French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap
How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...
Read MoreHow Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership. A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s. The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format. Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read MoreAnnouncement: W.O.E. YouTube Channel -Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling
We are excited to announce the establishment of the Watches of Espionage YouTube channel with our first video “Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t...
Read MoreWe are excited to announce the establishment of the Watches of Espionage YouTube channel with our first video “Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make the Rules”. At Watches of Espionage, we are dedicated to exploring the intersection of military, intelligence, national security, and the world of horology. Whether we like it or not, many people can’t or won’t read in 2024, meaning video is an important platform for creating independent content without significant investments and subjective input from brands or other impartial players. There are now hundreds of watch-related creators on YouTube doing a great job influencing the masses with perfect hair, tailored hipster jackets, and ironic glasses, but we are here to do something different. The stories we tell in the W.O.E. Dispatch are produced for, by, and about our community. Our videos will follow suit, taking some of our favorite topics and presenting them in a novel and engaging way for the space. We’ve been interested in video for some time but were methodical to ensure we got it (mostly) right. Our first video delves into one of our favorite subjects, exploring the significant overlap between sketchy dudes and Breitling watches. While it sounds douchey, video-savvy friends of ours have informed us it’s important for y’all to like, subscribe, make comments, and hit the bell icon to receive notifications when we release new videos, which we hope to do every two weeks or so. We’ve been blown away by your support since starting W.O.E. and truly hope you enjoy our new YouTube channel. If you have any ideas for future videos or general comments, we are confident you’ll express yourself in the comments. If you're not into video, don't worry, our weekly Dispatch content will continue to be at the core of what we do. Thank you for the support, we are 100% community-funded and could not have done this without you. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreThe Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex
Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....
Read MoreFake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex? It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches: A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives. Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake. The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements. Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD
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The Other Watches of James Bond
Despite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links...
Read MoreDespite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links between 007, Rolex, and Omega are well-established and contribute to the lore surrounding two of history’s most important tool watches, namely the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster. But wherever you fall on the Rolex vs. Omega debate for 007, the charismatic secret agent’s watch history is much more diverse, including several brands and watches you may have never imagined. We’ve theorized our picks for a more realistic James Bond in the past (read HERE), but what brands and watches have been worn by Bond onscreen that didn’t come from the hallowed halls of Omega or the Crown? To explore the lesser-known watches of James Bond, we invited Caleb Daniels, a longtime friend of the site and subject matter expert on all things James Bond, for an in-depth look at Bond’s other watches. For those interested in Bond’s considerable history with firearms, Caleb has a new book coming out with our friends at Headstamp Publishing called LICENSED TROUBLESHOOTER: The Guns of James Bond. Beyond Omega & Rolex, The Watches Worn by 007 Over The Years By Caleb Daniels In two previous Dispatches, the discussion around the watches of James Bond has focused on the two most prevalent brands of the franchise, Rolex and Omega. There are, however, many other timepieces that have been included in the cinematic world of James Bond, and this Dispatch will highlight these watches from varying manufacturers and their stories. Some, you may know. Others appear only in brief sequences and are often missed but deserve equal celebration. Gruen Precision 510 (Or Maybe Not) - Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, Diamonds are Forever (Watch Photo Credit: Second Hand Horology) In 1962’s Dr. No, when James Bond utters the famous line introducing himself for the first time, in a dim casino, while lighting a cigarette nonchalantly, it’s not a Rolex on his wrist. Rather, it is a common watch for the era, an understated and relatively small gold dress watch. Legend has it that this was a personal watch of Connery’s. Further, this watch would appear time and again throughout his tenure as 007, including in From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, and Diamonds Are Forever. If speculation is to be believed (and it ought not to be) the watch in question is a Gruen Precision 510, a diminutive 34mm, 17-jewel watch with a sub-seconds register. Or at least that’s the story on most style blogs and mainstream outlets, including Esquire and GQ. Unfortunately, this model selection is entirely speculative, as at no time on screen is the watch visible enough to confirm any definitive identifiable details. In 2013, Dell Deaton “confirmed” the model as accurate on James Bond Watches Blog, leading to absurdly overpriced listings of a relatively simple timepiece. A Gruen Precision 510 similar to the one Bond could have worn in several films. Ironically, Connery’s watch could be an Omega based on the case construction and lug shape. If that’s the case, Omega by sheer happenstance was the first ever on-screen Bond watch, a monumentally big deal if true. Despite the uncertainty around the piece, I appreciate the lower-priced Gruen examples—as little as $30—as a quiet Bond nod and adore the finished details. The questionable origin story notwithstanding, the brand has been deeply ingrained in the Bond community, and I enjoy seeing it on the wrist. Tragically, we have yet to identify this watch, but if the Connery estate ever confirms the model, expect to see yet another classic and inexpensive timepiece explode in value. Breitling Top Time - Thunderball “Here we have a Geiger counter, useful and unobstructive, the sweep hand takes the radioactive count, it's waterproof of course” - Q to Bond in Thunderball. (Watch Photo Credit: Christie’s Auction House) Sketchy dudes wear Breitling. W.O.E. doesn’t make the rules but just keeps getting this one completely right. In one of my all-time favorite films, Thunderball, 007 dons a Breitling Top Time encapsulated in an oversized cushion case as he hunts for missing nuclear weapons stolen by SPECTRE. His Breitling, in a wild turn of events, is equally as sketchy as the man who wears it, as its Q Branch modifications include the addition of a Geiger counter to aid Bond in his mission. The oversized case was designed by the Valley Tool Company, as commissioned by EON’s art department. Only one watch was ever manufactured, making this an incredibly rare piece. The actual watch is infamous for going missing for decades, only to be found at a flea market, purchased for roughly $33, and in 2013 it fetched $103,875 at Christie’s. The Top Time dial lends itself to the Q Branch aesthetic, with the two silver sub-registers that could just as easily actually be a Geiger counter. Bond wears this watch most notably with his blue striped camp shirt and cream linen trousers while visiting Emilio Largo’s oceanside home, Palmyra. It’s in this sequence that Connery casually shoots a 12-gauge Browning A5 from the hip while trap-shooting over the water, and without looking, dusts the clay pigeon. This scene is made even cooler by the very real recoil of the shotgun—it’s likely that Connery actually fired a live 12 gauge round over the ocean from the hip. Sketchy watch, Sketchy dude, epic film. Bond - “Seems terribly difficult…” [shoots without looking] “Why no, it isn’t, is it?” Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 - Live and Let Die With Roger Moore, a new Bond was brought onto the scene, and unlike with Lazenby, a conscious effort was made by EON Productions to market Moore as his own version of the character. Live and Let Die’s marketing portrays Bond with several Smith & Wesson revolvers, most notably the chrome-plated .44 Magnum Model 29. Moore’s Bond also doesn’t smoke cigarettes anymore, he prefers cigars, and bourbon to his martinis. While Moore does wear a Rolex throughout his films, his Bond also wore a variety of digital timepieces, hallmarks of the quartz revolution and a new age of timekeeping. Live and Let Die opens with Bond being issued a new Rolex, with a buzz-saw bezel and a magnetic personality, but in putting it on, he first removes his Hamilton Pulsar P2, highlighting the timeliness of the Bond films. Pulsar released the P2 in 1973, the same year as the film, and it was the first successfully marketed and manufactured digital watch. The Pulsar’s portrayal in the film is brief but serves as a clear example of EON’s concern for putting daylight between Connery and Lazenby, the Bonds of old, and Moore, a 007 for a new generation. Bond’s digital Pulsar had glowing red digital indices that appeared only when the user tapped a button on the side of the case. Hamilton recently brought this model back, with the most notable difference being their name on the case instead of Pulsar. The Seikos of Roger Moore Moore’s affinity for new, cutting-edge watches did not end in Live and Let Die. Throughout the 12 years and (00)7 Bond movies, there are (00)7 nonstandard watches worn, including the aforementioned Pulsar and six Seikos. The Seiko watches selected work well inside the Moore era, which leaned on the campier tones more often than not. Like so many Bond watches, the Seikos get gratuitous screen time as gadgets on many occasions, beginning with the Seiko 0764 LC of The Spy Who Loved Me. Seiko 0764 LC - The Spy Who Loved Me In the opening sequence of The Spy Who Loved Me, James Bond is rather cozy in front of a fire, only to be interrupted by his timepiece that prints out the message “007 TO REPORT.” Bond quickly dons his canary yellow ski suit, departs the cabin, battles KGB agents on the slopes, and opens the title song sequence by skiing off a cliff face and opening a rather overt Union Jack parachute. Unlike his Pulsar, Bond wears this watch throughout the entire film. Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar - Moonraker Promotional shot for Moonraker focusing on the Seiko. It is an interesting selection that feels a bit visually incongruent with the classic country aesthetics of Moore’s sartorial selection in Moonraker. The full-face digital display is in harsh contrast to his brown donegal tweed suit and the chateau atmosphere of the Drax estate. For all the deliberation we have had in previous Dispatches on product placement, the forceful inclusion of this watch in the place of the previously worn Rolex 5513 is an error I cannot defend. Once again, this watch is a gadget used by Bond. In this case, it conceals an explosive that Bond and Ms. Goodnight use to escape the Moonraker launch platform. Billboards for this watch are visible in the film as well, highlighting the clear partnership between EON and Seiko. Seiko H357 Dual Display - For Your Eyes Only Screen capture from For Your Eyes Only. The Dual Display seen in For Your Eyes Only is an interesting design, with a digital screen above a more traditional analog dial. The watch is rarely seen on-screen but does get a shining moment at the end of the film. Bond receives a message on his watch in red letters, scrolling across the screen reading “COME IN 007.” The film ends with Bond dropping the watch next to a parrot, who speaks to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (an impersonator) in Bond’s place, using the watch as a communication device. Is there anything more Moore than that? Seiko 7549-7009 Professional Quartz Diver (Golden Tuna) - For Your Eyes Only (Watch Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) The aforementioned Dual Display is one of two Seikos worn by Bond in For Your Eyes Only. Bond also wears his Golden Tuna while searching the St. George wreck for the missing ATAC (Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator) device. The Golden Tuna is worn against the canary yellow dive suit, outside the sleeve, and on full display. The black titanium nitride-coated case and black rubber strap are in stark contrast to his brightly colored suit, but the gold bezel and accents are complementary to his louder dive getup. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Tuna is rather famous outside of Bond as it was the first dive watch ever produced with a quartz movement. The Tuna is also notable for its titanium case and is still highly regarded. Seiko TV Watch DXA-001 - Octopussy In the 1983 film Octopussy, Bond introduces us to the TV Watch during the standard issue Q Branch scene. 007 walks up to the watch and mounted camera combination and asks Q about it while messing with the camera, notably zooming in on the chest of a nearby MI6 employee, checking his work on the watch’s display, quipping, “Perfect image, Q.” Aside from that tongue-in-cheek, signature Moore moment, the TV Watch is used in the climax of the film. As Bond and Q descend on Kamal Khan’s palace, they use cameras mounted below their hot air balloon to view the ongoing battle and to locate Octopussy. Bond watches the video feed on his timepiece. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Seiko TV Watch features a 1.2” LCD in a standard Seiko case. All UHF and VHF channels can be viewed with the aid of an external receiver which affixes to the top of the watch case. The watch function is found in the thin banner above the TV screen, similar in style to the previously shown Dual Display. Seiko G757 Sports 100 - Octopussy (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) This watch’s unique display design makes for a perfect Q Branch gadget. In an earlier Q Branch scene, it is implied that this model is the standard issue 00 operative watch, as Q notes that, “the homing device is compatible with the standard issue radio finder in your watch.” Bond uses this tracking device and the mini-map on his watch face to locate the Fabergé egg. Bond Lifestyle notes that this watch is the most visible Seiko in any of the films, and gets a healthy amount of close-ups throughout the film. A View to a Kill - A Trio Of Quiet Seikos Moore’s last outing as James Bond features three Seiko models, each with relatively brief moments, and as such they’ll be all addressed together here, for the sake of completionism. Seiko 7A28 7020 Quartz Chronograph Bond wears this white-dialed chronograph after evading capture in a ski chase and climbing aboard his iceberg-shaped submarine. The watch gets its moment in the sun as Bond flirts with yet another coworker. Seiko 6923-8080 Quartz SPD094 (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The gold dial dress quartz is only shown briefly but is worn by Bond during his time at Zorin’s home. The colorway and design are clearly Seiko’s budget take on the iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. Stills show that at one point Moore accidentally wore (or perhaps wore due to prop unavailability) his personal Datejust in place of the Seiko. Seiko “Arnie” H558-5000 Another Seiko dive watch is worn twice on screen by 007, first during the ski escape sequence (which causes a continuity error for the submarine scene) and later during the Eiffel Tower chase with May Day. In addition, the so-called Seiko “Arnie” also features on the wrist of a nefarious KGB agent in the film, providing a better screen capture than we were able to get for Bond himself. Product Placement & Seiko Beginning in The Spy Who Loved Me, the credits of Bond films note “Seiko Watches” as a partner. Unfortunately little is known about the behind-the-scenes reasons for this partnership, but the commercial nature of it is very clear, as shown by the advertisements of the period. Bond advertising and watches have a history spanning back to the Connery era and Rolex, and of course throughout recent years and the Omega partnership. TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver Ref. 980.031- The Living Daylights The last non-Omega or Rolex worn on screen by 007 was the seldom-seen TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver sported by Timothy Dalton in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and its appearance was once again tragically brief. The pre-titles show the 00 division parachuting into Gibraltar for a training exercise. Kitted out in 1980s SAS-style black tactical attire from head to toe, Bond also wears the black PVD cased watch on the matching bracelet. The only pop of color is the dial, which is fully lumed, leading to a soft yellow-green coloration. TAG Heuer released an updated variant of the Night Diver in 2021, with several prominent design modifications, making the new watch hardly reminiscent of the original. Bond’s watches, like his sidearms, are an iconic part of the character. Despite the miscellaneous Q Branch gadgets that crop up in many films, Bond often depends primarily on his wits, watch, and PPK to save the world. To that end, the timepieces of 007 will always be a cornerstone of the character, and if and when Bond 26 ever appears, I look forward to seeing what is on the wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bond: A Case for Omega
Read MoreThe CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces
How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look...
Read MoreHow The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right) pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.
Read MoreFrench SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap
How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...
Read MoreHow Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership. A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s. The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format. Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read MoreW.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military
Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...
Read MoreAffordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments. CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009. This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreThe Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”...
Read MoreIs an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists” based largely on its associations with Usama bin Laden who was often photographed wearing the attainable Japanese digital watch before his impromptu meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. However, recent photographs of leaders of prominent terrorist organizations may indicate a changing tide in the arena of tool watches of terror. The watches are produced by a brand called Al-Fajr, which is based in Saudi Arabia and known for its collection of what it calls “Islamic” watches and clocks that have functions specific to Islam including prayer time alarms and the ability to determine Qibla direction. We have written extensively about politicians and world leaders using timepieces as subtle communicative objects, and terrorist leaders are no different. The price is modest, ranging from sub-$100 to $300, marking an affordable option for the supposed pious individuals, many of which have access to extensive sums of money. Siraj Haqqani, seen here wearing an Al-Fajr watch, is the Taliban’s Interior Minister in Afghanistan’s post-2021 government. While the associations are likely unintended, the brand’s roots and Islamic functions have made the brand the new watch of choice for several leaders of prominent terror organizations including but not limited to Hamas, the Islamic State, and the Taliban. *To be very clear, this article is not a condemnation of Al-Fajr or Islam, just an observation of the tools worn by those at the tip of the (terrorism) spear. Also, coverage does not equal endorsement, each of these groups is designated as a Foreign Terrorist Organization (FTO) by the US Department of State. Hamas Assassinated Hamas leader Ismail Haniyeh wearing an intriguing digital Al-Fajr Islamic watch. The impetus for this article stems from the events of July 31st, 2024, when the political leader of Hamas, Ismail Haniyeh, was assassinated in the Iranian capital of Tehran. In recent photographs preceding his assassination, which was reportedly carried out by Israeli assets who placed an explosive device in a guesthouse in which he was supposed to stay, Haniyeh wore an Al-Fajr Islamic watch, marking one of our first interactions with the brand. As with all politicians or world leaders, it is safe to assume this Islam-specific watch was also worn to convey a message, one that is not exclusive to the departed Hamas leader. Read about watches worn in the Israel-Palestine conflict HERE. ISIS ISIS Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi wearing an Al-Fajr watch in 2014. Former Islamic State Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi made one of his few public appearances in 2014 when he delivered a sermon at the Great Mosque of al-Nuri in Mosul, Iraq. Press reporting was quick to note the steel watch on his right hand, speculating that it was potentially an expensive Rolex or Omega “Seafarer.” (Of note, there is no Omega “Seafarer”.) This would have been notable in itself; however, it appears the watch is another example of an Al-Fajr Islamic watch being worn by a prominent terrorist. Further, he was also wearing the watch on his right hand, which some believe is in line with Islamic tradition. ISIS maintained a sophisticated PR and media wing that could rival any nation-state, so it stands to reason that significant thought was put into al-Baghdadi’s watch before this recording of one of his few public appearances, but of course, this is simply speculation. Taliban Mullah Yaqoob, the Taliban’s Defense Minster, photographed in 2024 wearing a general’s military uniform and a gold-tone Al-Fajr Islamic watch. Anointed the Taliban’s Defense Minister in the wake of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, Mullah Yaqoob was recently photographed wearing a military uniform complete with the rank of general and another, slightly different watch from Al-Fajr with a gold-tone case. As was the case for Ismail Haniyeh, choosing a watch produced by a brand based in the Middle East with Islam-centric functionality serves two-fold, first acting as a legitimate tool for a practitioner of Islam and second as an element of propaganda intended to showcase the ingenuity and technical manufacturing capabilities of the broader Islamic world. When A Watch Is More Than Just A Watch As we’ve often discussed with political leaders and other globally impactful individuals, a watch often serves as far more than its core timekeeping functionality may suggest, instead acting as a symbol of power, ingenuity, and/or unity within certain communities. For leaders of terrorist organizations to wear watches designed with Islam in mind especially when in the public eye demonstrates an awareness of the importance of media, propaganda, and influence, once again demonstrating that it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces *Featured Image Credit: Claire Harbage/NPR
Read MoreThe Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know
Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one...
Read MoreGoing In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreBest Watches Under $5,000
Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...
Read MoreAsking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months. If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreUS Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt
A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...
Read MoreA Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light. Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once. This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreThe Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex
Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....
Read MoreFake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex? It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches: A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives. Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake. The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements. Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD
Read MoreThe Other Watches of James Bond
Despite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links...
Read MoreDespite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links between 007, Rolex, and Omega are well-established and contribute to the lore surrounding two of history’s most important tool watches, namely the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster. But wherever you fall on the Rolex vs. Omega debate for 007, the charismatic secret agent’s watch history is much more diverse, including several brands and watches you may have never imagined. We’ve theorized our picks for a more realistic James Bond in the past (read HERE), but what brands and watches have been worn by Bond onscreen that didn’t come from the hallowed halls of Omega or the Crown? To explore the lesser-known watches of James Bond, we invited Caleb Daniels, a longtime friend of the site and subject matter expert on all things James Bond, for an in-depth look at Bond’s other watches. For those interested in Bond’s considerable history with firearms, Caleb has a new book coming out with our friends at Headstamp Publishing called LICENSED TROUBLESHOOTER: The Guns of James Bond. Beyond Omega & Rolex, The Watches Worn by 007 Over The Years By Caleb Daniels In two previous Dispatches, the discussion around the watches of James Bond has focused on the two most prevalent brands of the franchise, Rolex and Omega. There are, however, many other timepieces that have been included in the cinematic world of James Bond, and this Dispatch will highlight these watches from varying manufacturers and their stories. Some, you may know. Others appear only in brief sequences and are often missed but deserve equal celebration. Gruen Precision 510 (Or Maybe Not) - Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, Diamonds are Forever (Watch Photo Credit: Second Hand Horology) In 1962’s Dr. No, when James Bond utters the famous line introducing himself for the first time, in a dim casino, while lighting a cigarette nonchalantly, it’s not a Rolex on his wrist. Rather, it is a common watch for the era, an understated and relatively small gold dress watch. Legend has it that this was a personal watch of Connery’s. Further, this watch would appear time and again throughout his tenure as 007, including in From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, and Diamonds Are Forever. If speculation is to be believed (and it ought not to be) the watch in question is a Gruen Precision 510, a diminutive 34mm, 17-jewel watch with a sub-seconds register. Or at least that’s the story on most style blogs and mainstream outlets, including Esquire and GQ. Unfortunately, this model selection is entirely speculative, as at no time on screen is the watch visible enough to confirm any definitive identifiable details. In 2013, Dell Deaton “confirmed” the model as accurate on James Bond Watches Blog, leading to absurdly overpriced listings of a relatively simple timepiece. A Gruen Precision 510 similar to the one Bond could have worn in several films. Ironically, Connery’s watch could be an Omega based on the case construction and lug shape. If that’s the case, Omega by sheer happenstance was the first ever on-screen Bond watch, a monumentally big deal if true. Despite the uncertainty around the piece, I appreciate the lower-priced Gruen examples—as little as $30—as a quiet Bond nod and adore the finished details. The questionable origin story notwithstanding, the brand has been deeply ingrained in the Bond community, and I enjoy seeing it on the wrist. Tragically, we have yet to identify this watch, but if the Connery estate ever confirms the model, expect to see yet another classic and inexpensive timepiece explode in value. Breitling Top Time - Thunderball “Here we have a Geiger counter, useful and unobstructive, the sweep hand takes the radioactive count, it's waterproof of course” - Q to Bond in Thunderball. (Watch Photo Credit: Christie’s Auction House) Sketchy dudes wear Breitling. W.O.E. doesn’t make the rules but just keeps getting this one completely right. In one of my all-time favorite films, Thunderball, 007 dons a Breitling Top Time encapsulated in an oversized cushion case as he hunts for missing nuclear weapons stolen by SPECTRE. His Breitling, in a wild turn of events, is equally as sketchy as the man who wears it, as its Q Branch modifications include the addition of a Geiger counter to aid Bond in his mission. The oversized case was designed by the Valley Tool Company, as commissioned by EON’s art department. Only one watch was ever manufactured, making this an incredibly rare piece. The actual watch is infamous for going missing for decades, only to be found at a flea market, purchased for roughly $33, and in 2013 it fetched $103,875 at Christie’s. The Top Time dial lends itself to the Q Branch aesthetic, with the two silver sub-registers that could just as easily actually be a Geiger counter. Bond wears this watch most notably with his blue striped camp shirt and cream linen trousers while visiting Emilio Largo’s oceanside home, Palmyra. It’s in this sequence that Connery casually shoots a 12-gauge Browning A5 from the hip while trap-shooting over the water, and without looking, dusts the clay pigeon. This scene is made even cooler by the very real recoil of the shotgun—it’s likely that Connery actually fired a live 12 gauge round over the ocean from the hip. Sketchy watch, Sketchy dude, epic film. Bond - “Seems terribly difficult…” [shoots without looking] “Why no, it isn’t, is it?” Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 - Live and Let Die With Roger Moore, a new Bond was brought onto the scene, and unlike with Lazenby, a conscious effort was made by EON Productions to market Moore as his own version of the character. Live and Let Die’s marketing portrays Bond with several Smith & Wesson revolvers, most notably the chrome-plated .44 Magnum Model 29. Moore’s Bond also doesn’t smoke cigarettes anymore, he prefers cigars, and bourbon to his martinis. While Moore does wear a Rolex throughout his films, his Bond also wore a variety of digital timepieces, hallmarks of the quartz revolution and a new age of timekeeping. Live and Let Die opens with Bond being issued a new Rolex, with a buzz-saw bezel and a magnetic personality, but in putting it on, he first removes his Hamilton Pulsar P2, highlighting the timeliness of the Bond films. Pulsar released the P2 in 1973, the same year as the film, and it was the first successfully marketed and manufactured digital watch. The Pulsar’s portrayal in the film is brief but serves as a clear example of EON’s concern for putting daylight between Connery and Lazenby, the Bonds of old, and Moore, a 007 for a new generation. Bond’s digital Pulsar had glowing red digital indices that appeared only when the user tapped a button on the side of the case. Hamilton recently brought this model back, with the most notable difference being their name on the case instead of Pulsar. The Seikos of Roger Moore Moore’s affinity for new, cutting-edge watches did not end in Live and Let Die. Throughout the 12 years and (00)7 Bond movies, there are (00)7 nonstandard watches worn, including the aforementioned Pulsar and six Seikos. The Seiko watches selected work well inside the Moore era, which leaned on the campier tones more often than not. Like so many Bond watches, the Seikos get gratuitous screen time as gadgets on many occasions, beginning with the Seiko 0764 LC of The Spy Who Loved Me. Seiko 0764 LC - The Spy Who Loved Me In the opening sequence of The Spy Who Loved Me, James Bond is rather cozy in front of a fire, only to be interrupted by his timepiece that prints out the message “007 TO REPORT.” Bond quickly dons his canary yellow ski suit, departs the cabin, battles KGB agents on the slopes, and opens the title song sequence by skiing off a cliff face and opening a rather overt Union Jack parachute. Unlike his Pulsar, Bond wears this watch throughout the entire film. Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar - Moonraker Promotional shot for Moonraker focusing on the Seiko. It is an interesting selection that feels a bit visually incongruent with the classic country aesthetics of Moore’s sartorial selection in Moonraker. The full-face digital display is in harsh contrast to his brown donegal tweed suit and the chateau atmosphere of the Drax estate. For all the deliberation we have had in previous Dispatches on product placement, the forceful inclusion of this watch in the place of the previously worn Rolex 5513 is an error I cannot defend. Once again, this watch is a gadget used by Bond. In this case, it conceals an explosive that Bond and Ms. Goodnight use to escape the Moonraker launch platform. Billboards for this watch are visible in the film as well, highlighting the clear partnership between EON and Seiko. Seiko H357 Dual Display - For Your Eyes Only Screen capture from For Your Eyes Only. The Dual Display seen in For Your Eyes Only is an interesting design, with a digital screen above a more traditional analog dial. The watch is rarely seen on-screen but does get a shining moment at the end of the film. Bond receives a message on his watch in red letters, scrolling across the screen reading “COME IN 007.” The film ends with Bond dropping the watch next to a parrot, who speaks to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (an impersonator) in Bond’s place, using the watch as a communication device. Is there anything more Moore than that? Seiko 7549-7009 Professional Quartz Diver (Golden Tuna) - For Your Eyes Only (Watch Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) The aforementioned Dual Display is one of two Seikos worn by Bond in For Your Eyes Only. Bond also wears his Golden Tuna while searching the St. George wreck for the missing ATAC (Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator) device. The Golden Tuna is worn against the canary yellow dive suit, outside the sleeve, and on full display. The black titanium nitride-coated case and black rubber strap are in stark contrast to his brightly colored suit, but the gold bezel and accents are complementary to his louder dive getup. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Tuna is rather famous outside of Bond as it was the first dive watch ever produced with a quartz movement. The Tuna is also notable for its titanium case and is still highly regarded. Seiko TV Watch DXA-001 - Octopussy In the 1983 film Octopussy, Bond introduces us to the TV Watch during the standard issue Q Branch scene. 007 walks up to the watch and mounted camera combination and asks Q about it while messing with the camera, notably zooming in on the chest of a nearby MI6 employee, checking his work on the watch’s display, quipping, “Perfect image, Q.” Aside from that tongue-in-cheek, signature Moore moment, the TV Watch is used in the climax of the film. As Bond and Q descend on Kamal Khan’s palace, they use cameras mounted below their hot air balloon to view the ongoing battle and to locate Octopussy. Bond watches the video feed on his timepiece. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Seiko TV Watch features a 1.2” LCD in a standard Seiko case. All UHF and VHF channels can be viewed with the aid of an external receiver which affixes to the top of the watch case. The watch function is found in the thin banner above the TV screen, similar in style to the previously shown Dual Display. Seiko G757 Sports 100 - Octopussy (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) This watch’s unique display design makes for a perfect Q Branch gadget. In an earlier Q Branch scene, it is implied that this model is the standard issue 00 operative watch, as Q notes that, “the homing device is compatible with the standard issue radio finder in your watch.” Bond uses this tracking device and the mini-map on his watch face to locate the Fabergé egg. Bond Lifestyle notes that this watch is the most visible Seiko in any of the films, and gets a healthy amount of close-ups throughout the film. A View to a Kill - A Trio Of Quiet Seikos Moore’s last outing as James Bond features three Seiko models, each with relatively brief moments, and as such they’ll be all addressed together here, for the sake of completionism. Seiko 7A28 7020 Quartz Chronograph Bond wears this white-dialed chronograph after evading capture in a ski chase and climbing aboard his iceberg-shaped submarine. The watch gets its moment in the sun as Bond flirts with yet another coworker. Seiko 6923-8080 Quartz SPD094 (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The gold dial dress quartz is only shown briefly but is worn by Bond during his time at Zorin’s home. The colorway and design are clearly Seiko’s budget take on the iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. Stills show that at one point Moore accidentally wore (or perhaps wore due to prop unavailability) his personal Datejust in place of the Seiko. Seiko “Arnie” H558-5000 Another Seiko dive watch is worn twice on screen by 007, first during the ski escape sequence (which causes a continuity error for the submarine scene) and later during the Eiffel Tower chase with May Day. In addition, the so-called Seiko “Arnie” also features on the wrist of a nefarious KGB agent in the film, providing a better screen capture than we were able to get for Bond himself. Product Placement & Seiko Beginning in The Spy Who Loved Me, the credits of Bond films note “Seiko Watches” as a partner. Unfortunately little is known about the behind-the-scenes reasons for this partnership, but the commercial nature of it is very clear, as shown by the advertisements of the period. Bond advertising and watches have a history spanning back to the Connery era and Rolex, and of course throughout recent years and the Omega partnership. TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver Ref. 980.031- The Living Daylights The last non-Omega or Rolex worn on screen by 007 was the seldom-seen TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver sported by Timothy Dalton in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and its appearance was once again tragically brief. The pre-titles show the 00 division parachuting into Gibraltar for a training exercise. Kitted out in 1980s SAS-style black tactical attire from head to toe, Bond also wears the black PVD cased watch on the matching bracelet. The only pop of color is the dial, which is fully lumed, leading to a soft yellow-green coloration. TAG Heuer released an updated variant of the Night Diver in 2021, with several prominent design modifications, making the new watch hardly reminiscent of the original. Bond’s watches, like his sidearms, are an iconic part of the character. Despite the miscellaneous Q Branch gadgets that crop up in many films, Bond often depends primarily on his wits, watch, and PPK to save the world. To that end, the timepieces of 007 will always be a cornerstone of the character, and if and when Bond 26 ever appears, I look forward to seeing what is on the wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bond: A Case for Omega
Read MoreThe CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces
How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look...
Read MoreHow The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right) pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.
Read MoreFrench SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap
How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...
Read MoreHow Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership. A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s. The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format. Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read MoreW.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military
Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...
Read MoreAffordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments. CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009. This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreThe Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”...
Read MoreIs an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists” based largely on its associations with Usama bin Laden who was often photographed wearing the attainable Japanese digital watch before his impromptu meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. However, recent photographs of leaders of prominent terrorist organizations may indicate a changing tide in the arena of tool watches of terror. The watches are produced by a brand called Al-Fajr, which is based in Saudi Arabia and known for its collection of what it calls “Islamic” watches and clocks that have functions specific to Islam including prayer time alarms and the ability to determine Qibla direction. We have written extensively about politicians and world leaders using timepieces as subtle communicative objects, and terrorist leaders are no different. The price is modest, ranging from sub-$100 to $300, marking an affordable option for the supposed pious individuals, many of which have access to extensive sums of money. Siraj Haqqani, seen here wearing an Al-Fajr watch, is the Taliban’s Interior Minister in Afghanistan’s post-2021 government. While the associations are likely unintended, the brand’s roots and Islamic functions have made the brand the new watch of choice for several leaders of prominent terror organizations including but not limited to Hamas, the Islamic State, and the Taliban. *To be very clear, this article is not a condemnation of Al-Fajr or Islam, just an observation of the tools worn by those at the tip of the (terrorism) spear. Also, coverage does not equal endorsement, each of these groups is designated as a Foreign Terrorist Organization (FTO) by the US Department of State. Hamas Assassinated Hamas leader Ismail Haniyeh wearing an intriguing digital Al-Fajr Islamic watch. The impetus for this article stems from the events of July 31st, 2024, when the political leader of Hamas, Ismail Haniyeh, was assassinated in the Iranian capital of Tehran. In recent photographs preceding his assassination, which was reportedly carried out by Israeli assets who placed an explosive device in a guesthouse in which he was supposed to stay, Haniyeh wore an Al-Fajr Islamic watch, marking one of our first interactions with the brand. As with all politicians or world leaders, it is safe to assume this Islam-specific watch was also worn to convey a message, one that is not exclusive to the departed Hamas leader. Read about watches worn in the Israel-Palestine conflict HERE. ISIS ISIS Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi wearing an Al-Fajr watch in 2014. Former Islamic State Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi made one of his few public appearances in 2014 when he delivered a sermon at the Great Mosque of al-Nuri in Mosul, Iraq. Press reporting was quick to note the steel watch on his right hand, speculating that it was potentially an expensive Rolex or Omega “Seafarer.” (Of note, there is no Omega “Seafarer”.) This would have been notable in itself; however, it appears the watch is another example of an Al-Fajr Islamic watch being worn by a prominent terrorist. Further, he was also wearing the watch on his right hand, which some believe is in line with Islamic tradition. ISIS maintained a sophisticated PR and media wing that could rival any nation-state, so it stands to reason that significant thought was put into al-Baghdadi’s watch before this recording of one of his few public appearances, but of course, this is simply speculation. Taliban Mullah Yaqoob, the Taliban’s Defense Minster, photographed in 2024 wearing a general’s military uniform and a gold-tone Al-Fajr Islamic watch. Anointed the Taliban’s Defense Minister in the wake of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, Mullah Yaqoob was recently photographed wearing a military uniform complete with the rank of general and another, slightly different watch from Al-Fajr with a gold-tone case. As was the case for Ismail Haniyeh, choosing a watch produced by a brand based in the Middle East with Islam-centric functionality serves two-fold, first acting as a legitimate tool for a practitioner of Islam and second as an element of propaganda intended to showcase the ingenuity and technical manufacturing capabilities of the broader Islamic world. When A Watch Is More Than Just A Watch As we’ve often discussed with political leaders and other globally impactful individuals, a watch often serves as far more than its core timekeeping functionality may suggest, instead acting as a symbol of power, ingenuity, and/or unity within certain communities. For leaders of terrorist organizations to wear watches designed with Islam in mind especially when in the public eye demonstrates an awareness of the importance of media, propaganda, and influence, once again demonstrating that it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces *Featured Image Credit: Claire Harbage/NPR
Read MoreThe Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know
Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one...
Read MoreGoing In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreBest Watches Under $5,000
Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...
Read MoreAsking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months. If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreUS Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt
A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...
Read MoreA Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light. Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once. This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreThe Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex
Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....
Read MoreFake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex? It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches: A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives. Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake. The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements. Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD
Read MoreSpec Ops
The Wrist Compass In SpecOps - A Brief History
From Waltham To Suunto & Now W.O.E., A Wrist Compass Is Essential Gear For Countless Special Operators While the tools of warfare have developed rapidly...
Read MoreFrom Waltham To Suunto & Now W.O.E., A Wrist Compass Is Essential Gear For Countless Special Operators While the tools of warfare have developed rapidly over the past sixty years, some gear has remained virtually unchanged, timeless tools that are as effective in 2024 as they were in 1964. Among those essential items are the wristwatch and the wrist compass, both utilized extensively as tools by Intelligence and SpecOps personnel throughout the past six decades. A US Navy SEAL in Vietnam wears a Rolex or Tudor Submariner with a wrist compass. (Photo Credit: Herb Ruth Collection) We often discuss the importance of timekeeping in operational scenarios, but navigation is another equally mission-critical element. The archetypal image of the Vietnam-Era SEAL or a MACV-SOG operator almost always includes not only a watch but also a wrist compass, worn on the same strap. Often overshadowed by the watches they accompany, wrist compasses are useful tools favored by divers and special operators, backed by an intriguing history that stretches from the Vietnam War until today. A prototype of the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass worn with a Tudor Pelagos FXD. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) In this Dispatch, we’ll explore the use of wrist compasses in operational scenarios both then and now, as well as how that rich heritage informed the development process for the W.O.E. Submersible Compass. Wrist Compasses & Special Operations - A Brief History The US Navy Scouts and Raiders, a predecessor to the US Navy SEALS, were formed during World War II. While the concept dates back to ancient China, the compass as we know it today started seeing widespread use as a tool by mariners navigating at sea as early as the 1100s. Military organizations began issuing smaller, more portable compasses en masse to ground-based troops as early as the First World War, a conflict that also saw the widespread adoption of wrist-worn as opposed to pocket watches. Modern SpecOps finds its roots in the Second World War. During this period, the nascent Navy Scouts and Raiders from the United States and British Special Air Service (SAS) and Long Range Desert Group (LRDG) commandos utilized lensatic compasses with built-in sighting mechanisms for wayfinding in challenging terrain. Ralph Bagnold of the LRDG designed the Bagnold Sun Compass during the Second World War. (Photo Credit: National Army Museum) While accurate, these compasses were typically too large for use on a watch strap and lacked water resistance, factors that would become increasingly crucial as maritime special operations grew to include combat diving and other amphibious modalities. By the early 1950s, dive watches including the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner had already become essential parts of any military diving load out. Like watches, the compass would also need to adapt to fit the needs of an evolving military. An astronaut and aquanaut on all three US Navy SEALAB experiments, Malcolm Scott Carpenter famously wore a Rolex Submariner with a wrist compass in diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Underwater compasses had been used by divers for decades by that time but were cumbersome for clandestine maritime operators after leaving the water. In the 1960s, numerous scuba diving brands including Aqualung, Dacor, and Scubapro produced simple oil-filled compasses designed to slide over a watch strap. These diving-specific compasses famously appear in photographs alongside watches like the Rolex Submariner and the Doxa Sub 300/300T during the US Navy’s SEALAB experiments. US Navy SEAL Steve Jewitt, nicknamed “The Walrus”, wearing an issued Tudor 7928 alongside a Waltham wrist compass. (Photo Credit: WalrusTactical) Far from the undersea world, the US Military’s answer was a straightforward wrist compass produced in many cases by Waltham and intended for use alongside a navigator’s issued A-11 or similar wristwatch. Given the sizing norms of watches during the period when many tool watches measured 32 millimeters, the compass came equipped with 16mm canvas and later nylon straps. Designed for use by downed pilots, these compasses, which were initially marked “Waltham” and later “W.C.C.” for Waltham Clock Company, would not see widespread use until the Vietnam War when SEALs brought them into action alongside their issued Tudor 7928s. A Vietnam-Era Seiko and Waltham wrist compasses, all of which were utilized by MACV-SOG. (Photo Credit: W.O.E.) The SEALs were not alone in their adoption of the mil-spec Waltham. Army Special Forces operators assigned to MACV-SOG also selected the brass wrist compass for use alongside their issued Seiko watches. When we interviewed John Stryker Meyer, a legend in the SF community, he said that some of his fellow Recon Company soldiers added a W.C.C. compass to the strap, but he preferred the traditional compass around his neck. For special operations forces, the need for a more portable compass stemmed from the level of autonomy and individual responsibility entrusted to each operator. These Waltham compasses, which are still relatively available through surplus or militaria channels, are becoming increasingly collectible due to their SpecOps associations. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Cammenga wrist compass alongside a Seiko 6309. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) After Vietnam, many continued to wear their Waltham compasses into the Cold War, with SEALs including our friend Dave Hall sometimes opting for older W.C.C. compasses over more modern options out of reverence for his SEAL mentors. Issued escape and evasion kits still included the Waltham in many cases, but some frogmen of the 1980s opted for diving-specific compasses from brands like Silva and Tekna. The Cammenga J582 (left) and Suunto M-9 (right) are among the most popular wrist compasses among special operators today. Over time, several brands stepped up to produce simpler and cheaper compasses which evolved along with the world of watchmaking. Starting in the 1990s, the NSN or Nato Stock Number formerly held by Waltham was taken over by Stocker & Yale with a modernized version of the W.C.C. with tritium gas tube illumination housed within an aluminum case. In 2004, Cammenga, already a maker of many issued compasses, purchased the rights and continues to manufacture the mil-spec wrist compass, now called the J582, for the US Military. While it is an effective tool, the Cammenga is not designed for extended diving or swimming operations. A USAF Pararescueman wears a G-Shock DW6900 alongside a Suunto Clipper compass in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: Michael Yon) A more modern option that has also been issued to and privately purchased by members of the US Military is the Suunto M-9, though it is typically worn alone on the opposite wrist as opposed to with a watch. For wear on a watch strap, Suunto’s Clipper compass and a similar design from Marathon are also common options for military personnel. All offer significant utility for special operators, but most lack the refinement to go toe to toe with watches from brands like Rolex, Omega, Tudor, and Seiko. The W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass A core principle of everything we do at W.O.E. is honoring our heritage. Inspired by the link between tool watches utilized by SpecOps and capable wrist compasses, we set out to design a modern compass measuring that also calls back to the W.C.C. wrist compasses historically used by SpecOps. The result of over two years of prototyping and extensive testing by divers and SpecOps personnel, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that celebrates the heritage of our community. With a custom dial featuring C3 Super-LumiNova, a grade two titanium case, individual water resistance testing to 100 meters, and slim 24.5mm wide by 12mm thick dimensions, the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass is a capable tool that also looks the part alongside tool watches from Seiko, Rolex, Omega, and Tudor. Click HERE to learn more about the W.O.E. compass. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreThe Commando Hubert Tudor Black Bay 54 & The Heritage Commando Strap
A Watch & Strap Commemorating The 100th Training Class For France’s Elite Maritime SpecOps Unit Though military-issued timepieces and privately-purchased watches worn during military or...
Read MoreA Watch & Strap Commemorating The 100th Training Class For France’s Elite Maritime SpecOps Unit Though military-issued timepieces and privately-purchased watches worn during military or government service are significant to our community, the concept of a customized “Unit Watch” presents one of the single best examples of how watches are ingrained in the culture of the military, SpecOps, and the world of intelligence. There are other important players in the modern unit watch landscape, but Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) will always occupy a special place in our hearts. From the Shield’s historic connections to US Navy SEALs in the Vietnam War to the modern US Secret Service Counter Assault Team and multiple Tier One SpecOps units, Tudor’s roots within our community run as deep as any. Among Tudor’s earliest forays into military service is the brand’s relationship with the Marine Nationale or French Navy, a partnership born in the 1950s that laid the groundwork for the modern Pelagos FXD in 2021. In this Dispatch, our friend Ross Povey, a dedicated Tudor expert and the founder of Tudor Collector, shares the intriguing story of the second modern Tudor commissioned for the French Navy’s elite maritime commandos. By Ross Povey The world of military timepieces is enriched by stories of watches that need to have durability, precision, and often distinctive design elements. Whether at the direction of the specific defence department or the requirements of the personnel using them, these watches often have unique attributes that set them apart from civilian examples. And it’s this aspect that drives collectors to acquire such timepieces and chase examples that have been developed and used by the military. Tudor’s relationship with the Commando Hubert dates back to the 1950s, with this image of a Commando Hubert operator and their Tudor Sub coming from 1977. Tudor has a track record of working closely with military forces around the world and no other example is more widely recognised than its partnership with the French National Navy, the Marine Nationale, or MN as it is known. The genesis of the Pelagos FXD lies within this partnership and it is a relationship that dates back to the 1950s. Aside from the publicly available Pelagos FXD and the new FXD GMT MN editions, there has recently been another special “unit watch” commissioned by Commando Hubert to commemorate the 100th Combat Swimmer Course that concluded this summer. The Tudor Black Bay 54 was designed to commemorate the 100th combat diver’s course for the Commando Hubert. The watch is a custom Black Bay 54 with “200m” text on the dial and it marks another significant chapter in this storied history. This special edition watch honours the significant milestone of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course hosted and led by the French diving school, the course is a prerequisite for an operator to be assigned to Commando Hubert. This watch also gave birth to a unique accessory; a unique version of the W.O.E.-ZA Commando Strap crafted from vintage parachute material. 100th Combat Swimmer Course The graduation ceremony following the 100th Combat Swimmer Course. (Photo Credit: Marine Nationale) The Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) is a rigorous 27-week training regimen that prepares France's elite naval commandos for complex operations across various environments. Conducted under the supervision of a lieutenant and ten petty officer instructors, the CNC encompasses three intensive phases, focusing on oxygen diving, preparation for combat swimmer attacks, and specialized combat swimmer skills. The program challenges candidates with deep-sea navigation, underwater demolition, and high-risk parachuting, concluding with a demanding set of exams to test their mastery of these complex disciplines. Only 5 to 10% of those who start the CNC earn the combat swimmer certificate, a testament to the course's difficulty and the high standards expected of participants. This badge of honour signifies more than just successful completion; it denotes a profound journey of personal and professional growth, marking its bearers as exceptional warriors capable of adapting to and controlling aquatic, terrestrial, and aerial environments. This elite training ensures that graduates are not only skilled in advanced military techniques but also equipped to lead and excel in high-stakes missions worldwide. The Black Bay 54 Unit Watch The standard production Black Bay 54 calls back to Tudor’s earliest dive watches. Released in 2023, Tudor revisited its origins with the Black Bay 54, a homage to the brand's first Submariner from 1954. The watch features a historically accurate bezel insert and a tweak to the hands, presenting a watch that's true to its dive watch heritage. With a number of striking similarities to the Submariner reference 7922 with a 37mm no-crown-guard case and water resistance up to 100 meters, the Black Bay 54 maintains these classic proportions while incorporating the modern Tudor manufacture movement, calibre MT5400, and enhancing water resistance to 200 meters. Unlike the standard Tudor models available through official retailers, the Black Bay 54 designed for Commando Hubert includes unique elements that I can share here exclusively. The watch dial, uncluttered by the usual depth ratings and certifications, features a streamlined aesthetic with just a bold red "200m" marking, omitting the typical chronometer certification texts for a no-nonsense military vibe. Furthermore, the dial is marked with "CNC xxx-100" at the bottom, signifying "Cours des Nageurs de Combat" and linking each watch to one of the 100 combat divers’ courses, creating a direct line to the historical courses taught by Commando Hubert. The Heritage Edition Commando Strap (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) To accompany the special edition Black Bay 54, Commando Hubert wanted a special strap, which led to the collaboration with my friends at Watches of Espionage and Zulu Alpha Straps. As I’ve written about before, the straps delivered to accompany the commemorative Black Bay 54 were made from a new-old-stock roll of original parachute webbing. This strap not only provides a robust and practical fit for diving and military operations but also carries the essence of history in its fibres. To complete the set, each watch and strap came in a miniature FROGS (Full Range Oxygen Gas System) as a watch box. The collaboration began when Commando Hubert divers expressed the need for a durable strap that resonated with the heritage of Marine Nationale divers. These elite divers historically crafted makeshift straps from parachute webbing for their Tudor MilSubs. The result of extensive prototyping and feedback from the divers led to the creation of two versions of the Commando Strap: a regular production version made from bespoke elastic webbing and the Heritage edition made from vintage material. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) Each strap is fitted with a metal buckle system that has been in use by the Marine Nationale since the 1950s. Used for a number of applications, it was used by Commando Hubert for diving weight belts. The tension makes it very hard to release the system by mistake, but if one decides to ditch some weight in order to surface, it can be done one-handed in a “finger snap”. A Tribute to the Legacy The completion of the 100th Combat Swimmer Course (CNC) by Commando Hubert is not only a milestone for the French Navy but also a celebration of endurance, skill, and the spirit of the elite naval commandos. To commemorate this landmark, we have the special Black Bay 54 that was presented on Heritage Commando Strap, made from vintage parachute webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha Straps) It’s unclear whether the French operators will utilize the special edition Black Bay 54 operationally or view them as commemorative timepieces honouring the unit’s history, but we do know the Commando Hubert wear and use their special two-line FXD models in diving contexts, even forgoing the use of a diving computer in many combat swimming scenarios. In any case, the addition of the 100th CNC Black Bay 54 into the annals of Tudor’s already extensive history with maritime special operations is further evidence of the strong link between timepieces and special operations. As W.O.E. often says, the Use Your Tools ethos is alive and well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: French SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap About The Author: Ross Povey, the founder of TudorCollector.com is regarded as the world’s leading expert on vintage Tudor watches. Although an expert on Rolex and Tudor watches primarily, Ross’s work covers the entire field of horology. He writes for and has contributed to some of the most influential publications, including Revolution, The Telegraph, GQ, Forbes, The Rake, Wristcheck, Watch Pro, Watchonista, Hodinkee, QP and is the co-author of the book Daytona Perpetual, a celebration of the automatic Rolex Daytona released through Pucci Papaleo Editore. Ross is Communications Director for Monaco Legend Group auction house and is also an international speaker, regularly hosting watch events in the UK and globally.
Read MoreWhy SpecOps Wear Watches On The Inside Of The Wrist
And Why You Probably Shouldn’t Look at photos from any conflict over the past 50 years and you are bound to see uniformed US military...
Read MoreAnd Why You Probably Shouldn’t Look at photos from any conflict over the past 50 years and you are bound to see uniformed US military personnel wearing a wristwatch on the inside of their wrist. While it’s difficult to pinpoint when exactly this tradition began, Vietnam-era Green Beret and MACV-SOG operator John Stryker Meyer AKA “Tilt” told us it was a habit he picked up in Special Forces training in the 1960s. The practice of wearing a watch on the inside of the wrist has several functional benefits in a tactical environment, including protecting the glass/crystal from damage, preventing glare or reflections, and ensuring the watch is legible while operating a weapons system or lying prone. That said, I would argue today “inside-wristing” is just as much about culture as anything else. A watch is one of the few items customizable by uniformed personnel and for some it is a sign that you are a “gunfighter”, “operator” or play Call of Duty on the weekends. NSW operators train Hellenic special operations forces in 2024. First, let's explore some of the legitimate reasons why military personnel wear watches on the inside of the wrist. To Negate Reflection: Managing one's profile—how easily you are seen or discovered—is a key part of any military operation. Camouflage is the most obvious example, but something as small as a glare or reflection of a wristwatch in a sniper hide or while moving to target could compromise an operation. There are few reflective things in nature and a trained observer is always looking for something abnormal. Wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist reduces this risk. Delta Force member with Suunto compass/watch combo, the watch on the inside of the wrist. Light Signature Management: In a tactical environment, a watch's nighttime legibility is essential. Most analog military watches incorporate luminous phosphorescent “lume” on the dial and hands and Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.s) have a push button illumination function. “Light discipline” is a part of signature management in low light/no light scenarios, and the lume can pose a potential vulnerability, especially with dive watches that are designed for underwater legibility. Tritium, a radioactive isotope commonly used in military watches, is particularly visible through Night Vision Goggles and scopes. Again, wearing the watch on the inside of the wrist diverts the light towards the individual vs towards the enemy, potentially reducing your signature. Modern dive watches like the Tudor FXD offer significant illumination, which is ideal for diving but not for combat. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Of note, over time military members have used several other methods to mitigate the reflection and light emissions, including a simple watch cover, with Vietnam Era Navy SEALs fashioning snap-in rivets to attach a thin leather watch cover. In the African bush wars, this was also common and served the additional purpose of protecting the watch against harsh environments and thorns. Legendary SEAL Barry Enoch wears a Tudor Submariner with a custom leather cover intended to limit reflections. Running The Gun: One of the most common reasons people point to for wearing the watch inside the wrist is that it is easier to check the time when weapons handling during combat and/or Close Quarters Battle (CQB). The idea is that with the watch on your support hand extended on the rifle, the time is visible without canting or adjusting your wrist. While I wonder how often someone really checks the time during a gunfight, this theory likely has validity for those with extended periods lying prone and/or in a sniper hide where movement could give up your position. 10th Special Forces Group conducting CQB training. Additionally, some former SOF members I spoke with explained that wearing the watch inside the wrist makes it easier to check the time with bulky gloves and prevents grinding the watch into the wrist during push-ups and obstacle course runs. Cool Guy Fashion: Despite the many legitimate reasons for practitioners to wear watches on the inside of the wrist, I would argue that for many it boils down to culture and personal expression. “Tacticool” fashion, whether Merrell shoes, 5.11 pants, Oakleys or beards, and American Flag baseball hats, generally starts with SOF units, born out of utility. It is then picked up by the “regular” military and ultimately filters down to pop culture, civilians, and weekend warriors. SEAL Team TV Show. Why You Shouldn't “Inside Wrist” As a former CIA Case Officer, I generally avoid anything that is tacticool. While it may be a practical application for law enforcement, SpecOps, and uniformed military personnel, a black Digital Tool Watch on the inside of your wrist is a clear “tell,” a signal to others that one is a “quiet professional-gray man.” For Case Officers, who mostly operate in capital cities while undercover (i.e. posing as something they aren’t) this watch can make one stick out as much as a gold Rolex Daytona. That said, at the end of the day you should enjoy this hobby in any way you see fit. If you want to LARP as a Navy SEAL, LARP on. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches *This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreThe Most Iconic Military Watch Of All Time? The Seiko 6309
One Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable By Benjamin Lowry At W.O.E., we are vehemently brand...
Read MoreOne Of History’s Most Important Diving & Military Watches Was Also One Of The Most Attainable By Benjamin Lowry At W.O.E., we are vehemently brand agnostic. However, certain brands and watches have a habit of popping up again and again in relation to our community. Who are we to argue with the influence of Sketchy Breitling unit watches or Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.)? As we often say, we don’t make the rules. W.O.E. himself has a habit of getting sentimental about watches including his custom black Tudor Pelagos FXD, the Jordanian Breitling that started this whole thing, and, of course, the Arabic Seiko (AKA the Seik-W.O.E.). A USMC Marine Combatant Diver wears a 6309 in 1994. (Photo Credit: US National Archive) That’s all fine and good for him, but for me, a former Coastie and commercial diver, there is another watch in Seiko’s vintage catalog that is even more meaningful: the 6309, or “Turtle” as it's known to many military members. Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. I would even go as far as to say it is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades, issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others. The 6309’s Military Legacy In the late 1970s, SEAL Teams transitioned from Tudor Submariners (left) to the Seiko 6309 (right). (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Released in 1976 and following in the footsteps of Seiko’s 6105 “Willard” models, the 6309 caught on almost immediately with the military. Before Seiko, the US Military of the 1960s and 70s purchased and issued the also legendary Tudor Submariner for its divers and amphibious special operators including Navy SEALs. However, with price points for Rolex and even Tudor watches ascending beyond the meager means of military procurement channels, many SEAL Teams and other SpecOps units adopted the less expensive but equally capable Seiko. Tim Ryan, a legendary US Air Force Pararescueman (PJ) wears a Seiko 6309 during dive training. Not limited to official issue, the 6309 was also commonly purchased by military members at the local PX or Navy Exchange. In past profiles of special operators, which are extensive at this point, the 6309 is easily the most commonly encountered mechanical dive watch in the late 70s and 80s. When US Navy SEAL Dave Hall shook hands with Scout Sniper legend Gunny Carlos Hathcock after completing sniper school, a Seiko Turtle was on his wrist. When Jose Gordon was a young Army Ranger assisting the Contras in their fight against communism in Nicaragua in the 1980s, he wore a Seiko 6309. In more recent years, Kyle Defoor—who would go on to serve with SEAL Team Six or DEVGRU—wore a 6309 formerly belonging to SEAL legend Rudy Boesch, again demonstrating the decades-long relationship between this watch and the SpecOps community. One of the two “Dadaepo Frogmen” captured by the South Korean Army in 1983 wore a Seiko 6309. If that ain’t ubiquitous, I don’t know what is. The Turtle’s reach was not limited to the United States, the military, or even the free world, with the 6309 also being commonly spotted on international forces of the day, countless recreational divers, as well as North Korean frogmen doing their very best to conduct maritime espionage operations off the coast South Korea. When it comes to military legitimacy, the 6309 is as real as it gets. Again, we don’t make the rules. An Attainable Yet Capable Mechanical Diver From Japan A US Navy SEAL wearing a 6309 in 1987. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) While the 6309’s brick shithouse-like reputation and legible design were also key components of its success, its single biggest selling proposition was value, coming in at a much more attainable price point compared to Swiss-made mechanical dive watches of the era. A US Seiko retail pricing guide from the Fall of 1977 lists the DE095, the 6309’s official reference at the time, for $155. No matter how you slice it, the 6309 did the same job for less money. While that equates to somewhere around $793 today, the Seiko represented a relative bargain, with a Tudor Submariner coming in at $295 suggested retail price the same year, which is something like $1,525 today, also known as double the price. For argument’s sake, a Rolex Submariner Date would have set you back $585 in 1977 or $3,024 in 2024 dollars. Surprisingly, the Turtle’s modern equivalent, the SRPE93, is relatively less expensive than its ancestor at $495. US Navy SEAL Dave Hall shakes hands with Marine Scout Sniper Carlos Hathcock while wearing a Seiko Turtle. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) In military settings, the almighty dollar is often king and the cheapest thing that works is typically the mantra for selecting gear. When Seiko’s 6309 hit the scene, the days were quickly numbered for Swiss watches in military settings, with the 6309 and later Seiko references seeing widespread use in the amphibious military community through the advent of G-Shocks and other capable digital watches in the early 1980s. In many ways, the Seiko 6309 served as the last great mechanical dive watch in broader military circulation, a proud title by any standard. Design & Specs A Navy Diver wears a 6309 on an Olongapo bracelet in 1988. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) No matter how attractive the price, a dive watch trusted by a Navy Diver, SEAL, or US Air Force Pararescueman has to get the job done first and foremost, and that’s exactly what the 6309 did. Measuring somewhere around 44mm across its cushion case and only 45mm in length, the Turtle mastered the challenging task of being large enough for excellent legibility while also fitting well on the vast majority of wrists. A recessed crown at four o’clock was also unobtrusive and worked well with myriad diving suits and for physical training, which SEALs and other special operators seem to enjoy. The author’s 6309 and other ephemera from his USCG service. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The dial and hands, whose basic design still permeates Seiko’s diving range, were legible day and night, a product of Seiko’s legendary luminescent material. The bezel was tall, with a prominent double row of teeth that could be easily operated with gloves, and also offered fine adjustment with a 60-click bidirectional system in stark contrast to Rolex and Tudor’s friction-fit bezels of the era. The rubber strap was comfortable and long enough for virtually any wearing scenario. A 1970s 6309 issued to SEAL Legend Rudy Boesch and currently owned by Kyle Defoor, a veteran of SEAL Team Six. (Photo Credit: Kyle Defoor) These were all great features to have, but the 6309 movement powering the Turtle was the star of the show. While it lacked hacking—a feature relegated to the JDM 6306—the 6309 earned a reputation for being unstoppable, with many running well for decades without even the slightest hint of a service. Accuracy was hit-and-miss but good enough for most operators in the pre-digital age, and the sheer volume of solid vintage 6309s on the market speaks to the watch’s rugged build. My 6309 From August Of 1980 The author’s 1980 6309-7040. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Despite the 6309’s heritage and considerable laurels in the arena of dive watches, much of my fondness for the watch stems from my experiences wearing mine, a birthday gift from my father—who is also a dedicated watch enthusiast—back in 2010, shortly before I joined the Coast Guard. I had a limited understanding of how to wear a vintage watch at the time, and I wore it like it was brand new. 30 years old and likely never serviced beyond some aggressive case polishing, the timekeeping sucked and the lume was toast. Still, the rugged old diver provided so much to like, serving me well over four years at Coast Guard Station San Francisco including no shortage of boat ops. At some point, I became wise enough to get the watch serviced and pressure-tested, which was smart considering my transition into commercial diving. It’s not easy to be as cool as a SEAL wearing a M81 boonie hat in 1987, but a Seiko 6309 is a start. (Photo Credit: US National Archive) I wore the beat-up old Turtle on several scuba and hardhat dives, once again using the watch as the tool it was intended to be when the model was introduced in 1976. Now 44 years old, and despite a collection that now includes watches like the Tudor Pelagos 39, the 6309 still finds its way into the rotation. A watch is never just a watch, and for me, this old Turtle symbolizes not only my own personal history with the military and diving but also a broader decades-long heritage with some of the military’s most elite maritime operators. If you’re a member of the greater W.O.E. community and appreciate dive watches and you haven’t taken the proverbial plunge with a vintage 6309, you’re doing it wrong. Luckily, with decent vintage examples still going for between $500 and $1,000 in many cases, the 6309 is a great opportunity to get into what I would call not only the real Seik-W.O.E but perhaps also the most W.O.E. watch you can get. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Officer’s Love Affair with the Arabic Seiko
Read MoreThe Watches Worn By SpecOps At An Invite-Only Dive Event
When retired US Navy SEAL and friend of W.O.E. Dave Hall reached out saying he would be attending SOF Dive, an invite-only event for special...
Read MoreWhen retired US Navy SEAL and friend of W.O.E. Dave Hall reached out saying he would be attending SOF Dive, an invite-only event for special operations divers, we told him to keep an eye out for cool watches. If you don’t know Dave, on top of being an old-school frogman, he’s the subject of one of our first and favorite profiles (read HERE). Dave is a dedicated watch enthusiast, and the owner of an incredible SEAL Team-issued Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner backed by a story you’ll have to read to believe. During his career, Dave also conducted a clandestine beach reconnaissance in Haiti in 1994 and deployed numerous times during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), earning a Purple Heart during a firefight on an Iraqi rooftop in 2004 before making an unlikely comeback to full duty. As you may have surmised from this introduction, Dave is the kind of guy who takes his work seriously, and the photos he sent and stories he relayed from SOF Dive were so intriguing we knew we had to share. As we often discuss, many at the tip of the undersea spear rely on Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) for timing, but Dave’s reporting proves once again there is a thriving community of analog tool watch users ascribing to the “Use Your Tools” ethos in the world of SpecOps, and especially diving. The Real Watches Worn By SOF Divers Dave locking out of a German submarine torpedo tube in 1991 while training with the German Kampfschwimmers. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) By Dave Hall Pre-Dive: As a retired career SEAL and an avid watch aficionado, I keep my eyes peeled for interesting watches on the wrists of interesting people I meet. I recently attended the SOF Dive 2024 event as a strategic advisor for Blueye Robotics, a Norwegian manufacturer of remotely operated vehicles or ROVs. This was the 3rd annual SOF Dive organized by Patriot3 and the second year it was held at the Fantasy Lake Adventure Park in Wake Forest, NC. The venue was perfect for combat swimmers from around the world to handle and dive new gear as well as to interface with the manufacturers of such specialized military diving equipment over the course of three days. SOF Dive presents a rare opportunity for combat divers from around the world to meet in person, test equipment, and talk shop. (Photo Credit: Patriot3, Inc.) Besides the diving, there was ample time to socialize after hours both onsite and at Compass Rose Brewery in nearby Raleigh. As a retired frogman, watch spotter, and Blueye Robotics rep, I was perfectly positioned to observe the various watches used by U.S. and allied special ops frogmen. Let’s dive into the watches of SOF Dive 2024. Leaving Surface: The event was a great opportunity for me to reconnect with some units I had worked with in the past and to discuss current trends in each unit’s equipment selection, mission needs, and watches. In addition to G-Shock and other affordable digital watches, there were more Garmins than I expected and a smattering of interesting analog tool watches, always great to see. German Kampfschwimmer - The Sinn UX S One of my first stops was paying a visit to the Kommando Spezialkräfte Marine (KSM), a unit comprised of individual operators known as Kampfschwimmer or Combat Swimmers, Germany’s equivalent to our SEALs. I was fortunate to work with the Kampfschwimmers during my time in the Teams and learned a tremendous amount from them in Germany at the end of the Cold War in 1991. I saw a few guys jocking up in German Flecktarn camo wetsuits and went over to introduce myself. Asking if they were from Eckernförde and seeing smiles and affirmative nods, I closed in to finalize my bonafides. The author testing the extremely rare HK P11 in Germany in 1991. The rare HK was designed to fire tungsten darts in combat diving scenarios. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) I produced some pics on my phone of my time working with their unit in Germany in the early 90s and before you knew it, we were old friends talking shop. Apparently, the pictures I showed them are still on the walls of their headquarters back home in Germany and they recognized them instantly. With the visual creds established and after dropping some familiar names back and forth, we chatted about old unit members, new gear, and watches. One of the Kampfschwimmer’s Sinn UX S models alongside Dave’s well-worn U2. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The group that attended SOF Dive was happy to show me their issued Sinn UX S watches, a special unit version of the brand’s oil-filled quartz diver with the crown at ten o’clock as opposed to the traditional four. The UX S issued to Kampfschwimmers is the most recent installment in the unit’s impressive horological history that also includes a special IWC Porsche Design titanium diver known as the Ocean “Bund”, which dates back to my time working with the Germans. The Kampfschwimmer UX S is virtually the same watch issued to GSG 9, Germany’s elite federal police tactical unit, but without a unit logo on the dial. “It’s a little stealthier that way”, the combat divers said with a wink. The KSM’s watch history also includes the titanium IWC Porsche Design Ocean Bund. (Watch Photo Credit: Hairspring) US Army Special Forces Demonstrated by this Special Forces operator wearing a Seamaster Diver 300 in 2023, there are watch nerds throughout the world of Special Operations (Photo Credit: 20th Special Forces Group) More commonly associated with terrestrial operations, US Army Special Forces maintains a comprehensive combat diving capability. Combat Diver qualified Green Berets from the 3rd, 7th, and 10th Special Forces Groups attended SOF Dive 2024. Interestingly, their watches varied from Group to Group. Let’s take a closer look. 10th Special Forces Group - Marathon TSAR Marathon is one of the only brands directly supplying the US Military with analog watches in 2024 (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Hailing from their Headquarters in Fort Carson, Colorado, combat divers from the 10th Special Forces Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition held in Key West, Florida. All three members of the 10th SFG(A) attending SOF Dive 2024 displayed their unit-issued Marathon TSARs, each worn on aftermarket nylon straps. Combat divers from 10th Group recently won the 2024 USASOC Best Combat Diver Competition. (Photo Credit: US Army) Analog watches are generally preferred for oxygen rebreather operations by the most accomplished combat divers, so maybe the uniformly-issued TSAR is a small peek at the differentiator that makes 10th SFG (A) excel at the Combat Diver Competition. I’ve crossed paths with 10th Group guys many times in Europe over the years. They’ve always been top-notch, highly professional, and well-led soldiers. Marathon, a popular watch in our community, is well-known for supplying its SAR collection to US and Canadian military forces. 3rd Special Forces Group - A Casio & Garmins Garmin and Casio will always be popular among special operators. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Two out of three of the operators from 3rd Group went for Garmin with one guy sporting a more rugged Casio, though it wasn’t technically a G-Shock. The Casio was a W736H-1AV and the Garmins appeared to be from the Tactix and Fenix families. The Casio with its easy-to-touch backlight button is great for checking those leg times on combat swimmer dives. According to the guys, Garmin smartwatches are catching on with 3rd Group divers, although I personally would relegate that watch mainly for compressed air dives rather than oxygen rebreather dives. As discussed in a recent Dispatch covering the assassination of former Russian submariner commander Stanislav Rzhitsky (read HERE), connected watches including Garmin and the Apple Watch also pose significant risks. I operated with 3rd SFG (A) in Afghanistan in 2005 and have nothing but admiration for the Army Special Forces men I have worked with from that Group. 7th Special Forces Group - The Timex Ironman Classic 30 A Timex Ironman on the wrist of a 7th Group operator. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) This watch surprised me but makes a certain amount of sense upon further examination. An affordable digital Timex is optimized for an owner who takes fitness seriously while still wanting to blend seamlessly into urban environments. The sole 7th Group guy I met was proud to display his Timex Ironman while his fellow SFers attempted to tease him. All in all, the Ironman isn’t a horrible watch for diving and there are other examples of Timex being used by SEALs and other special operators. Combat swimmer dives are typically rather shallow so the watch is more than adequate as far as watertight integrity. Former US Navy SEALs Jocko Willink (right) wearing a Timex Ironman in the 1990s while re-enlisting legendary SEAL and good friend Thomas “Drago” Dzieran (left). The Indiglo watch light feature attracted a lot of SEAL attention in the late 1980s. I purchased my own Timex before the G-Shocks were issued which were a little more rugged. I didn’t get to the bottom of whether this one was issued or personally purchased. I suppose it could go either way. US Marine Corps 2nd Force Reconnaissance - TAG Heuer, Sangin, & More Garmin A Garmin and a Sangin make a lot of sense, but the TAG Heuer was out of left field. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) With an operational emphasis on amphibious capabilities, it was no surprise to see the men of US Marine Corps Force Reconnaissance in attendance. Their watches were particularly interesting and once again demonstrated that watch enthusiasts are everywhere and by no means uncommon in special operations. Unsurprisingly, one Marine wore a Garmin Fenix Pro, but both of the others served up more obscure choices, with one opting for a GMT version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer and the other Devil Dog choosing a Kinetic GMT from Sangin, a Marine SOF veteran-owned brand that has been profiled on W.O.E. in the past (read HERE). A couple of deep cuts from the men of USMC Force Recon. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The use of GMT watches makes a lot of sense given the use of Zulu Time in military and intelligence operations. A Sangin on the wrist of a Marine special operator is also no big shocker given the founder of the company comes from that community, but a seldom-seen GMT version of the modern TAG Heuer Aquaracer is something I never would have expected. I can’t help but wonder what the story is there, and I didn’t get a chance to ask. I was fortunate to work closely with Marine Special Operations Forces during my SEAL career. My SEAL platoon trained with and deployed alongside a 2nd Force Recon Company from 1989 to 1990 and we often interacted with Recon Marines during exercises and deployments in the years following, including Marine Corps SOCOM Det ONE in 2004 while in Iraq. It’s always good to see these guys getting after it outside their quonset huts on Onslow Beach. Oorah, to them. French Commando Hubert - The Garmin Descent Mk2 A Garmin Descent Mk2 was worn by a frogman from the Commando Hubert. Better known for its connection to the Tudor Pelagos FXD, France’s Commando Hubert also utilizes more tech-forward digital smartwatches from Garmin for certain training and operational scenarios. However, when diving with a rebreather, members of the unit indicated they only use analog watches. Still, at least at SOF Dive, the French frogmen we met wore the Garmin Descent Mk2, essentially a hybrid between the Fenix fitness smartwatch and a full-service diving computer. We asked the Commando Hubert divers to wear their FXD watches to next year’s SOF Dive. (Photo Credit: Commando Hubert) Given W.O.E.’s recent release of the Commando Strap, which was designed for the Commando Hubert to use with its Tudor FXD unit watches, we might have preferred to see another two-line FXD in the wild, but it’s possible the operators making the trip to the United States preferred to keep their more expensive Tudor watches at home in Toulon. Of note is the custom camouflage wetsuit worn by Commando Hubert, which is produced by Beuchat, a French diving company associated with the Marine Nationale for decades. My SEAL platoon worked closely with Commando Hubert at the end of the Cold War while deployed in 1991 to Europe before and during a large NATO exercise. The post-exercise drinking in Scotland put my high school French teacher’s laborious instruction to good use. I stuck to English this time around and thankfully their English was much better than my French ever was. Romanian 164th Naval Special Operations - Garmin A Romanian special operator—like many others at SOF Dive—utilized a Garmin for his diving needs. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) The Romanian divers were some of my favorites to speak with on this trip. They, like many of the other divers, utilized a Garmin for their diving needs. However, unlike the other divers at SOF Dive 2024, their country was not on the “good guy” list when I began my career in Naval Special Warfare in the late 1980s. Times change, and in Romania’s case, for the better, thankfully. I thoroughly enjoyed discussing their country with them and just generally affirming that frogmen the world over share a commonality through our experiences on and under the sea in very trying conditions that only those who have “been there and done that” truly understand. I was very honored to receive a challenge coin from the Romanians and wish them the very best. Pararescueman From The 24th Special Tactics Squadron (STS) - Even More Garmin The men of US Air Force Pararescue, commonly known as PJs, are the military’s elite rescue specialists, trained in emergency medicine as well as small unit tactics, diving, parachuting, and mountaineering. To maintain their qualifications, PJs have an intense training schedule, and the PJ I ran into had a picture of his young son displayed as a screensaver on his Garmin. PJs have one of the broadest mission sets in the US Military. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) I’ve worked with PJs in training and abroad. These guys are top-notch medical professionals. One of my SEAL sniper students later crossed decks and became a PJ and another crossed over and became a CCT. It didn’t surprise me in the least to see a JSOC PJ with a technical digital dive watch on his wrist. Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8 Somewhat surprisingly, the SEAL Teams aren’t currently sending frogmen to SOF Dive, but there was a representative from Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Group 8, the parent command for SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 and 2 as well as other specialized reconnaissance units. Members of SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team 1 float in a circle formation after surfacing from an emergency bail-out drill from a dry deck shelter during an exercise in the southern Pacific Ocean in 2012. (Photo Credit: US Navy) The support Navy First Class Diver from NSWG-8 wore his G-Shock to SOF Dive 2024. He explained that his issue watch is a Garmin but it’s a hassle removing the smartwatch when entering the classified workspaces at Group 8, so he generally prefers to wear his G-Shock. His Casio DW6900-1V served him adequately during SOF Dive 2024. As previously discussed in the W.O.E. Dispatch and our new video, G-Shock occupies a prominent position on the wrist of modern special operators, with four Casio G-Shock references earning an NSN or NATO Stock Number meaning the watches can be easily issued to US Military forces. Leaving Bottom, Surfacing, & Post Dive: Watch spotting is always fun. It’s especially fun at events like this. Garmin watches were pretty prevalent on the wrists of many of our allied SOF divers and were worn by numerous units beyond what we have listed here, including the Danish Frogman Corps or Frømandskorpset. That said, analog watches from various manufacturers are still very much out there on the wrists of serious SOF divers. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey of a SEAL Through Watch Collecting *Featured image credit: Patriot3, Inc.
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: CIA & Special Forces Trading A Rolex For Their Lives
Myth Or Reality? In the Intelligence and Special Operations community, a Rolex is often mentioned as a tool for escape and evasion, serving as a...
Read MoreMyth Or Reality? In the Intelligence and Special Operations community, a Rolex is often mentioned as a tool for escape and evasion, serving as a recognizable item of value that can be traded for a ride to the nearest border or a seat on the last plane out of a war-torn country in an emergency. But has a Rolex ever been used for this purpose or is this simply a myth, a tall tale told over beers? In our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we delve into the myths and realities of trading a Rolex for your life. The concept is simple: Should you find yourself in need of immediate help, the watch can be utilized as a form of currency that can be traded for a few hours of shelter in a basement, a ride to the nearest international border, or a seat on the next plane out of a war-torn nation. A Rolex is easier to carry and less likely to be misplaced than ounces of gold or stacks of hundred-dollar bills. This all tracks, but has it ever happened in a real operational scenario? In this episode, we look to history, pop cultural anecdotes, and our own experiences to discover whether a Rolex has ever actually been traded for an intelligence officer or a special operator’s life. Happy Hunting, - W.O.E.
Read MoreThe CWC SBS - The Watch Of Choice For UK Special Forces
How The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look...
Read MoreHow The British Ministry Of Defence Went From Omega & Rolex To A Blacked-Out Diver From A Small British Brand Where plenty of brands look to establish caché among collectors using overstated connections to the military, CWC is legit, having earned a passionate following among military end users and watch enthusiasts alike. CWC is one of the few analog watches still issued today, which sets it in a special category within the W.O.E. community. Within CWC’s collection, the SBS Diver Issue stands out as a watch with real street cred in our community, having been issued to a Tier One maritime special operations unit and still seeing active service within the British Military today. For a closer look at the dive watch of choice for UKSF, we asked Jonathan Hughes, an avid CWC fan and the operator of CWCaddict.com, for a brief overview of the history of the CWC SBS. SBS Sergeant Paul McGough wearing a CWC SBS at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison, Afghanistan in November 2001. By Jonathan Hughes Over the last 70 years, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) has specified and ordered a variety of dive watches for specialist operators in the British military—starting with Rolex Submariners in the 1950s and early 1960s, the Omega Seamaster 300 in the late 1960s, the Sub again in the 1970s, and CWC from the 1980s onwards along with a smattering of Precistas. The latest iteration of the official MoD special ops diver’s watch, though, is a blacked-out, day-date, quartz diver from CWC. Officially known as the “UKSF” watch, it is commonly referred to as the “SBS” after the unit that first ordered it, the Special Boat Service. The modern CWC SBS Diver Issue. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Once an under-the-radar brand virtually unknown outside the British Military, CWC is now appreciated among enthusiasts as the “watch that replaced the MilSub” thanks to Jason Heaton’s excellent article in Hodinkee. The story goes that when the MoD was looking for a more cost-effective replacement for the Rolex Submariner, they turned to CWC, a business set up in 1972 by Ray Mellor exclusively to supply military and government contracts. By the end of that decade, CWC had produced and supplied around 40,000 general service watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and pocket watches, but no diver’s watches as of yet. A Royal Navy Clearance diver wearing a CWC in the 1980s. In 1980, CWC delivered its first batch of a new watch dubbed the Royal Navy Diver. Taking inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 with a 3-6-9 dial, a big triangle at 12, sword hands, fixed lug bars, and a fully graduated bezel, the CWC RN Diver was initially supplied with a Swiss automatic caliber in 1980 and 1981 before changing over to a quartz movement starting in 1983. The watches were issued to and worn by Royal Navy clearance divers, ships’ divers, and the Special Boat Service (SBS), with some of the earliest issued examples seeing service in the Falklands War of 1982. An early 1981 CWC RN Divers watch issued to the SBS. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) The widespread use of these watches by Royal Navy divers led to a request from the SBS for a specially designed version for their unique use case. The stainless steel cases were to be blackened to make them more stealthy and non-reflective for night-time operations. A day and date function was also added, intended to help keep track of the day whilst on longer missions. Legend has it that the black case was inspired by Royal Marines based in Hong Kong who had their steel dive watches black-coated locally, but as no Royal Navy divers have yet surfaced with a black coating, this is probably just a legend. When the UK Special Forces directorate was formed in 1987 to bring together the command of the SAS, the SRS (Special Reconnaissance Service), and the SBS, its name was changed from Special Boat Squadron to Special Boat Service. At this time, the specification for the watch that would become the CWC SBS was drawn up. A modern 1987 Reissue CWC SBS (left) and an original from 1988 (right) pictured on top of the UKSF “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” specification from 1987. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes/CWC) The specification for “Watch, Wrist, Divers, Day and Date Electronic” was signed in April 1987 by the officer commanding the Operational Research Unit of the Royal Marines in Poole, the home base of the SBS. It called for a watch “of rugged construction and able to withstand submersion, shock, and vibrations incident to service use in sea depths down to 300 metres”. It would have a case “manufactured from high-quality corrosion-resistant non-magnetic stainless steel finished to a durable matte black” and a “rotatable elapsed time bezel capable of being turned and set by hand. The outer edge of the bezel is to be knurled sufficiently to allow turning under wet conditions with a gloved hand.” Tritium was used for the luminous material on the hands and dial, and the dial was marked with a circled T to denote the presence of the radioactive luminescent material. Tests for water resistance, shock, impact resistance, and accuracy were all strictly defined. A 1988 CWC SBS with an acrylic bezel. (Photo Credit: CWC) The first run of 100 CWC SBS watches was delivered in 1988 and was assigned a new NATO Stock Number (NSN) of 6645-99-7995443 as well as being marked with 0552, the Royal Navy’s purchasing code at the time. In contrast to later models, the earliest examples featured an acrylic bezel insert, similar to the early automatic Royal Navy watches. The next batch wasn’t produced until 1992, with another 150 watches being supplied. The bezel was changed to a metal insert with wide hash marks similar in style to the previous acrylic bezel. 1992 CWC issue watches. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Through the 1990s and into 2000, another 750 watches were supplied with the Royal Navy purchasing code changing from 0552 to 0555 from 1993 onwards. As well as the SBS, operators from the SAS were also issued these watches. CWC SBS watches were worn by British Special Forces in all the major conflicts of the next 20 years — in both Gulf Wars, and famously in Afghanistan by Sergeant Paul McGough at the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison in November 2001. Special Boat Service operator Stephen Burns wearing an issued CWC SBS in Afghanistan. Around 2000, the MoD discontinued the old-school Royal Navy watch, which had been issued alongside the SBS throughout the 1990s, making the SBS the default-issued dive watch in the British Military. Another 500 SBS watches were ordered in 2001, delivered in three batches over the next two to three years with small variations in the bezel and caseback markings. These were issued more broadly to divers in the British Army’s Royal Engineers, showing the broader distribution beyond the special operations community. In 2005, another 250 watches were ordered specifically for the Royal Engineers—the first 100 were repurposed from a batch made in 2004 that had been marked with the Royal Navy’s 0555 code, some of which had been sold over the counter to civilians at Silvermans, a popular source of MoD surplus. In this batch, the 0555 was crossed out, and W10 (the code for the British Army) was marked above that. The second 150 were manufactured with W10 markings, the only time that a CWC dive watch has been factory-marked “W10”. Issued examples of the CWC SBS from 2005. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) With a total of around 1,600 issued watches between 1988 and 2005, an issued SBS from this era is not a common watch by any means but also not offensively rare if you are a collector looking to track one down. A good, legitimate issued SBS with the circled T on the dial can still be had for under £2,000 (around $2,500) although some years and variations are rarer and more sought after than others. In 2004 and 2008, batches of SBS watches that were identical to issued examples were also produced for the civilian marketplace, serving as an indistinguishable and cheaper alternative to the “real thing”. In fact, some of these “civvie” watches still ended up on the wrists of serving military and police, so you could argue there’s really no difference at all. A Royal Navy Clearance Diver wearing a CWC SBS. For over a decade, the MoD placed no further orders for CWCs, purchasing a mix of other civilian-spec dive watches, including several Citizen models and G-Shocks. But in 2016, orders for the CWC SBS were restarted, with some watches marked 2014 and 2015 being supplied as a trial batch and larger scale orders starting in 2017 and continuing today. Still used by the SBS, the watch is now also supplied to a broader range of units and roles, including to the Paras, the Royal Marines, Royal Navy specialists, the Royal Engineers, and the Submarine Service. A 2015 CWC SBS Issued to the MoD. (Photo Credit: Jonathan Hughes) Over the years, CWC has upgraded the SBS albeit in a subtle fashion. The luminous material that was once tritium is now Super-LumiNova. The crystal is now sapphire instead of mineral glass, and the bezel now rotates with 120 clicks instead of 60 clicks, small changes that add up to a more durable and premium-feeling watch. Still, the modern CWC SBS is more or less the same design as the original in 1988, and you can still buy one directly from CWC that is identical to the current issued examples. As mentioned in the Dispatch detailing the US Military’s relationship with Marathon, issued analog diver’s watches in active military service are few and far between. W.O.E.’s personal 1990's Tritium dial CWC SBS (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) For the British Military, the CWC SBS stands out as a design that was developed for elite special operators in the 1980s, earning a reputation as a dependable diving tool over the decades. Despite massive leaps and bounds in technology in many other areas, the CWC SBS—a straightforward quartz dive watch made in Switzerland—remains in active service, still worn and trusted in the field by the British Military. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Special Boat Service OMEGA Seamaster About The Author: Jonathan Hughes is a UK-based collector of British military and independent watches. His fascination with CWC started when he saw an early automatic Royal Navy dive watch at a London auction some years ago, and realised that a British company had been quietly supplying watches to the Ministry of Defence for many decades, at that time almost unknown to the wider watch collecting world. His CWC collection now numbers around 300 watches and clocks, and he founded and runs the cwcaddict.com website and blog. He is on Instagram at @jjhughes1969 and reposts CWC photos on @cwc_addict.
Read MoreFrench SpecOps, Tudor FXD, & The Commando Strap
How Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD...
Read MoreHow Zulu Alpha & W.O.E. Developed A Strap For The Commando Hubert’s Tudor Unit Watches In the Watches of Espionage space, the Tudor Pelagos FXD reigns supreme as the apex predator of dive watches. Developed in partnership with the Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers, the French equivalent to the US Navy SEALs, the FXD is an unapologetic tool watch with legible snowflake hands, a purpose-designed bezel, and fixed lugs. We have discussed Tudor’s extensive relationship with the military and intelligence community and the FXD is the latest example of the over seven-decade-long partnership. A Commando Hubert operator tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on a training dive. The Commando Strap Earlier this year we were approached by an intermediary with a unique requirement: the French Commando Hubert Combat Swimmers wanted to design a strap for their FXDs. The request was simple. The operators required a practical dive strap that honored the legacy of the past, when the French Navy used parachute webbing to fashion in-field made straps for their Tudor MilSubs. The elastic strap would be used in the field and underwater on their “two line” Pelagos FXDs, as well as a commemorative watch that remains confidential. We immediately said yes and called our friends at Zulu Alpha Straps in the United Kingdom when we set about prototyping and field testing the strap based on feedback and requirements from the Combat Swimmers. The result is The Commando Strap, a sterile strap constructed with UK-produced elastic webbing and a unique French Rapco buckle system specifically requested by the operators. With Commando Hubert’s support, we are pleased to offer a version of this strap to the community, which is available HERE. A Tudor Pelagos FXD on a prototype Commando Strap made from vintage parachute elastic webbing. (Photo Credit: Zulu Alpha) The Marine Nationale & Tudor Partnership - A History Lesson In our community, heritage matters. The Commando Hubert Strap is heavily inspired by the longstanding relationship between Tudor and the French Navy, known as the Marine Nationale. This partnership, officially announced on May 4th, 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD, celebrated nearly seven decades of collaboration. The origins of this relationship date back to 1956 when Tudor first supplied the Submariners to the Marine Nationale for field testing by their elite divers. These early watches, including the famed references 7922 and 7923, were lauded for their precision and water resistance. Over the next few decades, Tudor continually refined its designs to meet the exacting standards of naval operations. Notably, in 1958, the introduction of the reference 7924, or "Big Crown," marked a significant advancement with its new case and enhanced water resistance up to 200 meters. The evolution continued with the 7928 model, which introduced protective shoulders around the crown, a critical design enhancement for underwater activities. A Marine Nationale diver wearing a "Big Crown" Submariner in the late 1950s. The adaptation reached a pinnacle in the late 1960s with the debut of the "Snowflake" Submariners, designed specifically for improved visibility in murky underwater environments. These models featured Snowflake hands and later “Mercedes” hands and continued to be issued through various iterations until the mid-1990s. They have become both collectible and iconic in the world of dive and military watches. Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD “Two-Line” Pelagos FXD on a special dive strap used to connect swimming pairs. The original blue Pelagos FXD was developed in partnership with the French Commando Hubert, featuring a bidirectional countdown bezel, strap slots cut into the titanium case, and a specialized dive strap with a D-ring to connect swimming pairs. The blue dial and bezel were practical choices for underwater visibility but also a nod to the blue snowflake Marine Nationale-issued watches of the 1970s. The main difference between the civilian and French SOF versions is the limited “two line” text on the dial of the unit versions and the unit versions are available in an LHD, or left-hand drive format. Of note, these watches are not issued, but purchased by each operator individually. Commando Hubert Marine Nationale FXD paired with a Commando strap prototype. To mark the 100th graduation of the French Navy’s Diving School, Commando Hubert commissioned 100 Tudor watches outfitted with a special version of the Commando Strap produced using vintage material. Each of these straps is crafted from historical new old stock parachute webbing and presented in a box designed to mimic the look of a rebreather unit, paying homage to the diving equipment used by the Marine Nationale both then and now. Development Of The Commando Strap The Commando Strap utilizes a reproduction webbing and a special quick-release buckle made in France. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The unit expressed a need for a durable strap that incorporated a robust buckle system capable of quick release, crucial for the high-stakes scenarios faced by navy divers. A French-made buckle leveraged for other gear items by French SOF became central to the design. Used in a number of applications by French SOF, these buckles were the perfect utilitarian way to fasten the new straps while offering quick-release functionality. The buckles, sourced directly from France as directed by the Commanding Officer of Commando Hubert, are very secure and have been tried and tested for many years in arduous environments. They are extremely dependable but will chip and patina with use, creating a unique and worn look. The open gate slider buckle that allows the Commando Strap to be used with fixed lugs was also sourced from the UK and executed in stainless steel at the Commando Hubert’s request. The Commando Hubert requested we source a specific French-made buckle familiar to the unit from their load-bearing equipment. The development process involved extensive prototyping to ensure the strap could be seamlessly affixed to watches with fixed lug bars, such as the Pelagos FXD, and adjustable so that they can be extended to fit over wetsuits for operations and training. The Commando Strap was rigorously field-tested by divers in extreme conditions to guarantee its long-term performance. Similar to the vintage straps used by the Marine Nationale, the Commando Strap is 21mm in width, capable of working well with both 20mm and 22mm lugs as well as fixed lugs without looking out of place. 21mm is the width of the traditional parachute straps. A diver from the Commando Hubert tests a prototype of the Commando Strap on his two-line Tudor Pelagos FXD. Aesthetic Appeal The Commando strap features elastic parachute webbing paired with French-made buckles, joined in a design that is both historically rich and functionally superior. The strap’s registered design system allows for easy adjustment and secure fastening, crucial for maintaining performance in the unpredictable environments encountered by military divers. The aesthetic of the strap complements the rugged functionality with a nod to its historical origins. Two versions of the strap were made, one with vintage French Navy parachute webbing and a reproduction version using new custom elastic webbing produced in the UK. The Commando Strap available now is constructed with reproduction webbing while a highly-limited drop utilizing vintage French parachute webbing will be announced at a later date. A diver from the Commando Hubert during prototyping for the Commando Strap. The webbing for the regular production straps was replicated meticulously by Darren at Zulu Alpha Straps in collaboration with a UK-based mill, ensuring that each piece is a faithful homage to the original material used by the French Navy. A Rich Legacy The Commando Hubert Strap is set to become a true collectible item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between the past and the present, and forging a new chapter in the storied history of military use of wristwatches. Beyond its historical value, the strap is an embodiment of the “Use Your Tools” ethos, designed from the ground up in collaboration with elite military divers to create a useful tool to pair with any capable watch. The Commando Strap is made from UK-made reproduction webbing. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The Commando Strap is more than an accessory—it is a piece of history crafted into a form that meets the modern-day demands of navy divers. As this strap wraps around the wrists of today's adventurers, it carries with it the legacy of innovation, a spirit of endurance, and a continuous commitment to excellence. This strap is not just a part of a watch; it is a vital instrument for those who believe in using their tools and honoring the legacy of those who came before us. BUY HERE: Zulu Alpha x W.O.E. Commando Strap If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE.
Read MoreSpecial Forces, CIA, & A Seiko 6105
How A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment...
Read MoreHow A Tier One Cold War Operator Evolved Into A Watch Collector James Stejskal had a long and storied career in Army Special Forces, Detachment A in Berlin, and with the Central Intelligence Agency, In this Dispatch, he shares some of his stories and the tools he used. Late October 1980 - Operation Storm Cloud (Iran II) Rehearsal I checked my watch. We were an hour into the flight, and I hoped the pilot knew where the hell we were because I had no clue. Somewhere over the panhandle of Florida at about 500’ AGL (Above Ground Level) was all I knew because it was black outside. I could see lights from small towns and occasionally the glow of some city far away to the south. We were flying a complex course, or at least the pilot was, wearing his NVGs. I had no intention of bothering him as there was no co-pilot—the port side controls had been removed from the OH-6 “Little Bird” to make room for my partner, Jon, with his collection of guns: a M-16, a M-79 grenade launcher, at least two pistols, and a bunch of ammo. In the back, there was just me and my HK21, a thousand rounds of linked 7.62, two LAWs (Light Anti-tank Weapons), and two Claymores on a rucksack frame, along with a 9mm Walther P-5 and my trusty CZ-75 as back-up. There were only three of us on board—we needed room for at least one passenger on the way out. A General Issue (GI) Hamilton similar to the one worn by the author during training for Operation Stormcloud. I looked at my Hamilton again, the glowing numbers and hands told me it had been exactly two minutes since the last time I checked. The ride was smooth. I watched the pilot, his face barely illuminated with the green light from the goggles, and imagined how tense he must be flying in formation with 11 other helicopters. I knew the others were close as I could occasionally see the sweep of their blades disturbing the air just beyond our own rotors. I was tense, but as a passenger, there’s nothing you can do but trust these guys, the best pilots in the world. This was our final, live-fire rehearsal. If we got the go-ahead, we’d soon be heading for the Middle East on a C-5A loaded with all of us and our Little Birds. The pilot came over the intercom, “Stand by. We’re going in.” Safeties came off as I quickly checked the issued Hamilton once more. It told me what I wanted to know. “On time, On target.” Task Force 158 Helos (OH-6) practicing for Operation Stormcloud in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) The helo shuddered as it flared into a hover some 50 feet above the ground. The clouds parted and our target was illuminated by the full moon. I picked out my targets, and pulled the trigger. To the right and left I saw the sky light up as orange strings of tracer fire descended from each bird in line as we settled to the ground. Operation Stormcloud had been unleashed. — I never much cared about watches growing up. It was only at the age of 16, after I had earned my civilian SCUBA diver rating, that I started considering what kind of watch I needed. The dive instructor made us understand that divers had to have a good timepiece—accurate, waterproof, and pressure-resistant instruments—to time their dives. My first dive watch was a Swiss-made Doxa, and the only way I paid for it was with an employee discount from the dive shop where I worked plus a lot of overtime. A vintage Doxa Sub 300 similar to the one worn by the author. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) I managed to lose that watch not on a dive per se but testing my bravery by jumping into the spillway of a dam. Kingsley Dam on Lake McConaughy in Nebraska was the second largest hydraulic-fill dam in the world when it was completed in 1941. When one of the Park Rangers told us the water comes out below the dam at over 100 miles per hour, I was prompted to say, “Hold my beer,” and test it by leaping in. I survived but on my third jump, the Doxa decided we would part ways and it disappeared into the tumultuous waters. I suspect it’s still down there with the catfish somewhere. The Death of a Doxa. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Moving along, I evidently either failed to learn from my experiences or I just needed more adventures. I signed up for Army Special Forces after I convinced myself that a college education wasn’t getting me anywhere. During selection and training, I continuously heard the mantra that to be truly Special Forces you had to have a Randall Knife, a star-sapphire ring, and a Rolex. But as a “Spec 4” Light Weapons Leader on my first A-Team, the only thing I could manage was the Randall Knife and that was only because my Dad gave his to me—the same one my Mom gave him before he went to Europe in 1944 to visit Adolf. So I went without the Rolex. Most of my old photographs show me without any watch at all. Members of the 39th Special Forces Detachment or “Det A” during ski training in the Alps. Then I was posted to a classified unit in Berlin, Germany. Called “Detachment A” or “Det A,” it was in reality the 39th Special Forces Detachment. We had some interesting missions back then. Urban unconventional warfare (UW) was one, which was essentially getting ready for World War III and conducting stay-behind operations in Berlin and the DDR (East Germany) much like what the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) did in the last World War. Our other mission was Counter-Terrorism (CT), which we picked up in 1975 as the U.S. European Command’s CT Force. You need to remember this was in the nascent stages of America’s war on terror, and we were developing what would become the tactics, techniques, and procedures that seem so common today. A Seiko 6105-8110 similar to the one purchased by the author after attending Special Forces Underwater Operations School. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) With access to the Post Exchange now and having completed the rather arduous Special Forces Underwater Operations School, I decided a new dive watch was in order. I considered a Rolex but it cost around $400 in the PX. So, on the recommendation of a teammate, I decided to buy a Seiko. It was a Model 6105-8110. I seem to remember it cost me around $150—still a pretty hefty sum when you’re only earning around $600 a month, with jump pay, and after taxes and buying a lot of beer downtown. But I was a sergeant and could almost afford it. I know the Rolex would have been a good investment but with my luck… well, read on. And, in retrospect, the Rolex might have attracted too much attention. Even so, my Seiko got more use ensuring I was inside the 4-minute window for an asset meeting on a dark street, making a split-second car pick-up, maybe figuring out the burn rate for a demolition fuse, or synchronizing operations when a radio couldn’t be used. Monitoring my dive time was more of a secondary role. The author preparing a steel cutting charge on the range with his Seiko on the wrist. (Photo Credit: Bob Hopkins) From time to time, Det A operators would ride on what were called “Tours” with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM). Essentially, it was a monitoring organization that kept tabs on the Warsaw Pact in East Germany while the Soviets (SOXMIS) kept tabs on us in West Germany. The Brits and the French had their own versions of the mission (BRIXMIS and MMFL, respectively). Keeping accurate time and knowing your location was paramount on what could be a dangerous mission in the enemy’s backyard. Artist’s rendering of Major Arthur D. "Nick" Nicholson, Jr, who was killed while conducting intelligence operations with the U.S. Military Liaison Mission (USMLM) in the DDR. One American and one French officer were killed while on tours in the DDR, and several others were badly injured. The photo shows one of my comrades on a tour in East Germany. He was a MACV-SOG (Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group) veteran, had good taste in watches, and was incidentally also the guy who told me to buy a Seiko. I wore the watch everywhere, in training, on jumps, and on all our missions except one. In late 1979, we were put on alert for a mission that would come to be known as Operation Eagle Claw. For that mission, we were all issued olive-green Hamiltons, the watch I wore in the above rehearsal. Det A soldier on a USMLM Tour near the Polish Border wearing a Seiko 6105 and a Waltham (WCC) wrist compass. (Photo Credit: A USMLM Member) Throughout the rest of 1979 and most of 1980, our training was almost completely oriented around direct action operations—the tactics we would need to enter Iran and bring out the American hostages being held there. We were working in concert with another, perhaps more famous unit from Fort Bragg that I won’t mention here other than to say that they outnumbered us 8:1. The “other outfit” had responsibility for freeing over 50 hostages at the American Embassy in Tehran, while our smaller force was to take down the Iranian Foreign Ministry and exfiltrate three senior American diplomats being held there. Hard doesn’t describe the preparation for the mission. But it was intense and it was fun. Day and night Close Quarter Battle (CQB) training, helicopter and vehicle ops, and explosive entries. With no guardrails and an open budget, in a very short time period, our 40-some soldiers used more small-arms ammunition than the yearly allotment for the entire Berlin Brigade. The author wearing his Seiko during CQB training. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) When Eagle Claw went down on the 24th and 25th of April in 1980, only 13 members of “Det A” participated. The rest of us got to sit it out in Berlin, waiting interminably for what turned out very badly when helicopter after helicopter failed and the op was scrubbed. In the withdrawal, eight Americans died, but as a group of British soldiers said, “At least [they] had the guts to try.” For the rest of that year, we rehearsed an up-gunned version of “Eagle Claw” called “Stormcloud” but it was ultimately scrubbed just before Ronald Reagan was inaugurated. I think my GI Hamilton went back to the S-4. The author wearing his General Issue Hamilton at Elgin Air Force Base in 1980. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) Diving wasn’t in the cards much after that, but I was still traveling extensively overseas. One thing I learned was that wearing an expensive watch in “Third World” countries can lead to some undesired attention, not from the authorities, but from the criminal elements. I would often swap out my “good” watch for my field watch when “going downtown.” Losing a simple Timex Expedition was preferable to losing my treasured Seiko. I went through several Expeditions because they made great gifts for admiring locals who might prove helpful at a later point in time. I failed to follow that rule just once and it was curtains for the watch. My Seiko met the end of its days in Somalia when I had the unfortunate experience of being in an Isuzu Trooper when we rolled over a Soviet anti-tank mine. I lost a good friend that day but three of us survived. When I awoke on board the USS Tripoli, I found I had also lost my Seiko. I served a while longer and then punched out with 23 years after I got married. Not too long after that, I was recruited by what we in the military euphemistically called the “Other Government Agency” or OGA. For the next 15 years, I was practicing what some call “God’s Work” doing interesting things in interesting places around the world. The author wearing his Timex Expedition in the Bush. (Photo Credit: WLN) All the while, I admired the upper-echelon watches but couldn’t commit to buying one. Instead, I relied on my Timex Expeditions, which changed as often as I gave them away. That is until one day, my wife gave me a TAG. Officially it’s a TAG Heuer Link WAT1111, and it’s special because it’s the only retirement gift I received—plus it was for my birthday. It’s my “EDC/go-to” watch, although I have a couple of stand-ins for rough duty days. The author’s TAG Heuer Link is now his go-to everyday watch. Once I retired, I moved on to different pastures; consulting a bit, delivering talks to active duty folks on everything from Cold War history to a bit of spook stuff. I still do that but I also have become an author. Now I put my love of history and adventure to good use by telling the true and almost true stories of special operators like T.E. Lawrence of Arabia (who wore an Omega Chronograph, by the way) all the way up to my comrades who participated in Operation Eagle Claw as I do in my history MISSION IRAN. My fiction, or faction as I call it, tells the stories of Special Forces operators during the Cold War and after in my novels The Snake Eater Chronicles. Timing is often critical in these tales and interesting watches come into play quite often. Senator Ted Kennedy speaks with Medal of Honor recipient and then-Major Paris Davis during a visit to Vietnam in the late 1960s. Davis was a Rolex guy. (Photo Credit: Davis Family) The last picture is an important memory for me. One day last year, I was at the National Museum of the U.S. Army with a friend and found one of the displays closed. A docent told me the museum was interviewing a recent Medal of Honor winner, Colonel Paris Davis. I decided to wait until he was finished because Davis had been my commander when I served in the 10th Special Forces Group in the mid-1970s. I wasn’t sure if he’d remember me—I had changed a bit—but as he departed the exhibit hall, I met him with a salute. I told him who I was and a smile appeared on his face as he said my nickname. He had remembered. We had a nice chat and as you can see, he knows what watch to wear. He has his Rolex while I have my TAG. The author reuniting with his commander, Medal of Honor Awardee Colonel Paris Davis, at the National Museum of the US Army. The author wears his TAG Heuer while Colonel Davis wears a Rolex GMT Master. (Photo Credit: R. Pierce Reid) Sometimes, I find myself thinking about my old time-pieces. I’ve considered finding a vintage Seiko 6150 or even a GI-issue watch to replace them, but then I realized they wouldn’t have the same meaning as my originals. The one watch I’m closest to now—and really, the only one I need—is the TAG my wife gifted me. A couple of the author's books, some mementos from his service, and his TAG Heuer watch. (Photo Credit: James Stejskal) About The Author: James Stejskal is a uniquely qualified novelist and historian backed by 35 years of service with US Army Special Forces and the Central Intelligence Agency. He is the author of Special Forces Berlin: Clandestine Cold War Operations of the US Army's Elite, 1956-1990 and Masters of Mayhem: Lawrence of Arabia and the British Military Mission to the Hejaz. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Vietnam MACV-SOG Seikos: Setting the Record Straight *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreDigital Watches Of The Global War On Terror
From G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.)...
Read MoreFrom G-Shock To Garmin, Digital Watches Have Served At The Forefront Of Modern Warfare Whether watch nerds like it or not, digital tool watches (D.T.W.) have usurped their analog and mechanical siblings in the vast majority of military, law enforcement, and intelligence scenarios. Looking beyond the prominent subset of watch enthusiasts in our community who embody the “Use Your Tools” ethos by way of any number of “luxury” timepieces, most regular humans in need of a capable watch look to attainable digital watches from a few prominent brands including G-Shock, Garmin, Suunto, and others For watches associated with the military, no crucible provides better proof of utility than sustained service in combat, with some of history’s most legendary designs influenced by their use in global conflicts. Where the Vietnam War served as a proving ground for legends including the Rolex and Tudor Submariner, certain Seiko models, and the Tornek-Rayville TR-660, modern digital watches in many ways came into their own during the Global War On Terror (GWOT), a period spanning two decades after the terrorist attacks on September 11th, 2001. A US Army Special Forces operator wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan during the GWOT. During combat and intelligence operations in Iraq, Afghanistan, and numerous other theaters, digital tool watches evolved from the basic G-Shock models that were in many respects unchanged from the original 1983 DW-5000C to the full suite of modern tactical and outdoor-oriented smartwatches from brands like Garmin and Suunto. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss some of the most impactful digital watches utilized by SpecOps, military, and intelligence professionals during the Global War On Terror, leaning into photographic evidence, anecdotal examples from members of the community, and records detailing military and government purchase orders. If you’re into LARPing—you know who you are—or just solid digital watches, most of these models are still readily available and impressively inexpensive. Casio F91W - $23 A model we once called “The Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”, the legendary Casio F91W is among the most successful watches of all time, having sold over 120 million units since its debut in 1993, typically for well under $20 a pop. In contrast to many of the watches to follow, the F91W is known for its use on both sides of the GWOT including not only US and coalition forces but also insurgents and terrorists including none other than Usama bin Laden right up until his brief meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. A female TEO operator of Germany’s Kommando Spezialkräfte (KSK) wearing a Casio F91W in 2021. In addition to its use on the wrist, the F91W also served as what is known in national security circles as “dual-use technology,” something that at an initial glance has a legitimate civilian utility but can also be used for military or paramilitary applications, i.e. as a timer for an IED, pipe bomb, or shaped charge. Perhaps held back by its smaller 35.2mm wide by 38.2mm long case, poor backlight, and limited water resistance, the F91W never became a popular option for official military procurement but has still served as the cheapest thing that works, easily purchased at the PX or on the economy by countless service members—and terrorists—over the years. Casio Pro-Trek - $280-500 A USAF Pararescueman of the 23rd Special Tactics Squadron wears a Casio Pro-Trek while conducting in-water training in 2012. Technically unrelated to the G-Shock beyond having the same parent organization in Casio, Pro-Trek also has one of the most impressive service records of any digital watch during the Global War On Terror. Having been selected by countless special operators and conventional troops, the Pro-Trek takes a small step from being just a basic timepiece to something more with integrated “ABC” or altimeter, barometer, and compass functions that—at least in a pinch—assist with way-finding in austere combat situations without requiring Bluetooth or other network connectivity that could compromise the wearer. Retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall wearing a Casio Pro-Trek in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Dave Hall) Despite only being rated to 100 meters of water resistance in most instances, the Pro-Trek was still often the watch of choice for amphibious military members including retired US Navy SEAL Dave Hall who often wore a Pro-Trek on his deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. Digging into government records, Pro-Trek references PAW 1500-1V, PAG240-1, PRW2500-1A, and 130-1T were all purchased through government channels during the GWOT, mostly by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, which is a major testing and supply hub for the broader US Air Force. G-Shock From left to right, the DW5600-1V, DW6600-1V, and DE6900-1V are some of the most commonly purchased G-Shock models by military organizations. There was, as you’d expect, no shortage of G-Shocks used by service members during the GWOT. Dating back to 1983, the G-Shock revolutionized the watch industry by presenting a level of durability that was previously unthinkable for watches. With a basic case concept conceived by iconic Casio designer Kikuo Ibe after seeing a child bouncing a rubber ball, the original parameters for the G-Shock called for “Triple 10” resistance, meaning the watch needed to be able to survive a fall from 10 meters, resist water pressure to 10 atmospheres (100 meters), and provide 10 years of battery life. SOCCOM purchased 1000 units of G-Shock model G9000-1V in 2014 despite the reference’s lack of an NSN. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Catching on with military, law enforcement, and emergency professionals, the G-Shock has evolved over the years to include a wide variety of smartwatch-style functions. Still, while other more complicated G-Shock models have been purchased on a unit basis, only four basic references have been awarded an NSN or NATO Stock Number, making them readily available for military procurement and issue. All four also saw active service during the GWOT, as did non-NSN models including the Mudman (G9000-1V), which was ordered by the United States Special Operations Command (USSOCOM) in 2014 in separate orders of 400 and 600 units. DW5600-1V - $75 A USAF Combat Controller wearing a DW5600-1V in Afghanistan. A direct descendant of the original G-Shock, the DW5000C, the DW5600-1V was introduced in 1996. Often the least expensive G-Shock on the market at around $40, the 5600 provides one of the smallest and least obtrusive wearing experiences of any Shock, coming in at 48.9 by 42.8mm wide by 48.9mm long by 13.4mm thick. Given its entry-level price point, the suite of functions is simple by modern digital standards but does provide just about everything the basic military member could ever need while also offering G-Shock’s legendary durability. In the GWOT’s early years, this was the most commonly spotted watch on members of the military and intelligence services, even playing a role in CIA’s early anti-terror efforts in Afghanistan. DW6600-1V - Discontinued A young Chris Kyle on deployment wearing the Casio G-Shock DW6600-1V. Commonly associated with Chris Kyle, the US Navy SEAL who inspired 2014’s American Sniper, the DW6600-1V will always be considered the GWOT Navy SEAL watch. Beyond the utility, the DW6600 also became part of Team Guy culture. According to former SEAL Rob Huberty, “One of my proudest days at BUDS was when I went from a naked wrist to an issued G-Shock. In SEAL training, you aren’t allowed to wear a watch until you earn it. We weren’t allowed to wear our uniforms in town, but when I saw Team Guys in Coronado, their sleeve tattoos and G-Shocks were a dead giveaway.” Former US Navy SEAL, Harvard-educated medical doctor, and current astronaut Jonny Kim wearing a DW6600-1V on deployment in Iraq. From a use-case perspective, the DW6600-1V was a near-perfect choice for the SEALs, with the watch’s stopwatch feature working as a dive timer, a powerful backlight with a large button, and more durability than most could ever need. Some even say the little fin-shaped indices on the display could be used to time fin kicks during underwater navigational scenarios. Surprisingly, the classic version of the DW6600-1V has been discontinued since 2010, with Naval Special Warfare Command placing what was likely its final order for this specific reference in 2009 referencing a SEAL Qualification Training (SQT) supply list. The similarly styled DW6900-1V has largely taken its place, but we would argue a reissue is in order. DW6900-1V - $85 A DW6900-1V in its military-specific packaging shows the NSN for “Watch, Wrist” at the top. (Photo Credit: Reddit) The successor to the DW6600, the 6900-series swapped the fin-shaped elements on its display for a trio of tiny circles visually indicating the passing seconds while maintaining the proven case and strap format. Another commonly purchased item across the US Military, the basic DW6900 now seems to be one of the defacto purchase orders for any unit or organization looking for a solid digital watch including members of the SpecOps community. A USAF Pararescuemen wears a DW6900-1V in 2015. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) DW9052-1V - $75 A Force Recon Marine wearing a DW9052-1V in 2013. (Photo Credit: US Marine Corps) A G-Shock more commonly spotted during the second half of the GWOT is the DW9052-1V, which provides several key differences compared to the aforementioned models. For one, the 9052 utilizes larger square plastic buttons that are significantly easier to operate with gloves while also having hinged lugs more like a traditional watch, meaning the interface between the case and strap isn’t as stiff as other G-Shocks. Like the 6600 and 6900, the 9052 provides an easily accessed front light button. Despite being initially launched in 1995 and relaunched in 2011, the 9052 series does not appear to have found widespread military use until the tail end of the GWOT on terror, now being commonly spotted on the wrist of select military divers in particular, which stands to reason as the 9052 was a standard issue gear item for students attending a variety of diving courses at the Naval Diving and Salvage Training Center (NDSTC) for years. For a complete look at the US Military’s history with G-Shock, click HERE. Other Brands: Beneath the long shadow cast by Casio and the G-Shock collection in particular, several other brands made inroads into the digital tool watch space during the GWOT, first with brands like Timex and Suunto and later with Garmin as smartwatches entered the tactical fold. Timex Ironman Classic - $63 The humble Timex Ironman was issued by CIA to partner forces during the GWOT. Often playing second fiddle to celebrated G-Shock models, the Timex Ironman deserves its place in any discussion of digital timing during the GWOT, having been used not only by conventional military forces but also by US intelligence agencies, including CIA, which issued the Ironman to Afghan partner forces. Dating back to 1984 and the Timex Triathlon, the Ironman name was officially introduced in 1986 after Timex obtained the rights to the growing Ironman franchise. Designed to be rugged enough for swimming, biking, and running in the ridiculous sport of Ironman-distance triathlons, the Timex Ironman found its place among military and NatSec circles by virtue of its attainable price point, legible display, useful timing functions, and stout build. Former US Navy SEAL Jocko Willink is known for wearing Timex Ironman watches before, during, and after the GWOT. We have spotted Ironman watches on the wrists of US Navy SEALs and other members of the SpecOps community including former SEAL Jocko Willink who wore a Timex Ironman before and during the GWOT and continues to wear the humble digital watch despite his success as an author, podcaster, and leadership guru. We assume Jocko thinks the watch is “GOOD”. Suunto Vector - Discontinued A US Army soldier calls in an airstrike while wearing a Suunto Vector in Afghanistan in 2009. (Photo Credit: US Army) Another outdoors-oriented watch with ABC functionality that saw no shortage of action in Iraq and Afghanistan was the Suunto Vector, which was produced between 1998 and 2015 almost without change, a testament to the original design. With an Achilles heel of only 30 meters of water resistance, the Vector was still a great choice for urban and desert warfare, with its integrated altimeter being especially useful for mountain operations. Recognizing the trend, Suunto, a Finland-based brand, leaned into the watch’s popularity among US military members, creating an olive green variant that nails the early 2000s “tacticool” look on the head. Multiple orders for the Vector were placed by Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in 2014 and 2015, with another interesting order coming from the FBI in 2021 (Presumably for SWAT Teams). Suunto Core Classic - $219 A US Navy SEAL wearing a Suunto Core on deployment. Where the Suunto Vector was in all ways intended as a mountaineering watch for REI nerds that grew to become a military favorite, it felt like Suunto knew what they were doing when they introduced the Core in 2007. While the new watch still technically only provided 30 meters of water resistance, Suunto obviously felt strongly enough about the watch’s amphibious ability to engineer a depth gauge function in addition to the standard ABC capabilities the brand is known for. Intriguingly, the depth gauge was only rated to 33 feet (10 meters), which happens to be the maximum operating depth of a pure oxygen rebreather such as the LAR V used by US Navy SEALs. A coincidence? Perhaps, but conspiracy theories are a lot more fun. What is for sure is the Core’s appeal among SpecOps units, with multiple orders placed for the model by Air Force Special Operations Command (AFSOC) and USSOCOM starting in 2010. 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium - Discontinued A young Chris Craighead wearing the seldom-seen 5.11 H.R.T. Titanium watch. (Photo Credit: Chris Craighead) Despite making a bunch of quality tactical gear, 5.11 is not known for its watches. That said, the analog-digital HRT model did have its day during the Global War On Terror, even issued to and worn by “Obi-Wan Nairobi” AKA Chris Craighead who wore the watch on deployment in his SAS days (but not his famed single-handed efforts in Kenya). That said, from what we can tell, 5.11’s watches were not formally purchased by the US Government and they aren’t commonly spotted in our research, which also indicates the watches did not obtain the reputation for durability possessed by G-Shock and other names on this list. Garmin A US Navy SEAL conducts training with a Garmin Fenix on the wrist. (Photo Credit: US Navy) When it comes to modern military watches, the new elephant in the room is Garmin, though the brand is not without its complications when it comes to modern warfare. Garmin also has a long-standing history with the US Military, having provided a wide variety of GPS-related equipment throughout the GWOT and today. An evolution of the “smartwatch” genre kicked off by Apple’s Apple Watch in 2015, Garmin’s outdoors and tactical-oriented collection of watches provides more functionality than a Timex or G-Shock could ever dream of, including active heart rate monitoring, GPS, an incredible array of sport and fitness specific functions, and in some cases, even parachuting and ballistics-specific capabilities. The suite of tech is no doubt compelling, but also Bluetooth or otherwise “connected” watches run the risk of being utilized to track or monitor troops in a theater of war or intelligence officers. Still, Garmin’s fitness and tactical smartwatches have been widely ordered through government channels over the last 10 years or so including much of the end of the GWOT. Garmin Instinct - $300-500 Pictured on an Indian Marine Commando Force (MARCOS) operator during training with an East Coast-based SEAL Team, the Garmin Instinct has become popular with military members around the world since its inception in the closing years of the GWOT. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Now in its second iteration, the Instinct, originally released in 2018, is where Garmin’s GPS-enabled smartwatch collection kicks off. The case, strap, user interface, and display are simpler compared to more premium models, but you still get GPS capabilities that sync with multiple satellite systems, all of the ABC functions you could ever want, solar charging on some models, and apps for sports, with the watch also conforming to the 810 Military Standard for shock and water resistance. While it was only around at the tail end of the GWOT and does not appear to have been purchased en masse through official channels, the Instinct often appears on the wrist of military members during the final years of the conflict. Garmin Fenix - $640-1,000 A Garmin Fenix on the wrist of a US Air Force Pararescueman in 2019. (Photo Credit: US Air Force) The most widely purchased wrist-worn Garmin during the GWOT and now in its seventh iteration, the Fenix was launched in 2012 as an outdoors smartwatch with an impressive array of fitness functions in addition to GPS capabilities. A search of government records reveals dozens of orders for Garmin Fenix models starting with an AFSOC order in 2015 with continuous follow-up orders from the Air Force’s SpecOps community ever since. Further orders for Fenix models have come from the US Army’s Air Combat Command, 855th Aircraft Maintenance Squadron, and the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA). Beyond these official orders, many other small-scale orders were likely placed through civilian channels with government funds. Garmin Tactix - $1,000-1,600 A US Navy SEAL wears a Garmin Fenix or Tactix during training operations. (Photo Credit: US Navy) Essentially a special version of the Fenix, the Garmin Tactix takes the GPS and fitness functions and adds features specific to use in tactical or military environments including a display mode intended for use with night vision, ballistics calculators, and a jumpmaster mode for parachuting. As you’d expect, the Tactix is popular among military organizations, having been ordered by AFSOC as early as 2015, certain US Marine Corps units including Marine Corps Air Station Cherry Point, and the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) over the years. Whether Digital Or Analog, Use Your Tools Whether we like it or not, most modern operators trust digital tool watches—even Apple Watches—over Swiss luxury brands. While we often profile Intelligence Officers and Special Operators wearing Seikos and fine Swiss timepieces, the fact is that the majority of practitioners leverage DTWs to complete their tasks. From G-Shock to Suunto to Timex to Garmin or even the Apple Watch, digital watches served as tools on every front of the Global War On Terror, the most impactful global conflict in modern times, evolving along the way to include smartwatch-style capabilities that, while challenging in some respects, provide a modern soldier or intelligence asset with an unprecedented level of technical capability. As watch enthusiasts, we would perhaps like to see more analog mechanical watches on the wrists of modern military members. Still, in many cases, digital watches are simply a better tool for the job. Whether you’re wearing an Omega Seamaster or a Casio F91W, as long as you live the “Use Your Tools” ethos, we’re here for you. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: DARPA’s Take on the Next Generation of Military Watches
Read MoreThe Dive Watch - Everything You Need To Know
Going In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one...
Read MoreGoing In-Depth With History’s Most Popular & Impactful Tool Watch Despite the relative lack of popularity of scuba diving, the dive watch prevails as one of the most popular categories in watchmaking while also claiming several of history’s most recognizable designs including the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Watches intended for diving have also been worn by a variety of sketchy individuals at the forefront of history-shaping events including the pioneering Panerai models utilized by the commando frogmen of the Italian Decima Flottiglia MAS in WWII, Doxa Subs on the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and his team as they pioneered underwater filmmaking, and even a modern Rolex Submariner worn by a US Navy SEAL on the raid that killed Usama bin Laden back in 2011. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) What Is A Dive Watch? With all of that being said, we all have a general idea of what a dive watch is and does, but what exactly constitutes a dive watch? Which functions, formats, or capabilities are essential, and which are marketing fluff? In this Dispatch, backed by my experience as a commercial diver and professional watch nerd, we’ll go in-depth with the anatomy of a dive watch, presenting the key elements that add up to a competent dive timer whether or not you intend to use the watch for its intended purpose. An elapsed time bezel is also great for grilling steaks. What Is Water Resistance? In 2019, a custom Omega Ultra Deep descended to Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point, strapped to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible, Limiting Factor. (Photo Credit: Omega) Let’s get the obvious out of the way. A dive watch is only as good as its ability to resist the sometimes massive pressures and constant risk of flooding encountered in the undersea environment. Most dive watches achieve their water resistance with screwed sealing surfaces and gaskets which are necessary because the pressure at depth can be enormous. For every foot of depth encountered by a watch in seawater, .445 pounds of pressure is applied per square inch. Divers are historically bad at math so the equation for calculating pressure on the fly is typically expressed as “half the depth” meaning that if you’re diving to a relatively pedestrian 100 feet, your watch will encounter approximately 50 (or exactly 44.5) pounds per square inch of pressure, enough to make the water really want to get inside your watch. The deeper you go, the tougher it gets for your watch’s tender insides to stay dry. Therefore, the vast majority of watches intended for diving are rated to at least 200 meters, but many are rated to more extreme depths including 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea or an even more obnoxious 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) for the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A 100-meter-rated watch like the Casio AE1200WH World Time is typically fine for casual scuba diving. (Photo Credit: Benjamin Lowry) Can I Wear My Watch Underwater? While we’re here, let’s quickly dispel a couple of common myths. I wouldn’t take a 30 or 50-meter-rated watch diving on purpose, but a watch rated to 100 meters is often fine for casual scuba diving assuming it’s relatively new and/or has been pressure tested recently. As a disclaimer, there is still an element of risk. 100 meters is a rating, not a promise of a watch's ability to dive to that depth, and the majority of 100-meter-rated watches haven't been tested in water during production. That said, modern watches are generally more capable than you'd think, and I’ve worn several 100-meter watches including the Seiko 5 Sports SSK001 and Casio AE1200WH for shallow diving profiles without issues. For what it’s worth, the ISO 6425 standard for a “professional” dive watch that we’ll get to in a bit only requires 100 meters of water resistance. In most cases, 200 meters of water resistance is more than you could ever need. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) For whoever is already typing something in all caps about “dynamic” pressure saying you need a watch rated to 200 meters to go to the pool because more pressure is applied as you move your arm and watch through the water, stop. It is technically true that a watch in motion underwater experiences more pressure than it would if it were static, but many nerds who are good at math have calculated the change as minute, the equivalent of a fraction of a foot to a few feet of depth in many instances, and functionally insignificant as it relates to the water resistance rating of your watch. Measuring Elapsed Time (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Another crucial element of any good dive watch is its ability to manage elapsed time, a function typically utilized to track “bottom time” (defined by the US Navy as the elapsed time from when you leave the surface until you begin your ascent) but also shorter periods including safety or decompression stops. In the days before diving computers, this capability was the single most important job carried out by the dive watch, with the bottom time being used in conjunction with a diver’s maximum depth in calculating a diver’s decompression profile. Today, this important work is usually carried out by a diving computer, but being able to measure elapsed time is still a core aspect of what constitutes a dive watch. Typically, managing elapsed time is carried out with a rotating bezel measuring from zero to 60 minutes that is typically unidirectional, meaning it can only be accidentally rotated to express less bottom time as opposed to more, which could land a diver in proverbial hot water concerning their gas supply or profile. In many cases, dive bezels are also marked with finer one-minute intervals for the first fifteen minutes. You’ll hear different theories as to why, but I have always understood it was to precisely measure smaller amounts of time whether for decompression stops or individual legs of underwater swims in navigation scenarios. A U.S. Navy Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) Technician wearing a G-Shock DW6900. (Photo Credit: US Navy) To be clear, elapsed time measurement by no means needs to take place by way of an external bezel. Still standard issue for US Navy Divers and amphibious special operators, a G-Shock’s stopwatch function is amazing for this task, as are certain internal bezels as long as they don’t utilize a screw-down crown in their operation. Diving chronographs can also be used, but the additional pushers often increase the potential water ingress and wouldn’t be my first choice. There are exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking, fewer case openings in your dive watch is a good thing. Legibility For great dive watch dials less is often more. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) After water resistance and being able to track elapsed time, another central pillar in any good dive watch design is a dial and handset that is legible in all conditions including total darkness. For the dial and hands, high contrast and simple geometric shapes seem to work best. Examples like the Rolex Submariner, Seiko 6309, Benrus Type I, Tudor Snowflake, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms all have designs that have stood the test of time utilizing white luminescent indices and hands in simple geometric forms over a black or navy blue primary dial surface. The best dive watch dials are equally visible day or night. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In the arena of legibility, being straightforward and even leaning into minimalism is a good thing. Lasting bright luminescent material is also important as is the ability to quickly orient the dial in total darkness or murky underwater environments. Having luminescent material on the bezel at least at twelve but preferably also elsewhere is also key as the importance of measuring elapsed time doesn’t disappear in the dark. Despite breaking some of the design guidelines listed here, some dial designs just work. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) There are exceptions to the monochromatic less-is-more rule including the orange “Professional” dial on Doxa Sub models as well as the busier display on the Marathon GSAR, both of which are excellent and highly legible underwater, but the concepts of simple geometric forms and high contrast are great places to start. For further proof of capability, always look to military dive watch designs for a trustworthy indicator of subsea utility. Military supply officers don’t care how cool you look at Red Bar, they just want the cheapest thing that will get the job done. Straps & Bracelets (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) While it may seem secondary compared to the watch itself, any great dive watch is only as good as its ability to stay on the wrist. To start, the idea that any dive watch not secured by a pull-through strap is destined for total loss following spring bar failure is overblown, but straightforward nylon straps do provide an additional measure of security while also being inexpensive and convenient for use over a wide range of different exposure suits. After pull-through straps, I would argue a bracelet with solid end links is the next most secure method of attachment but here, we have to take into consideration the potential need for or quality of the clasp or extension system required to fit over your diving suit of choice. Rolex’s Glidelock and Tudor’s T-Fit are among the most refined, but more attainable folding extensions from brands like Seiko get the job done just as well. Many rubber straps are also great but are at least theoretically less secure compared to the aforementioned options. For the ultimate in security, it’s tough to beat fixed lugs and a nylon pull-through strap. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Different types of spring bars and lug formats also make a difference where security is concerned. Watches like the Tudor Pelagos FXD or CWC’s collection of military watches utilize fixed lug bars that add a heightened level of peace of mind. If your watch has drilled lugs, you can use shoulderless spring bars that also decrease the likelihood of an underwater “oh shit” moment no matter what type of strap is being used. In any case, the decision about what kind of strap to pair with your dive watch should be taken almost as seriously as the watch itself, as it’s mighty hard to tell the time on a watch that’s rapidly sinking away from you into the ocean’s murky depths. ISO 6425 Standard The ISO 6425-rated Citizen Aqualand on a recent dive in Lake Michigan. (Photo Credit: Matt Ludvigson) It’s not a be-all-end-all, but it’s important to also recognize the ISO 6425 standard, a benchmark for dive watches and an informative set of specifications and testing procedures laid out by the International Organization for Standardization starting in 1982. At its core, ISO 6425 describes, “…watches designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness.” While that sounds simple enough, the complete standard is incredibly long and detailed, covering everything from pressure testing to shock resistance to legibility in the dark to corrosion and magnetic field resistance. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Many dive watches from brands like Seiko and Citizen closely conform to this standard but many others—from the luxury tier especially—do not, and here I’m talking about many of the original gangsters including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster and more modern legends like the Tudor Pelagos FXD. With that in mind, we should never limit our search for the perfect dive timer to timepieces claiming certification or compliance with the ISO standard. Helium Escape Valves (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) One of the most misunderstood watch functions of all time, the concept of the helium escape valve is often thrown around in the professional dive watch conversation. In the briefest terms, a helium escape (or release) valve allows expanding helium atoms that have—because they are super tiny—sneaked past the gaskets in a watch case over the course of an extended period spent living in a dry, helium-rich saturation diving chamber to safely escape during the days-long decompression process without making the watch explode. Unlike many dive watch features, the helium escape valve does its thing in the dry. (Photo Credit: Gavan Hennigan) There are automatic valves like you find with the Rolex Sea-Dweller and manual valves like in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. Both work more or less like a burp. As internal pressure within the watch case increases while external pressure, in the decompressing saturation system, decreases, the valve actuates, allowing the watch to equalize with its surroundings. If you are a commercial saturation diver who needs this functionality, you are most likely already aware. The rest of you do not and will not ever need such a valve no matter how extreme your scuba diving adventures at Sandals resort may become. Final Thoughts There are, of course, other aspects of dive watches that are important including a generally stout and durable build and a robust movement that can handle the knocks and bangs associated with diving and dive boats. That said, for this Dispatch, we decided to concentrate on the traits that are more specific to watches produced for the undersea environment. To summarize, we’re talking about appropriate water resistance, a method of measuring elapsed time, legibility in all conditions, and a strap or bracelet that will keep your dive watch right where it belongs. You don’t need one, but we also highlighted the helium escape valve’s incredibly rare but important work. If dive watches can survive a wide range of underwater hazards, chances are they can take on your daily life. (Photo Credit: Brock Stevens) Whether you intend to go diving or not, it’s important to understand the reasoning behind the basic dive design format that has become one of the most recognizable and popular watch silhouettes in horological history. Scuba diving remains relatively unpopular, but dive watches have transcended their intended use case and category to become the most popular overall sports watch type in part because of the capabilities they developed over decades on the wrists of military, professional, and recreational divers. And hey, even if you’re not going diving anytime soon, the bezel is great for timing whatever you have on the Big Green Egg in the backyard. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreElliot Brown & The Special Boat Service
How A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most...
Read MoreHow A British Independent Watch Brand Created The Latest SBS Issue Watch The list of modern military-issued analog watches is short. The fact is, most forces have understandably transitioned to digital tool watches, arguably a more effective tool for modern warfare. That said, they do exist and one of the most interesting and least understood is the Elliot Brown Holton Professional. The Holton was designed from the ground up in partnership with and is currently issued to the British Special Boat Service (SBS), the United Kingdom’s “tier one” maritime special operations force unit, a loose equivalent to SEAL Team Six. Many of the stories we tell revolve around “unit watches” or private purchases used during an individual operator's career. This is the story of a purpose-built tool watch designed to satisfy a specific operational requirement. But it is also the story of the SBS’s culture and the role watches play. When newly badged operators arrive at Poole, the headquarters of the British Special Boat Service, they receive a green beret with the SBS insignia, a belt, a hardcover book on the history of their unit, and the standard-issue Elliot Brown Holton Professional. These are just things but are also intended to represent the accomplishment of each individual operator and honor the legacy of those who came before. The watch is a tool and the latest timepiece issued to the storied unit. Elliot Brown & The Holton Professional In the coastal city of Poole, England, we find Elliot Brown, a nascent brand producing a range of mostly tool watches including the Holton Professional. Despite the potentially massive marketing upside in celebrating the relationship between the Holton and the SBS, Elliot Brown doesn’t mention “The Service” by name, instead adopting the quiet professional approach of the operators who wear the Holton in performing their duties. In this Dispatch, we’ll shine a light on Elliot Brown and tell the story behind the development of the Holton Professional. RM Poole, the home base for the SBS, is conveniently located near the boatyard Elliot Brown calls home. Far from its current military associations, Elliot Brown was founded in 2013 as the brainchild of Ian Elliot and Alex Brown. At its outset, the brand’s goal was to produce durable, relatively inexpensive watches designed around the founders’ collective experience in outdoor sports, watch enthusiasm, and engineering. Location was important as well. Headquartered in a working boat yard near Poole Harbour on England’s south coast, Elliot Brown neighbors RM Poole, the home of the Special Boat Service. Among the world’s most elite maritime SpecOps units, the SBS also has an impressive history when it comes to horology. A Brief History Of The Special Boat Service & Watches Sergeant Paul “Scruff” McGough of the British SBS wearing an issued Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS during the battle for Qala-I Jangi Prison on 27 November 2001. (Photo Credit: First Casualty, Toby Harnden) With roots dating back to the Second World War including no shortage of heroic assaults on Axis shipping by way of specialized folding canoes called “folbots”, today’s SBS is a modern maritime assault force specializing in counterterrorism. Trained in diving, small boats, reconnaissance, parachuting, small unit tactics, explosives, and sabotage, the SBS serves as the Ministry of Defense’s equivalent to SEAL Team Six. For the watch enthusiast, the SBS is also closely linked to some of history’s most legendary dive watches including the Rolex Military Submariner or MilSub which was issued to British forces including the SBS starting in 1971. In 1980, CWC took over, first with an automatic and then quartz versions of its Royal Navy Diver, a far less expensive option compared to the Rolex Submariners that had a nasty habit of going “missing”. The Special Boat Service has impressive horological associations, having used the Rolex MilSub in the 1970s and CWC models including the SBS in the decades to follow. Photo Credit: Bonhams (Rolex) and James Rupley (CWC) In 1987, supposedly stemming from a special request from the Special Boat Service, CWC introduced its SBS, a blacked-out version of the RN Diver to reduce reflections for nighttime and maritime operations. CWC’s SBS is still issued to certain specialist diving units within the Ministry of Defense and worn by members of the Special Boat Service, however many have now transitioned to the standard issue Elliot Brown. A New British Watch Brand & One Of The World’s Premier Special Forces Units Former SBS operator and celebrated mountaineer Nims Purja MBE wearing a digital tool watch during training operations. (Photo Credit: Nirmal Purja MBE) When Elliot Brown launched in 2013 at the London Watch Show, the brand’s earliest models were capable but provided more of a civilian aesthetic. At the time, Special Boat Service operators wore a variety of digital and analog watches including CWC, early Suunto GPS watches, and the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock. Despite the utility offered by Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.), SBS regulations specifically state an analog dive watch must be worn for all diving operations, with a diving supervisor individually checking each operator’s watch before they can enter the water. Of note, the analog watches are worn in combination with a dive computer. The SBSA Canford inspired the development of the Holton Professional. (Photo Credit: Elliot Brown) After creating a special version of its Canford model to raise funds for the Special Boat Service Association (SBSA), several active members of the unit began using the commemorative watch on actual operations. Wondering what might be possible with a watch designed from the ground up for the operators, a development process officially began for the watch that would become the Holton Professional in 2015. Specifically, the unit requested a watch that was indestructible and visible at night and in low light conditions underwater, with a rotating bezel that could easily be operated with all manner of gloved hands. Founders Alex and Ian worked closely with the unit, producing multiple rounds of prototypes that were each individually tested by various SBS squadrons. Specifically, the brand engineered a recessed four-o’clock crown with three seals, single-sided screw lug bars for ease of use and durability, and a novel bezel edge with an almost hobnail-like texture that was intended to be rotated with the palm of a gloved hand. The bezel insert was filled with luminescent material and made from hardened steel as opposed to aluminum on the CWC SBS, with Super-LumiNova also being utilized across the dial and hands. Tritium tubes were also considered but ultimately ruled out because they light up under night vision whereas printed luminescent material does not. Delivered to the unit on a fitted rubber strap, the watches also included a traditional nylon “Zulu” strap intended to work with the thick drysuits utilized by the divers in cooler waters. The dial design was straightforward and incorporated “sword” hands, a familiar trait from other British military dive watches. At 6 o’clock on the dial is a “broad arrow,” denoting it as official property of the MOD as a military-issued watch. Civilian versions, which are almost identical to issued examples, also have the broad arrow insignia. An Elliot Brown Holton Professional alongside a Rolex Submariner. (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Once the operators were happy with the design, the challenge of guiding the new watches through official channels into the hands of the operators began in earnest. First came the NSN or Nato Stock Number, issued to items in compliance with specific regulations for particular pieces of equipment including dive watches. Obtaining an NSN can be daunting, but the presence of an NSN doesn’t necessarily mean an item is officially issued but rather simply that it could be issued. For the Ministry of Defense, an item must be obtained by a unit through an approved intermediary supplier rather than the brand, just as CWC is supplied to the MoD through a supplier called Silvermans. With multiple layers of bureaucracy managed, the initial batch of the Holton Professional was delivered to the SBS in late 2017, first to Sabre Squadrons tasked with counterterrorism and then to other units in turn. While they are otherwise identical to civilian versions of the Holton, issued examples have a unique crown. Elliot Brown’s “Unit Watch” Program An Elliot Brown “unit watch” produced for a particular Special Air Service (SAS) squadron. (Photo Credit: Former SAS Melvyn Downes) In addition to the Holton Professional’s official connection to the SBS, Elliot Brown has also become a supplier of commemorative “unit watches” for various other military and civilian organizations including the SAS (pictured above), UK Counter Terrorism Police, the Royal Navy Submarine Service, and others. Rather than being issued and paid for with government funds, these watches are modified versions of existing designs within the brand’s catalog that are available for private purchase for vetted members of the organization. We have covered other brands known for producing “unit watches” including Tudor, OMEGA, Breitling, Bremont, and Christopher Ward, but it’s always nice to see a smaller brand getting into the space, especially with a price point that presents a less daunting boundary compared to traditional luxury brands. The Military-Issue Analog Dive Watch - Last Of A Dying Breed As we’ve established in many instances on the Dispatch, there is an established community within Intelligence, NatSec, and SpecOps with a passion for horology. That said, instances where government organizations deem it appropriate to spend taxpayer dollars on analog watches are becoming fewer and farther between, increasingly usurped by cheaper, more feature-rich digital options. Still, holdouts including Elliot Brown’s active issue to the Special Boat Service and Marathon’s use by various US SpecOps units prove the analog dive watch remains relevant today. The story of the Holton, a Tier One unit approaching a smaller watch brand with a list of requests that ends up becoming an issued watch, is rare, but the utility behind wearing watches for their intended purpose sentiment isn’t. The “Use Your Tools” ethos is alive and well. Typically, in an article like this one, we’d share “action shots” of members of the unit in question wearing the watches in question. However, in stark contrast to many US SpecOps units, the SBS remains incredibly secretive, meaning such photographs are essentially nonexistent. With that in mind, with operational security in mind, we’ve used either photos released by former members of the unit who are now in the public eye or photographs taken with unit members and approved for wider distribution. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreCulture
W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 2 - CIA & Traditional Espionage
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is somewhat outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends about their favorite books on the CIA and the world of intelligence to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. This is the second list focused on CIA, traditional espionage, and foreign intelligence collection. For the first installment looking at books covering the Global War On Terror, see HERE. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. Modern Intelligence Collection In Books The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service, Henry A. Crumpton From serving in the pre-digital age in Africa to helping coordinate the CIA’s Predator drone programs, Henry A. Crumpton’s career in intelligence is carefully chronicled in The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service. While much has changed, Crumpton also underlines the basic tradecraft principles that have stood the test of time. This is a great primer on the world of intelligence and life as a C/O at the CIA, absent much of the bravado common in CIA memoirs. The Good Spy: The Life and Death of Robert Ames, Kai Bird A legend in the intelligence community, Robert Ames was credited with helping to heal the rift between Arabs and the West before he was killed in a bombing on the American embassy in Beirut in 1983. Intriguingly, Bird is a journalist who knew Ames as a child, and crafted this book from his firsthand experience with Ames as well as countless interviews with global intelligence professionals. Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters After the attacks on 9/11, the CIA received over 150,000 applications from Americans wanting to join the Global War On Terror’s espionage effort. Around 100 students were selected for Class 11, the first CIA training course convened after the darkest day in modern American history. In Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters, a Class 11 graduate, shares an insider view of a new generation of CIA Case Officers preparing for war. Of note, some inside CIA will roll their eyes at this recommendation, but it is the best insight I have seen on the training pipeline and specifically the long course at “The Farm.” Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda, Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton, & Henry R. Schlesinger Juxtaposed against the Cold War, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and evolving terrorist threats, Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda is a never-before-seen look at the technology that makes espionage possible. Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson Intelligence collection is a morally ambiguous trade. In Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson, a CIA veteran, tackles the challenging moral and ethical challenges facing the modern intelligence community. Describing a lack of firm guidance from the Agency on what constitutes inappropriate tradecraft, Olson illustrates how that uncertainty hampers Case Officers in the field, making an already complicated and dangerous job even more perilous. I read this book while at CIA and found it thought-provoking and a must-read for anyone in the community. Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior, Ric Prado After fleeing war-torn Cuba as a child, Ric Prado served with US Air Force Pararescue before joining CIA and rising through the ranks of the CIA over a 24-year career. Having served in Central Asia, Peru, the Philippines, Korea, and numerous other classified locations, Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior is Prado’s memoir of a life lived in the shadows. Prado also has several notable watches including the Blackwater Emergency and a Tudor Submariner. The Targeter, Nada Bakos Targeters are one of the most important and least understood career tracks at CIA, and this book provides some great insight. Joining the Agency as an analyst, Nada Bakos rose to the rank of Targeting Officer, playing a central role in unraveling the connections between 9/11 and Al Qaeda during the Global War On Terror. The Targeter is a powerful firsthand account of one woman’s story of selfless sacrifice and the incredible work being done by professionals within the intelligence community. The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, David Priess Every day, the President of the United States is handed a daily brief (PDB) summarizing important intelligence-related issues and events as well as potential threats to the United States. David Priess’s volume, The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, tells the history of what some call “The Book” and its influence on national security and geopolitics. Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, Michael V. Hayden In Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, General Michael V. Hayden shares his experiences as the former leader of both the NSA and CIA, saying, “I bear no grudges, or at least not many, but I do want this to be a straightforward and readable history for that slice of the American population who depend on and appreciate intelligence, but who do not have the time to master its many obscure characteristics." This is a great primer on the intelligence community at various levels and deals with some of the issues related to the future of the IC. The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives, Ted Gup Ted Gup’s chilling and well-researched The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives tackles the often untold stories of the people behind the 71 stars carved into a marble wall at CIA HQS, each representing an intelligence professional who lost their life in the line of duty. Many of these stories may be still classified, but I will note it was required reading for new recruits at CIA. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw, Mark Bowden Mark Bowden, a legendary journalist and the author of Black Hawk Down, chronicles the violent rise to power and fall of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most legendary drug kingpin, in Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw. Beirut Rules: The Murder of a CIA Station Chief and Hezbollah's War Against America, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz In Beirut Rules, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz unpack Hezbollah’s war against America in the 1980s and the terror organization’s ultimately successful quest to kill William Buckley, a CIA Case Officer assigned to Beirut after the 1983 bombing of the American embassy in Lebanon that killed Robert Ames. The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, Douglas London In Douglas London’s The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, the 34-year veteran of the CIA describes his experience working in American intelligence both before and after 9/11, calling into question how the Agency has adapted and how it must continue to evolve. A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA, Duane R. Clarridge (Author) & Digby Diehl Another memoir from a seasoned CIA Case Officer, Duane R. Clarridge’s A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA is a behind-the-scenes account of the state of American intelligence from the point of view of the former Deputy Director of the CIA. The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture, Ishmael Jones The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture is author Ishmael Jones’ plea for reform within the Agency, specifically citing intelligence shortfalls and other missteps caused by the culture of the world of intelligence. This book is highly critical of CIA, which is actually a good thing. If you are truly interested in learning about the organization, it's important to read positive and negative takes to get a full picture. Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China, David Wise Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China tells the story of China’s unseen espionage war against the United States, much of it perpetrated while American attention was focused on the Soviet Union. From double agents to cybersecurity, author David Wise paints a picture of a Chinese intelligence machine that is not to be underestimated. David Wise has some other great books on espionage including Spy- The Inside Story of How the FBI's Robert Hanssen Betrayed America. The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA, Liza Mundy Historically a male-dominated field, The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA tells the story of the incredible contributions made by women to the world of intelligence and national security. Of note, some of the best officers I worked with were women and this book tells some of their stories. Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History, Antonio Mendez & Matt Baglio A more in-depth look at the real-life story that inspired 2012’s Argo film starring Ben Affleck, Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History is CIA Technical Officer Tony Mendez’s account of his role in smuggling six American hostages out of Tehran in 1979. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, Jack Devine & Vernon Loeb With over 30 years in the business of United States intelligence, Jack Devine finished his career overseeing the Directorate of Operations. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, is Devine’s overarching guide to the concept of spycraft, the combined set of tactics, techniques, and procedures utilized by CIA and other intelligence agencies. Inside the CIA, Ronald Kessler Ronald Kessler’s Inside the CIA is a rare officially sanctioned look inside America’s intelligence service, focusing on the Agency’s organization, mission, and accomplishments. If you’re looking for a primer on what the CIA is and how it operates, this book is an excellent place to start. Transforming U.S. Intelligence, Jennifer E Sims & Burton Gerber (Editors) Transforming U.S. Intelligence is an almost scholarly work assembling the insights of numerous contributors with firsthand experience in the world of intelligence. Based on learnings from the missing weapons of mass destruction in Iraq and critical missteps in the lead-up to 9/11, this book aims to describe how United States intelligence can learn from its shortfalls to be more effective in an uncertain future. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, J.K. Rowling Early in my career at CIA, I focused solely on nonfiction thinking that fiction was a waste of time. That said, many intelligence and NatSec failures boil down to a failure of imagination. Feeding your brain with fiction like Harry Potter is a great way to teach yourself to think outside the box. The More You Know Separating fact from fiction when it comes to the CIA is challenging, with so much public perception around the world of espionage being inspired by Hollywood’s portrayals of Jason Bourne or James Bond. Targeted strikes, covert action, and high-stakes clandestine meetings do happen, and many are described within these volumes, but the realities facing intelligence professionals are often more subtle, nuanced, and intriguing. While this is not an exhaustive list, these titles represent an excellent jumping-off point for anyone hoping to hear firsthand stories from inside the United States intelligence apparatus. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreAn Inside Look At The Swiss Watch Industry
I Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches...
Read MoreI Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches is obvious. Based on a watchmaking tradition going back centuries, Switzerland is home to the majority of luxury watch brands from Patek Phillipe and Rolex to Tissot and Hublot. The country’s connections to espionage are less understood. A historically neutral country, Switzerland houses several international organizations including the United Nations in Geneva, and is often the location of high-stakes intergovernmental meetings both overt and clandestine. Traditionally loose banking laws have also made Switzerland a convenient place for individuals to store wealth, regardless of the origin of those financial gains. Needless to say, Switzerland is a country that I have visited many times and holds a special place in my heart. W.O.E. at Omega SA in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland The intentions for this trip were simple: to learn more about the Swiss watch industry and specifically brands that are closely aligned with our community. While Omega, Tudor, IWC, and Breitling are very different companies, the one thing they have in common is decades-old relationships with our community. Initially producing purpose-built issued military watches in the 20th century, today these brands are the leaders of modern unit watch programs. IWC’s pilot’s watches, Omega’s Seamasters, Tudor’s extensive dive line, and Breitling's aviation-centric collection are accurately depicted as luxury items today, but they were all once purpose-built tools. “Watches of Espionage” is in the DNA of each of these companies and I would go as far as to say they would not exist or be where they are today without military end users. Breitling manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (W.O.E.) I was fortunate to meet with CEOs, watch designers/watchmakers, suits, and most relevant to W.O.E., the individuals that run each brand’s Unit Watch programs. The experience gave me a deeper appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and resources it takes to build and sustain a leading watch company. I realize how unique it is to be granted access to these closed-off facilities and this level of openness is not something I take for granted. A Geography Lesson Geneva, Switzerland. Switzerland’s watchmaking industry is intriguing in that it spreads across the relatively small country’s varied geography and its many cultural boundaries. While many of the watch industry’s corporate headquarters are located in Geneva, Switzerland's second-most populous city, the majority of actual production including movements takes place in the Jura mountains spanning the country’s northwestern border. Traditionally, watchmakers expanded to this area to take advantage of an agricultural workforce that was dormant during the winter months, creating the “farmer watchmaker” heritage that many brands tout today. Map of Switzerland’s watchmaking centers. (Credit: Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry) Swiss watchmaking also spans the country’s language barriers. Rolex/Tudor, which is headquartered in Geneva, is staffed primarily by French-speaking Swiss or French workers traveling across the border, but as you head north toward Biel/Bienne, Omega’s headquarters, language and culture shift to a blend of French and German influence. Breitling is also a brand of two cultures, with Swiss-German origins, a headquarters in German-speaking Grenchen, and a production facility in French-speaking La Chaux-de-Fonds. In contrast, IWC is located in Schaffhausen, near Zürich and just across the border from Germany, conducting nearly all of its business in German. Form Follows Function - Purpose-Built Tools Ander Ugarte (left) and Christian Koop are the head designers for Tudor and IWC, respectively. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting with Christian Koop and Ander Ugarte, the heads of design of IWC and Tudor, respectively. Intensely passionate and masters of their craft, each walked us through the process and attention to detail involved in designing a modern watch for brands steeped in heritage and tradition. The DNA of iconic watches like the IWC Mark series and Tudor dive watches can be traced back to the divers and soldiers who wore them over half a century ago. While today’s watches trend to luxury items vs real tools, a common phrase I heard was “form follows function.” The watches are still designed with the end user in mind, just as they were a century ago. Automation vs. Hand-Crafted Modern watchmaking is a fascinating blend of cutting-edge technology and centuries-old hand craftsmanship. The two most surprising aspects of visiting the manufacturing facilities of Breitling, Omega, and IWC were the number of robots/automated steps in contrast with the number of steps still requiring human touch. The manufacturing facilities are reliant on technicians and watchmakers from the rural areas of Switzerland, who still work farmers' hours, just as they did centuries ago. Breitling watch technician. Each morning, hundreds of watchmakers and technicians arrive at the facilities, don sterile antistatic white coats and clean Crocs or Birkenstocks, and spend hours tightening tiny screws to spec or attaching dials to movements. It is a painstaking process and a truly remarkable juxtaposition of futuristic cutting-edge technology and traditional watchmaking. Trying my hand at watchmaking at IWC Schaffhausen. The result is a watch containing hundreds of components, all working in sync to tell you the time. The watches are then shipped around the world through complex dealer networks and intermediaries for you to purchase. Seeing this process firsthand is a remarkable experience and gives me a greater appreciation for the technical and logistical prowess required in Swiss watchmaking. Military Unit Watch Programs - Omega, Tudor, IWC, & Breitling A “Unit Watch” is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization. Customizations can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. When it comes to Swiss watches, Tudor, Omega, and IWC are the modern leaders in the space and we have profiled each program in past articles. An Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” produced for the US Navy SEALs. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A cynical analysis of these programs would conclude they are sophisticated marketing initiatives, meant to garner publicity through leaks on social media. While I would argue they accomplish this goal in certain instances, the reality is the brands are largely hesitant to publicly acknowledge the partnerships. Swiss brands have spent decades carefully curating a specific narrative to position themselves as aspirational luxury goods. “Tudors of Espionage,” “Sketchy dudes wear Breitling”, and an iconic image of Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a Secret Service agent after an assassination attempt run counter to these carefully crafted narratives. Diplomatic Security Tudor Black Bay 58. Further, in contrast to smaller brands like Bremont which garner significant revenue from military programs, for the large Swiss houses, it is costly to divert resources to customizing a dial or caseback for a relatively small batch of custom watches, which are also often sold at a discount. In short, these programs likely aren't big money makers for brands that measure watch sales in the hundreds of thousands of units. IWC Unit Watch for AH-64 pilots. So why do large luxury watch brands bother with Unit Watches? As far as I can tell, these programs are passion projects for individuals within each company and they are somewhat controversial for some brands. I have spent significant time with the individuals in charge of the unit watch programs and they are fiercely passionate about them. They truly believe that they are serving a greater calling by producing meaningful tools and heirlooms for our community. Not surprisingly, these individuals also appreciate what we are doing at Watches of Espionage. Watch Brands Are Businesses This one is so obvious that it shouldn't have to be said, but it's a simple fact that many watch “enthusiasts” often forget. The purpose of a watch company is not to make watches, it's to make money. Many of the individuals who work at the major brands are suits, marketing professionals, and technicians who could work for any number of companies in the luxury goods space. While some of them are passionate about watches, the majority of them likely do not consume watch content on their personal time and are not “watch nerds.” Swatch Group Headquarters, left is Omega building. (Photo CreditL Stefan Wermuth/Bloomberg) To be clear, while I enjoy making fun of suits as much as the next guy, this is actually a good thing. If you love watches like I do, then you should want watch brands to succeed… at making money. Headwinds for the watch industry are at an all-time high with Apple Watch sales surpassing the entire Swiss watch industry. It’s not a foregone conclusion that the most iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet will be around in 2074. For the most part, modern watches are luxury goods, meaning they are unnecessary. If they are not profitable, they will disappear. Watch nerds often shed crocodile tears on internet forums complaining about why brand X doesn't produce a specific watch or “listen to the community,” but the reality is brands generally make decisions based on mass market appeal. It may be a tough pill to swallow, but many brands do not care about enthusiasts, and from a bottom-line perspective, they shouldn’t. Ownership Matters As consumers, we often think of brands as discrete monoliths, independent entities that make design and product decisions in a vacuum. However, industry consolidation has led to four conglomerates owning the majority of the Swiss watch industry; Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the parent organization for Rolex and Tudor. Somewhat dated graphic showing ownership in the watch industry (Image Credit: Tony Traina, Rescapement) While in theory, the brands are independent or semi-independent entities, the reality is that Omega's decisions could impact the overall standing and profitability of Swatch Group as a whole, and IWC is just one node of the broader Richemont family. While Tudor often paints itself as an independent entity, when I visited Tudor HQS in Geneva, it was inside Rolex. It’s naive to think that there is no coordination between the companies. Breitling was purchased from the Schneider family by a private equity company in 2017 and whether we like it or not, the overall decisions of the brand are impacted by this ownership structure. (Photo Credit: Rolex) Conglomerates are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they offer access to capital and resources, Richemont and Swatch Group are multibillion-dollar conglomerates with robust infrastructure and supply chains. On the other hand, the conglomerates must ensure each company works towards the same goal, which likely limits independence and creativity at the brand level. Coopetition - Competitors Or Partners? Further, even between competing brands, there is a level of cooperation and sharing. Historically, the legendary Rolex Daytona utilized a chronograph movement supplied by Zenith. Even today, Breitling and Tudor, theoretically arch rivals, share movements, with Breitling utilizing several of Tudor’s base automatic calibers and Tudor receiving a modified version of the B01 chronograph caliber in return, a level of cooperation you aren’t going to see from Apple and Samsung. Tudor's MT5612 is produced by Tudor and voluntarily shared with Breitling, a rival watchmaker. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) While they’re never going to admit it publicly, many of the biggest brands also look to the same suppliers for specific components from jewels to mainsprings to cases and bracelets to construct their “in-house” movements and complete watches. Third-party certifications like COSC and METAS are also utilized by multiple brands looking for a competitive advantage. Despite being fundamentally in competition, I heard several brand leaders admit the overall health of the Swiss watch industry is always in mind. A rising tide lifts all ships. For the industry to succeed holistically, the brands must balance being fiercely competitive with a measured level of cooperation. While it was created in collaboration with Omega and an impartial third party, Tudor has also started instituting METAS testing and certification for some of its watches. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) Tribalism Exists at Every Level Visit any social media watch page and the tribalism—visceral feelings for or against a specific brand—is evident. There are fewer general “watch guys” and more “Rolex” or “Omega” guys. The passion is real and watch nerds think their brand is the best and everyone else sucks. The individuals I met at each brand were fiercely proud of the product they produce, which is cool to see. While they were professional enough to not bad mouth another company outright, it's clear that they truly believed their brand was the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. While this may sound like a negative, this intense conviction to be the best was inspiring. If I buy a Tudor, Omega, Breitling, or IWC, I like knowing that the people making it in the mountains of Switzerland are true believers. Heritage Matters Omega museum, Biel/Bienne, Switzerland When you buy a watch, you are not just buying the components, you are buying a piece of history. One of the most educational aspects of the trip was visiting the museums of Breitling in Zurich, Omega in Biel/Bienne, and IWC in Schaffhausen. For the brands I visited, the history is rich and compelling, and on full display. Breitling Emergency Prototype (Breilting Museum, Zurich Switzerland) Of course, the brands emphasize certain periods and events to carefully curate a narrative, but they are still compelling because it’s authentic. Omega’s museum had numerous watches worn by astronauts, soldiers, and spies, both real and contrived (Bond, James Bond). IWC was founded by an American soldier, Florentine Ariosto Jones who fought for the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the Civil War and would go on to produce watches for both the Allies and the Germans during World War II, something the museum refreshingly does not gloss over. Breitling’s DNA is rooted in aviation, having provided issued watches during both World Wars decades before becoming a go-to option for those operating on the fringe of sketchiness in the 1990s and 2000s. These museums are open to the public, and I encourage you to visit if you find yourself in Switzerland. The great thing about the country is you can get pretty much anywhere in a few hour train ride. Left is an issued “MN” Tudor MilSub on an original strap, fashioned from parachute webbing. The one on the right was a unit purchase gift for a retiring officer. It was purchased through the MN Rolex-certified watchmaker, Yves Pastre who had a workshop in Toulon. (Photo Credit: Tudor Archives/W.O.E.) Unfortunately, Tudor does not have a museum, but they did provide us access to their extensive archives of military-issued watches and prototypes. This will be the subject of a future Dispatch and the spice level was high. Swiss Watch Marketing is Antiquated I have written in the past about the sophisticated marketing machines behind the Swiss watch industry and this trip confirmed that thesis (Read Here). The major brands, including IWC, Tudor, Omega, and Breitling, have masterfully curated a narrative based on decades-old craftsmanship and history, that makes them leaders in a crowded industry. In addition to co-opting watch media, they spend millions of dollars a year sponsoring sporting events, recruiting celebrity ambassadors, and producing slick marketing material. Watches and Wonders, an international watch and jewelry industry organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. (Photo Credit: Wikicommons) While I am by no means a marketing expert, I am intimately familiar with human nature. I get the feeling that the brands are reliant on what has worked in the past and not focused on the future, or for that matter the present. Celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, film product placement, and heavily-curated “new releases” are masterclasses in Marketing 101 but the modern consumer is savvy and the media landscape has changed. Legacy watch publications have declined in recent years and have been replaced by a plethora of dispersed voices. There are TikTokers, Youtubers, and podcast hosts who are more influential than Tom Brady and even James Bond. The Swiss watch industry appears slow to adapt to the new landscape and continues to fall back on tried and true methods. Given its age, watchmaking as a whole is steeped in tradition and slow to adapt, especially when it comes to reaching the younger consumers the industry so desperately needs to continue. W.O.E. in Schaffhausen, wearing the same IWC Mark XVII I wore while operational at CIA. Does visiting a facility impact how I will cover them? To date, we have kept the traditional watch industry at arm's length distance, something that frankly much of the industry is okay with. That said, as we have grown our audience we owe it to our community to present thoughtful and unbiased commentary on the watches and brands that are aligned with our ethos. I made some great friends and contacts on this trip and am grateful for the level of access I was granted. It will continue to be a balance between nurturing these relationships and remaining unswayed by the influence of the brands on content. Despite some of the critiques above, my appreciation for the Swiss watch industry in general and these legendary brands in particular could not be higher. I am grateful for those individuals who made this trip possible and thankful for the time and effort of the teams in Switzerland. There are several threads to pull on from this trip and we plan to write additional stories on IWC’s “Top Gun” unit watch program, recent developments in Omega’s unit watch offerings, and the real story behind the Tudor FXD. Thank you all for the support, more to come. -W.O.E. *Note, as with all of our content, this is not sponsored by Tudor, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or any other brand. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: Tactical Watches & Holiday Movies
The Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a...
Read MoreThe Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a look at Christmas movies and tactical watches. This is a fun one and a clear sign that we don’t take ourselves too seriously. Tradition matters at Watches of Espionage. It’s what builds culture and forms the pillars of our community. During the holiday season, tradition means appreciating the cinematic masterpiece that is Die Hard as well as Home Alone and other Christmas classics. As always, watches are the lens through which we view everything from historical events to films. As it happens, some of our favorite holiday films also prominently feature watches that are significant in our community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we stay true to our roots, exploring these iconic holiday films in the way we know best, through the lens of national security and—of course—the watches worn on screen. Enjoy episode nine of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands
Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with...
Read MoreOur Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it? You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel, Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop
Read More2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop
Straps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles...
Read MoreStraps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles on the Dispatch every week, the addition of our first full-time team member (intern), Benjamin Lowry, an Instagram following 185k strong, the launch of our YouTube Channel, and an ever-growing collection of tools on our site. Before we do anything else, thank you all for your continued support. The end of the year also means it’s time for the holidays, and we admit that watch enthusiasts and other gear-oriented people are notoriously hard to shop for. With that in mind, we assembled some of our top picks from the W.O.E store. Whether you’re shopping for yourself or trying to find exactly the right gift for the watch nerd in your life, this list includes a wide range of price ranges representing our most popular categories. *We will be closing up shop on December 14th this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* Straps: One of the single best gift ideas for a watch enthusiast is a strap, a relatively inexpensive way to give a watch a new look. For a comprehensive look at the entire W.O.E. strap collection, click HERE, but here are some of our recommendations for this holiday season. NEW - W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap - $85 More than a year in development, the new W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap is produced to our specifications from FKM or fluoroelastomer, the highest quality rubber material on the market, and paired with a custom engraved 316L stainless steel W.O.E. buckle. 007 Bond Nylon Strap - Five Eye - $35 In honor of filmmaking’s most legendary secret agent, the 007 versions of our Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap provide three distinct patterns recognizable to Bond fans paired with our custom matte weave nylon construction, custom 316L stainless steel “WOE” buckle, a reinforced stitched tip, and beveled keepers. Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 to $49 Available with either stainless steel or new PVD black hardware, the Glomar Explorer Hook And Loop Watch Strap is a premium execution of the classic hook and loop nylon straps favored by divers for decades. Gear: In addition to straps, we offer a wide variety of EDC or everyday carry tools not intended for watches. These are great options fit for virtually anyone who appreciates quality, utility, and W.O.E. The Mosebey Blade - $358 Inspired by Bill “Bwana” Mosebey, a legendary Africa Division Case Officer, The Mosebey Blade is a fully customized all-purpose blade made in the USA from premium domestic materials. Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover - $145 Produced by hand by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota, the Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover is made from full-grain leather and U.S. government spec canvas and intended to fit the (included) Moleskine Classic Softer Cover Notebook. W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat - $35 We didn’t reinvent the wheel here, they are hats. That said, this is the ultimate “if you know, you know,” and if someone recognizes you wearing the W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat, you are sure to have a new friend. The Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask - $89 For the adult beverage connoisseurs in the room, the Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask is made of food-grade stainless steel coated with copper and wrapped with American-tanned English Tan Dublin leather from The Horween Tannery in Chicago. W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack Hook & Loop - $25 One of our best options if you’re unsure where else to look, our hook and loop-backed W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack includes three unique designs referencing key aspects of our “Use Your Tools” ethos. Watch Storage: Whether you’re traveling internationally or just want a great way to store your collection of tool watches, our watch storage options are custom-made to suit the high standards of our community. The Diplomat 4 Watch Roll - $165 Produced in the United States, the Diplomat 4 Watch Roll safely holds four watches while being hand-sewn in the USA with American-made waxed ripstop canvas and leather. Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin - $138 Our first custom tool and still one of our favorites, the Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin set is produced in the United States by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota from US-tanned SB Foote leather and repurposed M81 camouflage material. 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case - $78 If security and safety from the elements are your primary concerns, the 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case is our best option, offering water resistance as well as custom-cut interior foam to safeguard your collection. W.O.E. X-Pac Strap Pouch - $42 Manufactured by hand in the United States from X-Pac, a waterproof three-layer material with a rugged camouflage 500D Cordura face fabric, the X-Pac Strap Pouch is an excellent option for straps, tools, or chargers. Home & Office: Whether you’re deeply into watches or not, our home and office collection provides excellent daily tools everyone can use to stay organized while demonstrating membership in our community. EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener - $115 For keys, watch accessories, or other small items, our EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener set is made from full grain leather and Mil-Spec canvas while coming with a custom metal bottle opener complete with the W.O.E. Spearhead insignia. W.O.E. Use Your Tools Coffee Mug - $35 If there’s one thing watch nerds and the military can agree on, it might be the importance of coffee. Our Use Your Tools Coffee Mug is handmade in the USA and complete with our Spearhead logo. W.O.E. Gift Card - $50 to $300 If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Tactical Watches & Christmas Films - Die Hard, Lethal Weapon & Home Alone
Read MoreWatch Industry SITREP - November 2024
Trump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry...
Read MoreTrump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry Welcome back to the Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap and discussion of the previous month’s watch-related news and any other current events pertaining to our community. Here in the United States, Thanksgiving has come and gone and November is officially at an end. If it hasn’t already, Mariah Carey’s seminal work, "All I Want For Christmas Is You" will soon be bombarding your ears to harden your resolve ahead of another bustling yuletide season. But for now, let’s keep our sight picture squarely on watches and espionage. November offered a plethora of watch-related happenings from the worlds of politics, national security, and crime. In case you missed it, the US presidential election unveiled a new (old) president, with at least one of his potential appointments demonstrating solid watch taste likely related to his intriguing background. In addition, we have an updated Omega Seamaster, a legendary Japanese crime syndicate getting in on the watch theft trend, politicians surrendering watches, and some impressive Rolex stats. Trump’s Former SpecOps Pick For National Security Advisor Wears A Rolex GMT-Master II Rep. Mike Waltz is, like many members of US Army Special Forces, a Rolex guy. A few weeks back, President-elect Donald Trump asked Mike Waltz to serve as his national security advisor (NSA). We’re not here to comment on the political ramifications of Waltz serving in the role, but the Republican Representative from Florida does have quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.). Embodying the adage that all a Special Forces man needs are “a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex”, Waltz has been spotted on several occasions wearing a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710 also known as the “Batman”. W.O.E. has been known to call the Rolex GMT-Master the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch. With Waltz and SF legend Billy Waugh serving as excellent anecdotal evidence, the model family has strong roots in Special Forces as well. (Photo Credit: Green Beret Foundation) In another photo from the 80th anniversary of D-Day in Normandy, France where Waltz jumped from a WWII-Era C-47, he is seen wearing an older Rolex GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, potentially a reference 16710, on a nylon pull-through strap, clear indication Waltz is at least a little bit of a watch guy. A New Omega Seamaster Diver 300 Bares A Striking Resemblance To Unit Watches (Photo Credit: Omega) Leaked during the Olympics on the wrist of wannabe spy Daniel Craig, Omega finally officially unveiled its revamped Seamaster Diver 300. It’s not a meteoric change compared to the preexisting model, moving to a non-date format, transitioning from ceramic to aluminum for the dial and insert, and adding a mesh bracelet option. While we don’t typically cover new releases, there is an uncanny resemblance between the updated Seamaster Diver 300 and recent examples from Omega’s modern unit watch program that has outfitted the US Navy SEALs, US Secret Service, and the Danish Frogman Corps, to name a few. The US Secret Service Omega Seamaster unit watch. It would be a stretch to say the new watch was developed as an answer to the hype surrounding Omega’s unit watch program after the US Secret Service variant was spotted on the wrist of an agent during the attempted assassination of President-elect Donald Trump, but in any case, we’re happy to see one of the most popular luxury dive watches move in a more utilitarian direction better suited to the Use Your Tools lifestyle. Yakuza Suspected In Coordinated Luxury Theft Of 172 Rolex Watches An alleged Yakuza member wearing a Rolex Submariner “Bluesy”. (Photo Credit: Sabukaru) Recently in Osaka, Japan, a delivery van loaded with over 170 new Rolex watches was stolen while its driver left the vehicle unattended and unlocked for “around three minutes”. Three individuals have since been arrested in connection to the theft, with one having strong ties to the Yakuza, a legendary organized crime syndicate with roots dating back 300 years. As you’d imagine, the van was later dumped after being emptied of its horological contents, which had an estimated value of $1.9M. If your AD has been dodging you, now might be a great time to check Chrono24’s Japanese Rolex listings… I’m just saying. Also in Osaka, a store clerk and police detained a would-be robber after he attempted to flee with four luxury watches. While much of the conversation surrounding watch theft in 2024 revolves around European cities including London and Paris or New York and Los Angeles in the United States, this coordinated robbery demonstrates a growing trend in Japan. In contrast to the strongarm robberies often perpetrated in Europe and the US, watch thefts in Japan are, other than this delivery van robbery, typically characterized by organized smash and grabs of high-profile retail locations. For another example of an organized crime syndicate focused on watches and jewelry, check out our recent Dispatch on the Pink Panthers (HERE). Rudy Giuliani Surrenders 26 Luxury Watches After $148M Lawsuit L Giuliani wearing a Shinola chronograph that appears to have been among his surrendered watches. Former New York City Mayor and Time Magazine Person of the Year Rudy Giuliani has been ordered to surrender 26 luxury watches as well as a 1980 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 formerly owned by movie star Lauren Bacall. This comes after Giuliani’s meteoric $148M loss in a defamation lawsuit filed by two Georgia election workers following the 2020 US presidential election. Giuliani has been the subject of no shortage of financial concerns as of late, and it looks unlikely that he will be able to repay the $148M, hence the surrender of many of his personal effects which also includes a $5M apartment on the Upper East Side. A screen capture from Ted Goodman’s video on X showing some of Guiliani’s surrendered watches. (Photo Credit: X) On November 14th, a spokesperson for Giuliani, Ted Goodman, posted a video on X showing 18 watches and a ring he said were in the process of being turned over to relevant authorities. According to court documents, these watches include Bulova, Shinola, Tiffany & Co, Seiko, Frank Muller, Graham, Corium, Rolex, IWC, Invicta, Breitling, Raymond Weil, and Baume & Mercer. In the video, Goodman goes on to say, “This is the accumulation of 60 years of hard work. Many of these watches hold great sentimental value.” Whatever Guiliani’s watch collection is worth, it’s a small drop in a $148M bucket. The Total Value Of The World’s Rolex Submariners Surpasses Many Nations Analysis of data released in the recent Rolex Submariner book provided surprising conclusions. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Based on analysis of the production data for Rolex Submariners released in the Crown’s recent book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep, the combined value of all of the nearly four million Submariner and Sea-Dweller models produced over the years adds up to a weighty $50B. It’s an astonishing figure, but the real revelations stem from contextual analysis of what a number like that means. We would have guessed the total value of Rolex’s Subs would have been a lot, but still… $50B is, for example, greater than the GDP or gross domestic product of countries like Jordan, Tunisia, Bahrain, El Salvador, Cambodia, and Iceland (according to 2023 World Bank Data). Of course, you can’t compile all of the world’s Submariners into an unholy Scrooge McDuck-style pool of gold doubloons, but the world-beating figure does help to illustrate the size of the global financial impact commanded by Rolex SA over the decades, which also turned over no less than $10B in 2023. We’re not here for Ernst Blofeld comparisons, but what kind of bargaining power and political influence does that offer to a brand that is already also among the most recognized on Earth? There’s a reason they call it “The Crown”, and it ain’t just the logo. Final Thoughts As we brace ourselves for the holiday season, we sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed your monthly helping of watch industry news and commentary. From a former Special Forces guy being picked to work in the White House with a Rolex Batman on the wrist to Rudy Giuliani’s forfeited watch collection to a Yakuza luxury watch heist, and an astonishing Rolex statistic, the November gales of watch industry content blew fast and strong. If you appreciate this format or have other stories you’d like to see covered in next month’s SITREP, please do not hesitate to let us know in the comments. If something about our coverage offended or upset you, we’re confident you’ll have no trouble expressing your concerns as well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - October 2024
Read MoreThe Newly-Discovered Watches Of SEALAB III & The Records That Prove It
US Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s...
Read MoreUS Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s ability to live and work on the sea floor for an extended period, supported by a specialized underwater habitat. The techniques and equipment developed for SEALAB I, II, and III would later be used in shadowy underwater espionage targeting the Soviet Union, but SEALAB is better remembered to watch enthusiasts for some of the legendary watches used by some of history’s boldest divers. In this Dispatch, I’ll share how a chance encounter with a piece of handwritten history forever alters our understanding of the watches of the Navy’s final SEALAB project. __ For someone like me, the Man In The Sea Museum in Panama City Beach is something akin to paradise, providing one of the world’s most impressive collections of vintage military diving memorabilia, much of it related to SEALAB. Given the timing, SEALAB is associated with some of history’s great tool dive watches and played a key role in the development of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) But, despite what the internet may say, Rolex isn’t the only name in the SEALAB game. Thumbing through old binders while volunteering in the museum’s library, I came across an issue log for dive watches hand-written in 1968 by a SEALAB legend. The usual suspects including Rolex were there, but the log also illuminated the outsized role played by Doxa as well as another Swiss brand I would argue no one would ever guess. In this Dispatch, we’ll look to archival evidence, interviews with surviving Aquanauts, and a few educated guesses to provide the most complete picture ever assembled of the watches of SEALAB III. Man In The Sea Museum, Panama City Beach - 2022 My dad and I were hard at work cataloging and organizing the library in the Man in the Sea Museum when we came across a document that stopped us in our tracks. In this increasingly digitized world, there are still a few horological secrets lost to history waiting to be uncovered, the type of secrets that haven’t been converted to PDF. The same watch stories make the rounds again and again, some amazing discoveries are put forth by genuine horological enthusiasts, and some stories are haphazardly cobbled together by brands to help push more watches. Searching for dive watches in vintage photographs at the Man in the Sea Museum is the stuff of legend. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) Most are somewhere in between. Watches have never received the amount of attention they do today. Record-keeping for the sake of enthusiasm or posterity was not common practice. This is also true in the arena of dive watches, fostering a healthy debate about the actual timeline of the introduction of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and Rolex Submariner, in particular. Except when it comes to the military. In military settings and especially diving, recording every bit of minutiae is an occupational necessity, a matter of life and death in certain cases. Luckily, as a Coast Guard veteran turned commercial diver, it happens to be my area of interest, which is how I found myself volunteering to help organize the Man in the Sea Museum’s stacked but admittedly disheveled library a couple of years ago. The Man In The Sea Museum is home to the original SEALAB habitat as well as an incredible library full of old US Navy records. Leafing through records from the SEALAB programs, I came across a few scribbled lines on notebook paper that validated my years-long horological quest to understand the role of tool watches in the United States military, particularly in underwater applications. Along with these handwritten records, I uncovered hundreds of photographs from SEALAB that had yet to be digitized, and therefore, had yet to be seen by the watch community, until now. A dive watch enthusiast’s dream. An archival photo from the SEALAB program shows Dr. George “Papa Topside” Bond (left), Captain William Nicholson (center), and Commander Jack Tomsky (right). Tomsky is wearing a Doxa Sub. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) I went through binder after binder of records from all three of the Navy’s SEALAB experiments. I was looking for something that clued me into what equipment was used, particularly what watches were used. These aquanauts recorded everything. It was part of their job, of course, but the level of detail was staggering. A detailed record of saturation dives undertaken in a chamber at the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) preceding SEALAB III. (Source: US Navy) Finally, after hours spent carefully flipping through delicate aged paper and deciphering faded handwriting from the ‘60s, my efforts paid off. A list of the exact watches that were used on SEALAB III. And when I say exact, I mean it—right down to the serial numbers. And it came directly from one of the aquanauts, meticulously detailed like everything else about the mission. While several watchmakers have established SEALAB connections—including an excellent article by Justin Couture detailing the role potentially played by Aquastar—some of the brands mentioned in the log had never really been in the SEALAB conversation before, let alone with hard evidence of being officially issued by the US Navy. If I could, with the help of friends and former Aquanauts, prove the veracity of this hastily written log, our understanding of military dive watches would be forever altered. Here is the handwritten log that sent me so deeply down the rabbit hole. The original handwritten log was reportedly penned by none other than Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to serve on all three SEALAB missions. For the sake of legibility and to aid in deciphering the shorthand, I have—with help from surviving aquanauts—added some context to the list to help give us a better picture of who these watches were issued to. Watches Issued On 03 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Rolex, 25 jewels Cyril Tuckfield, Chief Petty Officer, USN Rolex, serial 1478174 Derek J. Clark, Petty Officer First Class, Royal Navy Jaquet Droz Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa William P. Lukeman, Leading Seaman, Royal Canadian Navy Doxas Issued To Aquanauts On 23 Sep & 27 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies Lieutenant Commander, USN Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Doxa 6665367 Mark E. Bradley, Lieutenant Commander, Medical Corps, USN Doxa 6665417 Robert A. Bornholdt, Lieutenant, USN, Team Leader Aquanaut Bob Barth’s Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Unsurprisingly, we see the usual suspects on the wrists of the aquanauts, starting with Rolex, although it’s important to note that what was sometimes recorded as Rolex was sometimes actually a Tudor Submariner, as Rolex took care of distribution and delivery. In ‘69, the US Navy had a contract with Tudor that had already begun in the late ‘50s, so there’s a chance these watches came from that procurement arrangement. A brand associated with anything but diving in 2024, I was surprised to see Jaquet Droz mentioned in the issue log from SEALAB III. Looking through the list, something else stood out immediately. “JK Droz” was listed in the records as having been issued to an aquanaut. Surely not the Swatch-owned atelier producing automatons that cost six figures and watches with all sorts of crazy enameling and decorations. Jaquet Droz isn’t a name you hear in the W.O.E. sphere often. The brand has never once been mentioned on this site before, and they certainly don’t fit in with the “Watches of Espionage” crop of brands. As usual, there are layers to the story. But first, let’s look at the watches from brands we do know something about: Doxa and Rolex. While Doxa has been loosely associated with SEALAB and Navy Divers in the past, the discovery of this document adds clarity to the brand’s official position as a US Navy-issued watch during the SEALAB experiments. Digging deeper into the Doxa watches on the list, the brand’s serial numbering convention has been well documented by MKWS, a Doxa expert on Watchuseek. MKWS posits that Doxa introduced a 7-digit system where the first two numbers correspond to the year of production. In the case of all the models issued to SEALAB, that number is 66, which would suggest they were produced in ‘66, at least in theory. Officially released in 1967, there are only a few other examples of Doxa Sub 300 models from 1966, meaning the US Navy was among the earliest adopters of the brand. If that’s not an endorsement for a new-to-market dive watch, especially when Navy Divers already had access to Rolex and Tudor Submariners, I’m not sure what is. A Doxa Sub 300 from 1967. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) Interestingly, the only Rolex serial number listed also registers as being produced in ‘66 (Rolex serial numbers of that era aren’t an exact science, but can be traced to an approximate year of production). This all checks out, as the gearing up for SEALAB III would have taken place during this time. SEALAB II had been a successful mission in ‘65, and SEALAB III took some time due to engineering requirements and modifications that allowed the habitat to go significantly deeper than the previous two missions, 610 feet as opposed to 205 feet for SEALAB II and 192 feet for SEALAB I. The Vietnam War also put pressure on budgets for such a novel and costly project. Bob Barth (right) wearing his Rolex Submariner 5512, one of many Rolex Submariners used on the SEALAB missions. Much of the equipment and material—including watches—for the final SEALAB program was likely carried over from SEALAB I and II. After Doxa, the second most present brand appearing in the logs was Rolex, and the Crown had certainly been ever-present in underwater exploration for nearly a decade at the commencement of SEALAB III. Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to have dived on all three SEALAB missions, was reportedly instrumental in developing the Rolex Sea Dweller. This SEALAB III Rolex Submariner is not on our list but was owned by Leo Gies and sold by Bonhams in 2015. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Barth dove with his Rolex Submariner on SEALAB I and II, so it’s no surprise to see several Submariners listed in the SEALAB III records. Another Rolex Submariner was issued to Leo Gies who is recorded on our list as having received a Doxa. Gies’s Submariner—which was sold by Bonhams on behalf of the Gies family in 2015—was engraved “SEALAB III” on the back, which makes its absence from our list all the more interesting. Maybe there is another handwritten log out there. Our research continues. We’ll do another Dispatch on the role of Rolex in US Navy Undersea Research, but for now, let’s continue by discussing the role played by Doxa in the dive watch landscape of the late 1960s. Doxa & Diving In The 1960s Georges Ducommun founded Doxa in 1899, and the company quickly developed a reputation for producing a broad range of dress and sport watches—but the brand will always be best remembered for its contributions to the world of undersea timekeeping. In the 1960s, Doxa was one of the front-runners when it came to producing watches specifically for professional diving applications. The “skin diver” category of watches was well established, with sporty watches suitable for recreational water activity. These came out of the recreational diving boom of the late ‘50s, but as diving equipment became more technologically advanced, so did the need for a watch that could handle significant depth and pressure, but more importantly, remain legible in murky water. This is where Doxa’s signature design element surfaced; the company found that a specific hue of orange was most visible underwater. The bright orange “Professional” dial became their calling card. Legendary oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau wearing a Doxa Sub 300T “Sharkhunter”. The Sub 300 and later 300T models emerged from Doxa’s design and field studies and quickly became a popular diving watch for professionals—the intended target segment, and the military alike. The Swiss Armed Forces purchased and issued this model to Swiss combat divers in approximately 1970. Bolstered by its inclusion in Clive Cussler’s thriller novels, the orange dial and “beads-of-rice” bracelet have become a common sight in recreational and military dive communities ever since. The model also became popular because it was championed by none other than French oceanographer Jacques Costeau. Doxa & The US Navy A Navy Experimental Diving Unit photo from the early 1970s shows a Doxa Sub 300T Professional in use. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) With a better grasp of the brands and watches on the list, our next step was to track down and speak with the surviving aquanauts, one of whom provided a bombshell about the written log’s author. When we reached out to aquanaut Richard “Blackie” Blackburn, he took one look at the log and confirmed that it was the handwriting of none other than Bob Barth, the Bob Barth who helped create the Sea-Dweller, pioneering the use of a helium escape valve in watches in the process. Barth was also, according to Blackburn, the man who kept track of where all the Navy’s Doxa Sub models and other watches were going. Unfortunately, Barth passed in 2020, so we weren’t going to be able to ask him directly about the log, but our research carried on. It’s also important to note there is no mention of the Doxa Conquistador in our log, which is a specific version of the 300T equipped with a helium escape valve. For more on the rarest Doxa Sub variant, check out Perezcope’s research on Doxa’s role in developing the helium escape valve. Given SEALAB was a saturation diving experiment—the one environment where you need the valve—it would have made sense for Doxa to have sent over the Conquistador, but we found no definitive evidence of this being the case. There are numerous examples of Doxa Sub models being used by Navy Divers, but their role in SEALAB hasn’t been confirmed until now. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) The next step was taking stock of exactly what was issued using the records and then matching those serial numbers with the watches on the wrists of aquanauts, if possible. It was time for the detective work. While many have passed—SEALAB III took place 55 years ago—five of the aquanauts listed in the log as the recipients of Doxa watches are still alive today. We started by tracking down their contact info and cold-sending emails to these legends of undersea exploration. Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Taken while working on an oil spill in California after leaving the Navy, this photo shows Richard Blackburn’s Rolex GMT-Master, a gift from Bob Barth upon his retirement. Whether or not Blackburn ever received a Doxa remains a mystery. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) When I sent an email to Richard “Blackie” Blackburn with my number in the signature, my phone rang about two minutes later. After identifying the handwriting on the log as that of Bob Barth, Blackie informed me he had no recollection of ever being issued a Doxa. But, he said it wasn’t that unusual to see his name on the log, describing Barth’s issue process for watches as being as casual as “trading a cup of coffee” for a watch in certain instances before noting the transaction in his log with whatever name and number moved him at the time. Years later, Barth made up for it, gifting Blackburn a Rolex GMT-Master with his name and “SEALAB III” engraved on the caseback, a watch that he lost to a shady watch repairman years later. Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Cyril Lafferty during SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: Shared By Perezcope) Because of a photo circulating the web showing the former Royal Navy officer wearing a Doxa, I felt confident Cyril Lafferty, who was loaned to the US Navy SEALAB project by Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, might have the goods. While Mr. Lafferty confirmed he is the man in the photo wearing a Doxa, he said he had no recollection of being issued a Doxa watch or any other by the US Navy. He did remember being issued a Rolex or Omega by the Royal Navy, however. Later serving as the captain of the Royal Navy’s only deep-diving research vessel, HMS Reclaim, Lafferty went on to pioneer hyperbaric treatment techniques for multiple sclerosis. Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Then-LCDR Osborn preparing for a dive in 1968. (Photo Credit: Jim Osborn) In an email exchange with retired Captain Osborn, he confirmed he was issued a Doxa watch and wore it for all of the years he was an active Navy Diver before making the change to a Seiko in 1983, a gift from his wife when he retired from the Navy. Years later, Osborn sold the Doxa and a personal Rolex to a jeweler, saying, “The cash went into my pocket and I never gave it a second thought.” We may not have the watch or its serial number, but this is a second piece of evidence—after the Laffery photo—supporting the issue log we found. Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies, Lieutenant Commander, USN While I failed to contact LCDR Gies via email, the salty old Naval officer was kind enough to give me a call one Friday morning. Despite the passing of some five and half decades, Gies is razor sharp and remembered being issued a Rolex dive watch before receiving the Doxa when he joined the SEALAB III program. Sadly, the Doxa is no longer in his possession. After leaving the Doxa with a watchmaker in the 1970s, Mr. Gies explained he never saw it again, thinking it was perhaps sold under dubious circumstances. It’s the kind of thing that could break a watch enthusiast’s heart, but for Gies, another lost diving tool wasn’t a huge deal then or now. In any case, Gies’s recollection serves as another hard firsthand link confirming the US Navy’s issue of Doxa watches during SEALAB III. Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN I met Omar Moore in 2022 at a SEALAB reunion. He was wearing a Navy-issued Doxa T-graph, the stuff of legend. The hardest to track down was ironically the only aquanaut from the list I have met in person, Keith “Omar” Moore. On the very trip where I discovered the issue log in question, I also attended 2022’s SEALAB reunion. Moore attended wearing the impeccable example of a Doxa T-Graph photographed above, a watch he says was also issued to him by the Navy in 1968, before its commercial introduction in 1969. Could one of the serial numbers on this list belong to Moore’s T-Graph? After several unanswered emails, I asked a couple of the other aquanauts I connected with to vouch for me to Moore. 1968 photo of Omar Moore showing the incredible amount of gear worn by divers training for SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: US Navy) It did the trick. One morning a few days later, the phone rang. Moore informed me he was indeed issued a Doxa on one of the days listed in our note. He remembered Bob Barth setting up a small folding table not unlike a bake sale where SEALAB III divers and support staff could go and make an argument for why they should be issued a watch. Moore’s rapport with Barth was good, and Moore distinctly remembered Barth throwing him his brand new Searambler dial Doxa in its box from “across the room”. Where Barth got the watches from is unclear, but it is at least possible Doxa sent the watches to Barth directly or in the care of Barth because of his status as one of the “celebrity” aquanauts along with Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter. In any case, a few months later, Barth gave Moore another Doxa, this time the then-pre-production T-Graph chronograph. Moore remembered using both extensively in training dives and while supporting the construction and installation of the SEALAB III at no less than 610 feet of seawater off the coast of California’s San Clemente Island. “Mr. Moore, can I take a photo of your watch?” “Sure, man, whatever”. Unfortunately, when I was finally able to confirm the serial numbers of Moore’s Doxa, both of which he still has, neither matched the handwritten log. Here are the numbers as read (and confirmed) from Moore’s Doxa watches: Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph - Serial: 6675653 Doxa Sub 300 Searambler - Serial: 717923 How the documented serial numbers manage to differ from Moore’s actual watches is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the recordkeeping on Barth’s part was simply not great—a theory Moore seconded—or the names and numbers had become mixed up as could easily happen with any piece of diving equipment. The idea that the first two numbers of a Doxa serial number indicate the year is also not watertight at this point as we are pretty sure the T-Graph wasn’t around in 1966 when the Doxa Sub itself was in its infancy. There are other examples of vintage T-Graphs with “66” as the beginning of the serial number, so I believe Moore’s example to be correct. Omar Moore’s incredible Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph. While it isn’t the smoking gun I was hoping for—a perfect match between the serial numbers on the handwritten log and the caseback of a Doxa Sub owned by a surviving Aquanaut—we’ve done more than enough to prove the role played by Doxa during SEALAB III and after, serving as an intriguing addition to the annals of dive and military watch history. Of course, the mission to record these stories for posterity is never over, so let’s finish with a closer look at the role played potentially by Jaquet Droz during SEALAB III. Though the log lists Moore as the recipient of a “JK Droz”, he has no memory of the watch. The plot thickens… An Unexpected Contender Jaquet Droz produced dozens of dive watches during the 1960s and 70s. Could some of them have been used on SEALAB III? The records indicate that several “JK Droz” watches were also issued alongside the Doxa models. If that sounds familiar, that’s because it sounds like the modern luxury brand “Jaquet Droz” that produces intricate automaton watches. And there is indeed a connection—but let’s get it straight—aquanauts were not wearing complicated watches featuring mechanical butterflies and singing birds worth tens of thousands of dollars during SEALAB III. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a prolific watchmaker and automaton producer in the 1700s based in the Swiss city of Neuchatel. His name looms large in the Swiss Jura watchmaking region, and that makes it the perfect borrowed name for a brand—or many. Throughout the years, a few brands have resurrected the Jaquet Droz name to capitalize on his fame and imply a quality product, but many of these have a tenuous connection at best. They all originated in the same area of Switzerland, but that’s about it. It’s next to impossible to know for sure, but there are a few watch sightings in SEALAB archives that could be Jaquet Droz. The "JK Droz" watches that were issued have yet to be spotted. They could well be one of the ones pictured above or below, but we have no conclusive evidence. Given the timeframe and the role of the watch, it makes sense that the watch came from Jaquet Droz SA registered by Dr. Charles-Edouard Virchaux in 1964. The name was used to brand watches in the “Coopérative” that he ran. The Coopérative was essentially an OEM manufacturer that produced what were known as “catalog watches” that could be branded by any number of clients. (Photo Credit: Naval Undersea Museum) His in-house brand became known as Jaquet Droz, and they produced watches that looked similar to watches from a number of popular tool watch brands at the time. In the photo above, the “C” case might appear at first glance to be an Aquastar—and it may well be—but indeed Jaquet Droz also produced models resembling this design. Since the logs indicate that a few “JK Droz” watches were issued, this may be one, possibly even a standard skin diver whose bezel fell off. We may never know, but with period ads boasting that there were 1000 distinct models available, the possibility is there. Jaquet Droz might not get named along with the usual undersea living and exploration watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but that’s just it—the story is constantly being written. With these documents, two new brands are imbued with the lore of the United States Navy’s SEALAB program. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: Hollywood Watches of Espionage
SpecOps, Spies, & Military Watches In Movies Watches play a significant role in films, and an accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch...
Read MoreSpecOps, Spies, & Military Watches In Movies Watches play a significant role in films, and an accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear. This is especially true in movies focusing on the military and intelligence. Whether we’re talking about mercenaries, arms dealers, CIA Officers, or Navy SEALs, a thoughtfully selected timepiece can complement a fictional character, lending a sense of credibility and bridging the gap between reality and Hollywood—especially for those in the know. Watches in popular films are also influential. Believe it or not, we know plenty of real spies and operators whose watch choices were influenced by movies. Take for example the Omega Seamaster and its connection to James Bond. Even though Omega pays big bucks to be the watch of choice for 007, the Seamaster has still become a go-to option for real-life intelligence officers, a classic case of life imitating art and vice versa. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube channel, we discuss some of the most accurate and intriguing depictions of watches in movies relevant to our community. Enjoy episode six of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreWatch Industry SITREP - October 2024
New Omega & Tudor Watches For Military Pilots, Exploding Pagers, Stolen Astronaut Watch Recovered, & Even More Watch Crime By Benjamin Lowry The Watch Industry...
Read MoreNew Omega & Tudor Watches For Military Pilots, Exploding Pagers, Stolen Astronaut Watch Recovered, & Even More Watch Crime By Benjamin Lowry The Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, is a brief discussion of the preceding month’s watch industry news and current events related to the W.O.E. community. Based on feedback, we will ensure each story directly relates to Watches of Espionage and is not just a regurgitation of watch news you can get elsewhere. If you’re here looking for a hot take on the new Patek Philippe x Minecraft collab, you have come to the wrong place. Before we don our costumes and head out the door for Trick or Treat, this past month provided no shortage of intriguing W.O.E. stories, more watch-related crime, and even some explosive international espionage. To start, we have a rare Omega “unit watch” produced for a specialized aviation unit, once again showing the impact watches from within our community can have on the broader watch industry. Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified “Unit Watch” The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified in action. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Thanks to a few cell phone photos from Navy SEALs, more widespread coverage of Danish King Frederik’s Frømandskorpset Omega Seamaster Diver 300, and most prominently, a watch worn by a member of former President Trump’s protective detail during his assassination attempt, the cat is very much out of the bag when it comes to Omega’s formerly secretive unit watch program. However, thus far, we’ve largely seen the Seamaster as the watch of choice for Omega’s customized military projects, that is until the leak and later confirmation of a novel variant of the Speedmaster available only to US Military pilots and navigators. The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified can be ordered by qualified US military pilots and aircrew and is available with a range of different case back insignia. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Most of the details surrounding the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified come from a military pilot active on Omega Forums, including an insane action shot of the watch in the cockpit juxtaposed against the edge of the Earth’s atmosphere—very cool. In contrast to the commercially available Speedy variants, the Flight Qualified offers up a color-coded display taking inspiration from Omega’s long-gone Flightmaster. According to the pilot on Omega Forums, you must be a qualified aviator, pilot, or navigator to place an order, and the watch is available with a range of different case backs to reflect specific insignia or squadrons. Our look at Omega’s unit watch program has become one of our most popular articles, and it’s great to see the brand broadening its collection of military-only offerings to include the aviation community. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT & The Marine Nationale Following up on the original Pelagos FXD of 2021, the new Pelagos FXD GMT is yet another product of Tudor’s longstanding partnership with the Marine Nationale or French Navy. But where the original FXD was developed for diving with the combat swimmers of the Commando Hubert, the new watch was allegedly designed to meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale, the MN’s aviation component. Coming from Tudor, this was a highly publicized release, and we plan to cover the watch in greater detail but will wait until we have information beyond what is already out there in press releases. At a glance, this is another cool release from Tudor that speaks directly to our community while also feeling like a great basis for future unit watches. Exploding Lebanese Pagers & The Dangers Of Connected Tech A crowd developed outside Beirut Medical Center as the injured poured in after the pager attack. (Photo Credit: Mohamed Azakir/Reuters) Expanding beyond the reach of the watch media, the preceding weeks also produced one of the more memorable and public instances of espionage in recent memory when pagers belonging to members of Hezbollah and others exploded in a coordinated fashion on September 17th. The pagers, which were developed and inserted into Hezbollah’s supply chain by Mossad, Israel’s intelligence agency, were packed with hidden explosives and designed to explode almost in unison, causing at least 37 deaths and thousands of injuries. While the use of pagers is not widespread in 2024, Hezbollah has opted for simpler tech in recent years, forgoing cell phones and other more complex wearables that are easily compromised by Israeli intelligence. The remains of exploded pagers. (Photo Credit: Getty) What does this have to do with watches? We’ve written extensively on the counterintelligence risks of smartwatches, and this attack once again demonstrates the dangers of connected technology and the lengths intelligence services are willing to go to reach their adversaries. With this attack setting a precedent, it is conceivable that a future attack could incorporate compromising smartwatches through the insertion of explosives or other means. As the attacks in Lebanon again prove, any level of connection, even the relatively simple tech involved in a pager, is more than enough for lethal effect. Spymaster Mark Zuckerberg Joins The W.O.E. Community With A Series Of Deep Cuts A Patek, two F.P. Journes, and a JLC make for one hell of a watch enthusiast starter pack. Mark Zuckerberg is arguably the greatest spymaster of the 21st Century. Monthly active users of Meta products (Facebook, Instagram, and WhatsApp) are estimated to be up to 3 billion people, approximately 37% of the world's population, a remarkable fact. Zuck knows who you are, where you are, and your deepest secrets. He wields significant political influence with the ability to curate what you see by enforcing opaque community standards. So it is no surprise that spymaster Zuck, an individual traditionally known to wear t-shirts and hoodies, has finally caved and given into the world of Watches of Espionage. We wish him the warmest welcome to our community! Zuck was also recently spotted wearing an F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Aluminium. Zuckerberg has jumped into watch collecting with both feet and a surprising amount of taste by billionaire standards, already adding a Patek Philippe reference 5236P perpetual calendar, two F.P. Journe models, and a more obscure JLC to his collection. Of course, a watch is never just a watch, and Zuckerberg is no doubt aware of the inferences people will make based on his newfound appreciation of horology. It’s not rare for someone with billions of spare dollars to get into watch collecting, but Zuck’s approach suggests he is actually a fan of real horology or at least well-advised by knowledgeable enthusiasts or collectors. FBI Recovers Stolen Space-Worn Speedmaster & Returns It To The Smithsonian Eisele wearing two Speedmasters during training for Apollo 7. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) This isn’t a new story but rather a classic from a few years back that was recently augmented with new information thanks to a FOIA document request by Jason Leopold over at Bloomberg. We all know US astronauts were issued Omega Speedmaster watches purchased directly from the Swiss brand by NASA. Once reaching the end of their service to the Space Program, most astronauts were expected to return the watches to NASA which then donated many—including a space-flown Speedy worn by Apollo 7 astronaut Donn Eisele—to the Smithsonian. Later loaned to the Instituto Geográfico Militar, a museum in Quito, Ecuador in 1988, Eisele’s Speedmaster was stolen the following year and in the wind for almost three decades, which is where it gets interesting. Smithsonian Inspector General documents detailing the return of the Eisele’s Omega Speedmaster. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) In 2017, a tipster informed the Smithsonian they believed the missing watch—which is valued at $400k—was in private hands in Texas. The Smithsonian’s Inspector General, which is a thing, contacted the FBI who then located and met with the current owner. After verifying the serial number and the watch’s authenticity, and following a few stern words from the FBI, the dubious collector agreed to return the Omega to the Smithsonian to avoid further legal ramifications. You have to love a happy ending. Surprisingly, a total of six Speedmasters used by astronauts are still missing after having been stolen while either on loan or en route to other museums, including the Speedmaster worn by Buzz Aldrin on the moon during Apollo 11. Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Sells At Auction For $1.73M Mitchell’s GMT-Master is believed to be the first worn on the Moon. (Photo Credit: RR Auction) Keeping the space theme alive, the first Rolex worn on the moon was auctioned off a few days ago, hammering for an astounding $1.73M (before buyer's premium), well above its $400k estimate. This particular GMT-Master was worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on Apollo 14, likely underneath his space suit, while his NASA-issued Speedmaster managed primary timing duties. We at W.O.E. mostly don’t care about auction results and want nothing less than to aid in driving already insane prices with any sort of media coverage, but at times, history and the often frustrating world of auction houses intersect, and Mitchell’s GMT-Master is an important piece of not only the history of space flight but also horological history. Mitchell wearing his GMT-Master during Apollo 14. As Omega’s marketing often reminds us, they are the watchmaker of manned space flight, but that isn’t to say there aren’t other players, which is particularly interesting when astronauts chose to wear Rolex watches in space in addition to their Omegas. Ours is clearly not the first generation of Use Your Tools watch enthusiasts. Having sold for well over 1.5 million dollars, this kind of thing is out of reach for virtually all of us but incredibly cool nonetheless. We may never know, but I can't help but wonder whether it was Rolex itself which purchased the watch. The Crown is no stranger to preserving its history by buying up important vintage examples. Man Robbed Of $100k Worth Of Luxury Watches In Las Vegas The scene of the crime. (Photo Credit: AP Photo) In a real-life homage to the classic 2009 film, The Hangover, a man was robbed of approximately $100,000 worth of luxury watches from Rolex and Audemars Piguet after a very long night in Las Vegas. According to the Las Vegas Review Journal, a man and his friend were approached by two women while enjoying an adult beverage at a bar at Encore Las Vegas. After a certain amount of discussion, the women suggested the men head upstairs where further vigorous interactions were intended to take place. The victim allegedly fell asleep in his room where he had been “hanging out” with one of the women before both ladies elected to leave. In what may be the least surprising piece of news this month, the sleeping victim was relieved of several luxury watches including, “...an Audemars Piguet watch with a black face and full diamonds, valued at $80,000, a Rolex Presidential watch that features a green face and full diamonds, valued at $25,000, and a Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” watch with a black face, valued at $15,000.” Bummer. The victim also sent a Zelle transaction to someone named “Nikaila” though he conveniently has no memory of who that person could possibly be or why he would have sent them money. Some mysteries aren't meant to be solved. As it happens, this story has at least one happy ending. Las Vegas casinos have a lot of cameras and both women have since been arrested after being identified in surveillance footage from the scene. We’ve spoken at length about traveling with watches, but suffice it to say you’re probably better off leaving your $100k watch collection at home when traveling to Sin City, especially if you’re hoping to make friends. And people wonder why everyone meets on Tinder these days… Final Thoughts Whether it’s a pair of watch-thirsty ladies of the night, a new Omega unit watch for aviators, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, an astronaut’s stolen Speedy, exploding pagers, or Zuck’s new watch-collecting habit, the preceding month or so offered a plethora of intriguing events relating to the W.O.E. community. We sincerely hope you guys have as much fun reading this column as we have writing it, and please be sure to share any events we failed to mention in the comments so they can be considered for next month’s SITREP. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - September
Read MoreWatches Of Nazis, Dictators, & War Criminals - When Does Watch Collecting Cross The Line?
A Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re...
Read MoreA Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re talking about the watches of terrorists, mercenaries, war criminals, or dictators, nothing is off the table. We use watches as a medium to get to the human element; they are our prism to view the world. That said, when I heard Adolf Hitler's gold reversible watch was auctioned for $1.1 million, I paused, thinking I may have found a watch too controversial for even W.O.E. to cover. As I attempted to wrap my head around the sale of Hitler’s watch, the buyer’s motivations, and the lack of traditional watch media coverage, I found myself wading into a more complicated conversation. Watches serve as mementos, objects that transcend their utilitarian value by representing history’s best and worst moments. But for collectors of historically charged timepieces, where is the line? Should anyone be comfortable buying, owning, or wearing watches associated with some of the most evil people to walk the Earth? Let’s explore. Watches, Warfare, & Swiss-Neutrality Watches are inextricably linked with warfare and many premier luxury brands owe their designs, legitimacy, and very existence to providing tools to warfighters. Iconic brands like IWC and Panerai often tout their military provenance as tools of choice for pilots and combat swimmers. But what the marketing departments (understandably) downplay is that some of those pilots wearing IWC watches were German Luftwaffe (Nazis) and Panerai’s Italian frogmen were Decima Flottiglia MAS, early amphibious commandos responsible for sinking Allied ships in WWII. The truth is complicated. Some of the most prominent Swiss brands have willingly provided custom watches to murderous dictators, including North Korean Kim Il-Sung’s Omega Constellation, Syrian President Hafez Al-Assad’s Rolex Submariner 5513, and a series of Patek Philippe models made for Libyan strongman Muammar Gaddafi. Even by conservative estimates, these men are responsible for hundreds of thousands of innocent deaths, yet their watches continue to fetch significant sums. Auction houses and dealers have a clear ideological allegiance: money. But what about the collectors buying these watches? Nazi Watches? WTF? With the above-listed issues in mind, some watches are too controversial for us to touch, most notably the watches of Nazis. In July of 2022, a watch reportedly belonging to Adolf Hitler auctioned for $1.1M at a Maryland auction house, Alexander Historical Auctions. The gold watch was reportedly manufactured by German watchmaker Andreas Huber with a movement from LeCoultre, now Jaeger-LeCoultre, and bears Hitler's initials (AH), a swastika, and the date of his appointment as Chancellor of Germany: January 30, 1933. The watch was allegedly liberated from Hitler's residence by French soldier Sergeant Robert Mignot as a “spoil of war.” The buyer? Reportedly an anonymous Jewish bidder in Europe, a detail that would not be significant if not for the fact that the man who wore this watch was responsible for the genocide of millions of Jews during World War II. When I heard this news I cringed, why would someone want to own a watch belonging to (arguably) the most evil person to ever live? I am by no means superstitious, but I wouldn't want that thing in my house, let alone on my wrist. But the news of the auction led me down a rabbit hole of introspection on the ethical dilemmas of watch collecting. When does something controversial cross over into taboo? At what point does the preservation of history turn into the promotion of hate? It's complicated and highly subjective. Controversial Timepieces I own and wear several “controversial” timepieces including a Blackwater Breitling Emergency, a Rhodesian military-issued Roamer, and a South African Navy-issued Tudor MilSub. The Tudor Submariner and Roamer are byproducts of apartheid-era conflicts, a controversial topic by any measurement. Blackwater is one of the most controversial private military contractors and also conjures up strong emotions for many. These pieces are more than the sum of their parts, they are wearable artifacts of specific periods in time and for me indicative of historical significance rather than ideological affiliation. I believe one can own them and not condone the behavior of the original end-user (for the record I am against apartheid in South Africa). Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 To complicate matters more, I recently considered purchasing a Rolex Submariner 5513 made for the late former President of Syria Hafez Al-Assad. President Al-Assad was responsible for numerous atrocities, including the 1982 Hama massacre when the Baathist government besieged the town of Hama for 27 days, resulting in an estimated 10,000 to 40,000 civilian deaths. Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: HairSpring) Why would I want to own this piece? Is it really that different from Hitler's watch? Having spent much of my life living and working in the Arab world, including Syria, something about the red Arabic signature on the dial speaks to me. Of course, this desire is by no means an endorsement of the Assad regime. On the contrary, much of my time at CIA was spent working against individuals like Assad. For me, it comes down to collecting context. By default, I think we should take a nuanced understanding of history, and exploring a topic, or a watch, does not equate to endorsement of the subject. Provenance & Watches Of Notable Historical Figures Marlon Brando's GMT-Master on set for Apocalypse Now, 1979. “Provenance” is a term used by collectors and auction houses to document the history of a watch’s ownership, modifications, and service history. Whether Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona or Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT, watches with notable provenance fetch premiums as they transcend from “just a watch” to a historical artifact. Military watches are no different and those with documented provenance to a specific individual or unit can increase the value by a multiple of two or three. When it comes to celebrities and other benign “famous people,” the inherent value is widely recognized. But when you get into the gray area of watch collecting, the “value” of provenance can vary based on one's ties to what that item represents. My prized possession (grail watch) is a South African-issued Tudor MilSub reference 7016 from approximately 1974. While I have no ties to the Apartheid-era South African Navy, I have spent much of my life living and working in Africa and have a particular interest in Tudor MilSubs. The provenance of this watch has a greater value for me than the average collector. Similarly, Israeli Defense Force (IDF) issued Tudor 7928s likely have a greater value to one with ties to Israel whereas those opposed to Israel may view these watches with disgust. So What Type Of Person Would Buy Hitler’s Watch? My initial thought was a neo-Nazi sympathizer, a Bond villain character who wants to wear the watch in his underground lair as he pets his hairless cat. And while this may be the case, the truth, and motivations are likely more complicated. According to at least one report from the Washington Post, the auction house president claims the watch was purchased by an “anonymous European Jewish bidder.” Is it possible that an individual spent over a million dollars on this item to remember the defeat of the Nazis? As uncomfortable as this may sound, the answer may be yes. On the shelf in my office is a WWII-era-German (read Nazi) Eagle Claw Scabbard and Mauser-Werke Luftwaffe pistol, both war trophies brought home from the European theater by my grandfather. These items are by no means intended to honor the Nazis and to be clear as an individual and a platform we are anti-Nazi. On the contrary, these items commemorate what my grandfather and the Greatest Generation accomplished, defeating Nazi expansion in World War II. Would I purchase them at auction? No, but they do hold personal value. Watch Collecting On A Spectrum Our willingness to preserve history through the collection of timepieces occurs on a spectrum. Most are willing to buy and wear a new military-inspired watch. Even pacifists can appreciate them for their connection to the past. WWII Allied watches like the Dirty Dozen are also generally uncontroversial given the belief that the Allies were on the right side of history. But once you pass this, the value of the provenance is subjective. Auction Houses Google the name of any major auction house and you are sure to find at least one significant controversy including “fake” watches, stolen artifacts, or items of religious or cultural importance. The trade is morally complicated, and auction houses are incentivized to maximize monetary gain. The fact that Hitler's watch was sold at a relatively obscure auction house suggests that the larger auction houses passed on these items, finding them too controversial. This raises another rhetorical ethical question, is it ok for auction houses to profit off of these sales? Conclusion Would I want to own Hitler's watch? Absolutely not. Despite what is written above, I still believe this watch is a physical representation of pure evil. It belongs buried in a tomb or maybe in a museum honoring the holocaust victims. That said, collecting controversial watches should not be immediately shunned and we should have an open conversation on the ethical considerations at each level. Engaging in thoughtful discussions about the implications of collecting these items and considering their historical impact is essential for navigating this complex issue. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Read MoreAsk Watches Of Espionage Anything, Part IV
Civilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get...
Read MoreCivilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces, and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can—and probably will at some point—serve as stand-alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any other questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll do our best to answer them in a future article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I”, “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II”, and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part III”. Is it OK for civilians to wear military watches or does this qualify as “stolen valor”? (Photo Credit: Panerai) Many watch brands and references are centered around a specific narrative and culture of professionals: the Omega Speedmaster and space exploration, the Rolex Submariner and diving, and IWC’s aviation watches. With this marketing, there comes some form of cosplaying or larping and in general, this is fine and part of the fun of the passion. I will likely never travel to space, but I like the idea of wearing a watch that has and has been designed for that purpose. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Additionally, we have covered many military-inspired brands like Bremont, Marathon, and Sangin, which are intended for use by active duty and former military members. While they maintain a strong customer base in these communities, of course not all of the customers are tier-one operators. Overall, there is no problem with this and it is by no means stolen valor. “Military-inspired” is synonymous with tough gear that is meant to be used. However, I do struggle with commercially available watches with a branch or unit insignia on the dial. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Top Gun, Marathon’s USMC GSAR, and of course Panerai’s “Navy SEAL” watches. While I still don’t think this is stolen valor as such and don’t have a problem with people wearing them, I personally would not want to wear a watch with an insignia on the dial that I have no direct connection to, i.e. a unit I did not serve in. (Photo Credit: Marathon Watch) With “unit watches,” it gets more complicated and, in my opinion, depends on the specific unit watch and how much time has elapsed since it was worn by those who earned it. In general, I think watches with a specific unit insignia on the dial or caseback should be worn by those who earned them, not those who can afford to pay the absurd premium they command at auction. Customized Tudors, Omega, Rolex, and even Breitlings have sold for well over $40,000, a remarkable number. That said, at a certain point these watches do become collectibles and it is fine to collect them. Where that line is, is highly subjective. What was your go-to EDC bag when you were at CIA? W.O.E. in the Middle East, Sandstorm EDC bag. As a Case Officer operating overseas, your job is to recruit spies and steal secrets. This calling requires frequent travel and operational activity in a range of environments, from diplomatic functions in European capitals to dark alleys in war-torn countries. A good EDC bag should support your persona (cover) and not immediately peg you as an American. This obviously rules out the tacti-cool bag with Velcro for your Punisher morale patch. While I was at CIA, I relied on “issued backpacks” that were purchased overseas and modified by CIA as well as man purses I acquired myself, most notably the Canvas Andrew Work Bag from Sandstorm, Kenya, a bag I still use regularly today. Sandstorm Kenya The fictitious representation of “Q” in James Bond is largely a figment of Hollywood imagination, but gear and spy gadgets have been an integral part of espionage since the early days of the Office of Strategic Services. Prior to an overseas assignment, CIA Case Officers visit an obscure warehouse outside of Washington D.C. and are issued a range of gear from disguises and backpacks. For most assignments, the gear is not as exciting as it sounds, but there are some deep disguises available, as made famous by former Chief of Disguise for CIA, Jonna Mendez. Case Officer’s EDC The key for EDC bags at CIA is to use something that won’t make you stick out as an American, i.e. the ubiquitous North Face and Patagonia backpack. I spent much of my overseas time living and working in Africa and fell in love with a boutique manufacturer called Sandstorm, which makes canvas and leather bags out of repurposed safari tent material. The bags are durable and classy, at home in the back of a dusty Land Cruiser just as much as a first-class lounge in Amsterdam. They aren’t cheap, but nothing good is. If you are really trying to blend in, or at least not stick out, my advice is to buy clothing and bags locally, or at least outside of the United States or your home country. Save the tacti-cool bags for range day and family trips to Chucky Cheese. Many microbrands you cover use watches or parts made in China, is this ok? I’m a red-blooded American and in an ideal world, all tools would be made in America, watches made in Switzerland, and Whiskey distilled in Tennessee. That said, with the decline in American/British manufacturing and watchmaking, the reality is there are some great watches (and tools) that are designed in the US/UK, but manufactured in China and East Asia. In my opinion, many of these watches offer great value for the customer and I own some of them. Elliot Brown Holton on Glomar Explorer strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Obviously, there is a stigma with “Made in China” and in some ways, this is warranted but the fact is that the country, and the region in general, has specialized in high-quality manufacturing at a cost-effective price. The computer I am writing this on, and the device you are reading this on, are made in China. There has been an effort to “reshore” manufacturing and watchmaking back to the United States, but much of these efforts have come up lacking, with customer complaints about price and quality control. The key here is transparency. Designed/assembled/sewn in the USA can mean very different things and many manufacturers work to obscure the origin of products with clever language. I’m not saying that brands should lead with “Made in China,” or stamp the case back, but they should be at least open about it. (Photo Credit: Atelier DE GRIFF) There is a lot of smoke and mirrors in the watch and EDC industry and even “Swiss-made” means that the watch is assembled and tested in Switzerland but not that all the parts originate there. Legally, “Swiss Made” means “60% of production costs are generated in Switzerland, and at least 50% by value of all components is Swiss-made”, which gives a lot of wiggle room. While I won’t dime them out here, there are plenty of “Swiss watches” with significant inputs from China. When you’re traveling abroad as a civilian with an Agency background, what is your EDC? Case Officer’s EDC, just the essentials. First of all, I think people put way too much thought into “Every Day Carry” and not enough into mindset, training, and physical fitness. I am a minimalist and generally carry the same thing I did at the Agency, no crazy whizzbang tactical tools, just the essentials: pen and paper, folding knife, over $300 in cash, passport, tourniquets, and a Surefire Defender flashlight. An external battery is a necessity also. Check out a past Dispatch on “CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC” for more on my reasoning and experience with these tools. My personal EDC hasn't changed much in two decades and it likely won't change anytime soon. Assuming I can’t afford the real thing, how do you feel about homage watches as opposed to “fake” or “replica” watches? We wrote an article about the counterfeit watch industry (Read HERE) and several people asked what my thoughts are on “homage” watches like a Seiko modified to look like a Rolex Submariner or GMT. I don’t necessarily have a problem with these, but I would never buy one personally. It's hard for me to determine where the line between homage and fake is and I wouldn’t someone to spot me from across the room thinking I am wearing a Rolex, then come to find out it's a homage. That said, there are some “homage brands” like Tornek-Rayville, Benrus, and Vertex, that essentially brought these brands back to life, and that is something I can get behind (I own a Tornek and love it). (Photo Credit: Modbrand) Congrats on your first video and the launch of the W.O.E. YouTube channel. How did you come up with this unique format? Our core competency at W.O.E. is storytelling, offering readers/viewers insight into our community through the prism of watches. The goal is to inform and entertain and while long-form articles (ie the W.O.E. Dispatch) are our preferred medium, the sad fact is that most people don’t read more than a couple paragraphs, preferring to take in bite-sized chunks of engaging video and photographic content. We knew video was inevitable and have been working on this for over a year. The school solution in launching a YouTube channel is to have an influencer sit in front of a ring light and offer spicy clickbait takes and “Top 10 lists” of the best watches. At W.O.E. we always aim to do something different so we decided to take the concept of our Dispatch articles and convert them into mini-episodes. This concept will evolve as we gain more resources. We have been overwhelmed with the response and plan to continue to release an episode every 2 weeks through the end of the year. Check out our first four videos HERE. What’s the best spy movie from a former Case Officer’s point of view? I like thrillers/spy movies as much as the next guy. Jason Bourne, James Bond, and Red Sparrow are all fun and entertaining experiences, but they are far from the reality of true espionage work which is months of hard work and lots of writing, punctuated by exciting moments and “cool” operations. The fact is most intelligence work is boring and if the movies were accurate . . . they wouldn’t be that interesting. Spy Game is one of my favorite movies and is entertaining, but also has threads of truth, particularly the training and mentorship of Tom Bishop, played by Brad Pitt. It’s still Hollywood, but a great watch, nonetheless. Argo and Charlie Wilson's War are interesting looks at historic CIA operations, however, I would recommend starting with the books. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Good Shepherd capture the methodical aspect of the wilderness of mirrors of the spy world, but also aren’t as exciting as the Bourne series. The Recruit is an interesting look at the training pipeline at “The Farm” and one that many from my generation watched multiple times prior to training. (Photo Credit: Black Hawk Down) Movies like Zero Dark Thirty and Black Hawk Down are less historically accurate, but interesting watches nonetheless. Regardless, if you want to learn about these events and what really happened, I would recommend reading the books first. Our W.O.E. Reading List (read HERE) is a great place to start. Last but certainly not least, Spies Like Us is a comedy with zero historical accuracy but does have a real cult following in CIA. “Doctor” can be heard in just about every CIA Station around the globe. Don’t sleep on it. If I’m down to two or three watches that all meet my criteria and price range, how do I decide? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) One of the most common questions I get is people looking for help trying to decide between two or three watches they want to buy. Sometimes they are very different—like a Tudor FXD and a Breitling Aerospace—and sometimes they are similar references from the same brand. The answer is always the same, go with your gut. Continue to watch videos and read about the watches, but most importantly try them on at the store or borrow one from your watch friends. This is such a personal decision and nothing I say should impact your choice. Ultimately, go with your gut, and your budget. Is there any watch that’s a grail for you, something you’d trade your entire collection for? W.O.E.’s South African-issued Tudor Submariner reference 7016. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Yes, no. A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it. Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It’s more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Pictured above is my South African-issued Tudor Submariner ref 7016 from approximately 1974, which is (was?) my grail watch. I acquired this piece from Ross Povey last year and it is my “prized possession,” I will never sell it. A Rolex Milsub is another grail for me, but I wouldn’t trade my entire collection for one. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Moving forward, there are plenty of watches I would love to acquire including a Rolex MilSub and an Israeli-issued Shayetet 13 Tudor Sub 7928. That said, there is nothing I would trade my entire collection for. Many of my watches have personal value that transcends monetary value. The Breitling Aerospace I received from King Abdullah of Jordan (Read HERE) is probably worth a few thousand on the market, but to me, it is priceless. I have too many memories with that piece to let it go. How do I buy a watch for my wife? (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) This is a tricky one. I have purchased Mrs. W.O.E. several watches including a Cartier Tank, Black Bay 58, and a Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse. Despite my best efforts to woo her into the world of watch nerds, she couldn't care less. The fact is that women have more competition for their attention (and money) than men. While this is a generalization I am probably going to catch some smoke for, women are bombarded by messaging for and tend to covet handbags, shoes, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces whereas men traditionally have fewer personal items to consider. The watch industry has been desperate to acquire women customers and has made some headway, but it's still heavily tilted toward men. My advice is simple, bring your significant other to a watch store to try on a range of watches. If something speaks to them, then follow that thread. If not, don’t push it. What is your favorite strap and why? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) When it comes to W.O.E. products, I am our first customer and if it's not something I would use, then it doesn’t get made. That said, each of our product lines is very discrete and developed for different use cases. Just because you like one of our straps doesn’t mean you will like them all. The Glomar Explorer probably gets the most wrist time, particularly in warmer months. It’s such a versatile strap and works particularly well with both the Blue and Black FXDs, but also virtually any tool watch. With the new tightened strap keeper, there is no chance it is coming off your wrist. Sizing can greatly vary on these straps, depending on the watch and your wrist size. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Second, I am a big fan of leather on field watches and divers and wear the Jedburgh, particularly on my older vintage pieces and watches like the Arabic Seiko. From the start, it is a very comfortable strap with a low profile. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Lastly, I love all of our Five Eyes straps and wear them regularly. But when it comes to single-pass straps, I often defer to our past collaborations with Zulu Alpha and recently have been wearing the W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 a lot. They are expensive, there is no way to sugarcoat that, but the quality of the hardware and fabric are night and day in my opinion. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The main point here is to find a strap that works for you. There are so many variables in watches, wrist size, and preferences, that there is no one size fits all. I encourage you to read the (over 1,000) reviews on each product page and see what other people's experiences have been. Remember, it’s much easier to buy and try a lot of different straps than it is with watches… What current Rolex model family would you buy assuming no wait list and cost isn’t an issue? I am a big fan of Rolex, particularly vintage and neo-vintage Submariners and GMTs. I am a simple man and give me any Sub or GMT with an aluminum bezel and drilled lug holes and I will be happy. I have “expressed interest” in the new Black/Gray Rolex GMT Master II, and would love to get one, but I am not losing sleep over it. That said, the one piece I would kill for (not actually) is the Titanium Yachtmaster. However, these pieces are almost impossible to get and I am not willing to pay the excessive premium on the secondary market or play silly games with ADs to get one. I am ok with that. Watch buying advice? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Still, the most common question we get is on watch buying advice from newbies and experts alike. While the W.O.E. platform is geared towards telling stories from our community, we have considerable resources to answer these questions. Please check out the following articles if you are new to the world of watches. Advice for Buying a Watch Best Watches Under $5,000 - Ask the Experts Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts Best Military Watches If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. – This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreThe Other Watches of James Bond
Despite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links...
Read MoreDespite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links between 007, Rolex, and Omega are well-established and contribute to the lore surrounding two of history’s most important tool watches, namely the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster. But wherever you fall on the Rolex vs. Omega debate for 007, the charismatic secret agent’s watch history is much more diverse, including several brands and watches you may have never imagined. We’ve theorized our picks for a more realistic James Bond in the past (read HERE), but what brands and watches have been worn by Bond onscreen that didn’t come from the hallowed halls of Omega or the Crown? To explore the lesser-known watches of James Bond, we invited Caleb Daniels, a longtime friend of the site and subject matter expert on all things James Bond, for an in-depth look at Bond’s other watches. For those interested in Bond’s considerable history with firearms, Caleb has a new book coming out with our friends at Headstamp Publishing called LICENSED TROUBLESHOOTER: The Guns of James Bond. Beyond Omega & Rolex, The Watches Worn by 007 Over The Years By Caleb Daniels In two previous Dispatches, the discussion around the watches of James Bond has focused on the two most prevalent brands of the franchise, Rolex and Omega. There are, however, many other timepieces that have been included in the cinematic world of James Bond, and this Dispatch will highlight these watches from varying manufacturers and their stories. Some, you may know. Others appear only in brief sequences and are often missed but deserve equal celebration. Gruen Precision 510 (Or Maybe Not) - Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, Diamonds are Forever (Watch Photo Credit: Second Hand Horology) In 1962’s Dr. No, when James Bond utters the famous line introducing himself for the first time, in a dim casino, while lighting a cigarette nonchalantly, it’s not a Rolex on his wrist. Rather, it is a common watch for the era, an understated and relatively small gold dress watch. Legend has it that this was a personal watch of Connery’s. Further, this watch would appear time and again throughout his tenure as 007, including in From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, and Diamonds Are Forever. If speculation is to be believed (and it ought not to be) the watch in question is a Gruen Precision 510, a diminutive 34mm, 17-jewel watch with a sub-seconds register. Or at least that’s the story on most style blogs and mainstream outlets, including Esquire and GQ. Unfortunately, this model selection is entirely speculative, as at no time on screen is the watch visible enough to confirm any definitive identifiable details. In 2013, Dell Deaton “confirmed” the model as accurate on James Bond Watches Blog, leading to absurdly overpriced listings of a relatively simple timepiece. A Gruen Precision 510 similar to the one Bond could have worn in several films. Ironically, Connery’s watch could be an Omega based on the case construction and lug shape. If that’s the case, Omega by sheer happenstance was the first ever on-screen Bond watch, a monumentally big deal if true. Despite the uncertainty around the piece, I appreciate the lower-priced Gruen examples—as little as $30—as a quiet Bond nod and adore the finished details. The questionable origin story notwithstanding, the brand has been deeply ingrained in the Bond community, and I enjoy seeing it on the wrist. Tragically, we have yet to identify this watch, but if the Connery estate ever confirms the model, expect to see yet another classic and inexpensive timepiece explode in value. Breitling Top Time - Thunderball “Here we have a Geiger counter, useful and unobstructive, the sweep hand takes the radioactive count, it's waterproof of course” - Q to Bond in Thunderball. (Watch Photo Credit: Christie’s Auction House) Sketchy dudes wear Breitling. W.O.E. doesn’t make the rules but just keeps getting this one completely right. In one of my all-time favorite films, Thunderball, 007 dons a Breitling Top Time encapsulated in an oversized cushion case as he hunts for missing nuclear weapons stolen by SPECTRE. His Breitling, in a wild turn of events, is equally as sketchy as the man who wears it, as its Q Branch modifications include the addition of a Geiger counter to aid Bond in his mission. The oversized case was designed by the Valley Tool Company, as commissioned by EON’s art department. Only one watch was ever manufactured, making this an incredibly rare piece. The actual watch is infamous for going missing for decades, only to be found at a flea market, purchased for roughly $33, and in 2013 it fetched $103,875 at Christie’s. The Top Time dial lends itself to the Q Branch aesthetic, with the two silver sub-registers that could just as easily actually be a Geiger counter. Bond wears this watch most notably with his blue striped camp shirt and cream linen trousers while visiting Emilio Largo’s oceanside home, Palmyra. It’s in this sequence that Connery casually shoots a 12-gauge Browning A5 from the hip while trap-shooting over the water, and without looking, dusts the clay pigeon. This scene is made even cooler by the very real recoil of the shotgun—it’s likely that Connery actually fired a live 12 gauge round over the ocean from the hip. Sketchy watch, Sketchy dude, epic film. Bond - “Seems terribly difficult…” [shoots without looking] “Why no, it isn’t, is it?” Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 - Live and Let Die With Roger Moore, a new Bond was brought onto the scene, and unlike with Lazenby, a conscious effort was made by EON Productions to market Moore as his own version of the character. Live and Let Die’s marketing portrays Bond with several Smith & Wesson revolvers, most notably the chrome-plated .44 Magnum Model 29. Moore’s Bond also doesn’t smoke cigarettes anymore, he prefers cigars, and bourbon to his martinis. While Moore does wear a Rolex throughout his films, his Bond also wore a variety of digital timepieces, hallmarks of the quartz revolution and a new age of timekeeping. Live and Let Die opens with Bond being issued a new Rolex, with a buzz-saw bezel and a magnetic personality, but in putting it on, he first removes his Hamilton Pulsar P2, highlighting the timeliness of the Bond films. Pulsar released the P2 in 1973, the same year as the film, and it was the first successfully marketed and manufactured digital watch. The Pulsar’s portrayal in the film is brief but serves as a clear example of EON’s concern for putting daylight between Connery and Lazenby, the Bonds of old, and Moore, a 007 for a new generation. Bond’s digital Pulsar had glowing red digital indices that appeared only when the user tapped a button on the side of the case. Hamilton recently brought this model back, with the most notable difference being their name on the case instead of Pulsar. The Seikos of Roger Moore Moore’s affinity for new, cutting-edge watches did not end in Live and Let Die. Throughout the 12 years and (00)7 Bond movies, there are (00)7 nonstandard watches worn, including the aforementioned Pulsar and six Seikos. The Seiko watches selected work well inside the Moore era, which leaned on the campier tones more often than not. Like so many Bond watches, the Seikos get gratuitous screen time as gadgets on many occasions, beginning with the Seiko 0764 LC of The Spy Who Loved Me. Seiko 0764 LC - The Spy Who Loved Me In the opening sequence of The Spy Who Loved Me, James Bond is rather cozy in front of a fire, only to be interrupted by his timepiece that prints out the message “007 TO REPORT.” Bond quickly dons his canary yellow ski suit, departs the cabin, battles KGB agents on the slopes, and opens the title song sequence by skiing off a cliff face and opening a rather overt Union Jack parachute. Unlike his Pulsar, Bond wears this watch throughout the entire film. Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar - Moonraker Promotional shot for Moonraker focusing on the Seiko. It is an interesting selection that feels a bit visually incongruent with the classic country aesthetics of Moore’s sartorial selection in Moonraker. The full-face digital display is in harsh contrast to his brown donegal tweed suit and the chateau atmosphere of the Drax estate. For all the deliberation we have had in previous Dispatches on product placement, the forceful inclusion of this watch in the place of the previously worn Rolex 5513 is an error I cannot defend. Once again, this watch is a gadget used by Bond. In this case, it conceals an explosive that Bond and Ms. Goodnight use to escape the Moonraker launch platform. Billboards for this watch are visible in the film as well, highlighting the clear partnership between EON and Seiko. Seiko H357 Dual Display - For Your Eyes Only Screen capture from For Your Eyes Only. The Dual Display seen in For Your Eyes Only is an interesting design, with a digital screen above a more traditional analog dial. The watch is rarely seen on-screen but does get a shining moment at the end of the film. Bond receives a message on his watch in red letters, scrolling across the screen reading “COME IN 007.” The film ends with Bond dropping the watch next to a parrot, who speaks to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (an impersonator) in Bond’s place, using the watch as a communication device. Is there anything more Moore than that? Seiko 7549-7009 Professional Quartz Diver (Golden Tuna) - For Your Eyes Only (Watch Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) The aforementioned Dual Display is one of two Seikos worn by Bond in For Your Eyes Only. Bond also wears his Golden Tuna while searching the St. George wreck for the missing ATAC (Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator) device. The Golden Tuna is worn against the canary yellow dive suit, outside the sleeve, and on full display. The black titanium nitride-coated case and black rubber strap are in stark contrast to his brightly colored suit, but the gold bezel and accents are complementary to his louder dive getup. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Tuna is rather famous outside of Bond as it was the first dive watch ever produced with a quartz movement. The Tuna is also notable for its titanium case and is still highly regarded. Seiko TV Watch DXA-001 - Octopussy In the 1983 film Octopussy, Bond introduces us to the TV Watch during the standard issue Q Branch scene. 007 walks up to the watch and mounted camera combination and asks Q about it while messing with the camera, notably zooming in on the chest of a nearby MI6 employee, checking his work on the watch’s display, quipping, “Perfect image, Q.” Aside from that tongue-in-cheek, signature Moore moment, the TV Watch is used in the climax of the film. As Bond and Q descend on Kamal Khan’s palace, they use cameras mounted below their hot air balloon to view the ongoing battle and to locate Octopussy. Bond watches the video feed on his timepiece. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Seiko TV Watch features a 1.2” LCD in a standard Seiko case. All UHF and VHF channels can be viewed with the aid of an external receiver which affixes to the top of the watch case. The watch function is found in the thin banner above the TV screen, similar in style to the previously shown Dual Display. Seiko G757 Sports 100 - Octopussy (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) This watch’s unique display design makes for a perfect Q Branch gadget. In an earlier Q Branch scene, it is implied that this model is the standard issue 00 operative watch, as Q notes that, “the homing device is compatible with the standard issue radio finder in your watch.” Bond uses this tracking device and the mini-map on his watch face to locate the Fabergé egg. Bond Lifestyle notes that this watch is the most visible Seiko in any of the films, and gets a healthy amount of close-ups throughout the film. A View to a Kill - A Trio Of Quiet Seikos Moore’s last outing as James Bond features three Seiko models, each with relatively brief moments, and as such they’ll be all addressed together here, for the sake of completionism. Seiko 7A28 7020 Quartz Chronograph Bond wears this white-dialed chronograph after evading capture in a ski chase and climbing aboard his iceberg-shaped submarine. The watch gets its moment in the sun as Bond flirts with yet another coworker. Seiko 6923-8080 Quartz SPD094 (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The gold dial dress quartz is only shown briefly but is worn by Bond during his time at Zorin’s home. The colorway and design are clearly Seiko’s budget take on the iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. Stills show that at one point Moore accidentally wore (or perhaps wore due to prop unavailability) his personal Datejust in place of the Seiko. Seiko “Arnie” H558-5000 Another Seiko dive watch is worn twice on screen by 007, first during the ski escape sequence (which causes a continuity error for the submarine scene) and later during the Eiffel Tower chase with May Day. In addition, the so-called Seiko “Arnie” also features on the wrist of a nefarious KGB agent in the film, providing a better screen capture than we were able to get for Bond himself. Product Placement & Seiko Beginning in The Spy Who Loved Me, the credits of Bond films note “Seiko Watches” as a partner. Unfortunately little is known about the behind-the-scenes reasons for this partnership, but the commercial nature of it is very clear, as shown by the advertisements of the period. Bond advertising and watches have a history spanning back to the Connery era and Rolex, and of course throughout recent years and the Omega partnership. TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver Ref. 980.031- The Living Daylights The last non-Omega or Rolex worn on screen by 007 was the seldom-seen TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver sported by Timothy Dalton in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and its appearance was once again tragically brief. The pre-titles show the 00 division parachuting into Gibraltar for a training exercise. Kitted out in 1980s SAS-style black tactical attire from head to toe, Bond also wears the black PVD cased watch on the matching bracelet. The only pop of color is the dial, which is fully lumed, leading to a soft yellow-green coloration. TAG Heuer released an updated variant of the Night Diver in 2021, with several prominent design modifications, making the new watch hardly reminiscent of the original. Bond’s watches, like his sidearms, are an iconic part of the character. Despite the miscellaneous Q Branch gadgets that crop up in many films, Bond often depends primarily on his wits, watch, and PPK to save the world. To that end, the timepieces of 007 will always be a cornerstone of the character, and if and when Bond 26 ever appears, I look forward to seeing what is on the wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bond: A Case for Omega
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube Episode: The Watches Of US Presidents & 2024 Candidates
What Watches Teach Us About Political Messaging, Propaganda, & Manipulation In one month, the American public will elect the next President of the United States....
Read MoreWhat Watches Teach Us About Political Messaging, Propaganda, & Manipulation In one month, the American public will elect the next President of the United States. In honor of another historic presidential race, our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel discusses the small but significant role played by the watches worn by US Presidents and the current candidates for Commander-in-Chief. Whether it’s Donald Trump’s collection of solid gold luxury watches, a Cartier on the wrist of Vice President Kamala Harris, or a humble Timex on the wrists of George W. Bush or Bill Clinton, watches are a subtle tool to communicate with constituents and influence potential voters. To be clear, W.O.E. is an apolitical platform. Our analysis of political figures and their watches is presented as an informational exercise not intended to align with one side or the other. If seeing a particular president or their watch upsets you, we recommend you take some deep breaths and consider spending more time outside. Don’t let the internet ruin your day. No matter where you fall politically, it’s important to keep in mind that every aspect of a president or candidate’s appearance—including the watch on their wrist—is carefully curated and intended to send a message. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military
Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...
Read MoreAffordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.
Read MoreAnnouncement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book
Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage...
Read MoreShare Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage is in the early stages of working on a coffee table book that will offer a closer look at some of your favorite stories from the Dispatch as well as completely new content, all supported by brand-new professional photography from our regular photographic contributor and publisher, James Rupley. A US Navy UDT-issue Tudor Submariner 7928 from W.O.E.'s personal collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) As always, everything we do is for, with, and through the community. Our book will be no different, and we are looking for individuals with interesting watches to feature in our first printed publication. If you’re in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area or willing to travel there and have an interesting watch you wore operationally in the military, special operations, or intelligence, we’d love to hear from you. Here’s what we’re looking for: Military-issued watches. Unit watches i.e. custom Tudor, Omega, Bremont, Breitling, etc… Mechanical timepieces that were worn in an operational capacity. If any of these apply to any of the watches in your collection, please let us know by completing this brief survey HERE. As always, thank you for your support. -W.O.E.
Read MoreVeterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage
The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a...
Read MoreThe World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a slew of watch-related platforms, the internet has made the age-old art and science of horology cool once again. Ironically, as more people enter the hobby, the global watch industry faces a labor crisis. Becoming a skilled watchmaker is no joke, and there are simply not enough qualified watchmakers to go around. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss the watchmaker shortage, including how we got here, what the industry is doing about it, and a unique opportunity for veterans who want to get involved. It may not feel like an obvious choice, but if you’re a disabled veteran in search of a new career, watchmaking may be one to consider. An organization called the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative provides all but completely free initial watchmaker training, credentialing, and even help with job placement. What Is A Watchmaker? (Photo Credit: VWI) Watches date back to the 16th Century, and watchmakers were artisans who hand-fabricated every component of every single watch they produced. By the early 1900s, standardization took over, with watch companies focusing on mass production using interchangeable components. A watchmaker from the Swiss Vallée de Joux. (Photo Credit: Musée de l’Elysée, Lausanne) Watchmaking changed from a largely European artisanal cottage industry to a broader technical field where budding watchmakers could learn the ways of assembling, maintaining, and repairing watches and “calibers”, which is what watch nerds and the French call the movement. Until the 1960s, watches were virtually all powered by mechanical means. That, coupled with the fact that almost everyone used to wear a watch, meant watchmaking was a small but legitimate career field supported by trade schools, apprenticeship programs, and infrastructure providing aftermarket components for servicing or repair. The Quartz Crisis To Today The release of the Seiko Astron spurred the Quartz Crisis, the effects of which directly influenced the current watchmaker shortage. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While there were numerous earlier efforts with electronic timekeeping, Seiko’s 1969 release of the Astron launched what came to be known as the “Quartz Crisis”, a major contributor to today’s watchmaker shortage. Bad news for watchmakers, quartz calibers were easier to mass produce and would quickly become far less expensive than their mechanical counterparts. Some estimates indicate the number of watchmakers employed just in Switzerland dropped by over 60% during the 1970s while the Swiss watch industry as a whole saw its employment decline from 90,000 at its peak to just 28,000 during the same period. Inexpensive digital quartz watches from Japan like the Casio Casiotron of 1974 emperiled the Swiss industry like never before. (Photo Credit: Casio USA) As the need for watchmaking declined with the rise of quartz, the once-proud trade of watchmaking became less profitable and attractive and the watchmaking needs of those who still preferred mechanical timekeeping were increasingly met by an aging population of watchmakers, a trend that continues into modern times. The numbers are staggering. A watchmaker at work at Patek Philippe's "The Art Of Watches" exhibition in 2017. (Photo Credit: CNN/Getty) According to Jordan Ficklin, the executive director of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), today there are an estimated 4,000 watchmakers in the United States, a decrease of as much as 90% compared to the 1960s. Of course, there are fewer mechanical watches out and about compared to that period, but the shortage still means backlogs for watch repairs stretch into the years in some instances. Becoming A Watchmaker In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) As internet-based watch enthusiasm has spurred a modern renaissance for mechanical watches at virtually all levels of the industry, the supply of newly minted watchmakers has failed to keep pace. Every year, hundreds of watchmakers who were trained before the Quartz Crisis retire with only a handful of qualified replacements stepping up to take up the reins. But let’s say you’re interested in watches and seriously considering taking up watchmaking as a career choice, how does one become a watchmaker in the first place? At least in the United States, there are essentially two options. A budding watchmaker can either attend a formal school—and there are only a few in the US—or complete an apprenticeship program. There are only a handful of certified watchmaking schools in the United States including Gem City College School of Horology in Quincy, Illinois (Photo Credit: AWCI) With a formal watchmaking school, students pay to attend a program lasting from two to four years. The schools also typically work with brands and other entities to employ newly minted watchmakers, which is the easy part given the shortage. With an eye towards self-preservation more than altruism, many watchmaking schools are subsidized by the brands. Apprenticeships, the old-school way of becoming a watchmaker, still exist but are rare in the United States today. In most cases, apprentices don’t get paid, making this a challenging route. (Photo Credit: VWI) In either case, if you can get yourself trained or experienced or both to a solid level, there is no shortage of jobs out there waiting for qualified watchmakers, some of which pay surprisingly well compared to a traditional college education for non-binary art history or whatever kids are studying these days. If you’re a veteran, there is another unique opportunity out there that is so good, we almost didn’t think it was real. Veterans Watchmaker Initiative Sam Cannan founded VWI in 2017. (Photo Credit: VWI) Starting in 2015, Sam Cannan, a retired Baltimore police officer turned watchmaker, set out on a unique journey, to create a school for disabled veterans to learn watchmaking. Even more challenging, Cannan aimed to make the school completely free of charge, providing a pathway for veterans to learn a skilled trade and earn gainful employment in a high-demand career field. It took a couple of years, but Cannan eventually found a building in Odessa, Delaware where he set up shop, donated by the New Castle County government for $1 a year. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking was founded after the Second World War and provided no-cost watchmaker training to disabled veterans. (Photo Credit: Bulova) Calling back to the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking founded in WWII to provide veterans of the wars in Europe and the Pacific with free watchmaker training, Bulova came on board as a founding sponsor. In return, VWI is also an authorized Bulova service center, and students finishing the school’s full 16-month watchmaker training course attend a further three-month internship repairing watches within the service center. While studying, students also have the option to live in a nearby house owned by the school, providing an opportunity for students to obtain an almost completely free education in watchmaking. (Photo Credit: VWI) The program’s graduates are in high demand and have been placed—with the program’s assistance—within the Richemont and Swatch Groups as well as brands like Patek Philippe, with a near 100% placement rate for students graduating from the full watchmaker course. Staring into a watch movement wearing a loupe may seem like a far cry from the realities of military service, but many program attendees and particularly those diagnosed with PTSD as a service-connected disability describe the trade as therapeutic, providing a level of mental health support in addition to promising career implications. If you’re a disabled veteran and interested in attending one of VWI’s courses, which also include a shorter six-week watch technician program, click HERE to learn more. Watchmaking In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) Thus far, a renewed interest in mechanical watches has failed to spur a new generation of watchmakers. However, with the help of programs like VWI, hope is on the horizon. As is often the case with the so-called “Skills Gap”, awareness is at the core of the issue. If watch brands both big and small hope to persevere, qualified watchmakers must exist at all levels, ready to handle assembly at the production level as well as after-sales service whether handled by an authorized dealer or an independent watch repair business. As we’ve described, brands including Bulova are stepping up to help—in its interest as much as anything—but we would argue a broader effort from the largest players is necessary to keep pace with a majority retirement-age watchmaking workforce. Especially for disabled veterans searching for a skilled career field that is also in high demand, watchmaking might be a great place to look. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments. CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009. This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreWatches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States
From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President...
Read MoreFrom the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky visited the frontline troops on Ukraine's Armed Forces Day and presented soldiers with Ukrainian-produced Kleynold watches. The tradition of presenting watches to military personnel as commemorative gifts is long, but these watches served another purpose. With a government photographer on hand to capture the moment, the Ukrainian-produced Kleynold KFS-820s were tools of propaganda, a public demonstration of unity, patriotism, and Ukrainian ingenuity. This is just the latest example of watches used as tools of influence by Ukraine, the Soviet Union, and the United States. Cold War Of Covert Influence During the Cold War, the United States and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) competed on several “battlefields.” These included “hot wars” like Korea and Vietnam, “near-miss Armageddons” such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, and shadowy proxy wars around the world. One of the lesser-known battlefields involved influence operations. Both superpowers used overt, clandestine, and covert resources to influence non-aligned populations in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. In the United States, the lead agency was the US State Department and, specifically, the Policy Planning Staff (PPS). George Kennan, the State Department senior official responsible for the PPS, served in Moscow and realized that in the case of the USSR, the United States faced an implacable foe under Joseph Stalin determined to control the world either by force of arms or by political warfare. George F. Kennan pictured in Geneva, Switzerland. To counter that threat, Kennan prepared a series of papers at State addressing political warfare's challenges. Kennan understood that a successful program would have to include every possible tool in the national security tool kit. This included public diplomacy, economic and military support to neutrals as well as allies, and clandestine and covert influence programs run by the newly formed Central Intelligence Agency. The diverse set of CIA operations supporting this strategic plan included clandestine publishing and delivery of books banned in the USSR such as Boris Paternak’s Doctor Zhivago, smuggling news and music radio broadcasts into the Warsaw Pact countries and the USSR, and effective use of “agents of influence” to deliver a US-orchestrated message. Traditional Propaganda To counter this effort, the USSR used similar techniques. In the case of strategic communications, the USSR offered foreign journalists tours of “Potemkin villages” presenting the power of the communist economy. The May Day celebrations included displays of the Soviet military might, and in 1960, they created an international university in Moscow, Patrice Lumumba University, to train future non-aligned leaders. The KGB conducted “active measures” propaganda using their own agents of influence designed to portray the West and most especially the US as a poverty-stricken, depraved nation. The greatest tool in the Soviet propaganda tool kit was their space program. While US rockets were blowing up on the launch pad, the Soviets launched a small satellite, SPUTNIK, in October 1957 which broadcasted a radio signal as it orbited the Earth. In April 1961, the Soviets put the first man, Yuri Gagarin, into orbit, providing rocket fuel for the USSR’s propaganda program. The Soviet Union & Watches The Soviet Union had a basic watch industry before the start of World War II, but it was after the war that their watchmaking endeavors shifted from producing watches for the war effort to a blend of military and civilian programs. Two of the best-known of these 20th-century watch factories were VOSTOK (“East” in Russian) and the Petrodvorets Watch Factory (later renamed RAKETA, Russian for “rocket” after Yuri Gagarin’s epic flight). Both companies produced basic, easy-to-service, reliable hand-wound watches. Both RAKETA and VOSTOK watches were worn by Soviet political and military leaders as well as Soviet astronauts, pilots, and polar explorers. Soviet watch designs were also distinctive (for example the “Big Zero” Raketa). They also offered creative designs for water resistance including the legendary Vostok Amphibia that relied on increasing water pressure at depth to secure its water resistance. Raketa “Big Zero” in a chrome-plated cushion case with short, curved lugs (Photo Credit: Vintage Watch Inc) Beginning in the 1960s, both factories began to produce watches that advertised Soviet successes in military operations, space, and exploration. These watches had dial designs including Gagarin’s face, Soviet tanks, Soviet ships, submarines, and Soviet aircraft. These designs were primarily focused on building solidarity within the Soviet Union, but they were also exported around the globe allowing citizens of non-aligned countries with weak economies to own a reliable watch marked in English as “MADE IN USSR”. Vintage Raketa with Soviet astronaut Yuri Gagarin on the dial. The objective was clear: While the West produced watches for the elite, the Soviet Union made watches for the common man. While anyone familiar with the international watch industry of the 1960s knows that US, UK, and Japanese firms were producing high-quality watches at an affordable price, the marketing plans for these firms did not counter the Soviet argument. Simply put: The West ceded this particular piece of strategic communications to the Soviets. Did it matter? Probably not. The collapse of the USSR was a catastrophe for most command economy industries. However, both RAKETA and VOSTOK survived and began to export to the West. The oddest aspect of these export efforts was the importance of nostalgia for the Cold War. Soviet paraphernalia began to show up in kiosks throughout Europe and both RAKETA and VOSTOK found European partners willing to invest in their robust yet extremely inexpensive watches. The War In Ukraine Long after the collapse of the USSR and the creation of the modern state of Ukraine, the country had a nascent watch industry in Kyiv founded in 1997 and focused on simple quartz and mechanical watches. None of these watches appeared on the market in the West and they certainly didn’t hold the status of popular VOSTOK models including the Komandirskie and the Amphibia, both of which have cult followings among enthusiasts. A KLEYNOD watch from the brand’s military-oriented “Forces” collection. However, following the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukrainian territory in 2022, the Ukrainian Kyiv watch company changed its name to KLEYNOD (Ukrainian for “treasure”) and began to impress a historic Ukrainian battle insignia on their watches. Their marketing tool was simple: The KLEYNOD watches symbolized the Ukrainian resistance to the Russian invasion. In a previous W.O.E. Dispatch, we showed President Zelensky giving KLEYNOD watches to front-line troops. At present, KLEYNOD offers over a dozen different military-related watches, clearly keeping the ongoing war effort in mind. Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko, an early casualty of the War in Ukraine wearing a Ukrainian-made watch, Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition. When Ukrainian Su-27 Flanker fighter pilot Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko was killed on 25 February by a Russian S-400 missile during the Battle of Kyiv, he was posthumously awarded the Order of the Gold Star. Oksanchenko was a legendary Ukrainian pilot who retired in 2018 but like many Ukrainians returned to service to defend his nation. To celebrate this national hero and create unity, the Ukrainian government and press circulated pictures of the Grey Wolf, with a Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition watch clearly visible on his wrist. The watch was developed on the 15th anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence. Russia, Putin, & Timepieces Similarly, Russia continues to tout its watch industry as a source of national pride. President Putin, known for his extensive watch collection including an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne, Blancpain, and IWC, is now seen regularly wearing a Russian made, Imperial Peterhof Factory (Raketa) watch. Putin and affiliated Donetsk People's Republic (DPR) officials similarly have presented Russian-made watches to forces as honorary gifts. Conclusion: In the West, we often see watches as timekeeping tools or status symbols. Certainly, both points are true around the world with world leaders wearing valuable timepieces. Cases in point include the new Danish King Frederik’s Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” or Donald Trump’s many Rolex models. However, in the case of the USSR or today’s Russia and Ukraine, watches made locally serve as small but impactful propaganda tools that remind both the wearer and the observer alike that indigenous industries make reliable tools that are robust and meant to be used. Both countries export these timepieces to sustain their industries, but also to send a small message to the world: We are industrial powers. -- This piece was jointly written by W.O.E. and J.R. Seeger who served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated Afghanistan after 9/11. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. 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Read MoreBest Watches Under $5,000
Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...
Read MoreAsking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months. If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreEvery Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning
Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old. That said, there...
Read MoreSketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old. That said, there have been some great authors to come out of the Teams and Jack Carr is at the top of the list. Carr’s series of novels detailing the adventures of James Reece has become a massive hit, transcending the boundaries of our community to find broader mainstream success including a 2022 television adaptation starring Chris Pratt, The Terminal List. We have discussed watch culture in the SEAL Teams at length and Carr is also a watch enthusiast, with an extensive collection that includes a Rolex Sea-Dweller he wore while serving in the Teams as well as a Tudor Pelagos FXD Black, several Vietnam-era Seikos, an Ares, and more (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) One of the key aspects that makes Carr’s writing compelling is the author’s incredible attention to detail, always doing additional research to describe firearms, gear, and watches in depth. Throughout the series, James Reece, Carr’s protagonist, wears a vintage Rolex Submariner gifted to him by his father, a Vietnam-era SEAL turned CIA Case Officer. In the television adaptation, Reece—portrayed by Chris Pratt—wears several watches including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1, and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch. Chris Pratt wearing a Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD in the television adaptation of The Terminal List. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Carr’s seventh book in the James Reece series, Red Sky Mourning, was released last month. When I read it, I was truly surprised by the number of specific watches mentioned in the text, with one even playing a pivotal role in the plot. I knew Carr was a watch enthusiast, but this new novel shows how far down the rabbit hole the SEAL-turned-author has fallen. If you haven’t checked out the book, be advised: This text contains some spoilers. Elba Industries Breitling Emergency In Red Sky Mourning, at least one watch with a special complication plays an integral role in the plot. Andrew Hart, the dastardly fictional head of the fictional Elba Industries, wears a sketchy Breitling Emergency complete with a co-signed dial featuring Elba’s logo, a golden bee, an homage to co-signed “unit watches” from Breitling including the Blackwater Breitling we have discussed in great detail. Given Carr’s history in the SEAL Teams and working with CIA, it would be reasonable to assume the author has seen a few of these watches in his day. Former Blackwater CEO Erik Prince wearing a Blackwater-signed Breitling Emergency. An analog digital timepiece from Breitling’s golden era producing “watches for professionals”, the Emergency contains an antenna that broadcasts a signal on the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency when activated. Commercial and military aircraft monitored the frequency and were able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. At Red Sky Mourning’s climax, the signal from Hart’s Emergency is used to locate the ne'er-do-well and James Reece, an old-school Rolex guy through and through. Vintage Rolex Submariner A Rolex Submariner reference 5513 from the same era as the Sub worn by James Reece throughout the books. (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage) In the Terminal List series, James Reece is a former US Navy SEAL who has also worked extensively with the Agency. Reece’s father, Tom, was also a SEAL turned CIA Case Officer, having served in the Teams in Vietnam where he purchased the Submariner that also features prominently throughout the series on his son’s wrist. In Red Sky Mourning, James Reece’s Rolex is taken from him by the Chinese intelligence officer Ba Jin who also asks what year the Sub is from. Reece says, “It’s a ’68. You guys had just kicked off your Cultural Revolution a couple of years earlier. How many people did Mao kill in his efforts to purify the Party?” As you’d expect, Reece ends up getting the watch back in a way that does not work out well for Ba Jin. US Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing Rolex or Tudor Submariners. Given the 1968 timeframe, the Submariner in question is most likely either a non-date chronometer certified 5512 or potentially the non-COSC 5513, both models that are closely associated with Vietnam-era SEALs. It’s also conceivable the watch is a date model 1680 that also offered the red Submariner text at the time that is so coveted by collectors today. While arguably this should have been an issued Tudor Submariner, a classic Rolex Submariner is the perfect choice for a legacy SEAL like Reece that also once again demonstrates the author’s attention to detail and love for horology. Rhodesian Army Roamer Anfibio W.O.E.’s personal Rhodesian Roamer (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Red Sky Mourning, as he often does, Reece visits the Hastings family, home of his best friend Raife Hastings, a South African-born former SEAL teammate, and his father, Jonathan, who served with the Special Air Service (SAS) and later the famed Rhodesian Selous Scouts. Reaching extremely deep into the annals of military watch history, Carr equips Jonathan with a Roamer Anfibio, a seldom-discussed Swiss watch whose claim to fame is having been issued to the Rhodesian military back in the 1970s. Rhodesian issued Roamer on a leather military "Bund" strap worn by Colonel David “King” Parker, Commanding Officer of the Rhodesian Light Infantry (RLI). Col. Parker is wearing the Roamer, which was common according to pictures from the Bush War. Jonathan Hasting’s history with the Selous Scouts, a special forces component of the Rhodesian Army, makes this watch an excellent and historically accurate choice for Hastings who serves as something of an additional father figure to Reece. What led Roamer, a Swiss brand founded in 1888, to supply the Rhodesian military is one of watch history’s mysteries, but you can’t fault the quality of Carr’s homework. If you have been following this page, you know I've spent a lot of my life living, working, and traveling in Africa, a country with a large number of unique and lesser-known military watches. Interestingly, Hasting’s trajectory closely follows that of a real individual, someone who is not widely known outside of the Intelligence Community. Tianjin Seagull 1963 Chang Zheng is a Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine featuring prominently in a cat-and-mouse game with the USS Reagan in the early pages of Red Sky Mourning. In describing her captain, Commander Zhen, Carr says mentions the, “…Tianjin Seagull 1963 watch on his wrist.”, a reference that serves as perhaps the second deepest watch cut in the book after the aforementioned Roamer Anfibio. Known to enthusiasts as simply the “Seagull 1963”, the Chinese-made manual-winding chronograph serves as perhaps the least expensive mechanical chronograph available today, with an ST19 caliber produced in China at Tianjin’s factory with tooling purchased from Switzerland back in the 1950s. A Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine like the Chang Zheng mentioned in Red Sky Mourning. Initially produced for Chinese Air Force pilots, the Seagull 1963 is an enthusiast-favorite watch because of its attainable price point—typically less than $500—in relation to its complication coupled with a surprisingly well-decorated movement. For a Chinese submarine commander, it also makes a lot of sense given the watch’s military history. Captaining a Chinese submarine likely involves direct inclusion in the communist party. For Commander Zhen to demonstrate his pride in the party by wearing a mechanical watch produced in his country feels dead-on accurate. Rolex Yacht-Master A second watch from the Crown mentioned in the text is the Rolex Yacht-Master, worn by Dr. Lawrence Miles, an avid sailor, former CIA contractor, and the billionaire founder of the Delphi Corporation. Reece goes to Miles’ home in Marin, California to learn more about the motivations behind the nefarious Andrew Hart. During their conversation, Miles describes a meeting he had with Hart and two other sketchy individuals, saying, “I remember they all wore the same watch—Breitling Emergencies. As a sailor you notice things like that,” he said, tapping the white gold Rolex Yacht-Master on his wrist and pointing to the stainless Submariner worn by his guest.” While white gold and platinum are the materials that come to mind first for the Yacht-Master, the new titanium version would also be an interesting pick for Miles’ character. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Also describing his sailing history, the Yacht-Master is the perfect choice for the billionaire and passionate sailor who spends his days overlooking San Francisco Bay. Unlike many Rolex sport models, there is no full-steel Yacht-Master in the modern catalog, meaning you’re looking at either full-gold, some combination of steel and platinum or steel and gold, or the new titanium variant released earlier this year. Given Miles’ financial situation, we like to think we went full billionaire bling. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) & Smartwatches In addition to the above-listed mechanical analog watches, Carr also mentions a Timex Ironman in the text, placing the legendary attainable digital watch on the wrist of retired US Army General and current CIA Director Marcus Howe. In the text, Carr writes, “Howe looked down at the Timex Ironman watch that had graced his wrist for most of his time in uniform…” With a thirty-year background in US Army Special Forces, the humble Ironman is an appropriate and pragmatic option for the Agency director. Adding another layer, the Timex Ironman was commonly issued to CIA Paramilitary Officers as well as partner forces including Afghan units. While less key to the plot, smartwatches are also mentioned several times in the text, usually in discussions regarding their vulnerability. We’ve detailed the role and counterintelligence vulnerabilities of the smartwatch in modern espionage, and we appreciate Carr for bringing this element of modern watch culture into the book. Read more about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” HERE. More than many thriller writers from outside the community, Carr manages to capture both the essential essence and concrete details of life within intelligence and special operations. Viewed from any number of angles and by various enthusiast communities for knives, firearms, tactical equipment, and watches, Carr packs the James Reece sagas with layer upon layer of references and Easter eggs that some will grasp and some won’t, but that’s the fun of it. We often make fun of SEALs, most of whom are authors, and will continue to do so. But Jack Carr has done it the right way, avoiding repetitively rehashing his own GWOT adventures in favor of the larger-than-life story of James Reece that is bolstered by Carr’s personal experience in the field of special operations and espionage. For watch enthusiasts, this level of attention to detail and historical accuracy is the good stuff and only adds another level of intrigue to Carr’s work. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: SOG Seikos - Vietnam MACV-SOG Watches, Part II Featured Image Credits: Breitling Emergency (Photo Credit: Lunar Oyster), Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage), Roamer Anfibio (Photo Credit: James Rupley)
Read MoreUS Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt
A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...
Read MoreA Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light. Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once. This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreThe Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex
Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....
Read MoreFake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex? It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches: A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives. Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake. The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements. Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD
Read MoreCustom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King
Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing...
Read MoreUnit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing subset of the military, intelligence, and law enforcement communities with a passion for mechanical or otherwise more interesting timepieces. We’ve discussed so-called “unit watches” in detail many times. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at unit watches from the world of law enforcement, specifically the UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection (RaSP), an intriguing unit from within the Metropolitan Police’s Specialist Operations directorate. To date, there are three known unit watches from RaSP, a Casio G-Shock from the attainable tier as well as a Tudor and Omega from the world of Swiss luxury, all of which see active service as tools in the performance of the unit’s unique role. Protecting Royals, Politicians, & A Castle Or Two Officers stand guard outside Windsor Castle. (Photo Credit: Maureen McLean) Similar to the role played by the US Secret Service, who are also no strangers to unit watches, RaSP provides close protection services to the UK royal family including the king, the prime minister, various other politicians, ambassadors, and visiting heads of state. In addition, the unit also serves as specially trained armed security for royal residences including palaces in London, Windsor Castle, and other sites in Scotland. Unlike the United States, which has not been ruled by anyone wearing a crown since a kerfuffle ending in 1783, the average police officer in Great Britain doesn’t carry a firearm, making the armed and highly trained RaSP a higher level of protection and response in the event of terrorist attacks or assassination attempts on the Royal Family. Hired from the ranks of experienced frontline police officers as opposed to “off the street”, RaSP officers have been called into action on several prominent occasions. Royal Protection Officers tackle an attacker after an assassination attempt on then-Prince Charles (standing far right) in Sydney in 1994. (Photo Credit: Express UK) Far from idle threats, Royalty Protection Officers engaged in a dramatic shootout during an attempted kidnapping of Princess Anne in 1974 as well as when then-Prince Charles was attacked during a speech in 1994. In recent years, the Duke of Sussex (Netflix calls him Prince Harry) made headlines when he fought to continue his RaSP protection detail even after leaving his royal role and moving to California in 2020. In close protection scenarios, RaSP officers typically wear a suit with a concealed firearm, radio, and less-than-lethal weapons in certain instances. In contrast, officers don a more traditional uniform when providing overt armed protective security at royal residences. This operational duality is reflected in the unit’s choices for customized timepieces. A Custom Full-Metal G-Shock For Royalty Protection Officers The RaSP’s customized GM-B2100BD-1A. (Photo Credit: G-Central) The impetus for this article stems from G-Central, a leader in G-Shock news and information. A few weeks back, we noticed a post covering a unit-specific version of the GM-B2100BD-1A, a full-metal variant of the so-called “CasiOak” that debuted back in 2019. With an analog-digital display and an IP-coated black stainless steel case and bracelet, the RaSP unit variant was spotted on uniformed officers outside Windsor Castle and included a custom United Kingdom flag integrating a Thin Blue Line motif on the clasp as well as a special XIV engraving on the bracelet. The XIV references the SO14, the former name of the Royalty Protection Department that merged with SO1 or Specialist Protection to become the modern RaSP in 2015. On the case back, the watch offered an engraved image of Windsor Castle. Judging by the wear across the case and bracelet on the watches spotted by G-Central, the Royalty Protection Officers use these tools in performing their duties, with the G-Shock serving as an excellent pairing with the more utilitarian uniform worn by the unit in this instance. While we always hear about G-Shock in military and law enforcement scenarios, customized unit versions are rare and in this case, pretty cool. A custom caseback and clasp engraving for the RaSP G-Shock. (Photo Credit: G-Central) Rather than an officially sanctioned unit watch, these G-Shock models appear to have been a smaller unofficial unit purchase only for members of Windsor Castle’s protective detail. With that in mind, the G-Shocks do not expressly display “RaSP”, instead using XIV as a reference to the unit’s history. For more refined scenarios including providing close protection for royals during public events, RaSP also has a couple of interesting official watches from more luxurious brands in its stable. Omega Planet Ocean For Royalty Protection Officers Known for recently providing customized versions of the Seamaster Diver 300 to US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogmen, and the US Secret Service, Omega also produced a very rare unit version of its Seamaster Planet Ocean for RaSP, designing the piece with input from the unit in 2018 with delivery of approximately 60 units taking place in 2020. From the front, the watch looks identical to civilian market versions. On the case sides, the watches are engraved with the officer’s initials, warrant number, and watch issue number, marking the only time we’ve seen engravings on the case side of a unit-customized Omega. In addition, the sapphire exhibition case back is emblazoned with a two-part emblem consisting of a crown representing the royalty side of the branch as well as a portcullis signifying the specialist side tasked with protecting government ministers and other dignitaries. In addition, the caseback's outer perimeter references the previous unit designations used by those departments that merged to eventually become RaSP. SO14 and SO1 we've already touched on, which were in existence until 2015, however SO12(A) was an earlier forerunner on the ministerial side. The Shield Protects The Crown (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) The phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new, with the shield having provided special unit versions of many of its core models to various military and governmental organizations. Around 2017 or 2018, the unit commissioned 75 Tudor Black Bay Blue for current and former members of the unit through Watches of Switzerland. A Tudor rose with a crown on top is on the dial, representing an intriguing mashup between Tudor the watch brand’s rose logo—seen on the crown on this reference—and the traditional heraldic rose that often serves as an emblem of England. The case back is engraved with “ROYALTY & SPECIALIST PROTECTION”, an individual's identification number, and serialized one through 75. Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches (Left) & Ross Povey (Right) Like other special watches commissioned for military or government units, several of these RaSP Tudor Black Bay have made their way into private civilian hands by way of prominent auction houses and aftermarket resellers asking for prices as high as $30,000. One special example produced for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee in 2022 hammered for a staggering CHF 81,900, about $91k in today’s US dollars. These very public sales—one of which occurred around the time of The Queen's funeral—resulted in a change of policy from the department's senior leadership sometime in 2023, and there have been no newly developed official RaSP unit watches since. That’s why the above-mentioned G-Shock was produced on a smaller team-specific scale without RaSP markings. While we are not here to condemn unit members looking to turn a profit on personalized watches they likely never imagined would attain such value, we prefer to see these in the hands of the operators themselves, carrying forward the Use Your Tools ethos. Dual Purpose Tools While we typically concentrate on unit watches related to the military and intelligence community, there is clearly a significant community of watch enthusiasts in law enforcement and first responders. Unit watches like those produced for the UK’s Royalty Protection Officers serve a dual purpose role, acting as tools in the performance of their daily missions while also serving as keepsakes honoring their service both during and after the fact. Seeing such a wide swath of watchmaking within the Royalty Protection community, from a $500 G-Shock to luxury models from Omega and Tudor, further solidifies that our community is oriented around the capabilities and intrigue of the tool rather than flex culture. If you have other interesting unit watches to share, you know where to find us. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 2 - CIA & Traditional Espionage
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is somewhat outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends about their favorite books on the CIA and the world of intelligence to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. This is the second list focused on CIA, traditional espionage, and foreign intelligence collection. For the first installment looking at books covering the Global War On Terror, see HERE. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. Modern Intelligence Collection In Books The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service, Henry A. Crumpton From serving in the pre-digital age in Africa to helping coordinate the CIA’s Predator drone programs, Henry A. Crumpton’s career in intelligence is carefully chronicled in The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service. While much has changed, Crumpton also underlines the basic tradecraft principles that have stood the test of time. This is a great primer on the world of intelligence and life as a C/O at the CIA, absent much of the bravado common in CIA memoirs. The Good Spy: The Life and Death of Robert Ames, Kai Bird A legend in the intelligence community, Robert Ames was credited with helping to heal the rift between Arabs and the West before he was killed in a bombing on the American embassy in Beirut in 1983. Intriguingly, Bird is a journalist who knew Ames as a child, and crafted this book from his firsthand experience with Ames as well as countless interviews with global intelligence professionals. Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters After the attacks on 9/11, the CIA received over 150,000 applications from Americans wanting to join the Global War On Terror’s espionage effort. Around 100 students were selected for Class 11, the first CIA training course convened after the darkest day in modern American history. In Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters, a Class 11 graduate, shares an insider view of a new generation of CIA Case Officers preparing for war. Of note, some inside CIA will roll their eyes at this recommendation, but it is the best insight I have seen on the training pipeline and specifically the long course at “The Farm.” Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda, Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton, & Henry R. Schlesinger Juxtaposed against the Cold War, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and evolving terrorist threats, Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda is a never-before-seen look at the technology that makes espionage possible. Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson Intelligence collection is a morally ambiguous trade. In Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson, a CIA veteran, tackles the challenging moral and ethical challenges facing the modern intelligence community. Describing a lack of firm guidance from the Agency on what constitutes inappropriate tradecraft, Olson illustrates how that uncertainty hampers Case Officers in the field, making an already complicated and dangerous job even more perilous. I read this book while at CIA and found it thought-provoking and a must-read for anyone in the community. Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior, Ric Prado After fleeing war-torn Cuba as a child, Ric Prado served with US Air Force Pararescue before joining CIA and rising through the ranks of the CIA over a 24-year career. Having served in Central Asia, Peru, the Philippines, Korea, and numerous other classified locations, Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior is Prado’s memoir of a life lived in the shadows. Prado also has several notable watches including the Blackwater Emergency and a Tudor Submariner. The Targeter, Nada Bakos Targeters are one of the most important and least understood career tracks at CIA, and this book provides some great insight. Joining the Agency as an analyst, Nada Bakos rose to the rank of Targeting Officer, playing a central role in unraveling the connections between 9/11 and Al Qaeda during the Global War On Terror. The Targeter is a powerful firsthand account of one woman’s story of selfless sacrifice and the incredible work being done by professionals within the intelligence community. The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, David Priess Every day, the President of the United States is handed a daily brief (PDB) summarizing important intelligence-related issues and events as well as potential threats to the United States. David Priess’s volume, The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, tells the history of what some call “The Book” and its influence on national security and geopolitics. Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, Michael V. Hayden In Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, General Michael V. Hayden shares his experiences as the former leader of both the NSA and CIA, saying, “I bear no grudges, or at least not many, but I do want this to be a straightforward and readable history for that slice of the American population who depend on and appreciate intelligence, but who do not have the time to master its many obscure characteristics." This is a great primer on the intelligence community at various levels and deals with some of the issues related to the future of the IC. The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives, Ted Gup Ted Gup’s chilling and well-researched The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives tackles the often untold stories of the people behind the 71 stars carved into a marble wall at CIA HQS, each representing an intelligence professional who lost their life in the line of duty. Many of these stories may be still classified, but I will note it was required reading for new recruits at CIA. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw, Mark Bowden Mark Bowden, a legendary journalist and the author of Black Hawk Down, chronicles the violent rise to power and fall of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most legendary drug kingpin, in Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw. Beirut Rules: The Murder of a CIA Station Chief and Hezbollah's War Against America, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz In Beirut Rules, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz unpack Hezbollah’s war against America in the 1980s and the terror organization’s ultimately successful quest to kill William Buckley, a CIA Case Officer assigned to Beirut after the 1983 bombing of the American embassy in Lebanon that killed Robert Ames. The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, Douglas London In Douglas London’s The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, the 34-year veteran of the CIA describes his experience working in American intelligence both before and after 9/11, calling into question how the Agency has adapted and how it must continue to evolve. A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA, Duane R. Clarridge (Author) & Digby Diehl Another memoir from a seasoned CIA Case Officer, Duane R. Clarridge’s A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA is a behind-the-scenes account of the state of American intelligence from the point of view of the former Deputy Director of the CIA. The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture, Ishmael Jones The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture is author Ishmael Jones’ plea for reform within the Agency, specifically citing intelligence shortfalls and other missteps caused by the culture of the world of intelligence. This book is highly critical of CIA, which is actually a good thing. If you are truly interested in learning about the organization, it's important to read positive and negative takes to get a full picture. Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China, David Wise Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China tells the story of China’s unseen espionage war against the United States, much of it perpetrated while American attention was focused on the Soviet Union. From double agents to cybersecurity, author David Wise paints a picture of a Chinese intelligence machine that is not to be underestimated. David Wise has some other great books on espionage including Spy- The Inside Story of How the FBI's Robert Hanssen Betrayed America. The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA, Liza Mundy Historically a male-dominated field, The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA tells the story of the incredible contributions made by women to the world of intelligence and national security. Of note, some of the best officers I worked with were women and this book tells some of their stories. Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History, Antonio Mendez & Matt Baglio A more in-depth look at the real-life story that inspired 2012’s Argo film starring Ben Affleck, Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History is CIA Technical Officer Tony Mendez’s account of his role in smuggling six American hostages out of Tehran in 1979. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, Jack Devine & Vernon Loeb With over 30 years in the business of United States intelligence, Jack Devine finished his career overseeing the Directorate of Operations. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, is Devine’s overarching guide to the concept of spycraft, the combined set of tactics, techniques, and procedures utilized by CIA and other intelligence agencies. Inside the CIA, Ronald Kessler Ronald Kessler’s Inside the CIA is a rare officially sanctioned look inside America’s intelligence service, focusing on the Agency’s organization, mission, and accomplishments. If you’re looking for a primer on what the CIA is and how it operates, this book is an excellent place to start. Transforming U.S. Intelligence, Jennifer E Sims & Burton Gerber (Editors) Transforming U.S. Intelligence is an almost scholarly work assembling the insights of numerous contributors with firsthand experience in the world of intelligence. Based on learnings from the missing weapons of mass destruction in Iraq and critical missteps in the lead-up to 9/11, this book aims to describe how United States intelligence can learn from its shortfalls to be more effective in an uncertain future. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, J.K. Rowling Early in my career at CIA, I focused solely on nonfiction thinking that fiction was a waste of time. That said, many intelligence and NatSec failures boil down to a failure of imagination. Feeding your brain with fiction like Harry Potter is a great way to teach yourself to think outside the box. The More You Know Separating fact from fiction when it comes to the CIA is challenging, with so much public perception around the world of espionage being inspired by Hollywood’s portrayals of Jason Bourne or James Bond. Targeted strikes, covert action, and high-stakes clandestine meetings do happen, and many are described within these volumes, but the realities facing intelligence professionals are often more subtle, nuanced, and intriguing. While this is not an exhaustive list, these titles represent an excellent jumping-off point for anyone hoping to hear firsthand stories from inside the United States intelligence apparatus. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreAn Inside Look At The Swiss Watch Industry
I Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches...
Read MoreI Visited Tudor, Omega, IWC, & Breitling - Here Is What I Learned Switzerland is the epicenter of “watches of espionage.” The relationship to watches is obvious. Based on a watchmaking tradition going back centuries, Switzerland is home to the majority of luxury watch brands from Patek Phillipe and Rolex to Tissot and Hublot. The country’s connections to espionage are less understood. A historically neutral country, Switzerland houses several international organizations including the United Nations in Geneva, and is often the location of high-stakes intergovernmental meetings both overt and clandestine. Traditionally loose banking laws have also made Switzerland a convenient place for individuals to store wealth, regardless of the origin of those financial gains. Needless to say, Switzerland is a country that I have visited many times and holds a special place in my heart. W.O.E. at Omega SA in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland The intentions for this trip were simple: to learn more about the Swiss watch industry and specifically brands that are closely aligned with our community. While Omega, Tudor, IWC, and Breitling are very different companies, the one thing they have in common is decades-old relationships with our community. Initially producing purpose-built issued military watches in the 20th century, today these brands are the leaders of modern unit watch programs. IWC’s pilot’s watches, Omega’s Seamasters, Tudor’s extensive dive line, and Breitling's aviation-centric collection are accurately depicted as luxury items today, but they were all once purpose-built tools. “Watches of Espionage” is in the DNA of each of these companies and I would go as far as to say they would not exist or be where they are today without military end users. Breitling manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (W.O.E.) I was fortunate to meet with CEOs, watch designers/watchmakers, suits, and most relevant to W.O.E., the individuals that run each brand’s Unit Watch programs. The experience gave me a deeper appreciation and respect for the craftsmanship and resources it takes to build and sustain a leading watch company. I realize how unique it is to be granted access to these closed-off facilities and this level of openness is not something I take for granted. A Geography Lesson Geneva, Switzerland. Switzerland’s watchmaking industry is intriguing in that it spreads across the relatively small country’s varied geography and its many cultural boundaries. While many of the watch industry’s corporate headquarters are located in Geneva, Switzerland's second-most populous city, the majority of actual production including movements takes place in the Jura mountains spanning the country’s northwestern border. Traditionally, watchmakers expanded to this area to take advantage of an agricultural workforce that was dormant during the winter months, creating the “farmer watchmaker” heritage that many brands tout today. Map of Switzerland’s watchmaking centers. (Credit: Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry) Swiss watchmaking also spans the country’s language barriers. Rolex/Tudor, which is headquartered in Geneva, is staffed primarily by French-speaking Swiss or French workers traveling across the border, but as you head north toward Biel/Bienne, Omega’s headquarters, language and culture shift to a blend of French and German influence. Breitling is also a brand of two cultures, with Swiss-German origins, a headquarters in German-speaking Grenchen, and a production facility in French-speaking La Chaux-de-Fonds. In contrast, IWC is located in Schaffhausen, near Zürich and just across the border from Germany, conducting nearly all of its business in German. Form Follows Function - Purpose-Built Tools Ander Ugarte (left) and Christian Koop are the head designers for Tudor and IWC, respectively. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting with Christian Koop and Ander Ugarte, the heads of design of IWC and Tudor, respectively. Intensely passionate and masters of their craft, each walked us through the process and attention to detail involved in designing a modern watch for brands steeped in heritage and tradition. The DNA of iconic watches like the IWC Mark series and Tudor dive watches can be traced back to the divers and soldiers who wore them over half a century ago. While today’s watches trend to luxury items vs real tools, a common phrase I heard was “form follows function.” The watches are still designed with the end user in mind, just as they were a century ago. Automation vs. Hand-Crafted Modern watchmaking is a fascinating blend of cutting-edge technology and centuries-old hand craftsmanship. The two most surprising aspects of visiting the manufacturing facilities of Breitling, Omega, and IWC were the number of robots/automated steps in contrast with the number of steps still requiring human touch. The manufacturing facilities are reliant on technicians and watchmakers from the rural areas of Switzerland, who still work farmers' hours, just as they did centuries ago. Breitling watch technician. Each morning, hundreds of watchmakers and technicians arrive at the facilities, don sterile antistatic white coats and clean Crocs or Birkenstocks, and spend hours tightening tiny screws to spec or attaching dials to movements. It is a painstaking process and a truly remarkable juxtaposition of futuristic cutting-edge technology and traditional watchmaking. Trying my hand at watchmaking at IWC Schaffhausen. The result is a watch containing hundreds of components, all working in sync to tell you the time. The watches are then shipped around the world through complex dealer networks and intermediaries for you to purchase. Seeing this process firsthand is a remarkable experience and gives me a greater appreciation for the technical and logistical prowess required in Swiss watchmaking. Military Unit Watch Programs - Omega, Tudor, IWC, & Breitling A “Unit Watch” is a timepiece that is customized by the manufacturer for members of a specific unit or organization. Customizations can include the unit’s insignia on the dial and/or an engraving on the caseback. When it comes to Swiss watches, Tudor, Omega, and IWC are the modern leaders in the space and we have profiled each program in past articles. An Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” produced for the US Navy SEALs. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A cynical analysis of these programs would conclude they are sophisticated marketing initiatives, meant to garner publicity through leaks on social media. While I would argue they accomplish this goal in certain instances, the reality is the brands are largely hesitant to publicly acknowledge the partnerships. Swiss brands have spent decades carefully curating a specific narrative to position themselves as aspirational luxury goods. “Tudors of Espionage,” “Sketchy dudes wear Breitling”, and an iconic image of Omega Seamaster on the wrist of a Secret Service agent after an assassination attempt run counter to these carefully crafted narratives. Diplomatic Security Tudor Black Bay 58. Further, in contrast to smaller brands like Bremont which garner significant revenue from military programs, for the large Swiss houses, it is costly to divert resources to customizing a dial or caseback for a relatively small batch of custom watches, which are also often sold at a discount. In short, these programs likely aren't big money makers for brands that measure watch sales in the hundreds of thousands of units. IWC Unit Watch for AH-64 pilots. So why do large luxury watch brands bother with Unit Watches? As far as I can tell, these programs are passion projects for individuals within each company and they are somewhat controversial for some brands. I have spent significant time with the individuals in charge of the unit watch programs and they are fiercely passionate about them. They truly believe that they are serving a greater calling by producing meaningful tools and heirlooms for our community. Not surprisingly, these individuals also appreciate what we are doing at Watches of Espionage. Watch Brands Are Businesses This one is so obvious that it shouldn't have to be said, but it's a simple fact that many watch “enthusiasts” often forget. The purpose of a watch company is not to make watches, it's to make money. Many of the individuals who work at the major brands are suits, marketing professionals, and technicians who could work for any number of companies in the luxury goods space. While some of them are passionate about watches, the majority of them likely do not consume watch content on their personal time and are not “watch nerds.” Swatch Group Headquarters, left is Omega building. (Photo CreditL Stefan Wermuth/Bloomberg) To be clear, while I enjoy making fun of suits as much as the next guy, this is actually a good thing. If you love watches like I do, then you should want watch brands to succeed… at making money. Headwinds for the watch industry are at an all-time high with Apple Watch sales surpassing the entire Swiss watch industry. It’s not a foregone conclusion that the most iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet will be around in 2074. For the most part, modern watches are luxury goods, meaning they are unnecessary. If they are not profitable, they will disappear. Watch nerds often shed crocodile tears on internet forums complaining about why brand X doesn't produce a specific watch or “listen to the community,” but the reality is brands generally make decisions based on mass market appeal. It may be a tough pill to swallow, but many brands do not care about enthusiasts, and from a bottom-line perspective, they shouldn’t. Ownership Matters As consumers, we often think of brands as discrete monoliths, independent entities that make design and product decisions in a vacuum. However, industry consolidation has led to four conglomerates owning the majority of the Swiss watch industry; Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the parent organization for Rolex and Tudor. Somewhat dated graphic showing ownership in the watch industry (Image Credit: Tony Traina, Rescapement) While in theory, the brands are independent or semi-independent entities, the reality is that Omega's decisions could impact the overall standing and profitability of Swatch Group as a whole, and IWC is just one node of the broader Richemont family. While Tudor often paints itself as an independent entity, when I visited Tudor HQS in Geneva, it was inside Rolex. It’s naive to think that there is no coordination between the companies. Breitling was purchased from the Schneider family by a private equity company in 2017 and whether we like it or not, the overall decisions of the brand are impacted by this ownership structure. (Photo Credit: Rolex) Conglomerates are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they offer access to capital and resources, Richemont and Swatch Group are multibillion-dollar conglomerates with robust infrastructure and supply chains. On the other hand, the conglomerates must ensure each company works towards the same goal, which likely limits independence and creativity at the brand level. Coopetition - Competitors Or Partners? Further, even between competing brands, there is a level of cooperation and sharing. Historically, the legendary Rolex Daytona utilized a chronograph movement supplied by Zenith. Even today, Breitling and Tudor, theoretically arch rivals, share movements, with Breitling utilizing several of Tudor’s base automatic calibers and Tudor receiving a modified version of the B01 chronograph caliber in return, a level of cooperation you aren’t going to see from Apple and Samsung. Tudor's MT5612 is produced by Tudor and voluntarily shared with Breitling, a rival watchmaker. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) While they’re never going to admit it publicly, many of the biggest brands also look to the same suppliers for specific components from jewels to mainsprings to cases and bracelets to construct their “in-house” movements and complete watches. Third-party certifications like COSC and METAS are also utilized by multiple brands looking for a competitive advantage. Despite being fundamentally in competition, I heard several brand leaders admit the overall health of the Swiss watch industry is always in mind. A rising tide lifts all ships. For the industry to succeed holistically, the brands must balance being fiercely competitive with a measured level of cooperation. While it was created in collaboration with Omega and an impartial third party, Tudor has also started instituting METAS testing and certification for some of its watches. (Photo Credit: Monochrome Watches) Tribalism Exists at Every Level Visit any social media watch page and the tribalism—visceral feelings for or against a specific brand—is evident. There are fewer general “watch guys” and more “Rolex” or “Omega” guys. The passion is real and watch nerds think their brand is the best and everyone else sucks. The individuals I met at each brand were fiercely proud of the product they produce, which is cool to see. While they were professional enough to not bad mouth another company outright, it's clear that they truly believed their brand was the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. While this may sound like a negative, this intense conviction to be the best was inspiring. If I buy a Tudor, Omega, Breitling, or IWC, I like knowing that the people making it in the mountains of Switzerland are true believers. Heritage Matters Omega museum, Biel/Bienne, Switzerland When you buy a watch, you are not just buying the components, you are buying a piece of history. One of the most educational aspects of the trip was visiting the museums of Breitling in Zurich, Omega in Biel/Bienne, and IWC in Schaffhausen. For the brands I visited, the history is rich and compelling, and on full display. Breitling Emergency Prototype (Breilting Museum, Zurich Switzerland) Of course, the brands emphasize certain periods and events to carefully curate a narrative, but they are still compelling because it’s authentic. Omega’s museum had numerous watches worn by astronauts, soldiers, and spies, both real and contrived (Bond, James Bond). IWC was founded by an American soldier, Florentine Ariosto Jones who fought for the 13th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment during the Civil War and would go on to produce watches for both the Allies and the Germans during World War II, something the museum refreshingly does not gloss over. Breitling’s DNA is rooted in aviation, having provided issued watches during both World Wars decades before becoming a go-to option for those operating on the fringe of sketchiness in the 1990s and 2000s. These museums are open to the public, and I encourage you to visit if you find yourself in Switzerland. The great thing about the country is you can get pretty much anywhere in a few hour train ride. Left is an issued “MN” Tudor MilSub on an original strap, fashioned from parachute webbing. The one on the right was a unit purchase gift for a retiring officer. It was purchased through the MN Rolex-certified watchmaker, Yves Pastre who had a workshop in Toulon. (Photo Credit: Tudor Archives/W.O.E.) Unfortunately, Tudor does not have a museum, but they did provide us access to their extensive archives of military-issued watches and prototypes. This will be the subject of a future Dispatch and the spice level was high. Swiss Watch Marketing is Antiquated I have written in the past about the sophisticated marketing machines behind the Swiss watch industry and this trip confirmed that thesis (Read Here). The major brands, including IWC, Tudor, Omega, and Breitling, have masterfully curated a narrative based on decades-old craftsmanship and history, that makes them leaders in a crowded industry. In addition to co-opting watch media, they spend millions of dollars a year sponsoring sporting events, recruiting celebrity ambassadors, and producing slick marketing material. Watches and Wonders, an international watch and jewelry industry organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. (Photo Credit: Wikicommons) While I am by no means a marketing expert, I am intimately familiar with human nature. I get the feeling that the brands are reliant on what has worked in the past and not focused on the future, or for that matter the present. Celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, film product placement, and heavily-curated “new releases” are masterclasses in Marketing 101 but the modern consumer is savvy and the media landscape has changed. Legacy watch publications have declined in recent years and have been replaced by a plethora of dispersed voices. There are TikTokers, Youtubers, and podcast hosts who are more influential than Tom Brady and even James Bond. The Swiss watch industry appears slow to adapt to the new landscape and continues to fall back on tried and true methods. Given its age, watchmaking as a whole is steeped in tradition and slow to adapt, especially when it comes to reaching the younger consumers the industry so desperately needs to continue. W.O.E. in Schaffhausen, wearing the same IWC Mark XVII I wore while operational at CIA. Does visiting a facility impact how I will cover them? To date, we have kept the traditional watch industry at arm's length distance, something that frankly much of the industry is okay with. That said, as we have grown our audience we owe it to our community to present thoughtful and unbiased commentary on the watches and brands that are aligned with our ethos. I made some great friends and contacts on this trip and am grateful for the level of access I was granted. It will continue to be a balance between nurturing these relationships and remaining unswayed by the influence of the brands on content. Despite some of the critiques above, my appreciation for the Swiss watch industry in general and these legendary brands in particular could not be higher. I am grateful for those individuals who made this trip possible and thankful for the time and effort of the teams in Switzerland. There are several threads to pull on from this trip and we plan to write additional stories on IWC’s “Top Gun” unit watch program, recent developments in Omega’s unit watch offerings, and the real story behind the Tudor FXD. Thank you all for the support, more to come. -W.O.E. *Note, as with all of our content, this is not sponsored by Tudor, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or any other brand. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: Tactical Watches & Holiday Movies
The Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a...
Read MoreThe Watches Of Die Hard, Home Alone, & Lethal Weapon As we move into the holiday season, we have a special treat for you: a look at Christmas movies and tactical watches. This is a fun one and a clear sign that we don’t take ourselves too seriously. Tradition matters at Watches of Espionage. It’s what builds culture and forms the pillars of our community. During the holiday season, tradition means appreciating the cinematic masterpiece that is Die Hard as well as Home Alone and other Christmas classics. As always, watches are the lens through which we view everything from historical events to films. As it happens, some of our favorite holiday films also prominently feature watches that are significant in our community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we stay true to our roots, exploring these iconic holiday films in the way we know best, through the lens of national security and—of course—the watches worn on screen. Enjoy episode nine of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands
Our Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with...
Read MoreOur Favorite Tools & Accessories From The Community To help you get the most out of your holiday shopping this year, we are back with another list of our top picks from a wide range of brands close to our community. As always, we do not offer any special discounts or codes, which is not to say the brands aren’t running any of their own discounts. We are highlighting these tools because we believe in them and use them ourselves. Nothing you see here is sponsored. If you’re shopping for the watch enthusiast or gear nerd in your life, this list is a great place to start, representing a wide variety of categories and price points. For a curated list of great options from the W.O.E. Shop, click HERE. *As a reminder, we will be closing up shop on Saturday 14 December at 2000 EST this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* If we missed anything, please be sure to share any other great gift ideas in the comments down below. We are always in the market for new tools and specifically love to support small businesses, people, and brands doing innovative things. Happy holidays from W.O.E. We appreciate the support and genuinely couldn’t do any of this without all of you. Watches: For a full list of watch recommendations at every price point, see The Best Military Watches For Land, Sea, & Air. Arabic Seiko SNKP21 - $134 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) A staple in our community, the so-called Seik-W.O.E. is one watch that is both incredibly affordable and close to our hearts. To read more about a CIA Officer’s love affair with the Arabic Seiko, click HERE. The best part about it? You can order it on Amazon and it will be at your door tomorrow. CWC SBS Divers Issue - $775 (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Backed by some of the most legitimate military connections in the tool dive watch game, the CWC SBS Divers Issue is a staple Swiss-made military diver offering fixed lugs and a blacked-out PVD case. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT - $4,625 Released back in October, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is the next chapter in the brand’s decades-long history working with the Marine Nationale or French Navy and the first time we’ve seen a GMT caliber inside a Pelagos. EDC Tools: Prometheus Design Werx SPD Ti-BarT - $69 Built to the standard you’d expect from a quality blade, the SPD Ti-BarT from our friends at PDW is a highly capable, elegant, precision machined, multifunctional pocket pry bar tool for many of the everyday tasks and chores that your pocket knife can't do. Leather Works Minnesota No. 9 Wallet - $110 Our friends at Leather Works Minnesota produce many of the leather goods you see on the W.O.E. Shop including our Travel Pouches while also offering an impressive array of items under their brand name. We’ve been using one of their No. 9 Wallets for years and have always been impressed by the American craftsmanship and quality. Tactile Turn Buccaneer Pen - $149 Made largely by hand in Texas by our pals at Tactile Turn, the Buccaneer is the brand’s pen designed for Davy Jones or Captain Blackbeard, produced from titanium with a real 24kt gold plated bolt, a custom Cerakote paint job, and laser engravings on both the deep-carry clip and top. Whiskey Leatherworks The Rocks Glass - $55 If you’re like us and overspend on quality whiskey, why not also get bougie with your glasses? The Rocks Glass from Whiskey Leatherworks provides a set of two US-made glasses with leather wraps made from full-grain Brown English Bridle leather from Wickett & Craig. OffGrid Faraday Bag Mobile - $32 If security is at the top of your list, a Faraday Bag from OffGrid protects invasive signals while also giving you a great place to store (and shield) your device and other EDC items. We have talked at length about the risks of Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance and this is a great tool to mitigate some of that risk. Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester Work Bag - $289 A bag I use every time I travel, the Sandstorm Kenya Canvas Sylvester is manufactured in Kenya from recycled safari tent canvas and premium leather. This particular bag is big enough for a laptop, documents, and accessories. Bergeon 7825 Spring Bar Tweezers - $169 (Photo Credit: Orion Watches) If you’ve ever struggled to remove a bracelet from a watch without scratching the back of the lugs (we’re looking at you, Tudor), these Bergeon Spring Bar Tweezers are a lifesaver, making a challenging process much easier albeit at a cost. They aren’t cheap, but this is a buy once, cry once kind of thing. Other Stuff: TGN Supporter Subscription - $100 TGN is a community of like-minded individuals who believe in using their tools. Our friends and hosts Jason Heaton and James Stacey break down their love for adventure and shared addiction to watches while also (loosely) discussing travel, diving, driving, and gear. A subscription to TGN includes a grey TGN strap (of course), stickers, and access to additional content. Ad Patina - Prices Vary The best in the business when it comes to sourcing, curating, and framing advertisements both vintage and modern, Ad Patina is a great option for a watch enthusiast looking to complement their collection with something for the wall. Bad Art Nice Watch - Prices Vary If you want something completely custom, why not commission a piece on your favorite watch from Bad Art Nice Watch? North Carolina artist, Bryan Braddy, combines his passion for watches with his love for art. What started as a doodle at his kitchen table with his daughters has blossomed from a hobby into a business. The concepts of wabi-sabi as well as the acceptance and contemplation of imperfection guide the principles of his style. Books: For a more in-depth reading list, check out our previous dispatch article, W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror HERE. G-SHOCK, Ariel Adams - $37 G-Shock chronicles 40 years of history for an almost indestructible, affordable, resin-cased digital watch that has risen to prominence in our community. From 1983’s DW5000C to the brand’s current position as a favorite among hype beasts and the military alike, this is a great one for anyone who appreciates Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.). If you haven’t watched our video on G-Shock, check it out HERE. The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, Milt Bearden & James Risen - $14 In Milt Bearden and James Risen’s The Main Enemy: The Inside Story of the CIA's Final Showdown with the KGB, the authors, a 30-year Agency veteran, and a journalist, share stories of espionage from the Cold War from an insider’s perspective. Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, Scott Heileson - $100 One of the most celebrated partnerships in the arena of tool watches is the 70-year link between the Marine Nationale or French Navy and Tudor. In Marine Nationale: Vintage Military Watches of the French Navy, author and collector Scott Heileson shares an in-depth history of the collaboration as well as museum-quality examples of many of the issued watches. A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic, Doogie Horner - $21 There are probably a few of you out there who don’t think Die Hard was a Christmas movie. Luckily, it’s ok to be wrong every once in a while, and Doogie Horner’s A Die Hard Christmas: The Illustrated Holiday Classic is even more compelling evidence of the film’s holiday spirit, presented in a new and fun way. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror, Jack Carr & James M. Scott - $15 Like many in our community, we are big fans of Jack Carr’s Terminal List book series and its protagonist, James Reece. Targeted: Beirut: The 1983 Marine Barracks Bombing and the Untold Origin Story of the War on Terror is the author’s first foray into non-fiction, discussing the 1983 bombing of the US Embassy in Beirut and the attack’s lasting impact on the rise of global terrorism. 2054: A Novel, Elliot Ackerman & Admiral James Stavridis USN - $17 In 2054: A Novel, the authors continue their series with a dystopian future set twenty years after the last installment where a drastic advance in artificial intelligence prays on America’s violent partisan divide to create an existential threat to the country. This is one of those fictional pieces that provides commentary on what is happening right here and now. Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, Larry Vickers & James Williamson - $135 In Vickers Guide: Heckler & Koch, Volume 3, authors Larry Vickers and James Williamson continue their beautifully photographed series with a detailed history of the production of rifles and machine guns utilizing the roller-delayed blowback operating system at Heckler & Koch. A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them, Matt Hranek - $22.50 One of the most commonly gifted books for watch enthusiasts has to be Matt Hranek’s A Man & His Watch: Iconic Watches and Stories from the Men Who Wore Them. With professional photography of great watches and intriguing personal stories from the men who wear them, this book illustrates once again that a watch is never just a watch. Clothes & Shoes: ThruDark Heritech Moorland Fleece - $234 One apparel brand close to our community is ThruDark, which was co-founded by Anthony Stazicker CGC and Louis Tinsley, both operators from the UK Special Forces. Their stuff ain’t cheap, but quality seldom is, with the Heritech Moorland Fleece serving as a great example. Clarks Desert Boot Suede - $150 Originally developed in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili bazaar, the Desert Boot traces its origins to WWII when Commonwealth Forces began wearing these simple suede boots while fighting in the North African campaign. Today, the Clarks Originals Desert Boot in suede is the OG, and the standard pair of suede Desert Boots is one of the few looks that’s never out of place. Relwyn Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket - $318 It may be more of a cool-guy fashion brand, but Relwyn makes great jackets I often use for travel including the Quilted Insulated Tanker Jacket I wear all the time. Based on old-school military tanker jackets, the Relwyn has enough tech features to be capable while looking casual enough to wear just about anywhere. Field Ethos The Magnum FE Hat - $30 Deep down, we all want to be Thomas Magnum at least a little bit, and the Field Ethos Magnum FE Hat calls back to Magnum’s iconic lid while also celebrating our friends (who are also animals) at Field Ethos. Burly Selleck mustache not included. Goodr Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams - $25 If you’re of the Use Your Tools mentality, sunglasses can have a hard life. The best inexpensive sunglasses I’ve found capable of stacking up just fine against the expensive boys are from Goodr. For $25, the Bosley's Basset Hound Dreams are worth a shot. Spirits: Belle Meade Bourbon - Prices Vary We’re not bourbon hipsters, but Belle Meade’s bourbons are one of our top choices for casual sipping that isn’t obnoxiously expensive. If you’re newer to “fancy” bourbon, this is a great place to start. Hooten Young Whiskey & Cigars - Prices Vary Founded by former US Army Special Mission Unit Member (MSG RET) Norm Hooten and Tim Young, Hooten Young is another great example of entrepreneurship coming from Global War Of Terror SOF veterans. More than a novelty item getting by on its SpecOps associated, I’ve enjoyed every bottle I’ve tried from them. They also produce premium cigars. Four Branches Bourbon - Prices Vary Four Branches is a brand founded by four veterans from four different branches that produces high-end bourbon on a small batch basis. We were introduced to the brand by RJ Casey, a friend of W.O.E. who served with US Army Special Forces before joining the US Air Force Pararescue community. Knives: Winkler Knives Crusher Belt Knife - $375 Executed by craftsmen under the direct supervision of Master Bladesmith Daniel Winkler, Winkler Knives was born as a result of requests from special operators for edged weapons and tools to suit their unique needs. The Crusher Belt Knife is small enough for IWB use while being stout enough for a wide variety of use cases. Wolf Forty Designs SEAF - $350 Another brand producing edged tools with SpecOps in mind is Wolf Forty Designs. Their SEAF is the product of three Special Operations Veterans looking to take the best features from the knives they’ve used and combine them into a single multi-purpose 8-inch blade. Tabasco - $3 (Priceless) If you didn’t know this was coming, you probably should have. Three bucks for the world’s finest hot sauce. Enough said. W.O.E. Gift Card If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage from some of our favorite brands. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop
Read More2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From The W.O.E. Shop
Straps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles...
Read MoreStraps, Storage Options, & Other Purpose-Built Tools For Our Community 2024 has been a year of incredible growth for Watches of Espionage, with more articles on the Dispatch every week, the addition of our first full-time team member (intern), Benjamin Lowry, an Instagram following 185k strong, the launch of our YouTube Channel, and an ever-growing collection of tools on our site. Before we do anything else, thank you all for your continued support. The end of the year also means it’s time for the holidays, and we admit that watch enthusiasts and other gear-oriented people are notoriously hard to shop for. With that in mind, we assembled some of our top picks from the W.O.E store. Whether you’re shopping for yourself or trying to find exactly the right gift for the watch nerd in your life, this list includes a wide range of price ranges representing our most popular categories. *We will be closing up shop on December 14th this year for our holiday break. Please be sure to get your orders in before then.* Straps: One of the single best gift ideas for a watch enthusiast is a strap, a relatively inexpensive way to give a watch a new look. For a comprehensive look at the entire W.O.E. strap collection, click HERE, but here are some of our recommendations for this holiday season. NEW - W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap - $85 More than a year in development, the new W.O.E. FKM Rubber Strap is produced to our specifications from FKM or fluoroelastomer, the highest quality rubber material on the market, and paired with a custom engraved 316L stainless steel W.O.E. buckle. 007 Bond Nylon Strap - Five Eye - $35 In honor of filmmaking’s most legendary secret agent, the 007 versions of our Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap provide three distinct patterns recognizable to Bond fans paired with our custom matte weave nylon construction, custom 316L stainless steel “WOE” buckle, a reinforced stitched tip, and beveled keepers. Glomar Explorer - Hook And Loop Watch Strap - $47 to $49 Available with either stainless steel or new PVD black hardware, the Glomar Explorer Hook And Loop Watch Strap is a premium execution of the classic hook and loop nylon straps favored by divers for decades. Gear: In addition to straps, we offer a wide variety of EDC or everyday carry tools not intended for watches. These are great options fit for virtually anyone who appreciates quality, utility, and W.O.E. The Mosebey Blade - $358 Inspired by Bill “Bwana” Mosebey, a legendary Africa Division Case Officer, The Mosebey Blade is a fully customized all-purpose blade made in the USA from premium domestic materials. Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover - $145 Produced by hand by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota, the Leather & Canvas Moleskine Notebook Cover is made from full-grain leather and U.S. government spec canvas and intended to fit the (included) Moleskine Classic Softer Cover Notebook. W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat - $35 We didn’t reinvent the wheel here, they are hats. That said, this is the ultimate “if you know, you know,” and if someone recognizes you wearing the W.O.E. Spearhead Dad Hat, you are sure to have a new friend. The Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask - $89 For the adult beverage connoisseurs in the room, the Vespers Copper W.O.E. Flask is made of food-grade stainless steel coated with copper and wrapped with American-tanned English Tan Dublin leather from The Horween Tannery in Chicago. W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack Hook & Loop - $25 One of our best options if you’re unsure where else to look, our hook and loop-backed W.O.E. 3 Patch Pack includes three unique designs referencing key aspects of our “Use Your Tools” ethos. Watch Storage: Whether you’re traveling internationally or just want a great way to store your collection of tool watches, our watch storage options are custom-made to suit the high standards of our community. The Diplomat 4 Watch Roll - $165 Produced in the United States, the Diplomat 4 Watch Roll safely holds four watches while being hand-sewn in the USA with American-made waxed ripstop canvas and leather. Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin - $138 Our first custom tool and still one of our favorites, the Travel Pouch and Challenge Coin set is produced in the United States by our friends at Leatherworks Minnesota from US-tanned SB Foote leather and repurposed M81 camouflage material. 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case - $78 If security and safety from the elements are your primary concerns, the 6 Watch Storage & Travel Case is our best option, offering water resistance as well as custom-cut interior foam to safeguard your collection. W.O.E. X-Pac Strap Pouch - $42 Manufactured by hand in the United States from X-Pac, a waterproof three-layer material with a rugged camouflage 500D Cordura face fabric, the X-Pac Strap Pouch is an excellent option for straps, tools, or chargers. Home & Office: Whether you’re deeply into watches or not, our home and office collection provides excellent daily tools everyone can use to stay organized while demonstrating membership in our community. EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener - $115 For keys, watch accessories, or other small items, our EDC Travel Valet & Bottle Opener set is made from full grain leather and Mil-Spec canvas while coming with a custom metal bottle opener complete with the W.O.E. Spearhead insignia. W.O.E. Use Your Tools Coffee Mug - $35 If there’s one thing watch nerds and the military can agree on, it might be the importance of coffee. Our Use Your Tools Coffee Mug is handmade in the USA and complete with our Spearhead logo. W.O.E. Gift Card - $50 to $300 If you’re still lost after all of that, the best option could be the Watches of Espionage Gift Card, instantly available via email in a range of denominations from $50 to $300. – As we close in on the holidays, we sincerely hope this gift guide has helped you find the best holiday gifts of espionage. From everyone here at W.O.E., we appreciate your support and are excited to show you everything we’re working on for 2025. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Tactical Watches & Christmas Films - Die Hard, Lethal Weapon & Home Alone
Read MoreWatch Industry SITREP - November 2024
Trump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry...
Read MoreTrump’s NatSec Pick Wears A Rolex, New Omega Seamaster, Yakuza Stealing Luxury Watches, Giuliani Surrenders Watch Collection, & $50B Worth Of Submariners By Benjamin Lowry Welcome back to the Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, a brief recap and discussion of the previous month’s watch-related news and any other current events pertaining to our community. Here in the United States, Thanksgiving has come and gone and November is officially at an end. If it hasn’t already, Mariah Carey’s seminal work, "All I Want For Christmas Is You" will soon be bombarding your ears to harden your resolve ahead of another bustling yuletide season. But for now, let’s keep our sight picture squarely on watches and espionage. November offered a plethora of watch-related happenings from the worlds of politics, national security, and crime. In case you missed it, the US presidential election unveiled a new (old) president, with at least one of his potential appointments demonstrating solid watch taste likely related to his intriguing background. In addition, we have an updated Omega Seamaster, a legendary Japanese crime syndicate getting in on the watch theft trend, politicians surrendering watches, and some impressive Rolex stats. Trump’s Former SpecOps Pick For National Security Advisor Wears A Rolex GMT-Master II Rep. Mike Waltz is, like many members of US Army Special Forces, a Rolex guy. A few weeks back, President-elect Donald Trump asked Mike Waltz to serve as his national security advisor (NSA). We’re not here to comment on the political ramifications of Waltz serving in the role, but the Republican Representative from Florida does have quite the resume, having served in US Army Special Forces during the Global War On Terror and earning a total of four bronze stars (including two for valor). Waltz in Afghanistan wearing a Digital Tool Watch (D.T.W.). Embodying the adage that all a Special Forces man needs are “a star sapphire ring, a Randall knife, and a Rolex”, Waltz has been spotted on several occasions wearing a GMT-Master II, likely reference 126710 also known as the “Batman”. W.O.E. has been known to call the Rolex GMT-Master the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch. With Waltz and SF legend Billy Waugh serving as excellent anecdotal evidence, the model family has strong roots in Special Forces as well. (Photo Credit: Green Beret Foundation) In another photo from the 80th anniversary of D-Day in Normandy, France where Waltz jumped from a WWII-Era C-47, he is seen wearing an older Rolex GMT-Master II with the all-black bezel, potentially a reference 16710, on a nylon pull-through strap, clear indication Waltz is at least a little bit of a watch guy. A New Omega Seamaster Diver 300 Bares A Striking Resemblance To Unit Watches (Photo Credit: Omega) Leaked during the Olympics on the wrist of wannabe spy Daniel Craig, Omega finally officially unveiled its revamped Seamaster Diver 300. It’s not a meteoric change compared to the preexisting model, moving to a non-date format, transitioning from ceramic to aluminum for the dial and insert, and adding a mesh bracelet option. While we don’t typically cover new releases, there is an uncanny resemblance between the updated Seamaster Diver 300 and recent examples from Omega’s modern unit watch program that has outfitted the US Navy SEALs, US Secret Service, and the Danish Frogman Corps, to name a few. The US Secret Service Omega Seamaster unit watch. It would be a stretch to say the new watch was developed as an answer to the hype surrounding Omega’s unit watch program after the US Secret Service variant was spotted on the wrist of an agent during the attempted assassination of President-elect Donald Trump, but in any case, we’re happy to see one of the most popular luxury dive watches move in a more utilitarian direction better suited to the Use Your Tools lifestyle. Yakuza Suspected In Coordinated Luxury Theft Of 172 Rolex Watches An alleged Yakuza member wearing a Rolex Submariner “Bluesy”. (Photo Credit: Sabukaru) Recently in Osaka, Japan, a delivery van loaded with over 170 new Rolex watches was stolen while its driver left the vehicle unattended and unlocked for “around three minutes”. Three individuals have since been arrested in connection to the theft, with one having strong ties to the Yakuza, a legendary organized crime syndicate with roots dating back 300 years. As you’d imagine, the van was later dumped after being emptied of its horological contents, which had an estimated value of $1.9M. If your AD has been dodging you, now might be a great time to check Chrono24’s Japanese Rolex listings… I’m just saying. Also in Osaka, a store clerk and police detained a would-be robber after he attempted to flee with four luxury watches. While much of the conversation surrounding watch theft in 2024 revolves around European cities including London and Paris or New York and Los Angeles in the United States, this coordinated robbery demonstrates a growing trend in Japan. In contrast to the strongarm robberies often perpetrated in Europe and the US, watch thefts in Japan are, other than this delivery van robbery, typically characterized by organized smash and grabs of high-profile retail locations. For another example of an organized crime syndicate focused on watches and jewelry, check out our recent Dispatch on the Pink Panthers (HERE). Rudy Giuliani Surrenders 26 Luxury Watches After $148M Lawsuit L Giuliani wearing a Shinola chronograph that appears to have been among his surrendered watches. Former New York City Mayor and Time Magazine Person of the Year Rudy Giuliani has been ordered to surrender 26 luxury watches as well as a 1980 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 formerly owned by movie star Lauren Bacall. This comes after Giuliani’s meteoric $148M loss in a defamation lawsuit filed by two Georgia election workers following the 2020 US presidential election. Giuliani has been the subject of no shortage of financial concerns as of late, and it looks unlikely that he will be able to repay the $148M, hence the surrender of many of his personal effects which also includes a $5M apartment on the Upper East Side. A screen capture from Ted Goodman’s video on X showing some of Guiliani’s surrendered watches. (Photo Credit: X) On November 14th, a spokesperson for Giuliani, Ted Goodman, posted a video on X showing 18 watches and a ring he said were in the process of being turned over to relevant authorities. According to court documents, these watches include Bulova, Shinola, Tiffany & Co, Seiko, Frank Muller, Graham, Corium, Rolex, IWC, Invicta, Breitling, Raymond Weil, and Baume & Mercer. In the video, Goodman goes on to say, “This is the accumulation of 60 years of hard work. Many of these watches hold great sentimental value.” Whatever Guiliani’s watch collection is worth, it’s a small drop in a $148M bucket. The Total Value Of The World’s Rolex Submariners Surpasses Many Nations Analysis of data released in the recent Rolex Submariner book provided surprising conclusions. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Based on analysis of the production data for Rolex Submariners released in the Crown’s recent book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner—The Watch That Unlocked The Deep, the combined value of all of the nearly four million Submariner and Sea-Dweller models produced over the years adds up to a weighty $50B. It’s an astonishing figure, but the real revelations stem from contextual analysis of what a number like that means. We would have guessed the total value of Rolex’s Subs would have been a lot, but still… $50B is, for example, greater than the GDP or gross domestic product of countries like Jordan, Tunisia, Bahrain, El Salvador, Cambodia, and Iceland (according to 2023 World Bank Data). Of course, you can’t compile all of the world’s Submariners into an unholy Scrooge McDuck-style pool of gold doubloons, but the world-beating figure does help to illustrate the size of the global financial impact commanded by Rolex SA over the decades, which also turned over no less than $10B in 2023. We’re not here for Ernst Blofeld comparisons, but what kind of bargaining power and political influence does that offer to a brand that is already also among the most recognized on Earth? There’s a reason they call it “The Crown”, and it ain’t just the logo. Final Thoughts As we brace ourselves for the holiday season, we sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed your monthly helping of watch industry news and commentary. From a former Special Forces guy being picked to work in the White House with a Rolex Batman on the wrist to Rudy Giuliani’s forfeited watch collection to a Yakuza luxury watch heist, and an astonishing Rolex statistic, the November gales of watch industry content blew fast and strong. If you appreciate this format or have other stories you’d like to see covered in next month’s SITREP, please do not hesitate to let us know in the comments. If something about our coverage offended or upset you, we’re confident you’ll have no trouble expressing your concerns as well. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - October 2024
Read MoreThe Newly-Discovered Watches Of SEALAB III & The Records That Prove It
US Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s...
Read MoreUS Navy-Issued Doxas, Rolex, & A Complete Surprise By Benjamin Lowry The US Navy’s SEALAB experiments of the 1960s were pioneering attempts to prove man’s ability to live and work on the sea floor for an extended period, supported by a specialized underwater habitat. The techniques and equipment developed for SEALAB I, II, and III would later be used in shadowy underwater espionage targeting the Soviet Union, but SEALAB is better remembered to watch enthusiasts for some of the legendary watches used by some of history’s boldest divers. In this Dispatch, I’ll share how a chance encounter with a piece of handwritten history forever alters our understanding of the watches of the Navy’s final SEALAB project. __ For someone like me, the Man In The Sea Museum in Panama City Beach is something akin to paradise, providing one of the world’s most impressive collections of vintage military diving memorabilia, much of it related to SEALAB. Given the timing, SEALAB is associated with some of history’s great tool dive watches and played a key role in the development of the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Artist’s rendering of SEALAB III, the Navy’s final experiment to prove men could live and work on the sea floor. (Photo Credit: US Navy) But, despite what the internet may say, Rolex isn’t the only name in the SEALAB game. Thumbing through old binders while volunteering in the museum’s library, I came across an issue log for dive watches hand-written in 1968 by a SEALAB legend. The usual suspects including Rolex were there, but the log also illuminated the outsized role played by Doxa as well as another Swiss brand I would argue no one would ever guess. In this Dispatch, we’ll look to archival evidence, interviews with surviving Aquanauts, and a few educated guesses to provide the most complete picture ever assembled of the watches of SEALAB III. Man In The Sea Museum, Panama City Beach - 2022 My dad and I were hard at work cataloging and organizing the library in the Man in the Sea Museum when we came across a document that stopped us in our tracks. In this increasingly digitized world, there are still a few horological secrets lost to history waiting to be uncovered, the type of secrets that haven’t been converted to PDF. The same watch stories make the rounds again and again, some amazing discoveries are put forth by genuine horological enthusiasts, and some stories are haphazardly cobbled together by brands to help push more watches. Searching for dive watches in vintage photographs at the Man in the Sea Museum is the stuff of legend. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) Most are somewhere in between. Watches have never received the amount of attention they do today. Record-keeping for the sake of enthusiasm or posterity was not common practice. This is also true in the arena of dive watches, fostering a healthy debate about the actual timeline of the introduction of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and Rolex Submariner, in particular. Except when it comes to the military. In military settings and especially diving, recording every bit of minutiae is an occupational necessity, a matter of life and death in certain cases. Luckily, as a Coast Guard veteran turned commercial diver, it happens to be my area of interest, which is how I found myself volunteering to help organize the Man in the Sea Museum’s stacked but admittedly disheveled library a couple of years ago. The Man In The Sea Museum is home to the original SEALAB habitat as well as an incredible library full of old US Navy records. Leafing through records from the SEALAB programs, I came across a few scribbled lines on notebook paper that validated my years-long horological quest to understand the role of tool watches in the United States military, particularly in underwater applications. Along with these handwritten records, I uncovered hundreds of photographs from SEALAB that had yet to be digitized, and therefore, had yet to be seen by the watch community, until now. A dive watch enthusiast’s dream. An archival photo from the SEALAB program shows Dr. George “Papa Topside” Bond (left), Captain William Nicholson (center), and Commander Jack Tomsky (right). Tomsky is wearing a Doxa Sub. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) I went through binder after binder of records from all three of the Navy’s SEALAB experiments. I was looking for something that clued me into what equipment was used, particularly what watches were used. These aquanauts recorded everything. It was part of their job, of course, but the level of detail was staggering. A detailed record of saturation dives undertaken in a chamber at the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) preceding SEALAB III. (Source: US Navy) Finally, after hours spent carefully flipping through delicate aged paper and deciphering faded handwriting from the ‘60s, my efforts paid off. A list of the exact watches that were used on SEALAB III. And when I say exact, I mean it—right down to the serial numbers. And it came directly from one of the aquanauts, meticulously detailed like everything else about the mission. While several watchmakers have established SEALAB connections—including an excellent article by Justin Couture detailing the role potentially played by Aquastar—some of the brands mentioned in the log had never really been in the SEALAB conversation before, let alone with hard evidence of being officially issued by the US Navy. If I could, with the help of friends and former Aquanauts, prove the veracity of this hastily written log, our understanding of military dive watches would be forever altered. Here is the handwritten log that sent me so deeply down the rabbit hole. The original handwritten log was reportedly penned by none other than Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to serve on all three SEALAB missions. For the sake of legibility and to aid in deciphering the shorthand, I have—with help from surviving aquanauts—added some context to the list to help give us a better picture of who these watches were issued to. Watches Issued On 03 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Rolex, 25 jewels Cyril Tuckfield, Chief Petty Officer, USN Rolex, serial 1478174 Derek J. Clark, Petty Officer First Class, Royal Navy Jaquet Droz Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa William P. Lukeman, Leading Seaman, Royal Canadian Navy Doxas Issued To Aquanauts On 23 Sep & 27 Sep 1968 SEALAB III Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies Lieutenant Commander, USN Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Doxa 6665367 Mark E. Bradley, Lieutenant Commander, Medical Corps, USN Doxa 6665417 Robert A. Bornholdt, Lieutenant, USN, Team Leader Aquanaut Bob Barth’s Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Unsurprisingly, we see the usual suspects on the wrists of the aquanauts, starting with Rolex, although it’s important to note that what was sometimes recorded as Rolex was sometimes actually a Tudor Submariner, as Rolex took care of distribution and delivery. In ‘69, the US Navy had a contract with Tudor that had already begun in the late ‘50s, so there’s a chance these watches came from that procurement arrangement. A brand associated with anything but diving in 2024, I was surprised to see Jaquet Droz mentioned in the issue log from SEALAB III. Looking through the list, something else stood out immediately. “JK Droz” was listed in the records as having been issued to an aquanaut. Surely not the Swatch-owned atelier producing automatons that cost six figures and watches with all sorts of crazy enameling and decorations. Jaquet Droz isn’t a name you hear in the W.O.E. sphere often. The brand has never once been mentioned on this site before, and they certainly don’t fit in with the “Watches of Espionage” crop of brands. As usual, there are layers to the story. But first, let’s look at the watches from brands we do know something about: Doxa and Rolex. While Doxa has been loosely associated with SEALAB and Navy Divers in the past, the discovery of this document adds clarity to the brand’s official position as a US Navy-issued watch during the SEALAB experiments. Digging deeper into the Doxa watches on the list, the brand’s serial numbering convention has been well documented by MKWS, a Doxa expert on Watchuseek. MKWS posits that Doxa introduced a 7-digit system where the first two numbers correspond to the year of production. In the case of all the models issued to SEALAB, that number is 66, which would suggest they were produced in ‘66, at least in theory. Officially released in 1967, there are only a few other examples of Doxa Sub 300 models from 1966, meaning the US Navy was among the earliest adopters of the brand. If that’s not an endorsement for a new-to-market dive watch, especially when Navy Divers already had access to Rolex and Tudor Submariners, I’m not sure what is. A Doxa Sub 300 from 1967. (Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) Interestingly, the only Rolex serial number listed also registers as being produced in ‘66 (Rolex serial numbers of that era aren’t an exact science, but can be traced to an approximate year of production). This all checks out, as the gearing up for SEALAB III would have taken place during this time. SEALAB II had been a successful mission in ‘65, and SEALAB III took some time due to engineering requirements and modifications that allowed the habitat to go significantly deeper than the previous two missions, 610 feet as opposed to 205 feet for SEALAB II and 192 feet for SEALAB I. The Vietnam War also put pressure on budgets for such a novel and costly project. Bob Barth (right) wearing his Rolex Submariner 5512, one of many Rolex Submariners used on the SEALAB missions. Much of the equipment and material—including watches—for the final SEALAB program was likely carried over from SEALAB I and II. After Doxa, the second most present brand appearing in the logs was Rolex, and the Crown had certainly been ever-present in underwater exploration for nearly a decade at the commencement of SEALAB III. Bob Barth, the only aquanaut to have dived on all three SEALAB missions, was reportedly instrumental in developing the Rolex Sea Dweller. This SEALAB III Rolex Submariner is not on our list but was owned by Leo Gies and sold by Bonhams in 2015. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Barth dove with his Rolex Submariner on SEALAB I and II, so it’s no surprise to see several Submariners listed in the SEALAB III records. Another Rolex Submariner was issued to Leo Gies who is recorded on our list as having received a Doxa. Gies’s Submariner—which was sold by Bonhams on behalf of the Gies family in 2015—was engraved “SEALAB III” on the back, which makes its absence from our list all the more interesting. Maybe there is another handwritten log out there. Our research continues. We’ll do another Dispatch on the role of Rolex in US Navy Undersea Research, but for now, let’s continue by discussing the role played by Doxa in the dive watch landscape of the late 1960s. Doxa & Diving In The 1960s Georges Ducommun founded Doxa in 1899, and the company quickly developed a reputation for producing a broad range of dress and sport watches—but the brand will always be best remembered for its contributions to the world of undersea timekeeping. In the 1960s, Doxa was one of the front-runners when it came to producing watches specifically for professional diving applications. The “skin diver” category of watches was well established, with sporty watches suitable for recreational water activity. These came out of the recreational diving boom of the late ‘50s, but as diving equipment became more technologically advanced, so did the need for a watch that could handle significant depth and pressure, but more importantly, remain legible in murky water. This is where Doxa’s signature design element surfaced; the company found that a specific hue of orange was most visible underwater. The bright orange “Professional” dial became their calling card. Legendary oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau wearing a Doxa Sub 300T “Sharkhunter”. The Sub 300 and later 300T models emerged from Doxa’s design and field studies and quickly became a popular diving watch for professionals—the intended target segment, and the military alike. The Swiss Armed Forces purchased and issued this model to Swiss combat divers in approximately 1970. Bolstered by its inclusion in Clive Cussler’s thriller novels, the orange dial and “beads-of-rice” bracelet have become a common sight in recreational and military dive communities ever since. The model also became popular because it was championed by none other than French oceanographer Jacques Costeau. Doxa & The US Navy A Navy Experimental Diving Unit photo from the early 1970s shows a Doxa Sub 300T Professional in use. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) With a better grasp of the brands and watches on the list, our next step was to track down and speak with the surviving aquanauts, one of whom provided a bombshell about the written log’s author. When we reached out to aquanaut Richard “Blackie” Blackburn, he took one look at the log and confirmed that it was the handwriting of none other than Bob Barth, the Bob Barth who helped create the Sea-Dweller, pioneering the use of a helium escape valve in watches in the process. Barth was also, according to Blackburn, the man who kept track of where all the Navy’s Doxa Sub models and other watches were going. Unfortunately, Barth passed in 2020, so we weren’t going to be able to ask him directly about the log, but our research carried on. It’s also important to note there is no mention of the Doxa Conquistador in our log, which is a specific version of the 300T equipped with a helium escape valve. For more on the rarest Doxa Sub variant, check out Perezcope’s research on Doxa’s role in developing the helium escape valve. Given SEALAB was a saturation diving experiment—the one environment where you need the valve—it would have made sense for Doxa to have sent over the Conquistador, but we found no definitive evidence of this being the case. There are numerous examples of Doxa Sub models being used by Navy Divers, but their role in SEALAB hasn’t been confirmed until now. (Photo Credit: Man in the Sea Museum) The next step was taking stock of exactly what was issued using the records and then matching those serial numbers with the watches on the wrists of aquanauts, if possible. It was time for the detective work. While many have passed—SEALAB III took place 55 years ago—five of the aquanauts listed in the log as the recipients of Doxa watches are still alive today. We started by tracking down their contact info and cold-sending emails to these legends of undersea exploration. Doxa 6665364 Richard M. Blackburn, Aviation Ordnanceman First Class, USN Taken while working on an oil spill in California after leaving the Navy, this photo shows Richard Blackburn’s Rolex GMT-Master, a gift from Bob Barth upon his retirement. Whether or not Blackburn ever received a Doxa remains a mystery. (Photo Credit: Richard Blackburn) When I sent an email to Richard “Blackie” Blackburn with my number in the signature, my phone rang about two minutes later. After identifying the handwriting on the log as that of Bob Barth, Blackie informed me he had no recollection of ever being issued a Doxa. But, he said it wasn’t that unusual to see his name on the log, describing Barth’s issue process for watches as being as casual as “trading a cup of coffee” for a watch in certain instances before noting the transaction in his log with whatever name and number moved him at the time. Years later, Barth made up for it, gifting Blackburn a Rolex GMT-Master with his name and “SEALAB III” engraved on the caseback, a watch that he lost to a shady watch repairman years later. Doxa 6665354 Cyril F. Lafferty, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Team Leader Cyril Lafferty during SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: Shared By Perezcope) Because of a photo circulating the web showing the former Royal Navy officer wearing a Doxa, I felt confident Cyril Lafferty, who was loaned to the US Navy SEALAB project by Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, might have the goods. While Mr. Lafferty confirmed he is the man in the photo wearing a Doxa, he said he had no recollection of being issued a Doxa watch or any other by the US Navy. He did remember being issued a Rolex or Omega by the Royal Navy, however. Later serving as the captain of the Royal Navy’s only deep-diving research vessel, HMS Reclaim, Lafferty went on to pioneer hyperbaric treatment techniques for multiple sclerosis. Doxa 6665425 James H. Osborn, Lieutenant Commander, Civil Engineer Corps, USN Then-LCDR Osborn preparing for a dive in 1968. (Photo Credit: Jim Osborn) In an email exchange with retired Captain Osborn, he confirmed he was issued a Doxa watch and wore it for all of the years he was an active Navy Diver before making the change to a Seiko in 1983, a gift from his wife when he retired from the Navy. Years later, Osborn sold the Doxa and a personal Rolex to a jeweler, saying, “The cash went into my pocket and I never gave it a second thought.” We may not have the watch or its serial number, but this is a second piece of evidence—after the Laffery photo—supporting the issue log we found. Doxa 6665416 Leo Gies, Lieutenant Commander, USN While I failed to contact LCDR Gies via email, the salty old Naval officer was kind enough to give me a call one Friday morning. Despite the passing of some five and half decades, Gies is razor sharp and remembered being issued a Rolex dive watch before receiving the Doxa when he joined the SEALAB III program. Sadly, the Doxa is no longer in his possession. After leaving the Doxa with a watchmaker in the 1970s, Mr. Gies explained he never saw it again, thinking it was perhaps sold under dubious circumstances. It’s the kind of thing that could break a watch enthusiast’s heart, but for Gies, another lost diving tool wasn’t a huge deal then or now. In any case, Gies’s recollection serves as another hard firsthand link confirming the US Navy’s issue of Doxa watches during SEALAB III. Doxa 6665358 Keith H. Moore, Machinist’s Mate Second Class, USN I met Omar Moore in 2022 at a SEALAB reunion. He was wearing a Navy-issued Doxa T-graph, the stuff of legend. The hardest to track down was ironically the only aquanaut from the list I have met in person, Keith “Omar” Moore. On the very trip where I discovered the issue log in question, I also attended 2022’s SEALAB reunion. Moore attended wearing the impeccable example of a Doxa T-Graph photographed above, a watch he says was also issued to him by the Navy in 1968, before its commercial introduction in 1969. Could one of the serial numbers on this list belong to Moore’s T-Graph? After several unanswered emails, I asked a couple of the other aquanauts I connected with to vouch for me to Moore. 1968 photo of Omar Moore showing the incredible amount of gear worn by divers training for SEALAB III. (Photo Credit: US Navy) It did the trick. One morning a few days later, the phone rang. Moore informed me he was indeed issued a Doxa on one of the days listed in our note. He remembered Bob Barth setting up a small folding table not unlike a bake sale where SEALAB III divers and support staff could go and make an argument for why they should be issued a watch. Moore’s rapport with Barth was good, and Moore distinctly remembered Barth throwing him his brand new Searambler dial Doxa in its box from “across the room”. Where Barth got the watches from is unclear, but it is at least possible Doxa sent the watches to Barth directly or in the care of Barth because of his status as one of the “celebrity” aquanauts along with Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter. In any case, a few months later, Barth gave Moore another Doxa, this time the then-pre-production T-Graph chronograph. Moore remembered using both extensively in training dives and while supporting the construction and installation of the SEALAB III at no less than 610 feet of seawater off the coast of California’s San Clemente Island. “Mr. Moore, can I take a photo of your watch?” “Sure, man, whatever”. Unfortunately, when I was finally able to confirm the serial numbers of Moore’s Doxa, both of which he still has, neither matched the handwritten log. Here are the numbers as read (and confirmed) from Moore’s Doxa watches: Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph - Serial: 6675653 Doxa Sub 300 Searambler - Serial: 717923 How the documented serial numbers manage to differ from Moore’s actual watches is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the recordkeeping on Barth’s part was simply not great—a theory Moore seconded—or the names and numbers had become mixed up as could easily happen with any piece of diving equipment. The idea that the first two numbers of a Doxa serial number indicate the year is also not watertight at this point as we are pretty sure the T-Graph wasn’t around in 1966 when the Doxa Sub itself was in its infancy. There are other examples of vintage T-Graphs with “66” as the beginning of the serial number, so I believe Moore’s example to be correct. Omar Moore’s incredible Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph. While it isn’t the smoking gun I was hoping for—a perfect match between the serial numbers on the handwritten log and the caseback of a Doxa Sub owned by a surviving Aquanaut—we’ve done more than enough to prove the role played by Doxa during SEALAB III and after, serving as an intriguing addition to the annals of dive and military watch history. Of course, the mission to record these stories for posterity is never over, so let’s finish with a closer look at the role played potentially by Jaquet Droz during SEALAB III. Though the log lists Moore as the recipient of a “JK Droz”, he has no memory of the watch. The plot thickens… An Unexpected Contender Jaquet Droz produced dozens of dive watches during the 1960s and 70s. Could some of them have been used on SEALAB III? The records indicate that several “JK Droz” watches were also issued alongside the Doxa models. If that sounds familiar, that’s because it sounds like the modern luxury brand “Jaquet Droz” that produces intricate automaton watches. And there is indeed a connection—but let’s get it straight—aquanauts were not wearing complicated watches featuring mechanical butterflies and singing birds worth tens of thousands of dollars during SEALAB III. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a prolific watchmaker and automaton producer in the 1700s based in the Swiss city of Neuchatel. His name looms large in the Swiss Jura watchmaking region, and that makes it the perfect borrowed name for a brand—or many. Throughout the years, a few brands have resurrected the Jaquet Droz name to capitalize on his fame and imply a quality product, but many of these have a tenuous connection at best. They all originated in the same area of Switzerland, but that’s about it. It’s next to impossible to know for sure, but there are a few watch sightings in SEALAB archives that could be Jaquet Droz. The "JK Droz" watches that were issued have yet to be spotted. They could well be one of the ones pictured above or below, but we have no conclusive evidence. Given the timeframe and the role of the watch, it makes sense that the watch came from Jaquet Droz SA registered by Dr. Charles-Edouard Virchaux in 1964. The name was used to brand watches in the “Coopérative” that he ran. The Coopérative was essentially an OEM manufacturer that produced what were known as “catalog watches” that could be branded by any number of clients. (Photo Credit: Naval Undersea Museum) His in-house brand became known as Jaquet Droz, and they produced watches that looked similar to watches from a number of popular tool watch brands at the time. In the photo above, the “C” case might appear at first glance to be an Aquastar—and it may well be—but indeed Jaquet Droz also produced models resembling this design. Since the logs indicate that a few “JK Droz” watches were issued, this may be one, possibly even a standard skin diver whose bezel fell off. We may never know, but with period ads boasting that there were 1000 distinct models available, the possibility is there. Jaquet Droz might not get named along with the usual undersea living and exploration watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but that’s just it—the story is constantly being written. With these documents, two new brands are imbued with the lore of the United States Navy’s SEALAB program. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Dive Watch - How The Military Helped To Shape History’s Greatest Tool Watch
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: Hollywood Watches of Espionage
SpecOps, Spies, & Military Watches In Movies Watches play a significant role in films, and an accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch...
Read MoreSpecOps, Spies, & Military Watches In Movies Watches play a significant role in films, and an accurate depiction of a character often includes a watch they might actually wear. This is especially true in movies focusing on the military and intelligence. Whether we’re talking about mercenaries, arms dealers, CIA Officers, or Navy SEALs, a thoughtfully selected timepiece can complement a fictional character, lending a sense of credibility and bridging the gap between reality and Hollywood—especially for those in the know. Watches in popular films are also influential. Believe it or not, we know plenty of real spies and operators whose watch choices were influenced by movies. Take for example the Omega Seamaster and its connection to James Bond. Even though Omega pays big bucks to be the watch of choice for 007, the Seamaster has still become a go-to option for real-life intelligence officers, a classic case of life imitating art and vice versa. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube channel, we discuss some of the most accurate and intriguing depictions of watches in movies relevant to our community. Enjoy episode six of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreWatch Industry SITREP - October 2024
New Omega & Tudor Watches For Military Pilots, Exploding Pagers, Stolen Astronaut Watch Recovered, & Even More Watch Crime By Benjamin Lowry The Watch Industry...
Read MoreNew Omega & Tudor Watches For Military Pilots, Exploding Pagers, Stolen Astronaut Watch Recovered, & Even More Watch Crime By Benjamin Lowry The Watch Industry SITREP or Situation Report, is a brief discussion of the preceding month’s watch industry news and current events related to the W.O.E. community. Based on feedback, we will ensure each story directly relates to Watches of Espionage and is not just a regurgitation of watch news you can get elsewhere. If you’re here looking for a hot take on the new Patek Philippe x Minecraft collab, you have come to the wrong place. Before we don our costumes and head out the door for Trick or Treat, this past month provided no shortage of intriguing W.O.E. stories, more watch-related crime, and even some explosive international espionage. To start, we have a rare Omega “unit watch” produced for a specialized aviation unit, once again showing the impact watches from within our community can have on the broader watch industry. Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified “Unit Watch” The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified in action. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Thanks to a few cell phone photos from Navy SEALs, more widespread coverage of Danish King Frederik’s Frømandskorpset Omega Seamaster Diver 300, and most prominently, a watch worn by a member of former President Trump’s protective detail during his assassination attempt, the cat is very much out of the bag when it comes to Omega’s formerly secretive unit watch program. However, thus far, we’ve largely seen the Seamaster as the watch of choice for Omega’s customized military projects, that is until the leak and later confirmation of a novel variant of the Speedmaster available only to US Military pilots and navigators. The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified can be ordered by qualified US military pilots and aircrew and is available with a range of different case back insignia. (Photo Credit: Omega Forums) Most of the details surrounding the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified come from a military pilot active on Omega Forums, including an insane action shot of the watch in the cockpit juxtaposed against the edge of the Earth’s atmosphere—very cool. In contrast to the commercially available Speedy variants, the Flight Qualified offers up a color-coded display taking inspiration from Omega’s long-gone Flightmaster. According to the pilot on Omega Forums, you must be a qualified aviator, pilot, or navigator to place an order, and the watch is available with a range of different case backs to reflect specific insignia or squadrons. Our look at Omega’s unit watch program has become one of our most popular articles, and it’s great to see the brand broadening its collection of military-only offerings to include the aviation community. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT & The Marine Nationale Following up on the original Pelagos FXD of 2021, the new Pelagos FXD GMT is yet another product of Tudor’s longstanding partnership with the Marine Nationale or French Navy. But where the original FXD was developed for diving with the combat swimmers of the Commando Hubert, the new watch was allegedly designed to meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale, the MN’s aviation component. Coming from Tudor, this was a highly publicized release, and we plan to cover the watch in greater detail but will wait until we have information beyond what is already out there in press releases. At a glance, this is another cool release from Tudor that speaks directly to our community while also feeling like a great basis for future unit watches. Exploding Lebanese Pagers & The Dangers Of Connected Tech A crowd developed outside Beirut Medical Center as the injured poured in after the pager attack. (Photo Credit: Mohamed Azakir/Reuters) Expanding beyond the reach of the watch media, the preceding weeks also produced one of the more memorable and public instances of espionage in recent memory when pagers belonging to members of Hezbollah and others exploded in a coordinated fashion on September 17th. The pagers, which were developed and inserted into Hezbollah’s supply chain by Mossad, Israel’s intelligence agency, were packed with hidden explosives and designed to explode almost in unison, causing at least 37 deaths and thousands of injuries. While the use of pagers is not widespread in 2024, Hezbollah has opted for simpler tech in recent years, forgoing cell phones and other more complex wearables that are easily compromised by Israeli intelligence. The remains of exploded pagers. (Photo Credit: Getty) What does this have to do with watches? We’ve written extensively on the counterintelligence risks of smartwatches, and this attack once again demonstrates the dangers of connected technology and the lengths intelligence services are willing to go to reach their adversaries. With this attack setting a precedent, it is conceivable that a future attack could incorporate compromising smartwatches through the insertion of explosives or other means. As the attacks in Lebanon again prove, any level of connection, even the relatively simple tech involved in a pager, is more than enough for lethal effect. Spymaster Mark Zuckerberg Joins The W.O.E. Community With A Series Of Deep Cuts A Patek, two F.P. Journes, and a JLC make for one hell of a watch enthusiast starter pack. Mark Zuckerberg is arguably the greatest spymaster of the 21st Century. Monthly active users of Meta products (Facebook, Instagram, and WhatsApp) are estimated to be up to 3 billion people, approximately 37% of the world's population, a remarkable fact. Zuck knows who you are, where you are, and your deepest secrets. He wields significant political influence with the ability to curate what you see by enforcing opaque community standards. So it is no surprise that spymaster Zuck, an individual traditionally known to wear t-shirts and hoodies, has finally caved and given into the world of Watches of Espionage. We wish him the warmest welcome to our community! Zuck was also recently spotted wearing an F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Aluminium. Zuckerberg has jumped into watch collecting with both feet and a surprising amount of taste by billionaire standards, already adding a Patek Philippe reference 5236P perpetual calendar, two F.P. Journe models, and a more obscure JLC to his collection. Of course, a watch is never just a watch, and Zuckerberg is no doubt aware of the inferences people will make based on his newfound appreciation of horology. It’s not rare for someone with billions of spare dollars to get into watch collecting, but Zuck’s approach suggests he is actually a fan of real horology or at least well-advised by knowledgeable enthusiasts or collectors. FBI Recovers Stolen Space-Worn Speedmaster & Returns It To The Smithsonian Eisele wearing two Speedmasters during training for Apollo 7. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) This isn’t a new story but rather a classic from a few years back that was recently augmented with new information thanks to a FOIA document request by Jason Leopold over at Bloomberg. We all know US astronauts were issued Omega Speedmaster watches purchased directly from the Swiss brand by NASA. Once reaching the end of their service to the Space Program, most astronauts were expected to return the watches to NASA which then donated many—including a space-flown Speedy worn by Apollo 7 astronaut Donn Eisele—to the Smithsonian. Later loaned to the Instituto Geográfico Militar, a museum in Quito, Ecuador in 1988, Eisele’s Speedmaster was stolen the following year and in the wind for almost three decades, which is where it gets interesting. Smithsonian Inspector General documents detailing the return of the Eisele’s Omega Speedmaster. (Photo Credit: Bloomberg) In 2017, a tipster informed the Smithsonian they believed the missing watch—which is valued at $400k—was in private hands in Texas. The Smithsonian’s Inspector General, which is a thing, contacted the FBI who then located and met with the current owner. After verifying the serial number and the watch’s authenticity, and following a few stern words from the FBI, the dubious collector agreed to return the Omega to the Smithsonian to avoid further legal ramifications. You have to love a happy ending. Surprisingly, a total of six Speedmasters used by astronauts are still missing after having been stolen while either on loan or en route to other museums, including the Speedmaster worn by Buzz Aldrin on the moon during Apollo 11. Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Sells At Auction For $1.73M Mitchell’s GMT-Master is believed to be the first worn on the Moon. (Photo Credit: RR Auction) Keeping the space theme alive, the first Rolex worn on the moon was auctioned off a few days ago, hammering for an astounding $1.73M (before buyer's premium), well above its $400k estimate. This particular GMT-Master was worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on Apollo 14, likely underneath his space suit, while his NASA-issued Speedmaster managed primary timing duties. We at W.O.E. mostly don’t care about auction results and want nothing less than to aid in driving already insane prices with any sort of media coverage, but at times, history and the often frustrating world of auction houses intersect, and Mitchell’s GMT-Master is an important piece of not only the history of space flight but also horological history. Mitchell wearing his GMT-Master during Apollo 14. As Omega’s marketing often reminds us, they are the watchmaker of manned space flight, but that isn’t to say there aren’t other players, which is particularly interesting when astronauts chose to wear Rolex watches in space in addition to their Omegas. Ours is clearly not the first generation of Use Your Tools watch enthusiasts. Having sold for well over 1.5 million dollars, this kind of thing is out of reach for virtually all of us but incredibly cool nonetheless. We may never know, but I can't help but wonder whether it was Rolex itself which purchased the watch. The Crown is no stranger to preserving its history by buying up important vintage examples. Man Robbed Of $100k Worth Of Luxury Watches In Las Vegas The scene of the crime. (Photo Credit: AP Photo) In a real-life homage to the classic 2009 film, The Hangover, a man was robbed of approximately $100,000 worth of luxury watches from Rolex and Audemars Piguet after a very long night in Las Vegas. According to the Las Vegas Review Journal, a man and his friend were approached by two women while enjoying an adult beverage at a bar at Encore Las Vegas. After a certain amount of discussion, the women suggested the men head upstairs where further vigorous interactions were intended to take place. The victim allegedly fell asleep in his room where he had been “hanging out” with one of the women before both ladies elected to leave. In what may be the least surprising piece of news this month, the sleeping victim was relieved of several luxury watches including, “...an Audemars Piguet watch with a black face and full diamonds, valued at $80,000, a Rolex Presidential watch that features a green face and full diamonds, valued at $25,000, and a Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” watch with a black face, valued at $15,000.” Bummer. The victim also sent a Zelle transaction to someone named “Nikaila” though he conveniently has no memory of who that person could possibly be or why he would have sent them money. Some mysteries aren't meant to be solved. As it happens, this story has at least one happy ending. Las Vegas casinos have a lot of cameras and both women have since been arrested after being identified in surveillance footage from the scene. We’ve spoken at length about traveling with watches, but suffice it to say you’re probably better off leaving your $100k watch collection at home when traveling to Sin City, especially if you’re hoping to make friends. And people wonder why everyone meets on Tinder these days… Final Thoughts Whether it’s a pair of watch-thirsty ladies of the night, a new Omega unit watch for aviators, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, an astronaut’s stolen Speedy, exploding pagers, or Zuck’s new watch-collecting habit, the preceding month or so offered a plethora of intriguing events relating to the W.O.E. community. We sincerely hope you guys have as much fun reading this column as we have writing it, and please be sure to share any events we failed to mention in the comments so they can be considered for next month’s SITREP. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Watch Industry SITREP - September
Read MoreWatches Of Nazis, Dictators, & War Criminals - When Does Watch Collecting Cross The Line?
A Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re...
Read MoreA Watch Belonging To Adolf Hitler… Purchased By A Jewish Collector? At Watches of Espionage, we often explore the darkest corners of horology. Whether we’re talking about the watches of terrorists, mercenaries, war criminals, or dictators, nothing is off the table. We use watches as a medium to get to the human element; they are our prism to view the world. That said, when I heard Adolf Hitler's gold reversible watch was auctioned for $1.1 million, I paused, thinking I may have found a watch too controversial for even W.O.E. to cover. As I attempted to wrap my head around the sale of Hitler’s watch, the buyer’s motivations, and the lack of traditional watch media coverage, I found myself wading into a more complicated conversation. Watches serve as mementos, objects that transcend their utilitarian value by representing history’s best and worst moments. But for collectors of historically charged timepieces, where is the line? Should anyone be comfortable buying, owning, or wearing watches associated with some of the most evil people to walk the Earth? Let’s explore. Watches, Warfare, & Swiss-Neutrality Watches are inextricably linked with warfare and many premier luxury brands owe their designs, legitimacy, and very existence to providing tools to warfighters. Iconic brands like IWC and Panerai often tout their military provenance as tools of choice for pilots and combat swimmers. But what the marketing departments (understandably) downplay is that some of those pilots wearing IWC watches were German Luftwaffe (Nazis) and Panerai’s Italian frogmen were Decima Flottiglia MAS, early amphibious commandos responsible for sinking Allied ships in WWII. The truth is complicated. Some of the most prominent Swiss brands have willingly provided custom watches to murderous dictators, including North Korean Kim Il-Sung’s Omega Constellation, Syrian President Hafez Al-Assad’s Rolex Submariner 5513, and a series of Patek Philippe models made for Libyan strongman Muammar Gaddafi. Even by conservative estimates, these men are responsible for hundreds of thousands of innocent deaths, yet their watches continue to fetch significant sums. Auction houses and dealers have a clear ideological allegiance: money. But what about the collectors buying these watches? Nazi Watches? WTF? With the above-listed issues in mind, some watches are too controversial for us to touch, most notably the watches of Nazis. In July of 2022, a watch reportedly belonging to Adolf Hitler auctioned for $1.1M at a Maryland auction house, Alexander Historical Auctions. The gold watch was reportedly manufactured by German watchmaker Andreas Huber with a movement from LeCoultre, now Jaeger-LeCoultre, and bears Hitler's initials (AH), a swastika, and the date of his appointment as Chancellor of Germany: January 30, 1933. The watch was allegedly liberated from Hitler's residence by French soldier Sergeant Robert Mignot as a “spoil of war.” The buyer? Reportedly an anonymous Jewish bidder in Europe, a detail that would not be significant if not for the fact that the man who wore this watch was responsible for the genocide of millions of Jews during World War II. When I heard this news I cringed, why would someone want to own a watch belonging to (arguably) the most evil person to ever live? I am by no means superstitious, but I wouldn't want that thing in my house, let alone on my wrist. But the news of the auction led me down a rabbit hole of introspection on the ethical dilemmas of watch collecting. When does something controversial cross over into taboo? At what point does the preservation of history turn into the promotion of hate? It's complicated and highly subjective. Controversial Timepieces I own and wear several “controversial” timepieces including a Blackwater Breitling Emergency, a Rhodesian military-issued Roamer, and a South African Navy-issued Tudor MilSub. The Tudor Submariner and Roamer are byproducts of apartheid-era conflicts, a controversial topic by any measurement. Blackwater is one of the most controversial private military contractors and also conjures up strong emotions for many. These pieces are more than the sum of their parts, they are wearable artifacts of specific periods in time and for me indicative of historical significance rather than ideological affiliation. I believe one can own them and not condone the behavior of the original end-user (for the record I am against apartheid in South Africa). Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 To complicate matters more, I recently considered purchasing a Rolex Submariner 5513 made for the late former President of Syria Hafez Al-Assad. President Al-Assad was responsible for numerous atrocities, including the 1982 Hama massacre when the Baathist government besieged the town of Hama for 27 days, resulting in an estimated 10,000 to 40,000 civilian deaths. Hafez Al-Assad Syrian Dial Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: HairSpring) Why would I want to own this piece? Is it really that different from Hitler's watch? Having spent much of my life living and working in the Arab world, including Syria, something about the red Arabic signature on the dial speaks to me. Of course, this desire is by no means an endorsement of the Assad regime. On the contrary, much of my time at CIA was spent working against individuals like Assad. For me, it comes down to collecting context. By default, I think we should take a nuanced understanding of history, and exploring a topic, or a watch, does not equate to endorsement of the subject. Provenance & Watches Of Notable Historical Figures Marlon Brando's GMT-Master on set for Apocalypse Now, 1979. “Provenance” is a term used by collectors and auction houses to document the history of a watch’s ownership, modifications, and service history. Whether Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona or Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT, watches with notable provenance fetch premiums as they transcend from “just a watch” to a historical artifact. Military watches are no different and those with documented provenance to a specific individual or unit can increase the value by a multiple of two or three. When it comes to celebrities and other benign “famous people,” the inherent value is widely recognized. But when you get into the gray area of watch collecting, the “value” of provenance can vary based on one's ties to what that item represents. My prized possession (grail watch) is a South African-issued Tudor MilSub reference 7016 from approximately 1974. While I have no ties to the Apartheid-era South African Navy, I have spent much of my life living and working in Africa and have a particular interest in Tudor MilSubs. The provenance of this watch has a greater value for me than the average collector. Similarly, Israeli Defense Force (IDF) issued Tudor 7928s likely have a greater value to one with ties to Israel whereas those opposed to Israel may view these watches with disgust. So What Type Of Person Would Buy Hitler’s Watch? My initial thought was a neo-Nazi sympathizer, a Bond villain character who wants to wear the watch in his underground lair as he pets his hairless cat. And while this may be the case, the truth, and motivations are likely more complicated. According to at least one report from the Washington Post, the auction house president claims the watch was purchased by an “anonymous European Jewish bidder.” Is it possible that an individual spent over a million dollars on this item to remember the defeat of the Nazis? As uncomfortable as this may sound, the answer may be yes. On the shelf in my office is a WWII-era-German (read Nazi) Eagle Claw Scabbard and Mauser-Werke Luftwaffe pistol, both war trophies brought home from the European theater by my grandfather. These items are by no means intended to honor the Nazis and to be clear as an individual and a platform we are anti-Nazi. On the contrary, these items commemorate what my grandfather and the Greatest Generation accomplished, defeating Nazi expansion in World War II. Would I purchase them at auction? No, but they do hold personal value. Watch Collecting On A Spectrum Our willingness to preserve history through the collection of timepieces occurs on a spectrum. Most are willing to buy and wear a new military-inspired watch. Even pacifists can appreciate them for their connection to the past. WWII Allied watches like the Dirty Dozen are also generally uncontroversial given the belief that the Allies were on the right side of history. But once you pass this, the value of the provenance is subjective. Auction Houses Google the name of any major auction house and you are sure to find at least one significant controversy including “fake” watches, stolen artifacts, or items of religious or cultural importance. The trade is morally complicated, and auction houses are incentivized to maximize monetary gain. The fact that Hitler's watch was sold at a relatively obscure auction house suggests that the larger auction houses passed on these items, finding them too controversial. This raises another rhetorical ethical question, is it ok for auction houses to profit off of these sales? Conclusion Would I want to own Hitler's watch? Absolutely not. Despite what is written above, I still believe this watch is a physical representation of pure evil. It belongs buried in a tomb or maybe in a museum honoring the holocaust victims. That said, collecting controversial watches should not be immediately shunned and we should have an open conversation on the ethical considerations at each level. Engaging in thoughtful discussions about the implications of collecting these items and considering their historical impact is essential for navigating this complex issue. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Read MoreAsk Watches Of Espionage Anything, Part IV
Civilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get...
Read MoreCivilians Wearing Military Watches, W.O.E.’s Grail, A Perfect EDC Bag, & More In this edition of the Dispatch, we’ll answer some common questions we get about W.O.E., timepieces, and the Intelligence Community at large. Many of these responses can—and probably will at some point—serve as stand-alone stories, but for now, here’s some additional insight on Watches of Espionage. If you have any other questions, please ask in the comments section and we’ll do our best to answer them in a future article. See past questions “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part I”, “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part II”, and “Ask W.O.E. Anything Part III”. Is it OK for civilians to wear military watches or does this qualify as “stolen valor”? (Photo Credit: Panerai) Many watch brands and references are centered around a specific narrative and culture of professionals: the Omega Speedmaster and space exploration, the Rolex Submariner and diving, and IWC’s aviation watches. With this marketing, there comes some form of cosplaying or larping and in general, this is fine and part of the fun of the passion. I will likely never travel to space, but I like the idea of wearing a watch that has and has been designed for that purpose. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Additionally, we have covered many military-inspired brands like Bremont, Marathon, and Sangin, which are intended for use by active duty and former military members. While they maintain a strong customer base in these communities, of course not all of the customers are tier-one operators. Overall, there is no problem with this and it is by no means stolen valor. “Military-inspired” is synonymous with tough gear that is meant to be used. However, I do struggle with commercially available watches with a branch or unit insignia on the dial. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Top Gun, Marathon’s USMC GSAR, and of course Panerai’s “Navy SEAL” watches. While I still don’t think this is stolen valor as such and don’t have a problem with people wearing them, I personally would not want to wear a watch with an insignia on the dial that I have no direct connection to, i.e. a unit I did not serve in. (Photo Credit: Marathon Watch) With “unit watches,” it gets more complicated and, in my opinion, depends on the specific unit watch and how much time has elapsed since it was worn by those who earned it. In general, I think watches with a specific unit insignia on the dial or caseback should be worn by those who earned them, not those who can afford to pay the absurd premium they command at auction. Customized Tudors, Omega, Rolex, and even Breitlings have sold for well over $40,000, a remarkable number. That said, at a certain point these watches do become collectibles and it is fine to collect them. Where that line is, is highly subjective. What was your go-to EDC bag when you were at CIA? W.O.E. in the Middle East, Sandstorm EDC bag. As a Case Officer operating overseas, your job is to recruit spies and steal secrets. This calling requires frequent travel and operational activity in a range of environments, from diplomatic functions in European capitals to dark alleys in war-torn countries. A good EDC bag should support your persona (cover) and not immediately peg you as an American. This obviously rules out the tacti-cool bag with Velcro for your Punisher morale patch. While I was at CIA, I relied on “issued backpacks” that were purchased overseas and modified by CIA as well as man purses I acquired myself, most notably the Canvas Andrew Work Bag from Sandstorm, Kenya, a bag I still use regularly today. Sandstorm Kenya The fictitious representation of “Q” in James Bond is largely a figment of Hollywood imagination, but gear and spy gadgets have been an integral part of espionage since the early days of the Office of Strategic Services. Prior to an overseas assignment, CIA Case Officers visit an obscure warehouse outside of Washington D.C. and are issued a range of gear from disguises and backpacks. For most assignments, the gear is not as exciting as it sounds, but there are some deep disguises available, as made famous by former Chief of Disguise for CIA, Jonna Mendez. Case Officer’s EDC The key for EDC bags at CIA is to use something that won’t make you stick out as an American, i.e. the ubiquitous North Face and Patagonia backpack. I spent much of my overseas time living and working in Africa and fell in love with a boutique manufacturer called Sandstorm, which makes canvas and leather bags out of repurposed safari tent material. The bags are durable and classy, at home in the back of a dusty Land Cruiser just as much as a first-class lounge in Amsterdam. They aren’t cheap, but nothing good is. If you are really trying to blend in, or at least not stick out, my advice is to buy clothing and bags locally, or at least outside of the United States or your home country. Save the tacti-cool bags for range day and family trips to Chucky Cheese. Many microbrands you cover use watches or parts made in China, is this ok? I’m a red-blooded American and in an ideal world, all tools would be made in America, watches made in Switzerland, and Whiskey distilled in Tennessee. That said, with the decline in American/British manufacturing and watchmaking, the reality is there are some great watches (and tools) that are designed in the US/UK, but manufactured in China and East Asia. In my opinion, many of these watches offer great value for the customer and I own some of them. Elliot Brown Holton on Glomar Explorer strap (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Obviously, there is a stigma with “Made in China” and in some ways, this is warranted but the fact is that the country, and the region in general, has specialized in high-quality manufacturing at a cost-effective price. The computer I am writing this on, and the device you are reading this on, are made in China. There has been an effort to “reshore” manufacturing and watchmaking back to the United States, but much of these efforts have come up lacking, with customer complaints about price and quality control. The key here is transparency. Designed/assembled/sewn in the USA can mean very different things and many manufacturers work to obscure the origin of products with clever language. I’m not saying that brands should lead with “Made in China,” or stamp the case back, but they should be at least open about it. (Photo Credit: Atelier DE GRIFF) There is a lot of smoke and mirrors in the watch and EDC industry and even “Swiss-made” means that the watch is assembled and tested in Switzerland but not that all the parts originate there. Legally, “Swiss Made” means “60% of production costs are generated in Switzerland, and at least 50% by value of all components is Swiss-made”, which gives a lot of wiggle room. While I won’t dime them out here, there are plenty of “Swiss watches” with significant inputs from China. When you’re traveling abroad as a civilian with an Agency background, what is your EDC? Case Officer’s EDC, just the essentials. First of all, I think people put way too much thought into “Every Day Carry” and not enough into mindset, training, and physical fitness. I am a minimalist and generally carry the same thing I did at the Agency, no crazy whizzbang tactical tools, just the essentials: pen and paper, folding knife, over $300 in cash, passport, tourniquets, and a Surefire Defender flashlight. An external battery is a necessity also. Check out a past Dispatch on “CIA Case Officer’s Everyday Carry - EDC” for more on my reasoning and experience with these tools. My personal EDC hasn't changed much in two decades and it likely won't change anytime soon. Assuming I can’t afford the real thing, how do you feel about homage watches as opposed to “fake” or “replica” watches? We wrote an article about the counterfeit watch industry (Read HERE) and several people asked what my thoughts are on “homage” watches like a Seiko modified to look like a Rolex Submariner or GMT. I don’t necessarily have a problem with these, but I would never buy one personally. It's hard for me to determine where the line between homage and fake is and I wouldn’t someone to spot me from across the room thinking I am wearing a Rolex, then come to find out it's a homage. That said, there are some “homage brands” like Tornek-Rayville, Benrus, and Vertex, that essentially brought these brands back to life, and that is something I can get behind (I own a Tornek and love it). (Photo Credit: Modbrand) Congrats on your first video and the launch of the W.O.E. YouTube channel. How did you come up with this unique format? Our core competency at W.O.E. is storytelling, offering readers/viewers insight into our community through the prism of watches. The goal is to inform and entertain and while long-form articles (ie the W.O.E. Dispatch) are our preferred medium, the sad fact is that most people don’t read more than a couple paragraphs, preferring to take in bite-sized chunks of engaging video and photographic content. We knew video was inevitable and have been working on this for over a year. The school solution in launching a YouTube channel is to have an influencer sit in front of a ring light and offer spicy clickbait takes and “Top 10 lists” of the best watches. At W.O.E. we always aim to do something different so we decided to take the concept of our Dispatch articles and convert them into mini-episodes. This concept will evolve as we gain more resources. We have been overwhelmed with the response and plan to continue to release an episode every 2 weeks through the end of the year. Check out our first four videos HERE. What’s the best spy movie from a former Case Officer’s point of view? I like thrillers/spy movies as much as the next guy. Jason Bourne, James Bond, and Red Sparrow are all fun and entertaining experiences, but they are far from the reality of true espionage work which is months of hard work and lots of writing, punctuated by exciting moments and “cool” operations. The fact is most intelligence work is boring and if the movies were accurate . . . they wouldn’t be that interesting. Spy Game is one of my favorite movies and is entertaining, but also has threads of truth, particularly the training and mentorship of Tom Bishop, played by Brad Pitt. It’s still Hollywood, but a great watch, nonetheless. Argo and Charlie Wilson's War are interesting looks at historic CIA operations, however, I would recommend starting with the books. Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Good Shepherd capture the methodical aspect of the wilderness of mirrors of the spy world, but also aren’t as exciting as the Bourne series. The Recruit is an interesting look at the training pipeline at “The Farm” and one that many from my generation watched multiple times prior to training. (Photo Credit: Black Hawk Down) Movies like Zero Dark Thirty and Black Hawk Down are less historically accurate, but interesting watches nonetheless. Regardless, if you want to learn about these events and what really happened, I would recommend reading the books first. Our W.O.E. Reading List (read HERE) is a great place to start. Last but certainly not least, Spies Like Us is a comedy with zero historical accuracy but does have a real cult following in CIA. “Doctor” can be heard in just about every CIA Station around the globe. Don’t sleep on it. If I’m down to two or three watches that all meet my criteria and price range, how do I decide? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) One of the most common questions I get is people looking for help trying to decide between two or three watches they want to buy. Sometimes they are very different—like a Tudor FXD and a Breitling Aerospace—and sometimes they are similar references from the same brand. The answer is always the same, go with your gut. Continue to watch videos and read about the watches, but most importantly try them on at the store or borrow one from your watch friends. This is such a personal decision and nothing I say should impact your choice. Ultimately, go with your gut, and your budget. Is there any watch that’s a grail for you, something you’d trade your entire collection for? W.O.E.’s South African-issued Tudor Submariner reference 7016. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Yes, no. A “grail watch” is the ultimate watch for a collector, something that they would never sell if they were able to acquire it. Like the “holy grail”, this watch is often unattainable, or incredibly unlikely to obtain. It’s more of a fantasy than a realistic goal. Pictured above is my South African-issued Tudor Submariner ref 7016 from approximately 1974, which is (was?) my grail watch. I acquired this piece from Ross Povey last year and it is my “prized possession,” I will never sell it. A Rolex Milsub is another grail for me, but I wouldn’t trade my entire collection for one. (Photo Credit: Bonhams) Moving forward, there are plenty of watches I would love to acquire including a Rolex MilSub and an Israeli-issued Shayetet 13 Tudor Sub 7928. That said, there is nothing I would trade my entire collection for. Many of my watches have personal value that transcends monetary value. The Breitling Aerospace I received from King Abdullah of Jordan (Read HERE) is probably worth a few thousand on the market, but to me, it is priceless. I have too many memories with that piece to let it go. How do I buy a watch for my wife? (Photo Credit: Tudor Watch) This is a tricky one. I have purchased Mrs. W.O.E. several watches including a Cartier Tank, Black Bay 58, and a Patek Philippe Gold Ellipse. Despite my best efforts to woo her into the world of watch nerds, she couldn't care less. The fact is that women have more competition for their attention (and money) than men. While this is a generalization I am probably going to catch some smoke for, women are bombarded by messaging for and tend to covet handbags, shoes, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces whereas men traditionally have fewer personal items to consider. The watch industry has been desperate to acquire women customers and has made some headway, but it's still heavily tilted toward men. My advice is simple, bring your significant other to a watch store to try on a range of watches. If something speaks to them, then follow that thread. If not, don’t push it. What is your favorite strap and why? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) When it comes to W.O.E. products, I am our first customer and if it's not something I would use, then it doesn’t get made. That said, each of our product lines is very discrete and developed for different use cases. Just because you like one of our straps doesn’t mean you will like them all. The Glomar Explorer probably gets the most wrist time, particularly in warmer months. It’s such a versatile strap and works particularly well with both the Blue and Black FXDs, but also virtually any tool watch. With the new tightened strap keeper, there is no chance it is coming off your wrist. Sizing can greatly vary on these straps, depending on the watch and your wrist size. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Second, I am a big fan of leather on field watches and divers and wear the Jedburgh, particularly on my older vintage pieces and watches like the Arabic Seiko. From the start, it is a very comfortable strap with a low profile. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Lastly, I love all of our Five Eyes straps and wear them regularly. But when it comes to single-pass straps, I often defer to our past collaborations with Zulu Alpha and recently have been wearing the W.O.E. - Zulu Alpha 4.0 a lot. They are expensive, there is no way to sugarcoat that, but the quality of the hardware and fabric are night and day in my opinion. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) The main point here is to find a strap that works for you. There are so many variables in watches, wrist size, and preferences, that there is no one size fits all. I encourage you to read the (over 1,000) reviews on each product page and see what other people's experiences have been. Remember, it’s much easier to buy and try a lot of different straps than it is with watches… What current Rolex model family would you buy assuming no wait list and cost isn’t an issue? I am a big fan of Rolex, particularly vintage and neo-vintage Submariners and GMTs. I am a simple man and give me any Sub or GMT with an aluminum bezel and drilled lug holes and I will be happy. I have “expressed interest” in the new Black/Gray Rolex GMT Master II, and would love to get one, but I am not losing sleep over it. That said, the one piece I would kill for (not actually) is the Titanium Yachtmaster. However, these pieces are almost impossible to get and I am not willing to pay the excessive premium on the secondary market or play silly games with ADs to get one. I am ok with that. Watch buying advice? (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) Still, the most common question we get is on watch buying advice from newbies and experts alike. While the W.O.E. platform is geared towards telling stories from our community, we have considerable resources to answer these questions. Please check out the following articles if you are new to the world of watches. Advice for Buying a Watch Best Watches Under $5,000 - Ask the Experts Best Watches Under $1,000 - Ask the Experts Best Military Watches If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. – This Dispatch has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreThe Other Watches of James Bond
Despite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links...
Read MoreDespite being a fictional character, perhaps no figure in the world of Watches of Espionage claims as much influence as James Bond. The celebrated links between 007, Rolex, and Omega are well-established and contribute to the lore surrounding two of history’s most important tool watches, namely the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster. But wherever you fall on the Rolex vs. Omega debate for 007, the charismatic secret agent’s watch history is much more diverse, including several brands and watches you may have never imagined. We’ve theorized our picks for a more realistic James Bond in the past (read HERE), but what brands and watches have been worn by Bond onscreen that didn’t come from the hallowed halls of Omega or the Crown? To explore the lesser-known watches of James Bond, we invited Caleb Daniels, a longtime friend of the site and subject matter expert on all things James Bond, for an in-depth look at Bond’s other watches. For those interested in Bond’s considerable history with firearms, Caleb has a new book coming out with our friends at Headstamp Publishing called LICENSED TROUBLESHOOTER: The Guns of James Bond. Beyond Omega & Rolex, The Watches Worn by 007 Over The Years By Caleb Daniels In two previous Dispatches, the discussion around the watches of James Bond has focused on the two most prevalent brands of the franchise, Rolex and Omega. There are, however, many other timepieces that have been included in the cinematic world of James Bond, and this Dispatch will highlight these watches from varying manufacturers and their stories. Some, you may know. Others appear only in brief sequences and are often missed but deserve equal celebration. Gruen Precision 510 (Or Maybe Not) - Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, Diamonds are Forever (Watch Photo Credit: Second Hand Horology) In 1962’s Dr. No, when James Bond utters the famous line introducing himself for the first time, in a dim casino, while lighting a cigarette nonchalantly, it’s not a Rolex on his wrist. Rather, it is a common watch for the era, an understated and relatively small gold dress watch. Legend has it that this was a personal watch of Connery’s. Further, this watch would appear time and again throughout his tenure as 007, including in From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, You Only Live Twice, and Diamonds Are Forever. If speculation is to be believed (and it ought not to be) the watch in question is a Gruen Precision 510, a diminutive 34mm, 17-jewel watch with a sub-seconds register. Or at least that’s the story on most style blogs and mainstream outlets, including Esquire and GQ. Unfortunately, this model selection is entirely speculative, as at no time on screen is the watch visible enough to confirm any definitive identifiable details. In 2013, Dell Deaton “confirmed” the model as accurate on James Bond Watches Blog, leading to absurdly overpriced listings of a relatively simple timepiece. A Gruen Precision 510 similar to the one Bond could have worn in several films. Ironically, Connery’s watch could be an Omega based on the case construction and lug shape. If that’s the case, Omega by sheer happenstance was the first ever on-screen Bond watch, a monumentally big deal if true. Despite the uncertainty around the piece, I appreciate the lower-priced Gruen examples—as little as $30—as a quiet Bond nod and adore the finished details. The questionable origin story notwithstanding, the brand has been deeply ingrained in the Bond community, and I enjoy seeing it on the wrist. Tragically, we have yet to identify this watch, but if the Connery estate ever confirms the model, expect to see yet another classic and inexpensive timepiece explode in value. Breitling Top Time - Thunderball “Here we have a Geiger counter, useful and unobstructive, the sweep hand takes the radioactive count, it's waterproof of course” - Q to Bond in Thunderball. (Watch Photo Credit: Christie’s Auction House) Sketchy dudes wear Breitling. W.O.E. doesn’t make the rules but just keeps getting this one completely right. In one of my all-time favorite films, Thunderball, 007 dons a Breitling Top Time encapsulated in an oversized cushion case as he hunts for missing nuclear weapons stolen by SPECTRE. His Breitling, in a wild turn of events, is equally as sketchy as the man who wears it, as its Q Branch modifications include the addition of a Geiger counter to aid Bond in his mission. The oversized case was designed by the Valley Tool Company, as commissioned by EON’s art department. Only one watch was ever manufactured, making this an incredibly rare piece. The actual watch is infamous for going missing for decades, only to be found at a flea market, purchased for roughly $33, and in 2013 it fetched $103,875 at Christie’s. The Top Time dial lends itself to the Q Branch aesthetic, with the two silver sub-registers that could just as easily actually be a Geiger counter. Bond wears this watch most notably with his blue striped camp shirt and cream linen trousers while visiting Emilio Largo’s oceanside home, Palmyra. It’s in this sequence that Connery casually shoots a 12-gauge Browning A5 from the hip while trap-shooting over the water, and without looking, dusts the clay pigeon. This scene is made even cooler by the very real recoil of the shotgun—it’s likely that Connery actually fired a live 12 gauge round over the ocean from the hip. Sketchy watch, Sketchy dude, epic film. Bond - “Seems terribly difficult…” [shoots without looking] “Why no, it isn’t, is it?” Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 - Live and Let Die With Roger Moore, a new Bond was brought onto the scene, and unlike with Lazenby, a conscious effort was made by EON Productions to market Moore as his own version of the character. Live and Let Die’s marketing portrays Bond with several Smith & Wesson revolvers, most notably the chrome-plated .44 Magnum Model 29. Moore’s Bond also doesn’t smoke cigarettes anymore, he prefers cigars, and bourbon to his martinis. While Moore does wear a Rolex throughout his films, his Bond also wore a variety of digital timepieces, hallmarks of the quartz revolution and a new age of timekeeping. Live and Let Die opens with Bond being issued a new Rolex, with a buzz-saw bezel and a magnetic personality, but in putting it on, he first removes his Hamilton Pulsar P2, highlighting the timeliness of the Bond films. Pulsar released the P2 in 1973, the same year as the film, and it was the first successfully marketed and manufactured digital watch. The Pulsar’s portrayal in the film is brief but serves as a clear example of EON’s concern for putting daylight between Connery and Lazenby, the Bonds of old, and Moore, a 007 for a new generation. Bond’s digital Pulsar had glowing red digital indices that appeared only when the user tapped a button on the side of the case. Hamilton recently brought this model back, with the most notable difference being their name on the case instead of Pulsar. The Seikos of Roger Moore Moore’s affinity for new, cutting-edge watches did not end in Live and Let Die. Throughout the 12 years and (00)7 Bond movies, there are (00)7 nonstandard watches worn, including the aforementioned Pulsar and six Seikos. The Seiko watches selected work well inside the Moore era, which leaned on the campier tones more often than not. Like so many Bond watches, the Seikos get gratuitous screen time as gadgets on many occasions, beginning with the Seiko 0764 LC of The Spy Who Loved Me. Seiko 0764 LC - The Spy Who Loved Me In the opening sequence of The Spy Who Loved Me, James Bond is rather cozy in front of a fire, only to be interrupted by his timepiece that prints out the message “007 TO REPORT.” Bond quickly dons his canary yellow ski suit, departs the cabin, battles KGB agents on the slopes, and opens the title song sequence by skiing off a cliff face and opening a rather overt Union Jack parachute. Unlike his Pulsar, Bond wears this watch throughout the entire film. Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar - Moonraker Promotional shot for Moonraker focusing on the Seiko. It is an interesting selection that feels a bit visually incongruent with the classic country aesthetics of Moore’s sartorial selection in Moonraker. The full-face digital display is in harsh contrast to his brown donegal tweed suit and the chateau atmosphere of the Drax estate. For all the deliberation we have had in previous Dispatches on product placement, the forceful inclusion of this watch in the place of the previously worn Rolex 5513 is an error I cannot defend. Once again, this watch is a gadget used by Bond. In this case, it conceals an explosive that Bond and Ms. Goodnight use to escape the Moonraker launch platform. Billboards for this watch are visible in the film as well, highlighting the clear partnership between EON and Seiko. Seiko H357 Dual Display - For Your Eyes Only Screen capture from For Your Eyes Only. The Dual Display seen in For Your Eyes Only is an interesting design, with a digital screen above a more traditional analog dial. The watch is rarely seen on-screen but does get a shining moment at the end of the film. Bond receives a message on his watch in red letters, scrolling across the screen reading “COME IN 007.” The film ends with Bond dropping the watch next to a parrot, who speaks to Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (an impersonator) in Bond’s place, using the watch as a communication device. Is there anything more Moore than that? Seiko 7549-7009 Professional Quartz Diver (Golden Tuna) - For Your Eyes Only (Watch Photo Credit: Analog:Shift) The aforementioned Dual Display is one of two Seikos worn by Bond in For Your Eyes Only. Bond also wears his Golden Tuna while searching the St. George wreck for the missing ATAC (Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator) device. The Golden Tuna is worn against the canary yellow dive suit, outside the sleeve, and on full display. The black titanium nitride-coated case and black rubber strap are in stark contrast to his brightly colored suit, but the gold bezel and accents are complementary to his louder dive getup. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Tuna is rather famous outside of Bond as it was the first dive watch ever produced with a quartz movement. The Tuna is also notable for its titanium case and is still highly regarded. Seiko TV Watch DXA-001 - Octopussy In the 1983 film Octopussy, Bond introduces us to the TV Watch during the standard issue Q Branch scene. 007 walks up to the watch and mounted camera combination and asks Q about it while messing with the camera, notably zooming in on the chest of a nearby MI6 employee, checking his work on the watch’s display, quipping, “Perfect image, Q.” Aside from that tongue-in-cheek, signature Moore moment, the TV Watch is used in the climax of the film. As Bond and Q descend on Kamal Khan’s palace, they use cameras mounted below their hot air balloon to view the ongoing battle and to locate Octopussy. Bond watches the video feed on his timepiece. (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The Seiko TV Watch features a 1.2” LCD in a standard Seiko case. All UHF and VHF channels can be viewed with the aid of an external receiver which affixes to the top of the watch case. The watch function is found in the thin banner above the TV screen, similar in style to the previously shown Dual Display. Seiko G757 Sports 100 - Octopussy (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) This watch’s unique display design makes for a perfect Q Branch gadget. In an earlier Q Branch scene, it is implied that this model is the standard issue 00 operative watch, as Q notes that, “the homing device is compatible with the standard issue radio finder in your watch.” Bond uses this tracking device and the mini-map on his watch face to locate the Fabergé egg. Bond Lifestyle notes that this watch is the most visible Seiko in any of the films, and gets a healthy amount of close-ups throughout the film. A View to a Kill - A Trio Of Quiet Seikos Moore’s last outing as James Bond features three Seiko models, each with relatively brief moments, and as such they’ll be all addressed together here, for the sake of completionism. Seiko 7A28 7020 Quartz Chronograph Bond wears this white-dialed chronograph after evading capture in a ski chase and climbing aboard his iceberg-shaped submarine. The watch gets its moment in the sun as Bond flirts with yet another coworker. Seiko 6923-8080 Quartz SPD094 (Photo Credit: @movementsofaction) The gold dial dress quartz is only shown briefly but is worn by Bond during his time at Zorin’s home. The colorway and design are clearly Seiko’s budget take on the iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. Stills show that at one point Moore accidentally wore (or perhaps wore due to prop unavailability) his personal Datejust in place of the Seiko. Seiko “Arnie” H558-5000 Another Seiko dive watch is worn twice on screen by 007, first during the ski escape sequence (which causes a continuity error for the submarine scene) and later during the Eiffel Tower chase with May Day. In addition, the so-called Seiko “Arnie” also features on the wrist of a nefarious KGB agent in the film, providing a better screen capture than we were able to get for Bond himself. Product Placement & Seiko Beginning in The Spy Who Loved Me, the credits of Bond films note “Seiko Watches” as a partner. Unfortunately little is known about the behind-the-scenes reasons for this partnership, but the commercial nature of it is very clear, as shown by the advertisements of the period. Bond advertising and watches have a history spanning back to the Connery era and Rolex, and of course throughout recent years and the Omega partnership. TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver Ref. 980.031- The Living Daylights The last non-Omega or Rolex worn on screen by 007 was the seldom-seen TAG Heuer 1000 Professional Night Diver sported by Timothy Dalton in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and its appearance was once again tragically brief. The pre-titles show the 00 division parachuting into Gibraltar for a training exercise. Kitted out in 1980s SAS-style black tactical attire from head to toe, Bond also wears the black PVD cased watch on the matching bracelet. The only pop of color is the dial, which is fully lumed, leading to a soft yellow-green coloration. TAG Heuer released an updated variant of the Night Diver in 2021, with several prominent design modifications, making the new watch hardly reminiscent of the original. Bond’s watches, like his sidearms, are an iconic part of the character. Despite the miscellaneous Q Branch gadgets that crop up in many films, Bond often depends primarily on his wits, watch, and PPK to save the world. To that end, the timepieces of 007 will always be a cornerstone of the character, and if and when Bond 26 ever appears, I look forward to seeing what is on the wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Bond: A Case for Omega
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube Episode: The Watches Of US Presidents & 2024 Candidates
What Watches Teach Us About Political Messaging, Propaganda, & Manipulation In one month, the American public will elect the next President of the United States....
Read MoreWhat Watches Teach Us About Political Messaging, Propaganda, & Manipulation In one month, the American public will elect the next President of the United States. In honor of another historic presidential race, our new episode on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel discusses the small but significant role played by the watches worn by US Presidents and the current candidates for Commander-in-Chief. Whether it’s Donald Trump’s collection of solid gold luxury watches, a Cartier on the wrist of Vice President Kamala Harris, or a humble Timex on the wrists of George W. Bush or Bill Clinton, watches are a subtle tool to communicate with constituents and influence potential voters. To be clear, W.O.E. is an apolitical platform. Our analysis of political figures and their watches is presented as an informational exercise not intended to align with one side or the other. If seeing a particular president or their watch upsets you, we recommend you take some deep breaths and consider spending more time outside. Don’t let the internet ruin your day. No matter where you fall politically, it’s important to keep in mind that every aspect of a president or candidate’s appearance—including the watch on their wrist—is carefully curated and intended to send a message. Remember, a watch is never just a watch. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreW.O.E. On YouTube: How G-Shock Became The Watch Of The Military
Affordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the...
Read MoreAffordable Yet Capable Digital Watches Favored By SEALs, Special Forces, & Intelligence Officers It’s hard to believe we’re already on our third video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel. There’s been a steep learning curve in adapting to the new platform, but the response has been surprising and humbling. THANK YOU for your support and stay tuned. We have a lot of great stuff in the pipeline. While W.O.E. often focuses on analog mechanical tool watches, the reality today is that the majority of special operators utilize affordable digital watches including the G-Shock, which has also been widely issued across the US Military in particular. Our third video provides an in-depth look at G-Shock, affordable digital watches from Japan that have earned a place on the wrists of elite military operators and intelligence officers since the 1980s. Whether you’re a seasoned luxury watch snob or a G-Shock fanboy, you can’t argue with the utility and unmatched durability offered by even the most inexpensive G-Shock models. -W.O.E.
Read MoreAnnouncement: The Watches Of Espionage Coffee Table Book
Share Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage...
Read MoreShare Your Military-Issued Watches, Custom Unit Projects, & Operationally Worn Watches To Be Included In Our Upcoming Book We have big news. Watches of Espionage is in the early stages of working on a coffee table book that will offer a closer look at some of your favorite stories from the Dispatch as well as completely new content, all supported by brand-new professional photography from our regular photographic contributor and publisher, James Rupley. A US Navy UDT-issue Tudor Submariner 7928 from W.O.E.'s personal collection. (Photo Credit: James Rupley/W.O.E.) As always, everything we do is for, with, and through the community. Our book will be no different, and we are looking for individuals with interesting watches to feature in our first printed publication. If you’re in the DC/Maryland/Virginia area or willing to travel there and have an interesting watch you wore operationally in the military, special operations, or intelligence, we’d love to hear from you. Here’s what we’re looking for: Military-issued watches. Unit watches i.e. custom Tudor, Omega, Bremont, Breitling, etc… Mechanical timepieces that were worn in an operational capacity. If any of these apply to any of the watches in your collection, please let us know by completing this brief survey HERE. As always, thank you for your support. -W.O.E.
Read MoreVeterans Watchmaker Initiative & The Global Watchmaker Shortage
The World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a...
Read MoreThe World Needs Watchmakers & A Unique Organization Aims To Help Fill The Gap With Veterans Bolstered by the rise of social media and a slew of watch-related platforms, the internet has made the age-old art and science of horology cool once again. Ironically, as more people enter the hobby, the global watch industry faces a labor crisis. Becoming a skilled watchmaker is no joke, and there are simply not enough qualified watchmakers to go around. In this Dispatch, we’ll discuss the watchmaker shortage, including how we got here, what the industry is doing about it, and a unique opportunity for veterans who want to get involved. It may not feel like an obvious choice, but if you’re a disabled veteran in search of a new career, watchmaking may be one to consider. An organization called the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative provides all but completely free initial watchmaker training, credentialing, and even help with job placement. What Is A Watchmaker? (Photo Credit: VWI) Watches date back to the 16th Century, and watchmakers were artisans who hand-fabricated every component of every single watch they produced. By the early 1900s, standardization took over, with watch companies focusing on mass production using interchangeable components. A watchmaker from the Swiss Vallée de Joux. (Photo Credit: Musée de l’Elysée, Lausanne) Watchmaking changed from a largely European artisanal cottage industry to a broader technical field where budding watchmakers could learn the ways of assembling, maintaining, and repairing watches and “calibers”, which is what watch nerds and the French call the movement. Until the 1960s, watches were virtually all powered by mechanical means. That, coupled with the fact that almost everyone used to wear a watch, meant watchmaking was a small but legitimate career field supported by trade schools, apprenticeship programs, and infrastructure providing aftermarket components for servicing or repair. The Quartz Crisis To Today The release of the Seiko Astron spurred the Quartz Crisis, the effects of which directly influenced the current watchmaker shortage. (Photo Credit: Seiko) While there were numerous earlier efforts with electronic timekeeping, Seiko’s 1969 release of the Astron launched what came to be known as the “Quartz Crisis”, a major contributor to today’s watchmaker shortage. Bad news for watchmakers, quartz calibers were easier to mass produce and would quickly become far less expensive than their mechanical counterparts. Some estimates indicate the number of watchmakers employed just in Switzerland dropped by over 60% during the 1970s while the Swiss watch industry as a whole saw its employment decline from 90,000 at its peak to just 28,000 during the same period. Inexpensive digital quartz watches from Japan like the Casio Casiotron of 1974 emperiled the Swiss industry like never before. (Photo Credit: Casio USA) As the need for watchmaking declined with the rise of quartz, the once-proud trade of watchmaking became less profitable and attractive and the watchmaking needs of those who still preferred mechanical timekeeping were increasingly met by an aging population of watchmakers, a trend that continues into modern times. The numbers are staggering. A watchmaker at work at Patek Philippe's "The Art Of Watches" exhibition in 2017. (Photo Credit: CNN/Getty) According to Jordan Ficklin, the executive director of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), today there are an estimated 4,000 watchmakers in the United States, a decrease of as much as 90% compared to the 1960s. Of course, there are fewer mechanical watches out and about compared to that period, but the shortage still means backlogs for watch repairs stretch into the years in some instances. Becoming A Watchmaker In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) As internet-based watch enthusiasm has spurred a modern renaissance for mechanical watches at virtually all levels of the industry, the supply of newly minted watchmakers has failed to keep pace. Every year, hundreds of watchmakers who were trained before the Quartz Crisis retire with only a handful of qualified replacements stepping up to take up the reins. But let’s say you’re interested in watches and seriously considering taking up watchmaking as a career choice, how does one become a watchmaker in the first place? At least in the United States, there are essentially two options. A budding watchmaker can either attend a formal school—and there are only a few in the US—or complete an apprenticeship program. There are only a handful of certified watchmaking schools in the United States including Gem City College School of Horology in Quincy, Illinois (Photo Credit: AWCI) With a formal watchmaking school, students pay to attend a program lasting from two to four years. The schools also typically work with brands and other entities to employ newly minted watchmakers, which is the easy part given the shortage. With an eye towards self-preservation more than altruism, many watchmaking schools are subsidized by the brands. Apprenticeships, the old-school way of becoming a watchmaker, still exist but are rare in the United States today. In most cases, apprentices don’t get paid, making this a challenging route. (Photo Credit: VWI) In either case, if you can get yourself trained or experienced or both to a solid level, there is no shortage of jobs out there waiting for qualified watchmakers, some of which pay surprisingly well compared to a traditional college education for non-binary art history or whatever kids are studying these days. If you’re a veteran, there is another unique opportunity out there that is so good, we almost didn’t think it was real. Veterans Watchmaker Initiative Sam Cannan founded VWI in 2017. (Photo Credit: VWI) Starting in 2015, Sam Cannan, a retired Baltimore police officer turned watchmaker, set out on a unique journey, to create a school for disabled veterans to learn watchmaking. Even more challenging, Cannan aimed to make the school completely free of charge, providing a pathway for veterans to learn a skilled trade and earn gainful employment in a high-demand career field. It took a couple of years, but Cannan eventually found a building in Odessa, Delaware where he set up shop, donated by the New Castle County government for $1 a year. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking was founded after the Second World War and provided no-cost watchmaker training to disabled veterans. (Photo Credit: Bulova) Calling back to the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking founded in WWII to provide veterans of the wars in Europe and the Pacific with free watchmaker training, Bulova came on board as a founding sponsor. In return, VWI is also an authorized Bulova service center, and students finishing the school’s full 16-month watchmaker training course attend a further three-month internship repairing watches within the service center. While studying, students also have the option to live in a nearby house owned by the school, providing an opportunity for students to obtain an almost completely free education in watchmaking. (Photo Credit: VWI) The program’s graduates are in high demand and have been placed—with the program’s assistance—within the Richemont and Swatch Groups as well as brands like Patek Philippe, with a near 100% placement rate for students graduating from the full watchmaker course. Staring into a watch movement wearing a loupe may seem like a far cry from the realities of military service, but many program attendees and particularly those diagnosed with PTSD as a service-connected disability describe the trade as therapeutic, providing a level of mental health support in addition to promising career implications. If you’re a disabled veteran and interested in attending one of VWI’s courses, which also include a shorter six-week watch technician program, click HERE to learn more. Watchmaking In 2024 (Photo Credit: VWI) Thus far, a renewed interest in mechanical watches has failed to spur a new generation of watchmakers. However, with the help of programs like VWI, hope is on the horizon. As is often the case with the so-called “Skills Gap”, awareness is at the core of the issue. If watch brands both big and small hope to persevere, qualified watchmakers must exist at all levels, ready to handle assembly at the production level as well as after-sales service whether handled by an authorized dealer or an independent watch repair business. As we’ve described, brands including Bulova are stepping up to help—in its interest as much as anything—but we would argue a broader effort from the largest players is necessary to keep pace with a majority retirement-age watchmaking workforce. Especially for disabled veterans searching for a skilled career field that is also in high demand, watchmaking might be a great place to look. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is a little outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends on their favorite books on intelligence and SpecOps to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. For brevity’s sake, we elected to make this a series, with the first installment focused on books covering the Global War On Terror that raged for 20 years in the aftermath of the attacks on September 11th, 2001. We encourage you to add your favorite reads to the comments. CIA’s Team Alpha Prior to Insertion into Afghanistan in the wake of 9/11. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. The Global War On Terror (GWOT) In Books Kill Bin Laden: A Delta Force Commander's Account of the Hunt for the World's Most Wanted Man, Dalton Fury In Kill Bin Laden, retired US Army Major Thomas Greer, whose action movie-style pen name is Dalton Fury, describes his firsthand experiences as a senior Delta Force officer during the hunt for Osama Bin Laden including a riveting eyewitness account of the Battle Of Tora Bora in 2001. Of note, he also has some great fiction reads similar to Jack Carr. The Way of the Knife: The CIA, a Secret Army, and a War at the Ends of the Earth, Mark Mazzetti While we’re typically hard on reporters, Mark Mazzetti, a Pulitzer Prize winner, provides an excellent multi-faceted look at modern warfare by sharing the stories of intelligence officers, special operators, and CIA assets including at least one socialite. There is some great detail in this book that would never pass the CIA’s Publication Review Board. Licensed to Kill: Hired Guns in the War on Terror, Robert Young Pelton A closer look at the world of private military contractors (PMC), Licensed to Kill details CIA’s “Dirty Wars”, contractor training, and some of the most prominent successes and failures of private military contractors, often operating without oversight or repercussions when they cross the line. If you want to learn more about the Blackwater Breitling, this is a good place to start and about as unbiased as it gets on this controversial topic. Jawbreaker: The Attack on Bin Laden and Al-Qaeda: A Personal Account by the CIA's Key Field Commander, Gary Berntsen & Ralph Pezzullo This time coming from the Agency’s perspective, Jawbreaker is career CIA Case Officer Gary Berntsten’s first-hand experience coordinating the CIA's fight against the Taliban while searching for Usama bin Laden in the war’s early years. First In: An Insider's Account of How the CIA Spearheaded the War on Terror in Afghanistan, Gary Schroen Gary Schroen was a legendary CIA Case Officer who led the initial Northern Alliance Liaison Team—codenamed “Jawbreaker”—into Afghanistan, in late 2001. First In is his account of some of the first boots on the ground belonging to a team of CIA Officers tasked with linking up with the Northern Alliance in the Panjshir Valley. We profiled Schroen and his Rolex Submariner in a previous Dispatch, read HERE. First Casualty: The Untold Story of the CIA Mission to Avenge 9/11, Toby Harnden One of the best-researched accounts of the first phase of the war in the aftermath of 9/11, Toby Harnden’s book, First Casualty, should be required reading for anyone looking for a 10,000-foot overview of the CIA and US Army Special Forces’ efforts in Afghanistan in the Fall of 2001. Of note, Harnden also wrote a Dispatch on Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad, read HERE. The Triple Agent: The al-Qaeda Mole who Infiltrated the CIA, Joby Warrick Coming from another Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter, Joby Warrick’s The Triple Agent is the harrowing narrative of Humam Khalil al-Balawi, a Jordanian double agent who claimed the lives of seven CIA Case Officers and Paramilitary Officers at a secret outpost in Afghanistan in 2009. This was required reading for several courses at CIA and an important study of counterintelligence in counterterrorism operations. Hunting the Jackal: A Special Forces and CIA Ground Soldier's Fifty-Year Career Hunting America's Enemies, Billy Waugh & Tim Keown A legend among SpecOps and the Agency, Billy Waugh fought in Vietnam with US Army Special Forces and worked as a contractor for CIA in Khartoum, Sudan in the early 90s keeping tabs on a certain bad actor named Usama bin Laden. When the GWOT kicked off, Waugh, who was then 71, deployed to Afghanistan to continue his lifelong service to our country. Waugh is also a W.O.E. Dispatch profile alum, having worn some of history’s great tool watches throughout his adventure-filled life including a Rolex GMT-Master, Seiko 6409, and numerous Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) throughout his career. Click HERE to read more. Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001, Steve Coll Where many of the books we’ve mentioned thus far cover the events immediately following 9/11, Steve Coll’s Ghost Wars concentrates on the intelligence efforts before September 11th including CIA’s clandestine efforts to subvert Soviet action in Afghanistan in the 1980s. I read and reread this book every time I went to Afghanistan, and it is one of the most comprehensive histories of the US Government's involvement in the region. Directorate S: The C.I.A. and America's Secret Wars in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Steve Coll Another Steve Coll piece, Directorate S covers the intelligence challenges faced by CIA in Afghanistan caused by Pakistani ISI’s "Directorate S", a highly secretive wing of the country’s intelligence service charged with arming, training, and attempting to legitimize the Taliban’s role in the region. This is a great follow-on reading to Ghost Wars. Surprise, Kill, Vanish: The Secret History of CIA Paramilitary Armies, Operators, and Assassins, Annie Jacobsen Another text looking at CIA’s Paramilitary operations, Surprise, Kill, Vanish provides a high-level overview of the history of CIA's Special Activities Division (SAD / SAC) interwoven with firsthand accounts of the secretive unit’s actions during the Cold War and the GWOT. I will note, while this is a good read with lots of great information, several sections are over-Hollywoodized and not as accurate as they appear. 13 Hours: The Inside Account of What Really Happened In Benghazi, Mitchell Zuckoff with the Annex Security Team 13 Hours is a detailed account of the events of September 11th, 2012, when a six-man team of GRS security contractors working for the US Government defended a CIA annex and a State Department Special Mission Compound from armed militants in Benghazi, Libya. Also having been made into a feature film of the same name starring the dreamy John Krasinski, 13 Hours also offers some premium Rolex Submariner content on the wrist of Ty "Rone" Woods, a CIA Global Response Staff contractor played by James Badge Dale. The Looming Tower: Al-Qaeda and the Road to 9/11, Lawrence Wright Another prequel to the events of 9/11 and the GWOT to follow, The Looming Tower is a Pulitzer Prize-winning narrative describing Usama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri’s ascent to the heights of global terrorism as well as the FBI’s efforts to track and understand the emerging threat presented by al-Qaeda in the 1990s. This is the best read on helping understand the events that led to the attacks on September 11th and an easy read. Send Me: The True Story of a Mother at War, Marty Skovlund Jr. & Joe Kent Authored by our good friend Marty Skovlund Jr. and former CIA Joe Kent, the subject’s widower, Send Me is the incredible story of Senior Chief Petty Officer Shannon Kent, a trailblazing female special operator, gifted linguist, and mother of two who served with Naval Special Warfare and CIA during the Global War On Terror, ultimately losing her life in a suicide bombing in Syria in 2019. Relentless Strike: The Secret History of Joint Special Operations Command, Sean Naylor Relentless Strike is one of the best overviews of Joint Special Operations Command or JSOC, the parent organization that serves as operational control for Delta Force, the 75th Ranger Regiment, SEAL Team Six, and other secretive intelligence and aviation assets. From its humble beginnings in the 80s to its exponentially larger role in the GWOT, JSOC became one of the United States’ most impactful weapons in the fight against terrorism. There is some great CIA content also in this book that is scarily accurate. Not a Good Day to Die: The Untold Story of Operation Anaconda, Sean Naylor An in-depth account of Operation Anaconda, Not a Good Day to Die is intelligence and counterterrorism reporter Sean Naylor’s beautifully researched description of one of the United States’ bloodiest battles in the Global War On Terror. This work details the early actions of SOF, JSOC, and CIA in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan. No Easy Day: The Firsthand Account of the Mission that Killed Osama Bin Laden, Mark Owen & Kevin Maurer Where 9/11 is the event that caused the GWOT, the killing of Usama Bin Laden in 2011 is perhaps the second-most crucial event marking the culmination of an unprecedented intelligence effort by CIA and a harrowing raid by SEAL Team Six, which is described in detail in No Easy Day by Mark Owen, a veteran SEAL operator who was on the mission. While we generally roll our eyes at SEAL books, this is an incredible insight into SEAL Team Six and a first-hand account of this historic operation. See No Evil: The True Story of a Ground Soldier in the CIA's War Against Terrorism, Robert Baer Another account from a CIA Officer serving before and in the opening phases of the GWOT, See No Evil is an incendiary look at what the author sees as the Agency’s intelligence failures as well as a description of the roots of modern terrorism. Bob Baer is a controversial figure at CIA and many say his reputation is less than stellar. That said, this book inspired an entire generation of CIA officers, coming out shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan, Doug Stanton One of the GWOT’s most iconic images is that of US Army Special Forces riding horses into battle in Afghanistan shortly after September 11th. Horse Soldiers tells the story of how these American special operators blended old-school cavalry tactics with modern warfare to fight the earliest battles of the early GWOT. This book sets a good foundation for our follow-on piece by former senior CIA Case Officer J.R. Seeger writes about the role his watches played in the early days of the conflict in Afghanistan (read HERE). The Accidental Guerrilla: Fighting Small Wars in the Midst of a Big One, David Kilcullen Providing a global perspective on the Global War On Terror, David Kilcullen’s The Accidental Gorilla contextualizes the importance of smaller conflicts and intelligence operations in Indonesia, Thailand, Pakistan, the Horn of Africa, and East Timor and their role in the more prominent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. The More You Know Beyond their entertainment value, these books provide detailed history and incredible firsthand accounts of how modern warfare, special operations, and intelligence collection unfolded over 20 years of war in Iraq, Afghanistan, and around the globe. Setting politics aside, the GWOT presents myriad cases of true heroism displayed by regular soldiers, intelligence officers, and SpecOps personnel at all levels of the war. There are, of course, numerous other books detailing the events of the Global War On Terror including thousands written by Navy SEALs, but this list is a great place to start. As they say, the more you know... If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Israeli Spy Eli Cohen’s Eterna-Matic Centenaire Recovered by Mossad *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreWatches As A Propaganda Tool - Russia, Ukraine, & The United States
From the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President...
Read MoreFrom the Cold War To The War In Ukraine, Watches Are Used As A Propaganda Tool, But Are They Effective? In June 2022, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky visited the frontline troops on Ukraine's Armed Forces Day and presented soldiers with Ukrainian-produced Kleynold watches. The tradition of presenting watches to military personnel as commemorative gifts is long, but these watches served another purpose. With a government photographer on hand to capture the moment, the Ukrainian-produced Kleynold KFS-820s were tools of propaganda, a public demonstration of unity, patriotism, and Ukrainian ingenuity. This is just the latest example of watches used as tools of influence by Ukraine, the Soviet Union, and the United States. Cold War Of Covert Influence During the Cold War, the United States and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) competed on several “battlefields.” These included “hot wars” like Korea and Vietnam, “near-miss Armageddons” such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, and shadowy proxy wars around the world. One of the lesser-known battlefields involved influence operations. Both superpowers used overt, clandestine, and covert resources to influence non-aligned populations in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. In the United States, the lead agency was the US State Department and, specifically, the Policy Planning Staff (PPS). George Kennan, the State Department senior official responsible for the PPS, served in Moscow and realized that in the case of the USSR, the United States faced an implacable foe under Joseph Stalin determined to control the world either by force of arms or by political warfare. George F. Kennan pictured in Geneva, Switzerland. To counter that threat, Kennan prepared a series of papers at State addressing political warfare's challenges. Kennan understood that a successful program would have to include every possible tool in the national security tool kit. This included public diplomacy, economic and military support to neutrals as well as allies, and clandestine and covert influence programs run by the newly formed Central Intelligence Agency. The diverse set of CIA operations supporting this strategic plan included clandestine publishing and delivery of books banned in the USSR such as Boris Paternak’s Doctor Zhivago, smuggling news and music radio broadcasts into the Warsaw Pact countries and the USSR, and effective use of “agents of influence” to deliver a US-orchestrated message. Traditional Propaganda To counter this effort, the USSR used similar techniques. In the case of strategic communications, the USSR offered foreign journalists tours of “Potemkin villages” presenting the power of the communist economy. The May Day celebrations included displays of the Soviet military might, and in 1960, they created an international university in Moscow, Patrice Lumumba University, to train future non-aligned leaders. The KGB conducted “active measures” propaganda using their own agents of influence designed to portray the West and most especially the US as a poverty-stricken, depraved nation. The greatest tool in the Soviet propaganda tool kit was their space program. While US rockets were blowing up on the launch pad, the Soviets launched a small satellite, SPUTNIK, in October 1957 which broadcasted a radio signal as it orbited the Earth. In April 1961, the Soviets put the first man, Yuri Gagarin, into orbit, providing rocket fuel for the USSR’s propaganda program. The Soviet Union & Watches The Soviet Union had a basic watch industry before the start of World War II, but it was after the war that their watchmaking endeavors shifted from producing watches for the war effort to a blend of military and civilian programs. Two of the best-known of these 20th-century watch factories were VOSTOK (“East” in Russian) and the Petrodvorets Watch Factory (later renamed RAKETA, Russian for “rocket” after Yuri Gagarin’s epic flight). Both companies produced basic, easy-to-service, reliable hand-wound watches. Both RAKETA and VOSTOK watches were worn by Soviet political and military leaders as well as Soviet astronauts, pilots, and polar explorers. Soviet watch designs were also distinctive (for example the “Big Zero” Raketa). They also offered creative designs for water resistance including the legendary Vostok Amphibia that relied on increasing water pressure at depth to secure its water resistance. Raketa “Big Zero” in a chrome-plated cushion case with short, curved lugs (Photo Credit: Vintage Watch Inc) Beginning in the 1960s, both factories began to produce watches that advertised Soviet successes in military operations, space, and exploration. These watches had dial designs including Gagarin’s face, Soviet tanks, Soviet ships, submarines, and Soviet aircraft. These designs were primarily focused on building solidarity within the Soviet Union, but they were also exported around the globe allowing citizens of non-aligned countries with weak economies to own a reliable watch marked in English as “MADE IN USSR”. Vintage Raketa with Soviet astronaut Yuri Gagarin on the dial. The objective was clear: While the West produced watches for the elite, the Soviet Union made watches for the common man. While anyone familiar with the international watch industry of the 1960s knows that US, UK, and Japanese firms were producing high-quality watches at an affordable price, the marketing plans for these firms did not counter the Soviet argument. Simply put: The West ceded this particular piece of strategic communications to the Soviets. Did it matter? Probably not. The collapse of the USSR was a catastrophe for most command economy industries. However, both RAKETA and VOSTOK survived and began to export to the West. The oddest aspect of these export efforts was the importance of nostalgia for the Cold War. Soviet paraphernalia began to show up in kiosks throughout Europe and both RAKETA and VOSTOK found European partners willing to invest in their robust yet extremely inexpensive watches. The War In Ukraine Long after the collapse of the USSR and the creation of the modern state of Ukraine, the country had a nascent watch industry in Kyiv founded in 1997 and focused on simple quartz and mechanical watches. None of these watches appeared on the market in the West and they certainly didn’t hold the status of popular VOSTOK models including the Komandirskie and the Amphibia, both of which have cult followings among enthusiasts. A KLEYNOD watch from the brand’s military-oriented “Forces” collection. However, following the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukrainian territory in 2022, the Ukrainian Kyiv watch company changed its name to KLEYNOD (Ukrainian for “treasure”) and began to impress a historic Ukrainian battle insignia on their watches. Their marketing tool was simple: The KLEYNOD watches symbolized the Ukrainian resistance to the Russian invasion. In a previous W.O.E. Dispatch, we showed President Zelensky giving KLEYNOD watches to front-line troops. At present, KLEYNOD offers over a dozen different military-related watches, clearly keeping the ongoing war effort in mind. Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko, an early casualty of the War in Ukraine wearing a Ukrainian-made watch, Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition. When Ukrainian Su-27 Flanker fighter pilot Colonel Oleksandr “Grey Wolf” Oksanchenko was killed on 25 February by a Russian S-400 missile during the Battle of Kyiv, he was posthumously awarded the Order of the Gold Star. Oksanchenko was a legendary Ukrainian pilot who retired in 2018 but like many Ukrainians returned to service to defend his nation. To celebrate this national hero and create unity, the Ukrainian government and press circulated pictures of the Grey Wolf, with a Kleynod "Independence Insignia" edition watch clearly visible on his wrist. The watch was developed on the 15th anniversary of Ukraine’s Independence. Russia, Putin, & Timepieces Similarly, Russia continues to tout its watch industry as a source of national pride. President Putin, known for his extensive watch collection including an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne, Blancpain, and IWC, is now seen regularly wearing a Russian made, Imperial Peterhof Factory (Raketa) watch. Putin and affiliated Donetsk People's Republic (DPR) officials similarly have presented Russian-made watches to forces as honorary gifts. Conclusion: In the West, we often see watches as timekeeping tools or status symbols. Certainly, both points are true around the world with world leaders wearing valuable timepieces. Cases in point include the new Danish King Frederik’s Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch” or Donald Trump’s many Rolex models. However, in the case of the USSR or today’s Russia and Ukraine, watches made locally serve as small but impactful propaganda tools that remind both the wearer and the observer alike that indigenous industries make reliable tools that are robust and meant to be used. Both countries export these timepieces to sustain their industries, but also to send a small message to the world: We are industrial powers. -- This piece was jointly written by W.O.E. and J.R. Seeger who served as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne and as a CIA officer for a total of 27 years of federal service. Seeger led multiple, small unit teams during his service, including leading one of the CIA teams that infiltrated Afghanistan after 9/11. This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Double Wristing Stormin' Norman
Read MoreBest Watches Under $5,000
Asking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting...
Read MoreAsking Watch Nerds & Experts from Special Operations, Intelligence, & NatSec For Their Picks We’ve often argued the best place to start with watch collecting is under $1,000. With the rise of watch enthusiasm bolstered by the internet over the last couple of decades, there are more great options than ever to consider on the more attainable end of affairs, many of which we discussed in a previous “Ask The Experts” Under $1,000 Dispatch. We stand by our statements about starting with an affordable watch, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be a day when you’re interested in ascending to a more luxurious tier of watchmaking. Whether we like it or not, so-called “luxury” watches bring a lot to the table, more commonly offering in-house calibers, better finishing standards, and more premium materials while also tapping into the history and heritage behind some of horology’s most legendary names. As many of our Dispatch articles have illustrated, using a more expensive watch doesn’t have to impede upon the “Use Your Tools” ethos with numerous documented cases of individuals from the military and intelligence communities reaching for luxury watches in the performance of their missions and to honor their culture. For further guidance on where to look in the crowded $1,000 to $5,000 tier, we asked a handful of our friends from both the traditional watch media and NatSec communities for their choices. There are a few returning guests from our previous look at watches under $1,000 (read HERE) as well as some new blood. Despite the diversity of our experts, the one thing they all have in common is a shared love of timepieces. These watches are not inexpensive by any means, and the idea that not everyone can afford to play in this space isn’t something we take lightly. Tudor Pelagos FXD Black - $4,150 Jason Heaton (@jasonheaton) is an author, freelance writer, and co-host of the podcast, The Grey NATO. The field of “Use Your Tools” watches is a crowded one, but in my mind, the Pelagos FXD stands above the rest. Forged from the ethos of vaunted historic military divers from the houses of Rolex and Tudor, it is modernized through its use of titanium, ceramic, and, in the case of the movement’s escapement, silicon. Fixed strap bars aren’t for everybody, but their use on the FXD is delightfully uncompromising and will appeal to those who like to use their blunt instruments at the sharp end. CWC Mutineer ≈ $2,000 Chris Craighead (@christian_craighead) former British Special Air Service (SAS). Founder of The Ministry of Defence. To start, I have to apologize for the tease, but this article with W.O.E is too good an opportunity to miss mentioning my upcoming collaboration with my brand, Ministry of Defence, and CWC, a legendary British watchmaker known for supplying UKSF units since the 70s. Building upon an existing CWC case design, the Mutineer will offer a Swiss automatic movement and a few other subtle elements speaking directly to my experiences in the military. I used a number of different analog and digital watches during my service, but if I could have designed the perfect watch for my needs then, it would have looked something like this. The tentative release date is Fall 2024. Sinn U2 - $3,160 Dave Hall (@davehall1911) is a retired SEAL Senior Chief, Strategic Advisor, and President of the Silent Warrior Foundation. The Sinn U2 has been my daily wear and tool watch for over a decade and it is as at home in a pool or ocean as it is in a subterranean environment. I love the simple style and brute ruggedness of this watch. I use the dual time zone feature daily. The watch has many more useful features such as the comfortable four o’clock crown placement, an Argon-filled case, a water compromise indicator, a clasp expansion system to wear over rubber, hacking seconds, and a luminous blue bezel indicator which easily differentiates it from the greenish dial and hand colors in darkness. These features combined with the price point make it a tool watch worthy of consideration in the W.O.E. community. Sangin Hydra DLC - $1,999 Brock Stevens (@deepsea.edc) is an active-duty US Navy Diver and watch photographer. The Sangin Instruments Hydra is my first Sangin and definitely will not be my last. With a 43mm case, 49.5mm lug to lug, and a case thickness of 12.5mm, the Hydra wears great on my 7-inch wrist. The stand out here is the thinness of the case (while offering 300m of water resistance), which allows for a very comfortable, low-profile wearing experience. The Hydra is offered in both 12-hour and elapsed time bezel variants, and the case options include a DLC or beautifully brushed 316L stainless steel. As you can see, I chose the DLC diver’s version and never looked back. The Hydra immediately drew me in with its rugged, mid-century compressor design with that tool watch or tactical element that I love to see in my collection. The build quality and operation of the internal bezel are excellent for the price and stand up to larger Swiss and German brands. The dial is extremely legible and in low-light conditions, the lume is fantastic. With a name like “Hydra,” you would expect the watch to excel in an amphibious environment. However, it’s hard to know if you have a proper diver’s watch until you take it underwater. After testing the Hydra on-wrist on many dives, I am happy to report that it lives up to its name. Vertex M100A - $3,300 Darren (@zulualphastraps) is the owner Zulu Alpha Straps and a veteran of the British Royal Navy. The Vertex M100A is a must for every military watch enthusiast. Based on the Cal 59 which formed part of the original Dirty Dozen issued by the British Ministry of Defence in WW2. The M100A connects you to the story that brought us all into the fold, the origins of where watches and the military intersect. Tudor Black Bay GMT - $4,375 James Rupley (@jamesrupleyphoto) is a co-founder of small arms reference publishing companies, Vickers Guide and Headstamp Publishing, and a regular photographic contributor to W.O.E. A properly built GMT is a do-anything watch, and the OG 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT with “Pepsi” bezel is my go-to timepiece. One of my pleasures when traveling is “jumping” the hour hand to the local time zone of my destination as I settle into the seat of my flight for departure. Its versatility is evidenced by the fact that I have worn it straight to the beach after landing, to formal business dinners, and to photo shoots hauling more Pelican cases than I have hands for across cobble-stoned European streets. Its satin-finished anodized aluminum red/blue bezel hits differently than the ceramic bezel inserts in use by Rolex today—part of the reason I consider it the spiritual successor to the iconic Rolex 16710 BLRO GMT Master II. I’ve got more miles under the belt of my Tudor Black Bay GMT than another other watch in my possession, and I have yet to see any contender capable of dethroning it of that title. Christopher Ward Twelve Ti - $1,895 Rob Huberty is a former SEAL and the COO and co-founder of ZeroEyes, an AI gun detection company. My first choice would be a Tudor Pelagos FXD, but others in the W.O.E. community chose it. Tudors are more rugged tool watches, and I am a washed-up Team Guy, so the Christopher Ward Twelve takes its place. Christopher Ward is starting to replace Seiko as my recommendation for the first “good” watch for enthusiasts. The Twelve is inspired by Gerald Genta’s (the most famous watch designer) integrated bracelet watches that cost 25 times more. (AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus). The Twelve feels like it should cost much more, is COSC certified, and is watch nerd-approved. It comes with both a rubber strap and an awesome titanium bracelet that feels like an AP Royal Oak. The Twelve is less action and adventure than my Tudor, but it looks great when I am answering Slack messages, writing emails, or watching YouTube videos about watches. Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT - $3,700 Justin Hast (@justinhast) is a writer, producer, and watch lover. The Bulgari Aluminum 40mm GMT is criminally comfortable with a distinct vibe you either love or hate (the way great design should be). It was the watch of the Jet Set in the 90’s and even adorned the nose of an Alitalia. It’s a sub-$5k wild card for the curious. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire - $4,900 Nic Barnes is an Australian military pilot & W.O.E. contributor. Given the industry’s relentless price increases over the past few years, finding a watch from a major luxury brand within this price range is now much more challenging than it would have been previously. That said, if I was given $5,000 to spend on a watch tomorrow, I’d go straight to this one. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire combines exceptional Swiss craftsmanship with rich aviation heritage and versatile style. The clean dial is incredibly legible, with a distinct military-inspired aesthetic that gives it a classic appearance reminiscent of IWC’s mid-20th century pilot’s watches. In terms of robust functionality, the 6-bar water resistance is sufficient for any aviation activity I’d be willing to undertake, while the movement has recently been upgraded to the 32111 Calibre, giving it an impressive 5-day power reserve. At 39mm, the Spitfire is subtle enough to avoid unwanted attention but strikes a rare balance of sophistication and practicality. CWC RN Automatic Divers Watch 'MK. 2' - $1,370 Henry Black (@onhenryswrist) is a WOE contributor and a writer for Fratello. He's passionate about the power of the hobby to forge friendships and a sense of community, as well as sharing stories about the hobby from across the globe. The CWC RN Automatic Divers combines actual military heritage, with the original watches being issued to Royal Navy divers in the early 1980s (and iterative versions also being issued to the UK's Special Boat Service members). The specifications are modern: Fixed spring bars and a rugged stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance and a flat sapphire crystal, inside is a trusty Sellita SW200-1. The CWC is a fantastic strap-on-and-go watch. CWC watches continue to see action with journalists reporting from the front lines of conflicts around the world. I wear mine in the ocean regularly, and the practical visibility and the quality of the luminescent material are good, too. For that reason alone, it is a solid choice for the W.O.E. community, and epitomizes the idea of "everything you might need, and nothing else." There are versions available in quartz, too. Doxa Sub 300T - $1,990 Sketchy Boyz Watch Club (@sketchyboyzwatchclub) is an online community of professional end-users sharing our takes on all things horological. A modern reinterpretation of the original 1968 Doxa 300T "Conquistador", the contemporary Sub 300T is a purpose-built tool packed with functionality and historical provenance. Historically used by military, scientific, and professional divers across the world, Doxa has earned its place on this list. Those who wear them certainly understand the meaning of "use your tools." One of the best parts about the Sub 300T is the wide array of colors and configurations available to users as well. While the enigmatic "Professional" model in Signal Orange is, dare I say, "Iconic", there are several variants that all have their own appeal and unique history behind them. It is because of all these reasons that the Sketchy Boyz Watch Club recommends the Doxa Sub 300T for this list. (And all the other ones we wanted to do were already taken). Tudor Pelagos FXD MN - $4,150 Asha Wagner (@wildlander6) is a Fire Captain, Hazardous Materials Specialist, & USAR Task Force team member. The FXD MN was the first watch in the FXD series and was built from the ground up to be a purpose-built tool watch. The watch has a bidirectional bezel, which goes against the ISO 6425 requirements but makes the watch more useful for its intended purpose as an underwater navigation tool. It is also the first watch in the Pelagos line to have a bezel that overhangs the case as well as having its namesake fixed lugs. The wider bezel makes the watch easier to operate, especially while wearing gloves. The fixed lugs ensure the watch will remain securely attached to my wrist no matter what I get up to (I’ve popped spring bars on a number of occasions and almost lost a few watches). The shade of blue Tudor picked for this watch looks great whether it’s paired with my work uniform or it’s worn while on a tropical vacation. For all the reasons mentioned above, the Tudor FXD is a pioneering purpose-built tool watch that’s hard to beat for under $5,000. Sinn T50 - $3,840 Nacho Conde (@nachoconde) is a writer, photographer, host of the Fratello Talks podcast, and the Head of Content/Managing Editor at Fratello. Few brands today take the creation of bona fide tool watches as seriously as Sinn. The Frankfurt-based brand prides itself on manufacturing some of the world's most overdesigned, overspecced, action-ready watches. The Sinn T50 is a pinnacle of the brand's efforts to create a perfect titanium dive watch with the brand's uniquely function-informed aesthetics. It's an uncompromising tool, obscenely legible, perfectly proportioned, and packed with special features such as its locking bezel, dehumidifying capsule, and hard-coated titanium case. For the price, it's damn near impossible to beat. The Sinn T50 is an unpretentious watch more than capable enough to take on anything you throw its way and look good doing it, whether it's daily life or the sketchiest of adventures. Tudor Black Bay Pro - $4,225 Soturi (@soturidesign) is a Marine veteran-owned business producing handmade watch straps inspired by military heritage. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is easily the best watch under $5,000 because it nails that perfect mix of vintage style and modern performance. With a 70-hour power reserve, you can leave it off for a couple of days and it’s still ticking strong. Its versatile design means it looks great whether you’re at the office or in the field. Plus, the build quality is top-notch, so you know it’s going to last. Tudor’s solid reputation in the watch world just seals the deal. Sinn T50 - $3,870 James Stacey (@jestacey) is the Lead Editor with Hodinkee, Co-Host of The Grey NATO Podcast, and a hopeless tool watch nerd. Given the $5000 limit meant that I couldn't pick my beloved Tudor Pelagos 39, the final choice was pretty easy for me as I'm a huge fan of the excellent Sinn T50. Essentially a titanium take on the already A+ Sinn U50, the T50 offers a 41mm grade 5 titanium case with a black dial and super-legible sword hands. Paired with either Sinn’s matching bracelet or the brand's recent addition of a two-piece nylon (or heck, one of W.O.E's excellent Five Eye nylon straps) it's a premium sport watch that looks the part and won't get you much in the way of unwanted attention if someone spots it on your wrist. Think of it like a modern Omega Seamaster 2254 but made of titanium and representing all of Sinn's skillset in crafting sporty, well-made, and entirely action-ready watches. Doxa Sub 1200T - $1,990 Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist) is a member of the W.O.E. team, a former commercial diver, and a veteran of the United States Coast Guard. The predecessor to the modern Sub 300T that also made this list, I received my Doxa Sub 1200T as a gift from my wife when we got married in 2015. Heading to commercial diving school shortly thereafter, I decided I would wear the watch in all conditions above and below the water’s surface no matter the repercussions. Today, with a lot of dives under its bracelet, the old Doxa shows no shortage of wear and tear while feeling more like an old friend than any other watch in my collection. With 1200 meters of water resistance, an unused helium escape valve, and a chunky wearing experience, the Sub 1200T is way more capable than I ever was underwater while harkening back to the golden age of tool dive watches. The case back is also engraved with my anniversary so I don’t forget. Tudor Pelagos 39 - $4,700 Watches of Espionage is a former CIA Case Officer turned watch influencer. My pick-up-and-go watch is the Tudor Pelagos 39. While dubbed a smaller version of the 42mm Pelagos, in reality, this is more of a modernized titanium Tudor Submariner than a smaller Pelagos. Titanium is my favorite material for tool watches given its wearability which is, at 39mm, perfect. The bracelet is so comfortable I rarely wear straps with it and the micro adjustments make it comfortable during the summer months. If the Black Bay 58 and FXD got together and had a baby, it would be the Pelagos 39. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Advice for Buying a Watch
Read MoreEvery Watch In Jack Carr’s Red Sky Mourning
Sketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old. That said, there...
Read MoreSketchy Breitlings, A Vietnam-Era Rolex, & More Making fun of Navy SEALs writing books is a joke that will never get old. That said, there have been some great authors to come out of the Teams and Jack Carr is at the top of the list. Carr’s series of novels detailing the adventures of James Reece has become a massive hit, transcending the boundaries of our community to find broader mainstream success including a 2022 television adaptation starring Chris Pratt, The Terminal List. We have discussed watch culture in the SEAL Teams at length and Carr is also a watch enthusiast, with an extensive collection that includes a Rolex Sea-Dweller he wore while serving in the Teams as well as a Tudor Pelagos FXD Black, several Vietnam-era Seikos, an Ares, and more (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) One of the key aspects that makes Carr’s writing compelling is the author’s incredible attention to detail, always doing additional research to describe firearms, gear, and watches in depth. Throughout the series, James Reece, Carr’s protagonist, wears a vintage Rolex Submariner gifted to him by his father, a Vietnam-era SEAL turned CIA Case Officer. In the television adaptation, Reece—portrayed by Chris Pratt—wears several watches including an Oris Aquis Pro Date Calibre 400, Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD (an insider told us he wanted to wear a military watch in specific scenes), a G-Shock GA-100-1A1, and a period correct 5.11 Military Tactical Field Ops Watch. Chris Pratt wearing a Resco Instruments BlackFrog Gen2 Black PVD in the television adaptation of The Terminal List. (Photo Credit: Justin Lubin) Carr’s seventh book in the James Reece series, Red Sky Mourning, was released last month. When I read it, I was truly surprised by the number of specific watches mentioned in the text, with one even playing a pivotal role in the plot. I knew Carr was a watch enthusiast, but this new novel shows how far down the rabbit hole the SEAL-turned-author has fallen. If you haven’t checked out the book, be advised: This text contains some spoilers. Elba Industries Breitling Emergency In Red Sky Mourning, at least one watch with a special complication plays an integral role in the plot. Andrew Hart, the dastardly fictional head of the fictional Elba Industries, wears a sketchy Breitling Emergency complete with a co-signed dial featuring Elba’s logo, a golden bee, an homage to co-signed “unit watches” from Breitling including the Blackwater Breitling we have discussed in great detail. Given Carr’s history in the SEAL Teams and working with CIA, it would be reasonable to assume the author has seen a few of these watches in his day. Former Blackwater CEO Erik Prince wearing a Blackwater-signed Breitling Emergency. An analog digital timepiece from Breitling’s golden era producing “watches for professionals”, the Emergency contains an antenna that broadcasts a signal on the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency when activated. Commercial and military aircraft monitored the frequency and were able to alert search and rescue teams of an individual's location, anywhere in the world. At Red Sky Mourning’s climax, the signal from Hart’s Emergency is used to locate the ne'er-do-well and James Reece, an old-school Rolex guy through and through. Vintage Rolex Submariner A Rolex Submariner reference 5513 from the same era as the Sub worn by James Reece throughout the books. (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage) In the Terminal List series, James Reece is a former US Navy SEAL who has also worked extensively with the Agency. Reece’s father, Tom, was also a SEAL turned CIA Case Officer, having served in the Teams in Vietnam where he purchased the Submariner that also features prominently throughout the series on his son’s wrist. In Red Sky Mourning, James Reece’s Rolex is taken from him by the Chinese intelligence officer Ba Jin who also asks what year the Sub is from. Reece says, “It’s a ’68. You guys had just kicked off your Cultural Revolution a couple of years earlier. How many people did Mao kill in his efforts to purify the Party?” As you’d expect, Reece ends up getting the watch back in a way that does not work out well for Ba Jin. US Navy SEALs in Vietnam wearing Rolex or Tudor Submariners. Given the 1968 timeframe, the Submariner in question is most likely either a non-date chronometer certified 5512 or potentially the non-COSC 5513, both models that are closely associated with Vietnam-era SEALs. It’s also conceivable the watch is a date model 1680 that also offered the red Submariner text at the time that is so coveted by collectors today. While arguably this should have been an issued Tudor Submariner, a classic Rolex Submariner is the perfect choice for a legacy SEAL like Reece that also once again demonstrates the author’s attention to detail and love for horology. Rhodesian Army Roamer Anfibio W.O.E.’s personal Rhodesian Roamer (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In Red Sky Mourning, as he often does, Reece visits the Hastings family, home of his best friend Raife Hastings, a South African-born former SEAL teammate, and his father, Jonathan, who served with the Special Air Service (SAS) and later the famed Rhodesian Selous Scouts. Reaching extremely deep into the annals of military watch history, Carr equips Jonathan with a Roamer Anfibio, a seldom-discussed Swiss watch whose claim to fame is having been issued to the Rhodesian military back in the 1970s. Rhodesian issued Roamer on a leather military "Bund" strap worn by Colonel David “King” Parker, Commanding Officer of the Rhodesian Light Infantry (RLI). Col. Parker is wearing the Roamer, which was common according to pictures from the Bush War. Jonathan Hasting’s history with the Selous Scouts, a special forces component of the Rhodesian Army, makes this watch an excellent and historically accurate choice for Hastings who serves as something of an additional father figure to Reece. What led Roamer, a Swiss brand founded in 1888, to supply the Rhodesian military is one of watch history’s mysteries, but you can’t fault the quality of Carr’s homework. If you have been following this page, you know I've spent a lot of my life living, working, and traveling in Africa, a country with a large number of unique and lesser-known military watches. Interestingly, Hasting’s trajectory closely follows that of a real individual, someone who is not widely known outside of the Intelligence Community. Tianjin Seagull 1963 Chang Zheng is a Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine featuring prominently in a cat-and-mouse game with the USS Reagan in the early pages of Red Sky Mourning. In describing her captain, Commander Zhen, Carr says mentions the, “…Tianjin Seagull 1963 watch on his wrist.”, a reference that serves as perhaps the second deepest watch cut in the book after the aforementioned Roamer Anfibio. Known to enthusiasts as simply the “Seagull 1963”, the Chinese-made manual-winding chronograph serves as perhaps the least expensive mechanical chronograph available today, with an ST19 caliber produced in China at Tianjin’s factory with tooling purchased from Switzerland back in the 1950s. A Chinese Jin-Class Type 094 Submarine like the Chang Zheng mentioned in Red Sky Mourning. Initially produced for Chinese Air Force pilots, the Seagull 1963 is an enthusiast-favorite watch because of its attainable price point—typically less than $500—in relation to its complication coupled with a surprisingly well-decorated movement. For a Chinese submarine commander, it also makes a lot of sense given the watch’s military history. Captaining a Chinese submarine likely involves direct inclusion in the communist party. For Commander Zhen to demonstrate his pride in the party by wearing a mechanical watch produced in his country feels dead-on accurate. Rolex Yacht-Master A second watch from the Crown mentioned in the text is the Rolex Yacht-Master, worn by Dr. Lawrence Miles, an avid sailor, former CIA contractor, and the billionaire founder of the Delphi Corporation. Reece goes to Miles’ home in Marin, California to learn more about the motivations behind the nefarious Andrew Hart. During their conversation, Miles describes a meeting he had with Hart and two other sketchy individuals, saying, “I remember they all wore the same watch—Breitling Emergencies. As a sailor you notice things like that,” he said, tapping the white gold Rolex Yacht-Master on his wrist and pointing to the stainless Submariner worn by his guest.” While white gold and platinum are the materials that come to mind first for the Yacht-Master, the new titanium version would also be an interesting pick for Miles’ character. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Also describing his sailing history, the Yacht-Master is the perfect choice for the billionaire and passionate sailor who spends his days overlooking San Francisco Bay. Unlike many Rolex sport models, there is no full-steel Yacht-Master in the modern catalog, meaning you’re looking at either full-gold, some combination of steel and platinum or steel and gold, or the new titanium variant released earlier this year. Given Miles’ financial situation, we like to think we went full billionaire bling. (Photo Credit: W.O.E./James Rupley) Digital Tool Watches (D.T.W.) & Smartwatches In addition to the above-listed mechanical analog watches, Carr also mentions a Timex Ironman in the text, placing the legendary attainable digital watch on the wrist of retired US Army General and current CIA Director Marcus Howe. In the text, Carr writes, “Howe looked down at the Timex Ironman watch that had graced his wrist for most of his time in uniform…” With a thirty-year background in US Army Special Forces, the humble Ironman is an appropriate and pragmatic option for the Agency director. Adding another layer, the Timex Ironman was commonly issued to CIA Paramilitary Officers as well as partner forces including Afghan units. While less key to the plot, smartwatches are also mentioned several times in the text, usually in discussions regarding their vulnerability. We’ve detailed the role and counterintelligence vulnerabilities of the smartwatch in modern espionage, and we appreciate Carr for bringing this element of modern watch culture into the book. Read more about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” HERE. More than many thriller writers from outside the community, Carr manages to capture both the essential essence and concrete details of life within intelligence and special operations. Viewed from any number of angles and by various enthusiast communities for knives, firearms, tactical equipment, and watches, Carr packs the James Reece sagas with layer upon layer of references and Easter eggs that some will grasp and some won’t, but that’s the fun of it. We often make fun of SEALs, most of whom are authors, and will continue to do so. But Jack Carr has done it the right way, avoiding repetitively rehashing his own GWOT adventures in favor of the larger-than-life story of James Reece that is bolstered by Carr’s personal experience in the field of special operations and espionage. For watch enthusiasts, this level of attention to detail and historical accuracy is the good stuff and only adds another level of intrigue to Carr’s work. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: SOG Seikos - Vietnam MACV-SOG Watches, Part II Featured Image Credits: Breitling Emergency (Photo Credit: Lunar Oyster), Rolex Submariner 5513 (Photo Credit: Wind Vintage), Roamer Anfibio (Photo Credit: James Rupley)
Read MoreUS Secret Service Omega Seamaster During Trump's Assassination Attempt
A Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the...
Read MoreA Special Unit-Specific Version Of An Iconic Watch Designed For The US Secret Service This past Saturday, a series of gunshots was heard around the world. Former US President Donald Trump was speaking at a rally in Pennsylvania in support of his upcoming presidential bid when suddenly, he flinched and reached for his right ear as shots rang out. In seconds, the former president’s US Secret Service protective detail took him to the ground, shielding Trump with their bodies as a USSS Counter Sniper Team engaged and killed Thomas Matthew Crooks. As Secret Service agents rushed Trump offstage, a member of his detail was photographed wearing a special unit-specific version of the Omega Seamaster, another example of a member of our community wearing a serious watch in the line of fire. The USSS Omega Seamaster Diver 300 “Unit Watch” on the wrist of an agent on Trump’s protective detail. (Photo Credit: Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images) As a disclaimer, our interest in the watch in no way diminishes the severity of the incident, the injured, or the tragic loss of firefighter Corey Comperatore. The Omega is relatively insignificant here, but timepieces are our prism to view history and current events. By any measurement, this assassination attempt was a security failure and will be investigated. Much of what transpired remains unclear and disinformation and misinformation are rampant. We will not opine on what we think happened and will wait for the details to come to light. Regardless of the failures this past weekend, the Secret Service is an honorable profession with ranks filled with true professionals. Secret Service Agents are in harm’s way on a daily basis, regularly putting their lives on the line to protect the office of the President and those running for it. It is a zero-fail mission. The good guys have to get it right every single day, the bad guys only have to get it right once. This article will likely be interpreted by some as political, but to be clear, it is not. On Saturday, July 13th, a timepiece—a special version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 designed for the US Secret Service—found itself at the center of a history-making event. We are here to talk about that watch. Omega Seamaster Diver 300 US Secret Service Unit Watch A community submission showing a USSS Omega Seamaster “Unit Watch”. In late 2023, US Secret Service Agents representing multiple field offices and units began taking delivery of a customized version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300, a model family more closely associated with James Bond. Serving as the primary unit watch within Omega’s catalog, the Secret Service Seamaster differs from the standard version with a no-date format, beige luminescent material, and matte finishing throughout the case and bracelet. On the case back, the Secret Service star is engraved along with “Worthy of Trust and Confidence.” On the bottom of the case, agents can have their commission book number or something else unique to them printed in subtle text. While watches like this are sometimes purchased from a commemorative point of view, many are used as tools, with the pictured Special Agent in Trump’s protective detail providing further evidence. Importantly, this reference is available only to military and law enforcement units, including the US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogman Corps (Frømandskorpset), and other American and European units. Other individuals within the Secret Service including the Counter Assault Team (CAT aka HAWKEYE), which was also present during the assassination attempt, have also purchased the Omega. Of note, other USSS units have special versions of the Tudor LHD Pelagos and certain Breitling references. As is often the case in our community, the US Secret Service has a thriving watch culture. Again, the watch in question does not represent the most important aspect of the events that transpired over the weekend, instead serving as yet another example of how watches are utilized as tools in the daily lives of professionals in the military, intelligence, NatSec, and federal service communities. Thoughts and prayers for all involved in the events over the weekend. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreThe Murky World Of Counterfeit Rolex
Fake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity....
Read MoreFake Watch Shopping In Istanbul - A Case Study As a CIA Case Officer operating overseas, you are exposed to the dark side of humanity. It is not a career for the faint-hearted and you learn some things they don’t teach in school. He who fights monsters should see to it that in the process he does not become a monster. And if you gaze long enough into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you. – Friedrich Nietzsche While the quote is dramatic, there is some merit to it. I didn’t fully realize how abnormal life at CIA was until I separated from the Agency. A byproduct of a career at CIA is a fascination with illicit activity; arms dealers, wildlife trafficking, organized crime, and, now that I am an aspiring watch nerd, counterfeit watches. Fake Watches - A Real-World Case Study Most articles on fake, or “replica” watches cover topics like “How to spot fake Rolex?”, “How much does a fake Rolex cost?”, or “Where to buy a fake Rolex?” These are all interesting topics, but we wanted to go deeper into the counterfeit luxury watch industry. To do this, I went counterfeit watch shopping in Istanbul, Turkey. There’s nothing like first-hand experience. Counterfeit timepieces are a multi-billion-dollar industry, with shaky estimates indicating between 30 and 50 million fake watches entering the market each year. Contrast that figure with Rolex’s estimated annual production of approximately 1 million pieces per annum; It is reasonable to conclude that there are probably more fake Rolex watches on wrists than there are genuine examples throughout the world. This means that when you see someone wearing a Rolex, statistically speaking, it’s probably fake – a crazy thought. Istanbul - A Counterfeit Watch Mecca During a recent trip to Istanbul, I had a mission: to acquire a “super clone,” or ”superfake” a watch that is nearly indistinguishable from a real thing. Not only are cosmetic traits like the miniature laser-etched Rolex crown on the crystal present but if you take the watch apart, the movement itself is branded Rolex. Even for experienced watchmakers, some of these “super clones” are, all the way down to the movement components, virtually indistinguishable from genuine Rolex. There are differences, of course, but these “super clones” are astonishingly close to the genuine product to the untrained eye. I wanted to see for myself. Rolex crown laser-etched into the crystal, introduced in 2001 to deter counterfeiters. (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is a covered market with over 4,000 shops selling everything from Turkish sweets to clothes and yes, of course, a large selection of counterfeit goods. Entering through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque gate, visitors are overwhelmed with a plethora of shops specifically targeting tourists. The presence of fake watches is immediately apparent and, in contrast to many markets around the world, completely in the open. The watch shopping experience varies depending on the shop but on the higher end is almost like a boutique experience, the only difference being the watches are fake and you can actually buy a “Rolex” rather than be put on a waiting list. They offer tea and coffee, a chair for your bored spouse to sit in, and customer service that exceeds the boutique experience presented by many luxury watchmakers. Interestingly, pictures are generally not discouraged and the sellers are relatively open about the sale of fakes. It isn’t just Rolex, either. Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even counterfeit sketchy Breitlings are readily available, with starting (negotiable) prices of around $450. Most of the watches utilize Miyota movements and are, as you might expect, made in China. Pretty much any reference you can imagine is available including the Le Mans Daytona and Titanium Yachtmaster. 2024 Watches and Wonders releases? No worries, they should be available soon. What Is A “Fake” Rolex? It is important to understand what a fake Rolex is. We have identified three categories of counterfeit Rolex watches to be aware of. Cheap Or Tourist Fakes: These cost somewhere between $50 and $300 and are generally picked up from street vendors in major tourist cities in Europe, South America, the Middle East, and even New York. You used to be able to spot them by their quartz movements which caused the second hand to “tick” instead of sweep, but now they tend to have automatic movements, more accurate details, and better finishing. But, in general, they are still sloppy fakes and you are not fooling anyone who owns a Rolex with this piece unless you are in a dark room. Super Clone or One For One: So-called replica watches, nearly identical to the genuine thing. They can cost over a thousand dollars and rumor has it that even when taken apart, it can be difficult to tell if the watch is genuine or a reproduction. In theory, one could wear a super clone to the local RedBar watch nerd meetup and fool everyone in the room. It’s been rumored that these have even been unknowingly sold by legitimate dealers as well, proving that the only way to know something is real is to buy it from the boutique. Frankenwatches: A catch-all term used to describe watches that may be made up of parts that have been switched out and/or a real watch with fake parts (replaced bezel, dial, hands, etc…). Some are honest efforts to restore a watch, but more sinister versions are meant to fool prospective buyers. A recent notable example was the “Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ auctioned by Phillips for over $3.4 million. As documented by popular watch blogger Perezcope, the watch itself was a frankenwatch, allegedly cobbled together by insiders with access to the Omega archives. Tropical” Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 ‘Broad Arrow’ frankenwatch, sold Phillips for over $3.4 million (Photo Credit: Phillips) Why Are Fake Watches A Problem? At a minimum, fake watches are textbook examples of intellectual property (IP) theft, using the designs and logos that Swiss brands spent millions of dollars developing over decades. Some go as far as to link the sale of counterfeit watches to child labor, sweatshops, and even terrorism, human trafficking, and organized crime. While direct evidence of this is scarce, it is reasonable to assume that a link exists to some extent. That said, the vast majority of the counterfeit industry originates in China and it appears as though the Chinese government at least tacitly supports it and probably has some oversight and regulation. Are Fakes Substitutes For The Real Thing? According to Business Insider, 23.3 million counterfeit watches are circling the US, more than Rolex has sold worldwide in the past 15 years. The logical conclusion is that this hurts Rolex’s bottom line. But are fakes reasonable substitutes? Is Rolex losing potential customers to fake watches? Probably not. The fact is, the type of person that will buy and wear a fake, likely can’t afford the real thing. In other cases, some may buy a fake now and then the real thing as their financial circumstances change. UFC fighter Conor McGregor recently revealed during a GQ Sports interview that he used to wear fake watches to press conferences before he could afford a genuine Rolex. He is now a legitimate customer, owning millions of dollars in Rolex, AP, and Patek. One could argue that in McGregor’s case, the fake Rolex watches served as the “top of the funnel” for Swiss brands. Conor McGregor Wearing a (real?) Rolex Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Should I Buy A Fake Rolex? We can think of very few legitimate reasons to purchase a fake Rolex, and yes, doing so does ultimately fuel the already insatiable market for these timepieces and potentially provide funding for organized crime syndicates. Further, in some places, it’s illegal to buy and transport fake watches. Our advice is simple, buy the (real) and best watch you can afford. There are plenty of great and legitimate watches on the market that cost less than your iPhone. Real Rolex Sub (Photo Credit: James Rupley) In response to “Trading A Rolex To Get Out Of A Sticky Situation - Myth Or Reality?”, many commenters suggested traveling with a fake Rolex for bartering. The logic may be sound, but if you are really at the point where you have decided to part with a watch worth thousands of dollars, your life is likely on the line and the cost is trivial. Further, whoever you are giving the watch to is presumably in a position of power and likely someone you do not want to piss off should they determine the watch is fake. The potential for this plan to backfire is simply too high. Le Mans Daytona and “Titanium” Yachtmaster - all fakes I have heard of some people with expensive watch collections that have “dummy” displays in their house, the idea being that if someone breaks in to steal their collection, they would take the fake watches without realizing the real collection is hidden in a safe. This is something that could potentially make sense but is not a practice I would advise. If someone goes the distance to specifically target you for your watch collection, they are likely going to be pissed to find out they stole fake watches and may come back for retribution. No watch is worth your life. All that said, I do have a fake Rolex Submariner that I received as a gag gift from a wealthy friend in Dubai. I have never worn it or even taken out the links to make it fit. Who knows, maybe it will come in handy one day. A real Rolex Daytona (Photo Credit: James Rupley) Should I Be Worried About Fake Watches? By some estimates 20-50% of art in museums is fake and even the largest auction houses with significant resources have been duped with fake watches. While the risk of unwittingly buying a modern watch that is fake is real, this is particularly real in the vintage market, where replacement parts and refinishing jobs can result in a “real” watch becoming a frankenwatch. As an individual buyer, you should not be responsible for identifying a fake. The safest thing to do is to either buy new watches or build a relationship with a seller you not only trust but trust their expertise. The latter is difficult as it can be incredibly difficult to determine which parts are genuine and which are replacements. Back In Istanbul Despite my best efforts, I was not able to track down a “super clone” in the Grand Bazaar. Many of the vendors claimed to have better quality watches and vigorously sent Whatsapp messages to their colleagues to bring one by, but they never appeared. The fakes in the souk were mediocre at best with loose bezels and crude finishing and claimed Miyota movements. Fun party gags? Maybe, but I didn’t buy one. W.O.E.’s personal fake watch, acquired in Dubai. I did pick up a set of (fake) boxes, papers, and a blank Rolex warranty card to match my gifted counterfeit Rolex. Similar to the watches themselves, the box was crudely crafted and isn't fooling anyone. While I do not advocate for anyone to purchase anything illicit, I did it in the name of science. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: The W.O.E. Tudor PVD Pelagos FXD
Read MoreCustom G-Shock, Omega, & Tudor - Watches Fit To Guard A King
Unit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing...
Read MoreUnit Watches Of The UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection Despite the rise of inexpensive Digital Tool Watches and feature-rich connected smartwatches, there is an ever-growing subset of the military, intelligence, and law enforcement communities with a passion for mechanical or otherwise more interesting timepieces. We’ve discussed so-called “unit watches” in detail many times. However, in this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at unit watches from the world of law enforcement, specifically the UK’s Royalty and Specialist Protection (RaSP), an intriguing unit from within the Metropolitan Police’s Specialist Operations directorate. To date, there are three known unit watches from RaSP, a Casio G-Shock from the attainable tier as well as a Tudor and Omega from the world of Swiss luxury, all of which see active service as tools in the performance of the unit’s unique role. Protecting Royals, Politicians, & A Castle Or Two Officers stand guard outside Windsor Castle. (Photo Credit: Maureen McLean) Similar to the role played by the US Secret Service, who are also no strangers to unit watches, RaSP provides close protection services to the UK royal family including the king, the prime minister, various other politicians, ambassadors, and visiting heads of state. In addition, the unit also serves as specially trained armed security for royal residences including palaces in London, Windsor Castle, and other sites in Scotland. Unlike the United States, which has not been ruled by anyone wearing a crown since a kerfuffle ending in 1783, the average police officer in Great Britain doesn’t carry a firearm, making the armed and highly trained RaSP a higher level of protection and response in the event of terrorist attacks or assassination attempts on the Royal Family. Hired from the ranks of experienced frontline police officers as opposed to “off the street”, RaSP officers have been called into action on several prominent occasions. Royal Protection Officers tackle an attacker after an assassination attempt on then-Prince Charles (standing far right) in Sydney in 1994. (Photo Credit: Express UK) Far from idle threats, Royalty Protection Officers engaged in a dramatic shootout during an attempted kidnapping of Princess Anne in 1974 as well as when then-Prince Charles was attacked during a speech in 1994. In recent years, the Duke of Sussex (Netflix calls him Prince Harry) made headlines when he fought to continue his RaSP protection detail even after leaving his royal role and moving to California in 2020. In close protection scenarios, RaSP officers typically wear a suit with a concealed firearm, radio, and less-than-lethal weapons in certain instances. In contrast, officers don a more traditional uniform when providing overt armed protective security at royal residences. This operational duality is reflected in the unit’s choices for customized timepieces. A Custom Full-Metal G-Shock For Royalty Protection Officers The RaSP’s customized GM-B2100BD-1A. (Photo Credit: G-Central) The impetus for this article stems from G-Central, a leader in G-Shock news and information. A few weeks back, we noticed a post covering a unit-specific version of the GM-B2100BD-1A, a full-metal variant of the so-called “CasiOak” that debuted back in 2019. With an analog-digital display and an IP-coated black stainless steel case and bracelet, the RaSP unit variant was spotted on uniformed officers outside Windsor Castle and included a custom United Kingdom flag integrating a Thin Blue Line motif on the clasp as well as a special XIV engraving on the bracelet. The XIV references the SO14, the former name of the Royalty Protection Department that merged with SO1 or Specialist Protection to become the modern RaSP in 2015. On the case back, the watch offered an engraved image of Windsor Castle. Judging by the wear across the case and bracelet on the watches spotted by G-Central, the Royalty Protection Officers use these tools in performing their duties, with the G-Shock serving as an excellent pairing with the more utilitarian uniform worn by the unit in this instance. While we always hear about G-Shock in military and law enforcement scenarios, customized unit versions are rare and in this case, pretty cool. A custom caseback and clasp engraving for the RaSP G-Shock. (Photo Credit: G-Central) Rather than an officially sanctioned unit watch, these G-Shock models appear to have been a smaller unofficial unit purchase only for members of Windsor Castle’s protective detail. With that in mind, the G-Shocks do not expressly display “RaSP”, instead using XIV as a reference to the unit’s history. For more refined scenarios including providing close protection for royals during public events, RaSP also has a couple of interesting official watches from more luxurious brands in its stable. Omega Planet Ocean For Royalty Protection Officers Known for recently providing customized versions of the Seamaster Diver 300 to US Navy SEALs, Danish Frogmen, and the US Secret Service, Omega also produced a very rare unit version of its Seamaster Planet Ocean for RaSP, designing the piece with input from the unit in 2018 with delivery of approximately 60 units taking place in 2020. From the front, the watch looks identical to civilian market versions. On the case sides, the watches are engraved with the officer’s initials, warrant number, and watch issue number, marking the only time we’ve seen engravings on the case side of a unit-customized Omega. In addition, the sapphire exhibition case back is emblazoned with a two-part emblem consisting of a crown representing the royalty side of the branch as well as a portcullis signifying the specialist side tasked with protecting government ministers and other dignitaries. In addition, the caseback's outer perimeter references the previous unit designations used by those departments that merged to eventually become RaSP. SO14 and SO1 we've already touched on, which were in existence until 2015, however SO12(A) was an earlier forerunner on the ministerial side. The Shield Protects The Crown (Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches) The phenomenon of Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.) is nothing new, with the shield having provided special unit versions of many of its core models to various military and governmental organizations. Around 2017 or 2018, the unit commissioned 75 Tudor Black Bay Blue for current and former members of the unit through Watches of Switzerland. A Tudor rose with a crown on top is on the dial, representing an intriguing mashup between Tudor the watch brand’s rose logo—seen on the crown on this reference—and the traditional heraldic rose that often serves as an emblem of England. The case back is engraved with “ROYALTY & SPECIALIST PROTECTION”, an individual's identification number, and serialized one through 75. Photo Credit: Bob’s Watches (Left) & Ross Povey (Right) Like other special watches commissioned for military or government units, several of these RaSP Tudor Black Bay have made their way into private civilian hands by way of prominent auction houses and aftermarket resellers asking for prices as high as $30,000. One special example produced for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee in 2022 hammered for a staggering CHF 81,900, about $91k in today’s US dollars. These very public sales—one of which occurred around the time of The Queen's funeral—resulted in a change of policy from the department's senior leadership sometime in 2023, and there have been no newly developed official RaSP unit watches since. That’s why the above-mentioned G-Shock was produced on a smaller team-specific scale without RaSP markings. While we are not here to condemn unit members looking to turn a profit on personalized watches they likely never imagined would attain such value, we prefer to see these in the hands of the operators themselves, carrying forward the Use Your Tools ethos. Dual Purpose Tools While we typically concentrate on unit watches related to the military and intelligence community, there is clearly a significant community of watch enthusiasts in law enforcement and first responders. Unit watches like those produced for the UK’s Royalty Protection Officers serve a dual purpose role, acting as tools in the performance of their daily missions while also serving as keepsakes honoring their service both during and after the fact. Seeing such a wide swath of watchmaking within the Royalty Protection community, from a $500 G-Shock to luxury models from Omega and Tudor, further solidifies that our community is oriented around the capabilities and intrigue of the tool rather than flex culture. If you have other interesting unit watches to share, you know where to find us. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: U.S. Presidents and Timepieces, The Last 40 Years
Read MoreIntel
Santa The Spymaster: What Watch Would He Actually Wear?
Would St. Nick Opt For A Diver, GMT, Or A Chronograph On The Big Night? While you may think of Santa Claus as an overweight...
Read MoreWould St. Nick Opt For A Diver, GMT, Or A Chronograph On The Big Night? While you may think of Santa Claus as an overweight yet jolly friend to children everywhere, there is more to St. Nick than meets the eye. Santa is a spymaster. This is a man who keeps tabs on all of the world’s children from the safety of the North Pole through a complex intel network primarily staffed by elves, some real 1984 stuff if you ask me. Utilizing a covert influence campaign, Santa convinces us this dystopian reality is not only ok but that we should cherish it, altering our daily behavior to win his favor and access to his fat sack of toys. One night a year, Santa suits up in a full tactical holiday loadout. Santa makes surreptitious entry into millions of homes with military-like precision. The original Yuletide Gangster. Like clandestine operators from the world of intelligence or SpecOps, Santa is screwed if the operation is compromised by some kid straight off the naughty list posting him to TikTok with a mouth full of cookies and milk. Luckily, St. Nick’s tradecraft is tight. Vintage Rolex Xmas ad, World War II - 1942 (Rolex Magazine) Given the nature of his work, Santa Claus is mission-focused and subscribes to the Use Your Tools ethos. At W.O.E., we know Santa also puts a lot of thought into which timepiece to bring into action on the big night. To avoid ubiquitous technical surveillance (UTS), Father Christmas can’t be rolling out with an Apple Watch. He can’t risk being tracked across the night sky by NORAD and intercepted by F-22s. With kids around the world safely snoring in bed trusting Santa to come through, the stakes couldn’t be higher. Everything, including Santa’s watch, has to be good to go. In this special holiday Dispatch, we’ll have some fun and unseriously recommend a few timepieces providing legitimate utility to the big man from the North Pole. If any of you disagree with our picks or have suggestions of your own, let the holiday spirit flow through you right into the comments section. Breitling Emergency II Sneaking into millions of peoples’ homes while they sleep. A worldwide network of clandestine elves monitoring your every move. A flying sleigh. The entire concept is sketchy. As we have proven many times, sketchy dudes wear Breitling. We don’t make the rules. For St. Nick, the right Breitling for the job was always going to be the Emergency II, the modern successor to the legendary Emergency that became favored by SpecOps and intelligence professionals during the ‘90s and early 2000s. The Emergency is a digital quartz-powered timepiece, meaning Santa is going to get all of the multi-timezone and timing functions he could ever need or want. And if the worst should happen and an adversarial entity somehow shoots Santa out of the cool night sky, the Emergency still has its position indicating radio beacon, meaning his team of Pararescue elves will be able to locate and recover Santa in time to save the day. Rolex GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710 If it ain’t a sketchy Breitling, our next pic for Santa is going to have to be a Rolex GMT, specifically the GMT-Master II “Coke” 16710. We have often called the GMT-Master family the perfect CIA Case Officer’s watch, offering easy tracking of multiple timezones as well as durability while also looking the part in virtually every scenario. As far as we know, Santa isn’t on the Agency’s payroll, but that doesn’t mean he isn’t a master of espionage and exactly the right type of guy for a GMT-Master. Details matter. You’ll notice we’ve selected an older reference 16710 with a red and black “Coke” bezel. This is not only to match Santa’s suit but also a sure sign Santa isn’t following hype culture and reaching for the newest ceramic bezel variants from the Crown. A dude who measures his life in centuries ain’t got time for hype. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Given Santa’s high-altitude sleigh-riding escapades, we can’t help but wonder whether Mr. Claus relies on any kind of supplemental oxygen. Up there, he’s more or less a Yuletide astronaut, and that element, combined with the importance of speed as Christmas Eve turns into Christmas Day, means the Omega Speedmaster is a perfect choice for jolly old St. Nick. To fit the watch over his big red suit, we’d imagine Santa would equip his Speedmaster with a Five Eye Nylon strap. Utility is everything. In addition to its low-pressure resistance, the Speedmaster’s chronograph functionality would also come in handy when you consider that Santa needs to move from house to house with the quickness to get the job done. A watch that proved itself both on the Moon as well as on Apollo 13 when a Speedy was used to time a crucial engine burn to get the astronauts back to Earth safely, the Speedmaster is also no stranger to high-stakes operations, exactly the kind of thing you need when you have exactly one night to spread Christmas cheer to all of the good girls and boys. G-Shock DW6900-1V A watch commonly issued to the SpecOps community including US Navy SEALs, we’d argue a regular old G-Shock would also be rugged enough for Santa’s holiday ops. Despite what you may think about Santa being more of an aviation guy, we’d wager Santa has graduated from several specialized pipelines in his lengthy career as an Arctic operator. To remain hidden, who’s to say Santa doesn’t have to conduct the occasional combat dive followed by an over-the-beach infiltration? In any case, the G-Shock is up for it, with chronograph, elapsed time, secondary time zone, and alarm functions to make sure Santa hits each house precisely on time. Whether it’s chimneys, trees, sleigh-riding, or general covert operations, the G-Shock is durable and, even if it is damaged, easily and cheaply replaced, not that St. Nick is afraid of spending a few bucks to keep up his watch game. Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT There’s also a chance St. Nick subscribes to the theory and practice of Tudors Of Espionage (T.O.E.). One of the leaders of the modern Unit Watch scene, Tudor has produced special versions of its Pelagos collection for Tier One SpecOps units, the US Secret Service Counter Assault Team, and the French Commando Hubert. Whether Santa would go for a customized Tudor or not is unclear (maybe Rudolph on the caseback?), but we think the new Pelagos FXD GMT is a great option nonetheless. For one, the FXD’s fixed lug design means Santa won’t lose the thing in a tussle, and the addition of GMT functionality is also a plus. 200 meters of water resistance is great for peace of mind, and the fully lumed dial and bezel are going to be great for Christmas Eve work. The titanium case is also a great option as Santa agonizes over every gram to keep his sleigh as lightweight and speedy as possible. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Another brand with close ties to our community and military aviation in particular, an IWC would also be a perfect choice for Santa. Though he may not be a graduate of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, we’d argue that with centuries of high-speed flying chops aboard his magical sleigh, St. Nick is as qualified a pilot as any. Many of the aspects that make a great pilot’s watch also make it a solid choice for Santa. Legibility is there, especially in the dark. The lightweight and durable ceramic case is also handy. And, of course, having a chronograph is great for timing a team of elves that is often getting into mischief. Drip is also key, and the subtle red highlights on the dial match Santa’s fit to a T. Seriously, W.O.E.? Watches For Santa? If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with us. One of our goals at W.O.E. is to never take ourselves too seriously, balancing the hard-hitting historical pieces of profiles with the odd fun article when and where it makes sense. If you laughed, great. If you didn’t, that’s ok and please be sure to leave a snarky comment down below. The past year has been big for W.O.E. We added our first full-time team member, started a YouTube Channel, and produced more articles than ever before. With that said, we have a ton in store for 2025 we can’t wait to share with y’all. I know we say it all the time, but we truly couldn’t do any of this with you. Thanks again and happy holidays. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. 2024 Holiday Gift Guide - Top Picks From Other Brands
Read MoreW.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 2 - CIA & Traditional Espionage
Top Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations,...
Read MoreTop Picks From A CIA Case Officer’s Bookshelf One of the most common requests we receive is for a reading list on intelligence, special operations, and national security. While this is somewhat outside our scope of Watches of Espionage, we are encouraged by this question because it demonstrates a desire to learn more about impactful topics within our community. With that in mind, I took a hard look at my library and queried other friends about their favorite books on the CIA and the world of intelligence to create an incomplete but workable list. There are a lot of great books out there on these subjects. This is the second list focused on CIA, traditional espionage, and foreign intelligence collection. For the first installment looking at books covering the Global War On Terror, see HERE. While the purpose of this platform isn’t to inspire the next generation of public servants, we are quickly learning this is a byproduct of W.O.E., which is great. So whether you are a student interested in a career at CIA or a washed-up dad wanting to relive the glory days, here are some great books to keep you entertained, informed, and educated. *We have added affiliate Amazon links for each book if you want to purchase directly from Amazon and support the site. If not, that's cool too. Modern Intelligence Collection In Books The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service, Henry A. Crumpton From serving in the pre-digital age in Africa to helping coordinate the CIA’s Predator drone programs, Henry A. Crumpton’s career in intelligence is carefully chronicled in The Art of Intelligence: Lessons from a Life in the CIA's Clandestine Service. While much has changed, Crumpton also underlines the basic tradecraft principles that have stood the test of time. This is a great primer on the world of intelligence and life as a C/O at the CIA, absent much of the bravado common in CIA memoirs. The Good Spy: The Life and Death of Robert Ames, Kai Bird A legend in the intelligence community, Robert Ames was credited with helping to heal the rift between Arabs and the West before he was killed in a bombing on the American embassy in Beirut in 1983. Intriguingly, Bird is a journalist who knew Ames as a child, and crafted this book from his firsthand experience with Ames as well as countless interviews with global intelligence professionals. Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters After the attacks on 9/11, the CIA received over 150,000 applications from Americans wanting to join the Global War On Terror’s espionage effort. Around 100 students were selected for Class 11, the first CIA training course convened after the darkest day in modern American history. In Class 11: My Story Inside the CIA's First Post-9/11 Spy Class, T.J. Waters, a Class 11 graduate, shares an insider view of a new generation of CIA Case Officers preparing for war. Of note, some inside CIA will roll their eyes at this recommendation, but it is the best insight I have seen on the training pipeline and specifically the long course at “The Farm.” Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda, Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton, & Henry R. Schlesinger Juxtaposed against the Cold War, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and evolving terrorist threats, Spycraft: The Secret History of the CIA's Spytechs, from Communism to Al-Qaeda is a never-before-seen look at the technology that makes espionage possible. Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson Intelligence collection is a morally ambiguous trade. In Fair Play: The Moral Dilemmas of Spying, James Olson, a CIA veteran, tackles the challenging moral and ethical challenges facing the modern intelligence community. Describing a lack of firm guidance from the Agency on what constitutes inappropriate tradecraft, Olson illustrates how that uncertainty hampers Case Officers in the field, making an already complicated and dangerous job even more perilous. I read this book while at CIA and found it thought-provoking and a must-read for anyone in the community. Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior, Ric Prado After fleeing war-torn Cuba as a child, Ric Prado served with US Air Force Pararescue before joining CIA and rising through the ranks of the CIA over a 24-year career. Having served in Central Asia, Peru, the Philippines, Korea, and numerous other classified locations, Black Ops: The Life of a CIA Shadow Warrior is Prado’s memoir of a life lived in the shadows. Prado also has several notable watches including the Blackwater Emergency and a Tudor Submariner. The Targeter, Nada Bakos Targeters are one of the most important and least understood career tracks at CIA, and this book provides some great insight. Joining the Agency as an analyst, Nada Bakos rose to the rank of Targeting Officer, playing a central role in unraveling the connections between 9/11 and Al Qaeda during the Global War On Terror. The Targeter is a powerful firsthand account of one woman’s story of selfless sacrifice and the incredible work being done by professionals within the intelligence community. The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, David Priess Every day, the President of the United States is handed a daily brief (PDB) summarizing important intelligence-related issues and events as well as potential threats to the United States. David Priess’s volume, The Book of Secrets - The History of the President’s Daily Brief, tells the history of what some call “The Book” and its influence on national security and geopolitics. Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, Michael V. Hayden In Playing to the Edge: American Intelligence in the Age of Terror, General Michael V. Hayden shares his experiences as the former leader of both the NSA and CIA, saying, “I bear no grudges, or at least not many, but I do want this to be a straightforward and readable history for that slice of the American population who depend on and appreciate intelligence, but who do not have the time to master its many obscure characteristics." This is a great primer on the intelligence community at various levels and deals with some of the issues related to the future of the IC. The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives, Ted Gup Ted Gup’s chilling and well-researched The Book of Honor: The Secret Lives and Deaths of CIA Operatives tackles the often untold stories of the people behind the 71 stars carved into a marble wall at CIA HQS, each representing an intelligence professional who lost their life in the line of duty. Many of these stories may be still classified, but I will note it was required reading for new recruits at CIA. Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw, Mark Bowden Mark Bowden, a legendary journalist and the author of Black Hawk Down, chronicles the violent rise to power and fall of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most legendary drug kingpin, in Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw. Beirut Rules: The Murder of a CIA Station Chief and Hezbollah's War Against America, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz In Beirut Rules, Fred Burton & Samuel Katz unpack Hezbollah’s war against America in the 1980s and the terror organization’s ultimately successful quest to kill William Buckley, a CIA Case Officer assigned to Beirut after the 1983 bombing of the American embassy in Lebanon that killed Robert Ames. The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, Douglas London In Douglas London’s The Recruiter: Spying and the Lost Art of American Intelligence, the 34-year veteran of the CIA describes his experience working in American intelligence both before and after 9/11, calling into question how the Agency has adapted and how it must continue to evolve. A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA, Duane R. Clarridge (Author) & Digby Diehl Another memoir from a seasoned CIA Case Officer, Duane R. Clarridge’s A Spy for All Seasons: My Life in the CIA is a behind-the-scenes account of the state of American intelligence from the point of view of the former Deputy Director of the CIA. The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture, Ishmael Jones The Human Factor: Inside the CIA's Dysfunctional Intelligence Culture is author Ishmael Jones’ plea for reform within the Agency, specifically citing intelligence shortfalls and other missteps caused by the culture of the world of intelligence. This book is highly critical of CIA, which is actually a good thing. If you are truly interested in learning about the organization, it's important to read positive and negative takes to get a full picture. Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China, David Wise Tiger Trap: America's Secret Spy War with China tells the story of China’s unseen espionage war against the United States, much of it perpetrated while American attention was focused on the Soviet Union. From double agents to cybersecurity, author David Wise paints a picture of a Chinese intelligence machine that is not to be underestimated. David Wise has some other great books on espionage including Spy- The Inside Story of How the FBI's Robert Hanssen Betrayed America. The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA, Liza Mundy Historically a male-dominated field, The Sisterhood: The Secret History of Women at the CIA tells the story of the incredible contributions made by women to the world of intelligence and national security. Of note, some of the best officers I worked with were women and this book tells some of their stories. Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History, Antonio Mendez & Matt Baglio A more in-depth look at the real-life story that inspired 2012’s Argo film starring Ben Affleck, Argo: How the CIA and Hollywood Pulled Off the Most Audacious Rescue in History is CIA Technical Officer Tony Mendez’s account of his role in smuggling six American hostages out of Tehran in 1979. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, Jack Devine & Vernon Loeb With over 30 years in the business of United States intelligence, Jack Devine finished his career overseeing the Directorate of Operations. Good Hunting: An American Spymaster's Story, is Devine’s overarching guide to the concept of spycraft, the combined set of tactics, techniques, and procedures utilized by CIA and other intelligence agencies. Inside the CIA, Ronald Kessler Ronald Kessler’s Inside the CIA is a rare officially sanctioned look inside America’s intelligence service, focusing on the Agency’s organization, mission, and accomplishments. If you’re looking for a primer on what the CIA is and how it operates, this book is an excellent place to start. Transforming U.S. Intelligence, Jennifer E Sims & Burton Gerber (Editors) Transforming U.S. Intelligence is an almost scholarly work assembling the insights of numerous contributors with firsthand experience in the world of intelligence. Based on learnings from the missing weapons of mass destruction in Iraq and critical missteps in the lead-up to 9/11, this book aims to describe how United States intelligence can learn from its shortfalls to be more effective in an uncertain future. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone, J.K. Rowling Early in my career at CIA, I focused solely on nonfiction thinking that fiction was a waste of time. That said, many intelligence and NatSec failures boil down to a failure of imagination. Feeding your brain with fiction like Harry Potter is a great way to teach yourself to think outside the box. The More You Know Separating fact from fiction when it comes to the CIA is challenging, with so much public perception around the world of espionage being inspired by Hollywood’s portrayals of Jason Bourne or James Bond. Targeted strikes, covert action, and high-stakes clandestine meetings do happen, and many are described within these volumes, but the realities facing intelligence professionals are often more subtle, nuanced, and intriguing. While this is not an exhaustive list, these titles represent an excellent jumping-off point for anyone hoping to hear firsthand stories from inside the United States intelligence apparatus. As they say, the more you know… If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: W.O.E. CIA Reading List Part 1 - The Global War On Terror *As a disclaimer, as Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. When you click on links to various books in this article and make a purchase, this can result in Watches of Espionage earning a commission. If you’re interested in these books and want to make a purchase using these links, we appreciate your support.
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: CIA Officer Explains Apple Watch Risks
Whether watch nerds like it or not, the smartwatch is here to stay. Apple sells more Apple Watches in a quarter than the entire Swiss...
Read MoreWhether watch nerds like it or not, the smartwatch is here to stay. Apple sells more Apple Watches in a quarter than the entire Swiss watch industry does in a year. Smartwatches like the Apple Watch and many Garmin models offer significant lifestyle benefits including fitness tracking, communication, navigation, and sleep monitoring. To the average person, being connected and having all of this data at all times is convenient. However, for CIA Officers and special operators who rely on anonymity to securely conduct clandestine operations, these networked devices are a counterintelligence vulnerability and a potential opportunity for exploitation by bad actors. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we share the counterintelligence risks of wearing Apple Watches and other smartwatches, using real-world examples to show how these connected devices can have deadly consequences. Enjoy episode eight of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MorePink Panthers - The Ultimate Luxury Watch & Diamond Thieves
A Balkan-Based Criminal Syndicate Leverages Intelligence Tradecraft To Steal Luxury Watches & Diamonds In Bond-Style Heists. Luxury jewel crime occurs on a spectrum and Ocean’s...
Read MoreA Balkan-Based Criminal Syndicate Leverages Intelligence Tradecraft To Steal Luxury Watches & Diamonds In Bond-Style Heists. Luxury jewel crime occurs on a spectrum and Ocean’s Eleven-style heists are generally figments of Hollywood screenwriters’ imaginations. However, one notable example exists: the “Pink Panthers,” a network of Balkan-based jewel thieves that operated with near impunity in the early 2000s, stealing an estimated $500M in diamonds, jewels, and luxury watches. The attacks spanned the globe including traditionally “safe” cities like Tokyo, Dubai, and Geneva. Pink Panthers during a heist at Wafi Mall in Dubai. The heist lasted minutes and the cars were later abandoned and burned to destroy DNA and other clues. The syndicate, reportedly founded by paramilitary veterans of the Yugoslav War, leverages tradecraft and precision that would rival a first-rate intelligence service, with swagger to match. In 2007, a Pink Panther cell drove two Audi S8s through the glass doors of the Wafi Mall in Dubai, down the marble walkways, and directly to a jewelry store. They disappeared minutes later. After a 2005 heist in St. Tropez, the team boarded an awaiting speedboat for a quick extraction, destination unknown. In 2013, the group even conducted a prison break in Switzerland by ramming the gate with a stolen van and placing ladders over the barbed wire, freeing a Bosnian member of the gang. These highly coordinated heists last only minutes and within hours the perpetrators are in another country. Many members of the Pink Panthers allegedly served during the Yugoslav War. Today, we explore the structure, creativity, tradecraft, and tactics that made the Pink Panther syndicate the most successful and bold international criminal organization in recent history, a legacy that continues today. What's In A Name? - The Pink Panthers Graff Diamonds in London was one of the Pink Panthers’ first high-profile targets in 2003. (Photo Credit: Graff) The “Pink Panthers” nom de guerre was coined by INTERPOL (The International Criminal Police Organization) after a brazen heist of Graff Diamonds in London in 2003 in which one of the assailants disguised as a VIP client, Milan Jovetic, escaped in an awaiting Ferrari. After his arrest in France, a blue diamond worth over $500 thousand was found in a face cream jar belonging to his girlfriend, a tactic used in a 1960s-era Pink Panther film starring Peter Sellers. You can’t make this stuff up. A luxury Ferrari used for an escape in the 2003 Graff Diamonds heist in London. Gentleman Thieves - Covert Influence The group's intelligence tradecraft extends to the media. The group conducts an effective influence campaign, an effort to develop a Robin Hood-like mystique as “gentleman thieves.” Several members have even given interviews and media appearances. Despite the speed and violence of action, most heists last mere minutes, the group is quick to note that it has only caused one death over the years despite the numerous operations. A self-described founding member of the group, Rajko Causevic, has remarked: “We were never violent. I am a thief, but a gentleman. We always made clear plans.” There are some indications the Balkans-based group bought their safety in Montenegro and Serbia under an implicit agreement they would invest the ill-gotten profits back into the economy, making them heroes at home. Items stolen from the luxury boutique of the Harry Winston in Paris. Watches are one of the many items targeted by the Pink Panthers. Born Out Of The Yugoslav Wars - Paramilitary Training According to most accounts, the group was born out of the Yugoslav Wars, a series of conflicts in the Balkans after the disintegration of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. One known prominent leader, believed by some to be the founder, Dragan Mikić, reportedly had military training and experience. With an estimated 500 to 800 members of varying levels of involvement, many are believed to be ex-Yugoslav soldiers, which explains the military-like precision and sophisticated tactics. Members are recruited to teams for specific operations based on their skill set and profile. Pink Panthers Tradecraft The Pink Panthers boast an impressive array of capabilities that rival any premier intelligence agency, including the Central Intelligence Agency. The group has a deep bench of diverse individuals to recruit from for specific operations, including document forgers, safe crackers, and members with advanced weapons and driving training. Unlike the mafia or a cartel, the structure is decentralized with no clear leader or organizational chart, complicating decades-long efforts by international law enforcement organizations to dismantle the group. Credit: Stratfor 2014 Heist Methodology - The Criminal Planning Cycle: Utilizing a framework developed by Stratfor, the “Criminal Planning Cycle” helps us dissect the tradecraft, methods, and tactics used by the Pink Panthers. $37M in jewels and watches were stolen from Harry Winston in Paris, France in 2007. (Photo Credit: Vanity Fair) Target Selection: Primarily focused on Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, the Pink Panthers chose targets with geographic and venue-type diversity. A jewelry store in the heart of Mayfair, a museum in Zurich, or a boutique in Tokyo nothing is off the table. When asked why he robbed banks, American bank robber Willie Sutton dryly remarked, “Because that's where the money is.” This ethos is what drove the Pink Panthers to steal luxury timepieces including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. That said, Pink Panthers are loot agnostic, focusing primarily on diamonds and other classic jewelry due to the value-to-weight ratio but also expanding into artwork. In 2008, the Pink Panthers reportedly robbed a Zürich museum, taking several paintings including Monet, Degas, and Vincent van Gogh, with an estimated value of $160M. Surveillance photos captured by law enforcement of Pink Panthers conducting pre-attack surveillance, including of a Rolex Authorized Dealer. (Photo Credit: 60 Minutes) Planning & Surveillance: The Pink Panthers devote significant resources to pre-attack planning and surveillance which can take months. Teams are typically composed of three to five individuals with complementary specialties and backgrounds, and most include at least one woman. With more than adequate funding, the Panthers dress the part, acquire “safe houses”, and steal luxury cars. Women members are often used to case the location, returning with recorded footage and hand-drawn sketches of the layout of the target. Targets are assessed for security but also with escape in mind. Creativity is encouraged, with escapes using everything from stolen luxury cars to boats to push bikes in Japan. Keenly aware of the investigative capabilities of law enforcement, the group uses cash for expenses and even reportedly false passports and license plates, demonstrating an impressive level of sophistication for the criminal element. The Pink Panthers use a mixture of profiles for both casing and the crime itself. Individuals arrested after Dubai mall heist. Deployment: To gain entry to the target facility, the teams use a mixture of disguise, creativity, and brute force. In May 2003, two members entered the Graff Diamonds store in New Bond Street, London, posing as wealthy customers dressed in suits and wigs to disguise their facial features. The Panthers will often use women and light disguises to make them seem less alarming. The Panthers have also cut through walls of neighboring stores to access the facilities during off hours. On the morning of 6 October 2007, a team of four was already waiting inside the Harry Winston store when the Paris boutique opened. They were disguised as construction workers, who had reportedly been working on the facility for weeks prior to the heist which resulted in $37M in luxury jewels and watches. Carlton Hotel, Cannes France heist, July 2013. A necklace worn by model Cara Delevingne days prior was included in the stolen goods, with an estimated value of over $88 million. Crime: Borrowing methodology from SpecOps, speed, surprise, and violence of action are the trademarks of a Pink Panther heist. At the right moment, a team member draws a concealed pistol and hammer, quickly directing the staff onto the ground and often using flex ties to restrain them. The perpetrator then proceeds to smash the glass cases and grab whatever is readily available. Another member remains at the front of the store to prop open the door and look out for a law enforcement response. Despite the brute force technique, store staff are rarely harmed, demonstrating a certain level of discipline and limiting lengthy sentencing when caught and arrested. An Alleged Pink Panther heist in Milan, Italy. Sales associates are flex-tied on the floor, a common tactic used by SOF and law enforcement. Escape: According to interviews with investigators and members of the group, the creativity and thought placed on escape and evasion is one facet of the heist that sets the Panthers apart from other networks. The Panthers reportedly select targets based on the ease of escape, exploiting access to thoroughfares and narrow alleyways to negate law enforcement pursuit. The teams often hand off the stolen goods to an awaiting member on a motorbike. The team then disperses using Vespa scooters, simple pedal bikes, luxury sports cars, and even a Hollywood-style speed boat escape from a coastal town in France. According to interviews, the goal is to depart the country within two hours. Diamond Quarter Antwerp, Belgium. (Photo Credit: Wiki Commons) Exploitation & Money Laundering: According to several accounts, the stolen items are brought back to the Balkans and then slowly couriered back into Europe to be sold on the black market. The Diamond District in Antwerp, Belgium, is the most common destination due to the proximity and large volume of diamonds passing through the city, at times up to 80% of all diamonds in the world. According to an interview with one of the black market dealers in the documentary Smash & Grab, the Panthers net 20-30% of the value of the goods. For additional information, see our previous Dispatch article, Watches as Tools of Money Laundering and Illicit Finance. Cash, diamonds, and watches seized from the Pink Panthers. Law Enforcement Efforts: The advanced tradecraft has baffled law enforcement agencies for decades and complicated efforts to prosecute the group. While several high-profile arrests have occurred, the structure of the Pink Panthers as a “network of teams” with no clear hierarchy makes dismantling the network difficult. Unlike the mafia or a cartel, there is no known boss or organizational chart, making it difficult to “cut off the head of the snake.” In fact, many participants may not even know they are working for the Pink Panthers but are instead loosely affiliated. When arrested, the group members operate under a code of silence or loyalty to the oath of Omertà. Vladimir Lekic was arrested and sentenced to eight years for his participation in a 2003 robbery in Frankfurt, Germany of $2.5M in watches and jewelry. The Future Of The Pink Panthers Large-scale heists attributed to the Pink Panthers have declined over the previous decade, with over 50 high-profile arrests throughout Europe and the Middle East. To gain entry to the European Union, Montenegro and other Balkan countries have reportedly cracked down on the Pink Panthers and increased cooperation with INTERPOL and other European law enforcement agencies. But the group has not disappeared and periodic heists continue, although some appear to be copycat-style attacks. While it is tempting to romanticize the Pink Panthers and give in to the narrative that they are robbing from the rich to give to the poor, the reality is international organized crime is a dirty business and it is impossible to separate jewelry heists from murder and narcotics and sex trafficking. That said, we believe it is important to spend time studying the darker sides of horology and the role timepieces and other jewelry play in illicit markets. Whether it’s George Clooney and Matt Damon in Ocean’s Eleven, Marky Mark and Charlize in The Italian Job, or the overly-complicated exploits of Arsène Lupin, every grown man fantasizes at one time or another about being an international criminal mastermind, a “gentleman thief” with equal parts panache and cunning. For the Pink Panthers, these Hollywood-style heists are a reality but come at a cost, forcing members to live in the shadows as fugitives, ever watchful of the prying eyes of international law enforcement. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Criminal Rolex Gangs and Traveling with Watches, Part I This newsletter has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreHey ChatGPT, What Is Watches Of Espionage?
We Ask For AI’s Take On W.O.E. & The Results Are Surprisingly Accurate Whether we like it or not, artificial intelligence or AI is influencing...
Read MoreWe Ask For AI’s Take On W.O.E. & The Results Are Surprisingly Accurate Whether we like it or not, artificial intelligence or AI is influencing and shaping the world around us. Utilized in intelligence collection and analysis, cyber security, customer service, marketing, and more, AI is increasingly becoming an aspect of everyday life, a potentially scary concept depending on the level of optimism in your worldview. It’s easy to think a niche topic area like W.O.E. is beyond the scope of this Skynet-style analysis, but the fact of the matter is any platform with a significant online presence provides more than enough information for a tool like ChatGPT to analyze, and even imitate. But how well can ChatGPT understand what W.O.E. is really all about? AI-generated image. To obtain a better grasp of modern AI’s capabilities while also having some fun in the process, we asked ChatGPT about “Watches of Espionage” including what we are, some of the tools we have designed for our community, and our YouTube Channel. We also asked for AI-generated images speaking to the nature of Watches of Espionage, some of which are placed throughout this article. The results of our queries were surprisingly accurate, though not perfect. We have well over a hundred long-form editorial articles in the Dispatch, coverage in established media outlets including Hodinkee, GQ, Esquire, and Coffee or Die, a growing YouTube Channel, as well as our website full of products, descriptions, and customer reviews. Collectively, that’s tens of thousands if not millions of data points, more than enough for a surprisingly decent synopsis. AI-generated image. So what’s the lesson here? If ChatGPT can instantaneously spit out a solid report on a niche content platform like W.O.E., how much do you think the infernal machine knows about you? What happens if someone amalgamates your Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn, or in a darker version, your private email inbox and iCloud to learn everything they need to know about you? We’re not conspiracy theorists, but it’s important to consider what personal information you’re putting out there. Hey ChatGPT, What is Watches of Espionage? ChatGPT: Watches of Espionage is a niche platform that explores and documents the intersection of watches and the world of espionage, intelligence, and covert operations. The platform, often found on social media (like Instagram), blogs, and other outlets, delves into the use of watches by spies, intelligence officers, and military personnel, examining how timepieces have been integral to their missions and identities. AI-generated image. Watches have long been a tool for operatives in espionage, as reliable and discreet timekeeping is essential for covert activities. The platform highlights stories of famous spies, historical events, and the specific watches associated with those individuals or operations. These timepieces might have particular tactical features—such as durability, water resistance, anti-magnetic properties, or special timing functions—that are useful for field operations. Some well-known watches frequently covered by Watches of Espionage are: Rolex Submariner: Favored by military divers and intelligence personnel, including famously worn by James Bond (though fictional). Omega Seamaster: Another watch associated with espionage due to its reputation for durability and precision. Seiko Divers: Known for their affordability and reliability, making them a practical choice for operatives in the field. The concept taps into both the practicality of watches in espionage and the allure of the mysterious, clandestine world of spies. What products does Watches of Espionage have? Watches of Espionage offers a unique line of products focused on the theme of espionage and tactical use, crafted for both watch enthusiasts and those with an interest in intelligence history. Their inventory includes: Watch Straps: The core of their offerings, these straps are inspired by military and intelligence themes, like the Five Eye Nylon Watch Strap, available in various colors and designs. The strap’s name is a nod to the "Five Eyes" intelligence alliance, and it’s built for durability with features like a custom stainless steel buckle and reinforced stitching. Watch Accessories: This includes items like the Explorer Canvas Watch Roll, designed to store multiple watches for secure transport. Hand-sewn in the USA from rugged canvas, it has four compartments and a parachute cord for a secure closure, embodying a practical design for traveling collectors. EDC (Everyday Carry) Items: Aimed at practical utility, this line features products like the Tactile Turn X W.O.E. Titanium Pen, which is TSA-compliant and comes with a bolt-action mechanism for smooth use. This collaboration with Tactile Turn combines functionality and style, inspired by tools carried by CIA operatives. Branded Merchandise: Their collection also includes branded items like beanies, hats, and small pouches, designed for fans of the brand to show their support subtly. Watches of Espionage’s products reflect a blend of style, ruggedness, and homage to the intelligence community, appealing to both watch collectors and those drawn to military aesthetics. ChatGPT, What is the Watches of Espionage YouTube Channel? ChatGPT: The Watches of Espionage YouTube channel is an extension of the popular "Watches of Espionage" platform, which delves into the relationship between timepieces and the world of espionage, covert operations, and military use. The channel, like its social media counterparts, focuses on content that explores the history, significance, and stories behind watches used by spies, intelligence officers, and other covert operatives. On the YouTube channel, you might expect content such as: Watch Reviews: Discussions on specific models, often those with a strong historical connection to espionage, intelligence work, or military operations, such as the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, or Seiko divers. Historical Case Studies: Videos that explore specific moments in history where watches played a role, including stories from Cold War spies, military operatives, or famous intelligence figures and the watches they wore. Interviews and Discussions: Conversations with experts in the fields of watches, military, and intelligence, discussing how certain timepieces were used in the field, their technical features, and their significance in real-world espionage. Exploration of Iconic Spy Gear: A broader look at not just watches, but other pieces of gear that might have been used in the world of espionage, tying them back to the tactical utility of watches. The YouTube channel likely builds on the intrigue and fascination that the Watches of Espionage brand has developed among watch enthusiasts, military history buffs, and people fascinated by the clandestine world of intelligence. The goal is to provide a deeper dive into the cultural and functional significance of these watches in covert operations. Final Thoughts: AI-generated image. As AI’s capabilities expand, so too should our understanding of and respect for its capabilities. From an intelligence standpoint, the use cases are numerous. But could AI replace W.O.E.? Could it spit out weekly articles on a range of topics? The short answer is that most media, and traditional legacy watch media, could likely be replicated by AI in the near future. That said, many of the stories we tell and issues we cover have not been talked about openly, let alone documented on the internet. While we are biased, niche topics like W.O.E. will likely be one of the last genres to be “replaced” by AI. If you are in the business of regurgitating marketing material for new releases… your days may be numbered. This Dispatch is intended to serve as a simple thought experiment or even a few laughs, but AI is no joke. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Esquire Profile: The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage'
Read MoreW.O.E. YouTube: Billy Waugh - The Watches Of A CIA & Special Forces Legend
In 2001, Special Forces icon Billy Waugh celebrated his 72nd birthday in the remote mountains of Afghanistan while working for CIA in the search for...
Read MoreIn 2001, Special Forces icon Billy Waugh celebrated his 72nd birthday in the remote mountains of Afghanistan while working for CIA in the search for Osama Bin Laden. While his age was unusual for the tip of the spear, this was far from Waugh’s first rodeo. From his service in Vietnam with MACV-SOG to fighting in the Global War On Terror with the CIA’s Ground Branch, Waugh was a larger-than-life character who became a legend in SpecOps and the Intelligence Community. In our new video on the W.O.E. YouTube Channel, we tell the story of Billy Waugh’s life and some of the watches he wore including a Seiko 6309, a Rolex GMT-Master, and a solid-gold Rolex President Day-Date. Enjoy episode seven of W.O.E. TV. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreA Russian Smartwatch-Enabled Assassination & US Army Apple Watch Warning
Ukrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the...
Read MoreUkrainian Intelligence Services used smartwatch data to assassinate a Russian naval commander during his morning jog. The US Army released a Counterintelligence warning to the US Military. Last week, the US Army issued a warning to Department of Defense (DOD) personnel on the counterintelligence (CI) risks of smartwatches with a social media campaign entitled, “What’s wrong with this picture?” with a photo of a soldier typing on a computer wearing an Apple Watch. It reads: “Smartwatches can transmit sensitive information. Don’t be an insider threat - Think before you use a smartwatch in the field or on deployment.” If you are a regular reader of W.O.E., this should come as no surprise. We have written about “CIA Officers and Apple Watches” (Read HERE) including the 2017 Strava fitness app heatmaps and threats from “Ubiquitous Technical Surveillance” or UTS—the collection and long-term storage of data to analyze and connect individuals with other people, activities, and organizations. The campaign appears to highlight hostile services leveraging smartwatches to access computer networks as well as the sensitivities of wearing them “in the field.” A former Russian submariner commander, Stanislav Rzhitsky was killed after assailants learned his movements from the Strava fitness app. Smartwatch Assassination As a real-world example of a hostile service leveraging smartwatch data to enable a kinetic operation, in June 2023, Russian submarine commander Stanislav Rzhitsky was shot to death while on an early morning jog in the southern Russian city of Krasnodar. According to Russian state-owned media, the assailant reportedly used Strava fitness tracker data to carry out the attack. Surprisingly, Rzhitsky maintained a public profile with the fitness tracker Strava tied to his real name, using data from his GPS-enabled Garmin Fenix 6X smartwatch to catalog running and cycling routes which regularly passed through a park where an unknown assailant ultimately shot him. The profile even contained publicly accessible pictures of Rzhitsky before and after workouts and even his shoe type, providing a valuable resource to the assassin for positive identification. While Ukrainian services denied involvement in the hit, Ukrainian Defense Intelligence did make a suspiciously detailed statement over Telegram shortly after the assassination: “The submariner was jogging in the ’30th Anniversary of Victory’ park in Krasnodar. Around 6 a.m., he was shot seven times with a Makarov pistol. As a result of the gunshot wounds, Rzhitsky died on the spot, Due to heavy rain, the park was deserted, so there were no witnesses who could provide details or identify the attacker.” According to press reporting, Rzhitsky was followed on his morning run by an individual on a bike into the 30th Anniversary of Victory Park. He was killed in a secluded area of the park in the early morning hours. Rzhitsky’s Garmin Fenix smartwatch was recovered at the scene. The submarine Krasnodar—commanded by Rzhitsky—was allegedly responsible for a 2022 missile strike killing Ukrainian civilians. (Photo Credit: USNI) If the attack was orchestrated by Ukrainian intelligence, the motive likely stems from a missile attack on the city of Vinnytsia in July 2022, which killed 28 people, including three children. Ukrainian media indicated the missiles were fired by a submarine called the Krasnodar which Rzhitsky commanded at the time. Of course, we have to be skeptical of all narratives from the Russian and Ukrainian press given the covert influence in this conflict. (Photo Credit: Strava) US Military & Smartwatches In recent years, there has been an explosion of US uniformed personnel wearing Apple Watches and other “wearables,” with many servicemen purchasing them on the open market and wearing them while in uniform. The health and physical fitness benefits are legitimate and can result in a more effective warfighter. The DOD has even gone as far as to issue Garmin Fenix 6S and other smartwatches in an “effort to help future leaders be better, faster.” (Ironically, this is the same watch worn by the Russian commander.) But the risks are real and according to an Army Criminal Investigation Division (CID) bulletin from June 2023, service members across the military received unsolicited smartwatches in the mail, devices that auto-connected to wifi and other nearby devices. According to the report, the devices included malware that “accesses both voice and cameras, enabling actors to access conversations and accounts tied to smartwatches.” A report from Kaspersky, a cybersecurity company, suggests that the accelerometer data that tracks the movement of your wrist can be analyzed to determine passwords and credit card numbers. June 2023 Army CID Bulletin New Apple Watch Series 10 The timing of the more recent statement is fortuitous. Apple just unveiled the Apple Watch Series 10 the same week, on the 10th anniversary of the original Apple Watch. While we won't rehash the updates, suffice it to say the device still has a microphone, cellular and Bluetooth capabilities, and updated software to collect biometrics and track your every move. Intelligence services around the globe were likely analyzing this release closely, in an effort to identify vulnerabilities for exploitation. According to publicly available data, an estimated 1.3 million Americans maintain a Top Secret security clearance and a total of 4.2 million people have access to classified information. Industry estimates suggest 10 to 20% of all Americans use a smartwatch or fitness tracker, which—if this percentage holds for members of the intelligence community and military—creates significant attack vectors to be exploited for pattern-of-life tracking and to attempt to access classified and Sensitive But Unclassified (SBU) networks. A Delta Force operator wearing an Apple Watch in Afghanistan in 2019. But I Am Not A Spy, Why Should I Care? Of course, most people will say, “I am not a super spy, why do I care if someone tracks me?” The 2023 Army CID report indicated the malware could access credit card information and potentially report that back to a home base to be exploited. Further, it doesn't matter if you are a Russian submarine commander or just a regular person. In 2022, Moriah Wilson, a 25-year-old elite cyclist, was tracked using Strava data and murdered in Texas by another woman who was involved with the same man as Wilson. After Wilson’s death, Strava reportedly added functionality obscuring start and end locations for fitness activities and further privacy-enhancing features, but the app still risks sharing significant information about a person’s location and routes that could be exploited by bad actors. What Can I Do About It? The simplest solution is to go analog. Don’t be a fool, use a real tool. Even the best state hackers (APTs) can’t hack a Seiko. Save the smartwatches for fitness-only activity and ensure your settings on the data are as restricted and “private” as possible. That said, we understand some W.O.E. professions require a GPS-enabled timepiece to effectively carry out specific tasks. In this case, we encourage you to explore some of the privacy-conscious models like Garmin that contain a “Stealth Mode” that (supposedly) disables tracking technology and a “kill switch” to delete all of your data. However, these functions are only as good as the provider, and Garmin has been the subject of several targeted attacks, including a 2020 ransomware hack where the company reportedly paid Russian cyber criminals $10 million to regain access to systems. If you work for an elite unit, make sure you pass this watch to your tech specialists to see if it really does what it claims to do. Given my background, I am always skeptical of technical solutions for technical problems… sometimes it's best to do things the old-fashioned way. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Officers and Apple Watches
Read MoreThe Dalai Lama, Watches, & Espionage
How A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of...
Read MoreHow A Spiritual Leader Became A Watch-Collecting Icon - It All Started With The Office Of Strategic Services We have discussed the operational role of timepieces in espionage and how they can be tools in the agent recruitment cycle—the transition of an individual from a target to a recruited asset (aka spy). Espionage is a human business and watches are transferable stores of value that have personal meaning, traits that make them effective tools of intelligence tradecraft. One of the earliest documented examples of this is with an unlikely figure, His Holiness the XIVth Dalai Lama. While there is no indication that the Dalai Lama was a recruited asset of the OSS or CIA, he was provided a watch as a tool to build a relationship and gain influence. OSS Officers Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan may have inadvertently spurred the Dalai Lama's love of watches. In 1943, Ilia Tolstoy and Brooke Dolan, both members of CIA’s predecessor, the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), presented the Dalai Lama with a Patek Philippe reference 658 on behalf of US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Reportedly, the purpose of the gift was to win the Dalai Lama’s support for a potential road through Tibet into China to assist the Chinese in fighting the Japanese. The watch clearly had meaning for the Dalai Lama and is something he still carries today. In contrast to the agent recruitment cycle, this operational gift was more of a rapport builder between “liaison,” a colloquial term to capture third-country intelligence services that work jointly with CIA. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe reference 658, gifted to him by FDR via a pair of OSS officers during WWII. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Tenzin Gyatso was born in 1935, ascending to his position as the Dalai Lama when he was only four years old. Having served as the Dalai Lama—the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism—for 84 years, the 14th Dalai Lama has lived what would by any standard be called an interesting life, with a common thread being his continued advocacy for the welfare and autonomy of Tibetan citizens. Part of a global effort to undermine communism, the US Government reportedly had a close relationship with the Dalai Lama and his brothers since the days of the OSS, providing a whole lot of money in return for the Dalai Lama’s continued maintenance of at least the idea of Tibetan sovereignty. Despite the covert influence of the United States on the region, Tibet’s whole sovereignty thing didn’t work out, and the Dalai Lama was ultimately exiled by the Chinese government in 1959 to India, where he still lives today and continues to serve as a seminal figure for Buddhists around the world. In more recent years, the Dalai Lama has also become a person of interest for watch enthusiasts, boasting a small but intriguing collection including some of the most storied names in Swiss watchmaking. In this Dispatch, we’ll take a closer look at the Dalai Lama’s history with horology including a watch closely tied to the world of international espionage. You can’t make this stuff up. A Rare Patek Philippe Reference & The OSS The Dalai Lama with his Patek Philippe 658 at an event in Washington, DC in 2016. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) Presented in greater detail by Eric Wind over on Hodinkee, the abridged version of the story of the Dalai Lama receiving a rare Patek Philippe goes that a pair of Office of Strategic Services (OSS) Officers, Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy, trekked across India, China, and Tibet on a diplomatic mission to meet the Dalai Lama and present him with gifts in an apparent effort to recognize Tibet’s autonomy within the region. OSS Officers Captain Brooke Dolan and Major Ilia Tolstoy during their 100-day trek to Lhasa, Tibet’s capital city. (Photo Credit: US National Archives) The impetus behind the mission was more complicated than simply meeting the Dalai Lama. The United States, embroiled in World War II, was also desperate to create an overland route connecting China and India to outfit the Chinese in their war against Japan. This path would have no choice but to pass through Tibet, and so Captain Brooke Dolan II, a soldier and explorer, and Major Ilya Tolstoy, a naturalist, explorer, and the grandson of Leo Tolstoy, ventured some 100 days by horseback through rugged terrain to Lhasa, Tibet’s remote capital. The Dalai Lama’s Patek Philippe Reference 658 is one of only 15 ever made. (Photo Credit: Hodinkee) When the OSS officers finally reached the spiritual leader, among their gifts was a Patek Philippe reference 658, one of only 15 ever made, and including a perpetual calendar chronograph, a minute repeater, and a split-seconds chronograph. What led FDR to select such an expensive Swiss watch remains a mystery, but what is certain is that the overly complicated gold pocket watch was intended to win favor with the Dalai Lama and receive his blessing for a road through the region. It was a tool of diplomacy and espionage. While there are numerous examples of intelligence officers using watches to influence or recruit sources, FDR’s gift of a Patek Philippe to the Dalai Lama has to be among the most high profile. It’s unclear whether the Patek Philippe served to foster the Dalai Lama’s well-established love of horology, but it probably didn’t hurt. Even more surprisingly, the Dalai Lama has been seen carrying the watch as recently as 2016, which is a flex of the highest level. The Dalai Lama & The Crown His Holiness wearing a Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038 on an elastic metal strap. In addition to his celebrated Patek Philippe, the Dalai Lama also has several Rolex models in his collection with a tendency to wear them on simple elastic metal bracelets like many other men in their 80s tended to do. One of His Holiness’s most worn Rolex models appears to be his Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038, a watch we are also willing to go out on a limb and say was probably a gift. Given the oversized elasticated metal bracelet and the Dalai Lama’s slender wrists, the watch almost always sits inside his wrist, making the otherwise ostentatious look of the gold Rolex more subtle. It’s less often seen, but there is also photographic evidence to suggest the Dalai Lama owns at least one other Rolex, a two-tone Datejust on its signature Jubilee bracelet. In Tibetan Buddhism, letting go of material possessions and excess in a quest for spiritual enlightenment is a core tenet, making the Dalai Lama’s penchant for luxury watches from Switzerland a bit surprising (contradictory?). However, considering the high probability His Holiness was gifted the watches, we are prepared to let it slide. Further, the Dalai Lama’s interest in watches appears to be deeper than the trappings of European luxury as His Holiness is also known to tinker with and repair watches for personal enjoyment. It’s hard to know the specific reference without a better shot of the dial, but the Dalai Lama’s other Rolex appears to be a two-tone Datejust. His Holiness The Watchmaker Various unconfirmed sources claim the Dalai Lama owns as many as 15 watches, with many of them products of his love for mechanical tinkering and watchmaking in particular. Despite his interest, the Dalai Lama does not appear to be an expert, however. In his book, Ethics for the New Millennium, His Holiness says: “I have always enjoyed repairing watches. But I can remember a number of occasions as a boy when, completely losing my patience with those tiny, intricate parts, I picked up the mechanism and smashed it down on the table. Of course, later I felt very sorry and ashamed of my behavior—especially when, as on one occasion, I had to return the watch to its owner in a condition worse than it was before!" An as-yet unidentified Valjoux 7751-powered chronograph on the Dalai Lama’s wrist. In addition to the Patek Philippe and Rolex models we mentioned, the Dalai Lama has also been spotted wearing a couple of different chronographs that appear to be powered by the Valjoux 7751 and therefore could have come from a variety of different brands. It could be this is a caliber he enjoys tinkering with, but that is pure speculation. A Love Of Watches Spawned By The OSS? It would be a leap to argue that the gift of a rare Patek Philippe reference to the young Dalai Lama in 1943 galvanized his apparent lifelong love of watches, but we'd like to believe the OSS played a role in creating one of history's most unexpected watch enthusiasts. In any case, the tie-in between His Holiness, horology, and espionage is intriguing, showing once again that no matter where you go, whether we’re talking about an elite special operator, a politician, an intelligence officer, or the leader of Tibetan Buddhism, passion for timepieces runs deep and across virtually all demographic qualifiers. It’s unclear whether the Dalai Lama reads the Dispatch or subscribes to the “Use Your Tools” ethos, but his enthusiasm for watchmaking is real. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces
Read MoreAnnouncement: W.O.E. YouTube Channel -Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling
We are excited to announce the establishment of the Watches of Espionage YouTube channel with our first video “Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t...
Read MoreWe are excited to announce the establishment of the Watches of Espionage YouTube channel with our first video “Sketchy Dudes Wear Breitling - We Don’t Make the Rules”. At Watches of Espionage, we are dedicated to exploring the intersection of military, intelligence, national security, and the world of horology. Whether we like it or not, many people can’t or won’t read in 2024, meaning video is an important platform for creating independent content without significant investments and subjective input from brands or other impartial players. There are now hundreds of watch-related creators on YouTube doing a great job influencing the masses with perfect hair, tailored hipster jackets, and ironic glasses, but we are here to do something different. The stories we tell in the W.O.E. Dispatch are produced for, by, and about our community. Our videos will follow suit, taking some of our favorite topics and presenting them in a novel and engaging way for the space. We’ve been interested in video for some time but were methodical to ensure we got it (mostly) right. Our first video delves into one of our favorite subjects, exploring the significant overlap between sketchy dudes and Breitling watches. While it sounds douchey, video-savvy friends of ours have informed us it’s important for y’all to like, subscribe, make comments, and hit the bell icon to receive notifications when we release new videos, which we hope to do every two weeks or so. We’ve been blown away by your support since starting W.O.E. and truly hope you enjoy our new YouTube channel. If you have any ideas for future videos or general comments, we are confident you’ll express yourself in the comments. If you're not into video, don't worry, our weekly Dispatch content will continue to be at the core of what we do. Thank you for the support, we are 100% community-funded and could not have done this without you. Happy Hunting, -W.O.E.
Read MoreA Navy SEAL Turned Mercenary & A Rolex Submariner
American Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex...
Read MoreAmerican Mercenary details the movie-like career of a SEAL Team Six assaulter turned gun for hire. The one constant throughout his career was a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 Working as a private intelligence collector, former Navy SEAL Daniel Corbett found himself in an unenviable situation. While visiting a source to collect information on a terrorist financier, the door flew open, and in walked plain-clothes Serbian police officers, one of which pointed a shaking pistol at his head. Corbett would spend the next 18 months in a Serbian jail, charged with possession and trafficking of explosives and illegal firearms, and even accused in the press of attempting to assassinate the Serbian President. But this was not Corbett’s first rodeo, a former SEAL Team Six assaulter who later became a “mercenary,” Corbett’s career began at a young age. He completed the arduous Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL (BUD/S) selection process at 18 years old and screened for Naval Special Warfare’s Development Group (SEAL Team Six) at 23. Corbett conducted multiple combat deployments with DEVGRU’s famed Red Squadron and participated in the highly publicized rescue of Captain Phillips off the coast of Somalia in 2009. A gifted linguist, Corbett then departed the relative comfort of the Teams for the murky world of private military contracting, spending years conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Africa, mercenary train-advise-assist operations in Yemen, and collecting private intelligence for unspecified clients in unspecified locations. A Rolex Submariner Reference 16610 From the SEAL Teams to private military contracting, one constant throughout his career was the presence of a Rolex Submariner on his wrist. Corbett is a self-described non-materialist, but the timepiece has deep meaning and operational utility. Initially acquired as a nod to the old school Frogmen who were issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners, the role of the timepiece would evolve during Corbett’s time as a contractor, serving as a tool to build relationships and to potentially use for escape and evasion. When he was arrested in 2017, Corbett signed for his Rolex and other possessions before being held in a Serbian jail, awaiting his fate. The pro-Russian press reported he was sent to Serbia to assassinate Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic, a convenient narrative in an election year. Remarkably, Corbett’s Submariner was returned to him when his case was unceremoniously dismissed. Corbett in Korean language school. Mercenary vs Contractor The term “mercenary” is overused to the point it’s almost meaningless. Generally agreed to describe “a professional soldier hired to serve in a foreign army,” mercenary is used by commentators to degrade private military contractors and by contractors to inflate their role as… well, just contractors. That said, mercenaries certainly exist and play a significant role in the world of gray zone conflict. While Corbett’s anti-piracy work is more accurately described as that of a contractor, the transition to Yemen and intelligence collection in Serbia arguably places him in the murky world of true mercenary work on behalf of a foreign government or non-state entity. Corbett details his experience as both a contractor and mercenary in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. We spoke with Corbett to learn more about his career and the role of the Rolex Submariner. San Diego, California - May 2007 After returning from a deployment to the Philippines with SEAL Team 5, Corbett attended a West Coast SEAL Reunion along with some older frogmen, many of whom were wearing their issued Tudor and Rolex Submariners. Corbett wasn’t a “watch guy” and previously had no idea about the SEAL-Rolex connection. He was enamored with the timepiece and the subtle but important meaning it had for his community. In our conversation, Corbett recalled, “I have always liked the culture of a symbol or object that if you are a part of that group, you know.” Like the patches he would later wear at SEAL Team Six, Submariner dive watches were part of the culture of his tribe. When shown the beat-up Subs on the wrists of veteran frogmen, the young SEAL thought to himself, “That’s fucking cool.” He needed one of his own. Shortly thereafter, Corbett visited the Fourtane Rolex Boutique at Fashion Valley Mall in San Diego. Walking in wearing board shorts and flip-flops, the sales associate skeptically agreed to let him try on a pre-ceramic Rolex Submariner reference 16610. When he held the Rolex, he quickly said “I am leaving the store today with this,” producing his Navy Federal Debit Card, flush with cash saved up from his last deployment. Green Team & SEAL Team Six Shortly after acquiring the Submariner, Corbett was invited to attend “Green Team,” Naval Special Warfare’s selection course for SEAL Team Six. While he doesn't recall wearing the Submariner during selection, he remarked that he rarely took it off for a simple reason—he hated winding it. The watch was an extension of himself and a part of his persona. After passing selection and arriving at Red Squadron, his eyes were opened to the broader world of watches. In the “regular” SEAL Teams, Corbett rarely encountered other Team Guys with high-end timepieces but at DEVGRU, watches were deeply ingrained in the unit’s culture. Corbett remembered, “I started seeing guys with Explorers, Pepsi GMTs, Submariners, and of course Panerais at Red Squadron. I started actually learning about watches, and there was a strong watch culture at the command.” Corbett explained that most of these timepieces were reserved for home or training, but others did wear them on operations. It was at this point that Corbett met fellow Red Squadron assaulter and dog handler, Will Chesney, who wore a Rolex Submariner on the Usama Bin Laden raid (read HERE). Afghanistan - 2009 For Corbett, the Rolex rarely left his wrist. During a 2009 vehicle interdiction operation in Afghanistan, a piece of shrapnel damaged the crystal after he shot a suspected suicide bomber at close range, causing the militant to drop a primed grenade. Let that sink in for a moment. In the midst of combat, Corbett used the green glow of his night vision goggles to check his Rolex, recognizing a deep scratch on the crystal. He was pissed, and he would have rather the shrapnel go into his arm instead of his sole prized possession. When he returned from deployment, he had the crystal replaced in Virginia Beach. Maersk Alabama - Indian Ocean - April 2009 On April 8th, 2009, four Somali pirates hijacked the US-flagged Maersk Alabama off the coast of Somalia, eventually taking Captain Richard Phillips hostage on the ship’s lifeboat. Corbett’s squadron was activated as a part of a rescue operation, jumping out of planes into the ocean before positioning themselves on the USS Bainbridge. Corbett’s Submariner also made the trip. While gearing up for the combat jump, another SEAL jokingly remarked, “You must be single!”, a comment that implied only a single SEAL would bring a Rolex on a combat jump. Corbett thought to himself that it was pretty cool he was wearing his Rolex on a combat jump into the Indian Ocean, but it wasn’t a conscious decision, he simply wore the watch everywhere. Within 4 days of the hijacking, snipers in Corbett’s squadron shot and killed the three Somali pirates, rescuing Captain Phillips and inspiring the 2013 film of the same name. SEAL wearing a Rolex Submariner during aerial training op out of the back of a MH-60S Sea Hawk helicopter deployed aboard the aircraft carrier USS George H.W. Bush, Aug 2011. (Photo Credit: Department of Defense) American Mercenary After a falling out with members of his command, Corbett made the difficult decision to leave SEAL Team Six and return to NSW, spending two years instructing junior SEALs in Close Quarters Combat, a skill set in which Corbett excelled. But he missed the action and after a chance encounter with a former SEAL Team guy, he was recruited into the gray world of private military contracting, initially conducting anti-piracy operations off the coast of Somalia, an assignment he found relatively mundane. Aden, Yemen - 2016 After returning to reserve SEAL Team 17 and completing sniper school, Corbett was offered another contract with Trident Group, initially working in Abu Dhabi training an Emirati Special Unit before deploying with them to a base in Yemen. At this point, Corbet arguably transitioned from contractor to mercenary, working for a foreign government conducting counterterrorism operations jointly with a third country, the United Arab Emirates partner force. Tradecraft - Cigarettes, Cash, & A Rolex Corbett completed intelligence training in the Navy, but his new calling required an adaptation in mindset —a transition from a member of an elite unit with all the resources and protection of the US government to a contractor operating as a singleton with no diplomatic protection. An early mentor explained the benefit of wearing a Rolex in nonpermissive environments as a potential bargaining chip and a store of value. It was a principle that Corbett summed up as “Marlboro Reds, Cash, and a Rolex.” If stuck at a checkpoint, he would initially offer a pack of cigarettes to smooth things over. If that didn't work, then cash. The Rolex was a last resort, but something he was willing to give up if his life were on the line. Describing this mindset, Corbett stated matter-of-factly: “My Rolex is my currency.” Belgrade, Serbia - 2017 In 2017, Corbett agreed to travel to Serbia as a singleton to collect information on a suspected terrorist financier for later use as blackmail. Corbet focused on “wiring the AOR,” building relationships with individuals close to the target. He developed a network of individuals in Belgrade, many of which had questionable associations. In this case, Corbett’s Rolex served as a tool to establish credibility and build relationships. Many of the social brokers he developed had access to significant funds and displayed their wealth through timepieces. Spending his nights at bars and clubs, the Rolex gave him a basic form of legitimacy and assisted in his relationship-building efforts. Corbett explained, “I could not have established legitimacy wearing a Casio, the Rolex was just enough to give me legitimacy when others wore AP (Audemars Piguet)” and other luxury watches. The Rolex was a tool. (Photo Credit: Buzzfeed) The operation was short-lived. Corbett’s 2017 arrest launched him on another mission, to gain his freedom from charges for crimes he claims he never committed. Corbett spent the next 18 months in jail, facing a 12-year sentence for trumped-up charges. The police seized Corbett’s few belongings including his cellphone, passport, Rolex, and cuff links, all of which he signed for. He was placed in a cell with a state-sponsored assassin, drug addicts, and various other individuals with questionable backgrounds. Without his Rolex, Corbett felt naked, experiencing a phenomenon over the first few months of his imprisonment that he called “phantom Rolex,” often shaking his wrist expecting to feel the reassuring weight of the watch that never came. Local Tabloid: “SEAL is ready to settle. To discover whom I came to kill. Just save my head” For months Corbett had little insight into his fate, with periodic court visits separated by months with limited contact with the outside world. In July 2018, his lawyer was killed in a gang-style shooting, something that Corbett insists was unrelated to his case. Throughout his confinement, he was confident that the government had no case but concerned that he was caught up in inescapable political intrigue. Fully prepared to spend 12 years in jail, Corbett developed friendships with many of the inmates. Corbett leaving the courthouse post-trial. On June 19th, 2019, Corbett was acquitted of all charges and unceremoniously told to leave the country. He returned to the jail to get his belongings and during out-processing, he was handed a zip-lock bag with his passport and—unbelievably—his Rolex Submariner. He was skeptical that it may have been replaced with a fake but was able to confirm it was indeed his Rolex, recognizing the scratches from over a decade of wear. He immediately slipped the watch back on his wrist and after a short stop at the Customs Police Station was free to leave. Falling back on his network of contacts, he spent a night in a hotel owned by the Hells Angels and left the country the next day. Arizona - 2024 After being released from prison, Corbett returned to the US without fanfare but with an extensive list of bills and expenses from being off the grid for 18 months. Corbett quickly returned to contracting, taking an unspecified gig in South America (he refused to elaborate). The Rolex remains one of his sole prized possessions and remains on his wrist not only as a tool but also as a reminder of his incredible Hollywood-like experiences to date. American Mercenary Corbett has channeled his experience into instructing weapons and tactics for the Sentient Shooting Group. After much consideration, Corbett decided to document his experiences in the newly released book, American Mercenary, The Riveting, High-Risk World of an Elite SEAL Team Operator Turned Hired Gun. While we like to make fun of SEALs writing books as much as the next guy, Corbett’s story is not another SEAL book. American Mercenary provides a first-hand look into the murky world of Private Military Contracting, private intelligence collection, and mercenaries. Whatever is next for Corbett, we can be confident his Rolex Submariner will be on his wrist. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: Trading a Rolex to Get out of a Sticky Situation - Myth or Reality?
Read MoreThe Watches of Hamas, ISIS, & the Taliban
Is an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists”...
Read MoreIs an Obscure Islamic Digital Watch The New Choice Of Terrorists & Non-State Actors? We once called the Casio F91W the “Preferred Watch Of Terrorists” based largely on its associations with Usama bin Laden who was often photographed wearing the attainable Japanese digital watch before his impromptu meeting with SEAL Team Six in 2011. However, recent photographs of leaders of prominent terrorist organizations may indicate a changing tide in the arena of tool watches of terror. The watches are produced by a brand called Al-Fajr, which is based in Saudi Arabia and known for its collection of what it calls “Islamic” watches and clocks that have functions specific to Islam including prayer time alarms and the ability to determine Qibla direction. We have written extensively about politicians and world leaders using timepieces as subtle communicative objects, and terrorist leaders are no different. The price is modest, ranging from sub-$100 to $300, marking an affordable option for the supposed pious individuals, many of which have access to extensive sums of money. Siraj Haqqani, seen here wearing an Al-Fajr watch, is the Taliban’s Interior Minister in Afghanistan’s post-2021 government. While the associations are likely unintended, the brand’s roots and Islamic functions have made the brand the new watch of choice for several leaders of prominent terror organizations including but not limited to Hamas, the Islamic State, and the Taliban. *To be very clear, this article is not a condemnation of Al-Fajr or Islam, just an observation of the tools worn by those at the tip of the (terrorism) spear. Also, coverage does not equal endorsement, each of these groups is designated as a Foreign Terrorist Organization (FTO) by the US Department of State. Hamas Assassinated Hamas leader Ismail Haniyeh wearing an intriguing digital Al-Fajr Islamic watch. The impetus for this article stems from the events of July 31st, 2024, when the political leader of Hamas, Ismail Haniyeh, was assassinated in the Iranian capital of Tehran. In recent photographs preceding his assassination, which was reportedly carried out by Israeli assets who placed an explosive device in a guesthouse in which he was supposed to stay, Haniyeh wore an Al-Fajr Islamic watch, marking one of our first interactions with the brand. As with all politicians or world leaders, it is safe to assume this Islam-specific watch was also worn to convey a message, one that is not exclusive to the departed Hamas leader. Read about watches worn in the Israel-Palestine conflict HERE. ISIS ISIS Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi wearing an Al-Fajr watch in 2014. Former Islamic State Emir Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi made one of his few public appearances in 2014 when he delivered a sermon at the Great Mosque of al-Nuri in Mosul, Iraq. Press reporting was quick to note the steel watch on his right hand, speculating that it was potentially an expensive Rolex or Omega “Seafarer.” (Of note, there is no Omega “Seafarer”.) This would have been notable in itself; however, it appears the watch is another example of an Al-Fajr Islamic watch being worn by a prominent terrorist. Further, he was also wearing the watch on his right hand, which some believe is in line with Islamic tradition. ISIS maintained a sophisticated PR and media wing that could rival any nation-state, so it stands to reason that significant thought was put into al-Baghdadi’s watch before this recording of one of his few public appearances, but of course, this is simply speculation. Taliban Mullah Yaqoob, the Taliban’s Defense Minster, photographed in 2024 wearing a general’s military uniform and a gold-tone Al-Fajr Islamic watch. Anointed the Taliban’s Defense Minister in the wake of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, Mullah Yaqoob was recently photographed wearing a military uniform complete with the rank of general and another, slightly different watch from Al-Fajr with a gold-tone case. As was the case for Ismail Haniyeh, choosing a watch produced by a brand based in the Middle East with Islam-centric functionality serves two-fold, first acting as a legitimate tool for a practitioner of Islam and second as an element of propaganda intended to showcase the ingenuity and technical manufacturing capabilities of the broader Islamic world. When A Watch Is More Than Just A Watch As we’ve often discussed with political leaders and other globally impactful individuals, a watch often serves as far more than its core timekeeping functionality may suggest, instead acting as a symbol of power, ingenuity, and/or unity within certain communities. For leaders of terrorist organizations to wear watches designed with Islam in mind especially when in the public eye demonstrates an awareness of the importance of media, propaganda, and influence, once again demonstrating that it’s never just a watch. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. Read Next: CIA Analysis of Foreign Leaders’ Timepieces *Featured Image Credit: Claire Harbage/NPR
Read MoreIstanbul: Shopping For Vintage Watches, Spy Cameras, & Cold War Artifacts
Istanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most...
Read MoreIstanbul is one of the espionage capitals of the world, so it’s no surprise you can find spy artifacts for sale in the world's most famous bazaar. It’s difficult to write about Istanbul without falling into cliches, but there is a palpable romantic mystique and energy in the city on the Bosphorus. This is especially true in the Grand Bazaar where culture, both genuine and contrived, is on full display. That said, when I visit covered markets in the Middle East, rarely am I buying, maybe a trinket to bring back to the kids, but that’s it. Aren’t these just overpriced shops geared towards tourists? But this trip was different, I spent hours exploring the deepest corners of the Grand Bazaar and discovered a unique vintage Tudor Oyster Prince, two Minox “spy” Cameras, and a Cold War era Protona Minifon watch, which contains a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations. Istanbul, July 2024 Earlier this month, I visited the Grand Bazaar on a mission to acquire a “super-clone” counterfeit Rolex, the subject of a previous Dispatch (read HERE). Walking through the vast covered market, a local friend could tell I had the “been here, done this” look and offered to show me the Antique Market, situated in the hall of Cevahir Bedestan. What I found was a series of stores with vintage collectibles, real watches, and a surprising amount of military and intelligence memorabilia—all things I like. The Old Bazaar is by no means a hidden secret, but in an area stretching 64 streets and over 4,000 stalls, it’s not exactly a place you stumble on. I visited the Bazaar numerous times over 20 years and never saw it. It’s a far cry from the more trinket-focused main avenues most tourists pass through. Istanbul - A City Of Espionage Istanbul is a remarkable tourist destination, complete with rich culture, tasty cuisine, and historical sites from centuries of different ruling empires. But, below the surface of the 15-17 million tourists visiting the city each year are more sinister travelers: spies, assassins, and individuals who traffic in arms and illicit antiquities. “If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.” – attributed to Napoleon Bonaparte For the same reasons this quote rings true, the city formerly known as Constantinople could also be described as the espionage capital of the world. Strategically located at the intersection of Asia and Europe, Istanbul is a short flight from London, Moscow, and Tehran. Turkey borders many hotspots including Iraq, Syria, and Iran, and is in direct proximity to the conflicts in Ukraine and Israel. While Ankara is the capital, many nations, including the US, maintain robust diplomatic missions (i.e. embassies and consulates) along the Bosphorus. Embassies and consulates mean spies. A History Lesson You can’t mention espionage and Istanbul without discussing James Bond. In From Russia with Love, 007 works to retrieve a Soviet cipher machine from Tatiana Romanova, and in Skyfall, Daniel Craig’s Bond conducts a high-speed chase through the Grand Bazaar. The backdrop of Istanbul makes for an exciting setting, but this connection is rooted in real espionage. Ian Fleming himself was a real intelligence officer and reportedly traveled to Istanbul in 1955 to attend an Interpol conference as a member of the Scotland Yard delegation. More recent examples of Istanbul serving as the front lines for the Great Game are numerous, and many of them have ended up on the front pages of newspapers. This past year Turkey arrested a network of individuals with reported ties to Mossad who were tasked with collecting information on Palestinians in Turkey. In 2018, Saudi intelligence officers murdered a critic of the Kingdom Jamal Khashoggi in the Saudi consulate in Istanbul. Iranians have gotten in on the action, with a MOIS assassination of former Iranian cybersecurity official turned regime critic Mas’ud Vardanjani in 2019. These are just the publicly available incidents. MQ-1B Predator from the 414th Expeditionary Reconnaissance Squadron 2012, at Incirlik Air Base, Turkey (DOD) The United States In Turkey The United States maintains a significant overt security presence in the country. According to Wikipedia, Incirlik Air Base Air Base houses over 1,400 US DOD personnel, 39th Air Base Wing (39 ABW), and "up to'' 50 B61 nuclear bombs, ie tactical nuclear weapons. According to press reporting, Turkey was used as a base for the “Syrian Train and Equip Program” that supported Syrian opposition forces, a program acknowledged by former President Barack Obama. Turkey was a part of the F-35 joint strike fighter program until it was removed in 2020 after the acceptance of the S-400 Russian-made air defense system. “The Great Game” is often used to describe the intelligence war fought between nation-states and using this analogy, Istanbul is the playing field. Turkey itself maintains a robust intelligence service, MIT/TNIO, that is considered on par with many Western services. ISIS member looting artifacts and heritage sites in Syria/Iraq, 2015. Illegal Antiquities Trade In 1983, Turkey passed a law prohibiting the trade and export of antiquities, but that hasn’t prevented the country from becoming a hub for illicit antiquities trade, most notably artifacts looted and sold by the Islamic State during the caliphate in Iraq and Syria in the 2010s. Far from the tourist shops in Istanbul, the southern city of Gaziantep is widely understood as the hub for this activity, the initial sale point before entering the wider antiquities market. All this to say, it’s no surprise that one can find interesting and highly collectible espionage artifacts in Istanbul. Spy Gear & Watches - Shopping In Istanbul Tudor Oyster Prince - Onder Vintage Watches - Stall No. 172 Walking into the Old Bazaar, my first stop was one of the few (legitimate) watch stores. In contrast to the fancy boutiques north of the old town, the windows are lined with hundreds of vintage timepieces, everything from Rolex and Omega to Doxa and Hamilton. For the most part, the vintage watches are “real” although many of them had significant replacement parts and refinished dials, likely a product of shotty service vs an attempt to deceive the buyer. Several stores had Arabic-branded dials, but without clear documentation or provenance, a purchase would be reckless. I started sending pictures to my friend Ross Povey of Tudor Collector and he provided feedback on each watch in real time. Many were a hard pass due to condition, but then I came across a vintage mid-1970s Tudor Prince Oysterdate with an integrated bracelet and a two-tone dial and chapter ring. There was something about the watch that spoke to me because it wasn’t within my wheelhouse. Yes, I love Tudors of Espionage (T.O.E.s), but that is generally synonymous with tool watches. The dainty 38mm dress watch with an integrated bracelet just isn’t typically my style. Mid-1970s Tudor Oyster Prince The condition was mediocre, with a bent bracelet link, but the price was right, about 1/3rd of the price in the UK according to Ross. The idea of spontaneously buying a watch, in one of the world's oldest bazaars was too good to pass up. It wasn’t without risk, but it was a risk worth taking. The first rule of negotiating at a bazaar is don't be thirsty. I thanked the shop owners and left, but I returned a couple of hours later and bartered the price down a few hundred dollars, paying in crisp $100 bills for the final push. Minox Spy Cameras - Minyatür - Stall No. 240-241 Next Stop was Minyatür, the most interesting antique store I found during my time in Istanbul. The small store is packed wall to wall with vintage oddities, including a significant selection of militaria and nautical items. But what caught my attention were the Minox subminiature cameras in the window, labeled “Spy Cameras.” Developed in Germany in the late 1930s, the various evolutions of the Minox camera were used by several intelligence services, including the CIA and the KGB during the Cold War. The miniature size, 50+ image capacity, and high-resolution lens made it ideal for clandestine photography, most notably to photograph documents. Minox was issued to and used by several notable spies, including convicted KGB spy John A. Walker, Jr. I spoke with the owner, Haluk Yedek, a second-generation merchant. His father opened up the shop in 1962 with Haluk taking the reins in the mid-1990s. The cameras themselves were more expensive than what could be found online, and while Haluk was willing to come down some, it was clear we had reached his lowest point. I made a final cash offer on a Minox B from 1958-1969 and a Minox C from 1969-1978. The condition was overall good. It wasn’t quite new old stock, but not far off. Haluk Yedek, a second-generation antique dealer. As I left the shop, I couldn't help but wonder about the path these items took over the past half-decade from Germany to Istanbul. Unfortunately, Haluk couldn't recall where he purchased them, saying that most items came from locals and estate sales. Hanhart Protana “Spy Watch” - Takara Vintage Watches - Stall No. 191/191 The final stop was Takara Vintage Watches at stall No. 191/192. As I entered the market, I noticed a beat-up Protona Minifon “spy watch” in one window. Probably one of the greatest examples of “spy gear,” the “watch” contained a microphone to surreptitiously record conversations during the Cold War era. The case is perforated and a cord runs out of the 9 o’clock up the wearer's arm to the tape recorder. The “watch” itself does not keep time and the movement has been removed to make space for the microphone. The condition was poor, but I couldn't help myself. Interestingly, a recent exhibition from Turkey’s National Intelligence Organization (MIT) displaying espionage artifacts revealed that MIT indeed used several wristwatches with recording devices for “various operations.” Had the watch been issued by MIT and somehow ended up in the souk? Probably not, but it was too intoxicating to pass up. Another small stack of crisp hundred dollar bills left my hand to the all too happy merchant. It was a pleasure doing business. Istanbul Airport Arriving at the Istanbul airport departure terminal, I was a little nervous. In my carry-on were 5 watches (one with a microphone embedded) and two spy cameras. While not prohibited items, it would be awkward to explain during secondary customs or security questioning. “I am a former CIA Case Officer and I run an online journal about watches and espionage” would likely raise some eyebrows. Further, I knew that the Turkish intelligence services were well-respected and had capabilities that matched that of our peer adversaries (Russia and China). While I am generally not concerned about security while traveling, I did ask several friends for contacts in the US Embassy “just in case.” To my relief, the customs process was uneventful and the flight to London was a breeze. Richmond, Virginia - July 2024 Back home, the Minox cameras have been added to the shelf in my office and sit next to other oddities collected over decades of world travel. As I write this, the Tudor Oyster Prince taps on my laptop, keeping perfect time. These items are talismans, mementos of my time in Istanbul, and physical representations of the people I met and the experiences I had. Their value is not monetary but derived from the human element, the true source of intrigue behind timepieces, at least for me. If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: The Real Spy Gadget Watches of the CIA, KGB, MIT and German Intelligence *This article has been reviewed by the CIA's Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information.
Read MoreEsquire Profile: The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage'
Watches of Espionage was recently profiled by Andrew Harrison for Esquire's "The Big Watch Book." The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage' The Instagram account...
Read OnWatches of Espionage was recently profiled by Andrew Harrison for Esquire's "The Big Watch Book." The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage' The Instagram account and website has become a runaway hit by revealing the surprising links between luxury timepieces and spycraft. One detail remains classified. The identity of the former CIA officer who runs it by Andrew Harrison Which watch would you choose to wear on the day you die? It’s not a question that many of us face too often. But then our day’s work seldom involves flying in secret by Black Hawk helicopter from Jalalabad in eastern Afghanistan to the Pakistani city of Abbottabad, there to locate and kill Osama bin Laden. Will Chesney was the dog handler with SEAL Team Six, the US special-forces unit selected to carry out “Operation Neptune Spear” in 2011. His chances of being shot down by Pakistan’s air defences en route or killed by an explosion in bin Laden’s compound were, he calculated, high, for Chesney and his dog Cairo were tasked with locating IEDs on the compound perimeter. So for this operation only, Chesney put aside his workaday digital and wore his prized Rolex Submariner instead. It was a special watch, reference 14060, engraved with the SEALs’ “red man” logo. Rolexes and Tudors had been engrained in SEAL culture since Vietnam; Chesney had bought his own watch when he passed the infamously harsh selection process to join Team Six. It was, by certain measures, impractical for the mission. But what exactly, he reasoned, was he saving it for? “I thought it would be fitting to wear the watch on that operation since it was my gift to myself for making it there,” he would say later. “I figured we wouldn’t be making it back so I might as well die with it on.” But they got their man, Chesney didn’t die and neither did Cairo. When Chesney told this story — of how the two would later be presented to President Obama, how Cairo would help him rehabilitate after he was seriously wounded in a grenade attack in Afghanistan in 2013, how Chesney commemorated his canine partner in the book No Ordinary Dog after Cairo died of cancer in 2015 — he told it to Watches Of Espionage. (Read the full post, it’s fascinating.) Launched in February 2021 by a former CIA intelligence operative with an itch for timepieces, the Watches Of Espionage Instagram feed has gained some 130,000 followers and its website has a cult audience unlike anything else in the horological universe. “WoE” readers range from hardcore watch aficionados who want to know exactly why SEALS love Panerai and how Delta Force guys get their custom Breitlings; to fans of the vicarious military experience, from the knowledgeable to what you might call the Gareth-from-The-Office demographic; to another, more select, harder-to-reach group: anonymous men who do anonymous things in the service of their country. They might not be allowed to talk about what they’ve done — many a WoE post ends with the words, “This has been reviewed by the CIA’s Prepublication Classification Review Board to prevent the disclosure of classified information” — but they want to communicate their watch lore to others in the know, and maybe leak a little to the rest of us. WoE is both their community centre and a window into their world. Continue Reading: The Mysterious Story Behind 'Watches of Espionage'
Read OnModern Navy SEAL Watch Culture - GBRS Group
Travel Pouch And Challenge Coin - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Modern Navy SEAL Watch Culture - GBRS Group and Watches of Espionage Collaboration We have...
Read OnTravel Pouch And Challenge Coin - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Modern Navy SEAL Watch Culture - GBRS Group and Watches of Espionage Collaboration We have written extensively about the history of Navy SEALs and watches. From Tudor Submariner 7928’s issued in Vietnam and Seiko 6309-7049’s during the Cold War days to the modern day Digital Tool Watches of the legendary G-Shock. In present day Naval Special Warfare, watch culture is strong and many “Team Guys” have high end tool watches, including Rolex, Breitling, Panerai, Tudor, Omega, Bremont and various other timepieces. The reason is simple. Many of the modern day “tool watches” were originally designed for maritime use, and specifically as military dive watches. The predecessors of the modern Frogmen were the intended end user for the tool watches of the mid-20th century. Wearing these pieces in the present day is a nod to those who came before, the forefathers who developed the fieldcraft and tactics employed today. In the culture of Intelligence and Special Operations heritage and history is important. We honor those who paved the way for our trade. Original UDT/SEAL issued Tudor Submariner ref. 7928 (James Rupley) To the outsider, modern day SEAL watch culture can be difficult to comprehend. Why would a SEAL with a limited government salary spend that much money on a watch? The idea seems to contradict the practical nature of SOF, which favors function over everything else. In preparation for the GBRS-W.O.E. fundraiser for Third Option Foundation, we asked former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley to give a Rundown of their personal experience with watches and watch culture in the SEAL Teams. As stated by former Navy SEAL and co-founder of GBRS Group: “It’s a part of the culture and tells a lot about the wearer of that particular piece. The cost isn’t as important as the backstory or the sentimental value of a piece and the story you both share together.In the military you are issued particular watches, most get a standard watch like a G-Shock, easy to operate and can withstand almost anything that the user can. As we got older it became custom to upgrade your issued watch for a more luxury watch as a statement piece.As you hit certain goals and milestones in life, you would add a timepiece to remember the occasion or that period in your life. It was customary in the SEAL Teams to wear a Rolex at a certain stage in your career, you treated that watch just like it was a hundred dollar G-Shock, you did everything in it.It was always a funny sight in a chow hall overseas, all the guys have long hair and beards, covered in dust from the helicopters, absolutely filthy and still have on a Rolex. There is a cult following around watches that plagues a lot of us.” W.O.E.-GBRS Group Collaboration - Third Option Foundation Fundraise Earlier this year we approached GBRS Group about a possible collaboration for charity. Cole and DJ agreed without hesitation and were eager to support Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC). The relationship between Naval Special Warfare and the CIA is close, particularly for the paramilitary officers who recruit heavily from the SEAL Teams. “TOF provides funding to the Agencies Paramilitary officers, a lot are former colleagues, and suffer severe injuries while working with that organization. The Third Option Foundation bridges the gap and supports those still in the shadows that never receive recognition for their sacrifices. As a small way to say thank you, we donated the last of our AOR1 uniforms to be used in making these travel cases. The funds raised support a fantastic group of people who truly deserve it. If you’re a watch enthusiast, you’re gonna want this for your collection.” Thank you to everyone who made this possible. Please consider a donation to Third Option Foundation to support the men and women at the tip of the spear. For additional information on Navy SEAL Watches: A Navy SEAL’s Rolex Submariner On The Osama Bin Laden Raid SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle The History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting
Read OnThird Option Foundation Fundraise - GBRS AOR-1 Watch Pouch and Challenge Coin
We are happy to announce the release of a special edition watch pouch and challenge coin in partnership with GBRS Group. The pouch is constructed...
Read OnWe are happy to announce the release of a special edition watch pouch and challenge coin in partnership with GBRS Group. The pouch is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by GBRS co-founders and former Navy SEALs Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley. Each order includes a W.O.E.-GBRS challenge coin. $40 of every purchase will be donated directly to Third Option Foundation, a nonprofit organization supporting the CIA’s paramilitary officers of the Special Activities Center (SAC). We expect to raise over $20,000 and will provide proof of the donation once the fundraiser is complete. Cole and DJ with donated uniforms, Panerais on the wrist. Overview: This release is an updated version of one of our best selling products, the W.O.E. Travel Pouch and challenge coin. Made in the USA, the single watch case is durable, compact and functional, and honors our community with subtle accents. Like a great watch, the case is a tool, made to be used and to last decades. The GBRS AOR-1 case has an updated card with red trim and the GBRS Old-English “g” is on one side of the watch card and the back of the watch case. AOR-1: The case flap keeper is constructed with repurposed issued AOR-1 camouflage uniforms worn by Cole and DJ. AOR-1 was introduced in 2010 for Navy Special Operations and was developed for desert/arid environments. The pattern has been used widely throughout the Middle East and Africa. DJ wearing AOR-1 camouflage during free fall training. GBRS Group: GBRS Group is a veteran-owned, Tier 1 training and services organization committed to imparting critical skills and real-world experiences to end-users in military, federal, state and local special operations units. GBRS Group was founded by Cole Fackler and DJ Shipley, two former Navy SEALs who served in NSW Development Group, the Navy’s Tier 1 Special Mission Unit. Cole deployed overseas with NSW. As previously discussed in the Dispatch, Naval Special Warfare (NSW) has a long history with timepieces. Since the early 1960’s, frogmen have utilized tool watches including Tudor, Seiko, G-Shock and various other dive watches. Today, NSW continues this tradition with a strong culture of high end tool watches, including Panerai, Rolex, Tudor, Bremont and various other timepieces. Third Option Foundation: The name refers to the motto of CIA's Special Activities Center: Tertia Optio, the President’s third option when military force is inappropriate and diplomacy is inadequate. Third Option Foundation is dedicated to providing comprehensive family resiliency programs, working behind the scenes to quietly help those who quietly serve. “You will probably never know the names of these silent heroes who defend our safety and freedoms in the most distant corners of the world. They’re often the first in and the last to leave many conflicts around the globe. For decades, the operators of CIA's Special Operations units have served and sacrificed in quiet anonymity. Particularly in the years since 9/11, this small group, along with their families, has borne an unprecedented burden in the fight to protect our nation. The nature of their service means they and their loved ones cannot seek the support or relief available to military service members and their families. Third Option Foundation is the only organization that fills this gap, by providing crucial survivorship assistance and resiliency programs to heal the wounded, help the families of those we have lost, and support those who are still serving. “I was the commander of a unit that, within the span of about 18 months, sustained a number of casualties of operators killed in action overseas. There were more than a dozen children who were suddenly without fathers, and wives who had lost their husbands. As we were flying across the country notifying the families, we saw just how significant the need was for those family members for a safety net, for support and understanding. We decided to create an organization to address the really unique needs of our agency’s Special Operations community that weren’t being met. — Anonymous, Co-Founder of Third Option Foundation” At W.O.E., we are passionate about serving those who serve us and this is at the core of who we are as a business and community. We believe that doing good is good business and it would be hypocritical of us to not give back to our community. We will continue to be transparent about our support. *Photos by James Rupley and GBRS. **W.O.E. has no affiliation with Third Option Foundation and this fundraiser is not officially endorsed by Third Option Foundation. THIRD OPTION FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) TAX-EXEMPT NATIONAL NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.
Read OnThe History Of Casio G-Shocks And The US Military
Forty years have passed since the introduction of the Casio G-Shock in 1983. And while the basic formula behind the world’s most durable watch has...
Read OnForty years have passed since the introduction of the Casio G-Shock in 1983. And while the basic formula behind the world’s most durable watch has remained largely unchanged since the legendary DW-5000C first hit store shelves, the world of warfare and the United States Military in particular have made significant strides in both equipment and tactical doctrine. Conflicts in Panama, the Persian Gulf, and Bosnia/Herzegovina were waged in a bygone analog era, influenced by lessons learned in the Vietnam War. But the terrorist attacks of September 11th changed all of that, embroiling the United States in a new type of war based on counter-insurgency in the digitally-augmented age.
Read OnA Navy SEAL’s Rolex Submariner on the Osama Bin Laden Raid
Over the past decade, just about every detail of Operation Neptune Spear, the Navy SEAL raid that brought Usama bin Laden to justice, has been...
Read OnOver the past decade, just about every detail of Operation Neptune Spear, the Navy SEAL raid that brought Usama bin Laden to justice, has been recounted. The service members involved, the elusive stealth Black Hawk helicopters, the quad NODs, have all become objects of intrigue and some have risen to iconic status. But one detail we all missed is the Rolex Submariner on the wrist of one of the operators. This detail surprised us here at W.O.E. Why was it worn on this raid? Was it for Escape and Evasion- a potential bartering tool? Was it chosen for its robustness as a mechanical timepiece, mitigating the risk of battery failure? The answer is actually simple–but far more profound. The SEAL wearing the Sub, Will Chesney, believed he was going to die that night in Pakistan. Chesney reasoned that he might as well take his most meaningful watch with him for his final ride. He bluntly told W.O.E. that, “the watch would burn up with me.” Like many of the warriors on the helicopters that morning, Chesney thought they would either be shot down by the Pakistani air defense or blown up once inside bin Laden’s compound. He was acutely aware of the latter, as it was in part his job to mitigate that specific risk. Cairo and Chesney training at the command in Virginia Beach (Photo Credit: Chesney) Operation Neptune Spear, Abbottabad, Pakistan: In the wee hours on May 2nd, 2011 Chesney rushed out of the helicopter just outside bin Laden’s compound in Abbottabad, Pakistan. Locating bin Laden took almost ten years; ever since 2001 the US had been trying to track down his whereabouts. Finally, the time had come to strike. Chesney had two things he cherished with him: the Submariner on his wrist, but more importantly, one of the most important members of the team: a 70 lb Belgian Malinois named Cairo. Chesney humbly described his job as “babysitting” the highly trained combat assault dog, but the task was crucial. The duo screened the perimeter of the compound for Improvised Explosive Devices (IEDs) before moving inside with the team to sweep the compound for explosives or hidden rooms. Like the men on the mission, Cairo was a seasoned operator with multiple combat deployments. In fact, the dog was shot twice during an operation in Afghanistan less than two years prior. Media would quickly report on the presence of Cairo, including sensational claims that the dog had titanium teeth, one of the many inconsistencies that would lead Chesney to write a book, No Ordinary Dog, in an effort to document the history and honor the legacy of his best friend. Red Squadron “Red Man” patch on Cairo’s vest, the same emblem engraved by the SEAL armorers on the Rolex Submariner's caseback. The Rolex Submariner: Like Cairo, the Submariner was no ordinary Rolex. It was a late 2000s no-date reference 14060, the last classic Submariner with the traditional aluminum bezel insert and drilled lugs. During a 2009 visit to the Command’s armorer, Chesney laser engraved the caseback with the “Red Man'' insignia of the famed Red Squadron, the same patch on Cairo’s harness. Chesney acquired the Rolex as a present to himself when he passed screening for Naval Special Warfare Development Group (DEVGRU) in 2008. Chesney was aware of the history between Rolex and the SEAL Teams, but was ultimately drawn to the brand for what Rolex represented; it was a reliable and “cool” piece. Chesney grew up in a trailer park in Southeast Texas where, like most places around the world, Rolex stood out as a particular luxury. The Rolex Submariner reference 14060, Chesney’s Trident and a metal tin containing the ashes of Cairo. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Rolex- The Symbol of Achievement: For decades, men have memorialized professional accomplishments with the purchase of a Rolex, be it a promotion, the closing of a big deal, or retirement. Chesney was no different. Only this “professional accomplishment” that Chesney achieved in 2008 was passing “selection” and being accepted into SEAL Team Six. Chesney was one of the youngest SEALs to make it through the 50-60% attrition rate. The “Training Team” screens for the “best of the best” SEALs and like the others trying out for the Command, Chesney had multiple prior combat deployments with SEAL Team 4. Chesney and Cairo on a helicopter in Afghanistan. (Photo Credit: Chesney) After Chesney completed the selection, he visited a Rolex Authorized Dealer in Virginia Beach and quickly settled on the no-date Submariner, purchasing it new and walking out with it that same day. In contrast to those we have previously profiled, the Submariner was not a daily wear and with the exception of the bin Laden raid, he did not wear it operationally. Chesney reserved the timepiece for special occasions, which included traveling to and from every deployment. He would wear it on the plane, but once he arrived in Afghanistan, he would replace the Submariner with a digital Suunto or Garmin, a far more practical tool for a 21st century assaulter. When it was time to go home, the Rolex would come out of his bag and back on his wrist. It was a ritual and a reminder of his accomplishments. Chesney with Cairo after being shot in Afghanistan during the search for Bowe Bergdahl in June 2009. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Captain Phillips Rescue, Indian Ocean: Reflecting on his career and the role the watch played, Chesney said he had two regrets. He wished he had purchased a date Submariner, as this would have been more practical, and he wished he had worn the watch on the rescue of Captain Phillips, another historic hostage rescue operation of the famed squadron. At the time, the clasp was loose and Chesney was concerned that if he had jumped out of the plane, the watch could have come off and fallen into the Indian Ocean. As a practical man, he reflected that he easily could and should have taped the watch to his wrist. Abbottabad Compound, Pakistan (Photo Credit: AP) Usama bin Laden: Prior to leaving for Afghanistan to take part in Operation Neptune Spear, Chesney made the conscious decision to wear the Rolex for this historic mission. He knew the polished steel watch wasn’t “tactical,” but he didn’t care. He was going to die anyway, he reasoned. Like the other members of the team, he extended his life insurance policy to prepare for this eventuality. During a recent conversation, Chesney reflected, “I thought it would be fitting to wear the watch on that operation since it was my gift to myself for making it there, and I figured we wouldn’t be making it back so I might as well die with it on.” Chesney briefly considered that the watch could be used as a bartering tool if he was stuck across the border in Pakistan, but was quick to say that he would never give the watch up, implying that he would die fighting. The role the watch played was more symbolic than practical. Rolex and Navy SEALs: The symbolism of the Rolex Submariner on one of the most historic Special Operations missions is profound. Watch culture is strong in the Naval Special Warfare community and Chesney’s Navy SEAL predecessors wore similar watches– both Rolex and Tudor Submariners as they operated in Vietnam 40 years prior. The founder of SEAL Team Six, Dick Marcinko, wore a no-date Tudor Submariner, not dissimilar to the Rolex worn by Chesney that night. Many SEALs commemorated their graduation from BUD/S or other operational accomplishments with a Rolex Sub. Rolex and SEAL Trident next to Cairo’s ashes. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Fortunately, Chesney’s ill-fated premonition did not become reality. Chesney and the team successfully brought the world's most wanted man to justice and returned safely to Bagram Airbase. Days later, Chesney would wear the Submariner to meet President Obama and Vice President Biden, both of whom were insistent they get a picture with Cairo, the only member of the Team whose name had been released at the time. Chesney and Cairo meeting President Obama and Vice President Biden after Operation Neptune Spear. (Photo Credit: Chesney) But for Chesney, the fight was far from over. Chesney would redeploy and ultimately earn a Purple Heart from a 2013 grenade attack in Afghanistan. Chesney details his personal struggle with traumatic brain injury and post-traumatic stress, and credits his relationship with Cairo as a key tool in supporting his recovery. After Cairo was retired, the Navy allowed Chesney to adopt him. Cairo passed away after a battle with cancer in 2015, and Chesney was by his side. Today, the Submariner is still reserved for special occasions. The watch is in need of service, but Chesney is concerned that the Red Man insignia will be removed from the caseback. Chesney would like to potentially add to the caseback, subtly honoring friends lost during the past two decades of conflict. The piece itself will remain an heirloom: the watch will be passed down to future generations as a way to continue to honor what his team –and Cairo– accomplished that night in Abbottabad. Rolex and SEAL Trident next to Cairo’s ashes. (Photo Credit: Chesney) Chesney’s book, No Ordinary Dog, is a powerful read that explores the genuine emotional bond between a warrior and his military working dog. As Chesney summarizes, “Cairo was my dog. And I was his dad. I don’t use that term euphemistically. The relationship between a handler and a canine SEAL is profound and intimate. It goes well beyond friendship and the usual ties that bind man to dog.” The book also explores both Chesney’s and Cairo’s difficulties transitioning from years of sustained combat. In addition to the book, Chesney supports several nonprofits for both veterans and Military Working Dogs, and he specifically highlighted Warrior Health Foundation, Spike’s K-9 Fund as a particularly impactful organization. -- If you enjoyed this article, please consider signing up for our weekly free newsletter for further updates HERE. READ NEXT: SEAL Team Six And A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle
Read OnThe Pragmatic Journey of a SEAL Through Watch Collecting
By Benjamin Lowry One thousand yards of open ocean undulated gently between US Navy SEAL David Hall and the dim lights of the Haitian shoreline....
Read OnBy Benjamin Lowry One thousand yards of open ocean undulated gently between US Navy SEAL David Hall and the dim lights of the Haitian shoreline. Wearing little more than woodland cammies, a Boonie hat, and a modified hunting life jacket, Hall glanced at the luminescent display of his Luminox watch and slipped quietly into the temperate waters of the Caribbean Sea. While warm, the water was acrid, stinking of ammonia and decomposition. As he began finning, open fires burned suspiciously on the proposed invasion beaches, their faint glimmer visible in the eyes of the two other SEALs finning away to Hall’s right and left. Hall and swim buddy, just before the Haiti operation. A fortuitous low-lying fog hung over the water at the insertion point, making their approach virtually undetectable. After a military coup in 1991 ousted Haiti’s first democratically-elected president, Jean-Bertrand Aristide, a Clinton-led United States initiated Operation Uphold Democracy in 1994, a military and diplomatic intervention intended to restore order and democracy to the embattled island nation. Hall’s US Navy SEAL Team EIGHT was tasked with conducting detailed reconnaissance of several Haitian beachheads to ensure the safe landing of an impending US Marine Corps invading force. Approximately 200 yards in, Hall’s swim buddy became entangled on a submerged fishing net that was being pulled in by an unseen dugout canoe. Hall closed in to assist his struggling swim buddy, miraculously freeing him while remaining unseen by the two Haitians in the boat. Once freed, Hall and two other SEALs swam to chest-deep water before being surrounded by several dugouts manned by Haitian civilians tasked with locating and reporting exactly this type of activity. In the kind of pitch blackness only offered by the sea on a moonless foggy night, one of the enemy dugouts drifted close enough to sense the presence of Hall’s three-man element. Thanks to four years of high school French, Hall understood well enough when one of the fishermen whispered, “Homme, qu’est-ce que tu fais dans l’eau?” (“Man, what are you doing in the water?”) in a lazy blend of French and Creole. Hearing the selector switches of his teammates' silenced MP5s click from “safe” to “fire” and feeling their backs move against his own, Hall remembered their orders. Anyone who discovered the SEALs or otherwise endangered the mission was to be killed as quietly as possible. After a painfully-long pause from both parties, the civilian fishermen thought better of the engagement and silently paddled into the night without another word, the rapidly beating hearts of the SEALs still in their throats. It turns out Luminox Original Navy SEAL watches were actually worn by SEALs. With around six years in the Teams, Hall had already deployed to the Mediterranean as well as the Persian Gulf for Operation Desert Shield, but the brief Haitian conflict, and this near miss on a moonless Haitian beach, presented his first up-close taste of war. Throughout his initial SEAL training and qualification as well as thousands of training hours at SEAL Teams TWO and EIGHT, Hall crafted a visceral understanding of the relationship between mission success and having the right tool for the job. Watches were then and are now yet another essential tool, as important to the mission in many cases as an operator’s weapons. But for Hall, who quickly asked me to call him Dave when we met via Zoom, watches represent a lot more than that. I met Dave (@davehall1911) through my Instagram account, @SubmersibleWrist, when he reached out to share a few photos of his time in the Teams. Afghanistan 2005, Casio Pathfinder on the wrist When W.O.E. asked me to write something for the Dispatch, I immediately thought of Dave. As one of the world’s least tactical people, I would never compare my resume to Dave’s, but my experiences as a search and rescue team leader in the US Coast Guard as well as my time as a commercial diver mean we share an intimate understanding of tool watches in the maritime environment. Setting aside his decorated 20-year career in Naval Special Warfare for a moment, Dave is a dyed-in-the-wool watch enthusiast just like the rest of us. The first “real” watch Dave remembers acquiring was a Citizen Aqualand C023 he purchased with carefully-pinched pennies from a summer lifeguarding job in northern Illinois. Looking back, the humble depth-gauge-enabled Citizen stands as the first installment in a tale of service, adventure, and armed conflict, punctuated by some of history's most iconic watches. BUD/S And An Improbable Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, Ref 9401 Hall’s Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, Ref 9401, SEAL Trident, USN Mk II Kabar At BUD/S or Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL training in 1987, Dave quickly made friends with a San Diego local and classmate. Dave’s friend, who would eventually serve as his dive buddy in what was then Third Phase, showed Dave around the area and also introduced him to his uncle, a dealer of military surplus. As graduation from one of the military’s most elite training programs loomed, Dave’s buddy’s uncle mentioned his recent purchase of 100 of the last of the West Coast Teams' issued Tudor Submariners in an unmarked cardboard box from a US Navy Defense Reutilization Marketing Office (DRMO) surplus auction. Thirty-three years later, Dave clearly remembers paying his friend’s uncle $300, no small sum for a junior enlisted sailor in 1988, for two of the well-worn Tudor Submariners, keeping one and gifting the other to a family member. BUD/S Graduation 1988, Tudor Submariner on the wrist. Dave remembered seeing similar watches often worn with a brass W.C.C. survival compass on simple nylon straps on the wrists of legendary SEALs around BUD/S. One such operator who left an impression was RJ Thomas, a Vietnam SEAL who famously repelled two hundred VC fighters from his downed helicopter with an M1911 pistol, racking up 37 confirmed kills between 3 and a staggering 150 yards and injuring countless others. Hall's Tudor Submariner along with a few other relics from the Vietnam Era. For a young Dave Hall, his “Snowflake” Submariner could not have been any cooler and synonymous with the legendary operators the fledgling frogman hoped to emulate. Dave wore the Tudor for his graduation from BUD/S and throughout his career for lighter duty and the types of ceremonies and events that call for a dress uniform. All these years later, Dave still has the watch and wears it alongside a brass W.C.C. compass on a simple nylon strap, just as God and the SEAL Teams intended. Seiko Automatic Dive Watches, Stacks Of Casio G-Shocks, Pathfinders, & A Luminox Hall graduating SEAL Sniper School with a handshake from legendary Marine Scout Sniper, Carlos Hathcock. Seiko on the wrist. With the Rolex and Tudor Submariners of old all but phased out and either retained by crafty SEALs like Dave or sold at DRMO auctions, the SEAL Teams of the 80s and 90s issued a mix of Seiko automatic dive watches including the 6309 and later the 7002 as well as several generations of the venerable Casio G-Shock and Pathfinder. Dave remembers all of these utilitarian watches fondly, though he makes note of the sheer volume of G-Shock watches he went through in his career, often wearing one on his attack board and another on the wrist during combat dives. When the battery died or something failed, he simply tossed it and grabbed another from his unit’s supply officer. Hall dive training in 1991 in Scotland. Citizen Aqualand on the wrist. Along with the Citizen Aqualand of his youth, which he often wore operationally, Dave favored the utilitarian automatic Seiko divers of the era. Dave reached for his Seikos in situations that did not require the perfect stopwatch timing and self-illuminating capabilities offered by digital watches, opting for the legendary Japanese brand on the range, when parachuting, or for other land-based training evolutions. Chesapeake, VA, Range training, 1995. Seiko on the wrist. For the nerds in the room, which I assume is all of you, Dave mentioned that the strap of the 90s East Coast SEAL Teams was a simple velcro model with a depth-compensating spring-loaded buckle that once accompanied a Tekna diving wrist compass. Despite the legendary status of Seiko and G-Shock within the Teams, when Dave made the aforementioned big swim into Haiti in ‘94, he was wearing the then-brand-new Luminox Original Navy SEAL he had privately purchased. And while enthusiasts may snicker at the often-corny Luminox Navy SEAL marketing, Dave remembers enjoying the brightness of the tritium illumination on that particular mission while admitting the watch was more fragile compared to the Seiko, Citizen & Casio models upon which he normally relied. The OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph 2598.80 Hall's OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph. In 1996, Dave purchased his first luxury watch, an OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph reference 2598.80, in celebration of the birth of his first child. When asked, Dave indicates it was this very watch that he wore the most operationally, with hundreds of jumps, combat dives, and real-world combat missions and gun fights to its name. The Seamaster Chronograph of the era paired the iconic design language established by the Pierce Brosnan Bond Seamaster with its distinctive wave-engraved dial and added chronograph functionality by way of the robust but thick Valjoux 7750. Intriguingly, the watch made the first of two appearances by Dave’s watches in popular media, starring in the final scene of an episode of Navy SEALs: In Harms Way, a documentary series produced by Gordon Forbes for the Discovery Channel. And while Dave lists the OMEGA, now most often worn by his wife Tracey, as the number one operator watch of his career overall, the evolution of combat following the 9/11 terrorist attacks would call for new tactics and equipment, including a GPS-enabled Suunto Dave wore on a day of intense combat that would change his life. Freefall training in Spain, 1997. Omega Seamaster Chronograph on the wrist. An Early Suunto GPS Watch & A Very Long Day In Baghdad In 2004, with the Global War On Terror (GWOT) in full effect, Dave was stationed at SEAL Delivery Vehicle Team TWO (SDVT-2). Envisioned in the Second World War, the modern SDV is a miniature wet submersible capable of deploying from ships or submarines and carrying small teams of US Navy SEALs far greater distances than even a Navy SEAL can swim. For a particular SDV mission upon which Dave opts not to elaborate, he and a few other SEALs were issued an early watersports-themed Suunto watch offering rudimentary but useful GPS functionality at the cost of needing regular recharging. Given the growing intensity of combat operations in Iraq’s major cities, experienced SEALs from SDVT-2 and elsewhere were often sent to augment other SEAL Teams deployed in the Middle East. Transitioning from 10 to 15-hour dives in shark-infested water to the heat, chaos, and urban combat of Baghdad’s streets is no small task but is the kind of thing a senior operator like Dave was accustomed to after 15 years in the Teams. On one particular mission, Dave and three other SEAL snipers were attached to a regular US Army unit and tasked with providing overwatch for an intersection known as a launch point for insurgent mortar teams. The mission seemed simple enough. When the insurgent mortar team showed up, the SEAL snipers would do what they do best from the relative safety of their urban hide. Hall in Iraq before his injury. Note the Suunto GPS watch on the wrist. A few hours after being locked into the eighth floor of an urban high-rise by a sketchy local source, the team observed four insurgent pickups in the alleyway below loaded with RPGs and fifteen armed men clad in black. Soon after, a massive vehicle-borne improvised explosive device or VBIED exploded down the street, ripping the front of an Iraqi police station to shreds and igniting an intense, multi-stage ambush. With rocket-propelled grenades and small arms fire erupting in every direction in the street below, Dave and his team made for the roof to bring the fight to the enemy and give the dozens of wounded Iraqi police officers at least a fighting chance of survival. A former instructor at Naval Special Warfare’s sniper school, Dave remembers engaging the enemy fighters from the rooftop along with the other SEALs and soldiers in their small element, doing enough damage for the insurgent force to switch its focus from the badly-damaged police station to killing Dave and his team. Impressively, despite their small numbers, the accuracy of the SEAL snipers and soldiers on Dave’s team kept an enormous insurgent force at bay for a tense two and a half hours. Eventually, an enterprising enemy fighter emerged from an adjacent rooftop and threw a perfectly-aimed Russian hand grenade into the midst of the SEALs and soldiers on the rooftop. Baghdad, Iraq. View from the Baghdad rooftop where Hall was injured. In a reflexive attempt to get clear of the explosion, Dave jumped in the general direction of a lower tier of the roof, barely missing a ladder on the way down. Landing awkwardly, Dave felt his right knee crumple under his body weight and a combat load of over 65 lbs of gear. Despite also hitting his head in the fall, the image of looking down and seeing the bottom of his dusty Merrell hiking boot looking up at him from his almost completely amputated lower leg is as clear for Dave today as it was in 2004. With several other members of the team also injured, including a soldier who had his foot completely severed, the team retreated under fire to the eighth floor. Dave vividly remembers crawling on his stomach over the roof using the wounded soldier’s blood like a slip and slide. Eventually making his way to a corner of the 8th floor, Dave put his back to the wall and covered the stairs, well and truly pissed and still in the fight. With the enemy well aware of the team’s position, RPG explosions rocked the seventh and eighth floor of the concrete building from all sides, piling concussive brain injuries one after another for Dave and his team in the enclosed space as the building filled with thick black smoke from burning enemy trucks. Dave’s Suunto was also still in the fight, something he remembers well because he checked the time often in the ensuing two-and-a-half hours before rescue ultimately came in the form of armored vehicles. Incredibly, after several surgeries and extensive physical therapy, Dave returned not only to the Teams but to war less than a year later to deploy to Afghanistan, ultimately retiring from a storied career in 2007. Hall as a junior Team Guy, wearing a Citizen Aqualand. Dave’s history, which I have only begun to touch on in this abbreviated format, is truly incredible, spanning the breadth of the transition between the US Navy SEALs of the 70s, 80s, and 90s that were still heavily influenced by the Vietnam War and the development of the modern operator we associate with the SEALs of today. But what surprised me most about Dave was the total lack of ego and openness with which he approached the idea of talking to someone like me about his life, war, and watches. Today, Dave remains deeply connected to the SEAL Teams and the special operations community at large, spending much of his time volunteering as the president of the Silent Warrior Foundation, a not-for-profit that provides funding for mental health services, emergency financial help, scholarships, and hyperbaric oxygen treatment for injuries that are often related to TBIs in particular. Ian Brown (@tacshot1) wearing Dave's Tudor on the set of SEAL Team on Paramount Plus Traumatic brain injuries, which are often related to mental health issues and veteran suicides, are close to Dave’s heart. Thanks to one of his friends who works on the show, Dave’s focus on TBIs ultimately led to yet another appearance in film for one of Dave’s watches in a recent episode of SEAL Team in an episode dealing with TBI-related stigma in the SEAL community. In the episode, an old-timer frogman prominently wears Dave’s Tudor Submariner, an incredibly accurate move by the prop department and further evidence that beyond his laurels as an elite special operator, Dave is also a watch guy (almost) just like you and me. Just don’t ask him how much he wants for his Tudor Sub. If you’d like to support Dave’s efforts with the Silent Warrior Foundation, please check out their website. About The Author: Benjamin Lowry is a US Coast Guard veteran and commercial diver turned watch writer. These days, Ben splits his time between writing and video production in the watch industry and managing @SubmersibleWrist, a watch spotting account dedicated to military and commercial divers. Read Next: Espionage & Family: A Tale Of Two Watches
Read OnBlackwater Breitling - The Story
Blackwater Breitling: Regardless of one's personal views on Blackwater and their impact on global events, one cannot properly recount the history of modern Intelligence and Special...
Read OnBlackwater Breitling: Regardless of one's personal views on Blackwater and their impact on global events, one cannot properly recount the history of modern Intelligence and Special Operations without discussing Blackwater. In the niche genre of military timepieces and Watches of Espionage this is an important story. Breitling developed this tool watch in the early 1990’s initially focused on the military and the aviation sectors. It was a practical wrist instrument designed for a singular purpose, to locate and rescue those in need.
Read OnSEAL Team Six and a U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle
SEAL Team Six and a U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle For this edition of the W.O.E. Dispatch, we spoke with Kyle Defoor, a former Navy SEAL...
Read OnSEAL Team Six and a U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle For this edition of the W.O.E. Dispatch, we spoke with Kyle Defoor, a former Navy SEAL Special Mission Unit combat veteran, about his U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko 6309-7049. Kyle Defoor’s Seiko on a Prometheus Design Werx Ti-Ring Strap along with his SEAL Trident, Red Squadron and American Flag patches he wore in Afghanistan. Kyle Defoor has devoted the past 30 years to mastering his craft as a Navy SEAL sniper and decorated combat veteran. He understands the value of practical tools. Clothing, gear, guns and motorcycles are carefully assessed for specific utility and tossed out if they don’t meet the ever-increasing standards. Naturally, Defoor has several watches in his toolkit; but one stands out–a late 1970s U.S. Navy-issued Seiko 6309-7049. In the world of “Watches of Espionage”, this watch has it all: documented provenance connected to two well-known SEALs, operational use on multiple continents, and a story about passing down a watch from father to son. Originally the Seiko was issued to revered SEAL Rudy Boesch in the late 1970s, and then Defoor acquired it in 1996 when his father purchased the watch at an auction supporting the UDT-SEAL Association and gave it to him. He wore the watch in training and operational deployments, including the early years of the war in Afghanistan. The watch wears the scars collected over 40 years of hard use. And to this day, Defoor still wears it as he trains the next generation in firearms and tactics as founder of Defoor Proformance Shooting. Defoor’s Seiko 6309-7049 Seiko watches have a long history with the Special Operations community, specifically their dive watches, which were favored by members of Naval Special Warfare units. While Tudor Submariners were common during the Vietnam War and issued by some Teams into the 1980s, Seiko Divers were standard issue for the SEALs from the 1970s until the mid-1990s, when they were replaced by digital G-Shocks. Nicknamed the “Turtle” due to the recognizable shape of the case, the watch is purely designed with utility in mind. For example, the recessed screw down crown at 4 o’clock works with bulky dive suits and– as Defoor notes– while doing pushups. It’s rated for 150 meters, and that’s good enough for a SEAL, and so is the Caliber 6300 inside. The Turtle was a logical choice for Frogmen in the late 1970s. Defoor's Seiko 6309-7049 Defoor’s reference has what’s known as a “Suwa dial,” and it’s prized by collectors. Suwa dial Turtles were produced from 1976 until circa 1981, and features an “S” above the 6 o’clock marker and the “Japan 6309-704L T” on the bottom of the dial. At 45mm wide and 13mm thick, it is a large watch but wears comfortably due to the short lugs. The day and date complication along with the bi-directional 60-click bezel makes this a practical tool watch fit for rugged use. An automatic movement negates the risk of battery failure, a constant concern for SpecOps. Kyle Defoor Defoor, a sniper and decorated combat veteran, spent 10 years in the Navy SEALs including deployments with SEAL Team 6, 2 and 8. Deciphering the details of Defoor’s career can be difficult because he rarely goes into detail publicly on his service and instead uses vague descriptions of his work like “a trip to Afghanistan” to describe his involvement in some of the most pivotal operations in the early years of that conflict, or “some time in Bosnia” for hunting Balkan war criminals in the 1990s. A self-described “redneck from Alabama,” Defoor has the confidence to be expected of someone with his background, but the rare quality of genuine humility. Defoor enlisted in the Navy when he was 18 years old and after completing BUD/S and earning his Trident, he was assigned to SEAL Team 8. Defoor’s first exposure to real world operations occurred when he deployed to Bosnia to hunt Persons Indicted for War Crimes (PIFWIC) for their actions during the Yugoslav Wars. In July 1996, Defoor attended the Navy SEAL reunion in Little Creek, Virginia, which included a fundraiser for the UDT-SEAL Association. One of the items auctioned to support the association was former Master Chief Petty Officer’s Rudy Boesch’s issued Seiko Diver, ref. 6309-7049. Kyle’s father, fresh off a successful gambling trip in Tunica, Mississippi, was visiting Defoor and also attended the reunion. Flush with cash from the blackjack table, he was eager to purchase an early birthday gift for his son-turned-Frogman and outbid other former SEALs and UDT for the Seiko. Defoor estimates his father paid $500 for the watch, which was a sizable amount from Defoor’s perspective at the time. This was a meaningful gift for a host of reasons, but especially because of the value the Special Operations community places on honoring those who came before us. Tradition and heritage matter. Defoor noted that many of his BUD/S classmates purchased Rolex Submariners to commemorate their graduation, but his humble background meant that he wasn’t able to purchase such an expensive watch. Receiving the Seiko was a memorable moment for Defoor – not only was it a gift from his father, but it came with important provenance. In the mid-1990s, Boesch was a legendary figure in the Naval Special Warfare community, and years later became well-known to the general public due to his participation in the reality show Survivor. Defoor and Boesch in 2013. For years, Defoor asked Boesch for a picture with the watch, joking that a documented picture would allow him to sell it for auction down the road. In what became a running joke, for years Boesch would rebuff Defoor’s attempts and offer a beer instead. In 2013, Boesch finally relented and took the picture with Defoor at a Navy SEAL reunion. Rudy Boesch enlisted in the Navy at 17 years old and had a 45 year career in Naval Special Warfare, making him the longest serving SEAL at the time. He was originally an Underwater Demolition Team (UDT) Frogman prior to joining the newly-formed Navy SEALs in 1962. Boesch earned a Bronze Star for his actions during two combat deployments in Vietnam with SEAL Team 2. After Vietnam, Boesch returned to Little Creek, VA with SEAL Team 2 and it was there that he was issued this Seiko in 1979. Boesch told Defoor that he wore the Seiko until his retirement, but was not a huge fan of the watch as he found it too clunky. After his retirement in 1990, the tool was put unceremoniously in a drawer until the UDT/SEAL Association asked him to donate an item for the 1996 auction. Rudy Boesch in Vietnam as a member of SEAL Team 2 in 1968 After receiving the Seiko, Defoor serviced it at a local Virginia Beach jeweler and wore the watch during Sniper School, then took it on additional deployments to the Balkans where he conducted recce operations in support of the hunt for PIFWCs. At the time, the Navy had transitioned from automatic Seikos to issuing digital G-Shocks, but Defoor stuck with the Seiko. In 2000, he screened for Navy Special Warfare Development Group (SEAL Team Six), which put him in a unique position as a member of the now-famed Red Squadron. That was in September of 2001. When Defoor deployed to Afghanistan shortly after September 11th as an assaulter and recce sniper, the Seiko came with him. Defoor earned the Bronze Star with Valor for actions in Operation Anaconda, a March 2002 battle in the Shahi-Kot Valley targeting al-Qaeda and Taliban forces. Defoor conceded that while the watch was a constant companion during training cycles and deployments, there were times that he used a G-Shock when he knew exact timing was mission essential. He knew the Seiko’s bidirectional bezel was a liability when diving as a knock and resulting accidental advancement could cause a SEAL to overestimate the time he had left underwater. Ironically, in the early 2000s, SEALS found themselves spending more time in the mountains and deserts of Afghanistan than underwater. Defoor in Afghanistan in early 2002 While Defoor’s career is notable by any standard, his legacy will likely be in the training realm. After leaving the military, he founded “Defoor Proformance Shooting,” and has devoted his life to preparing the next generation of warriors and developing tools for those on the front lines. Defoor is a leader in the firearms and tactics space and trains thousands of students each year from the U.S. military, law enforcement and government agencies, and is also involved with product development as a consultant for Tenicor, Bravo Company USA, Staccato Firearms and Vortex Optics. In addition to operational deployments, the watch has been a constant presence in Defoor’s life and a conscious choice for more personal, but no less important, events. It was on his wrist as he rode his motorcycle across the country, walked his daughter down the aisle to hand her off to another SEAL and in the delivery room for the birth of his son. Preparing to one day hand the watch down to his son, Defoor recently purchased a Sangin Neptune. Kyle, thank you for sharing your story with W.O.E and for everything you have done and continue to do for our community. Read Next: The Pragmatic Journey Of A SEAL Through Watch Collecting
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