Seiko, Hamilton, Timex, & More - Our Top Picks For Starter Watches Of Espionage - One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What should I buy for my first watch?”

Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it?  You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary ​​If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB,  Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel,  Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop  

A Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re talking about the watches of terrorists, mercenaries, war criminals, or dictators, nothing is off the table. We use watches as a medium to get to the human element; they are our prism to view the world. That said, when I heard Adolf Hitler's gold reversible watch was auctioned for $1.1 million, I paused, thinking I may have found a watch too controversial for even W.O.E. to cover. As I attempted to wrap my head around the sale of Hitler’s watch, the buyer’s motivations, and the lack of traditional watch media coverage, I found myself wading into a more complicated conversation. Watches serve as mementos, objects that transcend their utilitarian value by representing history’s best and worst moments. But for collectors of historically charged timepieces, where is the line? Should anyone be comfortable buying, owning, or wearing watches associated with some of the most evil people to walk the Earth? Let’s explore. Watches, Warfare, & Swiss-Neutrality Watches are inextricably linked with warfare and many premier luxury brands owe their designs, legitimacy, and very existence to providing tools to warfighters. Iconic brands like IWC and Panerai often tout their military provenance as tools of choice for pilots and combat swimmers. But what the marketing departments (understandably) downplay is that some of those pilots wearing IWC watches were German Luftwaffe (Nazis) and Panerai’s Italian frogmen were Decima Flottiglia MAS, early amphibious commandos responsible for sinking Allied ships in WWII. The truth is complicated. Some of the most prominent Swiss brands have willingly provided custom watches to murderous dictators, including North Korean Kim Il-Sung’s Omega Constellation, Syrian President Hafez Al-Assad’s Rolex Submariner 5513, and a series of Patek Philippe models made for Libyan strongman Muammar Gaddafi. Even by conservative estimates, these men are responsible for hundreds of thousands of innocent deaths, yet their watches continue to fetch significant sums. Auction houses and dealers have a clear ideological allegiance: money. But what about the collectors buying these watches? Nazi Watches? WTF? With the above-listed issues in mind, some watches are too controversial for us to touch, most notably the watches of Nazis. In July of 2022, a watch reportedly belonging to Adolf Hitler auctioned for $1.1M at a Maryland auction house, Alexander Historical Auctions. The gold watch was reportedly manufactured by German watchmaker Andreas Huber with a movement from LeCoultre, now Jaeger-LeCoultre, and bears Hitler's initials (AH), a swastika, and the date of his appointment as Chancellor of Germany: January 30, 1933. The watch was allegedly liberated from Hitler's residence by French soldier Sergeant Robert Mignot as a “spoil of war.” The buyer? Reportedly an anonymous Jewish bidder in Europe, a detail that would not be significant if not for the fact that the man who wore this watch was responsible for the genocide of millions of Jews during World War II.  When I heard this news I cringed, why would someone want to own a watch belonging to (arguably) the most evil person to ever live? I am by no means superstitious, but I wouldn't want that thing in my house, let alone on my wrist. But the news of the auction led me down a rabbit hole of introspection on the ethical dilemmas of watch collecting. When does something controversial cross over into taboo? At what point does the preservation of history turn into the promotion of hate? It's complicated and highly subjective. Controversial Timepieces I own and wear several “controversial” timepieces including a Blackwater Breitling Emergency, a Rhodesian military-issued Roamer, and a South African Navy-issued Tudor MilSub. The Tudor Submariner and Roamer are byproducts of apartheid-era conflicts, a controversial topic by any measurement. Blackwater is one of the most controversial private military contractors and also conjures up strong emotions for many. These pieces are more than the sum of their parts, they are wearable artifacts of specific periods in time and for me indicative of historical significance rather than ideological affiliation. I believe one can own them and not condone the behavior of the original end-user (for the record I am against apartheid in South Africa).  Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 To complicate matters more, I recently considered purchasing a Rolex Submariner 5513 made for the late former President of Syria Hafez Al-Assad. President Al-Assad was responsible for numerous atrocities, including the 1982 Hama massacre when the Baathist government besieged the town of Hama for 27 days, resulting in an estimated 10,000 to 40,000 civilian deaths.  Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: HairSpring) Why would I want to own this piece? Is it really that different from Hitler's watch? Having spent much of my life living and working in the Arab world, including Syria, something about the red Arabic signature on the dial speaks to me. Of course, this desire is by no means an endorsement of the Assad regime. On the contrary, much of my time at CIA was spent working against individuals like Assad. For me, it comes down to collecting context. By default, I think we should take a nuanced understanding of history, and exploring a topic, or a watch, does not equate to endorsement of the subject. Provenance & Watches Of Notable Historical Figures Marlon Brando's GMT-Master on set for Apocalypse Now, 1979. “Provenance” is a term used by collectors and auction houses to document the history of a watch’s ownership, modifications, and service history.  Whether Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona or Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT, watches with notable provenance fetch premiums as they transcend from “just a watch” to a historical artifact. Military watches are no different and those with documented provenance to a specific individual or unit can increase the value by a multiple of two or three. When it comes to celebrities and other benign “famous people,” the inherent value is widely recognized. But when you get into the gray area of watch collecting, the “value” of provenance can vary based on one's ties to what that item represents.  My prized possession (grail watch) is a South African-issued Tudor MilSub reference 7016 from approximately 1974. While I have no ties to the Apartheid-era South African Navy, I have spent much of my life living and working in Africa and have a particular interest in Tudor MilSubs. The provenance of this watch has a greater value for me than the average collector. Similarly, Israeli Defense Force (IDF) issued Tudor 7928s likely have a greater value to one with ties to Israel whereas those opposed to Israel may view these watches with disgust. So What Type Of Person Would Buy Hitler’s Watch? My initial thought was a neo-Nazi sympathizer, a Bond villain character who wants to wear the watch in his underground lair as he pets his hairless cat. And while this may be the case, the truth, and motivations are likely more complicated.  According to at least one report from the Washington Post, the auction house president claims the watch was purchased by an “anonymous European Jewish bidder.” Is it possible that an individual spent over a million dollars on this item to remember the defeat of the Nazis? As uncomfortable as this may sound, the answer may be yes.  On the shelf in my office is a WWII-era-German (read Nazi) Eagle Claw Scabbard and Mauser-Werke Luftwaffe pistol, both war trophies brought home from the European theater by my grandfather. These items are by no means intended to honor the Nazis and to be clear as an individual and a platform we are anti-Nazi. On the contrary, these items commemorate what my grandfather and the Greatest Generation accomplished, defeating Nazi expansion in World War II. Would I purchase them at auction? No, but they do hold personal value. Watch Collecting On A Spectrum Our willingness to preserve history through the collection of timepieces occurs on a spectrum. Most are willing to buy and wear a new military-inspired watch. Even pacifists can appreciate them for their connection to the past. WWII Allied watches like the Dirty Dozen are also generally uncontroversial given the belief that the Allies were on the right side of history. But once you pass this, the value of the provenance is subjective. Auction Houses Google the name of any major auction house and you are sure to find at least one significant controversy including “fake” watches, stolen artifacts, or items of religious or cultural importance. The trade is morally complicated, and auction houses are incentivized to maximize monetary gain. The fact that Hitler's watch was sold at a relatively obscure auction house suggests that the larger auction houses passed on these items, finding them too controversial. This raises another rhetorical ethical question, is it ok for auction houses to profit off of these sales? Conclusion Would I want to own Hitler's watch? Absolutely not. Despite what is written above, I still believe this watch is a physical representation of pure evil. It belongs buried in a tomb or maybe in a museum honoring the holocaust victims. That said, collecting controversial watches should not be immediately shunned and we should have an open conversation on the ethical considerations at each level. Engaging in thoughtful discussions about the implications of collecting these items and considering their historical impact is essential for navigating this complex issue. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban

Civilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces, and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can—and probably will at some point—serve as stand-alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any other questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll do our best to answer them in a future article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I”, “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II”, and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part III”. Is it OK for civilians to wear military watches or does this qualify as “stolen valor”? (Photo Credit: Panerai) Many watch brands and references are centered around a specific narrative and culture of professionals: the Omega Speedmaster and space exploration, the Rolex Submariner and diving, and IWC’s aviation watches.  With this marketing, there comes some form of cosplaying or larping and in general, this is fine and part of the fun of the passion. I will likely never travel to space, but I like the idea of wearing a watch that has and has been designed for that purpose. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Additionally, we have covered many military-inspired brands like Bremont, Marathon, and Sangin, which are intended for use by active duty and former military members. While they maintain a strong customer base in these communities, of course not all of the customers are tier-one operators. Overall, there is no problem with this and it is by no means stolen valor. “Military-inspired” is synonymous with tough gear that is meant to be used. However, I do struggle with commercially available watches with a branch or unit insignia on the dial. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Top Gun, Marathon’s USMC GSAR, and of course Panerai’s “Navy SEAL” watches. While I still don’t think this is stolen valor as such and don’t have a problem with people wearing them, I personally would not want to wear a watch with an insignia on the dial that I have no direct connection to, i.e. a unit I did not serve in. (Photo Credit: Marathon Watch) With “unit watches,” it gets more complicated and, in my opinion, depends on the specific unit watch and how much time has elapsed since it was worn by those who earned it. In general, I think watches with a specific unit insignia on the dial or caseback should be worn by those who earned them, not those who can afford to pay the absurd premium they command at auction. Customized Tudors, Omega, Rolex, and even Breitlings have sold for well over $40,000, a remarkable number. That said, at a certain point these watches do become collectibles and it is fine to collect them. Where that line is, is highly subjective. What was your go-to EDC bag when you were at CIA? W.O.E. in the Middle East, Sandstorm EDC bag. As a Case Officer operating overseas, your job is to recruit spies and steal secrets. This calling requires frequent travel and operational activity in a range of environments, from diplomatic functions in European capitals to dark alleys in war-torn countries. A good EDC bag should support your persona (cover) and not immediately peg you as an American. This obviously rules out the tacti-cool bag with Velcro for your Punisher morale patch. While I was at CIA, I relied on “issued backpacks” that were purchased overseas and modified by CIA as well as man purses I acquired myself, most notably the Canvas Andrew Work Bag from Sandstorm, Kenya, a bag I still use regularly today. Sandstorm Kenya The fictitious representation of “Q” in James Bond is largely a figment of Hollywood imagination, but gear and spy gadgets have been an integral part of espionage since the early days of the Office of Strategic Services.  Prior to an overseas assignment, CIA Case Officers visit an obscure warehouse outside of Washington D.C. and are issued a range of gear from disguises and backpacks. For most assignments, the gear is not as exciting as it sounds, but there are some deep disguises available, as made famous by former Chief of Disguise for CIA, Jonna Mendez. Case Officer’s EDC The key for EDC bags at CIA is to use something that won’t make you stick out as an American, i.e. the ubiquitous North Face and Patagonia backpack. I spent much of my overseas time living and working in Africa and fell in love with a boutique manufacturer called Sandstorm, which makes canvas and leather bags out of repurposed safari tent material. The bags are durable and classy, at home in the back of a dusty Land Cruiser just as much as a first-class lounge in Amsterdam. They aren’t cheap, but nothing good is. If you are really trying to blend in, or at least not stick out, my advice is to buy clothing and bags locally, or at least outside of the United States or your home country. Save the tacti-cool bags for range day and family trips to Chucky Cheese.  Many microbrands you cover use watches or parts made in China, is this ok? I’m a red-blooded American and in an ideal world, all tools would be made in America, watches made in Switzerland, and Whiskey distilled in Tennessee. That said, with the decline in American/British manufacturing and watchmaking, the reality is there are some great watches (and tools) that are designed in the US/UK, but manufactured in China and East Asia. In my opinion, many of these watches offer great value for the customer and I own some of them. Elliot Brown Holton on Glomar Explorer strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Obviously, there is a stigma with “Made in China” and in some ways, this is warranted but the fact is that the country, and the region in general, has specialized in high-quality manufacturing at a cost-effective price. The computer I am writing this on, and the device you are reading this on, are made in China. There has been an effort to “reshore” manufacturing and watchmaking back to the United States, but much of these efforts have come up lacking, with customer complaints about price and quality control. The key here is transparency. Designed/assembled/sewn in the USA can mean very different things and many manufacturers work to obscure the origin of products with clever language. I’m not saying that brands should lead with “Made in China,” or stamp the case back, but they should be at least open about it. (Photo Credit: Atelier DE GRIFF) There is a lot of smoke and mirrors in the watch and EDC industry and even “Swiss-made” means that the watch is assembled and tested in Switzerland but not that all the parts originate there. Legally, “Swiss Made” means “60% of production costs are generated in Switzerland, and at least 50% by value of all components is Swiss-made”, which gives a lot of wiggle room. While I won’t dime them out here, there are plenty of “Swiss watches” with significant inputs from China. When you’re traveling abroad as a civilian with an Agency background, what is your EDC? Case Officer’s EDC, just the essentials. First of all, I think people put way too much thought into “Every Day Carry” and not enough into mindset, training, and physical fitness. I am a minimalist and generally carry the same thing I did at the Agency, no crazy whizzbang tactical tools, just the essentials: pen and paper, folding knife, over $300 in cash, passport, tourniquets, and a Surefire Defender flashlight. An external battery is a necessity also. Check out a past Dispatch on “CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC” for more on my reasoning and experience with these tools. My personal EDC hasn't changed much in two decades and it likely won't change anytime soon. Assuming I can’t afford the real thing, how do you feel about homage watches as opposed to  “fake” or “replica” watches? We wrote an article about the counterfeit watch industry (Read HERE) and several people asked what my thoughts are on “homage” watches like a Seiko modified to look like a Rolex Submariner or GMT. I don’t necessarily have a problem with these, but I would never buy one personally. It's hard for me to determine where the line between homage and fake is and I wouldn’t someone to spot me from across the room thinking I am wearing a Rolex, then come to find out it's a homage. That said, there are some “homage brands” like Tornek-Rayville, Benrus, and Vertex, that essentially brought these brands back to life, and that is something I can get behind (I own a Tornek and love it). (Photo Credit: Modbrand) Congrats on your first video and the launch of the W.O.E. YouTube channel. How did you come up with this unique format? Our core competency at W.O.E. is storytelling, offering readers/viewers insight into our community through the prism of watches. The goal is to inform and entertain and while long-form articles (ie the W.O.E. Dispatch) are our preferred medium, the sad fact is that most people don’t read more than a couple paragraphs, preferring to take in bite-sized chunks of engaging video and photographic content. We knew video was inevitable and have been working on this for over a year. The school solution in launching a YouTube channel is to have an influencer sit in front of a ring light and offer spicy clickbait takes and “Top 10 lists” of the best watches. At W.O.E. we always aim to do something different so we decided to take the concept of our Dispatch articles and convert them into mini-episodes. This concept will evolve as we gain more resources. We have been overwhelmed with the response and plan to continue to release an episode every 2 weeks through the end of the year. Check out our first four videos HERE. What’s the best spy movie from a former Case Officer’s point of view? I like thrillers/spy movies as much as the next guy. Jason Bourne, James Bond, and Red Sparrow are all fun and entertaining experiences, but they are far from the reality of true espionage work which is months of hard work and lots of writing, punctuated by exciting moments and “cool” operations. The fact is most intelligence work is boring and if the movies were accurate . . . they wouldn’t be that interesting. Spy Game is one of my favorite movies and is entertaining, but also has threads of truth, particularly the training and mentorship of Tom Bishop, played by Brad Pitt. It’s still Hollywood, but a great watch, nonetheless. Argo and Charlie Wilson's War are interesting looks at historic CIA operations, however, I would recommend starting with the books. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Good Shepherd capture the methodical aspect of the wilderness of mirrors of the spy world, but also aren’t as exciting as the Bourne series. The Recruit is an interesting look at the training pipeline at “The Farm” and one that many from my generation watched multiple times prior to training. (Photo Credit: Black Hawk Down) Movies like Zero Dark Thirty and Black Hawk Down are less historically accurate, but interesting watches nonetheless. Regardless, if you want to learn about these events and what really happened, I would recommend reading the books first. Our W.O.E. Reading List (read HERE) is a great place to start. Last but certainly not least, Spies Like Us is a comedy with zero historical accuracy but does have a real cult following in CIA. “Doctor” can be heard in just about every CIA Station around the globe. Don’t sleep on it. If I’m down to two or three watches that all meet my criteria and price range, how do I decide? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) One of the most common questions I get is people looking for help trying to decide between two or three watches they want to buy. Sometimes they are very different—like a Tudor FXD and a Breitling Aerospace—and sometimes they are similar references from the same brand. The answer is always the same, go with your gut. Continue to watch videos and read about the watches, but most importantly try them on at the store or borrow one from your watch friends. This is such a personal decision and nothing I say should impact your choice. Ultimately, go with your gut, and your budget.  Is there any watch that’s a grail for you, something you’d trade your entire collection for? W.O.E.’s South African-issued Tudor Submariner reference 7016. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Yes, no. A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it. Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It’s more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Pictured above is my South African-issued Tudor Submariner ref 7016 from approximately 1974, which is (was?) my grail watch. I acquired this piece from Ross Povey last year and it is my “prized possession,” I will never sell it. A Rolex Milsub is another grail for me, but I wouldn’t trade my entire collection for one. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Moving forward, there are plenty of watches I would love to acquire including a Rolex MilSub and an Israeli-issued Shayetet 13 Tudor Sub 7928. That said, there is nothing I would trade my entire collection for. Many of my watches have personal value that transcends monetary value. The Breitling Aerospace I received from King Abdullah of Jordan (Read HERE) is probably worth a few thousand on the market, but to me, it is priceless. I have too many memories with that piece to let it go.    How do I buy a watch for my wife? (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) This is a tricky one. I have purchased Mrs. W.O.E. several watches including a Cartier Tank, Black Bay 58, and a Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse. Despite my best efforts to woo her into the world of watch nerds, she couldn't care less. The fact is that women have more competition for their attention (and money) than men. While this is a generalization I am probably going to catch some smoke for, women are bombarded by messaging for and tend to covet handbags, shoes, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces whereas men traditionally have fewer personal items to consider. The watch industry has been desperate to acquire women customers and has made some headway, but it's still heavily tilted toward men. My advice is simple, bring your significant other to a watch store to try on a range of watches. If something speaks to them, then follow that thread. If not, don’t push it.    What is your favorite strap and why? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) When it comes to W.O.E. products, I am our first customer and if it's not something I would use, then it doesn’t get made. That said, each of our product lines is very discrete and developed for different use cases. Just because you like one of our straps doesn’t mean you will like them all. The Glomar Explorer probably gets the most wrist time, particularly in warmer months. It’s such a versatile strap and works particularly well with both the Blue and Black FXDs, but also virtually any tool watch. With the new tightened strap keeper, there is no chance it is coming off your wrist.  Sizing can greatly vary on these straps, depending on the watch and your wrist size. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Second, I am a big fan of leather on field watches and divers and wear the Jedburgh, particularly on my older vintage pieces and watches like the Arabic Seiko.  From the start, it is a very comfortable strap with a low profile. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Lastly, I love all of our Five Eyes straps and wear them regularly. But when it comes to single-pass straps, I often defer to our past collaborations with Zulu Alpha and recently have been wearing the W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 a lot. They are expensive, there is no way to sugarcoat that, but the quality of the hardware and fabric are night and day in my opinion. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The main point here is to find a strap that works for you.  There are so many variables in watches, wrist size, and preferences, that there is no one size fits all. I encourage you to read the (over 1,000) reviews on each product page and see what other people's experiences have been. Remember, it’s much easier to buy and try a lot of different straps than it is with watches… What current Rolex model family would you buy assuming no wait list and cost isn’t an issue? I am a big fan of Rolex, particularly vintage and neo-vintage Submariners and GMTs. I am a simple man and give me any Sub or GMT with an aluminum bezel and drilled lug holes and I will be happy. I have “expressed interest” in the new Black/Gray Rolex GMT Master II, and would love to get one, but I am not losing sleep over it. That said, the one piece I would kill for (not actually) is the Titanium Yachtmaster. However, these pieces are almost impossible to get and I am not willing to pay the excessive premium on the secondary market or play silly games with ADs to get one. I am ok with that. Watch buying advice? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Still, the most common question we get is on watch buying advice from newbies and experts alike. While the W.O.E. platform is geared towards telling stories from our community, we have considerable resources to answer these questions.  Please check out the following articles if you are new to the world of watches. Advice for Buying a Watch Best Watches Under $5,000 - Ask the Experts Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts Best Military Watches If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. – This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.

“Terrific” Trump Watches, Rolex Submariner Secrets, Shark Tank Tudors, & More Watch-Related Crime By Benjamin Lowry Last month, we tested a new Dispatch format offering a brief overview of notable watch industry news as well as a discussion of current events either directly or tangentially related to our community. Given the positive feedback on our first run, each month I will provide a brief overview of watch-related news and current events pertaining to our community, all paired with our commentary. As a disclaimer, our monthly Watch Industry SITREP (Situation Report) will never include vapid reporting about which Patek Philippe model Zac Efron pairs with his chiseled abs or what brands have paid to be included in this year’s Fashion Week. Most celebrity endorsements are sponsored anyway, and we frankly don’t care (unless it’s Daniel Craig). To quote Thomas Jefferson, “Whenever the people are well-informed, they can be trusted with their own government.” While that is probably overstating the value of this watch and espionage-oriented platform, suffice it to say that knowledge is power and you don’t want to be caught sleeping on the big news at your next local watch meetup. That said, here are some notable watch industry events from this past month coupled with our commentary, starting with the recent unveiling of 45th President Donald J Trump’s very own collection of “luxury” watches. “That’s A Lot Of Diamonds. I Love Gold, I Love Diamonds” - Donald Trump Watches If you like gold and diamonds, which Trump says “everyone does”, the Victory Tourbillon could be for you. Bottom line up front, W.O.E. is an apolitical platform, but now and then, political figures cross over into our horological world and—as is the case here—require closer examination. Yesterday, Donald J. Trump revealed a new collection of watches headlined by a solid gold “Victory Tourbillon” that will set you back a cool $100k. If that’s out of your price range, there’s also the “Fighter”, sometimes also called the “Fight Fight Fight”, a dive-inspired model that presents a more reasonable $500 price point while still being equipped with an automatic Seiko movement. But as silly as they are, the watches, which are pre-order only for now, are not the news here. As always, Trump himself is the hook. Trump’s “Fighter” model will set you back a cool $499. In what feels almost like a parody or an AI deep fake, the website, GetTrumpWatches, is led by an embedded video that is the stuff of dreams. In the video, Trump introduces himself as your favorite president, proclaims that he is doing “quite a number with watches”, and that, “the quality to me is very important”. Describing the Victory Tourbillon by saying “This isn’t just any watch, it’s one of the best watches made” before launching into the number of grams of gold and the number of diamonds used in the Victory’s eye-watering six-figure design. No matter where you stand politically, watch enthusiasts must unite to enjoy this incredible minute or so of content. If you thought the front of the “Fight Fight Fight” was amazing, the back is even more terrific, though it does say the watch is rated to 200 meters where the specs indicate 100 meters. I digress. Further, the watches do not appear to be making America great again, with the FAQ section indicating the watches are made from “premium, Swiss-Made materials”, whatever that means, and saying proceeds from the watches do not support the former president’s campaign. Instead, the watches—whose country of origin is unclear—are a product of a licensing deal with TheBestWatchesonEarth LLC. With watch-specific and mainstream media eating these watches up—ourselves included—it’s difficult to fault Trump’s ability to remain at the forefront of the public eye. NFL Player Shot But Survives Attempted Rolex Robbery In San Francisco 49ers wide receiver Rocky Pearsall after being shot in an attempted Rolex robbery in San Francisco. In our last SITREP, we discussed watch-related crime including a still-at-large NYC man who placed victims in chokeholds before relieving them of their watches. It gets worse. Days later, on August 31st, San Francisco 49ers rookie Ricky Pearsall was shot in an attempted robbery of his Rolex on the streets of the troubled city that is San Francisco in 2024. According to local news, a teenager spotted the Rolex on the 6’1” 192-pound first-round draft pick, brandished a firearm, and demanded the watch. A struggle ensued in which both Pearsall and his assailant were both shot, but the wide receiver kept his watch, which appears to be a Rolex Datejust, proudly wearing it on the sidelines only two weeks later. Pearshall wearing his nearly-stolen Rolex Datejust on the sidelines only a couple of weeks after the attempted robbery. At W.O.E., we shy away from telling people how to live their lives but have discussed how to safely travel with a watch in great detail (read HERE). Your experience may vary, but suffice to say SF is not the place for flexing your luxury watch collection. Hammer-Wielding Smash & Grab At Pentagon City Mall Broken glass litters the scene around the Pentagon City Mall Tourneau | Bucherer. In further crime news, a Tourneau | Bucherer boutique close by the Pentagon was the subject of a smash-and-grab robbery back on September 1st, when three teens allegedly used hammers to smash into display cases inside the watch boutique. According to police, the sound of the breaking windows was enough to make multiple eyewitnesses report a shooting had taken place, leading to a full lockdown of the shopping center for about an hour. Whether specifically targeting watches or other industry pillars including Louis Vuitton, the luxury industry has been plagued by similar robberies in recent years.  Tourneau, which dates back to 1900, was acquired by Bucherer, one of Europe’s largest watch retailers, in 2018. In some of the most surprising watch news in years, Rolex SA then purchased Bucherer in 2023, presumably to have greater control over its supply chain, secondary market, and customer experience. For luxury boutiques, often “protected” by unarmed security professionals unwilling to engage in fisticuffs with hammer-wielding assailants, the smash-and-grab methodology is challenging to counter, with similar robberies targeting watch retailers taking place in Newport Beach, California, Ellis​​ville, Missouri, Washington, D.C., and Concord, North Carolina in the past year. That said, with most of the watches on display being “Exhibition Only,” they will likely be disappointed with the loot. A Rolex Submariner Book Full Of Revelations Long shrouded in secrecy, a new book developed with Rolex shares untold history and details about history’s most popular watch. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) As one of the world’s most secretive brands, Rolex is not known for sharing, making the recent unveiling of a book entitled Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep all the more surprising. A co-venture between watch industry historian Nicholas Foulkes and the Crown itself, the book peels back the layers on several aspects that have long been speculated among Rolex enthusiasts in the darkest corners of internet watch fora. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) First and foremost, and in a move that led to numerous pearl-clutching gasps among Rolex diehards, the brand formally provided production numbers for each and every Rolex Submariner reference ever made. For collectors, this is huge, providing concrete data for any argument about how rare a particular reference is or isn’t. We’ve never seen a move like this from Rolex before, and perhaps the book indicates a changing tide for a luxury icon that is quite possibly as secretive as any respected intelligence agency. Beyond the production numbers, a detailed history is provided for the Sub’s close relationship to the Explorer, former names considered by the Crown before landing on “Submariner” and plenty of other historical gems. The book formally launches in French and English on October 1st and rest assured, we will have more to say about the text in due course. A Custom Tudor Black Bay 925 For The Shark Tank Cast Known for wearing red straps with the watches in his luxurious and ostentatious collection, Kevin O’Leary is the resident watch enthusiast on Shark Tank, the popular entrepreneurial reality show that just wrapped shooting for its sixteenth season. To celebrate the 24 team members who have been with the show since the pilot, O’Leary purchased 24 of a custom version of the silver Black Bay 925 with a Shark Tank logo on the dial as well as the name of the recipient and “One great idea can change your life forever” engraved on the exhibition caseback.  Within the watch collecting hobby, so-called “unit watches” are one of our favorite aspects, with Tudors Of Espionage (T.O.E.) playing a not insignificant role in our admiration for these customized timepieces. That said, these particular iterations come off more than a little bit corny. Further, the accompanying attempt at virality—a short video entitled Gifting 24 Custom Shark TankTudor Watches—feels like engagement-thirsty virtue signaling of the highest order when the project could have easily been more subtle. We’ll have to see where aftermarket pricing for these goes when someone inevitably sells one… Final Thoughts Whether it’s a solid gold tourbillon from none other than Donald Trump, an NFL player fending off a would-be Rolex thief and getting shot in the process, or the chamber of secrets that is modern Rolex letting just a little bit of light in with a new Submariner book, September didn’t disappoint when it comes to watch-related news. If you guys enjoyed this format and our commentary, please let us know. If you come across great stories as the next month progresses, be sure to share those as well. As a whole, the watch industry is often guilty of taking itself too seriously. With this monthly column, we aim to share some relevant events you might actually care about while also just maybe having a good time in the process. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our free weekly newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - August 2024 *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in our articles and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.

From G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.) have usurped their analog and mechanical siblings in the vast majority of military, law enforcement, and intelligence scenarios. Looking beyond the prominent subset of watch enthusiasts in our community who embody the “Use Your Tools” ethos by way of any number of “luxury” timepieces, most regular humans in need of a capable watch look to attainable digital watches from a few prominent brands including G-Shock, Garmin, Suunto, and others For watches associated with the military, no crucible provides better proof of utility than sustained service in combat, with some of history’s most legendary designs influenced by their use in global conflicts. Where the Vietnam War served as a proving ground for legends including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, certain Seiko models, and the Tornek-Rayville TR-660, modern digital watches in many ways came into their own during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), a period spanning two decades after the terrorist attacks on September 11th, 2001. A US Army Special Forces operator wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan during the GWOT. During combat and intelligence operations in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other theaters, digital tool watches evolved from the basic G-Shock models that were in many respects unchanged from the original 1983 DW-5000C to the full suite of modern tactical and outdoor-oriented smartwatches from brands like Garmin and Suunto. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss some of the most impactful digital watches utilized by SpecOps, military, and intelligence professionals during the Global War On Terror, leaning into photographic evidence, anecdotal examples from members of the community, and records detailing military and government purchase orders. If you’re into LARPing—you know who you are—or just solid digital watches, most of these models are still readily available and impressively inexpensive. Casio F91W - $23 A model we once called “The Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”, the legendary Casio F91W is among the most successful watches of all time, having sold over 120 million units since its debut in 1993, typically for well under $20 a pop. In contrast to many of the watches to follow, the F91W is known for its use on both sides of the GWOT including not only US and coalition forces but also insurgents and terrorists including none other than Usama bin Laden right up until his brief meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. A female TEO operator of Germany’s Kommando Spezialkräfte (KSK) wearing a Casio F91W in 2021. In addition to its use on the wrist, the F91W also served as what is known in national security circles as “dual-use technology,” something that at an initial glance has a legitimate civilian utility but can also be used for military or paramilitary applications, i.e. as a timer for an IED, pipe bomb, or shaped charge. Perhaps held back by its smaller 35.2mm wide by 38.2mm long case, poor backlight, and limited water resistance, the F91W never became a popular option for official military procurement but has still served as the cheapest thing that works, easily purchased at the PX or on the economy by countless service members—and terrorists—over the years. Casio Pro-Trek - $280-500 A USAF Pararescueman of the 23rd Special Tactics Squadron wears a Casio Pro-Trek while conducting in-water training in 2012. Technically unrelated to the G-Shock beyond having the same parent organization in Casio, Pro-Trek also has one of the most impressive service records of any digital watch during the Global War On Terror. Having been selected by countless special operators and conventional troops, the Pro-Trek takes a small step from being just a basic timepiece to something more with integrated “ABC” or altimeter, barometer, and compass functions that—at least in a pinch—assist with way-finding in austere combat situations without requiring Bluetooth or other network connectivity that could compromise the wearer. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Casio Pro-Trek in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Despite only being rated to 100 meters of water resistance in most instances, the Pro-Trek was still often the watch of choice for amphibious military members including retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall who often wore a Pro-Trek on his deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. Digging into government records, Pro-Trek references PAW 1500-1V, PAG240-1, PRW2500-1A, and 130-1T were all purchased through government channels during the GWOT, mostly by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, which is a major testing and supply hub for the broader US Air Force. G-Shock From left to right, the DW5600-1V, DW6600-1V, and DE6900-1V are some of the most commonly purchased G-Shock models by military organizations. There was, as you’d expect, no shortage of G-Shocks used by service members during the GWOT. Dating back to 1983, the G-Shock revolutionized the watch industry by presenting a level of durability that was previously unthinkable for watches. With a basic case concept conceived by iconic Casio designer Kikuo Ibe after seeing a child bouncing a rubber ball, the original parameters for the G-Shock called for “Triple 10” resistance, meaning the watch needed to be able to survive a fall from 10 meters, resist water pressure to 10 atmospheres (100 meters), and provide 10 years of battery life. SOCCOM purchased 1000 units of G-Shock model G9000-1V in 2014 despite the reference’s lack of an NSN. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Catching on with military, law enforcement, and emergency professionals, the G-Shock has evolved over the years to include a wide variety of smartwatch-style functions. Still, while other more complicated G-Shock models have been purchased on a unit basis, only four basic references have been awarded an NSN or NATO Stock Number, making them readily available for military procurement and issue. All four also saw active service during the GWOT, as did non-NSN models including the Mudman (G9000-1V), which was ordered by the United States Special Operations Command (USSOCOM) in 2014 in separate orders of 400 and 600 units. DW5600-1V - $75 A USAF Combat Controller wearing a DW5600-1V in Afghanistan. A direct descendant of the original G-Shock, the DW5000C, the DW5600-1V was introduced in 1996. Often the least expensive G-Shock on the market at around $40, the 5600 provides one of the smallest and least obtrusive wearing experiences of any Shock, coming in at 48.9 by 42.8mm wide by 48.9mm long by 13.4mm thick. Given its entry-level price point, the suite of functions is simple by modern digital standards but does provide just about everything the basic military member could ever need while also offering G-Shock’s legendary durability. In the GWOT’s early years, this was the most commonly spotted watch on members of the military and intelligence services, even playing a role in CIA’s early anti-terror efforts in Afghanistan. DW6600-1V - Discontinued A young Chris Kyle on deployment wearing the Casio G-Shock DW6600-1V. Commonly associated with Chris Kyle, the US Navy SEAL who inspired 2014’s American Sniper, the DW6600-1V will always be considered the GWOT Navy SEAL watch. Beyond the utility, the DW6600 also became part of Team Guy culture. According to former SEAL Rob Huberty, “One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway.” Former US Navy SEAL, Harvard-educated medical doctor, and current astronaut Jonny Kim wearing a DW6600-1V on deployment in Iraq. From a use-case perspective, the DW6600-1V was a near-perfect choice for the SEALs, with the watch’s stopwatch feature working as a dive timer, a powerful backlight with a large button, and more durability than most could ever need. Some even say the little fin-shaped indices on the display could be used to time fin kicks during underwater navigational scenarios. Surprisingly, the classic version of the DW6600-1V has been discontinued since 2010, with Naval Special Warfare Command placing what was likely its final order for this specific reference in 2009 referencing a SEAL Qualification Training (SQT) supply list. The similarly styled DW6900-1V has largely taken its place, but we would argue a reissue is in order. DW6900-1V - $85 A DW6900-1V in its military-specific packaging shows the NSN for “Watch, Wrist” at the top. (Photo Credit: Reddit) The successor to the DW6600, the 6900-series swapped the fin-shaped elements on its display for a trio of tiny circles visually indicating the passing seconds while maintaining the proven case and strap format. Another commonly purchased item across the US Military, the basic DW6900 now seems to be one of the defacto purchase orders for any unit or organization looking for a solid digital watch including members of the SpecOps community. A USAF Pararescuemen wears a DW6900-1V in 2015. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) DW9052-1V - $75 A Force Recon Marine wearing a DW9052-1V in 2013. (Photo Credit: US Marine Corps) A G-Shock more commonly spotted during the second half of the GWOT is the DW9052-1V, which provides several key differences compared to the aforementioned models. For one, the 9052 utilizes larger square plastic buttons that are significantly easier to operate with gloves while also having hinged lugs more like a traditional watch, meaning the interface between the case and strap isn’t as stiff as other G-Shocks. Like the 6600 and 6900, the 9052 provides an easily accessed front light button. Despite being initially launched in 1995 and relaunched in 2011, the 9052 series does not appear to have found widespread military use until the tail end of the GWOT on terror, now being commonly spotted on the wrist of select military divers in particular, which stands to reason as the 9052 was a standard issue gear item for students attending a variety of diving courses at the Naval Diving and Salvage Training Center (NDSTC) for years. For a complete look at the US Military’s history with G-Shock, click HERE. Other Brands: Beneath the long shadow cast by Casio and the G-Shock collection in particular, several other brands made inroads into the digital tool watch space during the GWOT, first with brands like Timex and Suunto and later with Garmin as smartwatches entered the tactical fold. Timex Ironman Classic - $63 The humble Timex Ironman was issued by CIA to partner forces during the GWOT. Often playing second fiddle to celebrated G-Shock models, the Timex Ironman deserves its place in any discussion of digital timing during the GWOT, having been used not only by conventional military forces but also by US intelligence agencies, including CIA, which issued the Ironman to Afghan partner forces. Dating back to 1984 and the Timex Triathlon, the Ironman name was officially introduced in 1986 after Timex obtained the rights to the growing Ironman franchise. Designed to be rugged enough for swimming, biking, and running in the ridiculous sport of Ironman-distance triathlons, the Timex Ironman found its place among military and NatSec circles by virtue of its attainable price point, legible display, useful timing functions, and stout build. Former US Navy SEAL Jocko Willink is known for wearing Timex Ironman watches before, during, and after the GWOT. We have spotted Ironman watches on the wrists of US Navy SEALs and other members of the SpecOps community including former SEAL Jocko Willink who wore a Timex Ironman before and during the GWOT and continues to wear the humble digital watch despite his success as an author, podcaster, and leadership guru. We assume Jocko thinks the watch is “GOOD”. Suunto Vector - Discontinued A US Army soldier calls in an airstrike while wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: US Army) Another outdoors-oriented watch with ABC functionality that saw no shortage of action in Iraq and Afghanistan was the Suunto Vector, which was produced between 1998 and 2015 almost without change, a testament to the original design. With an Achilles heel of only 30 meters of water resistance, the Vector was still a great choice for urban and desert warfare, with its integrated altimeter being especially useful for mountain operations. Recognizing the trend, Suunto, a Finland-based brand, leaned into the watch’s popularity among US military members, creating an olive green variant that nails the early 2000s “tacticool” look on the head. Multiple orders for the Vector were placed by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in 2014 and 2015, with another interesting order coming from the FBI in 2021 (Presumably for SWAT Teams). Suunto Core Classic - $219 A US Navy SEAL wearing a Suunto Core on deployment. Where the Suunto Vector was in all ways intended as a mountaineering watch for REI nerds that grew to become a military favorite, it felt like Suunto knew what they were doing when they introduced the Core in 2007. While the new watch still technically only provided 30 meters of water resistance, Suunto obviously felt strongly enough about the watch’s amphibious ability to engineer a depth gauge function in addition to the standard ABC capabilities the brand is known for. Intriguingly, the depth gauge was only rated to 33 feet (10 meters), which happens to be the maximum operating depth of a pure oxygen rebreather such as the LAR V used by US Navy SEALs. A coincidence? Perhaps, but conspiracy theories are a lot more fun. What is for sure is the Core’s appeal among SpecOps units, with multiple orders placed for the model by Air Force Special Operations Command (AFSOC) and USSOCOM starting in 2010. 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium - Discontinued A young Chris Craighead wearing the seldom-seen 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium watch. (Photo Credit: Chris Craighead) Despite making a bunch of quality tactical gear, 5.11 is not known for its watches. That said, the analog-digital HRT model did have its day during the Global War On Terror, even issued to and worn by “Obi-Wan Nairobi” AKA Chris Craighead who wore the watch on deployment in his SAS days (but not his famed single-handed efforts in Kenya). That said, from what we can tell, 5.11’s watches were not formally purchased by the US Government and they aren’t commonly spotted in our research, which also indicates the watches did not obtain the reputation for durability possessed by G-Shock and other names on this list. Garmin A US Navy SEAL conducts training with a Garmin Fenix on the wrist. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When it comes to modern military watches, the new elephant in the room is Garmin, though the brand is not without its complications when it comes to modern warfare. Garmin also has a long-standing history with the US Military, having provided a wide variety of GPS-related equipment throughout the GWOT and today. An evolution of the “smartwatch” genre kicked off by Apple’s Apple Watch in 2015, Garmin’s outdoors and tactical-oriented collection of watches provides more functionality than a Timex or G-Shock could ever dream of, including active heart rate monitoring, GPS, an incredible array of sport and fitness specific functions, and in some cases, even parachuting and ballistics-specific capabilities. The suite of tech is no doubt compelling, but also Bluetooth or otherwise “connected” watches run the risk of being utilized to track or monitor troops in a theater of war or intelligence officers. Still, Garmin’s fitness and tactical smartwatches have been widely ordered through government channels over the last 10 years or so including much of the end of the GWOT. Garmin Instinct - $300-500 Pictured on an Indian Marine Commando Force (MARCOS) operator during training with an East Coast-based SEAL Team, the Garmin Instinct has become popular with military members around the world since its inception in the closing years of the GWOT. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Now in its second iteration, the Instinct, originally released in 2018, is where Garmin’s GPS-enabled smartwatch collection kicks off. The case, strap, user interface, and display are simpler compared to more premium models, but you still get GPS capabilities that sync with multiple satellite systems, all of the ABC functions you could ever want, solar charging on some models, and apps for sports, with the watch also conforming to the 810 Military Standard for shock and water resistance. While it was only around at the tail end of the GWOT and does not appear to have been purchased en masse through official channels, the Instinct often appears on the wrist of military members during the final years of the conflict. Garmin Fenix - $640-1,000 A Garmin Fenix on the wrist of a US Air Force Pararescueman in 2019. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The most widely purchased wrist-worn Garmin during the GWOT and now in its seventh iteration, the Fenix was launched in 2012 as an outdoors smartwatch with an impressive array of fitness functions in addition to GPS capabilities. A search of government records reveals dozens of orders for Garmin Fenix models starting with an AFSOC order in 2015 with continuous follow-up orders from the Air Force’s SpecOps community ever since. Further orders for Fenix models have come from the US Army’s Air Combat Command, 855th Aircraft Maintenance Squadron, and the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA). Beyond these official orders, many other small-scale orders were likely placed through civilian channels with government funds. Garmin Tactix - $1,000-1,600 A US Navy SEAL wears a Garmin Fenix or Tactix during training operations. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Essentially a special version of the Fenix, the Garmin Tactix takes the GPS and fitness functions and adds features specific to use in tactical or military environments including a display mode intended for use with night vision, ballistics calculators, and a jumpmaster mode for parachuting. As you’d expect, the Tactix is popular among military organizations, having been ordered by AFSOC as early as 2015, certain US Marine Corps units including Marine Corps Air Station Cherry Point, and the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) over the years. Whether Digital Or Analog, Use Your Tools Whether we like it or not, most modern operators trust digital tool watches—even Apple Watches—over Swiss luxury brands. While we often profile Intelligence Officers and Special Operators wearing Seikos and fine Swiss timepieces, the fact is that the majority of practitioners leverage DTWs to complete their tasks. From G-Shock to Suunto to Timex to Garmin or even the Apple Watch, digital watches served as tools on every front of the Global War On Terror, the most impactful global conflict in modern times, evolving along the way to include smartwatch-style capabilities that, while challenging in some respects, provide a modern soldier or intelligence asset with an unprecedented level of technical capability. As watch enthusiasts, we would perhaps like to see more analog mechanical watches on the wrists of modern military members. Still, in many cases, digital watches are simply a better tool for the job. Whether you’re wearing an Omega Seamaster or a Casio F91W, as long as you live the “Use Your Tools” ethos, we’re here for you. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches

Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley)   For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability  was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard.  If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch

Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months.  If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.  Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch

Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul -  A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry.  To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex?  It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches:  A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives.   Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake.  The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements.   Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD

Picking More Reasonable Timepieces For History's Most Famous Secret Agent When it comes to Watches of Espionage, James Bond is the elephant in the room. While there is a significant gap between real-world intelligence operations and Hollywood's depiction, Ian Fleming’s character has had an indelible impact on our community’s watch culture. We know several real “spies” who purchased an Omega or Rolex because of the Bond connection. Even before the legendary films, 007 was already closely linked to the world of horology. Fleming, the legendary author behind Bond, even went so far as to name names, calling out a “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” in his 1954 novel, Live and Let Die while unfortunately failing to identify a specific model. Likely inspired by Fleming’s reference 1016 Explorer, many regard the James Bond of the literary world as an Explorer man as well. However, 1962’s Dr. No, the secret agent’s first foray into film, would forever alter Bond’s history with Rolex, with Sean Connery serving up a full-screen wrist shot of a Submariner reference 6538. Beyond a few abbreviated sojourns into other brands including Breitling, Seiko, and Hamilton, the Bond of film was primarily a Rolex guy until 1995’s GoldenEye where Irish actor Pierce Brosnan famously wore an Omega Seamaster Professional, a seismic shift for watch enthusiasts. In the Dispatch, we’ve argued for tradition in favor of The Crown in the past with an excellent counter-argument coming from Caleb Daniels in favor of Omega, which remains Bond’s chosen brand. It’s a fun debate, but what watch would a former British SpecOps turned “Secret Agent” really wear? Bond’s Rolex Submariner 6538 in Dr. No and the OMEGA Seamaster Professional in GoldenEye are both icons, but what if they’re not the right picks?  Taking a step back, there’s a good chance a real “secret agent" using their license to kill on MI6’s behalf wouldn’t wear a luxury watch at all. With the most up-to-date Rolex Submariner Date reference 126610 coming in at $10,250 (assuming you can get one) and Omega’s 007 Edition No Time To Die Seamaster priced right at ten grand US, the biggest issue here is probably cost taking into account Bond’s role as a civil servant. Add to that the ostentatious nature of these heavily-branded luxury watches for a guy who would probably prefer a low profile, and some other timepieces just might be better suited to Bond’s profession. In addition, we'd argue our Bond would also favor British watchmaking brands, with more great options than ever before coming from the UK. In this Dispatch, we’ll share our picks for which watch we think our more reasonable 007 would wear. CWC SBS Diver Issue Price: $750  Given Bond’s insurmountable Britishness, we would argue it makes sense to look at brands with strong ties to the Empire as well as the Ministry of Defense (MOD). The obvious choice is a brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, CWC or Cabot Watch Company, which was founded in 1972 for no reason other than supplying the MOD. For maritime specialist units including the Royal Marines and Special Boat Service, CWC has long supplied the SBS Diver Issue, a PVD-coated descendant of the original Royal Navy Diver’s watch that succeeded the Rolex Military Submariner in 1980. We know several former British SBS members who still have, and wear, their issued SBS, making this a logical watch for Bond. Robert 'Bob' Hawkins (1961-2023) was a legend in the Mine Warfare Clearance Diving community. Like Bond, Hawkins was a Commander in the Royal Navy and is seen here wearing the CWC SBS Diver Issue. With 300 meters of water resistance, the utility offered by day and date functions, and excellent legibility, the SBS Diver Issue is an excellent option for the modern British secret agent whether he’s doing some Thunderball-style diving combat or simply keeping a lower profile. Fixed lug bars mean Bond is stuck with pull-through straps, but for a secret agent who inspired a namesake nylon strap color scheme, it shouldn’t be a problem.  Vertex M100A Price: $2,625  For a more old-school look that also leans into the literary Bond who many argue wore a Rolex Explorer, we have the Vertex M100A. Dating back to 1912, Vertex is another brand closely associated with the Ministry of Defense, having produced watches for the British military as early as the First World War. Of the twelve manufacturers of the legendary “Dirty Dozen” watches produced for the Allied war effort in World War II, Vertex was the only British option, with the modern M100A calling back to that history with its core design while making room for more modern watchmaking standards and specifications. But what does James Bond have to do with a WWII field watch, you may ask? (Photo Credit: WatchGecko) Thunderball aside, the vast majority of Bond’s adventures both tactical and otherwise have taken place in the dry, and we might argue some of the key elements of a perfect Bond watch would be—even more than water resistance—legibility, durability, and the timeless style so often associated with Bond’s on-screen portrayals. Compared to something like the aforementioned blacked-out CWC, the Vertex would also be a lot easier to wear with a tux.  Elliot Brown Holton Professional Price: $541 Where the CWC SBS celebrates its history of issue to the Special Boat Service in both name and marketing, the Holton Professional from Elliot Brown takes a more subtle approach to its special operations associations. Founded in 2013, the founding principle of Elliot Brown’s collection is durability, with many of the watches finding favor within the British Military. Based in Poole, the elite Special Boat Service approached Elliot Brown in 2015 to help design a watch for the unit to issue. The result was the Holton Professional, a watch that has earned an NSN or Nato Stock Number making it available for official issue to military forces. Coming from another British brand, and with a quartz movement, hardened stainless steel bezel, and C3 Super-LumiNova, the Holton also presents a solid option for someone like Bond who is likely to be harder on his watches than most. For deep nerds, Bond has an entirely imagined special operations background, meaning Commander Bond may have either been issued the Holton Professional or purchased a special version as part of a smaller unit-specific order. Bremont S302 Price $4,200  Currently the subject of some well-deserved controversy regarding a recent rebranding effort, Bremont is still among our top picks for James Bond. Despite its foundations in aviation, Bremont also boasts an impressive array of diving-oriented watches under the Supermarine name. For a more luxurious option compared to some of the other watches we’ve highlighted, we select the S302 for Bond, a watch that combines 300 meters of water resistance with the useful addition of a GMT function. Where some of our choices thus far are more utilitarian and even tactical, Bremont manages to straddle the line, feeling just almost as at home with a suit from Savile Row as it does with a wetsuit, no mean feat. The S302’s GMT is particularly appropriate as well. As we discussed in our Dispatch unpacking Zulu Time, having a second timezone at a glance provides tremendous upside for an asset coordinating with a broader multi-agency effort. Besides, Bremont is one of the few companies that has actually made a unit watch for the British Secret Intelligence Service.  Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Price: $1,095 Long scolded as a microbrand rehashing established designs, Christopher Ward has stepped up massively in recent years and is another brand with a strong following in the W.O.E. community, at an affordable price point. For a government employee like James Bond, the price of the C60 Trident Pro, one of Christopher Ward’s marquee dive watches, is fair. Add to that the watch’s solid water resistance and legible dial format and we have another under-the-radar pick for Bond. Adding an element of legitimacy, Christopher Ward has been quietly collaborating with numerous military units in recent years. Despite solid finishing for the price range, the Trident isn’t ostentatious and doesn’t advertise to prying eyes or invite further scrutiny. Bamford London GMT Price: $1,500  Better known for Bamford Watch Department’s watch customizations and collaborations with established watchmakers from the luxury tier, George Bamford also produces a more attainable line of wholly designed watches under the Bamford London moniker. Assuming our modern Bond was a man of more avant-garde styling who rubbed shoulders with Eton graduates, something like the Bamford London GMT could make a lot of sense.  Available in a wide array of dial colors, Bamford’s GMT is housed within a reasonable 40mm case complete with an internal rotating GMT bezel that obviates the risk of accidentally changing the secondary timezone on display. For the $1,500 asking price, Bond also gets an excellent bracelet, 100 meters of water resistance, as well as a sub-12mm case height that should work as well with a tuxedo as it would with a woolen commando sweater.  Arken Alterum Price: $750  A true microbrand at this stage, Arken presents a wild card choice for Bond. Housed within a scratch-resistant titanium case, the Alterum, the second watch from the brand, fuses GMT functionality with 200 meters of water resistance and a design format that is a lot further afield than many of our previous choices. Admittedly, the Alterum dial serves up a lot of information including the second time zone, managed by a GMT hand, as well as a date sub-register and an intriguing day/night indicator executed with a pair of apertures on the dial’s lower half. Despite the additional complexity, the overall effect is clean, subtle, and the kind of thing Bond could easily wear in virtually any environment without anyone asking too many questions.  Final Thoughts For the diehard Rolex and Omega James Bond fanboys, the picks in this Dispatch may be blasphemous. We invite you to submit your counterarguments in the comments. In any counterpoints, it's important to remember that for intelligence professionals like Bond, watches are, first and foremost, a tool. While there is a significant watch luxury watch culture in espionage, it’s not so hard to imagine a real-life James Bond might benefit from a watch that won’t get him mugged by some scooter-riding London street toughs. As for Bond's strap of choice, we'd argue 007 would do his best work with a Five Eye (FVEY). -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Does Rolex Make Mistakes? The Motley 8 - Error Batman Bezel

Materials, History, Fit, & Which Strap Is Right For You One of the most common ways for members of our community to customize their watches is with a new strap that is, in either material or design, more appropriate for austere conditions. Over the past couple of years, we have grown our strap collection to include more refined options made from domestically sourced leather and more attainable choices designed to excel in the most extreme scenarios. We are often asked what is the best strap for a given use case, and in this Dispatch, we’ll provide an overview of our strap collection including some pros and cons, historical and design background, and recommendations based on some of the questions we are most commonly asked. As always, everything we make is developed for the quiet professional, someone who appreciates the history of Intelligence and Special Operations and honors those who came before us. W.O.E. Fabric Straps Closely associated with military watches, pull-through fabric watch straps trace their origins to the mid-century when they were utilized by American and British armed forces, with the most popular format tracing dating back to 1973 and a British Military design known as the G10. Commonly issued to the British Ministry of Defense, the G10 also cemented the formula for the majority of nylon watch straps to follow. In starting our collection of fabric watch straps, we partnered with veteran-owned and UK-based Zulu Alpha Straps to create the most premium fabric straps possible which are also manufactured in Great Britain. Then, to provide a more attainable alternative that also conforms to the obsessive quality standards of our community, we designed the Five Eye nylon strap that we believe is the best on the market for the price. Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap - $35-38 Named after the intelligence-sharing alliance of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States, the Five Eye (FVEY) Nylon Watch Strap is our modern take on the iconic British Military G10 design from 1973. This collection is more attainable compared to our Zulu Alpha collaborations while still providing a premium wearing experience and unrivaled durability for a watch of this style. The Five Eye is built from a custom matte woven material with a reinforced stitched tip and is complete with our custom stainless steel hardware. We didn’t reinvent the wheel but did take the original design to the next level with modern materials, manufacturing standards, and colors tailored to the unique needs of our community. To suit a wider variety of watches, we offer solid colors, striped variants, and Five Eye straps with black-coated PVD hardware, all in 20 and 22-mm sizes that will fit wrists from 6.25 to 9 IN (15.9 to 22.9 CM). Of note, like all “affordable” nylon straps, these are produced in Asia. Cons: With almost four hundred five-star reviews, the Five Eye doesn’t have a lot of cons, but like any nylon strap, the look isn’t elegant or refined and wouldn’t be a great pairing for dressier watches. ORDER HERE Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 Modeled off traditional hook-and-loop dive watch straps, the Glomar Explorer is a premium single-pass adjustable adventure strap for those who use their watches as tools. We set out to create a premium “hook and loop” watch strap, something that many consider an oxymoron. After many iterations over a six-month period and extensive testing, we finally came up with the design of the Glomar Explorer. We developed an ultra-thin custom matte weave nylon construction, a custom 316L stainless steel engraved buckle, and a strap keeper to ensure the watch remains secure on your wrist. The Glomar Explorer is available in two lengths, Short (for wrists between 5.5 to 6.5 IN/14 to 16.5 CM) and Standard (for wrists between 6.5 to 8.5 IN/16.5 to 21.5 CM), and in two colors: black and admiralty grey with olive green coming soon. The strap name is derived from USNS Hughes Glomar Explorer, a deep-sea drillship platform that was used by the CIA to recover a Soviet submarine K-129 in the Pacific Ocean in 1974. To be clear, this is not your grandpa’s Walmart hook and loop strap. Cons: With a casual and utilitarian look, a hook and loop strap simply isn’t going to be for everyone. Sizing will also be an issue for some as the wearing experience will depend on the lug length of the watch in question, wrist size, and how tightly the strap is worn.  ORDER HERE Single Pass Zulu Alpha Strap 4.0 - $145 It’s crazy to think we’re on the fourth iteration of our collaboration with Zulu Alpha, one of the world’s premier makers of fabric straps and a supplier of other webbing items to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD). Back in 2022, we started with the 1.0, with each subsequent variant incorporating color changes and small upgrades inspired by the community. Our Single Pass Zulu Alpha 4.0 is the culmination of everything we’ve learned working with Zulu Alpha and direct feedback from end users. Completely constructed in Great Britain, the 4.0 is 11.8 IN (30 CM) long, 1.2mm thick, and complete with a uniquely adhered patch with the W.O.E. Spearhead logo. Secured by way of an over-engineered stainless steel buckle that is also available with a PVD finish, the 4.0 is available in both 20 and 22-mm widths and will fit the vast majority of adult wrists. If you’re looking for the most premium, capable, and durable fabric strap on the market, this is it, full stop. Cons: Every aspect of our Zulu Alpha straps is ultra-premium, produced entirely in the UK, and designed without compromise. The price reflects our no-holds-barred approach to a fabric watch strap for the most extreme conditions. ORDER HERE USA Five Eye - Third Option Foundation - $40 While it’s otherwise the same as our standard Five Eye Straps, our USA Third Option Foundation Fundraiser offers the most eye-catching visual format in our entire collection with a subtle play on the red, white, and blue color scheme. Benefitting CIA paramilitary officers and their families, $20 (50%) of every USA Five Eye sale goes directly to Third Option Foundation. Just as at home sipping PBR in your local dive bar as it is sailing the Cape on your dad’s catamaran, the USA Stripe Five Eye is the undisputed strap of summer. Available in both 20 and 22mm, the USA Five Eye can also be purchased with PVD hardware, a look works a lot better than we thought it would. Cons: Celebrating freedom and donating to charity aren’t for everyone.  This strap is a limited edition. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. ORDER HERE W.O.E Leather Straps While there is a lot of virtue signaling and overstated marketing language associated with goods that are “Made in America”, supporting small businesses in the United States is in line with our core beliefs as a community. This is especially true when it comes to leather goods. There is no shortage of reasonably high-quality leather straps imported from Asia, but we believe the finest leather straps come from right here in the USA or, in some cases, Europe.  With that in mind, our collection of leather straps is entirely produced by hand in small batches from the finest quality materials in the United States or Europe, with each strap demonstrating subtle differences and the ability to patina over time for a custom look and feel. Like all leather straps, these are not your best options for use in or around water but do provide a durable and handsome pairing for field watches, vintage divers on desk duty, or any other refined watch in your collection. Jedburgh Leather Watch Strap - $115 Named after the Jedburgh teams of the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), “The Jedburgh” was W.O.E’s first leather strap, handmade in the USA with American-made English bridle leather. Available to fit 20 and 22-mm lugs, the Jedburgh is complete with a subtle W.O.E. Spearhead stamp at the tip, white hand stitching throughout, and a buckle available in either polished stainless steel or black-coated PVD. The Jedburgh is designed to break in for a comfortable custom fit that is best for wrists between 5.75 to 7.5 IN (14.6 to 19.1 CM). For a refined look, the Jedburgh also tapers 4 millimeters from the lugs to the buckle, meaning the buckle measures 16mm on the 20mm strap and 18mm for the 22mm variant. Cons: Tapering from 20 to 16mm and shorter than some of our straps, the Jedburgh is not the best choice for larger wrists or heavier watches. While we’ve seen some of you guys push the envelope, the Jedburgh is also not the best option for extreme use i.e. jumping out of airplanes. ORDER HERE Horween Leather and Canvas Strap - $185 Produced in the United States in extremely limited quantities, our Leather and Canvas Strap pairs Horween leather tanned in Chicago with repurposed camouflage canvas from surplus military uniforms. These robust straps were designed by W.O.E. in collaboration with Greg Stevens Design, one of the best in the custom leather strap business, and manufactured by hand in Utah. Available in 20 and 22-mm widths, the Leather and Canvas strap is thicker than the Jedburgh and does not taper, making this strap an excellent choice for heavier watches while being designed to fit wrist sizes between 6.25 to 7.75 IN (15.9 to 19.7 CM). Given our use of repurposed military uniforms, this strap also offers a wide range of variation in terms of the actual color and condition of the canvas material. Complete with a signed stainless steel buckle, the Leather and Canvas Strap is a more rugged leather option ideally suited for larger watches and larger wrists. Cons: Manufactured without taper and with a less subtle look compared to many of our straps, our Leather and Canvas Strap is unapologetically extreme and therefore not for everyone. ORDER HERE Leather Single Pass Zulu - $92 Our newest leather strap, the Leather Single Pass Zulu is intended to serve as a bridge between our leather strap collection and the legendary nylon pull-through straps long favored by military members and divers. Manufactured in the United States from a single layer of premium cowhide measuring 1.4mm thick, the Leather Single Pass Zulu also provides a “pull up” effect meaning the leather lightens when stretched or creased, creating a custom finish unique to your wearing experience. In comparison to many nylon pull-through straps, the tail on our Single Pass Zulu is shorter, and the hardware is closer together, designed for wrists up to 7.5 IN (19.1 CM). With hand stitching and more rugged leather material, the Single Pass Zulu is our most casual leather strap, pairing well with utilitarian tool watches.  Cons: Despite being modeled after nylon straps designed for diving, this leather strap is not intended for in-water use. Wearing leather straps on dive watches is a controversial topic, anyway.  ORDER HERE Final Thoughts:  While we believe there is a strap in our collection that will work for virtually any watch or scenario, like choosing a new watch, strap selection is highly individual and personal. There is no one-size-fits-all solution and like with any tool, we encourage you to experiment and find out what works best for you. Subsequent iterations of our straps will always be informed by your feedback. Be sure to let us know what you think.  View our entire strap collection HERE.

A Capable Timepiece Is An Essential Tool For Service Members Timepieces intended for the military have inspired the broader watch industry since the earliest days of wristwatches. Names like the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Breguet Type XX, and Hamilton Khaki have all been influenced by or owe their very existence to military use. Buying a watch can be challenging and modern watch marketing clouds the picture, with major watch brands seeking an edge by calling out tenuous or altogether false associations with certain hyped military organizations or units, particularly from the world of special operations. In reality, most modern military members utilize digital tool watches (D.T.W.) to perform their duties, seeking attainability and utility above all else. But, as we’ve so often documented in the W.O.E. Dispatch, a growing subset of the military and the Intelligence Community value the combination of utility, heritage, and mechanical intrigue presented by analog timepieces. In addition, many outside the military reach for military watches because they provide not only a rugged aesthetic but also a higher level of legibility and durability in comparison to more pedestrian options. In this Dispatch, we’ll present our choices for analog watches intended for military members operating in the most common environments: land, sea, and air. If you’re on the cusp of graduating from basic training, officer candidate school (OCS), another more specialized pipeline, or you’re just a regular civilian who appreciates the “Use Your Tools” ethos, our picks represent a wide range of price points, spanning affordable options for the brand-new privates out there as well as a few luxury options for the academy ring-knockers with family manors in the Hamptons. Land - Watches For The Field Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical - $229 Timex has surprisingly deep military associations dating back to World War I when the brand created specialized pocket watches for artillery gunners. Also known for watches worn by US presidents and its plastic, disposable field watches provided to the US Army in the 1980s, modern Timex has a legitimate right to the field watch DNA embodied by the Expedition North Field Mechanical. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the North Field Mechanical offers 100 meters of water resistance, a hand-winding mechanical caliber, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, rare specs for this price range that combine to represent a solid field watch for any infantryman on a budget. CWC G10 Military Issue Watch - $300  In contrast to almost every other brand on this list, CWC was created for no reason other than to supply military watches to the British Ministry of Defense (MOD), providing its first quartz-powered G10 in 1980. The modern G10 is — beyond a slimmer case profile — almost identical to the original, still equipped with fixed lug bars, a Swiss quartz caliber, a legible dial and handset, a battery hatch for easy battery changes, and a relatively modest 50 meters of water resistance. Over 200,000 of these simple field watches have been issued over the years, serving as further proof of the utility of this legendary British field watch design. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical - $420 Almost a Canadian answer to a brand like CWC, Marathon was founded in 1939 and was already supplying watches and clocks to the Allied war effort by 1941. Better known for its SAR collection of dive watches, Marathon also produces a large volume of its General Purpose Mechanical field watches for military contracts. Powered by a Seiko NH35, the automatic GPM is housed within a 34mm High-Impact Composite Fibreshell case paired with a stainless steel bezel. Easily visible at night thanks to tritium gas tubes on the dial and hands, the GPM’s smaller size is actually an asset, making the watch unobtrusive when paired with a bunch of tactical equipment. As a note for anyone less familiar with watch sizes, the combination of the 34mm case and a 16-millimeter wide strap means the GPM wears relatively small. Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic - $695  A supplier to the US Military since the First World War, Hamilton is probably the number one name in field watches thanks to its heritage and the value proposition offered by the modern Khaki Field collection. Our pick for this list is the Khaki Field Automatic, offering a more modern design compared to its more-celebrated hand-winding sibling, the Khaki Field Mechanical, as well as 100 meters of water resistance, and a Swiss automatic caliber offering 80 hours of power reserve. If you’re newer to watches and looking for a proven do-it-all field design that is as appropriate for daily wear as military service, this is going to be one of your best bets. Seiko Alpinist SPB121 - $725  The successor to the SARB017, an all-time watch enthusiast favorite from Seiko, the SPB121 is the modern form of the Alpinist, which is the Japanese brand’s explorer’s or field watch. Measuring 39.5mm in diameter, the Alpinist has a few quirks including the use of a cyclops, the odd pairing of green and gold on the dial and hands, and an internal compass bezel. Still, a legible design, impressive lume, and a ridiculous-for-this-category 200 meters of water resistance mean the Alpinist is a field watch deserving of Seiko’s heritage in this department, having been the producer of capable field watches for specialized units including MACV-SOG during the Vietnam War. Tudor Ranger - $3,300  Once positioned as a cheaper Rolex alternative within the same family business structure, modern Tudor has become so much more than that. As we’ve established many times in the Dispatch, Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) are very much a thing including special unit versions of the brand’s dive watches, the Black Bay and Pelagos, as well as the brand’s Explorer-like field watch, the Ranger. Also one of the least expensive sports watches in the collection, the modern Ranger is now 39mm in diameter, powered by an in-house caliber, and capable of hard use for anyone looking to test the “Use Your Tools” ethos on a Swiss luxury watch. Rolex Explorer 40 - $7,700 Assuming you’re an Academy graduate, former captain of the polo team, daddy’s special boy, and a newly minted second lieutenant, you may be able to flex something like the Rolex Explorer 40 in uniform. An inspiration for virtually the entire Rolex sport collection, the Explorer as a model family has incredible chops in the arena of mountaineering history, having accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their 1953 ascent of the world's tallest mountain. Today serving more as a luxury item given the price point, the Explorer is still one hell of a watch for anything outdoors, but likely not a serious option for most service members relying upon their biweekly direct deposit. Sea - Watches For The Maritime Environment Scurfa Diver One D1-500 - $250  To put it mildly, the advent of so-called “microbrands” has changed the watch landscape forever, bringing previously unobtainable features and specifications to price points once thought unimaginable. A great example of this trend is Scurfa Watches founded by commercial saturation diver Paul Scurfield. For around $250, the Diver One serves up a domed sapphire crystal, 500 meters of water resistance, a real helium escape valve tested by the founder, some of the best lume on this entire list, and a custom rubber strap. For anyone on the aquatic end of the military searching for a durable dive watch for a more affordable price even compared to brands like Seiko or Citizen, Scurfa is one of the more compelling options to explore. Seiko Prospex SRPE99 - $550  Affectionately known to enthusiasts as the “Turtle” for its cushion case shape, the SRPE99 is inspired by the older 6309, one of Seiko’s most iconic dive watch designs and a watch issued to numerous special operations units including the US Navy SEALs. Revived in 2016, the modern Turtle provides hacking and hand-winding functionality, a larger 45mm case that thankfully wears smaller thanks to its shorter lugs, and much of the old-school Turtle DNA throughout the dial and hands. With the SKX having been discontinued a few years back, the Turtle is Seiko’s flagship automatic diver in this price bracket. Seiko makes some of the most effective utilitarian dive watches on the market, and the Turtle — whichever variant you go for — is a great place to start for any military diver. Tornek-Rayville TR-660 - $895  One of the more intriguing tales in dive watch history, the original Tornek-Rayville was essentially a modified Blancpain Fifty Fathoms intended to subvert the Buy American Act requiring military organizations to purchase US-made goods. Designed for US Navy SEALs and other amphibious special operators, vintage Tornek-Rayville TR-900s have become prohibitively expensive for most, making Mk II and Bill Yao’s relaunch of the brand and watch a couple of years back all the more exciting. While it stays close to the vintage look, the modern TR-660 is subtly upgraded everywhere you look from the Seiko automatic caliber to the domed sapphire crystal to the custom-woven nylon strap. If celebrating the old-school with a modern diving tool appeals to you, Tornek-Rayville is a niche pick worthy of a closer look. Citizen Aqualand JP2007-17W - $550  In military and commercial diving circles, Citizen is one of the top names in the game thanks to models like the Aqualand, an analog-digital diver that debuted in 1985. An ISO-6425-rated professional dive watch, the Aqualand combines diving functionality including a depth gauge in a robust utilitarian package that simply works, earning fans among Navy SEALs and other amphibious military units. The modern Aqualand appears almost unchanged compared to the OG other than a new caliber using one battery instead of three on the older model. Last year, Citizen unveiled the JP2007-17W, a new Aqualand with a full lume dial housed within a dark grey PVD case. For the price, it’s among the best picks on this list for anyone doing the military’s wettest and saltiest work. Marathon GSAR 41mm - $1,500  Many of the watches on this list are great for military divers, but only the Marathon GSAR is currently for military and government issue through official supply channels. Surprisingly, the SAR family of watches has a history closely linked to the enthusiast community, with Marathon having tapped the head of a niche military watch forum for help designing the watch in 2001. Intended for Canadian Air Force Search and Rescue Technicians (SAR Techs), the modern GSAR or Government Search And Rescue provides 300 meters of water resistance, a Swiss automatic caliber, tritium tubes on the dial and hands, and one of the best rubber straps in the price range. Our in-house maritime expert, Benjamin Lowry, recently went diving with the SAR collection, confirming its utility in the underwater environment.  Sinn U50 Hydro - $2,690  Another brand closely associated with military diving is Sinn, which was founded by a pilot named Helmut Sinn in 1961. Despite its aviation heritage, Sinn is well known for dive watches backed by impressive tech not commonly seen elsewhere including the oil-filled approach utilized in the new U50 Hydro. Based on the 41mm U50, the U50 Hydro swaps an automatic movement for quartz which is the only option when the central case is filled with oil, a seldom seen method of combatting water pressure that makes the watch all but pressure-proof. Another oil-filled watch from Sinn is standard issue for the KSM or Kommando Spezialkräfte der Marine, essentially the German Navy SEAL equivalent and the brand also makes special “mission timers” for the GSG 9, the German Federal Police’s special operations unit. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 A favorite of the W.O.E. team, our next pick is the Tudor Pelagos 39, the hotly-anticipated smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos that is just a bit too large for some wrists. While it’s not cheap, Tudor presents a solid value for what you’re getting in a modern luxury dive watch from Switzerland, with the P39 housed within a grade 2 titanium case and equipped with a manufacture caliber providing 70 hours of power reserve. The Pelagos FXD might seem like the obvious choice here, but we’re going with the 39 for its versatility, a watch that looks just as appropriate on its rubber strap with dive gear as it does on its bracelet with a dress uniform. Whether we like it or not, most knuckle-dragging enlisted divers simply aren’t reaching for a $5,000 watch for actual diving duties. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $5,900  Often associated with James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 is also a watch with legitimate military history including use by the Special Boat Service, Danish Frogmen, and the US Navy SEALs. Originally intended as a direct competitor to the Rolex Submariner, Omega’s professional diving watch now comes in at around half the trading price of a regular Sub while offering finishing and specifications that exceed the Rolex in some departments. Rather than simply engraving a caseback for special orders from military organizations, Omega also has a completely different version of the Diver 300 with a matte-finished case and bracelet, no-date dial, and a special color for its luminescent material. The days of military organizations issuing watches like the Seamaster are long gone, but for anyone seeking a dive watch offering a blend of military provenance and luxury, the Seamaster Diver 300 is one of the better options.  Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm - $16,600  To get it out there right up front, a $17,000 watch probably isn’t going to be the number one pick for military members, but it is important to pay homage to the original gangsters in this space. Dating back to 1953 and designed specifically for the needs of French commando frogmen, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms cemented the format we now innately understand as the prototypical dive watch. Having climbed the ranks of luxury brands over the past 70 years, the recently-released Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Titanium 42mm isn’t for everyone given its price tag, but would still serve as one hell of a dive watch for anyone with the scratch. Air  - Watches For Pilots & Aircrew Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 - $460  Beyond durability, low-pressure resistance, and legibility, the ability to track a second timezone is one of the most useful aspects of a pilot’s watch. If there has been one major change in more affordable watches in the past few years, it is the advent of less expensive mechanical GMT watches, with Seiko’s SSK collection leading the way. For under $500, the SSK001 offers a friction-fit, bidirectional GMT bezel, an automatic “caller” GMT caliber, and the established case silhouette and dial format calling back to Seiko’s legendary SKX007 and SKX009. Also backed by 100 meters of water resistance, the Seiko SSK001 is one of the better inexpensive GMT watches on the market and ideal for a budding military pilot while also being a brand with extensive service history in the US Military in particular. Sangin Kinetic II - $600  Despite plenty of negative outcomes from the Global War On Terror, one of the positives has been the rise of entrepreneurship among GWOT veterans whether we’re talking about coffee, apparel brands, knives, or watches. Sangin was founded by a Marine Recon Raider and specializes in watches intended for military environments while also representing solid value for what you’re getting. The Kinetic II is Sangin’s purpose-built aviator’s watch, the result of extensive testing by over forty military pilots and aircrew. With a ridiculous 300 meters of water resistance, Swiss-made Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands, and a Swiss Ronda GMT quartz caliber, the Kinetic II is a lesser-known but not less capable option for any military pilot looking to celebrate the community with a legitimate tool watch. Longines Spirit Zulu Time - $3,150  Another brand with legendary status in the arena of pilot’s watches is Longines which produced specialized watches intended for flight for none other than Charles Lindbergh. Also once a supplier to the Czech military, modern Longines still makes some excellent watches for pilots including the Spirit Zulu Time. With refined looks, design DNA that calls back to vintage Longines designs, and an impressive caliber offering “true” GMT (or Zulu Time) functionality and 72 hours of power reserve, the Zulu Time is one of the better “entry-to-luxury” options for a GMT watch today. Of interest to military pilots, the Zulu Time is also available on a wide range of straps including an excellent leather strap with a micro-adjusting clasp, a traditional nylon strap, and a well-done stainless steel bracelet. Bremont U-2 - $4,950 Coming from a brand founded by a pair of pilots, Bremont was always going to need to be on this list. Also one of the primary producers of “unit watches” in the current watchmaking landscape, Bremont’s U-2, which was designed with input from serving military pilots, is our pick for this list. Housed within a 43mm case made of hardened steel, the chronometer movement inside the U-2 is located within a rubberized movement mount that reduces the effect of shocks. Also including an internal rotating bezel operated by way of one of the two crowns, the U-2 can be used for a variety of different navigational computations. There have been numerous unit-specific versions of Bremont watches over the years, the U-2 is one of the most common models chosen by military aviation professionals for good reason. Breitling Navitimer - $9,850 Among the all-time icons in the world of aviation timekeeping, the Breitling Navitimer is at or very near the top, having been created with pilots in mind back in 1953 in association with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). Like a few other watches on this list, Breitling has ascended to a more luxurious position but still has a strong history of use by military pilots as well as numerous other sketchy dudes. Looking at the functionality, the Navitimer is of course a chronograph but also offers a unique rotating internal bezel that can be used for a wide range of navigational and computational functions directly related to the needs of pilots in the air. You wouldn’t necessarily think of a watch costing nine grand on the wrist of a military pilot, but when it comes to the Breitling Navitimer and a few other models from the brand including the Aerospace and Emergency, it happens more often than you’d imagine. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX - $5,250  Used by military pilots on both sides of World War II, IWC is another brand with serious legitimacy in the world of military aviation. While IWC’s chronographs including the Top Gun collection receive a lot of the shine, our pick in this category is the Mark XX which traces its history to the Mark XI, a watch produced for the British Military by IWC (and other brands) in the wake of the Second World War. Today, the Mark series serves as a robust time-only watch honoring IWC’s heritage in the space while also providing crystal clear legibility for modern pilots. Recently reimagined, the Mark XX offers 100 meters of water resistance and a more wearable case compared to previous iterations. For the price, the movement is also solid, providing an extended five-day or 120-hour power reserve. Rolex GMT-Master II - $10,900  In the arena of sports GMT watches, whether we like it or not, one name reigns supreme: The Rolex GMT-Master II. When the original GMT-Master was unveiled in 1954, the watch aligned with the early jet-setting era and the advent of business travel, but the GMT-Master and later the GMT-Master II would become legendary in our community thanks to the watch’s use by pilots as well as special operations personnel. One might argue the modern GMT-Master II feels more jewel than tool, but there are still numerous instances of military members selecting this iconic model for hard use in austere environments including the cockpit. Final Thoughts As we mentioned, any of the watches in this could be replaced by a capable digital tool watch, but for anyone in uniform who values the mechanical intrigue and heritage represented by a quality timepiece, this list is for you. Our goal is to let this be a living article that we can add as we go until we’ve created the most complete list of excellent analog military watches on the internet. If you think something is missing, be sure to let us know in the comments. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: Watches of Diplomatic Security   *As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various watches in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission.

The Watches of Espionage community can be broken down into two segments: professional watch nerds tired of the traditional watch media; and complete newbies, those initially attracted by Military and Intelligence content but with little interest in watches.  Over time, the latter group usually develops an interest in watches and regularly asks where to begin.   This Dispatch is for you, newbies.  It’s a cheat sheet for breaking into the world of watches. Our goal is simple: to cultivate and preserve watch culture in the NatSec community.  We have no commercial relationships with any of the brands mentioned, and we’re brand-agnostic. (James Rupley) Step 1: Do your research:  There are more resources than ever on watches, and if you are reading this then you’ve already demonstrated that you’re far enough down the rabbit hole and you want to know more.  We at W.O.E. do not do traditional watch reviews- but other platforms do and do it well.  Hodinkee, Bark and Jack, Teddy Baldassarre, Fratello, aBlogtoWatch, etc.  There are plenty of great outlets with different perspectives putting out content on Youtube, online editorial platforms, and podcasts. But it’s important to exercise caution when it comes to any enthusiast media, as much of the content on these sites are paid advertisements and/or heavily influenced by the watch brands.  Read our Covert Influence In Watch Media piece so that you approach it with a skeptical eye. Step 2:  Talk with people. The simple lost art of conversation.  Ask your friends, coworkers and family members about their watches.  See a guy with an interesting watch on at a bar, coffee shop, or even at the urinal? Ask him what he is wearing.  Why did he buy that specific watch?  What does he like and dislike about it?  Ask to try it on. Most people into watches want nothing more than to talk about them. Major cities likely have watch meetups. RedBar Group is the largest and most well-known of these group meet ups.  I have never been to a watch meet up but know a lot of people enjoy this community and it is a great way to get your hands on lots of watches in the wild. Step 3:  Visit an AD.  An “Authorized Dealer” is a store that sells watches from major brands, and they have an official relationship with said brands.  We recommend visiting a dealer with a larger selection of brands so that you can physically try on different watches to see what works for you.  Tourneau, Watches of Switzerland, and Bucherer are some of the largest ones, but chances are even your local mall has a store that sells watches. Sales associates can be notoriously pretentious and they’re not always “watch guys” but there is something to be learned from everyone.  At a minimum they should have the training to explain the range on the market. Step 4:  Buy your first watch.  After spending a few weeks/months on steps 1-3, you should have a general idea of what interests you.  It’s time to buy your first watch. Regardless of one's socioeconomic status and access to disposable income, we recommend starting with a watch under-$1,000, and even under $500 is better.  Just because you can afford a Rolex doesn't mean you should start there.  Check out our previous Dispatch on “Best watches under $1,000” for some thoughts from a broad range of practitioners with experience. (James Rupley) Step 5:  Pause - wear your watch, repeat steps 1-3.  It’s tempting to immediately focus on the next watch, always wanting more.  But wear your watch, find out what you like/dislike about it. Sometimes you learn things about your taste only after wearing a watch for a while. Think about how it feels on your wrist, how it works with your lifestyle, etc. Most importantly, however, is to make sure that the watch works as an extension of your own life philosophy. Maybe the values of the brand don’t line up with your own–or maybe they do. This is the time to learn. (James Rupley) Step 6: Accessorize.  A strap is a great way to change up the feel of your watch.  We have a host of straps in the W.O.E. shop, but don’t let us limit your options.   In the strap game, you generally get what you pay for. Like most things in life.  Stay away from Amazon and pay a few extra dollars for something of quality.  Most of the major watch content outlets also sell straps and are a good one-stop-shop.  Buying a strap from a smaller business is a great way to show your support and rep that brand/community.  Here are some of the different straps you should consider: 2 Piece Leather: These should be handmade in the USA or Europe, nothing mass produced. There are some great craftsmen out there making one off and small batch straps like our Jedburgh and Leather and Canvas DNC Strap.  A good leather strap can work on mostly any watch. Affordable Nylon:  You can buy these anywhere and should be somewhere in the $20-40 price range.  Our Five Eye is on the higher end of this but in return you get quality. The better ones are well-made but cheap enough that you can use and abuse them and throw them out like a pair of good socks.  A simple nylon strap is a great way to support a group/person that you’re interested in. (James Rupley) High-End Fabric Strap:  In my opinion, Zulu Alpha is the best quality fabric strap on the market. The Quantum Watch Strap from TAD has great hardware and Tudor has some great fabric straps (see Hodinkee video). None of these are cheap but you get what you pay for. Single piece leather is tricky, most are thick and I do not like to use bent spring bars on my watches. These do fit some of my pieces with a wider gap between the spring bar and I wear them. I am a big fan of both Soturi and Zanes. Rubber: I have owned a few from Everest and overall have been happy with them. There are plenty of options on the market here and quality generally coincides with price. Elastic MN Straps: I have a MN strap from NDC straps which I like and have heard great things about Erika’s Originals.  A great way to change up your watch. A new strap can completely change the feel of your watch.  Most watches are 20 mm or 22 mm so if you buy a handful of straps you can rotate them between your watches. (Photo Credit: @navs.watch) General Advice & Tips: As you look to expand your collection, here are some general tips that we use as a north star.  Remember, none of these are hard and fast rules: Buy what makes you happy; no one else cares what you are wearing and 99.9% of people will not notice the watch you have on your wrist. (This one is cliché but it’s entirely true.) Buy the watch you can afford. You won't be happy if you spend more than you can afford.  “Buyer’s remorse” is real and can undermine the sense of satisfaction from wearing the watch.  DO NOT FINANCE YOUR WATCH. Don't buy for investment. Your watch may appreciate in value, but buy with the expectation you will wear it until you die (and a loved one will wear it after you die). Values are generally trending downward in the watch world anyway. That’s not what they’re made for, and treating a watch like a financial instrument takes away something from the passion. When in doubt, stick with a known brand: Seiko, Sinn, Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Tudor, JLC, IWC, Bremont, Patek, etc.  There are some great micro brands out there (like Tornek-Rayville, Sangin Instruments, Elliot Brown etc), but also a lot with smoke and mirrors, especially in the “tactical” space. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Any worthwhile watch company wasn’t either.  When you do decide to go into the micro-brand space, do your homework. Buy the seller and build a relationship with that person. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.  A lot of people have had great experiences with Ebay and other online forums, but there is something about building a relationship with the actual person selling the watch that makes it special. Plus, it’s very easy to get burned on Ebay. It’s less easy to get burned by someone you know and trust. Take your time. Do your research. Even if you have the money to buy the watch you want right away, spend time learning about the different variations and history of the reference or brand. This will likely change your outlook and make you appreciate the watch you end up with even more. (James Rupley) As a closing remark, don't feel like you need a "luxury watch," a ~$500 watch can be just as meaningful as a $5,000 watch. Remember, those Speedmasters that went to the moon and the 1675 GMT-Master examples that our pilot heroes wore were all value buys back in the day. They weren’t luxury products in that period.  As we have said many times, the man makes the watch, not the other way around. Vintage Watches: Lastly, if you are just starting out, we recommend staying away from vintage watches.  While there are some great deals out there and it is a lot of fun, it is not for the uninitiated.  There are plenty of fakes at every level and it is easy to get ripped off if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing.  Additionally, old watches come with old problems, this can be exciting once you have a handful of watches in your collection, but sending your sole watch off for service for 3 months doesn’t make for a good time.    If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   Read Next: Blackwater Breitling - The Story

One of the coolest parts of the W.O.E. platform is exposing people to the world of watches in an unpretentious and engaging manner.  Getting into watches can be intimidating and it is difficult to know where to start. Regardless of one's socioeconomic status and access to disposable income, we recommend starting with a watch under-$1,000.  Just because you can afford a Rolex, doesn't mean you should start there.   In the “Ask W.O.E. Anything” Dispatch, I put forward my belief that a Seiko is a good place to start, and maybe end with watch collecting.  That said, there are some great watches under $1,000 and there is no right answer to this question.  In order to capture a broad collection of suitable watches, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch and NatSec communities to provide their choice for the “Best Watch Under $1,000.” This is an incredibly diverse list of individuals from former Special Operations warriors, Intelligence Officers, and divers, to some of the leading experts in the watch community.  The one thing they all have in common is a shared appreciation for watches.  While all of them have objectively more “expensive” watches in their collection, they have a genuine appreciation for these more affordable timepieces. CWC Royal Navy Jason Heaton, author, freelance writer, and podcast host, The Grey NA TO and author of Depth Charge. I’ve long contended that the CWC Royal Navy dive watch is the watch a “real” James Bond would wear, at least the 21st-century iteration of MI6’s famous “blunt instrument” spy. Issued since the 1980s to British Navy divers and Special Forces operators, it is a tough, classic, unassuming watch that can truly go anywhere and manages the balance between looking good and not drawing attention to itself. The quartz version (Approx. $930), with its 300 meters of water resistance, long-life battery, and fixed strap bars means its owner can go forth in the world on adventures, clandestine or otherwise, without having to worry about his watch. And that’s the highest of compliments, in my mind.  Seiko Prospex SNJ025 aka The 'Arnie' Chris Craighead, former British Special Air Service (SAS), @christian_craighead The Seiko Prospex ($525) has a unique and rich history. Not only was it worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in movies such as Commando, Predator, and Raw Deal, it was also one of the first watches issued to an East Coast-based Naval Special Warfare (NSW) unit. The watch is extremely tough and practical. The dual, analog and digital face makes it a versatile watch for whatever purpose you choose to wear it. Tornek-Rayville TR-660  Brock Stevens, Active Duty US Navy Diver, EDC enthusiast, and photographer behind @deepsea_edc.  The Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) is a no-frills, straight-to-the-point tool watch. As an active duty US Navy Diver who believes in wearing watches for their intended purposes, I love that about it. With a robust movement, 200 meters of water resistance, a legible dial, and lightning bright lume, I count on this watch to get the job done during my working dives. I have beat the living hell out of this thing, banging it around on just about every type of warship the US Navy has to offer, and it just keeps on ticking. Any watch can sit in the collection and look pretty, but if you’re after ultimate function and genuine military heritage at a reasonable price point, look no further. Rowing Blazers X Seiko 5 Sports Watch (Limited Edition 2023)  Eric Wind, leading expert in vintage watches. Eric founded and owns Wind Vintage  The Seiko 5 Sports line offers some of the best accessible mechanical watches on the market. Having had a bunch over the last few years, they are solid, reliable, and attractive - a winning combination. I really like the model we have used for our latest Rowing Blazers x Seiko watches ($495) as it is 40mm, but wears slightly smaller and looks great on men or women. They are hard to argue with for under $500 and are great for travel, the pool, and whatever else you might need. Sangin Instruments “Neptune” James Rupley, Co-founder of small arms reference publishing industry leaders, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing. Regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. I subscribe fully to the “buy cheap, buy twice” maxim, so buying an inexpensive watch can actually be a riskier proposition than buying a much more expensive watch. Is there a $200 watch that you can be happy with forever? It’s a fascinating question, and you can easily blow a day on YouTube watching others try to answer it.  As someone who spends so much time photographing collectibles, aesthetic merit is always going to be a dominant factor in just about anything I focus on. I think the Sangin Instruments “Neptune” ($859) is an excellent example of a watch that skillfully blends functional elements with an attractive design. I love that the Neptune comes with both a metal bracelet and a rubber strap – options that offer me plenty of variety for use in any situation. Timex Marlin Automatic Marty Skovlund, Jr., Former Army guy, avid coffee drinker, aspiring sketchy dude, current Editor-in-chief of Task & Purpose I love a classy watch that is comfortable on the wrist but doesn’t draw attention or accusations of elitism. Timex is the opposite of elite in the watch world, and they make a helluva wrist piece that you aren’t afraid of wearing as a daily driver. And frankly, I wore a digital Timex Ironman on many deployments in a past life, so a non-digital, automatic Timex with a day and date complication feels like a natural evolution. I love mine, and it’s one of the most affordable automatics on the market. The Timex Marlin Automatic ($269) rocks a 40mm stainless steel case, a beautiful deep navy blue dial, and a classic domed acrylic crystal — it looks like a compromise between an ultra-rugged sport watch and a black tie dress watch. This isn’t a go-everywhere, do-anything piece with only 50m of water resistance and a crystal that’s easy to scuff; but it’s perfect for long days at the office or hitting all of Hemingway’s old drinking spots in Madrid in a single day. Pro tip: My Timex Marlin came with a leather strap too orange for my taste. I swapped it out for a W.O.E. Jedburgh Leather strap, and that dark brown leather complements the navy dial perfectly. Seiko Turtle Dave Hall, SOCS (SEAL), USN, Ret. Retired US Navy SEAL. Watch and firearms enthusiast. @davehall1911 The Seiko “Turtle” ($300-600), a nickname for the 6309-7040, could easily be described as the “AK-47 of the watch world”. It’s simple, rugged, affordable, reliable, and has stood the test of time with little necessary improvement. The watch is at home underwater, in freefall, or running an obstacle course. It’s accurate enough to keep track of your total time of dive, calculate M700 time fuse burns, or keep track of your dune run times. You don’t have to take it off to enter a SCIF (Sensitive Compartmented Information Facility) and it is as equally at home on a direct-action mission as it is at the hotel bar in Zangaro (“Dogs of War” cameo reference). The modern Turtle, known as the Prospex SRPE93, has all the same clean lines and durability from the original 6309 and keeps better time than ever. Tornek-Rayville Paradive  J.R. Seeger, retired Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) officer and author of seven MIKE4 espionage novels and three Steampunk Raj novels set in WWI.  T-R is a US-based watch company that builds field and dive watches that have the DNA of 1960s and 1970s MIL-SPEC watches. The Paradive ( approx. $900) is a modern take on the vintage Benrus Type 1. It is a bead-blasted stainless steel, purpose-built automatic watch with excellent luminous markings and comes with either a standard dive bezel or a 12-hour bezel providing a means to track two time zones. The watch has a depth rating of 200m. It is the most robust dive watch I own. T-R is a small company and there is a wait time while they make your watch. It is well worth the wait. Marathon Navigator Steel SSNAV-D James Stacey, Lead Editor with Hodinkee.com and co-host of The Grey NA TO podcast. If we’re talking about a great tool watch under a grand and you really want to use it, you can’t do much better than the new steel version of Marathon’s long-standing (and long-serving) Navigator ($800). Trading the common and gov’t issue-ready composite case for one in steel, this newly announced Marathon is still 41mm wide, 11mm thick, and sports a field-ready 12-hour bezel. Add to that a high-accuracy quartz movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and tritium tube illumination and you've got a worker. It’s a modernized take on a classic design that traces its lineage across some of the toughest locales that our world has (and had) to offer and it remains a watch that was primarily designed to be offered in contract to governments and special outfits all over the globe and the new steel version even has its own Nato Stock Number. If you want a go anywhere, do anything watch that remains subtle but tough enough for any sort of work, the Navigator is a natural in steel - just add your fav color NA TO. I recommend grey. Sangin Dark Professional Asha Wagner, HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and watch and gear enthusiast. @wildlander6 My pick for a sub $1,000 watch is my Sangin Dark Professional ($658). This has been my go-to work, play and travel watch for the past few years. The reasons why I keep opting for this watch are it’s durable, versatile, and comfortable. I am a full-time Fire Captain and a HazMat Team Manager for a National Disaster Response Task Force and am also pretty active with a bunch of outdoorsy hobbies in my off time. I am rough on equipment and an impact-prone individual. I need a watch that can keep up with me and that I don’t have to worry about whether I’m scuba diving or breaching and forcing entry into a building. The Dark Pro has taken everything I’ve thrown at it and come up smiling. As far as versatility it is a 300-meter dive watch with a 24-hour GMT hand, drilled lug holes for easy strap changes, a fully indexed, unidirectional count-up bezel with bright long lasting lume, and a color-matched date wheel at 4:30. The date wheel is there when I need it, and all but disappears when I don’t. The crazy bright lume is great in inclement situations, plus lume just downright makes me happy. The case comes in at 43.5 mm, but with a 20mm lug width 12 mm thickness, and 42 mm bezel, it wears sleeker than its specs might initially suggest. It’s a watch that doesn’t draw a lot of undue attention depending on where I’m traveling, but at the same time makes me smile every time I look at it.  Mine is a co-branded watch with Triple Aught Design and comes in at $795.   Halios Seaforth IV Justin Couture, “The Wristorian” Freelance blogger fascinated by the historical context surrounding vintage tool watches. @the_wristorian Being a vintage guy at heart, I am ever on the lookout for a watch that combines old-school design language with modern capability. Enter the Halios Seaforth IV ($775), the newest iteration of what could now be called a horological cult classic. With Goldilocks dimensions and a clear focus on legibility, the Seaforth IV effortlessly exudes the sort of skindiver vibes that will make you want to inexplicably take up spearfishing. Factor in the brilliant Bahama Yellow dial and the titanium case option and you’ve got the apex predator of modern microbrand divers. Pro-tip for the WOE crowd, for added utilitarianism the Seaforth can be made into a destro configuration by request. Seiko SKX Nick Ferrell, Founder DC Vintage Watches Vintage Seiko is rich in history, and none more than the venerable Seiko SKX, worn on the wrist of many military and intelligence officers I've worked with - both previously employed with the government, and now as customers - the world over.  The SKX line has long been a "gateway drug" for watch collectors just starting down the slippery slope towards obsession, as it was for me.  One of my first Seiko's, I wore the 1999 Seiko SKX007 (on the right) throughout a two-year tour in the White House Situation Room, and it served me well.  And this is a two-for-one - a savvy hunter can find both the SKX and the steel-grey dial 1960s Seiko 7625-8233 dress watch, absurdly large for the era, in good nick for under $1k.  A fantastic two-watch collection, perhaps? Scurfa Diver One D1-500 Benjamin Lowry, Writer, US Coast Guard veteran, former commercial diver, and curator of @submersiblewrist.  With my background in commercial diving, I was always going to be a fan of Scurfa Watches, a brand owned and operated by Paul Scurfield, a North Sea commercial saturation diver. Beyond our occupational connection, the watches themselves represent class-leading value for the busy diving tool watch category, pairing impressive specifications with the legitimacy that comes with having been developed and tested in the owner’s salty workplace. The Diver One D1-500 is the brand’s centerpiece, offering 500 meters of water resistance, excellent lume, an automatic helium escape valve (which, in this very rare case, makes sense), a domed sapphire crystal, and a Swiss quartz caliber from Ronda, all housed within a surprisingly restrained 40mm wide by 47.7mm long case.  While I’m nowhere near as cool as Paul, I have worn the Diver One extensively in recreational and commercial diving scenarios, including at least one near-death experience. Priced around $200, which is insane, the Scurfa Diver One is a great way to live the #useyourtools ethos we subscribe to around here without breaking the bank.  Tornek-Rayville TR-660 Owner of Soturi, - Marine veteran-owned handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage.   When I came across the Tornek-Rayville TR-660 ($950) it instantly hooked me. As an avid enthusiast of military watches, the T-R’s slab-sided case, matte finish, and lighter weight are everything you want in a field/dive watch. Simple, yet significant. Add-on T-R’s intriguing history with U.S. Special Operations (the TR-900 model) and you have yourself a winning combination that’s hard to compete with. Bonus - its integrated lug/pin holes make for easy swapping of your favorite watch straps.  “Arabic Seiko'' W.O.E., former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer The 42mm “Arabic Seiko'' ref SNKP21J1  (aka the Seik-W.O.E. aka the W.O.E. hype watch) is popular in the W.O.E. community.  In part this is because it is a cool and unique piece at an affordable price point and received consistent coverage on W.O.E., but just as importantly because of the meaning it has for our community.  Many of us have spent a considerable amount of time in the Middle East over the past 20+ years.  I have a strong affinity for the rich culture and language of the Arab world and this piece is a constant reminder of that connection and that period in my life.  A lot of veterans and NatSec identify with this connection. ($130-$200) If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.   READ NEXT: W.O.E. Holiday Gift Guide