E. community for providing pictures and additional background on the pieces. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight   

MACV-SOG Recon Elements Required a Tough Tool To Support Operations, So They Turned To Seiko Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG or just SOG) recon men required a robust and non-attributable timepiece to accomplish their mission. They turned to Seiko, known as the ‘Toyota of Watches’. Three distinct Seiko references in total were used by MACV-SOG operators. We spoke with former SOG legend John Stryker Meyer–“Tilt”--about the role these Seikos played in the missions he took part in. As with anything clandestine, there’s plenty of misinformation and speculation out there. Meyer served as a primary source that helped us cut through the hearsay and get to the facts surrounding the shadowy MACV-SOG Seiko references.  When it comes to tools actually used in the field, there are few watch manufacturers more present than Seiko. Seiko, after all, is the “Toyota of watches”– they’re cheap and reliable utilitarian tools. For the same reasons Toyotas are a common sight in modern conflict zones, Seikos have adorned the wrists of hard men in hard places for decades.  One of the most well-known examples of Seiko’s presence in the intelligence and SpecOps world is the Vietnam-era “MACV-SOG Seiko,” procured using black budget funds and issued to SOG operators as sterile and untraceable equipment. Seiko’s cult-like following combined with military historian’s fascination with SOG has made the MACV-SOG Seikos incredibly collectable.  In an effort to go deeper and seek the truth, we spoke with former SOG legend John Stryker Meyer–“Tilt”-- about his experience with the MACV-SOG Seikos, and he would know–he was issued one.  Meyer and Lynne Black Jr. in November 1968 with their CISO-issued Seikos. Note, the watch is worn on the inside of the wrist on his strong hand, a habit he picked up in training. (Photo Credit: Meyer) John Stryker Meyer is a former Green Beret and legend in the special operations community. He’s devoted much of his later life to preserving the SOG heritage and documenting his experiences for future generations. Even after 50 years, he still remembers his Seiko well. It was one of the many tools he used to carry out his duties and execute the mission. When it came to equipment, SOG recon men were issued the most innovative tools, often custom tailored for clandestine and covert reconnaissance. Meyer received his watch from S4 unit supply specialists after arriving “in country” in April 1968. There was no fanfare, the issue process of the watch was no different from that of a CAR-15 rifle, a tiger stripe camo uniform and a PCR-25 radio: it was part of the standard kit. Meyer believed that the watches were issued in 1967, but of course when dealing with minute details from so long ago, it’s hard to say with certainty. Unfortunately, after the Vietnam conflict Meyer lost his watch while body surfing in the early 1970s, but it was likely the first of the three models, ref. 6619-8060. Meyer recalls the Seiko being issued on a black tropic strap and due to the bright glow of the tritium dial, he wore the timepiece on the inside of his right wrist, noting that “the luminous dial was so bright that SOG recon men had to cover it with gloves or black electric tape at night.” Meyer preferred the watch over the Rolex Submariners many of his fellow SF soldiers purchased, because of the bright tritium lume and the practical day/date function. It was a tool, and as he recalled over a half century later, “even in the pitch black jungle, I knew when to make communication checks with the airborne command aircraft– usually at midnight, or at 2 a.m.” For MACV-SOG operators like Meyer, timing was everything. Meyer said that some of his fellow Recon Company soldiers added a Waltham Clock Company (W.C.C.) compass to the strap, but he preferred the traditional compass around his neck. When asked about some of the myths surrounding the Seikos, including the notorious internet rumor that they were provided as rewards for capturing an enemy POW, Meyer simply called it “bullshit.” He admitted, in a casual manner that only someone with firsthand experience is qualified to divulge, that the real reward for capturing a POW was $100 and a week R&R, not a Seiko watch. (Of note, in 1968, $100 could buy you over a dozen Seiko 5s.) Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (MACV-SOG or just SOG) was an elite Special Operations unit during the Vietnam War from 1964 until 1972 and was responsible for carrying out unconventional warfare tactics. The group was multi-service, with personnel from U.S. Navy SEALs, Air Force and Marine Corps Force Reconnaissance, but relied heavily on Green Berets from the 5th Special Forces Group. SOG missions included covert and clandestine operations, reconnaissance, sabotage, wiretaps and intelligence collection in South Vietnam, North Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. SOG’s success was in part due to their make-up: one to two Americans partnered up to nine indigenous troops. In order to accomplish their covert and deniable mission, SOG required unique training, authorities and equipment, including durable and sterile timepieces. Vietnam, 1968. Pictured; left to right; Sau - Vietnamese Team Leader, Meyer, Hiep - Interpreter, Black  (Photo credit: Meyer) SOG Seiko 5s: There are three generally agreed Seiko references that were carried by SOG personnel during the conflict: 6619-8060 from circa 1967, 6119-8100 from circa 1968 and 7005-8030 from circa 1970. There is some indication that the first reference (6619-8060) were purchased by soldiers on the economy and the latter two were issued from 1968 onward. While this may have been the case, according to Meyer, he was issued his watch in early 1968, which would suggest 6619-8060 were also issued, at least in small numbers. Conrad “Ben” Baker–a man who Meyer would later describe as SOG’s “Q,” a reference to the fictional character responsible for outfitting James Bond with the latest gadgetry– was Deputy Director of Counter Insurgency Support Office (CISO). In this role, Baker managed the procuring of equipment for SOG forces and was respected by the troops. He is credited with developing and procuring tailor-made equipment: everything from SOG knives, clothing, indigenous rations and most relevant for this discussion, watches. Baker, who was based out of Okinawa, would ultimately settle on the Japanese-produced Seiko as the supplier for watches. While their Japanese production–not USMIL–issuance–offered some plausible deniability, the rationale behind the decision may have been budgetary, rather than a spooky cover story. Years later, Baker would tell Meyer, “at one point, every team wanted 12 or 13 Rolex watches, the Oyster model I believe. They got Seiko watches instead that cost $6 or $8 apiece.” There are confirmed examples of MACV-SOG forces owning each of the three references, and while most modern day pictures show nylon straps, historical photos mostly show black tropical straps, something Meyer remembered as more “plastic” than rubber.  Seiko Sportsmatic 5, Ref. 6619-8060, circa 1967: Known for the graphite sunburst dial, the 36mm steel case features a 21 jewel 6619 movement and depth rating of 50 meters. 6619-8060 (Photo credit: Hodinkee Shop) Seiko 5, Ref. 6119-8100, circa 1968: This second reference is almost indistinguishable from the previous reference, with slight changes to the dial, a chrome case and “Seiko 5” on the dial. It has a chrome-plated case and a steel caseback. Issued watch of Kyle Dean, who served in Vietnam in 1969. (Photo Credit: Running Recon: A Photo Journey with SOG Special Ops Along the Ho Chi Minh Trail) Ref. 7005-8030, circa 1970: Round in shape and with a black dial, the third reference has a date only feature and was issued in smaller numbers until MACV-SOG’s deactivation in April 1972. It is highly sought after by collectors. CISO Deputy Director Conrad “Ben” Baker and his personal 7005-8030 (Photo Credit: Jason Hardy) In addition to these references, there are indications that other models were issued by CISO, including at least one documented 1968 Seiko 6106-8100 dive watch. Meyer also confirmed that many of his comrades purchased Rolex watches from the PX that were to be used as a potential bartering tool during escape and evasion. While the prices of the MACV-SOG Seikos have recently skyrocketed to well over $1,000, for those interested in purchasing a modern version, the SNK381K1 is as close as it gets. At 37mm, it is smaller than most modern watches, but throw it on a green nylon strap, add a tactical compass, and you can play the part. Tilt, thank you for sharing a part of your story with us and for everything you have done and continue to do for our community. It was an honor to meet you in person and present you with the “W.O.E.” coin. This Dispatch is in honor of the 1,582 Americans who are Missing and Unaccounted-for from the Vietnam War, of whom over 50 were Green Beret’s from the Secret War. If you would like to support them and their families, please consider a donation to the National League of POW/MIA Families.   -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE.   Read Part II: SOG Seikos - Vietnam MACV-SOG Watches, Part II