Top Military Watch Action Shots - The Wristorian

The link between watches, the military, and espionage is nothing new. Long before the advent of inexpensive digital timekeeping, there was an era where warfighters utilized mechanical watches for their intended purpose because they were simply the best tools for the job. At W.O.E., we focus on honoring and celebrating the heritage of our community. To fully understand that heritage, you have to look back to the original end-users, the OGs that cemented the lore behind some of watchmaking’s biggest names.

When it comes to scrubbing the archives for photographs showcasing important military watches, our friend Justin Couture AKA The Wristorian is among the best. A lot of us (myself included) aren’t going to spend hours combing through the US National Archives hoping for a great shot of a Seiko 6309, but that’s exactly what Justin does, and it pays off. In this Dispatch, we asked Justin to share some of his favorite watches “in action” on the wrists of servicemembers from military organizations the world over.

It’s important to remember that long before Omega paid big bucks for K-Pop superstars to don Aqua Terras, hard men dived, dismantled bombs, and waged war with real watches on their wrists. Today, with Justin’s help, we celebrate the legends who were living the Use Your Tools ethos long before it was cool.

Legendary Timepieces Photographed On The Wrists Of Military & SpecOps

By Justin Couture

Hamilton MIL-W-4637B & Breitling Chronomat - US Army

It just wouldn’t be a proper Watches of Espionage Dispatch without a bit of sketchy Breitling content to kick it off. The Airborne Ranger, from the 2nd Battalion, 75th Infantry pictured here is sporting two timepieces along with an M-161A rifle. Photographed in 1981 near “Rosy Roads” Naval Station in Puerto Rico, this shot was captured during “Ocean Venture”, a naval exercise that involved 120,000 service personnel, 250 ships, and about 1,000 or more planes from 14 different countries.

The smaller of the two watches appears to be a standard-issue Hamilton MIL-W-4637B. The other watch was trickier to identify but looks to be a quartz Breitling Chronomat reference 9108. The giveaways are the size, the case shape on the crown side, the bracelet, and the distinctive bezel. It’s a rare model to spot anywhere, let alone in this environment. The reason this operator is wearing two watches on one wrist is anyone’s guess. It could be for redundancy—the old “two is one and one is none” mentality. It would also have allowed him to track two different time zones without a GMT function.

Benrus Type I – US Navy

Here is a photograph of not one, but two Benrus Type Is in action in 1981. This famously sterile-dialed tool watch was never available for civilian purchase. It epitomizes the concept of “everything you need and nothing you don’t”. One of the most legendary military-only tool watch designs ever made, the Benrus Type I and later Type II were produced in response to a US Government specification during the Vietnam War and exclusively issued to special operations forces with a few select pieces also allegedly being provided to CIA Officers with completely sterilized casebacks.

The four operators pictured here are being transported by helicopter to the ammunition ship USS Mount Hood (AE-29). There they will assist with search and rescue operations for a beached frigate called the RPS Datu Kalantiaw (PS-76). The frigate was a casualty of Typhoon Clara and ultimately 19 individuals were rescued from the wreckage, while 52 bodies were recovered.

Rolex GMT Master 1675 – US Air Force

The Rolex GMT Master is a watch that shows up often in archival military photos. I see them time and time again—a testament to both their status and durability. This image, taken in 1978, shows Astronaut Judy Resnick inflating a solar water still (a device that makes saltwater safe to drink) during 20-man life raft training on Biscayne Bay near Homestead Air Force Base (HAFB). This exercise was conducted by the Air Training Command Sea Survival School.

The man on the right is seen wearing a Ref. 1675 Rolex GMT-Master. The hallmark bi-colored bezel can be made out just under his sleeve. Resnick lost her life in the Challenger disaster on January 28, 1986, but left an indelible mark in the history books as a pioneering female aviator and astronaut.

Rolex Submariner 6536 - Royal New Zealand Air Force

“Vanguard 18” was a joint military exercise that occurred in 1971 to promote effective cooperation between various armed forces. This image shows an RNZAF Deployment Commander greeting a Lieutenant Colonel from the Singaporean Air Force. The former, seen on the right, is wearing what appears to be a Rolex Submariner reference 6536.

Interestingly, this was a transitional reference for Rolex and was only produced for a brief window in the mid-1950s. Given the date that this photo was taken in Tengah, Singapore the Submariner would have been around 15 years old at the time. Safe to say that, if we could zoom in even closer, the watch had probably earned a fair number of battle scars by this time.

Rolex Explorer 5500 – US Navy

Onboard the USS John Hancock (DD-981) in 1982, a Data Systems Technician re-enlists somewhere in the Mediterranean Sea. The Hancock was a Spruance-class destroyer commissioned in the late 1970s that operated out of Charleston, South Carolina until moving to Florida in 1987. The officers in the photo are part of the US Navy 6th Fleet whose purpose was to “...conduct the full range of Maritime Operations and Theater Security Cooperation missions, in concert with coalition, joint, interagency, and other parties, in order to advance security and stability in Europe and Africa.”

The watch on the wrist of the officer on the right appears to be a Rolex Explorer. More specifically, given the size and the single line of text above the 6 o’clock numeral, it is likely a reference 5500 Explorer. This is a smaller and less common model in the range but built to the same standards of water resistance and robustness. In other words, a no-fluff tool fit for the job.

Tudor Submariner 94110 “Snowflake” – US Air Force

If you follow W.O.E. closely, you’re no stranger to the close historical bonds, which continue to this day, between Tudor and the military. This image, taken in 1985, shows a member of the US Air Force combat control team using a theodolite to track a weather balloon during the joint Honduran/US Exercise CABANAS '85. On his wrist is a Tudor Submariner Snowflake ref. 94110.

What makes this particular shot so interesting is that he seems to have something tucked under the watch. While this may not be the most common place to store an object of importance, generally speaking, there are multiple examples I have seen in military photos. A good illustration of this is a wedding band kept on a nylon pull-through strap. As for what is underneath this Tudor, I suspect it could be a cap for the equipment. It’s tough to say but a unique storage solution, nevertheless. I would love to hear insight from the community in the comments.

Seiko 6105 “Willard” – Royal New Zealand Air Force

I’ve written on multiple occasions about the prevalence of Seiko divers throughout history: military, adventure, exploration, diving, etc. If you haven’t read Ben’s take on the ubiquity of the Seiko “turtle” among military personnel, check it out and you’ll see what I am talking about. Often accompanying these Seiko dive watches is a pronounced mustache. Turns out, a solid ‘stache is the perfect complement to a Seiko diver.

As evidenced by this photo from 1983, there is an even smaller intersection where the ‘stache and the Seiko 6105 are accompanied by a bagpipe, and I think that’s worth celebrating. The gentleman in the photo, a member of the Royal New Zealand Air Force, is wearing the classic Seiko 6105, alternatively called the “Captain Willard” (a reference to its appearance in the film Apocalypse Now). Bonus points for the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk in the background.

Seiko 7548 – US Army

Now back to a few watches from the land of the rising sun. This image from October of 1984 shows US Air Force personnel catching giant freshwater prawns in the Philippines during a jungle survival training exercise. These prawns, known locally as ulang, can grow up to a foot long, making them a great source of protein in a survival scenario. On the wrist of the gentleman on the right is a red and blue “Pepsi” bezel Seiko 7548.

This watch represented Seiko’s first foray into quartz-powered dive watches in 1978 and quickly grew a following among the armed forces. In fact, it became a real classic, not just among military personnel, but throughout virtually all active pursuits of the 1980’s. I’ve seen the same model on mountaineers, military generals, marine veterinarians, and everything in between, which speaks volumes to the capability and performance of the model.

Seiko 6139-7010 – Japan Air Self-Defense Force

Since I began collecting, I’ve been a major subscriber to the Cole Penning ton ethos to Always Read The Caseback. This image shows Japanese personnel assigned to the Rescue Coordination Center at the start of Operation Cope Angel, held off the coast of Okinawa, Japan in 1980. The man on the right is wearing a Seiko 6139-7010 chronograph. The 6139 line consisted of a multitude of different models, but the Arabic numerals of the aforementioned model make it ultra-legible and appropriate for military use.

Though not many examples are known, this model was issued to the Japan Air Self-Defense Force (JASDF) and can be identified as an issued model by the cherry blossom and wings on the caseback. There is also a similar model with an anchor and wings given to the Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF). A decade ago this watch would have been entirely unknown as an issued piece, making this a great illustration of the knowledge that has yet to be gained among the military and watch enthusiast communities.

Citizen Aqualand & Seiko H558 “Arnie” – Royal Australian Navy EOD and US Navy

This 1991 image shows a member of a U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) team examining a device with members of a Royal Australian Navy EOD unit. At the time, they were working together to clear mines from Kuwait’s harbors following Operation Desert Storm. In terms of tool watches per image, this photo scores highly.

If you look closely, you can spot both a Citizen Aqualand and a Seiko H558 “Arnie”—two classics, especially in the early 1990s when ana-digi dive watches found their footing. The former was known to be issued watch to Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers throughout the 80s and into the 90s. The latter, though not known to be issued, was favored by military personnel for its unique, shrouded design and water resistance. Both of these watches were the apex predators of analog/digital performance at the time and offered real functionality for military work.

Doxa Professional SUB300T – Korean Military

I don’t know about you—but if someone asked me what watch I would expect from Republic of Korea Special Forces operators in 1985—I probably would have said Seiko. Maybe Citizen? I would not have guessed Doxa. That’s the fun thing about these combing through the archives, though, you can unearth unexpected gems.

Here is a shot of Special Reconnaissance ROK Marine members offloading from a C-130E Hercules aircraft at Yoju Airfield during Exercise TEAM SPIRIT in 1985 and on one of their wrists, you can see a Doxa SUB 300T. I initially thought it was a yellow-dialed “Divingstar”—but after stumbling across an example of a Korean military-issued Doxa Professional, that seems more likely. The SUB 300/300T was known to be favored by famed divers like Jacques Cousteau and has been issued by many international militaries, mostly for naval pursuits.

CWC Chronograph – Royal Air Force

This image, taken in 1980, displays a Royal Air Force pilot (left) as he helps a U.S. Air Force pilot don his flight suit during an RAF visit to the Spangdahlem Airbase in Germany. On his wrist is a CWC chronograph. These CWC models featured broad hands and clear markings, making them ideal for pilots. The dials bore the “broad arrow” symbol, a traditional indication used to designate British military property.

I’ve long admired CWCs current and past models along with their extensive history of issuing models to various military branches. To me, seeing a watch like this—void of any marketing angle and being used exactly as intended—that’s what it’s all about.

More Than Just Old Photos

Sure, we’ve all heard of influencers, but I would argue you’re better off taking your watch-wearing advice from people stretching their watches beyond a wrist shot at the closest vegan cafe. If you want to understand the history and significance of tool watches, in particular, you must look to the original practitioners: the divers, pilots, special operators, and intelligence professionals, and see what worked for them.

Chances are, even in a world dominated by the Apple Watch, it’ll work for you too.

About The Author: Justin Couture is a Kansas City-based freelance writer and vintage watch enthusiast. In 2020, he founded @The_Wristorian, an Instagram page dedicated to providing historical context around military and civilian tool watches. Horological pursuits aside, Justin is a proud father, husband, and paramedic of 16 years. 

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