What Should I Buy For My First Watch?

Seiko, Hamilton, Timex, & More - Our Top Picks For Starter Watches Of Espionage

By Benjamin Lowry

One of the most common questions we are asked is: “What should I buy for my first watch?” For new watch buyers, we have several resources including Advice For Buying A Watch, The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air, and community submissions for some of the Best Watches Under $5,000. While they are all helpful, we have yet to provide a comprehensive list of some of our top picks for budding watch enthusiasts looking to make their first real purchase within the context of our community.

Whether you’re a veteran, work in NatSec, or are just a regular civilian looking for a solid watch aligned with our Use Your Tools ethos, this list provides a wide range of options, all of which could theoretically serve as a “one-watch” collection for the right individual. We have nothing against Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) but will concentrate on analog watches in this list because of the mechanical intrigue and heritage inherent in many analog designs.

To be clear, while there are clear patterns and certain brands more aligned with W.O.E. than others, being brand agnostic is at the core of who we are. None of what you will see here is sponsored. Price is also highly subjective. Some enter the hobby looking for the most affordable option while others put years of savings and research into their first serious watch. With that in mind, we’ll discuss a wide variety of price points and work in ascending price order.

Casio Duro - $50

A phenomenon among the enthusiast community, the Casio Duro is perhaps the least expensive analog dive style we would recommend. Coming in at around $50, the Duro is a legend for a reason, with 200 meters of water resistance, a Japanese quartz caliber, a screw-down crown, and surprisingly decent bezel action. As you’d expect given the price, it isn’t perfect. The luminescent material is terrible, and the rubber strap is among the worst we’ve tried, but with standard 22mm lugs, you could pick up this watch and a W.O.E. Five Eye strap and still come out under $100.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPG35 - $295

While there isn’t much to be said about Seiko we haven’t already discussed in our love letter to the Arabic Seiko SNKP21, suffice it to say the Japanese brand is among the best options for anyone looking to get into watches while also being backed by impressive military history stretching back to MACV-SOG in Vietnam. The SRPG35 is Seiko 5’s modern field watch providing 100 meters of water resistance, surprisingly strong luminescent material, and a versatile 39.4mm case diameter. There are a variety of strap, bracelet, and dial color options available as well. Of note, you can normally find these on Amazon for under $200.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPD55 - $325

It would be easy to fill this list with Seiko models, but for brevity’s sake, we’ll stick to two (ok, maybe three) models. Descending from the SKX007 and 009, the SRPD collection is a modernized take on the SKX now falling under the Seiko 5 banner. Gone is the non-hacking and non-hand-winding 7S26 caliber in favor of a more modern 4R36 offering both convenient functions. The styling from the SKX has more or less been carried forward, but it’s important to note these models offer only 100 meters of water resistance and do not have a screw-down crown.

Timex Expedition GMT Titanium - $549

We have fond memories of wearing a Timex Ironman in operational scenarios, and it has been remarkable to see what the brand has been up to with mechanical watchmaking in recent years. The new Expedition GMT Titanium is a great example, utilizing an automatic GMT caliber from Miyota within a 41mm titanium case, unthinkable specifications for a watch in this price range just a few years ago. Sure, some design inspiration is coming from watches like the Tudor Black Bay Pro, but we don’t see that as a bad thing for this kind of money.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical - $595

One of the better deals in Swiss watchmaking, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is another legendary point of entry for mechanical watches, coming in at just under $600 while providing a Swiss-made caliber with 80 hours of power reserve. The design is pulled all but directly from Hamilton’s dense archive of military-issued watches while being available in two case sizes and many dial colors and case finishes. As a couple of minor drawbacks, this is a hand-winding watch, meaning you will have to do the work every 80 hours or so, and the watch is only rated for 50 meters of water resistance.

CWC SBS Diver Issue - $750

Though the intrigue associated with mechanical watchmaking is a thing, there is absolutely nothing wrong with quartz watches and we would argue they are a must in any collection. One of our favorites is the CWC SBS Diver Issue, a watch that is still issued to certain specialized units with the British Ministry of Defense. The blacked-out SBS was supposedly a special request from the Special Boat Service looking for a more low-profile version of the standard CWC Royal Navy Diver that famously replaced the Rolex Mil-Sub around 1980. With fixed lug bars, the SBS is limited to pull-through straps, but luckily we know where you can find some excellent options.

Tornek-Rayville Paradive G3 - $806

If you are new to watches, we generally recommend staying away from microbrands. There are some great ones out there and we have profiled a few (Sangin, Elliot Brown, etc… ), but sifting through the marketing BS is a challenge, and it’s easy to get lost in the sauce. Tornek-Rayville, an extension of Mk II, one of the OG microbrands dating back to 2002, is an exception to the rule. The Paradive is Tornek-Rayville’s subtly updated take on the Benrus Type I, a legendary and now extremely rare watch produced only for SpecOps personnel in the 1970s. They can be hard to get, but if you’re looking for a vintage look without sacrificing modern specifications or finishing standards, Tornek-Rayville is an excellent brand to learn more about.

Seiko Proxpex SPB237 - $1,300

Typically associated with watches priced at around $500 or less within the Seiko 5 Sports collection, it’s important to remember Seiko has a lot to offer even above $1,000, as is the case with the SPB237. A modern ISO 6425 dive watch inspired by the 6105 released in 1970 and worn by Martin Sheen’s character, Captain Willard, in Apocalypse Now, the modern “Willard” offers comfortable wearing dimensions, a sculpted case, and an upgraded caliber providing 70 hours of power reserve. There are a few variants within the modern Willard range, but the SPB237 feels tailor-made for our community with a nylon pull-through strap, faux-aged luminescent material that still glows brightly, and a textured grey dial. We’re going to cut ourselves off at three Seikos, but it’s worth noting we could have easily made an entire list within the confines of the Japanese brand.

Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990

Despite having what some have called a polarizing design format, the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have earned a passionate following while also boasting a legitimate history of military service, having been issued to the pioneering divers of SEALAB III, a US Navy undersea habitat experiment in the late 1960s. Complete with a no-decompression time limits table on the unidirectional rotating bezel and the signature beads-of-rice style bracelet, the modern Doxa Sub 300T provides no less than 1200 meters of water resistance as well as a helium escape valve. Chances are you don’t need either, but if you appreciate serious dive watches with heritage to boot, Doxa is a niche pick with a lot of appeal.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Date - $2,200

Often overshadowed by bigger brands backed by major conglomerates, Oris has quietly carved out a niche since its inception in Switzerland in 1904. Today, Oris produces a range of capable tool watches including the popular Aquis collection of divers, but our pick for this video is the Big Crown ProPilot Big Date for its versatility and ability to blend into military settings. While a pilot’s watch in name and concept, the ProPilot still serves up 100 meters of water resistance, meaning despite its aviation-focused format, this is a potential one-watch collection for someone who appreciates Swiss independent watchmaking at a reasonable price. Of note, Oris watches featured heavily in Amazon’s adaptation of Jack Carr’s Terminal List series.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - $2,390

Though it once lived squarely in microbrand territory, British watchmaker Christopher Ward has outgrown that classification by managing a dedicated production facility in Switzerland. Released in 2024, the C60 Trident Lumière is yet another great example of the value you can get from straying from more established brands. Housed within a 41mm grade two titanium case, the Lumière’s claim to fame is its dial, which utilizes indices crafted from three-dimensional blocks of Globolight XP, a proprietary luminescent material. As you’d expect, the watch has excellent nighttime legibility that is complemented by the 300 meters of water resistance and solid finishing for the price point. We’re aware of several military “unit watches” produced by Christopher Ward, and we’d be interested to see an organization lean into this model as a base for a future project.

Sinn U50 - $2,980

Another brand close to both enthusiasts’ and practitioners’ hearts is Sinn, a German watchmaker dating back to 1961 and founded by a flight instructor. Along with the pilot’s watches you’d expect from a brand with such heritage, Sinn is also a leader when it comes to diving, with the 41mm U50 being our pick for a versatile modern diver packed with impressive specs for the price point. Measuring just over 11mm tall even with 500 meters of water resistance, the U50 is Sinn’s most wearable diver for most while being powered by a Swiss-made caliber on the inside. There are also “Tegimented” versions available that have been subjected to Sinn’s proprietary case hardening for anyone living up to the Use Your Tools ethos. Another watch from the same model family is currently standard-issue for the KSM or Kommando Spezialkräfte Marine, Germany’s answer to the US Navy SEALs, so the military cred is also there.

Grand Seiko SBGN027 - $3,400

Grand Seiko isn’t a brand that we often discuss on W.O.E. as it has yet to be adopted by our community on a mass scale, but that’s unfortunate when you consider the impressive work being done by Japan’s premier luxury watchmaker. The quartz GMT caliber utilized within the SBGN027 is accurate to ± 10 seconds per year and housed within a watch offering a screw-down crown and 200 meters of water resistance. Given the importance of Zulu Time in operational scenarios, a capable GMT timepiece is an excellent tool. If you appreciate Japanese watches but want something that looks and feels as good or better than many of its Swiss competitors, Grand Seiko is a brand that should be high on your list.

Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,875

If there is a watch in Tudor’s arsenal that feels most like a modern version of the Snowflake Submariners of decades past, it would be the Pelagos 39. Where the FXD, a popular watch in the Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) community, is the hardcore military-inspired diver, the P39 serves as a versatile modern dive watch better suited for everyday wear. We acknowledge that at almost $5k, we’re getting into a challenging range for many first-time watch buyers, but this is one luxury watch that could easily serve as a one-and-done watch collection that will work in almost any scenario including military or intelligence operations while being way more than tough enough for the average everyday use. For the price, the good people at Tudor are kind enough to throw in an excellent rubber strap.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 - $6,500

While the films don’t accurately portray the vast majority of intelligence operations, the influence of James Bond on real-world intelligence professionals is significant. Countless real spies have looked to the Omega Seamaster for its onscreen connection to James Bond, and we would be remiss not to include a Seamaster Diver 300 in this list.

“Accidentally” leaked on Daniel Craig’s wrist at the Olympic Games in Paris in 2024, there is also a new non-date version that feels closer to the “Unit Watch” version of the Seamaster exclusively available to select SpecOps units including the US Navy SEALs and the Danish Frogman Corps. No matter how hardcore of a “desk diver” you may be, we would expect a watch that works well enough for Navy SEALs can probably fulfill your needs.

Rolex Submariner Date - $10,400

Modern Rolex provides some challenges for the average consumer, but it’s difficult to deny the legend that is the Submariner, a watch used by countless special operators, military divers, and intelligence officers. Does it make sense to drop ten grand on a first watch? As is so often the case in espionage, the answer is: “It depends.” For someone with the means, we’re not sure there’s a better quality luxury dive watch backed by more history and heritage. Is it a bit like going out and buying a brand new Ineos Grenadier for your first car? Sure, but I think a lot of us would if we could. No matter what the haters may say, if you can pick up a new Sub at or near retail price (while keeping your dignity intact), the Submariner is and will always be a no-brainer.

What About Vintage Watches?

There are many excellent vintage watches to also consider in your watch search, but it is important to “know before you go”. Originality is a constant question, as is the quality of any previous servicing or restoration work. With all of that in mind, if you’re newer to the game, I’d stay away from vintage unless you are working with a reputable dealer (buy the seller), have the means to potentially get screwed over, and are willing to do the research. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Don’t Forget To Accessorize

One potential drawback of your fledgling watch collection is that it will be, at first, only one watch deep. As you dive deeper into the watch nerd world, you will come to learn that even one watch can provide a bunch of different looks and use cases simply by changing straps. For a guide to the complete W.O.E. Strap Collection, click HERE.

What are some of your top picks for a great first watch to start a collection with?

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