Civilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces, and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can—and probably will at some point—serve as stand-alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any other questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll do our best to answer them in a future article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I”, “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II”, and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part III”. Is it OK for civilians to wear military watches or does this qualify as “stolen valor”? (Photo Credit: Panerai) Many watch brands and references are centered around a specific narrative and culture of professionals: the Omega Speedmaster and space exploration, the Rolex Submariner and diving, and IWC’s aviation watches.  With this marketing, there comes some form of cosplaying or larping and in general, this is fine and part of the fun of the passion. I will likely never travel to space, but I like the idea of wearing a watch that has and has been designed for that purpose. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Additionally, we have covered many military-inspired brands like Bremont, Marathon, and Sangin, which are intended for use by active duty and former military members. While they maintain a strong customer base in these communities, of course not all of the customers are tier-one operators. Overall, there is no problem with this and it is by no means stolen valor. “Military-inspired” is synonymous with tough gear that is meant to be used. However, I do struggle with commercially available watches with a branch or unit insignia on the dial. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Top Gun, Marathon’s USMC GSAR, and of course Panerai’s “Navy SEAL” watches. While I still don’t think this is stolen valor as such and don’t have a problem with people wearing them, I personally would not want to wear a watch with an insignia on the dial that I have no direct connection to, i.e. a unit I did not serve in. (Photo Credit: Marathon Watch) With “unit watches,” it gets more complicated and, in my opinion, depends on the specific unit watch and how much time has elapsed since it was worn by those who earned it. In general, I think watches with a specific unit insignia on the dial or caseback should be worn by those who earned them, not those who can afford to pay the absurd premium they command at auction. Customized Tudors, Omega, Rolex, and even Breitlings have sold for well over $40,000, a remarkable number. That said, at a certain point these watches do become collectibles and it is fine to collect them. Where that line is, is highly subjective. What was your go-to EDC bag when you were at CIA? W.O.E. in the Middle East, Sandstorm EDC bag. As a Case Officer operating overseas, your job is to recruit spies and steal secrets. This calling requires frequent travel and operational activity in a range of environments, from diplomatic functions in European capitals to dark alleys in war-torn countries. A good EDC bag should support your persona (cover) and not immediately peg you as an American. This obviously rules out the tacti-cool bag with Velcro for your Punisher morale patch. While I was at CIA, I relied on “issued backpacks” that were purchased overseas and modified by CIA as well as man purses I acquired myself, most notably the Canvas Andrew Work Bag from Sandstorm, Kenya, a bag I still use regularly today. Sandstorm Kenya The fictitious representation of “Q” in James Bond is largely a figment of Hollywood imagination, but gear and spy gadgets have been an integral part of espionage since the early days of the Office of Strategic Services.  Prior to an overseas assignment, CIA Case Officers visit an obscure warehouse outside of Washington D.C. and are issued a range of gear from disguises and backpacks. For most assignments, the gear is not as exciting as it sounds, but there are some deep disguises available, as made famous by former Chief of Disguise for CIA, Jonna Mendez. Case Officer’s EDC The key for EDC bags at CIA is to use something that won’t make you stick out as an American, i.e. the ubiquitous North Face and Patagonia backpack. I spent much of my overseas time living and working in Africa and fell in love with a boutique manufacturer called Sandstorm, which makes canvas and leather bags out of repurposed safari tent material. The bags are durable and classy, at home in the back of a dusty Land Cruiser just as much as a first-class lounge in Amsterdam. They aren’t cheap, but nothing good is. If you are really trying to blend in, or at least not stick out, my advice is to buy clothing and bags locally, or at least outside of the United States or your home country. Save the tacti-cool bags for range day and family trips to Chucky Cheese.  Many microbrands you cover use watches or parts made in China, is this ok? I’m a red-blooded American and in an ideal world, all tools would be made in America, watches made in Switzerland, and Whiskey distilled in Tennessee. That said, with the decline in American/British manufacturing and watchmaking, the reality is there are some great watches (and tools) that are designed in the US/UK, but manufactured in China and East Asia. In my opinion, many of these watches offer great value for the customer and I own some of them. Elliot Brown Holton on Glomar Explorer strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Obviously, there is a stigma with “Made in China” and in some ways, this is warranted but the fact is that the country, and the region in general, has specialized in high-quality manufacturing at a cost-effective price. The computer I am writing this on, and the device you are reading this on, are made in China. There has been an effort to “reshore” manufacturing and watchmaking back to the United States, but much of these efforts have come up lacking, with customer complaints about price and quality control. The key here is transparency. Designed/assembled/sewn in the USA can mean very different things and many manufacturers work to obscure the origin of products with clever language. I’m not saying that brands should lead with “Made in China,” or stamp the case back, but they should be at least open about it. (Photo Credit: Atelier DE GRIFF) There is a lot of smoke and mirrors in the watch and EDC industry and even “Swiss-made” means that the watch is assembled and tested in Switzerland but not that all the parts originate there. Legally, “Swiss Made” means “60% of production costs are generated in Switzerland, and at least 50% by value of all components is Swiss-made”, which gives a lot of wiggle room. While I won’t dime them out here, there are plenty of “Swiss watches” with significant inputs from China. When you’re traveling abroad as a civilian with an Agency background, what is your EDC? Case Officer’s EDC, just the essentials. First of all, I think people put way too much thought into “Every Day Carry” and not enough into mindset, training, and physical fitness. I am a minimalist and generally carry the same thing I did at the Agency, no crazy whizzbang tactical tools, just the essentials: pen and paper, folding knife, over $300 in cash, passport, tourniquets, and a Surefire Defender flashlight. An external battery is a necessity also. Check out a past Dispatch on “CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC” for more on my reasoning and experience with these tools. My personal EDC hasn't changed much in two decades and it likely won't change anytime soon. Assuming I can’t afford the real thing, how do you feel about homage watches as opposed to  “fake” or “replica” watches? We wrote an article about the counterfeit watch industry (Read HERE) and several people asked what my thoughts are on “homage” watches like a Seiko modified to look like a Rolex Submariner or GMT. I don’t necessarily have a problem with these, but I would never buy one personally. It's hard for me to determine where the line between homage and fake is and I wouldn’t someone to spot me from across the room thinking I am wearing a Rolex, then come to find out it's a homage. That said, there are some “homage brands” like Tornek-Rayville, Benrus, and Vertex, that essentially brought these brands back to life, and that is something I can get behind (I own a Tornek and love it). (Photo Credit: Modbrand) Congrats on your first video and the launch of the W.O.E. YouTube channel. How did you come up with this unique format? Our core competency at W.O.E. is storytelling, offering readers/viewers insight into our community through the prism of watches. The goal is to inform and entertain and while long-form articles (ie the W.O.E. Dispatch) are our preferred medium, the sad fact is that most people don’t read more than a couple paragraphs, preferring to take in bite-sized chunks of engaging video and photographic content. We knew video was inevitable and have been working on this for over a year. The school solution in launching a YouTube channel is to have an influencer sit in front of a ring light and offer spicy clickbait takes and “Top 10 lists” of the best watches. At W.O.E. we always aim to do something different so we decided to take the concept of our Dispatch articles and convert them into mini-episodes. This concept will evolve as we gain more resources. We have been overwhelmed with the response and plan to continue to release an episode every 2 weeks through the end of the year. Check out our first four videos HERE. What’s the best spy movie from a former Case Officer’s point of view? I like thrillers/spy movies as much as the next guy. Jason Bourne, James Bond, and Red Sparrow are all fun and entertaining experiences, but they are far from the reality of true espionage work which is months of hard work and lots of writing, punctuated by exciting moments and “cool” operations. The fact is most intelligence work is boring and if the movies were accurate . . . they wouldn’t be that interesting. Spy Game is one of my favorite movies and is entertaining, but also has threads of truth, particularly the training and mentorship of Tom Bishop, played by Brad Pitt. It’s still Hollywood, but a great watch, nonetheless. Argo and Charlie Wilson's War are interesting looks at historic CIA operations, however, I would recommend starting with the books. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Good Shepherd capture the methodical aspect of the wilderness of mirrors of the spy world, but also aren’t as exciting as the Bourne series. The Recruit is an interesting look at the training pipeline at “The Farm” and one that many from my generation watched multiple times prior to training. (Photo Credit: Black Hawk Down) Movies like Zero Dark Thirty and Black Hawk Down are less historically accurate, but interesting watches nonetheless. Regardless, if you want to learn about these events and what really happened, I would recommend reading the books first. Our W.O.E. Reading List (read HERE) is a great place to start. Last but certainly not least, Spies Like Us is a comedy with zero historical accuracy but does have a real cult following in CIA. “Doctor” can be heard in just about every CIA Station around the globe. Don’t sleep on it. If I’m down to two or three watches that all meet my criteria and price range, how do I decide? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) One of the most common questions I get is people looking for help trying to decide between two or three watches they want to buy. Sometimes they are very different—like a Tudor FXD and a Breitling Aerospace—and sometimes they are similar references from the same brand. The answer is always the same, go with your gut. Continue to watch videos and read about the watches, but most importantly try them on at the store or borrow one from your watch friends. This is such a personal decision and nothing I say should impact your choice. Ultimately, go with your gut, and your budget.  Is there any watch that’s a grail for you, something you’d trade your entire collection for? W.O.E.’s South African-issued Tudor Submariner reference 7016. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Yes, no. A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it. Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It’s more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Pictured above is my South African-issued Tudor Submariner ref 7016 from approximately 1974, which is (was?) my grail watch. I acquired this piece from Ross Povey last year and it is my “prized possession,” I will never sell it. A Rolex Milsub is another grail for me, but I wouldn’t trade my entire collection for one. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Moving forward, there are plenty of watches I would love to acquire including a Rolex MilSub and an Israeli-issued Shayetet 13 Tudor Sub 7928. That said, there is nothing I would trade my entire collection for. Many of my watches have personal value that transcends monetary value. The Breitling Aerospace I received from King Abdullah of Jordan (Read HERE) is probably worth a few thousand on the market, but to me, it is priceless. I have too many memories with that piece to let it go.    How do I buy a watch for my wife? (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) This is a tricky one. I have purchased Mrs. W.O.E. several watches including a Cartier Tank, Black Bay 58, and a Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse. Despite my best efforts to woo her into the world of watch nerds, she couldn't care less. The fact is that women have more competition for their attention (and money) than men. While this is a generalization I am probably going to catch some smoke for, women are bombarded by messaging for and tend to covet handbags, shoes, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces whereas men traditionally have fewer personal items to consider. The watch industry has been desperate to acquire women customers and has made some headway, but it's still heavily tilted toward men. My advice is simple, bring your significant other to a watch store to try on a range of watches. If something speaks to them, then follow that thread. If not, don’t push it.    What is your favorite strap and why? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) When it comes to W.O.E. products, I am our first customer and if it's not something I would use, then it doesn’t get made. That said, each of our product lines is very discrete and developed for different use cases. Just because you like one of our straps doesn’t mean you will like them all. The Glomar Explorer probably gets the most wrist time, particularly in warmer months. It’s such a versatile strap and works particularly well with both the Blue and Black FXDs, but also virtually any tool watch. With the new tightened strap keeper, there is no chance it is coming off your wrist.  Sizing can greatly vary on these straps, depending on the watch and your wrist size. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Second, I am a big fan of leather on field watches and divers and wear the Jedburgh, particularly on my older vintage pieces and watches like the Arabic Seiko.  From the start, it is a very comfortable strap with a low profile. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Lastly, I love all of our Five Eyes straps and wear them regularly. But when it comes to single-pass straps, I often defer to our past collaborations with Zulu Alpha and recently have been wearing the W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 a lot. They are expensive, there is no way to sugarcoat that, but the quality of the hardware and fabric are night and day in my opinion. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The main point here is to find a strap that works for you.  There are so many variables in watches, wrist size, and preferences, that there is no one size fits all. I encourage you to read the (over 1,000) reviews on each product page and see what other people's experiences have been. Remember, it’s much easier to buy and try a lot of different straps than it is with watches… What current Rolex model family would you buy assuming no wait list and cost isn’t an issue? I am a big fan of Rolex, particularly vintage and neo-vintage Submariners and GMTs. I am a simple man and give me any Sub or GMT with an aluminum bezel and drilled lug holes and I will be happy. I have “expressed interest” in the new Black/Gray Rolex GMT Master II, and would love to get one, but I am not losing sleep over it. That said, the one piece I would kill for (not actually) is the Titanium Yachtmaster. However, these pieces are almost impossible to get and I am not willing to pay the excessive premium on the secondary market or play silly games with ADs to get one. I am ok with that. Watch buying advice? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Still, the most common question we get is on watch buying advice from newbies and experts alike. While the W.O.E. platform is geared towards telling stories from our community, we have considerable resources to answer these questions.  Please check out the following articles if you are new to the world of watches. Advice for Buying a Watch Best Watches Under $5,000 - Ask the Experts Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts Best Military Watches If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. – This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can – and probably will at some point–serve as stand alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any more questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll address them in a following article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I” and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II” 22 Special Air Service Breitling Avenger Seawolf with the SAS insignia at 9 o'clock. (Courtesy SAS Melvyn Downes) W.O.E. recently posted a SAS Breitling Avenger with the Special Air Services (SAS) insignia on the dial, do unit watches cause OPSEC issues? We have extensively covered “Unit Watches” from various Intelligence and Special Operations organizations and profiled programs from Tudor, Bremont and Omega.  To summarize, a unit watch is one that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military. Civilian organizations inside the NatSec space can also receive these watches, but the term “Unit Watch” almost exclusively applies to military units. Customizations to the watch can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or a custom engraving on the caseback.  While more honorific in nature, we have documented many instances of these watches worn operationally overseas.  This has caused many to question if the watch itself is an “Operational Security” (OPSEC) vulnerability.  If an individual is captured, wouldn't the “bad guys” know he was a member of the SAS? British SAS G Squadron Richard Williams wearing a custom 22 Special Air Service Breitling Avenger Seawolf in Iraq. The fact of the matter is that most elite units (even Tier One SpecOps) operate overtly most of the time.  While deployed to a War Zone, they’re generally wearing uniforms with their nation’s flags on their plate carriers and are not “under cover.”  While elite units and intelligence organizations certainly have operations where they operate under some form of cover, including posing as businessmen, most of the time this isn’t the case for someone in an “assaulter” role or even CIA Paramilitary Officer.  If an individual is operating under a “Non-Official Cover” (i.e. not a government official) then they certainly would not wear a Unit Watch.  They would pick a watch to match their persona.  Given the rapid proliferation of digital timepieces, many “operators” choose to wear a G-Shock, Suunto or other digital watch while operational, and reserve the unit watch for the garrison. What was the most dangerous thing you did at CIA?  The job of a Case Officer is to collect intelligence– to steal secrets through recruiting and running human assets (“spies”).  It's more dangerous than the average trade, but it's certainly not like it is in the movies. I never got into a fistfight in an elevator, a high-speed chase through a European capital, or performed a risky surreptitious entry into a Russian oligarch's dacha.  Most of my work was discreetly meeting with assets and liaison services in cafes, back alleys, and hotel rooms to collect intelligence. W.O.E. in Afghanistan, early 2000s.  W.O.E. in Sudan, early 2000s, Breitling Aerospace on the wrist. The easy answer to this question would be “warzone” assignments, where during the Global War on Terror, IEDs, shootings, and kidnappings were a real and present threat.  That said, in a warzone, Case Officers carry guns, wear body armor and generally operate alongside GRS and/or paramilitary officers.  The most dangerous thing I did was operate alone in Africa, and in one specific capital where crime, terrorism, and counterintelligence risks from the local service were deemed “critical.”  During this assignment, I did my cover job during the day and then at night went out on the street alone and without a phone (read CIA Officers and Apple Watches).  After a multi-hour Surveillance Detection Route, I met developmentals and recruited assets in hotels, bars, dark alleys, and cars hunkered down in low-trafficked areas of town.  Most of the time I was unarmed, as being caught with a firearm would have posed significant problems for my cover (see CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC).  The risk from terror groups and the local intelligence service was significant, but the constant exposure to the streets, and everything that comes with that, night after night over a multi-year assignment dramatically increased the probability of carjacking and violent crime, something that can generally be avoided for the average tourist or business traveler. Do you only wear your watches on straps?  How do you feel about bracelets? (Photo Credit: James Rupley) It is no secret that W.O.E. loves straps. This has led our own line of leather and nylon straps that we designed. I constantly rotate my watches through a plethora of straps and it’s a great way to change up the look and feel of a watch.  That said, it is hard to beat a well-designed bracelet and I wear my watches regularly on the original bracelet.  Rolex Oyster and Jubilee bracelets are incredibly comfortable and are probably my favorite.  Most of the watches in my collection, including Tudor, IWC, and Breitling also all come on great bracelets.  The one exception is Seiko and particularly the Arabic Seiko: the bracelet feels cheap and I threw that one in the trash as soon as I got it.  So in short, yes, I am a big fan of bracelets.  After wearing a watch on a nylon or leather strap for a while, it is always refreshing going back to the original bracelet. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) How do you store watches and do you use a watch winder? If you have more than two to three watches of value, you need to invest in a safe that is mounted to the wall or floor.  Frankly, no matter what, it is worth acquiring a fireproof safe for valuables, firearms, and important documents.  For years I have kept my watches in affordable (read cheap) plastic cases and put them inside the safe.  Like all of our designs, I have made them for myself and the 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case is exactly the type of case I have used for years (but much better quality than the ones I used to purchase off Amazon).   There are some fantastic high-end watch cases and watch boxes (like Bosphorous Leather) that are true works of art, but it is hard for me to justify spending that type of money on something that will mostly sit in a safe.  There are also some really cool “display cases” on the market, but unless you have a walk-in safe, this is a sign to the goons that reads “take me.” Bosphorus Leather “Watch Collector Case” (Photo Credit: Bosphorus Leather) I have never used a watch winder.  There is conflicting information on whether a watch winder is good or bad for watches but it generally seems like if you have new watches you should be okay.  That said, many of my watches are vintage and I would not want to keep them winding every day. It’s simply not necessary.  However, the main reason I do not use a watch winder is cost.  A 4 Piece Wolf watch winder starts at over $2,000.  I would much rather use that money to purchase a pre-owned Breitling or Tudor or multiple Seikos.  Additionally, I actually enjoy setting the time on my watch each time I pick one up to wear it.  It’s something of a ritual to take a few minutes to wind the watch and set the time.  And yes, I always set the correct time on my watches. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In purchasing a pre-owned Rolex, do "Box and Papers" matter? Vintage watch dealer Eric Wind has famously said that, "Saying you only want to buy a vintage watch if it has the original box and papers is the equivalent of walking around a high school with a ‘Kick Me’ sign taped to your back—except it says, ‘Rip Me Off.’ ”  Given his breadth of experience, I will take this at face value. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) That said, I do enjoy having a “full set” when possible because it’s a neat historical addition to the watch, but I would not necessarily pay the extra premium for a piece of paper that can easily be forged.  A few years ago I purchased an early 1980s “Root Beer” Rolex GMT Master 1675/3 with the original box and papers from the original owner.  The receipt shows the exact day and store where he purchased the watch in the Caribbean.  It’s a piece of living history and part of the story of that watch.  While I rarely look at the paperwork, it is a something I treasure because it’s part of the ephemeral nature of ownership and a sign that the watch has seen plenty before–and hopefully after me.  One of these boxes is fake, can you tell which?  “Box and papers” can add $1,000-2,000+ to the price of a pre-owned watch, and for me, this is simply not worth it.  Of all the things to fake, the papers are the easiest to forge, and boxes are often paired with pre-owned watches and it’s difficult to determine originality. What are some good fiction spy books? There are plenty of great classic espionage fiction authors a la John le Carre and Rudyard Kipling; however, if you are looking for contemporary works, my favorite authors are Jason Matthews (former Case Officer and Breitling owner), David McCloskey (former CIA Analyst), Jack Carr (former Navy SEAL) and David Ignatius (journalist and columnist with Washington Post).  With the exception of Ignatius, all of these authors come from the IC/SpecOps and have real world experience.   (Photo Credit: James Rupley) It’s impossible to write about our community with authority if you have not lived it, and each one of these pieces contain little “if you know, you know” nuggets that cannot be faked.  Further, the fiction genre often allows the authors to include details that otherwise would have been removed by the CIA’s publication review. (there have been multiple items in the above books that were removed from my work because they were considered “classified.”) Movie adaptation of Red Sparrow Additionally, it will come as no surprise that watches are mentioned and often play a central role in all/most of these pieces. Red Sparrow trilogy- Former CIA officer Jason Matthews Agents of Innocence - David Ignatious  Damascus Station- Former CIA Analyst David McCloskey Terminal List series- Former Navy SEAL For military fiction and the future of warfare, check out 2034 and Ghost Fleet.  What do you think about the recent Moonswatch/Blancpain releases? I don’t think about them. Why has the W.O.E. platform been so successful?  What advice do you have for growing my Online Journal/Instagram page? W.O.E.’s “quick” growth and high engagement is largely due to the fact that it’s such a niche topic, with broad appeal.  But the real “secret” is authenticity.  This is a passion and a hobby and I never set out for this to be a business.  I genuinely enjoy researching topics and creating products for our community.  In fact, I don’t post on topics that will get high engagement, instead I write about things that I find interesting.  A successful article is one that I enjoyed researching and writing, not one that gets a lot of likes and comments.  The community (you) is not stupid and can see through anything that is artificial, fabricated, or click bait. If you are interested in launching a podcast, newsletter or social media page, my advice is to identify a niche topic that you are passionate about and have a unique perspective on and double down on that. Lastly, this takes time.  While W.O.E. might seem like an overnight success, I have put a lot of effort into cultivating this content to provide this resource to our community. Like with anything, consistency is key. Would you wear a fake watch/Rolex? I can think of very few instances where wearing a fake Rolex is acceptable. In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?” several commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering.  The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a $5-10k watch, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial.  Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. Seized fake Rolex by US Customs and Border Protection I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe.  This is something that could potentially make sense, but is not necessarily something I would advise.  If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches, and may come back for retribution.  No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai.  I have never worn it or even taken out the links to fit it to my wrist.  Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. How accurate is your portrayal of your life and W.O.E.? When it comes to long-form writing, all of my stories and personal anecdotes are 100% accurate.  I have several friends from the community that read the Dispatch regularly and my Signal messages would immediately light up if I started making up there I was stories for clout.  Of course, I do change times/dates/locations and minor details for the sake of anonymity (or if the CIA’s Prepublication Review Board advises I do so). In many ways, being anonymous allows me to be more honest in my writing.  I recently posted a picture of my entire watch collection.  This could easily be construed as bragging about material possessions and is something I would never do on a personal social media account.  In fact, most of my close friends don’t even know about the number of watches I own or the value of my watch collection.  Anonymity permits me to engage in a form of honesty that would otherwise be self-corrected.  While my portrayal of my life and thoughts are genuine, I do think a lot of people interpret this as a persona of something I am not.  I am not a commando or Jason Bourne.  I am a (relatively) normal guy who is fortunate enough to do some abnormal things with extraordinary people.  For that I am very grateful. What is the future of Watches of Espionage? Our goal for Watches of Espionage is to become the number one resource for military, intelligence, and NatSec content and products as it relates to timepieces. Long-form written articles are our main product, and we intend to keep this free and open for everyone to learn from. In 2023, we set the foundation for this expansion with the establishment of the website, development of some incredible products, and expansion of written form content. We raised $24,800 for Third Option Foundation and we have more fundraisers scheduled for this year that will be both meaningful and interesting. We have resisted offers from advertisers so that we can maintain complete editorial control of our content.  Remaining authentic and representing our community respectfully is key to our past and future success and we will not sell out for a quick buck.  W.O.E is and always will be an enthusiast platform solely for our community, and it's not for everyone. Over the coming year, we hope to expand the number of articles per week and potentially move into other mediums.  Regarding products, we are happy to now have W.O.E. products in stock and we are working on some new and exciting projects for 2024, including some EDC items.  We are also still in the initial stages of producing W.O.E. content in a print medium, something that we are being methodical about to make sure we get it right. We appreciate those who have supported W.O.E., as this support will give us the opportunity for increased quality content and products. As always, thank you for the support.  This would not be possible without you. Stay tuned, -W.O.E. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   -- This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. READ NEXT: Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts

In this edition of the Dispatch, we answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can even serve as stand alone stories– and probably will at some point–but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any more questions, please ask in the comments section and we will address next time. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I” What advice do you have for buying watches? There are more resources than ever before on watches, and if you are reading this then you’ve already demonstrated that you’re pretty far down the rabbit hole.  Here are a few tips below for those looking to get into watches.  Also check out our previous Dispatch on “Best watches under $1,000” as a good starting point. Buy what makes you happy; no one else cares what you are wearing and 99.9% of people will not notice the watch you have on your wrist. (This one is cliché but it’s entirely true.) Buy the watch you can afford. You won't be happy if you spend more than you can afford, as “buyer’s remorse” is real and can undermine the sense of satisfaction from wearing the watch. Don't buy for investment. Your watch may appreciate, but buy with the expectation you will wear it until you die (and a loved one will wear it after you die). Values are generally trending downward in the watch world anyway. That’s not what they’re made for, and treating a watch like a financial instrument takes away something from the hobby. When in doubt, stick with a known brand: Seiko, Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Tudor, JLC, IWC, Bremont, Patek, etc.  There are some great micro brands out there (like Tornek-Rayville), but also a lot with smoke and mirrors, especially in the “tactical” space. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Any worthwhile watch company wasn’t either. Buy the seller and build a relationship with that person. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.  A lot of people have had great experiences with Ebay and other online forums, but there is something about building a relationship with the actual person selling the watch that makes it special. Plus, it’s very easy to get burned on Ebay. It’s less easy to get burned by someone you know and trust. Take your time. Do your research. Even if you have the money to buy the watch you want right away, spend time learning about the different variations and history of the reference or brand. This will likely change your outlook and make you appreciate the watch you end up with even more. As a closing remark, don't feel like you need a "luxury watch," a ~$500 watch can be just as meaningful as a $5,000 watch. How do I organize Unit watch? After our “Tudors of Espionage” piece, we received a lot of queries on how to organize a “unit watch” for a specific military, law enforcement or intelligence organization.  We have heard from our industry contacts that companies across the board have received an increase in these requests.  This is cool, because “unit watches” are at the heart of watch culture in the National Security community and closely tied to the idea of “Watches of Espionage.” To review, a unit watch is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization inside the military.  Customizations can include the unit’s insignia or motto on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. Occasionally, markings can be applied to the side of the case as well.   We will continue to go deeper on various unit watch programs (like Bremont Military and Special Project's Division) and guide those looking to organize a custom watch for their organization, but in the meantime, here are some initial steps: Do it: To accomplish anything in the government, you need an internal champion.  Be that champion. Nothing will happen otherwise. Build Internal Support:  For most custom watch programs, you need a minimum of 50 pieces. It needs to make sense for a manufacturer to tool up to produce a custom watch, which incurs a significant cost on their end.  Start building support within the organization and gauge interest from other unit members.  Take the opportunity to educate non-watch members why a watch is a great way to commemorate a moment in time and one's service.  Seek approval from the unit/command leadership if needed. Explore Brands: There are some great brands that provide unit watches. Each one has its pros and cons.  Decide on 3-4 that work for your unit's culture. As a starting point, look at Breitling, IWC, Omega, Tudor, Bremont Watch Company, Elliot Brown, CWC, Seiko, and Sangin Instruments. Contact the brands:  For larger brands (Tudor, IWC, Omega, etc) visit a local boutique/Authorized Dealer and explain what you're looking to accomplish.  You need someone on the inside to help shepherd you through the process, as it can often be opaque.  For smaller brands (Elliot Brown, CWC, Sangin) you should reach out directly through the website.  Some companies like Bremont have formal “Special Projects” programs and make it seamless; others are more based on personal relationships.  Ideally, have a specific idea of what you are looking for, i.e. a specific reference and design/location of the insignia. Be Patient:  These things take time.  Having spoken with some of the individuals who have shepherded Tudor pieces, these projects can take over a year for delivery. Automatic vs Quartz? There is nothing wrong with quartz movements, and anyone who says otherwise is a nerd.  Not a good “watch nerd,” just a nerd.  In general I prefer an automatic timepiece because I appreciate the craftsmanship it takes to produce an automatic movement.  Operationally, there is a strong argument for an automatic movement, as batteries will always die at the wrong time.   That said, some of the greatest military watches are quartz: CWC, Elliot Brown, and Marathon, not to mention the venerable Breitling Aerospace.  A quartz movement is likely more accurate than an automatic movement and some of these pieces are just as fashionable and robust.  There is something satisfying about picking up a watch and knowing that the date and time are set. They both have their place in the watch world.  Again, these are tools and you choose the right tool for the task. Does the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB) censor your writing? The CIA does not “censor” my writing when it comes to beliefs, opinions, or watch content.  It does review my writing (including this piece) to ensure that it does not contain classified information.  All current and former CIA officers have a lifelong obligation to protect classified national security information, and one aspect of this lifelong commitment is submitting writing to the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board (PCRB).  This is a good thing, as it protects every party involved.  Overall, I have found the review process relatively smooth.  Like most “formers” who write about the intelligence field, I have a general understanding of what we can and cannot say and there have been no major issues with the PCRB.  There are occasionally times when the PCRB will remove a location, word, or sentence, but overall it has not impacted the core points of any of the stories I’ve written. As a private citizen, I am free to express my own opinions about the government, CIA, or watches, and I have not heard of any cases where a former CIA officer’s opinions or writings were “censored” in the traditional sense.  It appears as though the CIA has made a conscious decision to be forward-leaning by allowing formers to write (relatively) openly about their experiences.  This is also a good thing.  My personal opinion is that the Intelligence Community should protect secrets, but should also be open in educating the public on what we do.  There are a lot of misconceptions about the CIA and we are in a position to dispel those myths and educate people on the reality. By writing semi-openly, we can achieve that.  Do you sleep with your watch on? (We have received this question a lot.) I do not. Does anyone? That's weird.  I actually find myself taking my watch off often when I am at home, when typing on the computer, doing chores etc.  I haven't really put much thought into why this is but I have never slept with a watch on, and I don’t even put it on my bedside table unless traveling.  Generally, I take my watch off in the bathroom or office and have been using a W.O.E. EDC Valet in both. If anyone does sleep with their watch on, I would love to hear their rationale in the comments. Thoughts on tactical micro-brands?  Are you a poser if you did not serve in the military? When you buy a watch–any watch– you are buying into that brand and the community and reputation the brand commands.  This is especially true with micro brands/tactical brands. There are some great micro brands/tactical brands out there and several were highlighted in the “Best Watches Under $1,000” Dispatch.  That said, I do not have much first hand experience with them, so I will reserve judgment.  If you are interested in a tactical brand, I encourage you to really do your research.   In my opinion, Sangin Instruments is one of, if not the, leader in this space.  Started by a Marine Raider, they make great watches but perhaps more importantly, they’ve built a true community around the brand.  Though largely driven by the active duty military and veterans, one does not have to be a veteran to take part and you are by no means a poser if you support this brand. One other that I have also personally owned is RESCO Instruments, which was started by a former SEAL. Similar to Sangin, they have strong support from the active duty military and make a robust toolwatch. Starting a watch company is hard, really hard.  There is a reason the top watch brands have been around for over a century.  Do your research: many of these companies have good intentions, slick websites and lots of tactical dudes wearing them, but actually building a company like Sangin and RESCO is not easy or for the faint hearted. Final thought, any brand that gets you interested in watches is a good thing.  If you like the aesthetic of a watch and the guys building a brand, buy one. Try it out.  It’s all just a part of the larger process of going deeper into the hobby.  Favorite city to visit? Istanbul, Turkey; Beirut, Lebanon; Cape Town, South Africa. If you had to choose only one watch to keep forever, what would it be? From an emotional standpoint, it would likely be the titanium Royal Jordanian Breitling Aerospace, a gift from His Majesty King Abdullah II bin Al-Hussein, but from a purely aesthetic and functional perspective, it would be my Rolex GMT-Master II, an early 2000s black and red “Coke” ref 16710. For years, I have said that the Rolex GMT–any execution of the watch– is the ultimate CIA Case Officer’s watch– a classy and refined tool that signals to others you are a man of culture, yet don’t mind getting your hands dirty. A Case Officer has been described as a “PhD that can win in a bar fight,” and that fictional person would wear a Rolex GMT.  While this is less true today with the astronomical prices of “new” pre-owned models, there is still a lot of truth to it.  When traveling, the quick-change date and GMT functionality are useful for telling the time back home, and a simple wrist check is easier than pulling out a phone. The watch also captures the spirit of the often-romanticized ‘50s Rolex GMT, originally developed in the 1950s for commercial Pan Am pilots. I have an old “Root Beer” ref 16753, but the newer model is more robust and still maintains some of the vintage aspects, including drilled lug holes and the aluminum bezel.  The “Pepsi” of course is a classic, but there is something about the red and black that I have always gravitated towards.  It is just different enough to make it stand out but still retains that timeless appeal of the classic bi-color bezel formula.  How has your interest in watches evolved over time? My personal interest in watches has evolved greatly over the past year as my collection has expanded. My collection and my interest grew together in tandem.  I’m still interested in modern tool watches, but have gone down the vintage military-issued watch rabbit hole.  I recently acquired a South African issued Tudor Milsub ref 7016 and a US Navy UDT/SEAL-issued Tudor 7928.  Both of these watches are “grail” pieces for me, and for the time being I am satisfied and have so much history to learn and uncover when it comes to the pieces I already own.  I will continue to be on the lookout for unique watches with military provenance.  There is something special about owning a piece of history and being able to wear it on your wrist. What are your thoughts on watch modifications? I have never modified a watch before, but this is something I would really like to explore in the future.  The idea of taking a Tudor Black Bay 58 or an Arabic Seiko as a blank canvas and personalizing it is incredibly intriguing.  This is still a controversial practice for much of the traditional watch community.  George Bamford originally made a name for himself by customizing Rolex watches into unconventional designs, much to the chagrin of the Swiss luxury brands. Customized “Commando” Rolex Submariner (Bamford Watch Department) That said, I am not attracted to customizing a timepiece to look like another timepiece, aka a “Homage” customization.  If this makes you excited, then I am happy for you, but it is not for me. Before selling out and going corporate, our friend and spiritual mentor Cole Pennington wrote a piece for Hodinkee defending homage pieces.  I generally agree with everything Cole writes, but when it comes to this topic I respectfully disagree.  Cole points out that there is a “big difference” between homage pieces and counterfeits, but in reality whether produced by a manufacturer or individually customized, the difference is often not that big.  I would rather purchase (and wear) a Seiko that looks like a Seiko, than a Seiko that has been retrofitted to look like a Rolex. What is the future of Watches of Espionage? What new products and will they be in stock? W.O.E is and always will be an enthusiast platform.  The reason we are successful is that we are passionate about watches (and espionage) and that’s our core fundamental driving force–not profiting from the watch community.  Our goal for Watches of Espionage is to become the number one resource for military, intelligence and national security content as it relates to timepieces.  We have just scratched the surface and have a lot more to explore. We have made a lot of progress over the past year, with the launch of the website and initial W.O.E. products.  Our main focus is building a community of like-minded individuals who appreciate history and an interest in timepieces.  Content will continue to be our main focus and our intention is to keep this free and open to everyone.   Much of the watch industry works on a “pay to play” model where brands sponsor content or invite journalists to “exclusive” press trips which inevitably influences any potential watch review. Our goal is to avoid this model and remain an impartial third party in the watch industry. We will support brands and people who are doing good things.  If we enter into a partnership with a brand, it will be on our terms and will not be just a transaction for cash to exploit our relationship with the community. Obviously this takes significant time and money and will only increase as we continue to expand.  After thoughtful consideration, we moved into the product space, and have found this equally fulfilling to create novel and exciting products for our community.  We appreciate those who have supported W.O.E.-- as this support will give us the opportunity for increased quality content.  Over the coming year, we hope to expand the number of articles per week and potentially move into other mediums.  Regarding products, we are working on some new and exciting projects and hope to have some in stock at all points.  We are in the initial steps on a coffee table book that we hope to be available in 2024. This year, we have raised over $23,000 for Third Option Foundation and we have more fundraisers scheduled for this year that will be both meaningful and interesting. As always, thank you for the support.  This would not be possible without you. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight *Unless otherwise noted, pictures are of W.O.E.'s personal collection by James Rupley.

In this edition of the Dispatch, we address some common questions we get about W.O.E with an in-depth response. Many of these responses can even serve as standalone stories– and probably will at some point, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage.  READ PART II HERE What’s a good entry-level watch? What’s a good watch under $1,000? This is the most common question we get, and we love this question because it suggests that the W.O.E. platform is opening up people to the world of mechanical watches, something that we are clearly passionate about. If your takeaway from W.O.E. is that you need a Rolex to be a cool guy, you’re missing the point. We believe the man makes the watch, not the other way around.  A badass wearing a Hublot is still a badass, just as a dweeb wearing a Rolex MilSub is still just a dweeb. It’s about who you are, not the watch you’re wearing.  Read: Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask The Experts (Photo Credit: James Rupley) There are plenty of great watches under $1,000 and other publications have compiled lists that feature both established manufacturers and micro-brands alike that offer serious value.  That said, our answer to this question is simple: Seiko. If you like “Watches of Espionage” then you will love this brand. When it comes to tools actually used in the field, you’re likely to find a Seiko on a professional’s wrist. Seiko, after all, is the “Toyota of watches”– they’re cheap and reliable utilitarian tools. For the same reasons Toyotas are a common sight in modern conflict zones, Seikos have adorned the wrists of hard men in hard places for decades. If you’re looking at dipping your toe in the proverbial pool of mechanical watches, this is a great place to start, and even end. Arabic Dial Seiko (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The follow-up question is always, "which model?" We hesitate to provide an answer to this because it’s a deeply personal choice.  You can scroll through our collection and others and see where we have landed, but it’s best to take some time and look through the website to see what speaks to you and what’s within your budget. The best way to land on the right reference is to find a Seiko dealer near you, try some on, and ask questions. You can get an entry-level Seiko for well under $300 and I cherish mine just as much as I do my most expensive Rolex. Unfortunately, one of the downsides to Seiko is that the bracelets are the weak point. They have a specific “jangle” and can feel like they’re of much lesser quality than that watch they’re attached to.  So use some of that leftover coin to buy a few straps and change them out frequently to figure out what you like.  All the W.O.E. products are designed to be worn/used with a Seiko or a Rolex. We will do a follow-on Dispatch at some point with some tips on buying watches with value in mind. What advice do you have for someone looking to join the CIA? The second most common question we get is, "How do I join the CIA?" While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. If you want to join the CIA, don't message someone anonymously claiming to be former CIA.  Keep this goal private and practice discretion. The Agency values discretion, hence the label of a quiet professional. Here are a few pieces of advice for those interested in the operational side of the house. Become a master of a trade. CIA hires former teachers, investment bankers, plumbers, businessmen, SpecOps, doctors, lawyers, and even professional athletes. Become unique and accomplished. Have a compelling story that will interest the CIA recruiter.  You can apply right out of college, but your chances of being accepted and thriving at the Agency will greatly increase if you have unique work/life experience. Travel. Live, work and study abroad. The one common trait of 99% of CIA Case Officers is that they have significant prior overseas experience. Your job is to understand geopolitics and empathize with individuals different from you.  This can only truly be learned and demonstrated through experience. Even if you aren't interested in joining the CIA, we still think we would all be better off if we travel and experience different cultures. Learn a language. Any language is advantageous, but the harder the better. Russian, Mandarin, Persian/Farsi, Korean etc. Turn on the news and see where the current/future conflicts are. The languages spoken in that area are generally of high interest and will make a CIA recruiter happy. Keep your nose clean. You don't have to be a saint (I saw the inside of a jail cell a couple times growing up and made more than a few bad decisions). But if you do drugs, stop. Don't drink and drive. Pay your taxes. Don't commit felonies. This is all good advice for joining the CIA, but even better advice for life. READ. This one is important. Read every book/article on the intelligence business you can find. This will help you figure out if it is right for you and where your interests are aligned. The current generation has a wealth of information at their fingertips on the Intelligence Community, including on the CIA’s own website.  Take advantage of this information and do your research. If you are a foreigner, find an unattributable internet portal and google  "CIA walk in." Lastly, a career as a Case Officer is more than just a job, it’s a calling and a way of life.  You have to be all in and cannot treat it like a 9-to-5. CIA is not perfect, but I loved my time working in the building and in the field.  It is not always an easy lifestyle and comes with unique challenges, but it is a great opportunity to serve your country, see the world and live a life worth living.  Happy hunting. What watch did you wear most operationally? In my initial Hodinkee article, “The Connection Between Watches and Espionage,” which was in many ways W.O.E.’s debut to the larger watch community, I wrote about wearing my titanium Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Day during a military coup in Africa. The opening story was a relatively mundane night, no heroic activities, just a standard night as a Case Officer operating in Africa. The only reason I even remember that watch that night was that it was relatively new, and the luminous numbers stuck out. In fact, I could have written that story about countless nights wearing several watches. W.O.E.’s personal IWC Mark XVII and Africa Division challenge coin. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) But, looking back at pictures of the years I was at CIA, the most common watch on my wrist appeared to be an IWC Mark XVII.  It is a great and versatile watch that can fit in with a suit and tie at a diplomatic function in Europe or jeans and a dirty t-shirt in the African bush.  It is also not overly flashy and would not draw undue attention.  W.O.E.'s IWC with W.O.E. DNC strap prototype (Photo Credit: Michael Shaffer / @capitolsunset) Truth is, I did not put much thought into my watch while overseas; it was a tool I used regularly.  This IWC has three letters engraved on the back, only one of which is one of my initials. The engraving caused some problems during a training exercise and then when I was (REDACTED) pulled into secondary for additional “screening” (interrogation).  Fortunately, I had come up with a cover story for the three letters as the initials of a fictitious father prior to the training exercise and it was not a significant issue.  It was a good lesson and reminder that the smallest details matter in the world of espionage. W.O.E.'s Breitling Aerospace (Photo Credit: Tom Brenner) A close second was the Breitling Aerospace that I received as a gift from King Abdullah of Jordan.  This is an entirely practical watch given the digital feature set.  The digital timer was particularly useful and was used to log activities during surveillance operations in African capitals, time debriefings of ISIS members, and to record legs of Surveillance Detection Runs. How do Case Officers, Special Operations personnel, etc. afford a Rolex? First, not every HUMINT collector or military “operator” wears a mechanical timepiece, let alone a luxury watch like Rolex, Breitling or Tudor.  It is easy to get this impression given the content at W.O.E., as there is a clear selection bias for the stories we tell.  While this was largely true in the mid-20th century when many of these watches were issued and/or easily purchased at the local PX, today the vast majority of "operators” rely on cheap and effective digital tool watches.  That said, there is a strong watch culture in both the military and intelligence circles, and the percentage of individuals that have mechanical and even luxury “tool watches” likely exceeds that of the civilian counterparts of the same socioeconomic status.  The reason for this is just as much (if not more) culture than anything else. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Second, not all mechanical or even luxury timepieces cost $10,000.  As discussed above, quality Seiko tool watches can be purchased for well under $1,000 and brands like Breitling, Panerai, IWC, Tudor and many others can be acquired second-hand for a fraction of the inflated prices of Rolex. So how do we afford them? The short answer is, the same as everyone else.  Contrary to many Hollywood representations of CIA officers, the majority of Case Officers I worked with did not come from elite Ivy League backgrounds or wealthy families.  They work hard and save up.  If you have spent the last 10-20 years in an operational capacity, you have likely spent several years deployed to a conflict or other hardship post and the government has compensated you (relatively) appropriately.  While you will not become rich from this calling, you will likely have earned enough disposable income and it can be used at your discretion to fund your hobbies and interests. Many choose to use some of the funds to purchase a watch. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) One example of this is the “war zone watch.” While a government salary does not support an extensive watch collection, when officers deploy to war zones for an extended period, their pay can almost double while their personal expenses are minimized. After returning from Iraq, Afghanistan, or one of the undeclared expeditionary locations, many officers take a portion of their savings and purchase a watch to discreetly commemorate the accomplishment. Further, as much as we all can’t stand the black box of who gets priority on the Authorized Dealers (AD) “waiting list”, the stores and sometimes even individual sales associates have significant leeway with whom they prioritize as customers.  Some ADs in Northern Virginia and metropolitan areas near large military bases prioritize clientele from military and government agencies. Why are you anonymous? I get the impression that a lot of people think the main reason behind W.O.E. being anonymous is because of OPSEC (operational security).  In reality, when I left CIA, I requested that my association with the Agency be declassified.  This was approved with certain stipulations/restrictions. W.O.E.’s hands busy influencing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) The real reason “W.O.E.” is anonymous is twofold.  First, “Watches of Espionage” is not about one person, it’s about our entire community.  “W.O.E.” is the curator or the “guide” on this journey, but it’s not just about me.  I insert some of my own experiences and stories for context or to demonstrate a point but that’s it–it’s strictly to add additional information.  In fact, if you read the articles where my personal experiences are mentioned, I am not the hero; they’re relatively mundane experiences of a CIA Case Officer.  Secondly, I value my privacy.  I don’t want to be famous or an internet celebrity in either the watch or tactical community. That’s just not for me.  Additionally, being anonymous ironically allows me to be more authentic in my presentation of my watch collection and love of timepieces.  Posting expensive watches on social media can often accurately be interpreted as a “flex” or show-off and can quickly fall into “cringe” territory. Being anonymous allows me to show whatever I want without any of the added recognition.  What watch would you recommend for a woman in the field? “W.O.E. Mansplains What Watches Women Should Wear” is what I would call this article. Truth is, I am not qualified to really comment on this topic.  Check out Brynn Wallner who runs a platform called Dimepiece Co. if you are a woman interested in getting into watches.  She does a great job curating content specifically for women and is a disruptor in this industry. Homeland, not an accurate portrayal of female Case Officers (Photo Credit: HBO, Homeland) Traditionally there have been men’s and women's watches.  To simplify a complicated topic, men’s watches are generally larger and women’s smaller.  Recently there has been a movement to remove gender from watches and make them all unisex.  While we won’t take a position on this hyper-sensitive debate, we will say that there is no reason a woman couldn’t and shouldn’t wear a traditional men’s timepiece.  Mrs. W.O.E.'s current go-to timepiece is a Tudor Black Bay 58, one that many may say is a traditional men’s watch.  Likewise, some men appreciate and even prefer smaller timepieces that some may perceive as women’s watches.  More power to you. Wear whatever you want.  What is your grail watch? A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it.  Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It is more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Photo Credit: Tudor Collector, Ross Povey W.O.E.’s grail is a military-issued Tudor Submariner, specifically a South African military-issued Tudor Sub from the 1970s.  While I have no affinity for the South African Defence Force (especially from that time frame), I have spent much of my life living and working on the continent and would find the connection meaningful.  Pictured above is one of the few known watches, a 1974 South African Navy Issued Black Tudor Submariner 7016.  I want to do a full deep dive Dispatch article on this, if nothing else to build my knowledge base. Why do you not have a G-Shock in your collection? The Casio G-Shock is a great watch and if you are in a tactical or operational position, it’s hard to beat as a tool watch.  For deployed paramilitary officers or uniformed military personnel conducting direct action and kicking in doors it is a fantastic tool.  The same for Garmin, Suunto, Timex and the plethora of other digital pieces. There are some downsides, most notably the requirement for a battery, but they are cheap and relatively indestructible. Additionally, G-Shocks also have a cult following in the watch community and there are many collectible references and collaborations.  So why doesn’t W.O.E. have one in the toolbox? While it is ideal for military personnel, the Casio G-Shock is a clear “tell” for Americans to wear overseas.  For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while under cover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. A decade ago I was posted overseas in a major African capital.  The conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan were dying down, but the “Global War on Terror” was still in full swing and a priority for the USG.  Department of Defense personnel had flooded into Africa to conduct overt military assistance to host country nations.  One night I was out for drinks with an early local contact at a high-end hotel when a group of civilian-clothed USMIL personnel walked in. Tactical? (Photo Credit: Casio) My contact, who was not yet aware of my Agency affiliation, eyed the group as they took their seats at the bar and proudly said, “There are some of your spies, you can always spot American spies, they have beards and wear large plastic watches on the inside of their wrists.”  I don’t remember what watch I was wearing that night, but I do know it wasn’t a large black tactical watch.  It would have been something that supported my cover as an American (REDACTED). Navy SEALs conducting VBSS while wearing G-Shock, likely DW-6600 (Photo Credit: US Navy) We have detailed the role digital watches play in espionage and regardless of one’s horological interests or occupation, a cheap and reliable digital timepiece is a must in any collection.  My go-to is a Timex Ironman, which I use for PT and other water activities when I want to record specific times. Would you wear another unit’s unit watch? Does this qualify as stolen Valor? We have written extensively about unit watches and there are some cool references like the SAS Explorer II that sometimes show up for sale or auction.  While it is unfortunate that some operators choose to part with these meaningful timepieces, we also understand that life circumstances change, and the astronomical secondary market can become irresistible. Special Air Service Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 (Photo Credit: Sotheby’s) Short answer is yes, I would wear another unit’s watch and I do not view this as stolen valor.  For example, if someone gave me the SAS Rolex Explorer II (I couldn’t afford or want to spend the asking price), I would wear it.  In fact, the watch ending up with a true collector who appreciates the history and meaning behind a unit watch is probably a good thing.  The caveat to all of this is that it all comes down to intention: if someone uses the watch to attempt to convince someone that they served in a specific unit when they did not, of course that is taboo.  But there are far easier and more effective forms of stolen valor than spending a small fortune on a collectable timepiece.  What are your opinions on smart watches? This is a fascinating topic and something I will dive into deeper in a future Dispatch, a lot to unpack here.  First, in general we are not against smart watches, in my post-government life I have worked in emerging technology and the benefits of “wearables” including smart watches are immense.  Even though they are contrary to much of what we put out at W.O.E., smart watches are great tools, providing immediate and actionable data to increase your health, productivity, and situational awareness. Apple Watch (Photo Credit: Apple) That said, for people in the business of espionage, smart watches and the internet of things (IoT) have profound counterintelligence implications and are not ideal.  For one, wireless devices are not permitted in SCIFs (sensitive compartmented information facility) so they are not even an option for most while at work.  Secondly, as previously documented, smart devices are certainly not a spy’s best friend. When wading through a Middle Eastern souk trying to detect and avoid hostile intelligence services, wearing a beacon with a microphone that tracks your every move, on your wrist or in your pocket, simply is not acceptable. Secret Australian government installation on the Strava heat map showing routes of staff movements logged in the app. (Photo Credit: Daily Mail / Strava) In late-2017, open-source fitness tracker data was used to reveal the location of sensitive military locations in countries including Syria, Niger, and Afghanistan. A reliable timepiece is a necessity to ensure you conduct your operational act (agent meeting) at the exact time and place without leaving behind a digital footprint that can be pieced together by a competent hostile intelligence service. Sometimes it’s best to do things the old-fashioned way. Again, this is a great topic and something we will flesh this out in more detail in a future Dispatch. Read More: CIA Officers And Apple Watches What is a modern MACV-SOG Seiko? As documented in the Dispatch: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting The Record Straight, “SOG Seikos” are one of the greatest historical examples of “Watches of Espionage.”  They are procured using black budget funds and issued to SOG operators as sterile and untraceable equipment. Seiko’s cult-like following combined with military historians’ fascination with SOG has made the MACV-SOG Seikos incredibly collectable (i.e. expensive).   While the prices of the MACV-SOG Seikos have recently skyrocketed to well over $1,000 if you can even find them, for those interested in purchasing a modern version, the SNK381K1 is as close as it gets. At 37mm, it is smaller than most modern watches, but throw it on a green nylon strap, add a tactical compass, and you can play the part. W.O.E.’s personal modern MACV-SOG, Seiko SNK381K1 If you really want to signal to others that you are a tactical watch bro, wear it on the inside of your wrist like John Stryker Meyer did in Vietnam. Like most Seikos, it is relatively affordable and you should be sub-$200 all in. Pretty cool watch.  Do you plan to restock straps, cases etc? Yes, all of our products are hand made in the US/UK so they take time and cannot be mass produced. We are working on some unique and innovative things for 2023 and will announce them in the newsletter.  We should have a large release of W.O.E. Travel Pouches in late January/early February and we are really excited about the leather straps later in February.  The next release of the W.O.E. Zulu Alpha Strap is TBD.  Sign up for “Notify Me When Available” for anything that interests you. (HINT-HINT)  More to come! Thanks for the support. Read Next: The Connection Between Watches And Espionage This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.